I just reinstalled my pump and was about to connect the electrics when I realized I could not see the + or - marks on the connector and I didn't pay attention when I removed it so I didn't know which side the red lead was suppose to attach to. ( The connector appears to be reversible so if someone like me is not paying attention, I could incorrectly orient the the plug and connect red to the wrong terminal ). Thankfully your video provides the detail of the connector on top of the pump and I have been saved the annoying work of removing the pump to verify the connections. Thank you so much.
Huge thanks for this video! The details on testing the MOSFETs and bench testing the pump are pure gold. Mini dealer in SF CA wants over $1500 for the replacement part right now. SMH
Many thanks for this video ! I am currently working on solving an issue of random running / not running pump. I disassembled it and it seems that it has already been fixed... Anyway, thanks to your video I will be able to check everything !
Go figure the algorithm. Nonetheless I love the vid mate. I've been looking into some issues with my steering system, chasing down rabbit holes. Seems my power steering and fan are working, might have an issue either with my steering column (the bearing) or the steering rack itself. Keep up the great vids!
When testing the control pins to the pump, what volages should I be expecting across which wires? Green - ignition on. Yellow, alternator charging. (Purple - outbound from pump, no need to test?) Charge warning light comes on dash in ignition position 2, then goes out when engine running.
They sell insulators pre-cut to TO-220 shape for cheap. But my pump already has a yellow insulation sheet between the mosfets and the case. (And that green thermal paste too. ). Still need to make sure the heat sinks of replacement mosfets don’t contact the case (i.e. don’t make the legs too long or too crooked. )
Great tutorial Thomas - thanks for sharing. Have pump out and disassembled. At 6m10s in the video, you test the 2 MOSFETs. However, you test them removed from the PCB. My MOSFETs would not switch (and therefore match the behaviour in the video) when in the PCB. I get voltage (c. 0.4v) with -ve lead to pin 2 (+ve) and +ve lead to pin 3 (-ve), but 0l / open circuit with -ve lead to pin 3 (-ve) and +ve lead to pin 2 (+ve). And I can't switch the gate to change that. Same behaviour both MOSFETs. Removed 1 of the MOSFETs from the PCB, and off-board it tests same as yours does off-board. Do you know, is there is a relibale test for the MOSFETs while they are still in situ? - And if so, could you share please? I have ordered some replacement MOSFETs (IRF3205 110A 55V - Amazon UK B0D6B16JFK) which should arrive tomo. Will 1st test off-PCB, then test again in-PCB. My symptoms are: while turning steering from lock to lock, assistance would come and go throughout the sweep. Tricky to say if regular or not (e.g. a la sine wave). So power getting to pump, pump runs, pump shuts-off when ignition goes off, but not consistent / smooth assistance while turning. There was a lot of dust inside. Caps all look fine and have same resistance (c. 4.x MOhms). Pump looks pretty cruddy - still to clean up. But no leaks in pump anywhere. Not even 100% sure my issue is pump related - although could have beeen dust on the PCB that was affecting pump control, or maybe tghe MOSFETs had become slow to switch - I am no expert, and am guessing wildly here. *** CORRECTION: Turns out pump was not running at all. *** Maybe is could even be an issue with the rack. Doh! Should have been listening more closely to the pump (maybe with stehoscope) while wheel was being turned, to see if constant speed from the pump or not. (But I suspect not.) After cleaning PCB with WD40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, noticed white haze on the board. Guess this was the cleaner reacting to the protective conformant spray on the PCB (clear acrylic or suchlike) which will be on to help protect from moisture / contaminants / shorts. I cleaned-off have with some 99% isopropyl alcohol on a small paintbrush - hopefully I haven't taken too much of it off (and consequently left the PCB in a worse state than when I started!). Will post another comment / update after new MOSFETs received and tested on & off board - hopefully within next couple of days. By the way, to remove pump shaft - after no joy with a rubber mallet, I supported pump case collar under 2 pieces of wood to steady it, old trainer underneath to catch the armature, and put barely open jaws of big adjustabkle spanner around the key on the shaft end, and give it whack with club hammer. Came out no problem - with no damage to big rubber seal or key on end of shaft. Reading more of the other comments, just had a horrible thought....maybe the 'variable assistance through turning' issue I have is due to varying power output from the alternator? I have access to ISTA, and ISTA was showing no related codes - PSP or alternator - so hopefully not! (2007 R52)
New IRF3205 MOSFETs received. Tested same off-board as removed top-right MOSFET. Both original MOSFETs tested same on-board. So I bottled-it and didnlt change-out either of the 2 MOSFETs. (Feel free to laugh, I (probably) deserve it! :-) I am new to all of this. Someone suggested, if it ain't broke, don't fix it - why chance on a non like-for-like replacement? So I didn't.) So after just cleaning-up motor and PCBs, and a bit of gunk out of the pump plates, I refitted to the car. Alas - no change from before the endeavour started. Worse - whereas I thought I had been getting some assistance through the lock-to-lock cycle, pump is not running at all. Totally dead. Evidenced by no noise via stethescope on pump body, nor any movement in the fluid in the reservoir with the wheel turning. Doh! Should have checked this BEFORE removing the pump. Have checked F39 5A fuse - all good. Next stop is to check FL4 100A fuse. If that is also good, think next step will be to check voltages at pump control pins. Kicking myself for not changing those MOSFETs - especially since didn't test the top-left one off-board. If I had been doing all the work myself, I would have. But was pestering a very patient buddy to do all the soldering stuff for me - snip coil wires from posts, resolder same, unsolder MOSFET, resoldering MOSFET. But if all further tests check-out, then I think that bwill be the only option left - to go through the whole process again, but repace the MOSFETs.)
Be sure and test voltage and grounds supplied to the pump. Can also test the pump itself on the bench before disassembly again. You mention the protective coating. I suspect that's the missing piece of the puzzle here. Maybe why mine failed. After replacing mosfets, the board probably needs that coating replaced as well. Some sort of resin perhaps??
What i should replece when pump is not start? One time it start and dont stop,then i cut off battery, then work fine,and after next battery off it dont start
Bit of a different issue on mine, f39 fuse had blown after new battery replaced after being sat for 6months, once new fuse is in place I get almost all ignition on without key in barrel, once I disconnect 3 pin small pump plug the issue goes away. Would this be wiring issue related?
Thanks for the video, great help for us in que for redoing the pump. Brushes are almost gone, only 4-5 mm left, and i cannot find any info on replacement part. 3 full spoons of dust in magnet housing. Is it enough just to get same size of brush 10,8*26,8*6 or it needs some specific material? Any additional help would be appreciated.
@@monkeytutz2 it is 210.000 km and i would not like to have to do it again if some material decay sooner , confusing part about brushes is in labeling in my area like carbon, graphite, copper and silver carbon ones... original brushes are not available any time soon.
Great video! I'm trying to find my problem (pump, lines or electric) Is it possible to know how you test the pump before the video ends? It's so fast I'm missing something. Thank you
Use the original plug that goes into the big power positive and negative terminal on pump. Just connect that to it, and the other end to the positive battery and negative. Now find 2 smaller female one pin connectors and plug into the smaller terminal next to that labeled as #1 and #2. Look inside with a flashlight, they are numbered. Just leave #3 alone. 12 volts to both 1&2 and also connect that to the main positive. Now touch to ground and boom....the pump spins my friend.
Dear Thomas, congratulations for the videos you uploaded, they helped me a lot with the problem my mini is facing. In a few days I will open the pump and I already have in my hands a repair kit with o-rings, fuses, bearings, brushes, etc. I have found both types of transistors recommended for replacement (IPF 3205 or 3206) Do you know if anyone has tried it and if so, which is the best to replace the original? Thanks in advance for your reply
Both exceed the spec of the original mosfets and have heard of people having sucess with both. Do share where you sourced brushes etc. Many will find that useful I'm sure. One other point- there does appear to be a clear coating over circuit board. I do wonder if it's necessary to protect those soldered pins.
@@thomaswilding8818 Thanks for the prompt reply. Of course, if everything goes well and this works on my pump, I will immediately inform those who are interested through your channel!
Hi. I am currently having issues with my power steering pump for my 2010 mini cooper bmw. No one seems to know what is wrong or how to fix it. Any advice?
@keriedwards4579 They changed the design entirely after 2006 to a far more reliable set up. From electric powered hydraulic power steering to fully electric. The electric motor is then part of the steering rack. I'm not aware of any common faults on the newer set up. Certainly be worth having an auto electrician check the electric rack is receiving power ground, signal etc before suspecting the rack itself.
Bonjour à tous, quelqu'un peut confirmer que le pin 2 yellow reçoit 12 Volt depuis l'alternateur comme indiqué sur le schéma. Car sur la sortie de mon alternateur le connecteur ou est branché le yellow donne seulement 6 volts. Merci pour votre aide
Very helpful. When you did the power steering delete, what did you do with the wiring harness/connections? Did you just tuck them unconnected to anything?
I disconnected the high tension cables at both ends and removed them completely. Don't want those dangling about. The small connector I just zip tied out of the way.
Just trying to understand a bit more of the functionality here. When I turn my key to position one (engine not running) my PAS pump runs. I assume it should only run, when the engine is running - is that correct. Someone suggested that my problem, or remedy might be the alternator signal - would happen to know if this is correct (or is it indeed the pump?)...... Thanks.
@edwardgurhy100 Should only work when engine is running and alternator producing volts. If it doesn't run at all, it can be the alternator. Can't see how it would work the other way round.
@@thomaswilding8818 Actually just been and double checked. It is key in second position when the pump runs (not first). So, before cranking the pump runs. If I pull the small 3 wire plug out then it doesn't run. Is there a switch (mosfet?) in the circuitry that could be failed on? Just to be clear - the pump runs in second position with engine not running. Is it worth testing the 3 wires (yellow, green, purple) and see what I am getting on each (in either position)?
I see. That is strange. Does your ignition light turn on in the 2nd position, with engine off? It should be illuminated. If not then the problem isn't your pump. Something wrong with the wiring. If is it lit then something wrong with the pump
@@thomaswilding8818 So.... ignition light is on at 2nd position (then goes off obviously on engine start). ..... reading your note here - it seems to suggest two different scenarios, 1. should be lit 2. if lit - something wrong with pump. I clearly am misunderstanding..... ?
@edwardgurhy100 The yellow wire to the pump also goes to the ignition light on the dash. Same circuit. The signal from the alternator is therefore good. You can check the yellow wire at the pump as well if you like. There could be a brake in the wire close to the pump.
They’re available on EBay in the UK complete with the housing for £50. That’s too rich for my blood when brushes will be a fraction of that cost. Do you have the dimensions of the brushes and I’ll see what’s available? New rotors are also available for £100 but again I think that’s quite pricey
Hi! I removed my power steering pump and when I test it direct with the battery it runs super slow then it gets a bit more velocity and then shuts off. My question is, after replace everything you replaced, my power steering wil work again?
@Aleks2G For a guarantee, buy a new pump from mini. These videos give you a starting point if you want to have a go yourself. If you can work out what's wrong with your old pump, and repair what's broken, then it'll work again.
@Aleks2G It’s a big motor. Perhaps check your voltage. The motor would run a small battery flat very quickly. Which is probably why they designed it to not run if alternator isn't charging.
My friend. I just tested my pump as you did, but it does not sound nowhere as loud pumping as yours. It starts very quiet and then gradually gets louder and stronger. But still never that loud. Is that a problem?
You can bench test if the mosfets have failed causing it to run all the time or not at all. But testing strength of the motor would need a different set up. For example, gage of wire or contact patch could change how fast the motor runs on the bench.
@@thomaswilding8818 that makes sense. I had tiny alligator clips running to my battery outside of the vehicle. What was more concerning was slow motor startup that gradually got fast. Suspected the capacitor but have not opened to test. What would you think? Capacitor test for slow starting speed? Nice video... One of a kind video on here mate
@nikwashere1107 A short on the control wire for switch-on, which (I believe) should only activate when alternator is running & charging? Did you figure it out?
Fyi, there is a boot release under the rear bench seat.
Fantastic!
I just reinstalled my pump and was about to connect the electrics when I realized I could not see the + or - marks on the connector and I didn't pay attention when I removed it so I didn't know which side the red lead was suppose to attach to. ( The connector appears to be reversible so if someone like me is not paying attention, I could incorrectly orient the the plug and connect red to the wrong terminal ). Thankfully your video provides the detail of the connector on top of the pump and I have been saved the annoying work of removing the pump to verify the connections. Thank you so much.
Huge thanks for this video! The details on testing the MOSFETs and bench testing the pump are pure gold. Mini dealer in SF CA wants over $1500 for the replacement part right now. SMH
Sounds like theft,keep it
You have made another happy mini owner mate. Followed your guide and steering is better than it has ever been. Thank you.
Many thanks for this video ! I am currently working on solving an issue of random running / not running pump. I disassembled it and it seems that it has already been fixed... Anyway, thanks to your video I will be able to check everything !
Fantastic, good resources in the description. Its the little things, thank you and keep it up!
Go figure the algorithm. Nonetheless I love the vid mate.
I've been looking into some issues with my steering system, chasing down rabbit holes.
Seems my power steering and fan are working, might have an issue either with my steering column (the bearing) or the steering rack itself.
Keep up the great vids!
When testing the control pins to the pump, what volages should I be expecting across which wires? Green - ignition on. Yellow, alternator charging. (Purple - outbound from pump, no need to test?) Charge warning light comes on dash in ignition position 2, then goes out when engine running.
As for insulating the MOSFETs try silicon pads, these will conduct the heat and isolate the MOSFETs from the case.
They sell insulators pre-cut to TO-220 shape for cheap. But my pump already has a yellow insulation sheet between the mosfets and the case. (And that green thermal paste too. ). Still need to make sure the heat sinks of replacement mosfets don’t contact the case (i.e. don’t make the legs too long or too crooked. )
Great tutorial Thomas - thanks for sharing. Have pump out and disassembled. At 6m10s in the video, you test the 2 MOSFETs. However, you test them removed from the PCB. My MOSFETs would not switch (and therefore match the behaviour in the video) when in the PCB. I get voltage (c. 0.4v) with -ve lead to pin 2 (+ve) and +ve lead to pin 3 (-ve), but 0l / open circuit with -ve lead to pin 3 (-ve) and +ve lead to pin 2 (+ve). And I can't switch the gate to change that. Same behaviour both MOSFETs. Removed 1 of the MOSFETs from the PCB, and off-board it tests same as yours does off-board. Do you know, is there is a relibale test for the MOSFETs while they are still in situ? - And if so, could you share please? I have ordered some replacement MOSFETs (IRF3205 110A 55V - Amazon UK B0D6B16JFK) which should arrive tomo. Will 1st test off-PCB, then test again in-PCB. My symptoms are: while turning steering from lock to lock, assistance would come and go throughout the sweep. Tricky to say if regular or not (e.g. a la sine wave). So power getting to pump, pump runs, pump shuts-off when ignition goes off, but not consistent / smooth assistance while turning. There was a lot of dust inside. Caps all look fine and have same resistance (c. 4.x MOhms). Pump looks pretty cruddy - still to clean up. But no leaks in pump anywhere. Not even 100% sure my issue is pump related - although could have beeen dust on the PCB that was affecting pump control, or maybe tghe MOSFETs had become slow to switch - I am no expert, and am guessing wildly here. *** CORRECTION: Turns out pump was not running at all. *** Maybe is could even be an issue with the rack. Doh! Should have been listening more closely to the pump (maybe with stehoscope) while wheel was being turned, to see if constant speed from the pump or not. (But I suspect not.) After cleaning PCB with WD40 Specialist Contact Cleaner, noticed white haze on the board. Guess this was the cleaner reacting to the protective conformant spray on the PCB (clear acrylic or suchlike) which will be on to help protect from moisture / contaminants / shorts. I cleaned-off have with some 99% isopropyl alcohol on a small paintbrush - hopefully I haven't taken too much of it off (and consequently left the PCB in a worse state than when I started!). Will post another comment / update after new MOSFETs received and tested on & off board - hopefully within next couple of days. By the way, to remove pump shaft - after no joy with a rubber mallet, I supported pump case collar under 2 pieces of wood to steady it, old trainer underneath to catch the armature, and put barely open jaws of big adjustabkle spanner around the key on the shaft end, and give it whack with club hammer. Came out no problem - with no damage to big rubber seal or key on end of shaft.
Reading more of the other comments, just had a horrible thought....maybe the 'variable assistance through turning' issue I have is due to varying power output from the alternator? I have access to ISTA, and ISTA was showing no related codes - PSP or alternator - so hopefully not! (2007 R52)
New IRF3205 MOSFETs received. Tested same off-board as removed top-right MOSFET. Both original MOSFETs tested same on-board. So I bottled-it and didnlt change-out either of the 2 MOSFETs. (Feel free to laugh, I (probably) deserve it! :-) I am new to all of this. Someone suggested, if it ain't broke, don't fix it - why chance on a non like-for-like replacement? So I didn't.) So after just cleaning-up motor and PCBs, and a bit of gunk out of the pump plates, I refitted to the car. Alas - no change from before the endeavour started. Worse - whereas I thought I had been getting some assistance through the lock-to-lock cycle, pump is not running at all. Totally dead. Evidenced by no noise via stethescope on pump body, nor any movement in the fluid in the reservoir with the wheel turning. Doh! Should have checked this BEFORE removing the pump. Have checked F39 5A fuse - all good. Next stop is to check FL4 100A fuse. If that is also good, think next step will be to check voltages at pump control pins. Kicking myself for not changing those MOSFETs - especially since didn't test the top-left one off-board. If I had been doing all the work myself, I would have. But was pestering a very patient buddy to do all the soldering stuff for me - snip coil wires from posts, resolder same, unsolder MOSFET, resoldering MOSFET. But if all further tests check-out, then I think that bwill be the only option left - to go through the whole process again, but repace the MOSFETs.)
Be sure and test voltage and grounds supplied to the pump. Can also test the pump itself on the bench before disassembly again.
You mention the protective coating. I suspect that's the missing piece of the puzzle here. Maybe why mine failed. After replacing mosfets, the board probably needs that coating replaced as well. Some sort of resin perhaps??
My power steering pump
Keeps also running when the key is out of the ignition. So i need to replace the 2 mosfet transistors to IRF 3205?
Yep, first place I'd check with the multimeter.
@@thomaswilding8818 i checked it and it are the transistors. Thanks!
What i should replece when pump is not start? One time it start and dont stop,then i cut off battery, then work fine,and after next battery off it dont start
Could be the mosfets failing on or off. Go through the tests with a multimeter and confirm
Thanks,both tranzistors are burnt. Is there a chance thats only this transistors? Should i put there irf 3206?
@tomekb5261 replace mosfets then bench test before going to the trouble of refitting.
Bit of a different issue on mine, f39 fuse had blown after new battery replaced after being sat for 6months, once new fuse is in place I get almost all ignition on without key in barrel, once I disconnect 3 pin small pump plug the issue goes away. Would this be wiring issue related?
Mine starts off slowly until full speed obtained, yours burst into full speed immediately, are both these scenarios ok?
Thanks for the video, great help for us in que for redoing the pump. Brushes are almost gone, only 4-5 mm left, and i cannot find any info on replacement part. 3 full spoons of dust in magnet housing. Is it enough just to get same size of brush 10,8*26,8*6 or it needs some specific material? Any additional help would be appreciated.
You should be fine with the same size brush. I personally wouldn’t fret too much about the composition of the material
@@monkeytutz2 it is 210.000 km and i would not like to have to do it again if some material decay sooner , confusing part about brushes is in labeling in my area like carbon, graphite, copper and silver carbon ones... original brushes are not available any time soon.
Thank you
Great video! I'm trying to find my problem (pump, lines or electric) Is it possible to know how you test the pump before the video ends? It's so fast I'm missing something. Thank you
Use the original plug that goes into the big power positive and negative terminal on pump. Just connect that to it, and the other end to the positive battery and negative. Now find 2 smaller female one pin connectors and plug into the smaller terminal next to that labeled as #1 and #2. Look inside with a flashlight, they are numbered. Just leave #3 alone. 12 volts to both 1&2 and also connect that to the main positive. Now touch to ground and boom....the pump spins my friend.
Dear Thomas, congratulations for the videos you uploaded, they helped me a lot with the problem my mini is facing. In a few days I will open the pump and I already have in my hands a repair kit with o-rings, fuses, bearings, brushes, etc. I have found both types of transistors recommended for replacement (IPF 3205 or 3206) Do you know if anyone has tried it and if so, which is the best to replace the original? Thanks in advance for your reply
Both exceed the spec of the original mosfets and have heard of people having sucess with both. Do share where you sourced brushes etc. Many will find that useful I'm sure. One other point- there does appear to be a clear coating over circuit board. I do wonder if it's necessary to protect those soldered pins.
@@thomaswilding8818 Thanks for the prompt reply. Of course, if everything goes well and this works on my pump, I will immediately inform those who are interested through your channel!
Hola si los transistores tiran al rededor de 850 están bien?
Hi. I am currently having issues with my power steering pump for my 2010 mini cooper bmw. No one seems to know what is wrong or how to fix it. Any advice?
@keriedwards4579 They changed the design entirely after 2006 to a far more reliable set up. From electric powered hydraulic power steering to fully electric. The electric motor is then part of the steering rack. I'm not aware of any common faults on the newer set up. Certainly be worth having an auto electrician check the electric rack is receiving power ground, signal etc before suspecting the rack itself.
Bonjour à tous, quelqu'un peut confirmer que le pin 2 yellow reçoit 12 Volt depuis l'alternateur comme indiqué sur le schéma.
Car sur la sortie de mon alternateur le connecteur ou est branché le yellow donne seulement 6 volts.
Merci pour votre aide
Thanks for the great vid. What type of pivoting ratchet is that?
A personal favourite. If your in the USA, HarborFreight search for 96782
Very helpful. When you did the power steering delete, what did you do with the wiring harness/connections? Did you just tuck them unconnected to anything?
I disconnected the high tension cables at both ends and removed them completely. Don't want those dangling about. The small connector I just zip tied out of the way.
Just trying to understand a bit more of the functionality here. When I turn my key to position one (engine not running) my PAS pump runs. I assume it should only run, when the engine is running - is that correct. Someone suggested that my problem, or remedy might be the alternator signal - would happen to know if this is correct (or is it indeed the pump?)...... Thanks.
@edwardgurhy100 Should only work when engine is running and alternator producing volts. If it doesn't run at all, it can be the alternator. Can't see how it would work the other way round.
@@thomaswilding8818 Actually just been and double checked. It is key in second position when the pump runs (not first). So, before cranking the pump runs. If I pull the small 3 wire plug out then it doesn't run. Is there a switch (mosfet?) in the circuitry that could be failed on? Just to be clear - the pump runs in second position with engine not running. Is it worth testing the 3 wires (yellow, green, purple) and see what I am getting on each (in either position)?
I see. That is strange. Does your ignition light turn on in the 2nd position, with engine off? It should be illuminated. If not then the problem isn't your pump. Something wrong with the wiring. If is it lit then something wrong with the pump
@@thomaswilding8818 So.... ignition light is on at 2nd position (then goes off obviously on engine start). ..... reading your note here - it seems to suggest two different scenarios, 1. should be lit 2. if lit - something wrong with pump. I clearly am misunderstanding..... ?
@edwardgurhy100 The yellow wire to the pump also goes to the ignition light on the dash. Same circuit. The signal from the alternator is therefore good. You can check the yellow wire at the pump as well if you like. There could be a brake in the wire close to the pump.
How did you wire it up on the logic loop part for the test run? I've made a few attempts on the bench without any luck.
@@sinclairpatrick pins 1 and 2 get 12v. Nothing on pin 3.
Cheers, I'll give it another try.
Hi thomas, very useful thanks, any idea where to get brushes?
No. Hoping someone will chime in and let us know.
They’re available on EBay in the UK complete with the housing for £50.
That’s too rich for my blood when brushes will be a fraction of that cost.
Do you have the dimensions of the brushes and I’ll see what’s available?
New rotors are also available for £100 but again I think that’s quite pricey
Correction. The connector does in one way.
Hi! I removed my power steering pump and when I test it direct with the battery it runs super slow then it gets a bit more velocity and then shuts off. My question is, after replace everything you replaced, my power steering wil work again?
@Aleks2G For a guarantee, buy a new pump from mini. These videos give you a starting point if you want to have a go yourself. If you can work out what's wrong with your old pump, and repair what's broken, then it'll work again.
If I test it with the battery it should be running all the time plugged or it turns off because it doesn't have steering fluid?
@Aleks2G It’s a big motor. Perhaps check your voltage. The motor would run a small battery flat very quickly. Which is probably why they designed it to not run if alternator isn't charging.
My friend. I just tested my pump as you did, but it does not sound nowhere as loud pumping as yours. It starts very quiet and then gradually gets louder and stronger. But still never that loud. Is that a problem?
You can bench test if the mosfets have failed causing it to run all the time or not at all. But testing strength of the motor would need a different set up. For example, gage of wire or contact patch could change how fast the motor runs on the bench.
@@thomaswilding8818 that makes sense. I had tiny alligator clips running to my battery outside of the vehicle. What was more concerning was slow motor startup that gradually got fast. Suspected the capacitor but have not opened to test. What would you think? Capacitor test for slow starting speed? Nice video... One of a kind video on here mate
annoyingly i replaced the Mosfet and it still is having the issue of always running
@nikwashere1107 A short on the control wire for switch-on, which (I believe) should only activate when alternator is running & charging? Did you figure it out?
@Pretzelmeister I ended up finding just the control board and brushes part on line for a good price, swapped that on my old motor and it works great
@@nikwashere1107 Good to hear! :-) I presume both the control board and brushes were both used parts?