The bottom tank is removable at least it was on my pump. It’s not pressed on only glued with silicon type material, I cleaned away round the edge with a knife and also used IPA to loosen the silicon. It takes some time but tank starts to move, then used a screwdriver to pry it away from body I did break a small piece off but this helped by getting under the tank to ease off. When done simply reseal it back together
Google searched this and it was exactly what I was looking for! Have you noticed any leaks after reusing the band clamp? And if you replaced it, where did you purchase it from? Don’t think the conventional worm drive clamps would work.
@@isaacreed8621 I was inspecting car few days ago and there was absolutely no leaks. I reused my clam without any problems. If I remember correctly, there is large o-ring there to seal between pump body and reservoir. So clamp is mostly there to secure reservoir in place rather than to seal anything.
@@ArtursGarage That is right!! I remember the o-ring now lol. Also do you have any heating issues with the fluid? I see you have your return blocked off.
I did a Volvo power steering pump conversion on my 1999 Mercury Cougar V6 manual and have it on controller tied to switch on my radio harness for power and ground. The first pump I received had damage to the top of the pump and so water got into the computer chip and burned it out. The second time was a success for about 5 months until now with it just not turning back on. the pump is getting both good power and ground on the controller, switch, and main harness to the pump. It had been starting to turn off while I was driving and then working again for hours without issues. It sounds silent and doesn't feel like a bad bearing or sounded good otherwise. I do have a circuit breaker in place so maybe it is getting good voltage and not enough amperage. I do plan to bypass both the controller and/or the circuit breaker. I'll do the controller first to prevent any issues with over-amperage. I do have a very sufficient 250-amp alternator in place for the pump and subwoofer then a coming soon electric 12v A/C compressor conversion. I work at Advance Auto Parts, so I tested both the battery and alternator. The alternator was reading 14.4 volts no matter what at the battery. With both the pump and music turned on and on load or no load so I know I should have enough amperage at least to the breaker. The second pump I got had about 162,000 kilometers on it when I got it and purchased it from B-parts. I did take apart the faulty pump to confirm the chip was fried. It was and the upper bearing was non-existent except for 4 ball bearings. I found out that a heat gun and a box cutter type knife was more than enough to separate the bottom casing from the pump. I just cut along the edge of the casing and pumps side of casing and then used a heat gun and a flat head to slowly pry carefully along the edge and pulling them apart. Im just hoping its not another pump that I need.
Based on initial intermittent behavior you described I would suspect wire/connection problem maybe bad crimp terminal. I would check all the connections first. I hope you don't need new pump. Thank you for sharing tip on opening pump casing, it is good one. I use heat gun a lot but didn't think about using it in this case, sounds like no brainier after you mentioned it. I am intrigued about your plans for 12V A/C Conversion, it will be very tough on your alternator and performance may not be as good as the original belt driven one. Any particular reason you want to do it?
@arturkustusch1379 so I did bypass the controller today but it has not worked sometime tomorrow I plan on bypassing the circuit breaker to see if its amps I'm not getting. Now the reason for the A/C conversion is about the same as the pump conversion and its that I need a new A/C system anyways and cost for new oem parts is on par with converting it to fully electronic. My alternator is a 250 amp on 0 Gauge wire so I have plenty of power to run it and my power steering pump.
I've fixed the issue. It ended up being the circuit breaker. It has gotten water in the center through the bad end seal on the casing. Causing rust and corrosion to cause the spot weld for the metal switch to break off.
Unfortunately not, but it really looked like it was the same size except it was not sealed to allow fluid to lubricate it. I think chances for this one to fail are really low unless fluid gets badly contaminated.
I ran across your video getting ideas for my swap and you're the only person I've seen that has mounted it horizontally. Due to space constraints i was going to attempt it. Have you had any more issues with the bearing? I have the version with the remote mounted reservoir and was going to run it into the engine bay since there wont be much access where itll be mounted without removing a bunch of things.
Hello, pump is working great! No problems at all. After seeing it's design during repair I am certain it's orientation doesn't matter as long as tank is filled with fluid.
Thanks for sharing the video, Great to hear that you are daily using your converted ev JAG. Have you upgraded the charger, it would be great to see more videos on it.👍
Is that the stock orientation of the pump? I've never seen one on its side like that. Wondering if that could have contributed to the failure, although I don't have anything other than a wild hunch to support that.
No, it is not stock orientation. It is controversial and I did worry about it when I initially installed the pump without knowing how it was constructed. Now I doubt orientation has anything to do with bearing failure. Pump was much louder when I first installed it which suggests that bearing was already failing. It is working great and I am not going to worry about it. Time will tell :-)
I tried to bench test this pump before installing in the vehicle. after power ground and switched power was connected it only pulses over and over. I can feel it spinning in that moment and no grinding or anything else…is this no good? Seems like electronically it’s being stopped from spinning up not mechanically.
Do you have two main power supply wires connected (large plug) and one control wire from 3-pin plug connected to +12V? After you connect control wire, pump should start at 50%. If it doesn't, something is wrong. Make sure you have correct control wire connected.
@@ArtursGarage I do, the main power plug I have the ground and power stripped and jumper cables on them to the battery, then the 3 pin plug I used the ignition wire to power as well. The other two are can wires and are twisted together from the factory and are not connected. It just pulses on and off in two second intervals but never actually stays on and winds up. Any thoughts? Thanks for the reply
@@kolourblind3124 it sounds like you have everything connected properly. Two other twisted wires are for CAN Bus communication but they are only necessary is want full control for the pump to be able to adjust speed from 50% to 100%. I have personally tried 3 of those pumps and all worked fine without CAN (only 3 wires like you have) . If it cycles like you are describing, I fear that something is wrong with it and controller shuts it down to prevent more damage. Is it possible that you may have seized bearing? You may have to take it apart to investigate. If you do please make sure you read updated description below video as there is alternative way to disassemble without cutting cover. Good luck!
@@ArtursGarage I absolutely will check the updated info! Thanks. Is it possible it’s shutting down due to lack of fluid? Since I’m bench testing it? I think you could be onto something because I thought the same thing perhaps the bearing has seized. Even tried gently tapping as you would a starter in hopes to free something up to no avail. I will be taking it apart to investigate. Very much appreciated feedback! Thank you. I will keep you updated.
Ahhh I see, after reading your update I will definitely try that method. I have a heat gun and plastic pry tools that hopefully will keep me from cracking the tank as well. This is the exact pump I have. Sorry to ask but what’s “ipa”?
Nice work, I would however not trust the no-brand Amazon bearings. They are cheap Chinese bearings and in my experience wear out really fast. A proper NSK bearing is only double the price, and will last you much much longer, and give you peace of mind. Seems like you can easily replace it, but still might be worth looking into.
I agree, however I wanted to get something quickly to get car back on the road. I doubt this will last 15+ years but that's OK. Next time I will install better one.
@@nxxxxzn I could but I found no need. The other bearing is constantly lubricated by the hydraulic fluid and it is in shape. Pump is actually very quiet now, it was just phone mike which is very sensitive to this kind of noise. I cannot hear pump when I am inside of the car or outside.
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
very good explanation as always friend thanks
The inner bearing was noisy on mine, cutting and duct taping worked out great! Replaced both bearings, shaft seal and o ring.
Awesome! Mine is still going strong after repair ☺️
Great update and repair. Good to hear this car is your daily driver for over a year.
i did the same thanks for this video and thanks for the tips i cut the pump like you recommended! worked great
Great! I am glad it worked for you. Mine is going strong, very quiet after repair.
Awesome job!
Really like this build so far, looking to do something similar in the future.
Thank you Darien, glad to have you here.
The bottom tank is removable at least it was on my pump.
It’s not pressed on only glued with silicon type material, I cleaned away round the edge with a knife and also used IPA to loosen the silicon.
It takes some time but tank starts to move, then used a screwdriver to pry it away from body I did break a small piece off but this helped by getting under the tank to ease off.
When done simply reseal it back together
Thanks for the feedback. I did see silicone glue and did try to pry the cover off. Perhaps I was not patient enough, I am glad it worked for you.
If you don't mind, I will put description of your process below the video so others are aware.
Google searched this and it was exactly what I was looking for!
Have you noticed any leaks after reusing the band clamp? And if you replaced it, where did you purchase it from? Don’t think the conventional worm drive clamps would work.
@@isaacreed8621 I was inspecting car few days ago and there was absolutely no leaks. I reused my clam without any problems. If I remember correctly, there is large o-ring there to seal between pump body and reservoir. So clamp is mostly there to secure reservoir in place rather than to seal anything.
@@ArtursGarage That is right!! I remember the o-ring now lol.
Also do you have any heating issues with the fluid? I see you have your return blocked off.
I did a Volvo power steering pump conversion on my 1999 Mercury Cougar V6 manual and have it on controller tied to switch on my radio harness for power and ground. The first pump I received had damage to the top of the pump and so water got into the computer chip and burned it out. The second time was a success for about 5 months until now with it just not turning back on. the pump is getting both good power and ground on the controller, switch, and main harness to the pump. It had been starting to turn off while I was driving and then working again for hours without issues. It sounds silent and doesn't feel like a bad bearing or sounded good otherwise. I do have a circuit breaker in place so maybe it is getting good voltage and not enough amperage. I do plan to bypass both the controller and/or the circuit breaker. I'll do the controller first to prevent any issues with over-amperage. I do have a very sufficient 250-amp alternator in place for the pump and subwoofer then a coming soon electric 12v A/C compressor conversion. I work at Advance Auto Parts, so I tested both the battery and alternator. The alternator was reading 14.4 volts no matter what at the battery. With both the pump and music turned on and on load or no load so I know I should have enough amperage at least to the breaker. The second pump I got had about 162,000 kilometers on it when I got it and purchased it from B-parts. I did take apart the faulty pump to confirm the chip was fried. It was and the upper bearing was non-existent except for 4 ball bearings. I found out that a heat gun and a box cutter type knife was more than enough to separate the bottom casing from the pump. I just cut along the edge of the casing and pumps side of casing and then used a heat gun and a flat head to slowly pry carefully along the edge and pulling them apart. Im just hoping its not another pump that I need.
Based on initial intermittent behavior you described I would suspect wire/connection problem maybe bad crimp terminal. I would check all the connections first. I hope you don't need new pump. Thank you for sharing tip on opening pump casing, it is good one. I use heat gun a lot but didn't think about using it in this case, sounds like no brainier after you mentioned it.
I am intrigued about your plans for 12V A/C Conversion, it will be very tough on your alternator and performance may not be as good as the original belt driven one. Any particular reason you want to do it?
@arturkustusch1379 so I did bypass the controller today but it has not worked sometime tomorrow I plan on bypassing the circuit breaker to see if its amps I'm not getting. Now the reason for the A/C conversion is about the same as the pump conversion and its that I need a new A/C system anyways and cost for new oem parts is on par with converting it to fully electronic. My alternator is a 250 amp on 0 Gauge wire so I have plenty of power to run it and my power steering pump.
The other reason is its a manual car I I want zero drag on the belt system. I gutted my new power steering pump to use as an idler pulley.
I've fixed the issue. It ended up being the circuit breaker. It has gotten water in the center through the bad end seal on the casing. Causing rust and corrosion to cause the spot weld for the metal switch to break off.
@@pandalegends2738 Nice! I am glad you were able to fix it 💪
Thanks for doing this. Did you determine the dimensions of the other bearing while you were in there?
Unfortunately not, but it really looked like it was the same size except it was not sealed to allow fluid to lubricate it. I think chances for this one to fail are really low unless fluid gets badly contaminated.
@@ArtursGarage Thank you for replying. I did find another vid where he pointed out that it is in fact the same bearing dimensions w/o the shields.
Nice job done perfectly...
Thank you! Cheers!
I ran across your video getting ideas for my swap and you're the only person I've seen that has mounted it horizontally. Due to space constraints i was going to attempt it. Have you had any more issues with the bearing? I have the version with the remote mounted reservoir and was going to run it into the engine bay since there wont be much access where itll be mounted without removing a bunch of things.
Hello, pump is working great! No problems at all. After seeing it's design during repair I am certain it's orientation doesn't matter as long as tank is filled with fluid.
excellent information.
Thanks for sharing the video, Great to hear that you are daily using your converted ev JAG. Have you upgraded the charger, it would be great to see more videos on it.👍
Thanks, I have not replaced charger yet. I will probably upgrade it after I am done with brake booster.
Is that the stock orientation of the pump? I've never seen one on its side like that. Wondering if that could have contributed to the failure, although I don't have anything other than a wild hunch to support that.
No, it is not stock orientation. It is controversial and I did worry about it when I initially installed the pump without knowing how it was constructed. Now I doubt orientation has anything to do with bearing failure. Pump was much louder when I first installed it which suggests that bearing was already failing. It is working great and I am not going to worry about it. Time will tell :-)
Hello Artur. Love your conversion and beautiful ride. I have a 1996 Jag Vandenplas (XJ6). Thinking of EV conversion.
Thanks Rao. Your XJ6 is very similar car, therefore you you could similar approach. I am very happy with Lexus drive.
I tried to bench test this pump before installing in the vehicle. after power ground and switched power was connected it only pulses over and over. I can feel it spinning in that moment and no grinding or anything else…is this no good? Seems like electronically it’s being stopped from spinning up not mechanically.
Do you have two main power supply wires connected (large plug) and one control wire from 3-pin plug connected to +12V?
After you connect control wire, pump should start at 50%. If it doesn't, something is wrong. Make sure you have correct control wire connected.
@@ArtursGarage I do, the main power plug I have the ground and power stripped and jumper cables on them to the battery, then the 3 pin plug I used the ignition wire to power as well. The other two are can wires and are twisted together from the factory and are not connected. It just pulses on and off in two second intervals but never actually stays on and winds up. Any thoughts? Thanks for the reply
@@kolourblind3124 it sounds like you have everything connected properly. Two other twisted wires are for CAN Bus communication but they are only necessary is want full control for the pump to be able to adjust speed from 50% to 100%. I have personally tried 3 of those pumps and all worked fine without CAN (only 3 wires like you have) .
If it cycles like you are describing, I fear that something is wrong with it and controller shuts it down to prevent more damage. Is it possible that you may have seized bearing?
You may have to take it apart to investigate. If you do please make sure you read updated description below video as there is alternative way to disassemble without cutting cover.
Good luck!
@@ArtursGarage I absolutely will check the updated info! Thanks. Is it possible it’s shutting down due to lack of fluid? Since I’m bench testing it? I think you could be onto something because I thought the same thing perhaps the bearing has seized. Even tried gently tapping as you would a starter in hopes to free something up to no avail. I will be taking it apart to investigate. Very much appreciated feedback! Thank you. I will keep you updated.
Ahhh I see, after reading your update I will definitely try that method. I have a heat gun and plastic pry tools that hopefully will keep me from cracking the tank as well. This is the exact pump I have. Sorry to ask but what’s “ipa”?
a very interesting project. but what is the cost of the conversion?
It was just under $10k in all parts and materials plus a lot of hard work 😊
@@ArtursGarage I have great admiration for your work. Congratulations!🤩
Nice work, I would however not trust the no-brand Amazon bearings. They are cheap Chinese bearings and in my experience wear out really fast. A proper NSK bearing is only double the price, and will last you much much longer, and give you peace of mind. Seems like you can easily replace it, but still might be worth looking into.
I agree, however I wanted to get something quickly to get car back on the road. I doubt this will last 15+ years but that's OK. Next time I will install better one.
@@ArtursGarage i also would've replaced the other bearing. maybe it's the reason pump's still noisy?
@@nxxxxzn I could but I found no need. The other bearing is constantly lubricated by the hydraulic fluid and it is in shape. Pump is actually very quiet now, it was just phone mike which is very sensitive to this kind of noise. I cannot hear pump when I am inside of the car or outside.
Great videos and posts on the forum. Very informative and concise. Please read pm on fb and forum. Thanks.
Does the reservoir part turn? Could I take the strap off and twist it to a new position?
Yes, you can easily turn it into any orientation. You may even try without taking strap off. Good luck!
is this an AC or DC motor?
It is a weird one. Definitely not DC, some kind of AC which appears to be 4 phase.
👍😎
LLU = 2RS