How the Honeywell zone valve works. Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 9 апр 2013
- This one covers the construction of the Honeywell zone valve. The valve is disassembled to show the interior and wiring is discussed.
This video is part of the heating and cooling series of training videos made to accompany my websites: www.graycoolingman.com and www.grayfurnaceman.com to pass on what I have learned in many years of service and repair. If you have suggestions or comments they are welcome.
If you are a homeowner looking to repair your own appliance, understand that the voltages can be lethal, the fuels are highly flammable and high pressures are used. Know your limits. 
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Thanks for this! My apartment complex has an inept maintenance crew. Was able to get some heat flowing through my place after figuring out how this thing worked. This video saved me from freezing to death tonight.
Glad it helped.
GFM
Thanks for opening the actual valve to show the ball.
Gary you always do a nice job on your videos. Thanks !
Welcome
GFM
Thanks for the support.
GFM
I know nothing about this topic and needed to learn what was going on with my heat since the North East is just getting slammed right now! Your video was great and taught me the basics of how this works. I wanted to thank you for taking the time to post this information. I'll be checking out your other videos to learn some more shortly.
***** Thanks for the support.
GFM
It's great that you're sharing your knowledge and experience this way - thank you from London.
Thanks for the Video! - I just created a video called " What's inside a Honeywell Zone Valve"
I like to install these zone valves on the return piping because it's just a little cooler than the supply!
Sounds like a good idea to me.
GFM
Excellent video and explanation !
When I have set up an exhibition unit the rest of the videos will be coming. Thanks for the support.
GFM
I work in a hotel has an hvac tech and all the fan coils in the guest rooms have these zone valves. Theres a hot valve and chilled water valve that opens and close from the thermostat. Ive had replace them has old ones where worb out.
Fantastic explanation thanks
There easy to understand and replace. If you have space
Thanks once again, GFM!
Welcome
GFM
These are grate videos im a student an northwest comuinty college in Mississippi thank you for making them and keep it up
Hey Thanks so much for this!! I have a split hot water heater system in our apartment. If this valve is stuck in the manual open position just so we can get heat going will this cause the hot water to flow constantly through the air handler / coil even when desired temp is meg and the blower shuts off via the thermostat? They installed a new unit inside and out. Few days after I came home and was no longer getting cool air from ac. Shut off the hot water in the basement and the cool air came back.
I'm having a problem. Well, I've had this problem ever since buying my ranch house 6 years ago. I have a energy kinetics system 2000 unit, oil burning. originally controlled with a [two wire] mercury t-stat, and wouldn't turn off the [only] zone valve equipped for this house, when ever we set the t-stat to zero fir spring, and I found removing a wire powering the zone valve, closed the valve, of course. Every approaching cold season, I'd do the reverse, I'd plug the wire back into its original location, to power the zone valve. Begrudgingly, I've been doing it this way for at least four to five years. I had to replace the zone valve motor, this past Tuesday. I did have my system looked at by a tech doing the annual tune up, and it ran pretty well during the winter season. I had to change out the mercury t-stat, so I opted for the Honeywell RTH2510/2410 series thermostat. Even after doing so, everything ran smoothly, up until that following spring, when I turned off the heater via switch on this new T-stat and it wouldn't turn off the zone valve, heating up the house. So, I pulled that same wire out for the entire warm season, this is how I did everything for the next two years. Now the zone valve is not closing, even after running past the t-stat set point (between 62 and 70 deg) one time the temperature on the Tstat read 85 deg.! So, I'm forced to pull that same wire, powering that motor to close again. As it stands now, the furnace runs, and shuts off as it supposed to, but the zone valve remains open, continuously, I don't think it's receiving any signals from the t-stat, because, again, temperatures run past the set points programmed into the T-stat, and I can physically see the springs stretched throughout this whole process, never closing, until I pull that one zone valve wire powering the motor in it. I don't know by this comment, if it helps you, help me...I just figured I try
Just an FYI to anyone or yourself with the same problem...I was able to get this valve to work correctly by removing one of the servo return springs (the one on the side, not the top). It seems the servo motors they are now using are not strong enough to overcome the spring tension. Use of one spring alone was enough to return the servo back to the closed position easily. Thanks again for your help. -Mike
Ha! Thanks just did the same and now it works fine.
can i replace the head without draining the system? thanks
Good stuff! Thank you!!
Welcome
GFM
Nice video , I had a jammed zone valve replaced or should I say updated to the E1012 Honeywell the guy left the old body in but put the new guts and ball valve part In , I’m getting the hammer noise from my research the valve could be upsides down or closing to fast because the body was not replaced it’s impossible to install the wrong direction but I did read something about removing a return spring , any truth to this ... the valve that was removed was the exact one your showing
Very helpful, thank you!
Welcome
GFM
what is this.
If you are asking what the component is, it is an electric valve to control zones in a boiler system.
GFM
Your the Man Thank You..This girl appreciates your video, watched your video fix my issue in 5 min, what do you know loose wire behind thermostat, issue started a month after old thermostat broke. almost replace valve you saved me. Thank you again
That happens more often than you would think.
GFM
excellent technical teacher...
pei bossman Thanks for the support.
GFM
Am so glad I found this video -- and your channel. Have just subscribed. Recently replaced this very zone valve with your help (so thank you)! Wondering if I could pick your brain...Two of my zone valves, which govern hot water going to my bathroom & kitchen, are just fine. But came back from several weeks away to find the 3rd zone valve -- its spring-return mechanism, to be specific -- broken. I had left my thermostat at 74F non-stop from January through the month of June. I live in the upper midwest & weather was hot (90F+) for several weeks in May & June. Would normally not have been running the heat, but was away for several weeks & had forgotten to turn the thermostat down. Could leaving that zone valve open non-stop for so many months w/o a "breather" have stressed the spring to breaking point?
If the valve was made in the last approximately 20 years, yes. If it is very old, the power unit will not fit. Hope this helps.
GFM
Hi grayfurnaceman!
You have helped me with your excellent videos immensely! Thank you for posting all of your videos!
I need some help with a brand new Honeywell V8043 E1012 zone valve. I have a hot water boiler system with three of these pos valves (such junk - honeywell isnt what honeywell used to be) in my system. I bench tested the new valve and the servo motor is not reaching the end switch to energize the circulator pump. Is there a way to adjust the servo motor on these valves so that the motor is engaging the limit switch at the end of its travel?
Thanks in advance!
Kind Regards,
Mike
Michael DeStories If it does not move far enough I would replace it.
GFM
Thanks for the video. It does a good job of explaining the valve and motor assembly. However, I have a situation where the motor is fine, the control is wired properly, but when the thermostat call for heat the gear (i.e., the rack portion that operates the valve itself and contacts the microswitch) does not move unless I manually nudge it. Any suggestions on what to look for and do?
P.S. I am not biggest fan of the gearing system. On previous units I have had the gears strip and had the "rack" portion come loose where (a) it will no engage the pinion of (b) will move enough to engage the microswitch.
It probably is not the best design. The head is replaceable.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Yea, I know. I have replace it at least 6 times in 20 years.
I have an older Honeywell system with the cover plate showing 40000593-066 and a synchron motor 640 24v 353351-5-6-2-81 but none of the current models have numbers even remotely close but they look identical -how do I know what replacement parts to order. specifically if I don't need to change the actual valve will most Honeywell motor assemblies fit the valve?
This all depends on the age of the valve. If the valve is over about 25 years old, the power head assembly cannot be replaced with the new style. The power head is available for the new style. Hope this helps.
GFM
What museum did you get that valve out of. They look a little bit different now. And I would more refer to them as famous than infamous.
Daniel Curry This valve is the V4043E1003/U. It is still the most common valve used in the industry.
GFM
My motor is rusted and not hooked up anymore. Is it possible that the ball could have closed the valve? Can I put a wrench on it and turn it manually to make sure it's open?
You can remove the power unit and rotate the valve manually. It should turn opposite the water flow. Merry Christmas
GFM
Hi GFM and thanks for the video. My dilemma is I just installed two all new Power heads because the arms we're coming millimeters away from hitting the in switch but weren't. Now I'm having the exact same problem with the two brand new ones honeywell v8043e very frustrating and I probably didn't have to spend $170 today.
About all you can do is replace the entire valve.
GFM
grayfurnaceman oh I see thank you. Is that because the valves themselves become harder to move over time?
Yes they can. If you want to continue working on the valve, you can disassemble the valve (after removing the water from the boiler) and try to free it up. No guarantees there.
GFM
I seem to have a bad water hammering problem in the second story heating zone. How do you troubleshoot air hammering in a newly installed hot water boiler with 2 Honeywell Zone Valves on it? I feel I have all the air purged but still it hammers as the valve closes
There are a number of possibilities here. Because the boiler is new, you may have too much pump. If you can restrict flow that may help. Also, be sure the zone valves are installed in the right direction.
GFM
I will slow down the 3 speed pump to, the slowest setting. Can I close the gate valves part way? or is there a flow control valve that I can buy? I really appreciate your help, any suggestions will be put to good use. I have been fighting this thing for weeks.
You can restrict a gate valve.
GFM
Thanks, I am going to give it a try
great video, had a situation the other day with one of these. the end switch wasn't making so I replaced the head. No heat call again, checked it and the end switch again not making.???? Maybe it was made on a Friday??? replaced it with another. Now its working, but for how long??? I don't have that warm fuzzy feeling about this one. I'm now thinking the post is worn and unable to power thru to rotate this paddle to the end switch. Told the customer if it hangs up again we'll have to drain down the boiler change the guts on the valve body. Meanwhile, I rotated it back and forth several times and cleaned up the post area with a wire brush. Its just the paddle doesn't push the contact on the micro switch enough. I wish I could adjust that microswitch to contact earlier. Have you seen this before.
I have not. But I think your are right about the post.
GFM
Hi. Is there a part 2 to this video.
Many thanks
I have not gotten that done yet. I was planning to show how it is set up in a boiler system and haven't done it yet.
GFM
grayfurnaceman how will I know when you post it I am a subscriber do I get an email when you post a new video?
Is the valve normally open or normally closed? It should be normally open (by the springs) in my opinion so you still have heat if the power is down in a particular apartment or something is wrong with the thermostat.
Normally closed. The valve is held open by the motor against the spring.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thanks ,:) Those are different from what I have in my unit of appartment building. They are normally open. I had to connect the thermostat on R and Y in order to control it , or buy a special thermostat.
i am getting heat continuously with the valve sticking open and with no call from the thermostat , If i tap on the valve it closes. is there a way to check the spring return on the valve or if the ball inside the valve is sticking ?
Most sticking problems are due to the power head failing. It can be replaced without opening the valve itself. You can try lubricating the parts.
GFM
can i spray a lubricant on the mechanism ? WD40 or ?
Excellent Video! I am having a little problem with my zone valve (I think) The basement living room does not get any heat from the baseboards. I went to check on the valves (I'm extremely amateur) and felt above and below the valve for the basement LR. Big temp difference. I tried to switch it to manual open just until I get it replaced. It took me a while, but I figured out that I needed the tstat off for it to stay open. I think it opened, as I felt plenty of resistance when switching it to open.
I'm not sure if the pipes down here are frozen, but that might be the case? The boiler is in the garage upstairs and the pipes go straight from the garage down to the basement. It doesn't get below about 45 degrees up there. The baseboards are cold and there is no water flowing.
Any advice?
Jacob Turet sounds like your have a airlock in your system. try bleeding it open up a bleed valve air and water will probably shoot out leave open till only water
If your zone valve is open, it could be frozen or there could be air in the pipes. If there are any bleeders on the baseboards you can try opening the bleed valves.
GFM
grayfurnaceman that's what I just said lol
Great minds think alike.
GFM
I need to replace my honeywell zone valve and this valve looks identical , how i know which one to buy it ?
part number etc
You can try: Honeywell V8043E1012
GFM
Hi, I have 3 zones and with one zone the heat will not shut off for the baseboards. I replaced the thermostat for that zone and there was no change so I replaced the motorized valve. This did not help either. (The other two zones are working fine.) Any suggestions on what else it could be?
Have you replaced the valve also? If the pump has been replaced, it may have excessive pressure and will open the valve.
GFM
Thank you for your response. No, I have only replaced the motor for the valve. So you think I might need to replace the circulating pump?
I would first replace the valve body. The pump is not failing. If it puts out too much pressure, it could open the valve.
GFM
Hi I have a valve like the one in your video and I am not getting heat in that zone. I manually opened the lever and nothing. Also I took the cover off and noticed the motor was very hot. I would really appreciate any suggestions you might have. Thanks
If it does not flow when manually opened, I would think you have a problem in the water system. If you hear gurgling in the pipes, there is air in the system. It could air lock the zone. Also check the boiler pressure. For 1 story with basement, it should be 12#, 18# for 2 story. Hope this helps.
GFM
Hi its a split level home. The 2nd floor heats fine. Its the ground level with problem. I don't hear any gurgling. Don't know where to check the pressure the only meter goes up to 10. Thanks for taking the time to assist.
Carlos Soto My guess would be the valve is mechanically stuck. If you have mechanical skills, you can remove the power head and attempt to manually move the valve.
GFM
Thanks for this useful video. Is the motor supposed to turn as long as there is a call for heat? I expected it to stop when the end switch closed, but in my case, this is not happening, and the motor runs as long as there is a call for heat.
That's how they work. When the power goes off, a spring returns it to closed.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks. They get really hot during operation - during a typical cycle, one of these motors is going to be stalled out for most of the time it's powered, like a person holding a weight over their head. Seems really inefficient. I suppose they are designed to take it.
@@dangreenspan8412 It kind of does seem its inefficient. They are designed to take it.
GFM
This was my concern normally a motor would be powered down when stalled. Thanks for the info.
Hy I'm curious with the end switch. I understand it completes a circuit but does the circuit carry 24v like the motor head ? How can I diagnose if the end switch is good or bad ? Voltage or continuity?
I believe the contacts are rated for 24 volts only. If you place probes across the switch, then open the valve, The voltage should first read 24. Once the switch has opened, you should read 0. Hope this helps.
GFM
So when it's closed I should have 24 coming out of the end switch? Is that right ?
Well, yes and no. When testing a switch, I place the probes across the switch. If the switch is open and all other parts of the circuit are ok, you will show 24 volts. Once the switch closes, the meter will show 0.
GFM
Does the motor consume power after the end switch is activated. In other words, is motor under full load, held stopped by the end switch, while power is applied (and wasted) to the motor?
Less than .02 Amps .....so little energy consumption.
if I where to replace a zone valve would I drain the entire system or if possible, just the zone ? thanks for the video
It does depend on how the system is piped.
Unless the valve has shutoff valve at the inlet and outlet, you will probably have to drain it.
That said, are you sure you must replace the entire valve? If the problem is in the power head, it can be replaced without opening the system.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman yes it's stuck open. it has "2007 " scribbled on the cover. the p.o. had 5 of 6 valves replaced this is the last
@@motoputz3201 Sounds like a powerhead problem to me.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks for the help, I hired a heater co. to fix it
What if the manual lever is floppy? I have no heat in this zone and manual lever doesn't work. Floppy and not engaged in anything.
If it is floppy, that means the valve is open. I would be looking for air in the zone.
GFM
I have a question for you? I have a motorized valve 24 V for my water heater in my apartment, my themometer stays at 70 degrees farenheit and refuses to go higher than 80 degress farenheit. Once I turn it on do I pull that lever to manual and will that allow my thermometer to go to 80 degree farenheit? please please its so cold in the winter im freezing? I need help!
CasperthefriendlyGhost PeakAboo You can try opening it manually, but if you do, you will have to manually turn it off also. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Does the thermostate need to be on when I turn that lever to manual? Cause I turned off my thermostate then I moved that lever to manual but my room never went to 80 degrees farenheit? Does that mean the motorized zone valve is broken?
You can open it but that will not let the end switch turn on boiler .... I suspect something else is wrong... Rule of thumb ,,, never jump out anything on any heater i rather see you freeze than burn..
No heat in one zone. But, it seems there's not water in the copper pipe to the zone. The manual test lever is just flopping. What could be the problem here?
If it is the highest zone, the system pressure is probably too low. Lower level zone, air in the line.
GFM
Thanks for the informative video..... so if the valve opens but will not close ( unless I tap the motor and I see the gears moving) is the valve bad since it closes mechanically or is it the motor.... right now it will no longer close even if I tap it
Thx
Jeff
As a follow up I just tapped it and it closed but my question remains the same... thx again, Jeff
@@jeffreyfried9119 Almost certainly the motor assembly has failed.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thanks very much .... I didn’t want to buy a new motor cause I thought it was the spring mechanism not the motor
@@jeffreyfried9119 There are no parts available for the motor assembly. You have to change the entire assembly above the valve itself.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman gotcha, I though you just meant the motor.....if I remove the motor assembly will water spray out ?
Can u just buy the end switch instead the hole unit. I have a V8043E1079 Honeywell valve.
Thanks
You can buy the head assembly but not the switch.
GFM
Hi GFM. I have a 5 zone system and one of the zones is staying hot without the thermostat calling. Thermostat is good. I pulled the power head off and the valve stem moves without resistance, but even in the off position hot water flows to the zone. I'm thinking the ball inside the valve may have become distorted or broken. I do have antifreeze running since we're in the frozen tundra and get occasional power outages, and we have a 3 season room with a zone which would freeze pretty quickly. What are your thoughts? Likely or no?
I have the same situation with my valve where even though the spring is forcing the ball against the seat it's not fully blocking the flow of water . When I removed the plate and looked at the ball and see it looks okay . Possibly it's a slight misalignment of the ball to the seat when it's closed . I had an O-ring that was split and allowing some slight seepage , which is why I took it apart in the first place . I wasn't able to find a replacement O-ring from the plumbing stores or hardware stores that would match the diameter , so I ended up reusing the old one . I'm wondering if someone changed the O-ring to a thinner one, which would alter the position of the ball to the seat , preventing the ball from closing fully . There's some slight play allowable when remounting the plate onto the body so possibly that requires some realignment . If I had the valve off , I might be able to check and adjust for maximum closure , but it's still installed in the system so that's not possible . Considering they don't even have replacement O-rings available I would assume they won't have a replacement ball for rebuilding purposes if it turns out that is the cause for the water flowing through the closed valve.
I think I have the same problem. How did you get the plate off to see the ball? Also, did you have to drain your system?
is there a part 2 video?
I have not gotten around to that one. I guess I should get going, it has been a while.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for reading your comments! I did find this video helpful; what I am still not clear on is the proper way to wire the thermostat to the valve and the valves to the boiler (I have a Weil McClain HE II with 2 zone valves). Previous 'repairs' have left a spaghetti pile of multicolored wires spliced in a way I cannot fathom. I think I need to rewire the whole thing.
@@cgnicolis Ahh, the old spaghetti wiring trick. I have seen it many times. Unfortunately, there are several ways to wire the system. There is no way to know how it was done.
GFM
hi my honeywell zone valve failed in inside that brass housing cant open it any ideas why?? should i take head off and spray wd40 on that stem to free it up?? wont stay open even using wrench.
That's the motor. Its not considered repairable. The head assembly is replaceable without replacing the entire valve.
GFM
@@electriccar3253 its stuck inside the valve wondering if any trick to free it up inside valve?? the motor clicks when thremostat calls for heat so that may be bad also what im saying is cant open valve manually either tried wrench but wouldnt stay in position
The problem here is any failure in the motor/gearing module is usually not effectively repaired.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman whats time/labor estimate to replace whole assembly this includes sweat not threaded fittings ?i can get part on amazon for $95.00
First, you probably do not have to replace the entire valve. You can just replace the powerhead.
Labor could run between $200to $400. Replacing the entire valve involves opening the water system. I can't estimate that one as the type of system determines the labor time.
GFM
I would love to see a video of you explaining how Honeywell or WR 5 wire zone valves are wired and how to troubleshoot them electrically and how 3 wire thermostats work with them. Thanks Jeff
There are a number of ways to wire these controls. I will try to make a video on the most common options.
GFM
Im cool
Quick question 2 of my zones are stuck open and the spring wont return it so my heat stays on no matter what the thermostat is set to
If you remove power from the valve and it stays on, the head must be replaced.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman I do have a power switch to kill power to the boiler and valves and when I shut it off they still stay open
Sounds like the heads need to be replaced.
GFM@@waynemecus2581
Let me see if I have this right in my mind. So the motor is energized continuously until the call for heat is satisfied; then the spring returns the valve to the closed position once the motor is de-energized. When the valve is all the way open, and the motor stays energized,,,,,,,,,what keeps the motor from burning out ?
Thank you.
They are shades pole motors. You could not burn one out if you tried. Their locked rotor amps is only a little above the running load amps. Hope this helps.
GFM
Absolutely bloody useless - wouldn't pay him in shirt buttons !
This guy is a terrible teacher.
Thanks for the support.
GFM