Thanks for this. In early December 23 when servicing our heating the engineer told us the zone valve was sticking and needed to be replaced because there was a 10 minute delay before system fired up. He had ordered the part and would come and fit it. In February the valve started sticking in the open position and after watching this video I was able to release it and messaged the heating engineer to have the work done. No response. Eventually as the problem got worse I ordered a Synchron Motor for £13.95. It arrived in a couple of days and was fitted in about 20 minutes. The hardest part was re fitting the tiny screws. All working great now. Thanks for providing so many really helpful instruction videos. They are a great help.
Thanks for this excellent video. My daughter was quoted £330 by CH company to replace the motorised valve and that’s on top of a call out fee of £86. After looking at your video I sourced a syncron motor for £9.75 and fitted it myself in 20 minutes. A tremendous saving. My daughter is very pleased. Shame on the CH company. Thanks once again. MG, Wirral.
Spot diagnosis. I just needed to manually move the lever on the heating circuit back and forth a couple of times, and now it works fine - might have been a build up of material in the valve itself preventing operation. So you could try that before replacing any parts. Thanks Roger, saved a few quid there!
This is such a good video. It’s so clear and concise. After 5 visits from plumbers who failed to diagnose or fix the problem we ordered the part and did the job ourselves. You are the only person who helped us and we must have saved a fortune. Thanks
Yay, thanks so much - just sorted out our valve issue £14 for the part. I’m glad now that the plumber wasn’t able to come out as it would have cost much more than £14 I’m sure. Also feels good to do it myself.
Thanks a bunch for this, I waited for three different plunbers/heating engineers to arrive and would have been happy to pay whatever, but all no shows. so on Sunday I swapped the downstairs valve ( faulty) with the hot water valve and just used the electric to heat the water. today I bought a new valve and replaced the water heating. all good now, thanks again.
Roger, THANK YOU so much! 1am the night before a bank holiday, staying at my mum's, and I notice after watching the snooker that there are noises coming from her airing cupboard - the pump is running hell for leather despite both CH or DHW being off. Boiler on, of course, and her smart meter energy monitoring gadget screaming blue murder! I checked her Hive system, and eventually decided that the problem might be one of the S-plan valves sticking open. I've dealt with combi systems before but never something like this. Your video gave me the confidence to diagnose the issue - sure enough, the lever was loose on the DHW valve. So I popped down to Screwfix in the morning and fitted a new valve head unit. It's all working nicely now. The old unit really isn't in great shape (hence replacing the whole head) but I'll probably run my multimeter over the motor sometime. I'll definitely be checking out a few more of your videos. Thanks again, and keep up the good work!
A massive thank you for this video. I have had no Hot Water but Central Heating is working perfectly. I was just about to call in a plumber with all the cost that brings when I saw your excellent video. I did the diagnostic test on the valves and one did seem to be faulty. To be extra sure I removed the motor from the CH valve and put it into the hot water valve. Tested the hot water and it worked perfectly. I have now ordered a new motor for little more than a tenner and will fit that back into the CH valve. I reckon I probably saved £200 or so, I also have a great sense of satisfaction and the wife thinks I'm brilliant! Thanks again Roger!
ROGER you're star you just saved me at least £150-£200 pounds I had a quote from a plumber he said its about £70 for a new valve and we may have to drain the system plus two hours labour... I saw this video .........ordered a syncro motor from amazon for £10 and fitted it in under an hour all working fine. I think you're the best plumber on here as your videos are so clear and made it so easy for me. It makes you think where can you get a decent plumber that will do the job as fairly as possible, you are continually on your guard to make sure you're not getting ripped off. Thank you so much..... Craig
I am glad it helped. I always give the customer the option of the synchrom motor change. If the valve is operating freely there is no need to change it. If you want to help our channel grow please like and share and maybe watch another video. We have over 600 videos now and some of the older ones are hardly watched.
Really clear & informative video. Turned a daunting job into an easy one took the motor off, found the gog was gunged up. Greased the cog and now works fine cost £0, so thank you for saving me £300 or more!
Great info, Thank You. I had issues last evening with the boiler not firing up when Hot Water was called for. To confirm it was the Valve, i swapped the two control wires over, swapped the Hot Water and Central heating valves over, then called for Hot water and the boiler fired up. I then called for central Heating and sods law, that fired up also. Chances are the motor is on its way out so ordered one today.
Fantastic video. Really clear and concise. Good context and then deep dive. Helped sort my hot water issue out in 15mins and £15 rather than the £140 for a plumbers labour as quoted. Maybe a few ideas for some more: - changing/recharging an expansion vessel - draining a hot water cylinder. - swapping out a pressure relief valve. Overall well done and thanks!
Hi I don’t ever comment on videos but after watching yours I managed to completely fix my central heating that we have been putting up with not working properly all winter. I just wanted to say thank you very much for posting such a helpful and clear video. It turned out to be a very easy job! Thanks for you help!
great help, well explained and easy to implement. we had the motor making a noise, we were not sure what it was, so called the assistance (for which we pay insurance). they would not even come, and if they did they would have charged 50£, despite the insurance said it was covered. 20£ of part, 30 min of work on my side, and the job was done. thank you so much
I had this exact same problem with my central heating.... no hot water, after watching this I checked that small lever and yes it was loose with no tension on it. £10.50 later with a new motor off ebay fitted glorious hot water again. Thank you so much for such a clear and easy video to follow with good clear instructions. A subscribe well worth having.
This video was spot on, thank you! Came home from a weekend away to find the house cold. The heating was asking for demand but the boiler was not firing. After some fault finding, I identified the 2 port valve was not closing the circuit. £10 and a day later, I’ve replaced the synchron thanks to this video and it appears (touch wood) to be working! God knows what that would have cost to get a professional out.
@@Eatprepd I can’t remember but I don’t believe it was. Do you have a lever on your 2 part valve? If you do, manually move it across and if the pump comes on with the boiler, you’ll have found your fault.
Awesome job thank you. Bought a new motor from Amazon, inc delivery it was £11 and after watching your video it was an easy change, saved me a lot of money.
Cheers Roger! My boiler is now firing after changing the synchron motor. Couldn’t work out why boiler fired occasionally and not at other times despite the thermostat correctly calling for heat all the time. Turns out the motorised valve was failing to open/close despite power reaching the motor due to it getting hot and the sticky old oil on the cog making turning the valve more difficult. This is why it worked from cold but not when hot. Love learning new skills from you buddy, you really make things simple to understand and give keen diyers the confidence to give it a go. Thank you
Ok 18 months ago I watched this video and thanks to Roger (probably the best, most straightforward plumber you could find) I carried out the motorised valve replacement. A few days ago the boiler started off by refusing to turn off other than by switching off at the mains. So as I had other health issues to attend to that's what we done. Switched it on at the mains in the morning and off at the mains at night. I called my friendly Worcester Bosch man who said it's not the boiler, it's the valves. "Give the valves a knock with a hammer" he said "that sometimes clears it". My first attempt was not successful. So I left it. This morning the boiler was manually switched on at the mains. It worked for a few hours then it switched off. I couldn't get it started again no matter what. Went up in the loft knocked the valves with hammer. Nothing. I decided to replace the motorised valves again so came upstairs went on my P.C., watched dear Roger's video again just to remind myself how to do the job. Suddenly it felt a little warmer and miraculously the heating has come back on! Now the question. Should I replace the motorised valves or leave well alone?
Thank you Roger, simple steps to help a layman like myself to understand. I fixed my daughters central heating problem at the weekend which not only saved them ££’s but it also saved them having a cold weekend.
Nice video Roger, sparks tend to avoid central heating wiring as it goes against most things they are taught! A lot of people shy away from it but it's fairly simple at the end of the day, it's just individual circuits that turn things on or off, the boiler is dumb it just knows when to fire up.
Thank you so much for this. Your videos allowed me to diagnose the problem and repair the valve today. Now I have warm house and a happy family again. You have a new subscriber.
Roger you a gem, hope you keep fit and keep sharing you wisdome with us. Your grumpiness are little fireworks around the main show. May God keep you well
Excellent video. I was able to diagnose and fix my heating issue. My synchro motor was buzzing and I swapped it out with another unit that I had left over from a previous repair. Cost me zero dollars to fix a home that won't heat. Thank you! Subscribed!
Thank you. My motor was just spinning non-stop and getting hot. I removed it and noticed no resistance when turning the screw arbor. New Synchronised Motor ordered from Screwfix - all back up and running now :-)
Thanks roger. our motor packed up Xmas day just before lunch, just bought a Honeywell replacement for £38 and fitted in in 20 minutes. Bought a spare at the same time.
Just to reiterate the good comments stated already, great video!!! and cheers. This video was just the info I needed to get past my initial problem, which is turn tells me exactly what the issues was. Thanks for the clear delivery, I have subscribed. Great site.
Thank you so much. I just changed the synchronous motor in one of my valves and it solved my heating problem! Wouldn’t have known how to do it without your wonderful video. Thanks again.
Thanks for another excellent video. I wish RUclips had existed when I had to change motorised valves for the first time 20 years ago. I was quoted circa 200 pounds back in the 90's for a new motor by a plumber and had to work it out myself-as you say, its not a very difficult job and in my case the motors have failed every few years (mainly after the summer, when the motor hasn't been exercised). It might be worth mentioning that the CH programmer should be set to run for a few minutes, even in the summer just to exercise the motor.
This video helped saved me £££‘S Woke up last night about 2am feeling really hot and sickly think what’s going on, wife wakes also feeling the same then we realise our bedroom radiator is on full! Doesn’t have the thermostat vales because there is a thermostat walled mount in the room. I check the thermostat on the wall and see it’s not on however reporting that the room temp is 28c! So off the airing cupboard and yep the combi broiler is churning away running the upstairs central heating. My central heating is zoned so upstairs heading is separate to down stairs and two thermostats Controls these one in our room upstairs and one downstairs near front door. Check down stairs and it’s all cool so then I troubleshoot and find my way to where the two valves are that control both zone and sure enough by going near the upstairs one can feel the heat so not I’m sure I’ve found where the issue is caused next is good old google at 2:30am to see what sort of fix and the damage to the wallet. Search returned this video so this morning been to screw fox picked up the motor swapped it out form the old and all is working well again! I had the opposite issue where the valve was stuck open so the boiler was feeding heat but still the same fix. Now subscribing to this channel thank you again From a very ashamed to say novice diyer!
Brilliant thank you ever so much. I've just temporarily fixed mine. Tomorrow I will go get the bits to fix it now i know what it is! I was worried it was going to cost me a fortune. Brilliant!😍
Thanks for this excellent video, it gave me the confidence to tackle this job. Two things not shown 1) the left hand mounting has no screw but it does need to sit in a slot correctly - bit of jiggling and mirror is useful, 2) my Honeywell V4043H1056 had torx10 screws not posidrives. Apart from that, much easier job than I expected. Thanks again.
just did this on my boiler, cost £24 for the motor from screwfix plus £4 for some grease to daub on the cog. The only awkward bit was getting to the screw! Thanks for the video :)
I just had to replace it again 3 years later, these motors seem to not last lobe. But thanks to you I replaced it for the cost of the motor $42 dollars here in New York!
Super tip Rodger , having untold problems with water heating coupled with emersion problems and very small repair budget . Perhaps some light at the end of the tunnel now ! Thanks man !
Excellent comprehensive video and a real money saver. Many thanks. Pay extra special attention to isolating the electrical power supply..as Roger says!
brilliant video. my unvented cylinder was not heating water although the boiler was working. what you described is exactly what my valve looks like. a £10 part next day from amazon sorted it! cheers i reckon a plumber would have been lookin at over £100 to sort that
A very informative video, I suspect this is the fault that’s causing her radiators to heat up when CH switched off. I can now change the motor after ensuring the 3 way valve isn’t jammed . Hopefully it will work, if not I’ll proceed to draining the system and fitting a new valve body and actuator Many Thanks, hopefully it will save her a plumbers call out and labour charge which as a retiree she simply can’t afford
Unless it's a really old Honeywell valve, you can change the head without draining down. Also the boiler will not fire up just by locking the leaver open. The manual operation is for filling and draining the system. If the lever is locked over, the boiler will operate if the other valve is calling for heat or hot water.
Thank you so much for this brilliant video. I am a women in my 60s and after watching his I now feel confident to sort my heating out. I now that you make it look easy but the full explanation and reasoning behind why I have to follow the safe and sensible steps have helped me no end. I have subscribed.
Thanks for another great video its given an understanding of how the valve works, I have slightly different problem my central heating pump is running even when hot water or heating not on. I moved the cable going into the motorised valve and the pump stopped immediately. Not sure what the problem is but appears to be to do with that valve. Thanks again
Goodness, you are a great teacher! I'll play with my motorised valve tomorrow and see if it looks similar to yours. If it does, I will order the syncron motor, and fingers crossed that will be the end of my troubles ;) Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
@@SkillBuilder Very strange when we swapped the functioning motor from water to heating. The motor spun around as soon as we switched power back on even though we hadn't switched the central heating on. This didn't happen when same motor was on the hot water. It worked normally. Does that indicate it's the programmer?
great vid.. my plumber (unfortunately now retired) said I would be able to do this myself.. scared stiff because I thought you needed to turn the water off! ...
Thanks for video. Good explanation. Have a Honeywell value that gets mighty hot when in use. I understand that how water is flowing through it but it seems hot. May just purchase a new motor and replace. Using a Tadoo system as well. High recommend as a heading controller..
They are hot when in use. Try turning the boiler off and running the system with no heat. If the valve is warm there is a problem but my guess is that it is the hot water rather than the motor. Those synchron motors don't produce much heat.
Thanks for the excellent video Roger. Very informative. I installed a 3 port Honeywell in my heating 17 years ago. It replaced a different make. Its playing up now and I am grateful of the reminder of its internals as I recall the wiring up was tricky. Its actually a Honeywell 3 port valve and its letting by to the CH circuit in mid Summer. Not sure if the motor or the ball within it is to blame. However I have turned off each radiator and that's stopped it. Who can afford the waste of energy let alone extra live with the extra heat?
As a heating engineer, I can assure you, you will not get another 17 years out of another Honeywell valve now. I don't know what is up with their QC but their valves are now very poor, constant call backs to failed valves after months or just weeks in which I refuse to now fit their valves. Such a disappointment. Not telling you where to spend your money however as a industry professional I would go with another brand 👍 As for your issue with it bypassing, it's more than likely the ball inside the valve not shutting or seating properly, you can buy just the body part of your valve but will require draining down. Hope this helps👍
I just wondered if this box/valve gets hot when heating is on? I have an oil boiler system. You made it look really easy to change so i might just have a go myself 😊 thanks.
@@SkillBuilder oh thank you for replying 😊 it's not scalding hot, thank goodness so I'm hoping it's ok and not going to set on fire. Mind you it's an old system. I think this has made me decide to look into getting the whole radiator system replaced, although I know it will cost a bomb 😔 😁 thanks again 👍
Brilliant video thank you, can you tell me how to isolate the power supply to the head without having to turn the power off to the entire house please ? Thanks.
7:18 The man's a saint. Everything I wanted to know about that lever. I couldn't find it explicitly stated anywhere, even in the installation and specs PDF's (Not Honeywell, but Motortrol Valves model, but same principle).what that lever does.
If you have a '3 way' valve, it is sometimes the microswitch that goes and not the motor. You can get the complete unit (the silver box) and swap it with just two screws. Again, no draining required. You have to trace the cable back to the junction box, where there are usually five wires. The colour code seems universal. Swap the wires one at a time and you should not get into trouble. Power off of course!
Thanks for the video save me 300 British pound that I was quoted by a company to change the valve and I just bought the motor for 19.99 and fitted myself in 10 min and now we have heating in the house
Thanks for this. In early December 23 when servicing our heating the engineer told us the zone valve was sticking and needed to be replaced because there was a 10 minute delay before system fired up. He had ordered the part and would come and fit it. In February the valve started sticking in the open position and after watching this video I was able to release it and messaged the heating engineer to have the work done. No response. Eventually as the problem got worse I ordered a Synchron Motor for £13.95. It arrived in a couple of days and was fitted in about 20 minutes. The hardest part was re fitting the tiny screws. All working great now. Thanks for providing so many really helpful instruction videos. They are a great help.
Thanks for this excellent video. My daughter was quoted £330 by CH company to replace the motorised valve and that’s on top of a call out fee of £86. After looking at your video I sourced a syncron motor for £9.75 and fitted it myself in 20 minutes. A tremendous saving. My daughter is very pleased. Shame on the CH company. Thanks once again. MG, Wirral.
No shame on that company that’s standard price In London don’t be mad u don’t make that much money
Great video. Fair play
@@judehajichambi4147 It pays to be handy. Its the equivalent of wages.
Where did you source the synchron motor from
Spot diagnosis.
I just needed to manually move the lever on the heating circuit back and forth a couple of times, and now it works fine - might have been a build up of material in the valve itself preventing operation.
So you could try that before replacing any parts.
Thanks Roger, saved a few quid there!
This is such a good video. It’s so clear and concise. After 5 visits from plumbers who failed to diagnose or fix the problem we ordered the part and did the job ourselves. You are the only person who helped us and we must have saved a fortune. Thanks
I second that Susan
Yay, thanks so much - just sorted out our valve issue £14 for the part. I’m glad now that the plumber wasn’t able to come out as it would have cost much more than £14 I’m sure. Also feels good to do it myself.
Thanks a bunch for this, I waited for three different plunbers/heating engineers to arrive and would have been happy to pay whatever, but all no shows. so on Sunday I swapped the downstairs valve ( faulty) with the hot water valve and just used the electric to heat the water. today I bought a new valve and replaced the water heating. all good now, thanks again.
retired plumber, aggree with all. Very helpful and not beyond your average DIY person.
Roger, THANK YOU so much!
1am the night before a bank holiday, staying at my mum's, and I notice after watching the snooker that there are noises coming from her airing cupboard - the pump is running hell for leather despite both CH or DHW being off. Boiler on, of course, and her smart meter energy monitoring gadget screaming blue murder!
I checked her Hive system, and eventually decided that the problem might be one of the S-plan valves sticking open. I've dealt with combi systems before but never something like this.
Your video gave me the confidence to diagnose the issue - sure enough, the lever was loose on the DHW valve. So I popped down to Screwfix in the morning and fitted a new valve head unit. It's all working nicely now. The old unit really isn't in great shape (hence replacing the whole head) but I'll probably run my multimeter over the motor sometime.
I'll definitely be checking out a few more of your videos. Thanks again, and keep up the good work!
A massive thank you for this video. I have had no Hot Water but Central Heating is working perfectly. I was just about to call in a plumber with all the cost that brings when I saw your excellent video. I did the diagnostic test on the valves and one did seem to be faulty. To be extra sure I removed the motor from the CH valve and put it into the hot water valve. Tested the hot water and it worked perfectly. I have now ordered a new motor for little more than a tenner and will fit that back into the CH valve. I reckon I probably saved £200 or so, I also have a great sense of satisfaction and the wife thinks I'm brilliant! Thanks again Roger!
Where did you find the that Valve?
ROGER you're star you just saved me at least £150-£200 pounds I had a quote from a plumber he said its about £70 for a new valve and we may have to drain the system plus two hours labour... I saw this video .........ordered a syncro motor from amazon for £10 and fitted it in under an hour all working fine. I think you're the best plumber on here as your videos are so clear and made it so easy for me. It makes you think where can you get a decent plumber that will do the job as fairly as possible, you are continually on your guard to make sure you're not getting ripped off. Thank you so much..... Craig
I am glad it helped. I always give the customer the option of the synchrom motor change. If the valve is operating freely there is no need to change it. If you want to help our channel grow please like and share and maybe watch another video. We have over 600 videos now and some of the older ones are hardly watched.
Really clear & informative video. Turned a daunting job into an easy one took the motor off, found the gog was gunged up. Greased the cog and now works fine cost £0, so thank you for saving me £300 or more!
Great info, Thank You.
I had issues last evening with the boiler not firing up when Hot Water was called for.
To confirm it was the Valve, i swapped the two control wires over, swapped the Hot Water and Central heating valves over, then called for Hot water and the boiler fired up.
I then called for central Heating and sods law, that fired up also.
Chances are the motor is on its way out so ordered one today.
Thanks Roger - this video explained the problem and solution very clearly - I replaced my two motorised valves and fixed my heating problem.
Thank you very much. I managed to fix my CH myself after watching this video. It took 20 minutes cos I was being careful and only cost £15. Top man.
Fantastic video. Really clear and concise. Good context and then deep dive. Helped sort my hot water issue out in 15mins and £15 rather than the £140 for a plumbers labour as quoted.
Maybe a few ideas for some more:
- changing/recharging an expansion vessel
- draining a hot water cylinder.
- swapping out a pressure relief valve.
Overall well done and thanks!
ALL YOUR VIDS ARE CLEAR AND CONCISE .gREAT WORK FOR EVERYONE WHO FINDS THEM
Hi I don’t ever comment on videos but after watching yours I managed to completely fix my central heating that we have been putting up with not working properly all winter. I just wanted to say thank you very much for posting such a helpful and clear video. It turned out to be a very easy job! Thanks for you help!
Thanks Helen. Glad to hear that you are now up and running. It makes it worthwhile
great help, well explained and easy to implement. we had the motor making a noise, we were not sure what it was, so called the assistance (for which we pay insurance). they would not even come, and if they did they would have charged 50£, despite the insurance said it was covered. 20£ of part, 30 min of work on my side, and the job was done. thank you so much
I had this exact same problem with my central heating.... no hot water, after watching this I checked that small lever and yes it was loose with no tension on it. £10.50 later with a new motor off ebay fitted glorious hot water again. Thank you so much for such a clear and easy video to follow with good clear instructions. A subscribe well worth having.
This video was spot on, thank you! Came home from a weekend away to find the house cold. The heating was asking for demand but the boiler was not firing. After some fault finding, I identified the 2 port valve was not closing the circuit. £10 and a day later, I’ve replaced the synchron thanks to this video and it appears (touch wood) to be working! God knows what that would have cost to get a professional out.
Was your motor moving? I can hear the valve whiring but the boiler aint powering up
@@Eatprepd I can’t remember but I don’t believe it was. Do you have a lever on your 2 part valve? If you do, manually move it across and if the pump comes on with the boiler, you’ll have found your fault.
Awesome job thank you. Bought a new motor from Amazon, inc delivery it was £11 and after watching your video it was an easy change, saved me a lot of money.
Nice work!
Cheers Roger! My boiler is now firing after changing the synchron motor. Couldn’t work out why boiler fired occasionally and not at other times despite the thermostat correctly calling for heat all the time. Turns out the motorised valve was failing to open/close despite power reaching the motor due to it getting hot and the sticky old oil on the cog making turning the valve more difficult. This is why it worked from cold but not when hot. Love learning new skills from you buddy, you really make things simple to understand and give keen diyers the confidence to give it a go. Thank you
Excellent instructional video. Very clear, accurate and comprehensive. Replaced motor in ½ hr for £13.
Nice work!
Ok 18 months ago I watched this video and thanks to Roger (probably the best, most straightforward plumber you could find) I carried out the motorised valve replacement. A few days ago the boiler started off by refusing to turn off other than by switching off at the mains. So as I had other health issues to attend to that's what we done. Switched it on at the mains in the morning and off at the mains at night. I called my friendly Worcester Bosch man who said it's not the boiler, it's the valves. "Give the valves a knock with a hammer" he said "that sometimes clears it". My first attempt was not successful. So I left it.
This morning the boiler was manually switched on at the mains. It worked for a few hours then it switched off. I couldn't get it started again no matter what. Went up in the loft knocked the valves with hammer. Nothing. I decided to replace the motorised valves again so came upstairs went on my P.C., watched dear Roger's video again just to remind myself how to do the job.
Suddenly it felt a little warmer and miraculously the heating has come back on! Now the question. Should I replace the motorised valves or leave well alone?
Thank you Roger, simple steps to help a layman like myself to understand. I fixed my daughters central heating problem at the weekend which not only saved them ££’s but it also saved them having a cold weekend.
Glad it helped
This is a "public service" you giving here! 👍
Thanks
5 minutes in and I’ve fixed my heating by opening that valve. Boom subscribed. Excellent explanation. Thank you
Really useful explanation about motorized valves. It helped me to fix my central heating problem. Thanks Roger.
Nice video Roger, sparks tend to avoid central heating wiring as it goes against most things they are taught! A lot of people shy away from it but it's fairly simple at the end of the day, it's just individual circuits that turn things on or off, the boiler is dumb it just knows when to fire up.
Thank you so much for this. Your videos allowed me to diagnose the problem and repair the valve today. Now I have warm house and a happy family again. You have a new subscriber.
Roger you a gem, hope you keep fit and keep sharing you wisdome with us. Your grumpiness are little fireworks around the main show. May God keep you well
Excellent video. I was able to diagnose and fix my heating issue. My synchro motor was buzzing and I swapped it out with another unit that I had left over from a previous repair. Cost me zero dollars to fix a home that won't heat.
Thank you!
Subscribed!
Thank you. My motor was just spinning non-stop and getting hot. I removed it and noticed no resistance when turning the screw arbor. New Synchronised Motor ordered from Screwfix - all back up and running now :-)
Excellent video. It was very helpful. With your great guidance, I replaced the faulty zone valve and I now have hot water. Thanks
Great job! So glad you got it done
Thanks roger. our motor packed up Xmas day just before lunch, just bought a Honeywell replacement for £38 and fitted in in 20 minutes. Bought a spare at the same time.
Good work. I am glad it got you out of a hole
Great video. Great explanation. Just had exactly this problem and the heating engineer changed the syncron motor rather than the entire valve.
Great to hear!
Just to reiterate the good comments stated already, great video!!! and cheers.
This video was just the info I needed to get past my initial problem, which is turn tells me exactly what the issues was.
Thanks for the clear delivery, I have subscribed. Great site.
Thank you so much.
I just changed the synchronous motor in one of my valves and it solved my heating problem!
Wouldn’t have known how to do it without your wonderful video.
Thanks again.
Glad it helped
Thank you. Very interesting. I have just replaced the last 4 of 4 zone controls in a 20-year-old home.
Thanks for another excellent video. I wish RUclips had existed when I had to change motorised valves for the first time 20 years ago. I was quoted circa 200 pounds back in the 90's for a new motor by a plumber and had to work it out myself-as you say, its not a very difficult job and in my case the motors have failed every few years (mainly after the summer, when the motor hasn't been exercised). It might be worth mentioning that the CH programmer should be set to run for a few minutes, even in the summer just to exercise the motor.
Extremely helpful to know theres a bypass when hot water isn't flowing through the taps. Got me out of a sticky situation. Thank you. ❤
This video helped saved me £££‘S
Woke up last night about 2am feeling really hot and sickly think what’s going on, wife wakes also feeling the same then we realise our bedroom radiator is on full! Doesn’t have the thermostat vales because there is a thermostat walled mount in the room.
I check the thermostat on the wall and see it’s not on however reporting that the room temp is 28c!
So off the airing cupboard and yep the combi broiler is churning away running the upstairs central heating.
My central heating is zoned so upstairs heading is separate to down stairs and two thermostats
Controls these one in our room upstairs and one downstairs near front door.
Check down stairs and it’s all cool so then I troubleshoot and find my way to where the two valves are that control both zone and sure enough by going near the upstairs one can feel the heat so not I’m sure I’ve found where the issue is caused next is good old google at 2:30am to see what sort of fix and the damage to the wallet.
Search returned this video so this morning been to screw fox picked up the motor swapped it out form the old and all is working well again!
I had the opposite issue where the valve was stuck open so the boiler was feeding heat but still the same fix.
Now subscribing to this channel thank you again
From a very ashamed to say novice diyer!
Thanks I actually have one of these that's failed. Going to give it a try as a DIY project, you probably saved me a service call.
Thanks for the great video - just replaced the motor in on of my valves. Heating now working perfectly!
Excellent!
Brilliant thank you ever so much. I've just temporarily fixed mine. Tomorrow I will go get the bits to fix it now i know what it is! I was worried it was going to cost me a fortune. Brilliant!😍
I did it! Worked straight away. It took less then a hour but was in a really tricky, hard to get to area. Thank you
Excellent, love this guy. right on and uncomplicated, top work dude!
Thanks for this excellent video, it gave me the confidence to tackle this job. Two things not shown 1) the left hand mounting has no screw but it does need to sit in a slot correctly - bit of jiggling and mirror is useful, 2) my Honeywell V4043H1056 had torx10 screws not posidrives. Apart from that, much easier job than I expected. Thanks again.
All true. They used to have two screws now you just jiggle them in.
just did this on my boiler, cost £24 for the motor from screwfix plus £4 for some grease to daub on the cog. The only awkward bit was getting to the screw! Thanks for the video :)
Blimey those synchrom motors have gone up in price
@@SkillBuilder Still a lot cheaper than a gas man! :)
You were done. Only £15 two years later from a plumber's merchant.
You're a legend, you saved me a lot of money, thank you so much!
Fabulous! Neat trick manually opening the valve too.
Thank you so very much for your very clear instructions. This fixed my issue and wasn't too hard to do and only cost about $30!
I just had to replace it again 3 years later, these motors seem to not last lobe. But thanks to you I replaced it for the cost of the motor $42 dollars here in New York!
saved me a small fortune, thank you.
Super tip Rodger , having untold problems with water heating coupled with emersion problems and very small repair budget .
Perhaps some light at the end of the tunnel now !
Thanks man !
Excellent comprehensive video and a real money saver. Many thanks. Pay extra special attention to isolating the electrical power supply..as Roger says!
Brilliant tutorial. Very clear. Thank you so much.
brilliant video. my unvented cylinder was not heating water although the boiler was working. what you described is exactly what my valve looks like. a £10 part next day from amazon sorted it! cheers i reckon a plumber would have been lookin at over £100 to sort that
A very informative video, I suspect this is the fault that’s causing her radiators to heat up when CH switched off. I can now change the motor after ensuring the 3 way valve isn’t jammed . Hopefully it will work, if not I’ll proceed to draining the system and fitting a new valve body and actuator
Many Thanks, hopefully it will save her a plumbers call out and labour charge which as a retiree she simply can’t afford
watching this in 2024. really helpful to understand how the motor can be repaired. thank you
Dirty hands -- always a tell tale sign of a hardworking and trustworthy technician.
Unless it's a really old Honeywell valve, you can change the head without draining down. Also the boiler will not fire up just by
locking the leaver open. The manual operation is for filling and draining the system. If the lever is locked over, the boiler will
operate if the other valve is calling for heat or hot water.
Brilliant explanation. Many thanks.
Thank you so much for this brilliant video. I am a women in my 60s and after watching his I now feel confident to sort my heating out. I now that you make it look easy but the full explanation and reasoning behind why I have to follow the safe and sensible steps have helped me no end. I have subscribed.
Thank you and welcome to Skill Builder
Thanks for another great video its given an understanding of how the valve works, I have slightly different problem my central heating pump is running even when hot water or heating not on. I moved the cable going into the motorised valve and the pump stopped immediately. Not sure what the problem is but appears to be to do with that valve. Thanks again
Goodness, you are a great teacher! I'll play with my motorised valve tomorrow and see if it looks similar to yours. If it does, I will order the syncron motor, and fingers crossed that will be the end of my troubles ;) Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Brilliant ! thank you for your advice Roger.
Thanks so much, much cheaper to change the motor instead of the whole head, would never have known.
What a great explanation, no heating at the moment so trying this. Thank you very much 👍
Let us hope it works, if not let us know and we will try and help roger@skillbuilder.uk
@@SkillBuilder Very strange when we swapped the functioning motor from water to heating. The motor spun around as soon as we switched power back on even though we hadn't switched the central heating on. This didn't happen when same motor was on the hot water. It worked normally. Does that indicate it's the programmer?
great vid.. my plumber (unfortunately now retired) said I would be able to do this myself.. scared stiff because I thought you needed to turn the water off! ...
you are a great teacher a natural.
You always explain things so well. Thank you. How do you know if the spindle is the fault. It still turns but not sure how much it should turn
Thanks so much for this - just sorted mine for £9.65 off Amazon!
Thanks for this useful video Roger!
Thanks for the video... you doing a great job for the society..👍
Thanks for video. Good explanation. Have a Honeywell value that gets mighty hot when in use. I understand that how water is flowing through it but it seems hot. May just purchase a new motor and replace. Using a Tadoo system as well. High recommend as a heading controller..
They are hot when in use. Try turning the boiler off and running the system with no heat. If the valve is warm there is a problem but my guess is that it is the hot water rather than the motor. Those synchron motors don't produce much heat.
I just saved £200 because of this video. Thank you so much!
Good stuff, don't spend it on Class A drugs, drink or loose women.
Oops, too late!
Brilliant information, sorted within the hour of watching this video, keep up the great work
Glad it helped
Great work! Thanks Roger.
Thanks for the excellent video Roger. Very informative. I installed a 3 port Honeywell in my heating 17 years ago. It replaced a different make. Its playing up now and I am grateful of the reminder of its internals as I recall the wiring up was tricky. Its actually a Honeywell 3 port valve and its letting by to the CH circuit in mid Summer. Not sure if the motor or the ball within it is to blame. However I have turned off each radiator and that's stopped it. Who can afford the waste of energy let alone extra live with the extra heat?
As a heating engineer, I can assure you, you will not get another 17 years out of another Honeywell valve now. I don't know what is up with their QC but their valves are now very poor, constant call backs to failed valves after months or just weeks in which I refuse to now fit their valves. Such a disappointment. Not telling you where to spend your money however as a industry professional I would go with another brand 👍 As for your issue with it bypassing, it's more than likely the ball inside the valve not shutting or seating properly, you can buy just the body part of your valve but will require draining down. Hope this helps👍
This is a great insight, Roger. Thanks for sharing. Your videos are really useful.
Great video, many thanks.
I just wondered if this box/valve gets hot when heating is on? I have an oil boiler system. You made it look really easy to change so i might just have a go myself 😊 thanks.
Yes it does get hot but not that hot.
@@SkillBuilder oh thank you for replying 😊 it's not scalding hot, thank goodness so I'm hoping it's ok and not going to set on fire. Mind you it's an old system. I think this has made me decide to look into getting the whole radiator system replaced, although I know it will cost a bomb 😔 😁 thanks again 👍
Splendid advice very well presented thankyou
Thanks mate sorted the heating out great vid. Cheers !!
Thanks very much Roger - followed your video & fixed the faulty heating saving me ££££££s!
Brilliant video thank you, can you tell me how to isolate the power supply to the head without having to turn the power off to the entire house please ? Thanks.
Thank you for your video, it was very useful
Best breakdown ever, zone valve fault! :) I haven't got DHW but my heating is working lol
7:18 The man's a saint. Everything I wanted to know about that lever. I couldn't find it explicitly stated anywhere, even in the installation and specs PDF's (Not Honeywell, but Motortrol Valves model, but same principle).what that lever does.
Great video as always comprehensive
Thanks well presented video Very clear and easy to understand.
Extremely useful!!! Informative!
Excellent video. One question: if the motor in the valve has blown does that stop the boiler from switching on too? (My boiler is ok for CH)
nice one you explain with your open heart thanks a lot
Brilliant video. Thank you!
Well explained 👏
Awesome video. Really clearly explained. Thank you
Thank you Giles, nice to hear
Brilliant as always
If you have a '3 way' valve, it is sometimes the microswitch that goes and not the motor. You can get the complete unit (the silver box) and swap it with just two screws. Again, no draining required. You have to trace the cable back to the junction box, where there are usually five wires. The colour code seems universal. Swap the wires one at a time and you should not get into trouble. Power off of course!
Thanks for the video save me 300 British pound that I was quoted by a company to change the valve and I just bought the motor for 19.99 and fitted myself in 10 min and now we have heating in the house
Excellent!
Very informative 👍👏
Haha My recent experience exactly, Plumber says get electrician and vs vs. Thanks Great help that.