I have been looking for a video like this one for years. I have 6 or 8 motors that I have replaced over the years when it could very well have been a bad end switch or a loose head that could have been binding up the actual ball valve. Thank you!
@@stephenmaddox1823 glad this could help. I wish I could have been more concise with the video, but apparently it helped at least 1 person, so it was worth the time it took to video. Take care.
It would be really helpful if you can show the rewiring of the zone valve so novice folks like myself can understand it better. I hope you consider this and get a separate wiring video created, if possible . Thank you again for this informative video
My heat wasn't turning off, so I replaced the thermostat & actuator. My super rewired the new actuator, but doesn't seem to be working. It won't turn the heat on orr off. I can manually lock the the switch into the on position then the hot water flows but it won't turn off unless I release the arm on the actuator. I think the wiring might be wrong on the actuator , any idea how to rewire it, or any idea what to check? Thanks
It sounds like a wiring issue on the actuator, but unfortunately I'm not qualified to offer electrical advice. I just rewired mine exaxtly how the old one came out. Good luck!
@@TTC2412 I just uploaded a video on the wiring for you to reference if you're still having issues. Apologies for taking so long. ruclips.net/video/4ZJxejJqOyw/видео.htmlsi=AdOcXmJwo079y4w-
I'm not a plumber, but if you needed to circulate hot water for a bit I think it would be ok to keep it manually open. But I wouldn't walk away as you might forget about it and keep the heat running when not needed.
To manually open the valve, you have to push the lever to the right and lock it in that position by pushing the tab in to the lever catch. When the zone activated automatically the lever does not move to the right, however you can see the lever sit slightly lower when it is open. Hope this helps.
the switch just closes when the valve is fully open, closing the connection on the red wires which will initiate the boiler to fire and circulator pump to turn on. If you have it connected to an outdoor wood boiler, which is always on due to burning wood, those wires must not be needed.
Hey ! Great Video! Yup if its a Pop Top its easy! BUT..... Do you know whether a drip coming out under the actuator would mean the valve itself needs a rebuild kit? (has O rings as part of the rebuild kit)....Or....could an actuator cause any drip/leak?
I think it would need a rebuild kit as you stated. The actuator is a dry component. It has no interaction with water. Hope you get the leak fixed easily.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
It's nice to watch a video and have every question you have answered and fully explained... Thank you!
@@Deepwatertackle thanks for the feedback.
THANK YOU! I was also looking for a video on replacing these for my multi-zone boiler. Your video was exactly what I needed.
@@jimbrad3706 glad this helped. In the future I'll work to be more concise in my delivery. Take care.
I have been looking for a video like this one for years. I have 6 or 8 motors that I have replaced over the years when it could very well have been a bad end switch or a loose head that could have been binding up the actual ball valve. Thank you!
@@stephenmaddox1823 glad this could help. I wish I could have been more concise with the video, but apparently it helped at least 1 person, so it was worth the time it took to video. Take care.
It would be really helpful if you can show the rewiring of the zone valve so novice folks like myself can understand it better. I hope you consider this and get a separate wiring video created, if possible . Thank you again for this informative video
@@kedarpandhare8522 I just recorded this. Hope it helps. ruclips.net/video/4ZJxejJqOyw/видео.htmlsi=AdOcXmJwo079y4w-
@@redhawkvalley Thank you so much for your prompt response and the video.
My heat wasn't turning off, so I replaced the thermostat & actuator.
My super rewired the new actuator, but doesn't seem to be working.
It won't turn the heat on orr off.
I can manually lock the the switch into the on position then the hot water flows but it won't turn off unless I release the arm on the actuator.
I think the wiring might be wrong on the actuator , any idea how to rewire it, or any idea what to check? Thanks
It sounds like a wiring issue on the actuator, but unfortunately I'm not qualified to offer electrical advice. I just rewired mine exaxtly how the old one came out. Good luck!
@@TTC2412 I just uploaded a video on the wiring for you to reference if you're still having issues. Apologies for taking so long. ruclips.net/video/4ZJxejJqOyw/видео.htmlsi=AdOcXmJwo079y4w-
That's exactly what I was looking for, my actuator was broken so I was wondering if it's okay if I manually keep the valve open? if not, why not?
I'm not a plumber, but if you needed to circulate hot water for a bit I think it would be ok to keep it manually open. But I wouldn't walk away as you might forget about it and keep the heat running when not needed.
Which position should the lever on top be in to get heat to flow to that area right or left?
To manually open the valve, you have to push the lever to the right and lock it in that position by pushing the tab in to the lever catch. When the zone activated automatically the lever does not move to the right, however you can see the lever sit slightly lower when it is open. Hope this helps.
Mine does not have the red wires connected, the. Are for a switch, but does the switch do anything, this is on outdoor wood boiler, bypass valve?
the switch just closes when the valve is fully open, closing the connection on the red wires which will initiate the boiler to fire and circulator pump to turn on. If you have it connected to an outdoor wood boiler, which is always on due to burning wood, those wires must not be needed.
Hey ! Great Video!
Yup if its a Pop Top its easy! BUT..... Do you know whether a drip coming out under the actuator would mean the valve itself needs a rebuild kit? (has O rings as part of the rebuild kit)....Or....could an actuator cause any drip/leak?
I think it would need a rebuild kit as you stated. The actuator is a dry component. It has no interaction with water. Hope you get the leak fixed easily.