slow down to go fast! a great thing. Eric O also touts that. Prepare a plan for what you want to check and think about what you're anticipating to see on the scope, scan tool etc. This is the fundamentals for any troubleshooting for any trade. When you master this, you can accomplish so much more on so many topics. Paul you always do a great job driving this method home for your audience and the results speak for themselves.
Mr. Danner.... that happiness in your voice, when you find the cause of that trouble, shows that you enjoy and feels passion like the first time you were successful finding the solution to that class of problems. Thanks for that passion and keep doing that way!!!
I tested ground and power using the body ground on the door. So I mistakenly thought I had a good circuit. NOPE! Got the pump to run off a ground from the trailer electrical connector 😞
Indeed it's been a very very long time at Pete's, really nostalgic I remember all the great lectures you've produced from this place over the years, Simply AWESOME👍🏻 THANKS FOR SHARING SD😍 SPECIAL THANKS TO CAMERAMAN CALEB😎 STAY BLESSED GUY'S❤️
I still solder and heat shrink , been doing it for 30 plus years as a professional . Hasn't let me down yet and yes I work in the rust belt. You are a great teacher and have a great you tube channel.
Great video guys ! Good to see you back in the field doing Diagnostics..I truly believe it’s these type videos that put you where you are today …thanks Paul and Kaleb ..team effort that’s the best
Me too on this. I watched all of your older videos and learned so much. I am retired now and would really appreciate knowing more about the bidirectional capabilities of the Topdon scantool as that one is in my price range $1000 and perhaps compared it to the Launch tool. Again thanks for a great education in diagnostics.
When I do not have brush on electrical tape, I use RTV. I warm it to cure it more quickly. But it has to be the RTV that does not smell like vinegar (acetic acid) as this is corrosive. I use ultra grey as it is oxime based and non corrosive to metal.
Pete’s garage? A SnapOn scan tool? It’s gonna b a great Saturday. In one of your recent videos, I think u mentioned it’s hard to beat the SnapOn for its recording features and other good things about it. I have been using my old Verus a little more. I forgot to mention Caleb and his skill set!! Thank u both!!
Well Done, You guys are doing brilliant, and your son is perfect in editing the videos and highlighting key words and functions on your scanner footage, Once again Thank You So Much.
the sun is shining, the kids are nice to each other, my wife looks fantastic AND an SD video at Pete's!! This should be a beautiful day. Happy Sunday everyone!
Sunday morning , cold n wet here in NZ but coffee's hot and watching a SD video what better way to start the day. Thanks to you both for making this happen.
i've seen the green crusties wick up a foot and a half into a wire. its a pain but i cut and strip till i get clean copper no black or green. best thing i ever used was butyl tape. years ago it was available through euclid heavy duty. nasty sticky crap but it worked like nothing else
I use clear nail polish to brush over my probing holes that I pierce into wires when testing. I repair a fleet and never had one corrode later on, I'm the one that'd work on it if they did....
Is that because of whatever reason ecu gives command to ignition and fuel pump to stop functioning? But if computer wants not running engine than it should disable injection pulse right? I'm confused...
It's a direction based test! If I also have no spark, there would be zero reason to crawl underneath this van to check pump powers and grounds, because it wouldn't be there! Make sense?
I agree with you about starting either. It is so volatile that I've seen the hot wire on the MAF sensor ignite it and actually blow up the air cleaner housing. Way back I cranked over a car that was towed in and had so much either in it you could smell it across the parking lot. There was an explosion that blew the valve covers off of the engine.
I see this all the time, from all over the world. Customer thinks they can handle it and change the pump after some Google searches for no fuel pressure
@@ScannerDanner I totally get that, not to to long ago I had a crank no start on fusion I believe it was. Customer had installed a new fuel pump and a bunch of other parts and couldn't get it to start. The thing was out of fuel, best part was the fuel light was on. Then about a month agoI had a crank no start on a Nissan. It again had several parts thrown at it, it had no fuel or spark. It was 4qts low on oil, added 4qts of oil and it fired right up. Can't get tunnel vision on one system,. Far to often I see guys chasing codes that were set due to a result and not the cause.
Paul I got one for you, I changed the fuel pump on my 89 F150, I put everything back together truck would crank, but not start, I check for power and ground at the pump, the fuel pump would work if you took jumper wires and hooked it to a car battery, but wouldn't work if connected to the truck harness. Something told me to check the wires at the pump, the wires on the pump were crossed. I switched the wires truck started right up. Always do a visual inspection
You're 100% right on the challenges rust belt techs see that other regions don't. I see stuff you, Eric O and others work on and the issues you face are dramatically different. I'm in CA and the moment I look underneath a car and see it's an east coast car my entire troubleshooting mindset changes. In other words, we're spoiled haha. Great lesson as always man!
My first move on those old Ford trucks was to slide under it and confirm that the FPM and wiring were corroded. They picked the worst possible place to mount a module with an aluminum housing. It helps to spray the module and connections with something to protect them from salt water and humidity.
Hi Dan. So. I get all that. I'm really appreciating your work .👍🏻 l fallow circuits . Electronics hard wire .wireless. alarms so knowing that . Power supply is some what all ways an issue. Video signals are the same . Everything comes back to a central station . We can find voltage drop bad contacts . Bad components. We some times have to find control switches or other issues. So we can do & replace or repair every thing in front of situation. So why is finding or replacing /repairing so Dam difficult. Please lm just asking yeah lm good at what l do as you are 👍🏻
19:57 careful, you're gonna trigger the soldering purists! No crimping, we must solder so the joint will become brittle and break again in a few years.
Are you in PA ? If so would you be willing to look at my van im living in and help me figure out why its a weird sound when letting off the gas as im driving maybe make a video of it i wouldn't mind driving to you i stay around DC
I noticed a blinking red light under the steering column. Even when the key was turned off, maybe we have an alarm system issue that was hooked up to the fuel pump?? This is only a thought at this point I have not seen you attack a fuel pump yet.
uhoh, probably a triton 3v and needs heads.... 🤣🤣 **joking aside, fuel inertia switch tripped? (or computers/modules stopping it). after seeing it's a work van, it's likely been bumper banged endless times. lol
I solved a intermittent no start problem on a E350 2012 recently, it was the SRS Module under driver seat. The communication with the fuel pump went through the srs module and since the srs module was completely rusty, the signal could not pass.
I'm old enough to remember working at Ford and having to go through those giant breakout boxes. They were better than poking holes in wires, even in Southern California - we did have that coastal strip that extended 10 miles inland. I've seen some sh*t. I also remember those rollover valves. Great in theory; in execution, not so much. A traffic or speed bump could set them off. I can't remember if that light duty black/gray wire was for radio interference, but I think it was. Maybe still is, although you'd like to think we're beyond that, these days. Remember when certain cars would get to intersections and die because of the communications equipment interference with the early PCMs? I only have vague recollections of that, since it was early enough in the production of whatever make/model of car it was, and it wasn't my make/model of car.
So you can actually see that it's shielded on the diagram: (11:23)... I believe that dotted circle around the FPRNT wire indicates that it is shielded; you can even see where it ties to that other ground wire: where it says NCA. I was wondering what they symbolism was (the dotted circle).. Now I just deduced that it must be a symbol for shielding- it makes perfect sense now. its so confusing when you see stuff like that and you don't know what it means. But I do now. :)
I find myself with a new fuel pump that's not pumping I can hear it run when I turn on the key, But pressure gauge shows Nothing Having just put everything back together, I really don't want to go through that again - Yet! I dug out a 12vdc diaphragm pump and thought maybe giving it a Prime - "Kick start it" (I'm cut, bruised, beat up, & down right Pooped, I'm in No hurry!) What do You Think Paul, is it worth a Shot?
@@ScannerDanner It has a cabled harness But I do know where the power pins are First pin to the left is Bk DC - power, (2nd pin) Red DC + power "On the CCRM, Power to the pump is Pin #5" (I'm use to the L1 & L2 AC supply leads) lol thx Paul
With a fuel system, that would have to be GDI systems that may use that terminology as there is a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump. I don't know, I'm not sure I've heard that term applied to a fuel system. But the ignition system, the primary circuit is what creates the magnetic field to collapse around the secondary windings to make spark. Anything on the spark side is the secondary. It starts at the coil and includes plugs and wires. The primary would be the 12v side that is switched on and off by a module or ECM Also, you could call a relay as having a primary and secondary. Again terms not used, but technically it would be correct. The primary would be your low current side and the secondary would be the load carrying higher current side.
As usual SD !!! Another great teaching !!! I have got to upgrade my scanner !!! I love the fact that it has everything at your disposal... Keep up the Videos and Training !!! Love you guys and God bless !!!
The information system I was using is not tied to the tool. It is called ShopKey Pro (Mitchell On-Demand) and it runs about $160 a month for the program. Not cheap. If you are a DIY guy and just need it for a few cars a month, you can purchase the info (same as I use) for individual cars for $20 for a months access and I believe you can print too? Pass that off to your customers eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Paul, Before you begin think: If this is hard, I'm probably doing this wrong and if this is expensive, I'm probably doing this wrong. Most repairs are not that hard. Another great video. Keep up the good work.
Oh Man, Altho we didn't get him on camera, it's Great to see another video from Pete's Garage. 😊 Got another viewers tip for ya...store that liquid tape upside down. That'll keep it from drying out as easily. I'm sure you've probably heard that one before. Lol Thanks for another great video bro. Cheers 😎👍
Man I miss working in the shop. I don't miss an aching back and torn up hands every day, so I do it for fun now. There is something awesome about being in the shop with some great co-worker's, good tunes (heard the Journey playing), and the vehicle isn't fighting you.
With these early to mid 2000 trucks n vans if I see them at work one of the 1st things I do it look at the FP driver modules/wiring. Very common fault on these Gravy work up here in Canada
Many times I find soldering old wire nearly impossible do to the surface corrosion of the copper. In the salt water marine environment we have better luck with the crimp connectors with heat shrink and hot glue. There are times we have to run new wire from one end to the other because the corrosion has traveled all of the way up and even turning the wire to copper dust. We also use a product to coat open connections, battery terminals, and metal parts called Linebacker from Zep. It is an anti corrosion spray that dries to what I think is some kind of wax. I also use it on and in connectors if I think they might be subject to salt water spray or bilge water. Good for battery connections also. I don't think any plug connection can be made mechanically salt proof. Just one grain of it will do a lot of damage on electrical systems.
You said "it's interesting that it's often the power that corrodes, and not the ground" -- That's not always true-- and it depends on the type of metals that you're dealing with. It's known as "galvanic corrosion" and there is a range of "noble metals" that can react differently depending on how you arrange the different metals in a circuit. For example how they put a sacrificial anode on boats (usually zink I believe) to save it from corroding. Practical Engineering did a pretty good video explaining all this stuff, called: "These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust"
With copper wire on negative ground cars, it's always the 12v side that'a corroded. Real old cars were positive ground (I may be using the wrong terms here) but the block and frame would have been 12v or maybe 6v at the time. Anyway, I wonder if those corroded differently
@@ScannerDanner You should watch that video explaining nobel metals though. It's worth your time. called: These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust
I am all for the splice sleeves with the adhesive in them too. It's quick and easy. The key is, don't buy the cheapest ones you can find. I look at it this way, when I worked for GM, they used to supply those sleeves in connector repair kits for a reason. They work, when done correctly. It is also important to have a good set of crimpers. I bought a set online about 10 years ago that are identical to the ones GM supplied us with in our electrical tool kit. They work awesome, a perfect crimp every single time.
I've been searching for info on the reason for this type of system, I was working on a 2010 expedition and the pcm was not sending out a signal to the fuel pump control module. Turned out the circuit on the board of the pcm was burned. All i had to do was to clean then jump the burned part of the circuit. But I've always wondered why there was no fuel pressure sensor on the rail, how does the pcm know what command to tell the the fuel pump module. Now it makes sense. Thank you for sharing this paul!
Michigan(road salt during the winter)eats those modules up like candy. On those Ford trucks after i check for spark and fuel pressure like you did i usually make a bee line for the module (they split) since that issue is so common, as well as the wire corrosion issues.
I'm with ya on the starting fluid issue. Except that I refuse to use it and you cannot find a can of it in my shop. It's way too easy to use my KV paddle to check for ignition (sometimes) LOL.
Another simple repair. Almost as simple as those blown GM fuses! Sure glad I live south of the MD line! I and a lot of others drive GM trucks so I'll be sure to remember those.
That Tessa tape is worth every penny for wrapping harnesses. The fabric tape is also quite good if you need more flexibility, or your on the interior near chaff areas.
My concern with the connectors has been damage to the area that gets 'squeezed'...breaking the surface. I'm thinking now that if a good crimper is used, that area of the tool is flat and more broad reducing the risk of breaking through. Anyone have thoughts on this without making me feel stupid:)
absolutely! And my crimpers will break the surface at times too, but the crimp connectors I use will ooze the adhesive out of that small hole too. I've only had one comeback on me in all the years of using them and it was from exactly what you are referring to. I crimped it too hard and it broke in that location again after about a year or so.
@ScannerDanner Never considered the coverage offered by the connector...it's not only at the ends. You have a great deal to be proud of with Caleb and have nothing but respect for you as a father. Hope to meet one day at a training event. God bless from a dad, tech and shop owner - Toronto Canada.
@@ScannerDannersame people that voted for biden lol wouldnt be shocked if they rigged PA elections just like they did federally at least they didnt charge dr oz for doing too many surgerys lol
Each Day I watch your Videos I get more valuable experience in the Vehicle Diagnosis and I'm sure I will be professional Auto Technician. Thanks Danner ❤❤❤
Always learning from you bro, thanks from SoCal! Love your teaching style, practical and real world stuff for us road techs. Been using those heatshrink crimp connectors for a few years and they’re great! But we don’t have rust…
I am one of those southern boys, glad I don't wrench up north! 🤣😂🤣😂
Ya it will give u a whole new look at a Subaru especially when you have to replace rear cv shafts due to being seized in the bad wheel bearing.
@@claytoncoolidge992 I’ve gotten my hands on a few rust belt Subarus, down from the NC mountains. Not a fun time, but have gotten them done.
@@MrSubaru1387 ya u want some Michigan rust? 😂😂😂 can send it to you by the lbs
@@claytoncoolidge992 no thanks! 😂😂😂
Paul, I absolutely love watching and learning from your videos, please keep them coming 😊😊
slow down to go fast! a great thing. Eric O also touts that. Prepare a plan for what you want to check and think about what you're anticipating to see on the scope, scan tool etc. This is the fundamentals for any troubleshooting for any trade. When you master this, you can accomplish so much more on so many topics. Paul you always do a great job driving this method home for your audience and the results speak for themselves.
Thank you!
Mr. Danner.... that happiness in your voice, when you find the cause of that trouble, shows that you enjoy and feels passion like the first time you were successful finding the solution to that class of problems. Thanks for that passion and keep doing that way!!!
Bad ground strap on the passenger side underside. Im calling it before I watch the video. Lol
lol same here
I just had that happen to me, the weave ground strap rotted away on a 2011.
Don’t break those fuel line locking clips. Impossible to find new, or the fuel lines are practically extinct
@@BigJohnnyo80 I literally see 2-3 a week for the ground strap. We have a fleet of them vans.
I tested ground and power using the body ground on the door. So I mistakenly thought I had a good circuit. NOPE! Got the pump to run off a ground from the trailer electrical connector 😞
Indeed it's been a very very long time at Pete's, really nostalgic I remember all the great lectures you've produced from this place over the years, Simply AWESOME👍🏻
THANKS FOR SHARING SD😍
SPECIAL THANKS TO CAMERAMAN CALEB😎
STAY BLESSED GUY'S❤️
Thank you my brother
I still solder and heat shrink , been doing it for 30 plus years as a professional . Hasn't let me down yet and yes I work in the rust belt. You are a great teacher and have a great you tube channel.
Great video guys ! Good to see you back in the field doing Diagnostics..I truly believe it’s these type videos that put you where you are today …thanks Paul and Kaleb ..team effort that’s the best
Me too on this. I watched all of your older videos and learned so much. I am retired now and would really appreciate knowing more about the bidirectional capabilities of the Topdon scantool as that one is in my price range $1000 and perhaps compared it to the Launch tool. Again thanks for a great education in diagnostics.
I'm still in the field at my brothers shop too and he always gives me all the hard ones lol
I enjoy seeing someone with a very similar intensity too properly diag,and repair,,You're awesome Paul
When I do not have brush on electrical tape, I use RTV. I warm it to cure it more quickly. But it has to be the RTV that does not smell like vinegar (acetic acid) as this is corrosive. I use ultra grey as it is oxime based and non corrosive to metal.
Pete’s garage? A SnapOn scan tool? It’s gonna b a great Saturday. In one of your recent videos, I think u mentioned it’s hard to beat the SnapOn for its recording features and other good things about it. I have been using my old Verus a little more. I forgot to mention Caleb and his skill set!! Thank u both!!
It was great to be back!! Thanks Bill
Ashes to ashes and dust to dust if you live in the rust belt things are going to rust
Well Done, You guys are doing brilliant, and your son is perfect in editing the videos and highlighting key words and functions on your scanner footage, Once again Thank You So Much.
he will love this comment! as do I! I'm sending this to him. Thank you so much and I agree about his editing and work he does for me
the sun is shining, the kids are nice to each other, my wife looks fantastic AND an SD video at Pete's!! This should be a beautiful day. Happy Sunday everyone!
😊
I like working on vehicles, but the problem solving stuff makes me love it, especially when I win.
Sunday morning , cold n wet here in NZ but coffee's hot and watching a SD video what better way to start the day. Thanks to you both for making this happen.
awesome thank you!
i've seen the green crusties wick up a foot and a half into a wire. its a pain but i cut and strip till i get clean copper no black or green. best thing i ever used was butyl tape. years ago it was available through euclid heavy duty. nasty sticky crap but it worked like nothing else
It's funny I just rewatched the video where you bought those Snappy crimpers, great fix and diag
I use clear nail polish to brush over my probing holes that I pierce into wires when testing. I repair a fleet and never had one corrode later on, I'm the one that'd work on it if they did....
I've heard other guys using that too. Off camera I was asking Pete if he had any lol. Thanks!
Why we checked ignition when there's no pressure. Nothing like I'm teaching you something, just want to know why we do that.
Is that because of whatever reason ecu gives command to ignition and fuel pump to stop functioning? But if computer wants not running engine than it should disable injection pulse right? I'm confused...
It's a direction based test! If I also have no spark, there would be zero reason to crawl underneath this van to check pump powers and grounds, because it wouldn't be there!
Make sense?
Oh yea.. right, thanks for answering
I agree with you about starting either. It is so volatile that I've seen the hot wire on the MAF sensor ignite it and actually blow up the air cleaner housing. Way back I cranked over a car that was towed in and had so much either in it you could smell it across the parking lot. There was an explosion that blew the valve covers off of the engine.
Teach how you teach brother, i love how you give the details on parameters!
They put a fuel pump in, but didn't verify power or ground to the pump?
Yeah, that's rough 😅
I see this all the time, from all over the world. Customer thinks they can handle it and change the pump after some Google searches for no fuel pressure
@@ScannerDanner I totally get that, not to to long ago I had a crank no start on fusion I believe it was. Customer had installed a new fuel pump and a bunch of other parts and couldn't get it to start. The thing was out of fuel, best part was the fuel light was on.
Then about a month agoI had a crank no start on a Nissan. It again had several parts thrown at it, it had no fuel or spark. It was 4qts low on oil, added 4qts of oil and it fired right up.
Can't get tunnel vision on one system,. Far to often I see guys chasing codes that were set due to a result and not the cause.
A little scary Pete couldn't figure that out...
remember Pete won't even really look at these, he just calls me in while he does other things
Paul I got one for you, I changed the fuel pump on my 89
F150, I put everything back together truck would crank, but not start, I check for power and ground at the pump, the fuel pump would work if you took jumper wires and hooked it to a car battery, but wouldn't work if connected to the truck harness. Something told me to check the wires at the pump, the wires on the pump were crossed. I switched the wires truck started right up. Always do a visual inspection
You're 100% right on the challenges rust belt techs see that other regions don't. I see stuff you, Eric O and others work on and the issues you face are dramatically different. I'm in CA and the moment I look underneath a car and see it's an east coast car my entire troubleshooting mindset changes. In other words, we're spoiled haha. Great lesson as always man!
My first move on those old Ford trucks was to slide under it and confirm that the FPM and wiring were corroded. They picked the worst possible place to mount a module with an aluminum housing. It helps to spray the module and connections with something to protect them from salt water and humidity.
Hi Dan. So. I get all that. I'm really appreciating your work .👍🏻 l fallow circuits . Electronics hard wire .wireless. alarms so knowing that . Power supply is some what all ways an issue. Video signals are the same . Everything comes back to a central station . We can find voltage drop bad contacts . Bad components. We some times have to find control switches or other issues. So we can do & replace or repair every thing in front of situation. So why is finding or replacing /repairing so Dam difficult. Please lm just asking yeah lm good at what l do as you are 👍🏻
Very interesting diag. Thanks for this video.(danke paul & sohn)👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻.
19:57 careful, you're gonna trigger the soldering purists! No crimping, we must solder so the joint will become brittle and break again in a few years.
Up here in Quebec, The ultimate rust belt i deal with those types of fault everyday! visual inspection as you teach!!!
How ironic just last week had to diagnose no fuel and had a bad driver module was in a 2014 F250.
Shout out from the rust belt. - WI edition. We’d be like automotive gods anywhere else.
Luckily i own a 98 ford E250 with the 4.2 v6 4r70w alot easier to work on and replaced fp 2 years ago still going strong too
You are The Man, 🎉🎉🎉 dealing with same issues now, Thank you so much sir!
The most basic things make or break a job by hrs. I always carry a fresh battery to fit vehicle if dealing with electrical
Check for corrosion behind drivers fuse holder panel. Often the problem.
Are you in PA ? If so would you be willing to look at my van im living in and help me figure out why its a weird sound when letting off the gas as im driving maybe make a video of it i wouldn't mind driving to you i stay around DC
I love the salt belt. Green wires and job security!
I noticed a blinking red light under the steering column. Even when the key was turned off, maybe we have an alarm system issue that was hooked up to the fuel pump?? This is only a thought at this point I have not seen you attack a fuel pump yet.
never even noticed that
uhoh, probably a triton 3v and needs heads.... 🤣🤣
**joking aside, fuel inertia switch tripped? (or computers/modules stopping it). after seeing it's a work van, it's likely been bumper banged endless times. lol
No inertia switch on this one. It uses the airbag system for that info on this model
@21:25. Thank you, Whoever it was!!
I watch this video from Iraq
Thanks for u
Maybe hire a technician that can diagnose the problem.
Or watch the video? We did, and we fixed it too.
I solved a intermittent no start problem on a E350 2012 recently, it was the SRS Module under driver seat.
The communication with the fuel pump went through the srs module and since the srs module was completely rusty, the signal could not pass.
Nice job
I'm old enough to remember working at Ford and having to go through those giant breakout boxes. They were better than poking holes in wires, even in Southern California - we did have that coastal strip that extended 10 miles inland. I've seen some sh*t.
I also remember those rollover valves. Great in theory; in execution, not so much. A traffic or speed bump could set them off.
I can't remember if that light duty black/gray wire was for radio interference, but I think it was. Maybe still is, although you'd like to think we're beyond that, these days.
Remember when certain cars would get to intersections and die because of the communications equipment interference with the early PCMs? I only have vague recollections of that, since it was early enough in the production of whatever make/model of car it was, and it wasn't my make/model of car.
those breakout boxes sucked :-) Step 1 of a flow chart "install BOB" lol I didn't even know who BOB was back then in the aftermarket 😉😂
I bypassed by inertia switch with a 10 amp mini ATC fuse
Good job and nice wiring. You could be an electrician.
So you can actually see that it's shielded on the diagram: (11:23)... I believe that dotted circle around the FPRNT wire indicates that it is shielded; you can even see where it ties to that other ground wire: where it says NCA. I was wondering what they symbolism was (the dotted circle).. Now I just deduced that it must be a symbol for shielding- it makes perfect sense now. its so confusing when you see stuff like that and you don't know what it means. But I do now. :)
Nice! Oh and NCA = no color available lol
I find myself with a new fuel pump that's not pumping
I can hear it run when I turn on the key, But pressure gauge shows Nothing
Having just put everything back together, I really don't want to go through that again - Yet!
I dug out a 12vdc diaphragm pump and thought maybe giving it a Prime - "Kick start it"
(I'm cut, bruised, beat up, & down right Pooped, I'm in No hurry!)
What do You Think Paul, is it worth a Shot?
Did you accidentally wire it in reverse?
@@ScannerDanner It has a cabled harness
But I do know where the power pins are
First pin to the left is Bk DC - power, (2nd pin) Red DC + power
"On the CCRM, Power to the pump is Pin
#5"
(I'm use to the L1 & L2 AC supply leads) lol
thx Paul
Great video and info thank you Paul Danner.
Good seen you and your son working together, keep yo the good work
Great video, love when you work at Pete's! Does the light you are using belong to Pete? I only remember seeing it in his videos. Thanks for sharing!
No, that was my backup light, my other one finally died.
What's the primary circuit Vs secondary, I've seen it on fuel system and ignition system as well 🤔
any direction to a video I should watch 🙏
With a fuel system, that would have to be GDI systems that may use that terminology as there is a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump. I don't know, I'm not sure I've heard that term applied to a fuel system. But the ignition system, the primary circuit is what creates the magnetic field to collapse around the secondary windings to make spark. Anything on the spark side is the secondary. It starts at the coil and includes plugs and wires. The primary would be the 12v side that is switched on and off by a module or ECM
Also, you could call a relay as having a primary and secondary. Again terms not used, but technically it would be correct. The primary would be your low current side and the secondary would be the load carrying higher current side.
another learnning experience Danner,,,
No ground to the frame. I've had this twice in the past 2 years.
Didn't watch video.
I'm hearing that is a common issue. But not the case here. Thanks!
As usual SD !!! Another great teaching !!! I have got to upgrade my scanner !!! I love the fact that it has everything at your disposal... Keep up the Videos and Training !!! Love you guys and God bless !!!
The information system I was using is not tied to the tool. It is called ShopKey Pro (Mitchell On-Demand) and it runs about $160 a month for the program. Not cheap. If you are a DIY guy and just need it for a few cars a month, you can purchase the info (same as I use) for individual cars for $20 for a months access and I believe you can print too? Pass that off to your customers
eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1=
Thank for that info ! I used all data when in the business...Glad you clarified that...
The only salt in Hawaii is on our food.
Paul, Before you begin think:
If this is hard, I'm probably doing this wrong and
if this is expensive, I'm probably doing this wrong.
Most repairs are not that hard.
Another great video. Keep up the good work.
Oh Man, Altho we didn't get him on camera, it's Great to see another video from Pete's Garage. 😊
Got another viewers tip for ya...store that liquid tape upside down. That'll keep it from drying out as easily. I'm sure you've probably heard that one before. Lol
Thanks for another great video bro. Cheers 😎👍
I miss LaTorres auto diagnosis
great video team Danner, thanks
Man I miss working in the shop. I don't miss an aching back and torn up hands every day, so I do it for fun now. There is something awesome about being in the shop with some great co-worker's, good tunes (heard the Journey playing), and the vehicle isn't fighting you.
Tape on the socket , great tip.
With these early to mid 2000 trucks n vans if I see them at work one of the 1st things I do it look at the FP driver modules/wiring.
Very common fault on these
Gravy work up here in Canada
Many times I find soldering old wire nearly impossible do to the surface corrosion of the copper. In the salt water marine environment we have better luck with the crimp connectors with heat shrink and hot glue. There are times we have to run new wire from one end to the other because the corrosion has traveled all of the way up and even turning the wire to copper dust. We also use a product to coat open connections, battery terminals, and metal parts called Linebacker from Zep. It is an anti corrosion spray that dries to what I think is some kind of wax. I also use it on and in connectors if I think they might be subject to salt water spray or bilge water. Good for battery connections also. I don't think any plug connection can be made mechanically salt proof. Just one grain of it will do a lot of damage on electrical systems.
You said "it's interesting that it's often the power that corrodes, and not the ground" -- That's not always true-- and it depends on the type of metals that you're dealing with. It's known as "galvanic corrosion" and there is a range of "noble metals" that can react differently depending on how you arrange the different metals in a circuit. For example how they put a sacrificial anode on boats (usually zink I believe) to save it from corroding. Practical Engineering did a pretty good video explaining all this stuff, called: "These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust"
With copper wire on negative ground cars, it's always the 12v side that'a corroded.
Real old cars were positive ground (I may be using the wrong terms here) but the block and frame would have been 12v or maybe 6v at the time. Anyway, I wonder if those corroded differently
@@ScannerDanner You should watch that video explaining nobel metals though. It's worth your time. called: These Metals Sacrifice Themselves to Prevent Rust
I am all for the splice sleeves with the adhesive in them too. It's quick and easy. The key is, don't buy the cheapest ones you can find. I look at it this way, when I worked for GM, they used to supply those sleeves in connector repair kits for a reason. They work, when done correctly. It is also important to have a good set of crimpers. I bought a set online about 10 years ago that are identical to the ones GM supplied us with in our electrical tool kit. They work awesome, a perfect crimp every single time.
I've been searching for info on the reason for this type of system, I was working on a 2010 expedition and the pcm was not sending out a signal to the fuel pump control module. Turned out the circuit on the board of the pcm was burned. All i had to do was to clean then jump the burned part of the circuit. But I've always wondered why there was no fuel pressure sensor on the rail, how does the pcm know what command to tell the the fuel pump module. Now it makes sense. Thank you for sharing this paul!
Michigan(road salt during the winter)eats those modules up like candy. On those Ford trucks after i check for spark and fuel pressure like you did i usually make a bee line for the module (they split) since that issue is so common, as well as the wire corrosion issues.
Nice repair, I sometimes walk right past the obvious visual inspection, bad habits die hard. Poking wires who doesn't do that.
I'm with ya on the starting fluid issue. Except that I refuse to use it and you cannot find a can of it in my shop. It's way too easy to use my KV paddle to check for ignition (sometimes) LOL.
Another simple repair. Almost as simple as those blown GM fuses! Sure glad I live south of the MD line! I and a lot of others drive GM trucks so I'll be sure to remember those.
That’s how I found your channel many years ago while you were using shop air to diagnose an ac system at Pete’s. 😂😂
👍 another fine video!
Spray it all down with BAA,BAA fluid film.????
thats not really for wires, but it wouldn't hurt
I love fixing things brought in on a hook or from another shop with $6 in consumables, makes up for the really tough ones
Caleb/Paul,
Great video, diag, and repair - thank you!
Paul (in MA)
The socket mini roll tabe idea was South Main Auto's Eric O. idea, at least that's where I saw it first. Nice of you using it.
So Eric taught you guys and one of you guys taught me 🙂
@@ScannerDanner that doesn't mean you aren't the master 😉
Dear preferred teacher,
What is the name of your snap on scantool (solus, verus, ......)??
Verus Edge
@@ScannerDanner is ZEUS+ EEMS348 more advanced?
My favorite code - P0000🏁🔧
You mean P1000 🙂
That Tessa tape is worth every penny for wrapping harnesses. The fabric tape is also quite good if you need more flexibility, or your on the interior near chaff areas.
You ever use nail polish to seal the wires after you poke them?
Yes!
thanks for this video. I think you have been doing a great job on not only the repairs, but the teaching you do to help others on the repairs...
What kind of man doesn't have nail polish at hand?! ;)
🤣
My concern with the connectors has been damage to the area that gets 'squeezed'...breaking the surface. I'm thinking now that if a good crimper is used, that area of the tool is flat and more broad reducing the risk of breaking through.
Anyone have thoughts on this without making me feel stupid:)
absolutely! And my crimpers will break the surface at times too, but the crimp connectors I use will ooze the adhesive out of that small hole too. I've only had one comeback on me in all the years of using them and it was from exactly what you are referring to. I crimped it too hard and it broke in that location again after about a year or so.
@ScannerDanner Never considered the coverage offered by the connector...it's not only at the ends.
You have a great deal to be proud of with Caleb and have nothing but respect for you as a father.
Hope to meet one day at a training event.
God bless from a dad, tech and shop owner - Toronto Canada.
@@unencumbered I'd like that too! Thank you my friend
LOVE my Tessa tape. Much better and actually easier to use!
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO
Hello Paul.Awesome content as always.Thanx bro!
Thank you 👍
SD the GOAT
Awesome job
still undecided on whats in worse shape… those wires or your governor john fettermans brain
🤣 can't believe people actually voted for him. Smh
@@ScannerDannersame people that voted for biden lol wouldnt be shocked if they rigged PA elections just like they did federally
at least they didnt charge dr oz for doing too many surgerys lol
Each Day I watch your Videos I get more valuable experience in the Vehicle Diagnosis and I'm sure I will be professional Auto Technician. Thanks Danner ❤❤❤
Keep it up! Looks like you've been watching a lot!
Time for new vehicle! LOL LOL LOL
🥰😆🥰
welcome to the rust belt
Awesome. Thanks for sharing Paul. Cheers.
Gracias amigo
Ok 👍
Love your videos dude especially on old Fords
Frame 13:37 👍👊
Excellent diagnosis and trouble shooting.
Always learning from you bro, thanks from SoCal! Love your teaching style, practical and real world stuff for us road techs. Been using those heatshrink crimp connectors for a few years and they’re great! But we don’t have rust…
Awesome! Thank you!