they say that every machine has their soul, you and your car have been going through a lot and it's great to see you reviving it back to it's glory! keep it up man, great to see your progress! 🤟💯
Similar with the electric power steering system from Toyota, it doesn't use fluid though, it's just a motor that sits inline on your steering shaft and applies up to 200lbs of force on the output, then they just use a manual rack.
I have one in my EV swap and it's super annoying. Everything else on the car is a quite hum but this power steering pump is much louder. I'm replacing it with an electric rack
A couple things 1. If you buy this pump from a junk yard, spend a bit more and also buy the CEM(Under the glovebox) and the SWM(behind the steering airbag) and 12" of each and every harness. This way in the future you have the CAN car-configuration codes needed to vary your pump's speed.... 2. If you are a drifter and notice that this pump bogs down sometimes, it is because the pump is not being told by CAN to pump more volume of fluid to keep up with the quick turns. The pump itself can pump very high volumes and the pressure bypass is set to a lofty 1700PSI which is higher than most electric and belt pumps Trivia: The 2 gears that pump the fluid are only about an inch tall. Hence the 1700rpm minimum speed. The maximum speed is 4800rpm.
Finally somebody mentioning this. I have a Volvo C70 and the power steering pump accelerates when turning the steering wheel. And also mine sounds like its working at a faster rate when idling. Not sure if it's because there is no CAN bus communication and the pump runs at a "default" speed. Or because now it's a little bit more stressed pumping ATF fluid instead of the Pentosin CHF-202 / CHF11S that it was designed to run originally, which has less viscosity.
Opel / Vauxall also uses such electro-hydraulic pumps. However, these pumps are not designed to run at full capacity all the time. I recently changed the oil in this unit, I added Febi green mineral oil. You have done a great job switching to such a system!
Exactly the same with this Volvo/Ford-pump. It should not run continuous. In a Volvo C30/S40/50 and European Ford Focus mk2, when those cars get powerloss from the alternator, or when the 12V battery is bad. These pumps use A LOT of power and is only running in the exakt moment you turn your steering wheel, and if the ECU sees that the voltage drops when you start turning the steering wheel it will cut the power to the pump immediately and show "power steering malfunction" in the instrument cluster :p Very funny if you drive slowly in the city 🤣
Precisely because these pumps currently consume a lot of energy, the battery must be good and, of course, the alternator must charge the battery properly. I replaced the battery a year ago because it's bad to drive in the dark with the "flashing" headlights
Ah that sound :) I used similar pump that came out of Opel Zafira or Astra. It was made by TRW, reservoir had different shape, bottom part looks same, except it came with wires directly wired to the pump, no connectors on pump body . The Opel pump has an added benefit that it works without CAN, it has 3 signal wires, one is ground, the other I figured out to be "ignition" and "charging". It will work once power is applied to both of them but will ramp up very slowly, which meant that for 1st couple of seconds you had barely any power steering which was annoying. If power is 1st present on "ignition" and then on "charging" it will instantly go to normal speed. It also had a "fast" mode when it detected increased load it would double the speed. The coolest thing about those pumps is that they run absolutely cool: I had it in engine bay and after long driving fluid was lukewarm without any cooler. I calculated that it was robbing about 0.1 hp through alternator when driving in straight line, compared to stock pumps that at redline can rob like 10 hp or so it was amazing.
@frost.whatevs If you apply 12V first to the wire no.1 which I call "ignition" and then to the 2nd wire which I call "charging signal" then the pump will go to "idling" speed immidiately. If you apply power to both of them at same time 99% of times it would slowly ramp up the speed until max speed then back off to idle speed. If you cut the power to the "charging" wire the pump would slow down gradually. I beleive the idea behind that design was that if you have no charging then the power steering should not be working because it will speed up battery draining,
Instead of spending hundreds of dollars you can go to a junk yard and be done for $20. Thanks much for providing the part number and size of all fittings needed.
Thank you very much for this! I'm currently about to mount my Volvo V50 pump hidden behind the fender well. I have the one where there's a reservoir for the filler with a hose that leads to the main reservoir and the pump. I can't wait to be able to turn off my power steering for the track days and then back on when just driving on the streets!
have this saved for later. this is a much better solution for my ongoing s13 rustoration/reshell project than me considering figuring out how to make a manual rack from a different car work lol
Electric power steering is super nice imo. My jz block bracket for the power steering broke so I had to find alternative. I used a mr2 pump but planning on switching to MRS power steering this season. Makes the engine bay cleaner and a lot more room to work with
Great informative video!! I definitely want to do this install on my project manual steering car. I really appreciate your explanation of how you did the install with part numbers!!! I wish more car RUclipsrs shared this kind of detail.
Ive got a 98 Camaro roller project that Ive been debating on deleting power steering. The truck forward manifold setup for turbos on an LS basically forces AC delete. Your baller solution may have allowed me to keep my power steering and relocate my AC! I live in the desert and AC is manditory, lol. Legit video dude, and best of luck with your car!
Really badass video man! and whats even more badass is showing your mistake and how you fixed it, brilliant video. I for sure would have made the same mistake had I never watched this video
Literally doing this same pump for my current swap. Just not sure where I want to mount it yet. I just ordered some brake tuck stuff from chase bays too. Shoulda added those fittings to the order.
Mazda 3's of the same era also have an electric pump with reservoir integral. Ford/Mazda/Volvo were all in bed at the time so I'm sure there are others.
Try the fiat steering pump with the city drive feature. Comes with a switch turning it from normal to city drive mode…. best steering pump feature ever!
lol.. and where do you think its getting its power? From alternator maybe? With added losses since driving hydraulic pump directly is much more efficient than driving alternator and then via elelctric motor drive hydraulics. You got some perpetuum mobile going on there.
Did that in my Land Rover restoration project. Added a 555 30-sec delay timer and an LED to the dashboard to indicate when the pump was up to proper speed when ign was turned on
Thanks for the great video with all the information. For guys and gals that know what's up, that was everything you need to know plus a tragic reveal of your once beautiful car going MR HYDE. to its own Drifter Jekyl. New sub.
Hail bro, I've been following your videos for a while, I'm from Brazil, continue with this type of content, it's really cool... (and if it's possible to put subtitles on your videos in Portuguese it would help a lot to people who watch you from here Brazil 🇧🇷) we are together 🤙🏽🤙🏽
First vid I found of your channel. I have seen photos of the car on insta. Mad respect for putting it on a frame table to fix it. I figured itd either get junked for another chassis or used as a missile. And great vid on the PS pump, this is a swap Im planning soon on my Tbird drift project.
Might do this because of clearance issues on my 3sge beams swap. I don't think I'll mount in the cabin though due to the whirring noise. Might mount it near the frame rail or something
good information, I know I've heard of some people having problems when they mount these pumps to far from the rack. but that doesn't appear to be a issue for you. How is the weight/feedback of the system after going to the electric pump? I'd assume it's a little heavier than stock?
If you have very long lines the steering can get a bit soggy because of the flex in the lines. Important to have good quality lines that can handle the pressure.
You inspired me with this video, I am going to do this with my 2000 Mustang GT, and believe it or not, the pump is a Ford produced part! The fitting off my PS pump should mount directly according to another RUclipsr who put one of these pumps on their Foxbody Mustang, the only thing that has me worried is that my car has Hydroboost brakes, not sure how the pump will play with the brakes and the rack in series.
I'm willing to bet you could control that pump with pwm signal generator that refrences the speed sensor output. I know you could get a manual speed control module on Amazon with rotary switch and readout for about $15. For drift car, I guess it's not a big deal... but even electrical draw becomes parasitic by increased alternator drag. Measure the draw of the pump and be sure your pwm can output at that+20%.
I wonder if that would be worth stitching from conventional belt driven to something like that and it would be cool if it could also do a hydro boost system for boosted applications
It'll also gain you probably 10-20hp if other engine dyno channels are correct. Running a mechanical pump is a big draw, but adding a few dozen amps resistance to the alternator makes no difference at all. Can do electric water pump for the same benefit.
Random request if you ever see this; Can you stick a sound lever recorder app next to the pump to see how loud it is in decibels? Also does the pump get hot during normal operation or is it whatever
i know this video is like a year old, but braided an lines can handle a lot.. further more, if you use the nylon/ptfe braided an lines they are more than capable over running well over 1000psi. the mistake here was prop just that you ran low pressure rubber an line rather than nylon/ptfe. rubber is fine for oil coolers, fuel, cooling system and other "low"pressure stuff, but when you go high pressure you deffo need the nylon/ptfe version, i run 4AN nylon/ptfe lines on my brakes self made and honestly never once had an issue with them as long as ever part is fitted properly
I’m running out of space in the trunk of my Ek lol. Fuel swirl pot, fuel cooling tank, fire suppression tank (ITBs with stand off injection) accusump, and now I want to do this to my now looped p/s rack. Every aftermarket kit is like 1500+ this is soooo reasonable why isn’t everyone doing this!
3/8” BSP is just a tad too big. Grab a male/male adapter, skim off 0.15mm off the thread and it die’s okay at 16mm by 1.5mm. A Dowty washer looks okay on the face. *the cheap Chinese tap and die set wins again :o) Big spade connectors are the yellow size and the small trigger one is the ickle red spade. I just need to watch the vid for the pin-outs. Could of done with a clear shot of that in the vid. I got mine for £55. Wish me luck :D Mitsubishi fork truck steering valve should be here Monday . . .
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey guys, ended up making an updated version to this video which can be found here:
ruclips.net/video/7aaHQS1srnI/видео.html
What amazes me is that the car got absolutely demolished and upon "minor" repairs just said meh. Thats impressive. Good luck on the repairs dude !
they say that every machine has their soul, you and your car have been going through a lot and it's great to see you reviving it back to it's glory! keep it up man, great to see your progress! 🤟💯
yoooo i love the straight forward steps your giving, everyone else just rambles on about useless crap and this was a very good explained video
Very useful for electric conversions. The delay on power-on is probably from the control module waiting for a CAN signal.
Similar with the electric power steering system from Toyota, it doesn't use fluid though, it's just a motor that sits inline on your steering shaft and applies up to 200lbs of force on the output, then they just use a manual rack.
I have one in my EV swap and it's super annoying. Everything else on the car is a quite hum but this power steering pump is much louder. I'm replacing it with an electric rack
@@skudak Where is the pump located in the car? Have you tried some sound deadening and rubber mountings?
@@gsilva220 it's in my engine bay with rubber dampeners. It's just a loud pump no matter what, I'd need to build an enclosure to muffle the sound.
A couple things 1. If you buy this pump from a junk yard, spend a bit more and also buy the CEM(Under the glovebox) and the SWM(behind the steering airbag) and 12" of each and every harness. This way in the future you have the CAN car-configuration codes needed to vary your pump's speed.... 2. If you are a drifter and notice that this pump bogs down sometimes, it is because the pump is not being told by CAN to pump more volume of fluid to keep up with the quick turns. The pump itself can pump very high volumes and the pressure bypass is set to a lofty 1700PSI which is higher than most electric and belt pumps Trivia: The 2 gears that pump the fluid are only about an inch tall. Hence the 1700rpm minimum speed. The maximum speed is 4800rpm.
Wow, that is great information!
The next time I am at a junk yard I will snag a few of those CAN BUS modules!
Finally somebody mentioning this. I have a Volvo C70 and the power steering pump accelerates when turning the steering wheel. And also mine sounds like its working at a faster rate when idling. Not sure if it's because there is no CAN bus communication and the pump runs at a "default" speed. Or because now it's a little bit more stressed pumping ATF fluid instead of the Pentosin CHF-202 / CHF11S that it was designed to run originally, which has less viscosity.
@@PrizzaMike one other thing. The CEM and the EPS have to match because they compare the Configuration ID stored in each.
@@marinelifer1752 how hard is it to make those work with a car that doesn't have provisions for canbus?
Would this work in a my e36 ?
RUclips actually suggested something good! This was awesome. No blah blah blah for 15 minutes before showing the process. Thank you! Subscribed!
🙌🙂
I just found your channel last week and have to say that I really respect the work you're putting in to save a car you love
Opel / Vauxall also uses such electro-hydraulic pumps.
However, these pumps are not designed to run at full capacity all the time.
I recently changed the oil in this unit, I added Febi green mineral oil.
You have done a great job switching to such a system!
Exactly the same with this Volvo/Ford-pump. It should not run continuous.
In a Volvo C30/S40/50 and European Ford Focus mk2, when those cars get powerloss from the alternator, or when the 12V battery is bad. These pumps use A LOT of power and is only running in the exakt moment you turn your steering wheel, and if the ECU sees that the voltage drops when you start turning the steering wheel it will cut the power to the pump immediately and show "power steering malfunction" in the instrument cluster :p
Very funny if you drive slowly in the city 🤣
Precisely because these pumps currently consume a lot of energy, the battery must be good and, of course, the alternator must charge the battery properly.
I replaced the battery a year ago because it's bad to drive in the dark with the "flashing" headlights
This is an insane modification. Never seen something so simply done that makes such a difference.
Ah that sound :) I used similar pump that came out of Opel Zafira or Astra. It was made by TRW, reservoir had different shape, bottom part looks same, except it came with wires directly wired to the pump, no connectors on pump body . The Opel pump has an added benefit that it works without CAN, it has 3 signal wires, one is ground, the other I figured out to be "ignition" and "charging". It will work once power is applied to both of them but will ramp up very slowly, which meant that for 1st couple of seconds you had barely any power steering which was annoying. If power is 1st present on "ignition" and then on "charging" it will instantly go to normal speed. It also had a "fast" mode when it detected increased load it would double the speed. The coolest thing about those pumps is that they run absolutely cool: I had it in engine bay and after long driving fluid was lukewarm without any cooler. I calculated that it was robbing about 0.1 hp through alternator when driving in straight line, compared to stock pumps that at redline can rob like 10 hp or so it was amazing.
What model of opel pump did you use?
@@hotrod4d i don't know a model name unfortunately, just the cars they came from
@frost.whatevs If you apply 12V first to the wire no.1 which I call "ignition" and then to the 2nd wire which I call "charging signal" then the pump will go to "idling" speed immidiately. If you apply power to both of them at same time 99% of times it would slowly ramp up the speed until max speed then back off to idle speed. If you cut the power to the "charging" wire the pump would slow down gradually. I beleive the idea behind that design was that if you have no charging then the power steering should not be working because it will speed up battery draining,
That’s a car you can never sell and must keep forever to tell your grandkids what it’s been through 🙌🏼
Instead of spending hundreds of dollars you can go to a junk yard and be done for $20. Thanks much for providing the part number and size of all fittings needed.
Thank you very much for this!
I'm currently about to mount my Volvo V50 pump hidden behind the fender well. I have the one where there's a reservoir for the filler with a hose that leads to the main reservoir and the pump.
I can't wait to be able to turn off my power steering for the track days and then back on when just driving on the streets!
That's awesome! 🤘
Feel free to send over a pic on Instagram, I love seeing other people's projects 🔥
have this saved for later. this is a much better solution for my ongoing s13 rustoration/reshell project than me considering figuring out how to make a manual rack from a different car work lol
this was actually a very nice and explanatory tutorial!!
Keep up the good work man, hope you will manage to revive your car!
Electric power steering is super nice imo. My jz block bracket for the power steering broke so I had to find alternative. I used a mr2 pump but planning on switching to MRS power steering this season. Makes the engine bay cleaner and a lot more room to work with
Great informative video!! I definitely want to do this install on my project manual steering car. I really appreciate your explanation of how you did the install with part numbers!!! I wish more car RUclipsrs shared this kind of detail.
Ive got a 98 Camaro roller project that Ive been debating on deleting power steering. The truck forward manifold setup for turbos on an LS basically forces AC delete.
Your baller solution may have allowed me to keep my power steering and relocate my AC! I live in the desert and AC is manditory, lol. Legit video dude, and best of luck with your car!
I've got 1 of these in my S13, works great with some chase bays lines, mine is mounted on the lf frame rail
The old battery tray is slick.
Legit video. Thank you chap.
Really badass video man! and whats even more badass is showing your mistake and how you fixed it, brilliant video. I for sure would have made the same mistake had I never watched this video
Literally doing this same pump for my current swap. Just not sure where I want to mount it yet. I just ordered some brake tuck stuff from chase bays too. Shoulda added those fittings to the order.
I was thinking about this pump. Just couldn't decide between this and a Prius pump. Also I finally got your t shirt. Feels nice man. Good quality
I've been curious about the Prius pump as well!
And awesome! I appreciate your support 🤘
Nice man, I love seeing new out of the box methods for our cars. You had some real faith in that RB25 driving across the country!!
Mazda 3's of the same era also have an electric pump with reservoir integral. Ford/Mazda/Volvo were all in bed at the time so I'm sure there are others.
Thank you for this comment!
Ive now got factory power steering and that makes me happy
Hats off to you man! Very inspiring and im glad youre still here, able to make vids of your restoration. You are the real life Akio Asakura💪subbed!
oh shit! the t-boned 240 still alive after that accident! damm keep on drifting!
Great video. Thanks for posting the part numbers in the description!
I got excited thinking it was an update on the repair.
Good mod all the same.
Sorry! Next video will be a repair update, I promise 🤘
@@PrizzaMike no worries man.
I'm enjoying your journey.
I actually do have this exact 240, and I do want to eventually do things to it so thank you for teaching this to me👍
Try the fiat steering pump with the city drive feature. Comes with a switch turning it from normal to city drive mode…. best steering pump feature ever!
We use the same setup on a 87 bronco with 38.5 boggers. No HP robbed. 3 wire hook up.
lol.. and where do you think its getting its power? From alternator maybe? With added losses since driving hydraulic pump directly is much more efficient than driving alternator and then via elelctric motor drive hydraulics. You got some perpetuum mobile going on there.
came here from your tiktok your doing great man!
Nice. I did this to my 86' suzuki samurai with a prius power steering a couple weeks ago
Did that in my Land Rover restoration project. Added a 555 30-sec delay timer and an LED to the dashboard to indicate when the pump was up to proper speed when ign was turned on
Dang this gives me ideas for several cars that i own! Great project and idea!
Very useful. I will add this knowledge to my bank of data.
Thanks for the great video with all the information. For guys and gals that know what's up, that was everything you need to know plus a tragic reveal of your once beautiful car going MR HYDE. to its own Drifter Jekyl.
New sub.
Hail bro, I've been following your videos for a while, I'm from Brazil, continue with this type of content, it's really cool... (and if it's possible to put subtitles on your videos in Portuguese it would help a lot to people who watch you from here Brazil 🇧🇷) we are together 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Right on black man ✊🏽
Thank you for sharing this. All the best with your project(s) and YT channel!
I wanna do this in my r33 my rb pump is shot too! This is a sweet conversion
very interesting setup. i like it but i seems to be very noisy... did it ?
First vid I found of your channel. I have seen photos of the car on insta. Mad respect for putting it on a frame table to fix it. I figured itd either get junked for another chassis or used as a missile.
And great vid on the PS pump, this is a swap Im planning soon on my Tbird drift project.
This is rather impressive... not even questionable 🔥🔥
Awesome mod I love watching these types of vids
Might do this because of clearance issues on my 3sge beams swap. I don't think I'll mount in the cabin though due to the whirring noise. Might mount it near the frame rail or something
If you don’t want to buy a pre made line you can always use PTFE AN line and it’s pretty cheap. Standard AN will blow every time. I did the same thing
Thank you for this video! Super helpful.
Bro nice video! 13 days with 54k views. Keep kicking ass dude
good information, I know I've heard of some people having problems when they mount these pumps to far from the rack. but that doesn't appear to be a issue for you. How is the weight/feedback of the system after going to the electric pump? I'd assume it's a little heavier than stock?
I would say the hydraulic pump is overall easier to turn the wheel at parking lot speeds, but other than that I could not tell a difference!
If you have very long lines the steering can get a bit soggy because of the flex in the lines. Important to have good quality lines that can handle the pressure.
You inspired me with this video, I am going to do this with my 2000 Mustang GT, and believe it or not, the pump is a Ford produced part! The fitting off my PS pump should mount directly according to another RUclipsr who put one of these pumps on their Foxbody Mustang, the only thing that has me worried is that my car has Hydroboost brakes, not sure how the pump will play with the brakes and the rack in series.
Thanks, looking for a way to put power steering in my 31 ford Hot Rod, great information.,👍
Thanks for taking the time to explain this !!!!!!
wild i found you on facebook years ago as it was shared how your car got hit and im looking into eps and find this video ... small world lol
@@4door_papi small world indeed
I did make an updated version to this video here: ruclips.net/video/7aaHQS1srnI/видео.html
@@PrizzaMike thx bud ill check it now
love the videos dude. Can't wait to see the progress on the 13 soon.
That’s a neat upgrade
Need for an oil cooler or cooling fan for the pump? Very very nice and simple setup.. I like it!!
I'm willing to bet you could control that pump with pwm signal generator that refrences the speed sensor output. I know you could get a manual speed control module on Amazon with rotary switch and readout for about $15. For drift car, I guess it's not a big deal... but even electrical draw becomes parasitic by increased alternator drag. Measure the draw of the pump and be sure your pwm can output at that+20%.
Thanks! Got all the answers I needed!
I wonder if that would be worth stitching from conventional belt driven to something like that and it would be cool if it could also do a hydro boost system for boosted applications
That's awesome. Might try this myself!
That's ninja!
I have mine up and running now, working from the Haltech Nexus keypad. When it fires up it sounds like a helicopter lol
That thing rips 🤟👍
Good video man looks cool also can't wait to see the car drifting again
You might just have made my project car even better
earnec a sub! good luck,dude
Awesome explanation I plan on doing this on my R32!! Keep up the good work hope you save the s13
Looks just like the pump on my mk2.5 ford focus diesel :))
It'll also gain you probably 10-20hp if other engine dyno channels are correct. Running a mechanical pump is a big draw, but adding a few dozen amps resistance to the alternator makes no difference at all. Can do electric water pump for the same benefit.
Really neat setup! Cool shit!
Great video sir. Like really well done.
Random request if you ever see this;
Can you stick a sound lever recorder app next to the pump to see how loud it is in decibels? Also does the pump get hot during normal operation or is it whatever
Definitely gonna be doing this for my car
Very nice, first time i see something like that 👌
This is awesome! THANK YOU!!
i know this video is like a year old, but braided an lines can handle a lot.. further more, if you use the nylon/ptfe braided an lines they are more than capable over running well over 1000psi. the mistake here was prop just that you ran low pressure rubber an line rather than nylon/ptfe. rubber is fine for oil coolers, fuel, cooling system and other "low"pressure stuff, but when you go high pressure you deffo need the nylon/ptfe version, i run 4AN nylon/ptfe lines on my brakes self made and honestly never once had an issue with them as long as ever part is fitted properly
Great info! Thanks for your input 🙏
@@PrizzaMike no worries, i just hopenit helps for future stuff (if you hadnt come across the info in the mean time👌🏼) 💪🏼 rest was 🔥
Now I want this setup
Nice thanks for this man ! Always love watching your videos 🙏🏾
Does that free up 5-10 hp when going to electric power steering?
Seriously considering doing this to my old monte carlo. Tired of going through old/reman hydraulic pumps every year or so
Shit !!!! You are a drift genius! That's bad ass mod, thanks for the video.
Definitely doing this do my s14 👏👏👏
I’m running out of space in the trunk of my Ek lol. Fuel swirl pot, fuel cooling tank, fire suppression tank (ITBs with stand off injection) accusump, and now I want to do this to my now looped p/s rack. Every aftermarket kit is like 1500+ this is soooo reasonable why isn’t everyone doing this!
Great video! Thanks for all the info. 👍
3/8” BSP is just a tad too big. Grab a male/male adapter, skim off 0.15mm off the thread and it die’s okay at 16mm by 1.5mm. A Dowty washer looks okay on the face. *the cheap Chinese tap and die set wins again :o) Big spade connectors are the yellow size and the small trigger one is the ickle red spade. I just need to watch the vid for the pin-outs. Could of done with a clear shot of that in the vid. I got mine for £55. Wish me luck :D Mitsubishi fork truck steering valve should be here Monday . . .
Haha, doing this right now on my 31 coupe. But using the Holden Astra power steering pump.
Aussie stuff nice
@@cainadkins3985 yeh mate!
I have the same setup on my car and it seems to catch when I try to steer real fast. Did you ever encounter this problem?
Awesome now I can fix my car
is this like, a noticable difference from the stock power steering or just more about tidyness and being cheaper then an rb pump?
That's a sick mod dude 👌
I have the same pump in my rx7 it’s quite rad
Wow, amazing. I need this.
This is dope. Good job
Hello from Russia
Thanks man I was wondering what that was.
great video man ! helping out me and a lot of people haha
I have a TT Z32 would this be an upgrade if I did the same thing?
So the electric power steering still requires fluid? What is the advantage of having electricity involved?