How to fix a Honeywell Zone Valve. Part number: V8043E1012 + V8043E1061
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- Опубликовано: 12 фев 2020
- How to fix a Honeywell Zone Valve - Part number: V8043E1012 + V8043E1061
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Great video
3 years later. What an excellent informative video. Thanks from the UK.
TRULY , a fantastic explanation about a zone valve. Excellent.
Terrific instructions, and thanks so much for taking it apart to show us how its assembled and how it works, helps me to diy much better!
Very informative, getting the new unit seated with moving the lever was KEY....Thank You !
Thank you for watching!
Excellent vid on fixing a Honeywell Zone Value in detail.
One of the best videos explaining how a zone valve works and how to repair. Excellent.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video. When one of our zones stopped heating today a heating company quoted me $1,200 and said they would need to replace the entire valve. Using your video, I was able to confirm the problem was just in the motor and was able to find a replacement and just use the motor section of the valve to fix the problem for about $100.
That’s awesome!!! I am glad I was able to help!
$1200, sad but there are seniors that have no choice but to pay that.
@@furnacetech2581 several unscrupulous contractors quoted me 10K for replacing the entire boiler knowing that I suspected it was the valve and possible the circulation pump. Still they wanted to replace the entire boiler.
I’m happy guy now thanks to this video
Mine lever is not able to slide to manual open position? Any idea?
1,200$ Good lord. Thats about a full days worth of work with the part included 😂
Lifesaver video. I was so frustrated not being able to get the darn box back onto the valve, but you showed me the trick using the manual lever and it worked. Thanks.
I am happy it helped! Thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting this video. It saved me $9.5K from unscrupulous contractors that wanted to change the entire boiler system. Of course I went from a troubleshooting process, including the replacement of the circulation pump and almost replacing the IBC
That’s awesome news! I am happy the videos were helpful!
@@furnacetech2581 your video very detail oriented. Thanks 🙏 so much
this video was PERFECT for helping me troubleshoot my honeywell zone valve problem, also gave me the confidence to do it myself. just got everything put together and tested and back to normal operations in plenty of time for winter. thanks for making this video!
Thank you. Ive watched dozens of these but yours is the only one that gave a comprehensive breakdown for the trouble shooting I needed. Thank you sir🙏
Thank you for watching!
Thanks. This helped us diagnose and replace a bad power head on one of our zone valves of this type.
This a great video for that 'headache' thing. Thank you.
Thanks man! Woke up to a cold house and fortunately had a spare zone valve - fixed it over lunch
That’s awesome! Thanks for watching the videos!
Hard to find videos like this
👍👍👍
Don't forget that when you're working on these valves, they are installed and in a vertical position. I use a dab of plumber's grease on the o-ring to hold it in position while assembling the valve.
This was a great video, very informative. Thanks
Very helpful video, thank you! Like another viewer, I now think I can fix my defective valve myself. ✅☺️
Thanks for the video, was able to replace a bad zone valve and get the hot water running again (indirect hot water heater). Wife is happy!
That’s is awesome! Great job!!! Thanks for watching
Very informative. Thank you.
THANK YOU so much !! Your video saved me $$$. It helped me solve my heater problem
That’s awesome! Thank You for watching the videos!
Thanks.was curious on what's inside a zone valve especially inside the pipe part. Great info.
It's just hollow with one side having a flat spot for the rubber ball to seat and shut off flow.
Thanks bud, I have a leaky one. Hope it’s just the o ring
Great video. Exactly what I needed to see
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. It helped in troubleshooting my system.
Thank you for watching!
Hey I had some metal pinging sound and so I removed the motor cover and bingo the little wheel inside is making the sound ! I just realized the zone valve is stuck closed ... I will have it replaced tonight.... thanks for the informative video..👍
You are welcome
so helpful!
Thanks for the very good video ... not a plumber and have 3 zone valvues. The last maintenance person who came to do maintenacnce said one was bad. If you ever plan more videos ... how to tell if a value is working or not would be good and also I believe my system has old values that require boiler to be drained but newer ones once install would eliminat that pain problem. Again thanks ...
Thanks for the feedback! I will plan on making another video to help diagnose bad zone valves.
Not all zone valves are installed with isolation valves to ease maintenance and repair.
Excellent your video teach a lot for me.. how top actuator works and it’s assembly. Thank you.
Thank you! I am happy it helped!
Great video and lots of good tips, thank you! You're helping me understand and troubleshoot my hot water heating system.
The way I understand it, the motor is energized the whole time the thermostat contacts are closed and it's still calling for heat.
My odd question is, what stops the motor from trying to keep pushing the valve open? I took the motor cover off like you did and watched the action of it all - it appears that when it gets to the end switch / valve fully open position, the motor simply doesn't have enough power to keep trying to turn and just stops. I suppose the power going to the motor, even though not actually turning the motor, is simply holding the valve in the open position with the electromagnetic force of the motor being energized, because otherwise, without power, the return spring would take over and close the valve. It seems like still having power to it without it turning would cause problems, but must be it doesn't?
the motor stays energized the whole time its calling for heat. Two reasons I find which can cause the end switch to not make are 1) weak motor 2) valve not moving free.
Hi Regarding the water that comes to the system once it is filled should i close the valve and open it once a year so not allowing more water or open it little bit or keep it open al the way and leave it Thanks
Thank you
Very helpful
Thanks for the video. In my case, the red wires from the end switch are not used and are cut off. I used them to diagnose the opening and closing of the valve. At first I found that the resistance between the two red wires was always 0, whether the voltage was being sent to the zone valve or not. I then gave the front of the motor cover a few good taps and all of a sudden I could hear it unwind and the end switch opened back up. For now the zone valve is working properly again. Using the end switch seems like a good way to troubleshoot if your zone valve is sticking.
Great point. If the valve is driving all the way open and closed, the end switch will make and break contact. This will tell you if your valve is getting stuck for sure. Thank you for sharing!
Wow been changing stuff like crazy saw ur post hit my zone valve and it freed up thnx mate
Hi. Great job that you do. I have this problem that when I switch on the hot water from the programmer, the radiator also heats up. I have this Ideal classic boiler system that has a tightly located motor z ok ne valve. It seems I may have to detach it from the two plumbing apertures. What do you suggest?
Does the radiator which is getting hot when you call for hot water have a separate zone valve? That zone valve may be leaking by and allowing fluid to flow when it's not calling. If so, you may need to replace it.
The miracle of utube
Thanks
You can find just about everything on youtube! Thanks for watching
Thanks for this!
I've got a 3 zone system using honeywell 7817's. One zone, the return is cold. The motor works, the contact closes and engaged the recirc and burner. I've purged the system.
Should me next step be swapping out the valve? Because I suspect it's just not opening. Thanks.
No, I would remove the power head and manually open the valve. If this does not work then you may have a frozen pipe.
@@furnacetech2581 sir I have 3 way zone and my motor turns the stem but hot water in not going into my air handler. The tech said I need to replace a new valve as he thinks it is stuck:( I’m waiting on a quote. I’m wondering if I can buy the ball parts assuming that’s it. Also, you said the pipe may be frozen…what does frozen mean? I’m loving your content and just subscribed.
Great video. I have a situation where my pump is always running. There's only one zone valve and a thermostat. The zone valve is open even when turning down the temperature on the T-stat. I can move the manual lever back and forth on the valve quite easily. I'm just wondering if the problem is more likely to be with the T-stat rather than the valve or are the valves problematic and likely to stick in the open position? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The zone valves can get stuck in the open position. Verify power is turned off when the tstat is turned off and then you can remove the zone valve cover to expose the motor and gears. You can take a small screwdriver and push the valve closed. Very important that you do not attempt this with power applied.
You can also unscrew the power head from the zone valve body to check and see if the valve is sticking.
@@furnacetech2581 Thank you! I'll try that.
Thanks for a great video. Have a two zones. One of the Zone Valves is not opening. These are Honeywell valves. Called a repair guy who needs the part number on the valve. Looked every where that is easily accessible by opening the cover but no luck! Could you suggest how to find a proper replacement. Thanks a lot.
If your zone valve has a lever to open it, then you have a normally closed zone valve. Next you can check the power being supplied to the valve.
This is how I would determine what is installed.
The links in description of this video will take you to a 24vac NC valve
I think If you look on my zone valve video you can see where the zone valve part number is located
I hope this help...
Great video! Thanks! If my manual lever has no resistance at all is it safe to say the internal ball is not turning?
If there is no resistance on the lever then the valve is open.
Are you in Anchorage? I have six of these at my apartment building, and I've had to have 14 motors replaced in 2 years. Either failure to open or failure to close. The plumber only hooks up the two yellow wires, leaves the red ones disconnected. Could that cause problems?
The red wires are used if the controls need to know when the valve is calling. I would check the valve body if it’s moving freely because if not, the motor may be working too hard and failing. I hope this helps! I am located in Fairbanks and North Pole!
nice video do u have a video how to flash the same system please ttanks
I'm curious if have 5 zones everything in 4 work fine the 5th is my garage it is always calling for heat even when the tstat is off. If the zone valve is set to auto but I'm curious if it is somehow stuck to open would that be why the zone is always calling for heat?
Yes, it could be stuck open for sure! If there is no power going to the zone valve, you can remove the powerhead and check it. The valve body stem could be stuck too so try rotating the stem too!
I have a question, we have a oil burning radiant heating system and our zone 3 is Stuck on like 80 degrees and constantly burning our oil up so we manually shut it off. We changed the old thermostat out so I know it’s not the thermostat. Should we change the valve or could this be an electrical issue?
Here is how I would test it.
First turn up the thermostat and use a voltage meter to check for 24volts on the two yellow wires at the zone valve.
You should have 24vac.
And valve should be open
Check the slider on the powerhead and see if it goes back and forth easily.
Next turn thermostat all the way down or off. The voltage should go down to 0vac
The lever on the powerhead should be to one side and not slide over without effort.
If the valve is still open at this point, it’s stuck open.
You can remove the powerhead and grab the valve stem on the valve body and see if it turns freely or if it stuck.
At this point you can replace the faulty parts you find bad
I hope this helps
How often is it just the motor vs seized up internals? I currently have a lady that is constantly heating and usually we replace the whole head. I wonder if I can remove just the motor and manually close the valve? We take care of a large 4 story apartment building and the tenants usually need to wait until fall time when we bring the whole building down to make repairs.
If you remove the powerhead you can open and close the valve somewhat. You need the powerhead spring tension to close it off 100%
Some of these valves can last a long time but some don’t. Maybe check to see if your trouble is in the valve body valve being too hard to turn and the spring tension of the powerhead not being able to close it off.
@@furnacetech2581 thanks much! I think the reason my company wants us to replace the entire head with ball is to warranty it and that's why they always taught me to do that. But if I can stop someone from getting constant hear until boilers are shut down in May by doing this, I'm sure they'd appreciate that.
I appreciate the quick reply!
Thanks for the detailed video for troubleshooting. How much water will come after I have shut off the valve to the boiler and remove the ball valve cover? Thanks
That will depend on where the isolation valves are located. If you have two valves right at the zone valve needing to be replaced, you may get a handful of water. If you only have one isolation valve, then you may need to drain most of the system before the fluid stops leaking. That could be multiple 5 gal buckets. I hope this helps.
Also, don’t forget to shut off the makeup water and rest for glycol in the system.
Thanks for this video! My problem is I cant not move that level freely and it seems like stuck in the middle while I can still feel the motor is hot. What do you think could cause the problem? Do I have to call the strata to replace the whole thing? Thanks
I would remove the powerhead off the valve body and check if the valve is stuck. If it’s stuck, then the internal valve parts need to be replaced. They sell rebuild kits. You can check this video’s description for a parts link if you have the ability to do it yourself!
Thanks!@@furnacetech2581
As soon as I turn on the boiler there is a call for heat, even though the heating is off at the program box. The hot water works normally just the heating is messed up. Do u think just replacing the metal box would work to fix the heat so it could be called when needed?
The first thing I would check is the end switch. If the end switch is closed, then the boiler will get a signal to run the pump. Some boilers will turn on just to maintain minimum temp.
Hi thanks for the wideo, I got problems When valve 3 port is set to central heating it is all the time a hot motor and there is a soft noise coming from it,
this is good? How do I change to heating water everything is ok
I don't think soft noise is anything to worry about as long as it's still driving open and closed without getting stuck. I will try and make a video with a 3 port valve in the future so that may help.
Does the motor consume power after the end switch is activated. In other words, is motor under full load, held stopped by the end switch, while power is applied (and wasted) to the motor? Thanks for the video!
Never mind. I see you answer this question a couple of posts below.
I have just replaced my Honeywell motor head. I must have an older style as there are no screws holding it to the valve body. It is only held on with a wire clip. The issue I’m having is that when the thermostat calls for heat the motor head comes disengaged and does not open the valve. If i put pressure on the motor head towards the valve body it will engage properly.
I am sorry for the late response. I would probably replace the zone valve unless you find another solution
We have a zone that seems to be staying on. From what I see, that would point to the rubber ball not sealing well. We have a lot of hard water in our area, so it has probably eroded it. I don't suppose you can just buy and replace the rubber ball?
I have never tried to buy just the ball inside the valve body!
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks. They probably don't sell just that sub-assembly. It wouldn't be worthwhile. The rubber is a "wear" part, and, like the momentary "n" switch, is typically where stuff like this fails. Everything else looks like it would survive a direct hit from a 50 cal... so to speak. The motor is brushless, but probably has some bearing that wears away too.
Thanks again. Channels like yours are what makes Y0utube worth watching :-)
I started changing 3 zone valves and discovered the black plastic bushing that goes through the center of the
Power head are all broken or worn. Can you tell me where I can buy 3 new ones. I don’t want to have to replace the complete power heads.
I am not sure where to purchase just that part. I normally replace the gasket, powerhead or valve assembly. Maybe check with a local supply house.
I've a buffer thermal storage tank. I need to turn on a load when top stat drops to 45c and not turn off until bottom stat reaches 50c. Can anyone tell me what device I need to do this? tia
hi, would you have the part number for the end switch on the 1012 vavle...? tia
I am sorry I do not have that part number. Normally when this switch goes bad, I have replaced the powerhead. As a technician it’s not cost effective to rebuild some of the small parts inside of the zone valves.
@@furnacetech2581 tnx... i bought a new unit; i'll swap the powerhead
I have two zones where a relay that is common to both zones activates when either end switch is closed. On one zone, the relay chatters a bit when the end switch closed. The system still functions okay, but last year the relay didn't chatter at all. What could be going on in the zone valve to cause a bit of chatter when the end switch closes?
The end switch may not be making a good connection inside. Could be going bad. The end switch does not consume any power, it just provides a connection to signal the valve is open or closed.
I hope this help!
@@furnacetech2581 Thank you. That definitely helps! I have a spare zone valve head on order just in case. $70, not cheap, but no heat is worse.
Hi what type of screws holds the motorized valve to the frame i tried a philips but i cannot get really tight.
I normally use a flat head
Thanks it was difficult to see flat worked great.
Thanks...I just changed the powerhead on one of these. One thing you did not address. With the cap on, there are two red leads and two yellow leads coming out of the box, with no way to distinguish which is which. I painstakingly took the cover off and traced each lead and installed to match the polarity of the defective one I replaced. Was this necessary? Are the two reds interchangeable? Are the two yellows interchangeable? Thanks.
Yes, the two reds go to the end switch and the yellow go to the motor. It does not matter which is power in and out.
Thank you for sharing!
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks...great info!
We have replaced the motors. But how do you change out the valve? Especially if it goes out in winter. What needs to be turned off etc?
Hello, every system is different. It could be as easy as turning off power and isolating valves on both sides of the zone valve. But, not all systems have isolation valves on both sides of the valve. If not, you will have to find the supply line and return line to isolate it.
You will also want to turn off the make up water and verify if you have glycol or not. If you drain a bunch of fluid, you will need to pump the glycol back into the system.
My Honeywell zone valve V8043E1012 motorized valve needs to replaced. Amazon have very same two valve. One is V8043E1012 electric zone valve, another one is V8043E1012 3/4” sweat zone valve ( connection = 18” leads), which one should I buy?
I would match it to your system. If you look on the side of one of the valves it will say the size of the pipe. Most heating zones I work on are 3/4" with the 18" leads. I hope this helps!
Is there a way I can get a stuck open valve manually closed until I get a new one?
Yes, there are a couple ways. Turn the thermostat off in that space, then remove the zone valve cover and take a screwdriver to see if you can move the linkage to free it. The spring should drive it closed. The other way is to turn off the thermostat in that zone and then close off one of the valves on that zone. I hope this helps!
Hi
I have both valves in manual and still the boiler is still not heating the radiators.
The boiler is fine. I'm getting hot water through taps and shower.
What can be the issue?
Thanks
Honeywell zone valves don’t engage the end switch in manual so the boiler will not turn on the pump unless the thermostat is calling and opening the valve all the way. Could be a number of things. Bad transformer, frozen pipe, bad aqua stat, bad pump, bad thermostat. Why are you having to manually open multiple valves? So, you would need to check to make sure the thermostat is calling and the valve is getting power. Then, check if the pump is working and the system pressure. Start there
Hope this helps
Thanks for the video breaking down the components of this valve. Until I discovered your video I assumed that if anything went wrong with the valve the entire unit would need to be removed and replaced. So nice to realize Honeywell designed these with component replacement parts to prevent removing the entire valve at great cost to the home owner for a house call.
You mentioned in comments that you have seen a LOT of "frozen" valves. I believe that is my problem since the thermostat calls for heat, the motor gets hot to touch, but the valve does not move open. And the Manual lever does not move the valve either.
My question: Since kits for the guts are available i would suspect that nothing goes wrong with the actual interior of the body that would prevent a new ball and stem assembly from seating properly and working OK. Have you ever encountered a frozen valve situation where you HAD to sweat out the entire valve and replace the entire kit and kaboodle? I'm just hoping replacing the guts will make this problem disappear without further complications. BTW, my valves are horizontal and all 3 have been in service for 26 years before this one had a problem.
I would start with the valve guts only. I have had to change everything when there was a leak which caused excessive damage over time
Thanks for the quick response. I found a good deal on a complete valve assembly on eBay so when that arrives I'll have the essence of all 3 kits, just in case the motor or powerhead has issues too. You don't know how relieved I am not to get out the acetylene torch and test my sweat soldering skills in very confined spaces. Whew! Knock on wood.
Is there a way to loosen up or free up the sticking ball valve? WD40, maybe?
I have always replaced valves which begin sticking. In my spot or position being a business it’s not worth having any trouble or risking a call back. Plus the cost for me to repair the sticking valve vs replacing it seems to be better to simply change it.
I hope this helps with the answer.
Good luck if you attempt to work it free.
Hi could you tell me what it cost to diagnose a boiler overheating the house and change this power head when it and a relay is found to be the problem?
It should not take more that an hour to diagnose and anywhere from 30 mins to 1.5 hrs to complete. This range depending on if the system needs to be drained and air removed.
It’s a simple job!
if i want to change only the top head, should the main valves be shut off?
If you want to change the powerhead with the motor and wires, you don’t need to turn off any valves. But if you are trying to replace the top of the valve section below the powerhead then yes the valves need to be isolated and you will need to catch fluid which may leak out.
I hope this helps!
@@furnacetech2581 ok...thank u...
How often does the valve itself go bad? I have a bad zone valve, and taking the power unit off and turning the knob by hand (while having another zone active) does not seem to allow water to pass thru. I assume either the ball broke off and is jamming inside the valve or is stuck somewhere in the heating system.
There is always a possibility that it’s frozen too! I have only found one valve in 20+ years which had a broken ball inside. Usually the issues are a bad end switch, stuck or sticking valve stem, leaking valve body gasket or malfunctioning gearing or a bad power head motor.
As for how long do they last. Well I have them go bad in a year and last up to 10+ yrs
I have seen many frozen lines.
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks for the really quick reply! upon further investigation it seems like the bleed valve is actually working (this one was just replaced a little over a year ago) and there's either a clog or an airlock somewhere (the upstairs has had a nice water feature sound effect for awhile now). Still haven't found the upstairs bleed valve though.
@@googlemyharbl one way to push the air through is to close off all the other zones so they do not get flow and force all the flow through the one which is not flowing. If it does not flow then try opening and closing one of the other zones really fast to get the system to push fluid by burping it. This might help.
*zone valve is actually working
can i just leave zone valve head off and open up with that little handle so its getting hot water all the time when the other two zones call for heat?
Yes! It will heat if you manually open the valve!
The problem I have is that my radiators still remain ON all the time, even when the timer is switched to OFF. The motor head is Honeywell V4043H1106. Apparently the valve is always in the OPEN position to let hot water through to the radiators. The lever on the side is always floppy when the system is running so the valve is not closing. What could be the fix solution?
If you disconnect your timer and the valve closes then you have a bad timer. That's where I would start. Make sure to use a meter to make sure the control power is off before disconnecting. Then, turn power back on to the controls and verify the zone valves position. With the timer disconnected the zone valve should return to it normally closed position. If the valve is still open then the zone valve could be stuck in the open position. I hope this helps!
Why is it just for hot water could we not put this on a cold water system??
Howdy. Sorry for the novel, no one to ask. This might sound dumb but is it often better to purchase a complete V8043E1012 just replace the power head and rubber ball valve section so I can leave the tubing connected without having to sweat in the back section? I'm guilty of not having experience with HVAC and hydronics so I'm trying to figure this out. Electronics, IT and engines I've worked with before and while a totally different field, I think I have mechanical aptitude to pull this off if I ask questions and watch videos. House boiler is original from 1994 along with all the polybutelene (PB) tubing and that's the area I'm trying to avoid disturbing at this point in time. I am on the website of a major supplier and I'm looking into PEX to PB tubing conversion fittings and all that stuff but in reality I just need to hold off on a complete system rebuild for now. Winter of course but most of the time I work overseas and don't want to get started in a boiler remodel unless I have to.
Master bedroom is constant hot even with thermostat shut off. Window open an 1" and a fan to get the room down to 80 degrees. Boiler cycles a lot. Basement slab has tubes and the main floor has tubes in gypsum to give some mass. Water around 80 deg (thermostats set to 70. I need to break out my temp scanner and do some readings. Upstairs is all tube and fin, boiler set at 170 and uses mixing valves that are broken but the house still heats. So much I want to replace including a new boiler. Time or money I guess, neither shall they meet at the same time. Wish I could show someone the system for ideas but to have a pro take care of this would wipe me out so I need to gear up and figure it out. House is 6 bedroom/ 3860 sq ft but fuel costs haven't been too bad over the years even with bad parts. Normal annual purge has been about it. I want to remove the air scoop and install the Spirovent with a new expansion tank (Model 110 Fill trol with built in pressure regulator) below the air scrubber. Water supply comes in, reduced to 13 psi+- but not sure if I should just get a regular Exp tank and mount my own regulator. Current valve and tank aren't doing the job, safety valve will sometimes pop but usually because I'm an idiot and have used it a few times to burp the system. I pressurize with a hose from the HW Storage tank to the drain of the boiler to get pressure to 15 psi. Boiler tech has left me notes over the years and he thinks the line from the expansion tank to the water supply is plugged. Bought the Spirovent a few years ago, just need to get it mounted which means sweating the primary pump to a different location so both the scrubber and pump are level and not so close together. Video says I need 18" from the scrubber to the pump, trying to get close to that. One primary pump which feeds the 170* water to upstairs and then feeds to the lower temp zone valves. I see newer designed systems and mine is a wreck. Almost to the point of sell the place, let someone else deal with it. I'm just being stubborn and want to learn. TIA, trying to order up parts tomorrow in case I get pulled overseas soon. Cheers.
It's not a dumb question. yes, you can buy the whole valve and then replace the power head and what I call the valve guts. or you can buy then seperate. I buy the complete valves because it makes it easy for me to have complete parts if needed. I am not sure if you know how to check your expansion tank pressure or not but it sounds like it may be giving you some trouble.
1) turn off power
2) turn off makeup water
3) isolate all zones (so you don't drain any unneeded areas)
4) drain boiler pressure to 0 psi (note: use bucket if you have glycol)
5) test pressure on tank (factory set @12psi) if bad replace
6) refill system (if you drained glycol, pump it back into system) or open makeup water if glycol is not needed. (sounds like your system needs glycol due to having floor heat.
7) open all zones
8) turn power back on and watch system come back up to temp and keep an eye on your system pressure making sure you do not exceed safety valve pressure. (30psi).
Be very careful if attempting to do this yourself
I hope this helps!
good luck
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks so much for explaining everything so well. My valve has no tension on it and stays open. Bad power head?
@@Roadstir it could mean two things.
1st - it could mean it’s calling for heat and the valve is open.
2nd - your valve could be stuck in the open position
If the zone valve is getting power it should open. Verify the tstat is calling or if it’s bad. If you are not getting power and the valve is stuck in the open position you may need to replace the power head or the valve guts or both. I hope this help!
Hi. You fixed our boiler before not sure if you remember. I have a question, the switch end in the back is stuck open and making noise. Is this something to worry about or it’s time for me to call you again? Lol
Thank You for reaching out! I do work on a lot of heating systems, sorry for not remembering about your system specifically. If your end switch is stuck open I would address it sooner than later. It could be the result of many different issue.
Hope this helps! If you remember my number, it’s probably best to text!
do i have to shut off power and water to change the motor head?
It’s always a good idea to turn off power so you don’t short out the wires and blow the transformer.
If you are just replacing the power head then no you should be ok with the water.
Hope this helps
@@furnacetech2581 thank you
Hi, My pipes are humming. Is it possible that the issue is in this valve? Thank you
It’s possible, you could turn off power to the zone valve to find out!
@@furnacetech2581 Thank you for your reply. Looks like the humming noise is in the pipe and not in the valve.
I removed my valve motor assembly. But my valve body doesn't have the plate with the 4 bolts. Does this mean my valve body is an older type?
There should be two flat head screws holding on the motor assembly in place. Once you remove them the motor assembly should separate and you should see 4 small screws/bolts holding the valve plate. If it does not, I am not sure what model you have
Not a gasket, but very helpful
Thanks for watching.
Can I replace it all except the brass, not really good at soldering.
Yes, you can!
Furnace Tech thank you, I’m going to GPS and replacing it today. Thank you!!!
Make sure to turn off power and close off any valves to remove the pressure from the system before removing the zone valve cover. Good luck!
Furnace Tech shoot I never told you, I got it done. Thanks a lot, seriously! Subbed
Be sure to take all the seals out before you sweat a zone valve so they don't melt.
A question to every one: how can we guarantee this kind of valve will not be leaking when we are not at home, If not at home and if this starts leaking especially in high rise building this will be huge massive damage to the property. Please respond. Thanks all!
There is no guarantee it will not leak but they do start showing signs of a leak around the edges when there is a problem.
Volume too low! I watched on my MacBookPro 17" laptop with volume maxed out and I could still barely hear you. Since I can hear other YT videos just fine I have to conclude that you did not have your mic turned up far enough.
Sorry about the sound. I will work on that!
Fine if you are just playing with parts. How to install ?? Wiring, solder, purge etc. Just another video to protect plumbers from do it yourself homeowners.
I wish there was a better quality replacement for these piece of shit valves. Too bad Grundfos doesn't make a drop in replacement actuator.
These used to have a nice wide brass gear rack but now they have a thin stamped steel rack that strips out in a few years. Piece of junk. Made just as damn cheap as possible.
When I put my hand on the top of the motor on the control value, it is hot. Is that suppose to be hot all the time? I have two control values close to each other in my system, so when doing the same and checking the other control value ( remove cover and feel top of electric motor) that one too is hot.)
the water in the system is cold due to being shut down. Just wondering if the motors on them are suppose to operate full time and be hot?
That would depend if the zone valve is a normally closed or open valve. Anytime is has power, it could be hot or warm to the touch!
Thank you