I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?
Hi trying to install new relief valve and the pipe that comes out of boiler got some rust is that gonna be ok to add an extension pipe and then install the relief valve to that fort the future so if i need to change the valve i just removing the valve that is installed to the extension pipe just want to make sure it is not affecting pressure or anything thx
I have an older Honeywell Zone Valve (1 of 4) and it keeps pouring out heat in the zone with the thermostat for that zone turned all the way down - we tried to switch the lever manually to close and disable the valve - but to no avail - is it the thermostat? Any help would be appreciated. We would like to disable that zone until our HVAC guy can come so we are not burning so much oil - we dont need heat in this zone right now!
So a zone valve can open but if the end switch is bad the boiler will never fire? Explains why my domestic loops isn't getting hot on superstor but the heat works just fine
I had the worst day at work today. Every cleaning turned into a service call. Oh and an expansion tank blew a small hole on the side when I tested high limit.
@@Rainmaker88 yah, it was set to 175 and the expansion tank was defective because it blew a really small hole on the side of it. It felt like it was raining because it was ricocheting off the boiler itself into the air. So not the best day.
@@PipeDoctor Yah, went fairly smooth. Did 3 boilers and 2 mini splits so I'm not bitching. Do you normally check sh when you're doing a cleaning on a mini split? The manufacturer says not to but my boss tells me to. I probably do more harm than goo checking it. I have a seal right fitting for my gauges so I don't louse a lot of freon.
I don't usually comment on fix it co does but yours is by far the most straight forward and simple. Thank you.
Awsome
Info , as I’m learning zone valves and taco valves , inducer motors.
Thank you for the lesson
Kelvin made it to work, awesome
I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?
I believe the old valves had an orange gasket between the Motor and the body. Thats the tell tale sign if you're gonna get wet.
Hi trying to install new relief valve and the pipe that comes out of boiler got some rust is that gonna be ok to add an extension pipe and then install the relief valve to that fort the future so if i need to change the valve i just removing the valve that is installed to the extension pipe just want to make sure it is not affecting pressure or anything thx
I have an older Honeywell Zone Valve (1 of 4) and it keeps pouring out heat in the zone with the thermostat for that zone turned all the way down - we tried to switch the lever manually to close and disable the valve - but to no avail - is it the thermostat? Any help would be appreciated. We would like to disable that zone until our HVAC guy can come so we are not burning so much oil - we dont need heat in this zone right now!
When I move a zone valve to manual does thst just open the zone valve or does it also run the hest?
So a zone valve can open but if the end switch is bad the boiler will never fire? Explains why my domestic loops isn't getting hot on superstor but the heat works just fine
I had the worst day at work today. Every cleaning turned into a service call. Oh and an expansion tank blew a small hole on the side when I tested high limit.
High limit? Aquastat?
@@Rainmaker88 yah, it was set to 175 and the expansion tank was defective because it blew a really small hole on the side of it. It felt like it was raining because it was ricocheting off the boiler itself into the air. So not the best day.
@@PipeDoctor I had 5 cleanings. 4 of them when I got there the person said something was wrong and the 5th the expansion blew. 😭
@@PipeDoctor Yah, went fairly smooth. Did 3 boilers and 2 mini splits so I'm not bitching. Do you normally check sh when you're doing a cleaning on a mini split? The manufacturer says not to but my boss tells me to. I probably do more harm than goo checking it. I have a seal right fitting for my gauges so I don't louse a lot of freon.
Hwo do you fix bad end switch, unscrew the motor?