Zone Valve Troubleshooting - Honeywell V8043E1012 + V8043E1061
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- Опубликовано: 12 фев 2021
- Found bad Honeywell Zone Valve
Part number: V8043E1012 + V8043E1061
Honeywell Zone Valve Repair Kit: amzn.to/2LlDYVA
Honeywell Zone Valve: amzn.to/2Lk1ylP
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Boiler Safety
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Nice evaluation, thanks for the video..👍
Great video 👍🏼👍🏼
Hello sir , just taking a look at some of your videos , they are great help, I have a question ,so I have a electric boiler for in floor heating and we are having a problem with it turning on at night time . We have it preset for a curtain time to kick in when the temp drops below 74, but only happens at night time , it’s drops below 74, but not kicking in, and i check the zone valves they are working fine and we replaced the t-stats, and works fine in the day , but something at night doesn’t seem to be working right , anything else we should be looking at , and also we have to shit the main switch off to the furnace and back on to get it to work properly
I am guessing you have a programmable thermostat which you are setting for the time and temp.
Try swapping the thermostat or jumping out the thermostat and see if it works ok.
Will these new powerheads fit an almost 30-year-old Honeywell zone valve?
At first blush they look the same. Thanks Laddie I am afraid to sweat new because there is no valve to shut water off on the zone. Soldering & water just don't mix.
They will not work on the old green plastic ones but the others work ok but I would not guarantee all old models. Make sure to double check or test one before attempting every zone at once.
I hope this helps.
Great video! I noticed ball valves above and below each zone valve which btw looks very professional. My installation was done 3 years ago and has no ball valves above or below the zone valves. I'm getting ready to drain my system to replace the pressure relief valve and expansion tank. Will the zone valves prevent water from draining back into the boiler while the boiler is draining? In other words, do the zone valves have a check valve to prevent water from flowing the opposite way? There's a ball valve on the return side but nothing between the boiler and the zone valves.
If the power is off to the zone valves then they will stay closed and no water should drain. As long as they are functioning properly
@@furnacetech2581 That's what I was hoping. Thanks for the quick reply.
Great vid..My thermostat was set at 65 and came out to it being 72 in my living room..Shut the stat off and living room heat register was still hot over an hour later..Shut furnace off at the box and register cooled..This a thermostat issue or zone valve stuck open perhaps?
I would turn everything back on and when the register is hot, turn off the thermostat and see if the zone valve closes. If it’s still open, check power to it. If there is no power and the register is still hot then it’s a zone valve issue. If there is still power, then it’s a thermostat issue
@@furnacetech2581 I'm having this same issue but with baseboards. Kitchen zone is constantly at 71 even when thermostat is set to 40.The gas boiler cycles every 10 minutes for 1-2 minutes then shuts off, only sending heat to the kitchen. I have 3 zones but this is the only zone I have this issue with. And not sure why its even heating at 70. Is this a valve issue or is it the aquastat?
Thank you! Sounds like I am having very similar symptoms. Only getting hot water when our other zone is running, so I guess it is stuck open and the manual switch is pretty loose. The boiler is not firing with this zone. The zone valve case seems warm too, not sure if that is normal.
You mention the end switch originally but at the end you say it is the power head. What specifically did you end up replacing? Did you just go with the "Honeywell Zone Valve Repair Kit" that you linked to? And not the end switch or the motor?
I replaced the powerhead which includes the motor and end switch all in one.
Thank you for watching!
@@furnacetech2581 Thanks. Do you happen to have a link to what specifically you ordered?
you didn't show how you switched?
I am sorry about that. I do have another video on my channel where I show how to take these zone valves apart.
Mine is stuck in the middle I can’t move it into manual but does go to auto what’s wrong with it?
I have a zone valve passing water when it should be closed. I bought a new valve set and first tried changing just the actuator. I tried that for a couple of weeks but it was still passing water. So I replaced the valve fully, so new valve and the new actuator. It is still passing water. When the zone call for heat is on the motor starts and opens the valve and the boiler activates as it should. When I turn it off the spring closes the valve and the boiler shuts off. I can see that the actuator mechanism has moved back to about where it should be for closed. But if I turn on another zone then water still passes through the faulty one. Even with a brand new valve. I have double checked that the flow direction as labelled on the valve is correct with regards to the flow outlet from the boiler, plus it's the same as all the others anyway. I don't understand what's wrong. Is my new valve faulty too? Do I need to return it and buy a different one? The only difference with the other zone valves that work fine is that they are mounted vertically and the faulty one is horizontal. That shouldn't be a problem should it?
That should not be a problem. I know you asked this question months ago, how is it working now? Did you solve the issue?
can iu make a video how to flash these system plz
Great video 👍🏼👍🏼