DIY Repair Stuck Broken Heating Zone Valve Honeywell NO NEW PARTS V8043G1018 Teardown How it Works!
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2024
- [PLEASE READ DESC. esp FAQ section] How to fix a Honeywell V8043G1018 Hot Water Hydronic Heating Zone Valve with Synchron motor at home WITHOUT BUYING ANY PARTS, WITHOUT WAITING. (or buying anything). This should work for related valves as well.
Your time is valuable. Thank you for watching. You can click the chapters to skip the parts you don't need, or click the dots and select Open Transcript to read the text. There is a summary in the first 5 seconds.
The valve got stuck OPEN (On), causing the zone to run continuously even when the thermostat was turned off. This was caused by the grease in the Synchron motor and gearbox drying out and becoming sticky.
In this video the motor is taken apart carefully to remove old grease and relubricate it. This may also help if the valve is stuck CLOSED (off), but this can also be caused by a burnt motor or stuck valve, which you will unfortunately need to buy parts to fix. You can do this to troubleshoot.
Most videos about this topic I found discuss how to REPLACE the valve/actuator/Synchron motor. However, it takes TIME and money to get replacement parts. On Amazon, the valve and motor are roughly 80-160 dollars CAD. You may want to replace it anyway if that gives you peace of mind. However, it is likely you will be able to save yourself some time, cold, and money by just fixing it.
Please note that I am NOT a scientist, engineer, or HVAC professional. Real professionals will probably NOT encourage you to "repair", esp not DIY, on a component level like this, (though you don't always have a choice). Please consult a professional before attempting anything yourself, and stay safe and learn what you need to learn before attempting a project. I am not responsible for what you do with this info. YOU are. This video is not encouragement to do dangerous things yourself.
0:00 Introduction and Theory
2:39 Inside Motor
3:38 Take Apart
5:08 Cleaning Old Grease
9:35 Oil the Motor
12:50 Oil the Gears
14:37 Take Apart Mechanism
17:00 Put Together Step by Step
22:02 Before After
24:20 Ending
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS:
1) VALVE DOES NOT ACTIVATE MICROSWITCH IN MANUAL MODE: This appears to be working as designed. The valve requires the motor to push the internal mechanism further than the manual opening limit in order to contact the switch and turn on the heating. This is likely as a safety measure to prevent someone from accidentally having the heat on uncontrollably. Since the valves function correctly from the thermostat, they are likely working properly.
2) HOW CAN I TEST THE VALVE WITHOUT INSTALLING IT: You will need a 24 volt AC source. AC is very important as these will not run on DC. Connect the AC source to the motor leads (either way around is fine) and observe the valve opening all the way. Measure the terminals of the switch with a multimeter, and there should be continuity. Disconnect power and observe the valve closes all the way. Repeat continuity measurement of switch. It should be open.
3) MY QUESTION ISN'T LISTED: Please ask in the comments and I will try to answer! 
Хобби
This is the best tear down of a zone valve I've seen anywhere. Others only tell you to replace this part or that part but in reality you can just service it if it's not completely busted. Nice one! 👍
Awesome video, thank you for sharing, at 65 l still love to learn ! After 20 years in LU 400 IBEW I got my NJ state electrical contractors license and haven’t miss a day of work since. I also love plumbing and carpentry work.
Great video!!! I have three Truezone actuators. The make is different, probably from Honeywell. Those have a very powerful spring, unlike the one shown in your video. All three have been sticking, making the dampers stay open or closed. I had cleaned the interior of the actuators, after complete disassembly of the actuator. A laborious and tricky task really. Found plenty of solidified grease between several moving parts and removed with automotive degreaser from Walmart, but the actuators still stick.
I dreaded opening the motor. Larry, TBO, you have given a direction that I am sure will work. The motor gets quite warm, and after eleven years or so of working, the grease must have solidified inside as you have shown in the video. Although the motor turns (but probably not the the extent it should if cleaned) when it is out of the actuator and has no torque restrictions from the spring. I will try out your fantastic procedure and hopefully resolve the problem. 🙏
Great to hear that you found the video helpful. Hopefully this procedure works on your actuators! Good luck!
This instruction was extremely helpful in fixing my valve motor gears. They were gummed up just like this one and it was easier to clean them up than I originally thought!
Thanks for the great tips and clear video. Saves another syncron going to the scrap yard.
This is one of the most informative video I saw on RUclips. Thanks for the video!!
Thank you for a great walkthrough of this component
Thank you! Amazing diy fix tutorial for these motors and the gears.
This video is outstanding - thank you so much for posting this! You got a new sub : )
A great video. Thanks for all of the helpful information. I'm going to check my zone valves with the manual lever to be sure that they are working freely.
Very helpful. Replaced an old synchronous motor with a new one however it still wouldn't open the port. Checked out this video and disassembled the head unit to get to the gear and lever. Was covered in old grease and dirt, gave it a good clean and it's all working perfectly now. Good idea to also give the valve stem a spray with WD-40 whilst the unit is off the wall and gently rotate.
Thank you so much for sharing. The instruction is very clear
Thank you. 👍 I have two of those Honeywell zone valves on my hydronic heating system. I have replaced just the head assembly in the past, I believe the valve would get stuck in the on position. I was afraid to try taking it apart, but next time one of the valves malfunctions I'll try cleaning and lubricating it.
Very useful instructions. In my case I found that the valve was intermittent and that I sometimes needed to push the lever a little to make it work. When I got inside I spotted that the single screw holding the motor was slack and tightening that fixed the problem.
Great instructions very clear, the best👍👍
Fantastic detailed video. Thanks a bunch!!
This is great, I have two valves that are newer they stopped working and get hot when called on, so I'm gonna try it. I think aerosol brake cleaner might blast all that gunk out. Excellent video.🏆
Great timing for me. Just used this to fix up a valve we had that would not close.
Thank you. Saved time and money.
Thanks for the help!
Great video. Thanks Larry very much indeed! Most helpful.
Enough detail to understand how these Honeywell motorised valves work and what to do to get them functioning how they should.
2 years ago I previously replaced the motor in one of my 2 valve Honeywell units, with a Drayton motor, having discovered it had burnt out after 18 years which wasn't bad.
Then yesterday I realised the towel radiators (which come on with heating and just hot water) had not come on at the usual time.
My immediate suspicion was the motor had died again so I took it off to check the motor still worked and it seemed OK i.e. it was turning OK.
I manually flipped the lever but it was slipping so I presumed I'd need to replace the head.
I found one video and there was enough detail to see how the actual valves in the pipework moved to test, but I couldn't quite understand how the head mechanism worked from that one.
So I left it overnight and set about finding a good video to help me understand what it should be doing before I wasted any money today!
Found this video which was exactly what I needed so I knew how it all worked.
However, the big bonus was the knowledge on how the mechanism can jam up with crud and how it ideally needed lubrication.
The motor and gearbox seemed to turn OK already so I was a bit puzzled.
Anyway, I cleaned using Isopropyl alcohol as per the video and wiped off the (minimal to be fair) black crud.
But instead of oil, I managed to work in some Castrol LM High Melting Point grease I had into all the moving parts which made contact with something else.
Then testing things like the gearbox it moved so much more freely than before so it was obviously worse than I thought.
So I put it all back together and it's sorted the problem i.e. it doesn't jump any more (which I presume was previously caused by just enough resistance in the mechanism).
Over here in the UK, the new head would be £100 and the labour probably £100 > £200 so at worst, a £300 bill (I guess around $360?).
Thanks again!
Brill video - many thanks - my valve wouldn't return under the spring load - this means the heating (or HW depending on what the valve controls) stayed on all the time and I was trying to work out why the house was so dam hot ?!
Traced it the problem above & cleaning the gearbox out & lubricating it (with 3 in 1) per video fixed the issue.
A tip that could help - when removing the base (see approx 4 mins into video) do as suggested & flatten the tabs as best you can but if you have to go at it go at it strongly (like I had to) make sure to go in at the wide end - i.e. at the end opposite to the external small brass gear - that way if you "punch thru" the thin case you won't damage the gearbox as it doesn't have any parts in that area - the vid shows this clearly at 6.30 where Larry has also deformed the case a little at the wide end - mine ended up being A LOT more deformed - but no damage done :)
when I got it apart neither the gearbox or the motor seemed that sticky BUT cleaning and lubing meant it would return under the load from the springs whereas before it wouldn't.
I immersed the gearbox in cellulose thinners and rotated the gears to clean - this worked fine - I could see the small bits of debris afterwards (any grease would have dissolved) - not that much but obvs enough to cause the problem.
Finally - a few things to note -
1. The microswitch ONLY gets actuated if you drive the valve open using electrical power - if you open it manually it does NOT move as far as when electrically powered and the microswitch does not get operated.
2. When you assemble the powerhead and test it electrically or manually but not connected to the hydraulic part of the valve) - it may work ok - but often the large ring gear (which is a segment of a circle) can slip and it looks like there's a problem UNTIL you install the powerhead back onto the hydraulic valve part - when you do this the mechanism parts are held more in alignment and the mechanism will likely now work fine - so don't scrap it after seeing slipping during testing when it's disconnected from the valving part !
Love how we can all help each other not to chuck away stuff that's perfectly serviceable with thought and sharing :)
Good write-up. Is the micro switch normally closed, and then opens when it is depressed? I am trying to understand the "logic" in the switch being there.
Hey jimy - only just saw your comment - the microswitch has a common input (orange wire) & both normally open (grey wire ) and normally closed (white wire ) outputs - my system uses the orange & grey and the white wire isn't connected. I think that's the normal set up - i.e. the power is supplied to the boiler via the MS switching the live line on when the valve is opened - but my system is pretty long in the tooth compared to all the modern stuff. @@jimygerilius2377
Great job on both the work and video ! Very useful to me and for other people like me. Thanks! Subscribed and look forward seeing more.
Good video helped me fix my valve.
Wow, wish I'd found this before. This exact same procedure also goes for ESBE valves, which look to be exact clones of the Honeywell.
However, I discovered and solved my error by trial and error, and I managed to fix my problem in a slightly different way. And my problem was that the valve wouldn't open at all, hardly ever. What i found was that the flywheel was actually too close to some of the prongs. So I forced them out a bit and voilà! It works perfectly now, even though I wish I had also known about the potential grease drying out problem so I could have cleaned it.
I know now for next time it acts up!
Many thanks for this video!
Thanks guy... useful info for use DIY'ers. just fixed my MA1 Dayton. It actually proved to be the spindle to the valve seized up; freed that up with some WD40 worked it with some pliers till free and then some oil and all hunky dory now. My plumber does ot fix stuff, just replaces with new. So saved £280... result! :)
Thank you so much Larry!
Although I'm a noob, your video guided me through the steps, and now it works again!
10/ 10 would recommend =)
Happy holidays!!
Thanks that is an excellent video. I am going to be trying that this afternoon.
Great video! Maybe someone mentioned that in some units there's a plastic reduction gear. In some cases that gear can get stripped. Had to replace the whole motor+gearbox. But that was cheaper than the whole mechanism.
Thanks for this video.
I'm servicing a V8043D1080 valve, which is quite similar.
One thing I would suggest is mounting the lower assembly with the springs on the valve before mounting the motor. This way you can check that the shaft for the valve seats correct into the lower assembly.
In my case, the valve was in a tight location and access to the mounting screw at the rear was difficult. Because of this I don't think the mounting screw was tightened properly by the last guy that worked on it and as a consequence the valve shaft appears not to have been seated correctly causing the gear on the lower assembly not to mesh with the pinion gear on the motor assembly.
Hey buddy, it was good to learn that I appreciate it. Thanks again make more videos.
Very nice! Thank you
Nice clear concise video! I am a new subscriber! Thank for taking the time to make this video. I know just how hard it can be to make a good video, because I have made some terrible RUclips videos. I like to make videos, mostly for myself, just in case my fixing project actually works for several years and I might need to do it again someday in the future. I have posted a few on RUclips, but mostly they are stored in my video library.
My system, which has 6 zone valve assemblies, was put into service in 1999. 2004 I replaced the first motor. Bought 2 spare zone valve assembly in 2004, since I figured another motor would eventually go. Lucky me, I still have 5 of the original motors working and I have that spare brand new motor I bought way back in 2004. Anyways, I think this looks like a nice little summer project I will attempt this coming summer in between weed whacking. The zone that seems to call for heat the most is our two back to back bathrooms. That was where the first replacement motor went. I wished I would have kept that motor to fool around with, but it is gone. I have noticed lately the motor for the bathroom zone seems to move very slowly when I check to see which zone is calling for heat. A couple times I think the lever on the bottom of that bathroom zone is not shut all the way. It seems the springs are not closing it all the way, so I really think it needs some maintenance. That is my long story, but I really think you did a great job explaining how to go about this. Great DIY video!
Excellent, I have some gears stripped as well but this is great!!
I will be tring this. thanks. I'ts not working now, so nothing lost.
This is the good stuff! Made in Canada ! Every parts has weight to it. Mine are made in Hungary ... Flimsy quality . The gear worn out... Must replace the entire thing. Sux
going to try this with my HRV synchro motor. thank you for this! If it doesnt work, I guess I will spend the 200 dollars for the whole assembly.
Very well explain but I won't use motor oil instead I would use silicone spray.
Thank you
Larry- THIS video caused me to look into and identify a long-standing, annoying problem. Two of three zones operated properly. Replaced what I thought was a bad thermostat on third, still not working. Had good voltage on thermostat end. Watched your vid and 5 mins later had it working! Apparently, the end switch was not being contacted by the lever movement as the thermostat called for heat! I believe it was gummed up. Pushed lever in to contact the switch and it fired up the furnace. Lubed it up a bit and seems fine now, but will go through it to clean and lube everything as you showed. I would not have had the thought to check the end switch had I not watched your (excellent) video. Thank you!!
Glad to hear this video was helpful to you!
@@liminalsunset Made my night, actually. Thanks again.
Brilliant!!!!
Awesome. This has removed the mystique around this value. Cheers!
Excellent
Nice video Larry, will try to clean it up. I just thinking what is this micro switch doing actually. Disconnecting while reach motorized position?
The purpose of the switch is to turn on the boiler. The thermostat controls power to this motor, and when it reaches the end, it holds the switch in position, keeping the boiler on. The switch operates independently of the zone valve. The motor may get warm because it is held in stall, but the motor is designed such that this will not damage it (inpedance protection).
Great video! When wiring back the leads into the system after re-installing the powerhead, does it matter which red is which and which yellow is which (polarity)? With the cover on the powerhead, both leads look the same.
Thank you for your comment! The order of the leads should not matter between same colour wires because the system operates on alternating current. However, be sure to keep the colours consistent.
contact cleaner my man works wonders
Excellent instructive easy to follow video. Can Electric power be carefully supplied to the unit after it has been cleaned and oiled to prove it is opening ??
Yes, it would be possible to do this. Keep in mind that these run on 24 V AC, and DC power supplies or batteries will not run the motor (it will not turn). Do not connect to the wall. Make sure the power is applied to the motor wires and not the switch wires, and you should be able to fully test the operation of the device. The direction of the AC current isn't important (same color wires can be switched)
Thank you for your almost instant and full reply, may I suggest !!!! extra work for you..That you do a short follow up video showing how to carry out the electric check after re-oiling the valve...again than you.
Brake cleaner works for this?
Thank you for this video! I tried reassembly, but I can not get the gears to align and it’s all locked up. Any suggestions?
Hi there,
One thing you can try to do is while attempting to align the gears, turn the output pinion gently with your hand from side to side. This could help you align them. It's normal for the motor to be difficult to rotate by hand once assembled - there is an extreme level of gear reduction involved.
Please let me know if this was helpful, thanks
Hi great educational video. I have a question about what cause the synchronous motor get over heat. Is it valve problem or motor problem? Thank you very much!
What was the response? I have the same problem. What would be the problem?
I have found the bronze cam with lever, (seen at 16:30), the teeth on the cam where it contacts the gear wear down. The drive motor gear doesn't seen to wear. The lever cam teeth wear. Then when you attempt to manually open the valve, the manual lever skips on the drive motor gear. At that point you need spares to swap parts, or buy a new assembly. I assume individual internal gear parts are not available?
Unfortunately they would probably not be available as far as I can tell
Brilliant video @liminalsunset Larry , now ive had a bit of bother with my unit , tested electrical bits with a multi meter , micro switch is fine the motor is fine ( also cleaned and oiled thanks for this)
Now my question is my leaver and spring bit (which is now cleaned and lubed up ) dose not reach the micro swich button when manually moving the leaver !
Is this normal ,does the motor do the final movement to hit the swich ? Or is there something wrong ?? Dont want to re wire it in for it to not right !!
Im guessing its not right as the springs would pull the mechanism and motor backwards but not 100% aghh .
Cheers great video sir
Hi there, thank you for your comment. You are correct in your observation that the manual lever does not activate the microswitch. The motor is used to hold the lever against the switch, and when the power is shut off, the lever will stop pressing the switch.
This is likely for two reasons: 1) to prevent someone from inadvertently opening the valve manually and latching it open, causing the boiler to run constantly even when the thermostat has satisfied 2) to allow a certain zone to be manually turned on at all times, while maintaining thermostat control of the system
Thus, this should not indicate a problem.
@liminalsunset yay thanks for that the cogs dont slip either when sat on top of the valve nipple , only snag is my motor has stopped working after cleaning it some of the magnetic band disintegrated after poking a rusty patch 😀
Larry, awesome video, I have a question. I'm trying to change out the old valve but the valve will not come out. I've removed both screws and turned the valve to open. Any suggestions? Should I disassemble the unit while still connected to the pipe?
Are you attempting to remove the motor power head from the valve, or the top plate of the actual valve itself with the ball that controls flow?
In order to remove the motor power head assembly shown in the video from the water valve attached to the pipe, the metal cover surrounding/on the power head is first removed while on the pipe, then two screws near the sides of the power head are used to remove the power head.
The power head can then be wiggled off the top of the valve carefully. Some force may be necessary here. You might want to wiggle the actuator lever if it remains stuck. Note that the exposed stub has a very limited range of motion and should not be forced, but it is normal for there to be resistance.
If necessary or desired, further screws may now be exposed on the top surface of the valve on some units to allow the valve cover to be opened for inspection of the seal or valve ball. (will cause release of water - turn off automatic refill water line and let cool first!). It will likely be necessary to replace the gasket after this operation.
@@liminalsunset thanks for the reply. I'm trying to remove the entire silver box not portions of it. I tried wiggling but nothing, I'm afraid to break something which is why I thought if I take everything out in pieces it might help to remove. I'll give it one more shot wiggling. If not, do you think it will help if I remove it piece by piece like your video shows?
Hi, I have a synchron motor but the manual arm falls short of the micro switch/end switch. How can it fall short by about 4mm. Have the gears slipped? If so how can I realign them.
This also means that when it’s called for hot water, the switch isn’t engaged to activate the boiler and pump.
Hope you can help.
I found your comment so I’ll post it here:
This appears to be working as designed. The valve requires the motor to push the internal mechanism further than the manual opening limit in order to contact the switch and turn on the heating. This is likely as a safety measure to prevent someone from accidentally having the heat on uncontrollably. Since the valves function correctly from the thermostat, they are likely working properly.
The zone valves can be in either position while installing as long as they seat correctly and the valve position corresponds to the actuator position, so the key of the shaft matches
Thanks for the video. One of my heating zones at home is not working and I noticed I can't slide the lever to the manual open position. It is stuck in the middle. I guess it is a mechanical problem because my finger hurts if keep pushing the lever to manual open.
Do I need to shut the boiler to check the powerhead?
Hi, thank you for your comment. You will definitely want to make sure the power to the system is switched off before attempting to do anything. You may want to attempt to remove the power head carefully then carefully try to turn the valve stem underneath (will only move less than about 90 degrees) to determine if it is stuck and/or if the valve works.
@@liminalsunset So I spend a couple of hours troubleshooting my ZVs and I noticed one of the sprints is off-hook on the ZV with jammed lever. I put the sprint back on the hook (without dismantling or taking off the powerhead) but still can slide to manual open. Other zones work just fine and for the zone in question, supply water pipe is hot but the return one is cold...
@@briwanginfo If the lever is unable to move to the open position, then there is a chance the actual valve itself is stuck. You can verify that by removing the two screws to remove the powerhead and verify whether the underlying valve is stuck. If the valve is indeed stuck, then you have an entirely different problem than the video describes. You may want to cross-examine the positions and open-close positions of a working zone in comparison to the non-working one to validate your assumptions and diagnosis. Hope this helps.
@@liminalsunset So I turned thermostats in other zones all the way off and manually pressed the end switch on the ZV in question, it fired up the boiler and I kept on pressing the end switch then after a couple of mins I noticed the weird sound in the pipes. I was frightened so I released the end switch button. Later I noticed the red hand of the pressure gauge went up to 35 PSI. Black one stays at 12 PSI.
Is my ZV cause the no heat issue? End switch seems fine as it fires up the boiler but what's with pressure? First-time homeowner and I really appreciate the input.
@@briwanginfo The way zone valves are typically connected, hydraulically, is in parallel. In order for hot water to make its way through the system, it will need to take a path through one or more zone valves, then through piping and radiators, and back to the boiler. Many systems also implement an anti-backflow check valve in the circulator pump(s), which prevents water flow in the other direction.
When you press the end switch of the non-working zone valve, I am not sure whether you also manually "open" the valve for the hot water to flow. If you do not, or the valve is broken and cannot be opened, the boiler will operate and heat the water contained within the boiler. This water will expand when heated, and because the valves are all closed, pumps will be unable to circulate it, and the water may be trapped between the back flow prevention check valve and the zone valves. Thus, the pressure may rise (I am guessing that the red one measures the pressure at the boiler).
The best way to check the zone valve would maybe be to 1) remove the power head 2) make a note of the open and closed position of the valve stem using the power head as a guide 3) activate the system using a thermostat from another working zone, so that water flow is maintained to allow the boiler to operate correctly 4) manually rotate the valve stem on the suspect valve to the "open" position, and verify whether heat in the affected zone is provided.
If there is no heat, the valve itself, which attaches to the water piping, may need replacement. If there is, then further inspection of the affected power head may help.
Best cleaner is brake cleaner. Or if any plastic parts used go with electrical cleaner. A bit less aggressive.
And engine oil is too thin. Better to use white lithium spray grease. And I keep some MMO in a dropper bottle for the fine bearings.
Potassium hydroxide is highly caustic and any residue not cleaned off will eat at the metal.
I just installed 3 new zone valves, they work when heat is called for from the thermostat but when I try to switch them to the manual position, the lever does not make contact with the switch. Any idea what to do about that? Should the ZV be in the auto or manual position when installing / may the position of the valve stem upon installation have anything to do with it?
This appears to be working as designed. The valve requires the motor to push the internal mechanism further than the manual opening limit in order to contact the switch and turn on the heating. This is likely as a safety measure to prevent someone from accidentally having the heat on uncontrollably. Since the valves function correctly from the thermostat, they are likely working properly.
The zone valves can be in either position while installing as long as they seat correctly and the valve position corresponds to the actuator position, so the key of the shaft matches.
@@liminalsunset Ahh ok so the manual lever is to operate the valve stem not the switch. Thanks for such a quick reply!
@@billbarker4907 That's good to know
Hi Larry, if this was stuck would it explain a regular knocking sound when I turn the heating on and there is no heating? Thanks, I have hot water but no heating
Hi, sorry I missed this comment. Not sure what kind of a system you are using but it sounds like it's a combination boiler. One thing you might try is to use the manual open lever to operate the valve while the heating is running and see if there is heating.
@@liminalsunset Thanks, no it's a condensing boiler and I've already tried putting the lever into manual but it still didn't work. Ive got the engineer coming next week as I think it might be the pump.
Lever in manual position doesn't usually close the micro-switch so the boiler/pump would not start.
Brake parts cleaner might be a bit safer to use than hydrochloride - especially if you are gonna blast it with air !
From the auto parts store, you can use brake clean or electronics cleaner. It's a lot easier and quicker and safer.
Mine won't open sometimes, I wake up in the middle of the night and it's 62 degrees (thermostat set to 70) and furnace feels hot but the valve is closed. I then manually open and it's work for another 8-36 hours (closing and opening by itself). I replaces my thermostat, just in case that was the problem, but no luck.
It's called a bad end switch
Do you have a used gear and bushing I can purchase from you
Unfortunately I don't have an extra assembly sitting around to pull apart, but you might want to check on eBay. If you are in the US, it seems the whole assembly actually goes for not a lot of money used, (~25 USD free shipping?), which I'd probably point you to even if I had the parts since shipping from Canada would likely eat up any savings. Seeing how cheap they are might negate the point of the video, but I suppose if you didn't want to wait for shipping it would still be useful.
Will brake clean work? As the degeaser
It would be best to make sure to use something that's safe for plastic if there are plastic parts in the area you are cleaning. Some cleaners may damage plastic or lacquer coatings on the motor wires. Check the MSDS for the product you plan to use. I would personally recommend starting with something less aggressive.
Your the man. Had three out of four "not working" copied this video ND ow my house is cozy and comfortable saved myself about 700 or bucks. Thanks again Larry and God bless youtube!!!
When I pull the manual lever all the way, it's still a few millimeters from pressing the end switch. Is that normal?
Mine too, I hope we get a reply. I posted this exact problem too in the comments. Did you mend yours?
From an earlier comment (Hadn't had a chance to reply to these yet)
This appears to be working as designed. The valve requires the motor to push the internal mechanism further than the manual opening limit in order to contact the switch and turn on the heating. This is likely as a safety measure to prevent someone from accidentally having the heat on uncontrollably. Since the valves function correctly from the thermostat, they are likely working properly.
The zone valves can be in either position while installing as long as they seat correctly and the valve position corresponds to the actuator position, so the key of the shaft matches
Can someone please help? I installed a new gas bolier recently. But for some reason the boiler is running without reading the thermostat. Is this a faulty wiring or something to do with the boiler installation? The thermostat is getting power, it reads the time and measures the temperature in the room, but it doesnt regulate the house temperature set on the thermostat with the boiler . Its set at 70 but the house temp is 90! Is this a wire burnt out or is it a faulty installation?
Hi, there are a number of things that could have caused this problem. If the boiler was recently installed, you should contact whoever did the work to have them repair it under warranty. From a end user perspective, you can try to use the thermostat to "switch off" the entire system if there is a separate control, and observe whether there is a reaction. This may help you to narrow down whether the thermostat is incorrectly programmed or malfunctioning.
From a technical standpoint, potential causes for this could be a miswired thermostat, incorrect configuration of the boiler (if electronic), incorrect thermostat programming, incorrect thermostat wiring installation, or a defect in some system component.
You might find reviewing the manuals/installation documentation for the thermostat and/or boiler to be helpful. They can usually be found online by searching for the model numbers of the equipment. Feel free to report back with the model numbers if you would like.
As a temporary measure, there should be a way to turn the power to the unit off using a wall switch or at the fuse box.
@@liminalsunset Hi, I just had it installed like a couple days ago. its a Burnham X207, 210,000 BTU gas fired hot water
boiler. The plumber said the wires are burnt out and he doesnt do wiring. SO he had one is his guys install a temp thermostat in the basement- but now the basement apartment has no heat now for some reason after they installed the temporary thermostat in the basement. but I think that makes no sense. I dont want to pay $1k+ for an electrician just because he didnt do the wiring right. I still owe him $7k for this job, shoudl I calll another boiler guy to look at it to mke sure its a wiring issue or a faulty wiring to the boiler issue. I have no idea what to do now.
@@missdhara6434 Thank you for providing this information. It appears from your description that the boiler uses a simple two wire 24V control scheme to operate, ruling out software issues.
It also appears that your system has at least two zones in it - one for the basement apartment, and one for the rest of the building. It's likely that the person who was sent to install the temporary thermostat hooked it up to the upstairs zone only, leaving the basement apartment zone inoperable. The system will run but the valve to the basement unit will remain closed, providing heat only to other parts of the building.
Based on your description of the thermostat being able to receive power, at least two wires going to the thermostat are not shorted; as such, it should be possible, in the worst case, to fit a battery operated thermostat without redoing the wiring.
I would suggest that you obtain some second opinions, and ask the technician to use measuring equipment to test which wires are good and which are shorted.
It's plausible, as well, that some mistakes were made during the wiring of the system. Without any pictures or video of the system, it's impossible to tell how it was set up. Typically, without physical damages or water ingress, thermostat wiring isn't carrying much electrical current and shouldn't short out under normal circumstances.
If there is a significant desire to avoid rewiring the thermostat wires, in the worst case, it may also be possible to use a wireless thermostat system to work around the potential problems.
@@liminalsunset Thank you so very much, I will contact an HVAC guy that works with thermostats/wiring boilers because Im not a plumber or an electrician, but it sounded very odd to me that this guy I hired to do the oil tpo gas conversion said the thermostat wires just all of a sudden got burnt out- but meanwhile the clock and the themometer are still working on it- where is it getting power from to do that. Then he tells me he doesnt do wiring. I guess that means wiring from/ to the boiler as well.
Why Wd 40 can not use for this?
WD-40 doesn't provide long lasting lubrication. It's very thin and doesn't stick well.
Mine is clicking. What do you think could be wrong with it
There could be many sources of this problem. Ideally, you could post a video about this to provide more information.
Typically, you may want to first remove the actuator from the actual water valve, and test each part by hand to see where the clicking is from.
I had a similar clicking noise. In my case, the spur gear was plastic and teeth were sheared off. The clicking was actually the pinion grabbing and slipping past the broken teeth.
Notice the plastic gear in the main body of the motor housing. Let me see, heat then cold thousands of cycles per heating season multiplied by 18 years of time. Sure seems like an engineering snafu !
You're better off just replacing the control valve. Why leave yourself open for a no heat call, because it will happen on the coldest day when no ones open and everyone is snowed in. 150, 200 is cheap as far as assurance and peace of mind. After you cleaned all that it will eventually burn out at the motor windings. Everything has a shelf life. Keep a spare on hand.
How do you change the control valve? Where do you get one? We bought the motor for $40 on Amazon but need the valve
Sorry dude. U gotta be kidding.
Thank you