Mini R50 R53 power steering pump overhaul and repair
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 мар 2024
- If your pump keeps running after you turn the car off of never runs, this video gives some cheaper options than buying a new pump. If you're happy soldering.
Run through disassembly, clean and rebuild of the electric power steering pump for Mini R50 and R53 (2000-2006).
I do NOT cover removal or installation. There some excellent guides already, like modmini
• MINI Cooper Replace Po...
Assembly of the pump itself is covered in my previous video:
• Mini R50 R53 Rebuild P...
Fuses:
Ignition fuse F39 5A in left foot well (green white wire).
Power to the pump fuse FL4 100A engine bay underside of fuse box (heavy red cable).
Some of the electronic parts:
Mosfet - 2N04H4 TO-220 = IRF3205 (TO220)) = IRF 3206
These fail causing pump to always or never run
Capacitors (all the same) 2700uF (M) 25V epcos LL B41866-S5278-M5 40/125/56
Rectifier diode schottky PBYR 4045WT PHm0419 A2 = PBYR 3045PT
Diode (ON) MR2520L
Small capacitor 47 VFC 6M1
Bearings - 6001 2RS 
Авто/Мото
Fyi, there is a boot release under the rear bench seat.
Fantastic!
You have made another happy mini owner mate. Followed your guide and steering is better than it has ever been. Thank you.
Huge thanks for this video! The details on testing the MOSFETs and bench testing the pump are pure gold. Mini dealer in SF CA wants over $1500 for the replacement part right now. SMH
I just reinstalled my pump and was about to connect the electrics when I realized I could not see the + or - marks on the connector and I didn't pay attention when I removed it so I didn't know which side the red lead was suppose to attach to. ( The connector appears to be reversible so if someone like me is not paying attention, I could incorrectly orient the the plug and connect red to the wrong terminal ). Thankfully your video provides the detail of the connector on top of the pump and I have been saved the annoying work of removing the pump to verify the connections. Thank you so much.
As for insulating the MOSFETs try silicon pads, these will conduct the heat and isolate the MOSFETs from the case.
They sell insulators pre-cut to TO-220 shape for cheap. But my pump already has a yellow insulation sheet between the mosfets and the case. (And that green thermal paste too. ). Still need to make sure the heat sinks of replacement mosfets don’t contact the case (i.e. don’t make the legs too long or too crooked. )
Many thanks for this video ! I am currently working on solving an issue of random running / not running pump. I disassembled it and it seems that it has already been fixed... Anyway, thanks to your video I will be able to check everything !
Fantastic, good resources in the description. Its the little things, thank you and keep it up!
Go figure the algorithm. Nonetheless I love the vid mate.
I've been looking into some issues with my steering system, chasing down rabbit holes.
Seems my power steering and fan are working, might have an issue either with my steering column (the bearing) or the steering rack itself.
Keep up the great vids!
Thank you
Mine starts off slowly until full speed obtained, yours burst into full speed immediately, are both these scenarios ok?
My power steering pump
Keeps also running when the key is out of the ignition. So i need to replace the 2 mosfet transistors to IRF 3205?
Yep, first place I'd check with the multimeter.
@@thomaswilding8818 i checked it and it are the transistors. Thanks!
Great video! I'm trying to find my problem (pump, lines or electric) Is it possible to know how you test the pump before the video ends? It's so fast I'm missing something. Thank you
Use the original plug that goes into the big power positive and negative terminal on pump. Just connect that to it, and the other end to the positive battery and negative. Now find 2 smaller female one pin connectors and plug into the smaller terminal next to that labeled as #1 and #2. Look inside with a flashlight, they are numbered. Just leave #3 alone. 12 volts to both 1&2 and also connect that to the main positive. Now touch to ground and boom....the pump spins my friend.
Very helpful. When you did the power steering delete, what did you do with the wiring harness/connections? Did you just tuck them unconnected to anything?
I disconnected the high tension cables at both ends and removed them completely. Don't want those dangling about. The small connector I just zip tied out of the way.
Thanks for the great vid. What type of pivoting ratchet is that?
A personal favourite. If your in the USA, HarborFreight search for 96782
Hi thomas, very useful thanks, any idea where to get brushes?
No. Hoping someone will chime in and let us know.
Correction. The connector does in one way.
Dear Thomas, congratulations for the videos you uploaded, they helped me a lot with the problem my mini is facing. In a few days I will open the pump and I already have in my hands a repair kit with o-rings, fuses, bearings, brushes, etc. I have found both types of transistors recommended for replacement (IPF 3205 or 3206) Do you know if anyone has tried it and if so, which is the best to replace the original? Thanks in advance for your reply
Both exceed the spec of the original mosfets and have heard of people having sucess with both. Do share where you sourced brushes etc. Many will find that useful I'm sure. One other point- there does appear to be a clear coating over circuit board. I do wonder if it's necessary to protect those soldered pins.
@@thomaswilding8818 Thanks for the prompt reply. Of course, if everything goes well and this works on my pump, I will immediately inform those who are interested through your channel!
What i should replece when pump is not start? One time it start and dont stop,then i cut off battery, then work fine,and after next battery off it dont start
Could be the mosfets failing on or off. Go through the tests with a multimeter and confirm
Thanks,both tranzistors are burnt. Is there a chance thats only this transistors? Should i put there irf 3206?
@tomekb5261 replace mosfets then bench test before going to the trouble of refitting.
My friend. I just tested my pump as you did, but it does not sound nowhere as loud pumping as yours. It starts very quiet and then gradually gets louder and stronger. But still never that loud. Is that a problem?
You can bench test if the mosfets have failed causing it to run all the time or not at all. But testing strength of the motor would need a different set up. For example, gage of wire or contact patch could change how fast the motor runs on the bench.
@@thomaswilding8818 that makes sense. I had tiny alligator clips running to my battery outside of the vehicle. What was more concerning was slow motor startup that gradually got fast. Suspected the capacitor but have not opened to test. What would you think? Capacitor test for slow starting speed? Nice video... One of a kind video on here mate