Hi Thomas I ran across your video on an oops while trying to find my brothers mini's issue. I just want to commend you not only for the wonderful information you have supplied but for responding to everyone's questions. I know it can be time consuming but having someone put out a diy video and then not respond to legitimate concerns is disturbing as I am sure most viewers know. Great information your time is well appreciated. Thank you
complimenti bellissimo video. dettagliato nelle fasi di smontaggio e rimontaggio dei componenti , un grande aiuto per la riparazione fai da te , chi possiede una mini ti ringrazierà. roberto
A good overview. I'm a retired aviation mech and tech. My 2006 R52S has a broken pin #2 on the digital three pin on the pump's connector. Just had to get into it and jumper from the pin 2 on the connector to the circuit board. It's better than buying a new one. I have a couple of issues with the video. If one doesn't have experience solder, it's best to skip cleaning the circuit board. I tried using a 50 watt soldering pencil live to video on the brush connection. Too cold. Then a 100 watt solder gun. Just enough for a dangerously cold solder joint. It took a Weller 200 watt gun for good solder joints. Next week I'm pulling a friends subframe for control arm bushing changes. Since his R52S has 131K miles, and after seeing the power steering pump contamination/mess on my R52S with 80K miles, I'm going to clean the PS armature and brush area.... only. I believe going deeper is an unnecessary risk. Consider this... Soldering is an acquired skill after training. Take care. This video is a good overview.
Good advice to just take the stator/casing off if doing preventative maintenance. And it is important to get the solder flowing well. Wattage helps. Also important to have the right size tip on the soldering iron. You'll need a lot of wattage to make up for the tip being too small because the component will dissipate it too rapidly. In this video I'm only using 50 watts. Set to 350 C, but with a large knife tip.
The problem with unexpected on/off of the steering motor is most likely because of dust on the control PCB. This board is controlling the speed of the motor depending on the car speed. So cleaning a PCB is an important step!
This is good stuff Thomas. I agree regarding the soldering- its a fine balance- Ive got a range of Irons but your video is the only one that gives insight to whats inside and how to get to it. Thanks.
Great video. Very clear and understandable. Did it work after the clean. I have to try this on mine. My r50 is like driving a tank. Thanks for the upload of this job 👍
With@@thomaswilding8818 we've now tested this PS pump back in my 2006 MINI Cooper S Checkmate R53. Please see my own comments elsewhere in thread here. I had swapped this PS pump out for a used, replacement PS pump, which was working in the MINI just fine, proving that my car's systems were working okay. We took that pump out, to re-fit our original pump, having been reconditioned by Thomas in this video. I am happy to say that it has been running... well, exactly as it should! Nothing else to report except that it works just fine. Thanks very much Thomas! If you've got an 'iffy' PS pump, it could be well worth a crack to have a go at reconditioning your own pump rather than simply replacing it, following Thomas' service instructions.
THis is awesome @thomaswilding8818 I tried to do something like this 2 years ago on an r53 pump and there where NO Resources. I'm not having PS problems again...this is invaluable.
I love to do this if the PS pump of my R53 fails than purchasing a new expensive PS PUMP, at least I believe that’s everything can be repaired, however I wish my PSP can hold up as long as I live with 🙏 Nice great vid, thank you
Hi, thanks for the video! My mini cooper s r53 pump would not shutdown even if i turn off ignition and remove key. It only stops when battery is removed! Any suggestions on what could be wrong? Also what fluid are u using to clean up, and what soldier should I use to re-attach?!
That is a common problem caused by the pump itself. But also check your battery box isn’t full of water. A thicker solder is easier. And one with flux easier also. I have not tried the lead free solder. I use crc precision CO contact cleaner.
nice video, honestly it is....but question will this sort a leak, cause my mini is Leaking from the pump, recently changed the rack and the power steering pipes...so all that's left is the pump... Will it stop the leak or it's futile?
Nothing to sort leaks in this video. Start at the top and work down. Leaks can drip down to the pump. There's an o-ring around the reservoir cap that can leak. The cap also has a vent. Then hoses - clamps top and bottom of each.
Check fuse FL4 100A and F39 5A. No wiring diagrams in my haynes manual. I think power supply is off the battery via fuse FL4 (engine compartment fuse box). Switching and control from a module within the pump itself. Switched on when the ignition is on and alternator is charging. If the charging system dash light is off then the power steering pump is activated (yellow wire from dash light triggers PS pump) together with the ignition circuit on - fuse F39 (5A in foot well, green white wire). Violet white wire is the signal wire to ECU, ABS and OBD. That is the way it is meant to run. If dust creates a short then can run all the time. Conversely, if the alternator is not working then a good power steering pump will not run at all.
Maestro thanks You su cátedra es buena lo pondré en práctica ,por ahora lo desarme el colector del rebobinador está gastado los carbones pueden trabajar lo que nesecito son los valores de su módulo electrónico estoy por consultar a un electronico muchas gracias..
my pump just failed today. your excellent video couldn't come at a better timing! just one question. what is the size of the bearing? would love to replace it while i'm in there.
If you have all the tools then you should try this it's worked for lots of people. If I had tools I would definitely try this my mini is like driving a truck at the moment
Great video Thomas. I was wondering how I might go about testing the pump after I've finished repairing it, is there any way I can test the circuit is functioning properly other than placing it in the car? I think it only works if it has signal from the left-right sensors that connect to it. Any ideas?
Good question. I imagine it’s more than supplying power. If it works as a feedback loop, rather than a simple signal. That would require hydraulic connection as well. Might be worth setting up a test bench if you were doing many pumps.
Question... You mentioned at the end of the video the issue was getting the pump shaft keyed in with the drive motor, is that a tricky thing to do? Should the fluid impeller move around or be "wobbly" before it seats on the shelf?
No, not hard at all. Turn it until you feel the key drop into place. It's more that it would be easy to forget and then wonder why it didn't bolt together properly.
@@thomaswilding8818 ahh ok, I've completed the steps show and tested the motor without the fluid impeller section on to see the end of the shaft spin and it spins fine. I then refitted the end of the pump with the key and hose connector, refitted it back in the car and it doesn't work. I get a little bit of PAS at the start occasionally but then it dies away after a second 🤦 looks like I need a new unit...
@@thomaswilding8818 I wondered if I had not located the key properly on the shaft but it's magnetic so I assumed after a few twists it clicks in and I can bolt it down.
That's a pain. Only thing I can suggest is start over. Check wiring, fluid. If all good, check the pump again. It's very hard to get the motivation to go back to the start, I know.
Great video Thomas. thanks for posting this. Im in the process of rebuilding my psp. I am trying to get a replacement for these two small transistors marked f33 and f9 (yours are G76 and C67) but i couldnt find them anywhere no one seem to know of these codes.. do you have any equivalent specs that i can use to buy these transistors?
This page has some discussion of transistor part number - sounds like it's a 2N04H4 TO 220 www.mini2.com/threads/mini-cooper-steering-pump-definitive-solution.343394/ And that links to dabongmini.blogspot.com/2018/10/mini-cooper-power-steering-pump-repair.html?m=1
It could be bearings. But those don’t get any PS fluid. The other moving part is the pump itself (separate to the electric motor). In the video, it looks like an alloy block that is removed from the motor and laid to one side. That would be the other suspect component.
It's the PS pump out of my R53 2006 MINI Cooper S Checkmate in this video, so I wanted to add comment as to what transpired. Symptoms first... We had an alternator failure, and noticed the power steering had shut down. This was catalyst to do some long-awaited engine work. Hopefully when it all went back together, with a brand new alternator, the power steering pump would be fine, right?? Ahh, no! Initially on systems liven up the PS pump would continue to run when the ignition key was on auxiliary, whirring away constantly after shutting down the engine. At some point this stopped, and we thought (fingers crossed) everything was fine. But there'd be times when the PS system wouldn't start the pump, and steering was heavy. At other times, the PS pump worked just fine. I took the path of least resistance... and got another pump, before a discussion with Thomas revealed that he was keen to have a go at repairing it, to make this video. The replacement PS pump was working in the MINI just fine, indicating that my car's systems were working okay... but we took that out to re-fit our original pump, having been reconditioned by Thomas Wilding. I am happy to say that it has been running... well, exactly as it should! Nothing else to report except that it works just fine. Thanks very much Thomas! If you've got an 'iffy' PS pump, it could be well worth a crack to have a go at reconditioning your own pump rather than simply replacing it, following Thomas' service instructions.
This is the response I was looking for. Just today noticed ps pump wasn't shutting off after I shut the engine down. Caught it immediately and started disconnecting the battery when the car was not in use. Honest opinion, was this more work then just replacing the pump, or would you say this is worth the time?
@@dcfsmustbestopped Definitely easier to simply replace with a new pump. This rebuild is about spending hours to save $$. But if you're replacing with a 2nd hand pump, then it's a bit of a gamble unless you know the replacement pump is good. I actually did the pump in my car as preventative maintenance.
@@thomaswilding8818 Thanks for the reply. I have all the symptoms you describe. Battery light is on and power steering pump runs when car is off. I just haven't noticed any actual impairment in the steering...yet. Gonna use your guide here and give this a go on my r50.
Be careful. You can damage the drive. But yes, it does need a hard hit to break them apart. If you have one, use a brass hammer or driver before trying a bare steel hammer.
Hi Thomas, I am in the process of following your video, very helpful.. I have a question however: Is it normal that there appears to be no gasket between the pump and motor assemblies? when I separated the two parts, the two metal faces were gluey with old fluid, and fluid leaked out of the pump through the hole where the motor shaft enters.. also the impeller (or whatever the motor mates with inside the pump) appears to wobble about freely inside the pump, as if its only the motor that holds it centralised. I am concerned that when i put the thing back together it will leak. any thoughts most appreciated.
Great video. Trying to dignose my PSP issues at the moment. Mine seems to cut out as soon as the car gets up to temperature. Ill give this a go if all else fails
I considered putting thermal compound (arcticsilver) between the diode and transistors where they press flat against the plate. Probably should have followed through with that. All that dust - as well as causing electrical shorts - would compromise heat dissipation. And obviously heat is an issue, given bmw mounted a little fan to blow on the pump.
@@thomaswilding8818 that is a good idea though thermal compounds are often elecrically conductive so id be worry about it moving and shorting something else. Once ive rebuilt mine im going to build a heatshield to protect it from the manifold
Hi Thomas, I need to get in touch with you regarding my ps pump. It stays on and drains the battery. I am interested in rebuilding it as I don't want to gamble on a secondhand unit. I am located in Auckland
@@thomaswilding8818 I was measuring draw at the engine bay fusebox at the time and had the fusebox upside down, pulling the pump's fuse and then re installing while the car was in standby mode. But easiest way would be to measure draw at the battery and then to pull the main connector from the pump. Either way its going to be hassle so I appreciate why you won't want to test 😂, do you happen to have a spare pump as it would be easier to test on the bench if you've a 12V power supply or spare battery aswell?
@@warwickdean I was getting a total of 0.5 amps at the red battery wire, but suspect I woke the car up popping the bonnet. I saw 0.05 amp after waiting. I must say, I can leave the mini parked for weeks and the battery has enough juice to crank the engine, no problem. So I expect it has a much lower steady draw than say a jag. What sort of numbers are you getting?
@@thomaswilding8818 when the vehicle is armed, after 2 minutes, I get 31~35mA, if I unplug the pump mains, it drops by around 15mA. I would have presumed it should take 0-1mA and not 15mA but there's no reference for all the tolerances anywhere
@@thomaswilding8818 your car probably wasn't in sleep mode but yeah with wake I see around 0.6A (600mA). In sleep mode it should be 0.012A~0.034A (12mA~34mA), I managed to get a reference from a friend and his R53. Mine falls into that range if I unplug my power steering pump aswell, which makes me suspect the pump should draw probably 0-1mA in standby but I may be wrong.
If you’ve got a capacitance setting on your multimeter, use that and check against microF written on the capacitor itself. My cheap meter doesn’t have that. Looking at resistance, they should all be about the same.
I think the diode is bad as im getting readings on all 3 connectors no matter what lead i use (red/black) ordered a new one ,not sure if its the right one
@@alexanderclifford9826 Makes sense. Cooling must be an issue with these, given it's pressed against the casing to make a heat sink. Please do share a link to the part you ordered in case that helps others.
Hi Thomas I ran across your video on an oops while trying to find my brothers mini's issue. I just want to commend you not only for the wonderful information you have supplied but for responding to everyone's questions. I know it can be time consuming but having someone put out a diy video and then not respond to legitimate concerns is disturbing as I am sure most viewers know. Great information your time is well appreciated. Thank you
Thanks. Many a repair job that others youtube videos helped me. So try and return the favour.
complimenti bellissimo video. dettagliato nelle fasi di smontaggio e rimontaggio dei componenti , un grande aiuto per la riparazione fai da te , chi possiede una mini ti ringrazierà.
roberto
Grazie
This did the job for me!
Apparently the carbon gets stuck on the circuit board, and the mosfet stays closed. Explains why there is no burnt fuse.
A good overview. I'm a retired aviation mech and tech. My 2006 R52S has a broken pin #2 on the digital three pin on the pump's connector. Just had to get into it and jumper from the pin 2 on the connector to the circuit board. It's better than buying a new one. I have a couple of issues with the video. If one doesn't have experience solder, it's best to skip cleaning the circuit board. I tried using a 50 watt soldering pencil live to video on the brush connection. Too cold. Then a 100 watt solder gun. Just enough for a dangerously cold solder joint. It took a Weller 200 watt gun for good solder joints. Next week I'm pulling a friends subframe for control arm bushing changes. Since his R52S has 131K miles, and after seeing the power steering pump contamination/mess on my R52S with 80K miles, I'm going to clean the PS armature and brush area.... only. I believe going deeper is an unnecessary risk. Consider this... Soldering is an acquired skill after training. Take care. This video is a good overview.
Good advice to just take the stator/casing off if doing preventative maintenance. And it is important to get the solder flowing well. Wattage helps. Also important to have the right size tip on the soldering iron. You'll need a lot of wattage to make up for the tip being too small because the component will dissipate it too rapidly. In this video I'm only using 50 watts. Set to 350 C, but with a large knife tip.
The problem with unexpected on/off of the steering motor is most likely because of dust on the control PCB. This board is controlling the speed of the motor depending on the car speed. So cleaning a PCB is an important step!
How good video!! Regards from spain!!
This is good stuff Thomas. I agree regarding the soldering- its a fine balance- Ive got a range of Irons but your video is the only one that gives insight to whats inside and how to get to it. Thanks.
Great video. Very clear and understandable. Did it work after the clean. I have to try this on mine. My r50 is like driving a tank. Thanks for the upload of this job 👍
Good question. Install planned and will definitely add a comment when we see the results.
With@@thomaswilding8818 we've now tested this PS pump back in my 2006 MINI Cooper S Checkmate R53. Please see my own comments elsewhere in thread here. I had swapped this PS pump out for a used, replacement PS pump, which was working in the MINI just fine, proving that my car's systems were working okay. We took that pump out, to re-fit our original pump, having been reconditioned by Thomas in this video. I am happy to say that it has been running... well, exactly as it should! Nothing else to report except that it works just fine. Thanks very much Thomas! If you've got an 'iffy' PS pump, it could be well worth a crack to have a go at reconditioning your own pump rather than simply replacing it, following Thomas' service instructions.
THis is awesome @thomaswilding8818
I tried to do something like this 2 years ago on an r53 pump and there where NO Resources. I'm not having PS problems again...this is invaluable.
I love to do this if the PS pump of my R53 fails than purchasing a new expensive PS PUMP, at least I believe that’s everything can be repaired, however I wish my PSP can hold up as long as I live with 🙏
Nice great vid, thank you
Thanks for the video, helped out a lot.
Hi, thanks for the video! My mini cooper s r53 pump would not shutdown even if i turn off ignition and remove key. It only stops when battery is removed! Any suggestions on what could be wrong? Also what fluid are u using to clean up, and what soldier should I use to re-attach?!
That is a common problem caused by the pump itself. But also check your battery box isn’t full of water. A thicker solder is easier. And one with flux easier also. I have not tried the lead free solder. I use crc precision CO contact cleaner.
Nice video. I think that there is excessive worn in rotor's slip ring.
My kind of job!! - cheers ------------- old got, UK
Expectacularmente bien explicado 👏👏
Grasias!
nice video, honestly it is....but question will this sort a leak, cause my mini is Leaking from the pump, recently changed the rack and the power steering pipes...so all that's left is the pump... Will it stop the leak or it's futile?
Nothing to sort leaks in this video. Start at the top and work down. Leaks can drip down to the pump. There's an o-ring around the reservoir cap that can leak. The cap also has a vent. Then hoses - clamps top and bottom of each.
Me olvidaba de donde llegan su alimentacion de los fusibles o de la ECU
Check fuse FL4 100A and F39 5A. No wiring diagrams in my haynes manual. I think power supply is off the battery via fuse FL4 (engine compartment fuse box). Switching and control from a module within the pump itself. Switched on when the ignition is on and alternator is charging. If the charging system dash light is off then the power steering pump is activated (yellow wire from dash light triggers PS pump) together with the ignition circuit on - fuse F39 (5A in foot well, green white wire). Violet white wire is the signal wire to ECU, ABS and OBD. That is the way it is meant to run. If dust creates a short then can run all the time. Conversely, if the alternator is not working then a good power steering pump will not run at all.
Maestro thanks You su cátedra es buena lo pondré en práctica ,por ahora lo desarme el colector del rebobinador está gastado los carbones pueden trabajar lo que nesecito son los valores de su módulo electrónico estoy por consultar a un electronico muchas gracias..
So that's the motor being cleaned. But what about rebuilding the pump??
Two 60012rs bearings, or only one? Need to change them all?
@@vladtymchak2021 2 bearings
@@thomaswilding8818 some change with noise after changing bearings?
@vladtymchak2021 i have not replaced bearings, myself. All were running smooth.
my pump just failed today. your excellent video couldn't come at a better timing!
just one question. what is the size of the bearing? would love to replace it while i'm in there.
No, I didn't take measurements sorry. My guess would be they are a common size. But neither of the pumps I rebuilt had a bearing problem.
@@thomaswilding8818 6001 2RS
I’m eager to give this a try I would’ve just bought a new one but everywhere has a surcharge with warnings about about tampering with the unit
If you have all the tools then you should try this it's worked for lots of people. If I had tools I would definitely try this my mini is like driving a truck at the moment
what size socket did you use to hit the bearing back together ?
@Stealth360stealth maybe a 12mm from memory.
Where can you buy all the electronic cards?
Thank you
Great video Thomas. I was wondering how I might go about testing the pump after I've finished repairing it, is there any way I can test the circuit is functioning properly other than placing it in the car? I think it only works if it has signal from the left-right sensors that connect to it. Any ideas?
Good question. I imagine it’s more than supplying power. If it works as a feedback loop, rather than a simple signal. That would require hydraulic connection as well. Might be worth setting up a test bench if you were doing many pumps.
Question... You mentioned at the end of the video the issue was getting the pump shaft keyed in with the drive motor, is that a tricky thing to do? Should the fluid impeller move around or be "wobbly" before it seats on the shelf?
No, not hard at all. Turn it until you feel the key drop into place. It's more that it would be easy to forget and then wonder why it didn't bolt together properly.
@@thomaswilding8818 ahh ok, I've completed the steps show and tested the motor without the fluid impeller section on to see the end of the shaft spin and it spins fine. I then refitted the end of the pump with the key and hose connector, refitted it back in the car and it doesn't work. I get a little bit of PAS at the start occasionally but then it dies away after a second 🤦 looks like I need a new unit...
@@thomaswilding8818 I wondered if I had not located the key properly on the shaft but it's magnetic so I assumed after a few twists it clicks in and I can bolt it down.
That's a pain. Only thing I can suggest is start over. Check wiring, fluid. If all good, check the pump again. It's very hard to get the motivation to go back to the start, I know.
@@thomaswilding8818 I will take another look at the weekend. Is there a method for bleeding the rack? Does it take a while to push the air through?
What is the tool you used to cut the solder connections?
@@Stealth360stealth precision side cutters or precision flush cutters.
Great video Thomas. thanks for posting this. Im in the process of rebuilding my psp. I am trying to get a replacement for these two small transistors marked f33 and f9 (yours are G76 and C67) but i couldnt find them anywhere no one seem to know of these codes.. do you have any equivalent specs that i can use to buy these transistors?
This page has some discussion of transistor part number - sounds like it's a 2N04H4 TO 220
www.mini2.com/threads/mini-cooper-steering-pump-definitive-solution.343394/
And that links to
dabongmini.blogspot.com/2018/10/mini-cooper-power-steering-pump-repair.html?m=1
Thank you very much Thomas..
Hi Tom, great video, helep me plis, what's the diode number?
Thanks you por su cátedra porfa que señales de voltajes y cuatos tierra o pulso debe de haver para funcionar. Ese motor
Hi friend, i thanks for this video, but i ve a problem after loosing , ambling the locker no entry
I don't understand. Perhaps the translation. Are you having trouble with door locks after repairing the power steering pump?
So my power steering pump squeals when turning was run dry by the previous owner? Could I get away with replacing inner bearing and cleaning it out
It could be bearings. But those don’t get any PS fluid. The other moving part is the pump itself (separate to the electric motor). In the video, it looks like an alloy block that is removed from the motor and laid to one side. That would be the other suspect component.
Thanks this helped a bunch
I have a Mini coopwr 2004. The P/S electric pump, keep running after turn off the engine. The pump don't stop until dreain the battery.
Yes that can be a symptom of dust build up. The pump is hardwired to the battery and dust can create a short that turns it on
It's the PS pump out of my R53 2006 MINI Cooper S Checkmate in this video, so I wanted to add comment as to what transpired.
Symptoms first... We had an alternator failure, and noticed the power steering had shut down. This was catalyst to do some long-awaited engine work. Hopefully when it all went back together, with a brand new alternator, the power steering pump would be fine, right?? Ahh, no! Initially on systems liven up the PS pump would continue to run when the ignition key was on auxiliary, whirring away constantly after shutting down the engine. At some point this stopped, and we thought (fingers crossed) everything was fine. But there'd be times when the PS system wouldn't start the pump, and steering was heavy. At other times, the PS pump worked just fine. I took the path of least resistance... and got another pump, before a discussion with Thomas revealed that he was keen to have a go at repairing it, to make this video.
The replacement PS pump was working in the MINI just fine, indicating that my car's systems were working okay... but we took that out to re-fit our original pump, having been reconditioned by Thomas Wilding. I am happy to say that it has been running... well, exactly as it should! Nothing else to report except that it works just fine. Thanks very much Thomas! If you've got an 'iffy' PS pump, it could be well worth a crack to have a go at reconditioning your own pump rather than simply replacing it, following Thomas' service instructions.
Thanks for the lending me the pump. Having the back to back test against the “new” pump in your car gives us a good comparison.
This is the response I was looking for. Just today noticed ps pump wasn't shutting off after I shut the engine down. Caught it immediately and started disconnecting the battery when the car was not in use. Honest opinion, was this more work then just replacing the pump, or would you say this is worth the time?
@@dcfsmustbestopped Definitely easier to simply replace with a new pump. This rebuild is about spending hours to save $$. But if you're replacing with a 2nd hand pump, then it's a bit of a gamble unless you know the replacement pump is good. I actually did the pump in my car as preventative maintenance.
@@thomaswilding8818 Thanks for the reply. I have all the symptoms you describe. Battery light is on and power steering pump runs when car is off. I just haven't noticed any actual impairment in the steering...yet. Gonna use your guide here and give this a go on my r50.
Cómo y dónde lo compraste amigo
Can I use a dead blow hammer instead of a rubber hammer I wasn’t able to remove the motor off and only damaged the rubber one
Be careful. You can damage the drive. But yes, it does need a hard hit to break them apart. If you have one, use a brass hammer or driver before trying a bare steel hammer.
10:21 can you share the part number of this component? Thank you.
Is it ON S52-?? I hope you could tell me. 😢
@@jeffb7584 ON MR2520L. Just just rebuilt another one today, so could check the numbers.
Hi Thomas, I am in the process of following your video, very helpful.. I have a question however:
Is it normal that there appears to be no gasket between the pump and motor assemblies? when I separated the two parts, the two metal faces were gluey with old fluid, and fluid leaked out of the pump through the hole where the motor shaft enters.. also the impeller (or whatever the motor mates with inside the pump) appears to wobble about freely inside the pump, as if its only the motor that holds it centralised. I am concerned that when i put the thing back together it will leak. any thoughts most appreciated.
Sounds about right. The only seal I recall is the one between black motor casing and the alloy body. (and the o-rings on the pipe flanges)
I cant hear you even with the volume all the way up ?
Great video. Trying to dignose my PSP issues at the moment. Mine seems to cut out as soon as the car gets up to temperature. Ill give this a go if all else fails
I considered putting thermal compound (arcticsilver) between the diode and transistors where they press flat against the plate. Probably should have followed through with that. All that dust - as well as causing electrical shorts - would compromise heat dissipation. And obviously heat is an issue, given bmw mounted a little fan to blow on the pump.
@@thomaswilding8818 that is a good idea though thermal compounds are often elecrically conductive so id be worry about it moving and shorting something else. Once ive rebuilt mine im going to build a heatshield to protect it from the manifold
Hi Thomas, I need to get in touch with you regarding my ps pump. It stays on and drains the battery. I am interested in rebuilding it as I don't want to gamble on a secondhand unit. I am located in Auckland
How can I help?
Hi mate, what's an acceptable value for parasitic current draw? Thankyou
Where abouts are you measuring draw? I can take a measurement same place on my car.
@@thomaswilding8818 I was measuring draw at the engine bay fusebox at the time and had the fusebox upside down, pulling the pump's fuse and then re installing while the car was in standby mode.
But easiest way would be to measure draw at the battery and then to pull the main connector from the pump.
Either way its going to be hassle so I appreciate why you won't want to test 😂, do you happen to have a spare pump as it would be easier to test on the bench if you've a 12V power supply or spare battery aswell?
@@warwickdean I was getting a total of 0.5 amps at the red battery wire, but suspect I woke the car up popping the bonnet. I saw 0.05 amp after waiting. I must say, I can leave the mini parked for weeks and the battery has enough juice to crank the engine, no problem. So I expect it has a much lower steady draw than say a jag. What sort of numbers are you getting?
@@thomaswilding8818 when the vehicle is armed, after 2 minutes, I get 31~35mA, if I unplug the pump mains, it drops by around 15mA. I would have presumed it should take 0-1mA and not 15mA but there's no reference for all the tolerances anywhere
@@thomaswilding8818 your car probably wasn't in sleep mode but yeah with wake I see around 0.6A (600mA). In sleep mode it should be 0.012A~0.034A (12mA~34mA), I managed to get a reference from a friend and his R53. Mine falls into that range if I unplug my power steering pump aswell, which makes me suspect the pump should draw probably 0-1mA in standby but I may be wrong.
I measured 034 ohms on the capacitors is that to low??
If you’ve got a capacitance setting on your multimeter, use that and check against microF written on the capacitor itself. My cheap meter doesn’t have that. Looking at resistance, they should all be about the same.
I think the diode is bad as im getting readings on all 3 connectors no matter what lead i use (red/black) ordered a new one ,not sure if its the right one
@@alexanderclifford9826 Makes sense. Cooling must be an issue with these, given it's pressed against the casing to make a heat sink. Please do share a link to the part you ordered in case that helps others.
Any thoughts on why the pump runs even when the car is off
No, not really. I could only go as far to say that shorts caused by the dust could manifest as all sorts of problems, depending on what shorted.
@@thomaswilding8818 thanks!