I have the same problem. I think the problem is the pins & socket of the MOLEX connector is at fault if you can't find a bad solder joint on the back of the board where the connector is located. I have just fixed my aquastat by re-soldering the pins to the board of the MOLEX connector.
Did he mention there is a switch on the side labeled Manual or Auto. I think the default from factory is on Manual which means the boiler would not fire from thermostat calling.
Hello. Thank you for this video. I've searched the web and everyone seems to have a different answer to this question: where is the C terminal (common) on the L8148E? Thank you.
Hey. I woke up last night to the smell of burning wire. Checking over the boiler it was definitely coming from the the transformer. No loose wires or fried wires anywhere else. The relay clicks but doesn’t fire if the transformer is burnt out will everything else still get power? Which it seems it does but won’t fire up. The odd thing before this happened, I was vacuuming the dust off of everything on the boiler. Any chance the dust fell on it and burnt it out? Lastly, can the transformer be replaced
Hi I found your video is very helpful and have a problem with the connection ven damper in the aquastat. I checked in the back of the green board but there is no visible loosen connection. When I push down the white connection part hard, then it work briefly but I can't make it steady even though I tuck in some sort of a pen or a piece of stick. In this case, do I have to replace a whole aquastat or I can find a the white connection part and just replace that only? Your help would be very helpful, thank you!
The last week my heat has been going in and out. Some times it starts other times it won't sometimes it starts but the flame goes back out shortly after. I believe it's something with this box as I've played around with it and go it working but now it's getting worse I've got friends who work on and install heaters but they don't know anything about boiler furnaces. Tonight it messed up and wouldn't start for anything finally I got it to first back up a few times. Is that this box going out?
Here is some thing that nobody puts in any of these aquastat videos. During installation or service, if somebody routes one of the wires in front of the relay, there is a good chance that it will be squeezed by the cover and the relay will become non-functional and you will have a no heat situation. To make matters worse, Honeywell in their great wisdom put their little metal tag with tabs right in front of the relay to make it more likely that this wire will press against the top of the relay and prevent it from working.
Thank you for your great video. I mistakenly burnt the trans last night after I saw some smoke come out from behind board. Luckily that was the only damage. I was attempting to change the wiring from a two wire to a three wire ?? Due the fact I wanted to chnange the location of one of our T stat because it was behind our TV?? Thanks again
Buying a new Honeywell or Resideo replacement is buying 1970’s technology. Honeywell is reliable but not modern. Get a Hydrostat 3200+ (gas) or 3250 (oil) which has a temperature readout (1 inch high) and LED status lights, and adjustments that are confirmed by the temperature display panel. It also has an optional Low Water Shutoff but requires a 2 collar boiler water well ($32) but have to drain the boiler to remove old and replace with new. It also has an aEconomy mode which allows a more flexible high and low temperature range in warmer days or when only 1 of multiple zones are called. Used with a Zone control like a Taco SR series, they replace my original 1964 install of something like 8 components and AC cabling, and the Aquastat 3200 and Taco SR show which zone is on, current boiler water temperature, and whether the high limit (180 degrees) is reached. The Aquastat 3200 also has Green indicators showing active status. These Honeywell and Resideo units have no indicators except selector dials, and you have to look at the boiler or circulators to know what operation is called.
8 min video about the obvious things any tech would know. seriously thought he was going to go over the electrical side of everything, how and what you should read and where.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I found this video incredibly helpful! Crown has known about this issue for years and should have issued a recall for that part.
I have the same problem. I think the problem is the pins & socket of the MOLEX connector is at fault if you can't find a bad solder joint on the back of the board where the connector is located. I have just fixed my aquastat by re-soldering the pins to the board of the MOLEX connector.
Thank you, Steve. Appreciate it very much. Another great video. Hope things are well.
Did he mention there is a switch on the side labeled Manual or Auto. I think the default from factory is on Manual which means the boiler would not fire from thermostat calling.
Hello. Thank you for this video. I've searched the web and everyone seems to have a different answer to this question: where is the C terminal (common) on the L8148E? Thank you.
Hey. I woke up last night to the smell of burning wire. Checking over the boiler it was definitely coming from the the transformer. No loose wires or fried wires anywhere else. The relay clicks but doesn’t fire if the transformer is burnt out will everything else still get power? Which it seems it does but won’t fire up. The odd thing before this happened, I was vacuuming the dust off of everything on the boiler. Any chance the dust fell on it and burnt it out? Lastly, can the transformer be replaced
Great video. What’s the difference between the 1265 and 1257. When buying a replacement, should I get the exact number? Thanks
Where would I be connecting the C (blue wire) wire from the the thermostat?
Hi I found your video is very helpful and have a problem with the connection ven damper in the aquastat. I checked in the back of the green board but there is no visible loosen connection. When I push down the white connection part hard, then it work briefly but I can't make it steady even though I tuck in some sort of a pen or a piece of stick. In this case, do I have to replace a whole aquastat or I can find a the white connection part and just replace that only? Your help would be very helpful, thank you!
What did you end up doing? I’ve had the same problem for years.
I have the same issue. The connection is bad on board. The price on the unit is $350
Great video dude - really nice.
The last week my heat has been going in and out. Some times it starts other times it won't sometimes it starts but the flame goes back out shortly after. I believe it's something with this box as I've played around with it and go it working but now it's getting worse I've got friends who work on and install heaters but they don't know anything about boiler furnaces. Tonight it messed up and wouldn't start for anything finally I got it to first back up a few times. Is that this box going out?
Sounds like fuel problem. Change oil filter and clean or replace the nozzle
What would I jump to give the boiler a call?
Here is some thing that nobody puts in any of these aquastat videos. During installation or service, if somebody routes one of the wires in front of the relay, there is a good chance that it will be squeezed by the cover and the relay will become non-functional and you will have a no heat situation. To make matters worse, Honeywell in their great wisdom put their little metal tag with tabs right in front of the relay to make it more likely that this wire will press against the top of the relay and prevent it from working.
The box has many access holes. Why would a wire end up in front of the cover?
Hi question I installed a new indirect tank and I have no hot water the tank is blinking. Any ideas on what it can be
Tried to put my screwdriver where you placed yours and there was a small explosion.
THANK YOU 🤟 😎
👍
Great video
Thank you for your great video. I mistakenly burnt the trans last night after I saw some smoke come out from behind board. Luckily that was the only damage. I was attempting to change the wiring from a two wire to a three wire ?? Due the fact I wanted to chnange the location of one of our T stat because it was behind our TV?? Thanks again
Buying a new Honeywell or Resideo replacement is buying 1970’s technology. Honeywell is reliable but not modern. Get a Hydrostat 3200+ (gas) or 3250 (oil) which has a temperature readout (1 inch high) and LED status lights, and adjustments that are confirmed by the temperature display panel. It also has an optional Low Water Shutoff but requires a 2 collar boiler water well ($32) but have to drain the boiler to remove old and replace with new. It also has an aEconomy mode which allows a more flexible high and low temperature range in warmer days or when only 1 of multiple zones are called. Used with a Zone control like a Taco SR series, they replace my original 1964 install of something like 8 components and AC cabling, and the Aquastat 3200 and Taco SR show which zone is on, current boiler water temperature, and whether the high limit (180 degrees) is reached. The Aquastat 3200 also has Green indicators showing active status. These Honeywell and Resideo units have no indicators except selector dials, and you have to look at the boiler or circulators to know what operation is called.
Buy a new one!!!
yeah for 400 bucks. no thanks.
@@anotherland2462 your right
@@anotherland2462 so what do you suggest? is there something else that can replace this?
8 min video about the obvious things any tech would know. seriously thought he was going to go over the electrical side of everything, how and what you should read and where.
I found this video incredibly helpful!