I had a Scanner Danner moment today Paul. My son's 03 Envoy would not start many miles away from home immediately after he filled his gas tank. He managed to start it once and brought it to a part time mechanic that his grandfather recommended. The mechanic said it was 100% fuel pump but he didn't have a lift to change it out, I just dropped the tank on my 04 Trailblazer a month ago or so, so I reluctantly told him I'll be there to get AAA to bring it to my garage. In the meantime my son ordered, then picked up a fuel pump and filter for $375. I told him NOT to open any box or lose any receipts until I did more testing. When we were getting it towed, 4 old timers were around including my in-law, who were adamant it was the pump. I tested for 2 power feeds at the relay, and bi bidirectionally ran the relay- confirming the PCM was doing its job. The old timers laughed and said "we told you it was the pump". I told em I believed them since there was no prime, but still wanted to check the power and ground directly down below. You can image the lectures and stories from the past I got from them for suggesting they might be wrong. Anyways, today I jacked it up and was preparing to siphon some gas from tank to make it a little easier on me. When i got underneath, i noticed a ground wire on the side just below the drivers door that was located on the rustiest spot I have ever seen. I said to myself, that had to be it. I took out the PP4 and as soon as I tapped the area - the whole piece( the nut , bolt, and wire, metal from car) completely detached from the car. I put the PP4 directly on that and it read from 0.38v-1v. Long story shorter, I cut the green crusties out, butt connected a 18g wire with new piece on the end. I had to choose a new grounding point so since I already had the crossbar( supports fuel tank) off- I chose those bolt threads. I used a grinder to get the bolts, holes and each side of the crossbar that comes in contact with the bolt and car rust free. I wrapped the connections and added a loom. Reattached everything and squeezed dielectric grease in between for waterproofing., and sprayed Fluid Film on the bolt to inhibit rust and corrosion. Jumped in the truck and what do ya know- It fired right up! Re tested everything....ChaChing- Items returned-money saved! Thanks Paul, I owe you thanks for my knowledge. I'm now at the point where I just know where and what to test and how to interpret the results sufficiently thanks to studying your book and free/paid videos. Sorry for writing a novel in your comments, but this was a major breakthrough and proud moment for me.
Don't apologize for the long story, it was awesome! Nice job man, seriously cool stuff and I'm proud of you man. You are the one who made this happen for yourself. I just provided the methods and you did all the work. God bless you my friend.
This video is so good for so many reasons. 3 years old, but the two videos in this series about the towncar are probably the best fuel system diagnostics teaching explanation I have ever seen.
At 21:00 " Are you sure you know what you're doing?"-- nice one Caleb! These are always the hardest to explain, customer thinks we screwed up, boss thinks we miss diagnosed first time. You mentioned verifying fuel pressure after installing a new pump, it's also good to verify power and ground on new pump to make sure you are not dealing with resistance in wiring.
1990 Ford box truck, my business livelihood, on I 25 yesterday, it died right on an off ramp, almost got hit by 18-wheeler, got heat exhaustion and almost went to the ER. Now I know how to repair the damn thing so I can trust the truck again. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!! Your videos have all been great, this one will save by business!!
You didn't bring your power probe? WHAAAAT? I thought that you slept with your power probe, showered with your power probe, had it by your side at all times. I thought you had a concealed carry permit for your power probe.... Hey, thanks again for the free video. It was very informative and great to see you working with Caleb. I have two daughters so I never get to share my love of cars with them but at least they know how to check the oil and don't buy cheap gas and do the recommended maintenance.
If you don’t already have one, a non-contact tone generator would have saved you SO MUCH time on a job like this. I have the power probe tone generator. Last year I diagnosed a broken fuel pump wire that was grounded out on the frame. I spent a little while dicking around with a meter, but as soon as I hooked up the tone generator, it took less than 2mins to trace and and identify the fault. For me, it paid for itself on that one job. Nice work finding this one though!
Hey scanner Danner, i gave up before on several can't find a find a ground and made up a aligator clamp wire about 15 feet long and now its no problem on the rusty stuff. A perfect ground every time.
The twists and turns of diagnostics. I see a video that's almost an hour long and I think, I don't have time to watch the whole thing. But as usual the drama unfolds and sure enough, the time flies by. It's fun to watch the moment when you find the issue. The steps and process were interesting as well.
I like this video because it is honest and because it is exactly the kind of dialogue that goes through my head when I work on cars. I make a theory and try to prove/disprove it before ordering parts. Often you reach for a wrong conclusion, bu along the way, you find the real failure, just like this guy. He is a good mechanic. A trick you can use if you aren't trying t educate someone else: keep quiet until the car is running again. That way you don't open yourself to hindsight criticism. Good video !! He shows the process and that will teach you diagnostics that you can do to get it fixed! Excellent!!!
I think I had that exact problem with my 95 town car. I never found the exact place, but when it would not start, I would take that relay module lose from its mounting tabs and wiggle it around and the car would start and run for a couple months until next time. Initially swapping out the relay (with WOT) would make it start, but later I realized it was just wiggling that module was what "fixed" it. That 95 has now been replaced with a 97 TownCar (not because of the pump issue). Great detailed troubleshooting video. I enjoy your process because I am now retired from Lockheed where I was doing that exact job on P-3 Orion aircraft and enjoy seeing you use the exact troubleshooting processes that kept me employed for 50 years and kept our customer wanting to keep me around. I have since become a private pilot and bought an aircraft so now play with my own airplane.
"You can hardwire every connector" Great advise. I'm rolling down the highway in my 18 wheeler and a low beam headlight goes out. I buy and install a new one and take off down the road. its getting dark and I notice the new bulb is not lighting. Where did I hear someone say "don't be a parts changer?:" Got out my volt meter and 0.0 volts at the headlight. The next connection is by the frame. I check the voltage 12.3 volts. I see lots of green corrosion in the connector. I snip out the old connector and crimp in some wire connectors. quick fix. It's all good. You and your son are amazing. I use to take the truck to the dealership for this type of problem. NO DEALERSHIP, NO DOWNTIME!!! Thank you, thank you thank you
Awesome man! So glad to help out the working man. Especially you truckers! You guys are the lifeblood of this nation. God bless you and keep you safe my friend
I know! He is learning a ton and getting paid to learn at the same time. It is a win, win, win situation. The final win being for you guys having better videos.
Great video! Detailed information and GREAT VISUALS! As I love older vehicles, 80's-90's I'm going through it with 2 Caprices not starting/stalling. New fuel pump, filter, relay, fuses, blah, blah. I'm a beginner DIY and hate the headache but LOVE the troubleshooting and positive end result. Thanks for taking the time SD!
I'm reluctant to get a newer vehicle as I know these 80'-90's were everyday drivers for many once upon a time. (I'm Ol'School)😊 These 3rd gen styles are, non-sensor, computer controlling everything, super EZ* to work on, plus there is no guarantee new vehicles won't give you probs. In the "Turds" offense, I have been neglectful and running to mechanics for a help as this costs me more $ & time etc having 2 of the same car. Knowing is half the battle with reg maintenance & ppl like you guys! PS any suggestions?
no starting/stalling right? First thing I would do it get it to be a no start, then find out what you are missing (spark or fuel), then go from there. You are at a fork in the road and you are ether turning right or turning left and until we know which direction we are going it is USELESS to speculate
Paul, wanted to extend my thanks to you for this excellent video that you and Caleb did. I learned a bit on this one! Sure enough, I would have part cannon on that. But those is something I had problem occurring for quite a while, I had non functioning cruise control. I admit I part cannon on the switch and the control module itself. Didn't fix it. But I remember seeing your early video from years ago. Maybe 2 or 3. The pin on the plug going to the module was bad. I'm ashamed of myself for not checking the continuity or ground, open etc. At least I learned something out of this video. I hope I'll better myself in the future! 😀.
wow i would have changed the fuel pump, that is because I am a rookie and just learning!! but what a great job diagnosing this issue!!!! just like you told me to firs check the wiring on my o2 sensor before changing it, now I understand why even more!!! awesome work !!!
sure can, the regulator being stuck closed causes way higher than normal pressure and nearly "deadheads" the pump, which means greatly increased load and very little fuel flow through it. the combination of fuel flowing through it and being submerged is what cools them! some cars will blow the fuse on hot days in that scenario. also when the tank is low, they're only partially submerged and rely further on the fuel flow for cooling. on single line systems the regulator is in tank or the pressure is computer controlled by varying pump speed.
another good one Paul and Caleb. Just shows how electrical problems can be wiring more often than parts. Good one guys. Plenty of sweat at least there were no mosquitoes. ❤
Fourth cause might be contamination in the tank, rust, sugar, etc...to wipe out a new pump. Seen it on a few cars over the years. Great video ScannerDanner! Keep up the good work man.
I was thinking the same thing. I just did a Jeep grand cherokee and when I pulled the old pump out i could see all kinds of black debris sloshing around the bottom of the tank. I had to flush it out completely.
Joe's Auto Electric Your absolutely correct about that sugar in the tank diagnosis. In my young and stupid childish days I messed up someone's vehicle with that trick.
@@BigD1395 Yeah my brother once dated some psycho bitch that recommended us to do the sugar down the gas tank damage to a neighbor we didn't get a long with. Low and behold, the psycho bitch does it to my brother on his old 1988 Sentra he had 10 years back. This was a grown up 30 year old ho with 3 kids that we took in our house and helped out with her kids. I had my brother junk the shit as a lesson to him. He barely knows how to change a tire and I wasn't going to to all the work for him. Lesson learned, he never dated another psycho bitch again. But if you were young when you did this, at least that's forgivable. But not by that person you did it to I assume.
That was reality. You earn your money. I'm just trying to figure out why my car cuts out after a few seconds. New fuel filter, pump, it makes no difference. I hear a click from the rear (pump?) so assume it's getting power. I'm exhausted watching you work! Thank you!
Nice video as usual. Enjoy the family time. My sons 4 and is always “helping” when I’ve got a car on the driveway. He has is own dirt cheap socket set,screwdrivers and tiny deadblow hammer. He loves it and sometimes it will take me twice as long to do a job but I wouldn’t have it any other way.
i just wanted to thank you so much for the time you take making these videos. I have a 98 Jeep Laredo, and to date I have diagnosed a bad crank sensor , correctly, i might add. having issues with the ecu but this model is notorious for that. I would be driving down the road at night and no problems, until of course a cop would get behind me, then whammo, no lights! Or worrse yet, lose all power. Of course the cops would pull me over, and go away laughing when they saw the kids swimming noodle i had jammed in between the overflow container and the ecu! i am a little more professional now, lol. I have since installed new exhaust system, Heat shield, fuel pump (yuck!), and as soon as my new ecu is flashed, will confidently be able to make sure there are no open circuits or shorts before i install it. Again thank you so much! The exhaust is a long story , as it involved running over amile marker post the wrong way. luckily it missed the engine, but not my floorboard on passenger side nor my exhaust. after it sounded like my boat , 455 bb olds, and you got a little high driving! But I digress! Thank You Scanner Danner
I agree with you about using a test light vs a muliti meter. Sometimes when you have a high resistance connection, a mulit meter will register 12V but a test light would not. This is because multi meters have a very high input impedance so they don't "stress" the high resistance connection like the test light does.
Paul & Caleb excellent attention to detail !!! My 2016 Nissan Rouge taillight stopped working- darn terminal wasn't locked into place on the connector...even newer cars are susceptible !
I have experienced super loose things that gave me problems. Turns out it was pink too, just like that power wire. :-) Great job Paul and your son is a terrific camera guy/extra set of eyes.
I had pin fitment issue at the computer on a 94 Oldsmobile 88 body style it cause the car to die almost had to be towed home is cousin intermittent crank signal and then it had other pin fitment issues causing other problems after so much testing realized it was pin fitment problem your videos are so helpful and wonderful keep up the great work
I congratulate you for everything you do to demonstrate all the ways to be sure of your diagnosis, you are great doing this, I am not a mechanic, but I really like to learn something you know someday this will help you all this, keep going that God bless you.
Working on mining equipment in Australia, you always seem to leave yourself open for comebacks, regardless of the job. I've had to explain to customers that if your operators stopped attempting repairs, without extensive knowledge, reoccurring issues would be minimal, and new issues would be minimised, and even with photographic proof, the difficulty is recharging for the same repair. Arguments always ensure and you just admit defeat but we will refuse to repair if the issue reoccurs due to operator interference or will repair but the hourly rate triples. Great educational vid. 👍👍
that sounds like a good way to get a bad rep. What you should do is explain what was different.. In this case, the connector could have contributed or caused the first fuel pump to die, however with the new pump showing proper pressure that means it was getting the proper voltage and connection after the first repair.. and being that the car drove for 3 months, suggest that if this connector had a problem back then it would be unknowable with the connector seated properly during the time it was in for repair and the following 3 months. It is indeed a separate issue billing wise.
After seeing power on both sides of the inertia switch I very surprised to learn the open was under the hood instead of between the inertia switch and the fuel pump's ground, so I want to express gratitude for the important lesson about the big difference of it being on the control side of the relay instead of the power side. BTW: It was interesting to witness (and feel) your extreme frustration while expecting a failed pump change to celebration when the wiggle test exposed the cause.
I love your raw videos like this, and thanks for your hard work producing these videos, Im a old school retired mechanic from the days of positive earth cars. and follow you as entertainment along with for the most understanding your train of thought, I still get called on to sort problems out on the newer cars with no complaints from me as I love the thrill of finding the problem. Keep up the great work. All the best from the UK ps great camera work on this video.
Great video Paul I love this stuff. Easy to wrench harder to diagnose. I use jumper cable ground sometimes to get a good known ground in the back of the car. Wish my teenagers would come out with me.
The joy of mobile Diag. Too hot in summer, too cold and wet in winter. Working off gravel and grass. Great video, great Diag and some real life frustration. What more could we ask for 👍 Thanks Paul & Caleb 👋
Edward mc veigh McVeigh could be anything, damaged harness, blocked exhaust, water in fuel etc. I’d put a post up in Paul’s forum. There’s a good few brits in there that can help with euro diesel Diag techniques. Hope this helps. Steve.
Seen this happening a lot. Unplug your maf sensor and try and recreate cut out and if I was a betting man I would guarantee it stops. Sometimes cleaning it works if not it will need replacement. I’m a rac patrol and it’s a regular fault and another problem with same symptoms is your fuel pressure sensor on the high pressure pump on engine the second will need a scan tool with live data to see it.
i remember working on EEC-IV and as i recall every flow chart had a wiggle test and if the wiggle test failed repair or replace harness watching you in this video brought back those horrible nightmares.
This is best video you you made its so entertaining and fun to watch . Ive been a technician 30 years love watch your vids . Being a guy originally from London your working a classic old americn cruiser love it !
I worked at a class 8 truck dealership for almost 14 years doing a lot of electrical work. I did many repairs just like you did on those terminals simply because the only alternative was to replace an entire harness., which the management actually preferred because it was more profitable for them. I saved every wire harness I got my hands on for the terminals and connectors which were not available separately. We would just cut a pigtail with a good terminal from an old harness and splice and heat shrink., quick and easy, and cheap. I caught hell from the service manager who thought my old service cart stacked up with old harnesses was unsightly. I finally gave in and moved them out, right to my pickup and brought them home to my shop. I still have them for when I need a repair part. After that, the other techs who also utilized my stockpile got upset since we no longer had a supply of terminals and connector bodies. The parts department started selling more harnesses, but customers had to wait longer as well as paying through the nose for new parts which were not stocked and had to be ordered. The manager caught hell once I told the others he didn't want me to keep my supply.
On an older car you can expect almost anything. How many heat/cold cycles has that connector pin been through over the years? Very well done video Paul and Caleb.
Paul Great video and diagnosis. As I said in part 1 I have an EEC-IV 5.0L in my early Fox so I know these circuits well. Good job and kudos to Caleb for great camera work and questions/observations. Happy fathers day (my father is in heaven) and God bless you both. Paul
So is mine my friend. Since I was 6 months old. But i know he is in heaven too and i will see him again one day. When i open my eyes on the other side, I will see Jesus first, then my dad :-) Happy Fathers Day to you too
Not sure if it was mentioned but here I go. Good job Scannerdanner. I've learned a number of good lab scope skills by watching you work. I do have an issued with this vid though. When testing for SPARK. Don't touch ground, or the car for that matter, with you hand or any other body part. And always, this is important, always use the hand furthest away from your heart. Ok I'm done. Y'alls can hate on me now.. haha
Good video, always do an after the repair check. I am a retired tech of 45 years. I have beaten on tank to start vehicles with bad pumps, my only reservation is beating could jar a bad connection near the pump and ruin the chance of finding the real problem.
Any idea why the car has a problem stalling out ? My 1995 Ford Explorer also stalls out while driving at low idle. Thank you for another great and informative video. Best automotive teacher on the Web.
One test I like is an amp test on the load circuit (at the relay) to see if the amps are high meaning the pump is struggling conversely, if low then a poor circuit in or to the pump.
Sometimes i think it takes longer to find a good ground here in the rust belt than it takes for the actual diagnoses and repair lol.Great video Paul keep them coming.
typical problem with GM 3.1 and 3.4 too. The connector running behind the alternator have same issues of female pin and getting fuel injector trouble codes. Good video.
We Diagnostic Mechanics sometimes over think things..... I too do this, and costs me time, it's better to walk away and take a Break? Thanks for all your Vids.....
you can always clip the "test light" clip on to power side and try to get ground with the probe end. it's a bit easier to dig through the rust that way, but it still doesn't work perfectly either.
I've been watching tons, of mechanic videos for a while now between a few guys i like, you ETCG, South Main and DIagnos Dan i believe. I have a trick i use in my kit i bring to work on my cars that i came up with years ago. I've seen no one else use it. I keep about 25ft of wire with alligator clips on each end, solely for the purpose of having a definite ground all the time, (connect to battery). Now that being said there may be a reason some may not do this but it works for me. If its not a good idea, please let me know. Oh one more, for an integrity test for wires i have an old headlight bulb that runs at about 4.5 amps i use. Love your videos. Thank You.
Amazing video. I understood everything. Thank you so much for the new knowledge. Love that tool. It is basically a jumper wire in a way but you can check your powers and grounds at the same time. Thank you
My instructor onece had mentioned Ford literally had jiggle test in its trouble shooting procedures, going around and jiggling connectors for the obvious reason. Regarding the idle ford used a solenoid style iac called idle control valve it had a pluging up history, sort of egr style ports & pintle would get dirty, stuck etc. and cause idle issues, most of the time Carb cleaner would take care of it. Very cool case study.
Ive never ran across a new pump being bad, although I have heard of it. But my first thought after replacing the pump and continuing to have no pressure would have me bench testing my old pump. Then the internal prongs... only because I have ran into that situation many times on my old ford trucks. Lol. New to your channel. Thanks for your video.
😂. I just had brand new DELPHI dead out of the box. Didnt put out 6psi. Was a re/re/re new pumps are garbage. 2so far that do not produce the spec pressure (50psi) and fuel pressure regulators not holding pressure producing a long crank to start. everything has been replaced. Filter. Fuses.relay. Harness end. checked powers grounds. 3rd one a charm? I hope so or Its not a fixable vehicle due to afturdmarket junk.
Even the best techs will have callbacks, and how they treat the customer and deal with it makes all the difference. This is a brilliant case study! Kinda reminds me of the turd cars I drive, ha ha ha. As you found the loose connector pins, I wondered if somehow you could have had an intermittent failure there that was OK when you were testing for power and ground at the pump originally. If the connection was OK when tested, you had no possible way to find it, especially if you tested with a 6 amp load, looking for voltage drops. I suppose one could have fed 12 V to the pump after dropping the tank, but by that point you've already committed to replace the pump. This one is a further reminder that you want to build as much evidence as you can before you replace a part. At a callback your documented evidence will be there to support you when smart-ass students ask questions, ha ha ha.
Great video I found your information really helpful I've been going to the same problem with my 94 Lincoln town car I've had to jump it many many times it cranks over but just didn't have enoughI could have been killing the fuel pump at the same time but probably the fuel pump was going out. Just got done cleaning my own injectors I should have done a continuity test first and check the fuel pump first will be watching your videos in the future.thanks
I'm not really far into this video yet but I'm going to say the fuel inertia switch can be a pain. i had an '88 Bronco II. Kept dying. I kept checking that the inertia switch was "engaged." After the 3rd fuel pump i unplugged the switch and checked for continuity. Nothing!!! When it got warm, the contact inside would bend away causing an open condition. SO frustrating, but i was so happy to finally find it. Ok, I'll finish watching the video now 😂
Had one throwing crazy codes ,lot on new parts on vechicle turns out it was a corrode ground cable Just like u show in this video test,test,test & test again dont rush to condem parts Great video
Here's an interesting power ground , short fuel pump life case for you. 96 k1500 pickup 5.7 v8. Repeatedly burning out fuel pumps. Battery neg cable grounds to block, block to ground strap corroding, battery has a small cable to the sheet metal. Pump has ground and runs. But excessive current draw was Front the pumps. Fix was to add a battery cable type link from the block to the frame, and a 8 gauge link from the frame to the body. Truck also had flickering interior lights, burned wiring t the blower motor and burned out radios. Failure by design by chevy, ground straps were way to small to carry the current load.
Great videos Paul & Caleb - I had a fuel pump failing every six months, because customer runs fuel in tank low and since pump needs to be submersed to keep cool it burns out.
Sometimes we get lucky when looking for broken wires, good catch on seeing the fuel pressure come up! I also liked the visual of the test light showing open and closed circuit. About the two problem thing, let me tell you a story. Once upon a time, a guys manlift was a crank, no start. I check and eventually find no power to the fuel pump. I Google up a wiring diagram and start tracing power for the fuel pump and in the control panel I have power so I decide to check for power at the main engine connector. When I go to pull it apart, a wire comes out. The pin is still there, but the wire broke at the crimp. Fix it, test it, and send him a bill. This is Friday. Monday I get the same call. Insert sad face here. I pull up and before I even get out of the truck I can smell that it is getting fuel. Do spark checks and no spark, no power to the coil. Back to the control panel and again, track down power. I have it on one side of a big, inline fuse so I want to check it on the other side but it is a shielded, female spade connector, so I grab it to pull it off to get on the male side and the wire pulls out at the crimp! SAME type of failure (bad crimp) on TWO different systems on consecutive days! Too many times we hear of mechanics being told that there were two different problems, when in reality there was just one and they didn't do proper troubleshooting, so I was sure to thoroughly explain to my new customer what I found each time and sent him another bill. And everyone lived happily ever after.
Had a similar situation with an even on a 01 Dodge Grand Caravan that was purchased for $200 don in the southern states (no rust problems here) engine wouldn't run good pulled codes from ecm using the 3 key cycle method that Dodge/Crysler did back then and found it to have multiple fault codes that didn't coralate with each other went to start it up to do a drive test and when I did noticed when I slammed the hood down it went to running better so I focused on wiring near the hood area just to find it was the ECM connecter having the issue so I started poking around on the ECM wiring when I poked on the bottom connecter it went to a no crank situation so I disconnected the ECM connecters and reconnected it and the vehicle runs flawlessly now even corrected the a/c problem took a bit to get to there without the tools but got there in the end so I chopped my problem up to a pin fitment issue as well
Great video Paul. Every time I see pin fit it’s super hard to catch in the act. When you were talking about how to charge for this job all I could think of is that you would need a hell of a service writer to sell that job!
After bending the pin for better connection you could apply Deoxit D100L in the little brush bottle to lubricate and clean the pins. Deoxit has lubricating properties which helps sprung tangs engage without bending.
My 1990 Town Car had a wire problem on this same connector for another circuit. I just bypassed it. Something up with that weather pack connector supplier? Great video, enjoyed the logic and workflow.
people who want to be shown what fuse to change or button to press to reset fuel pump , when they realise they have to actually learn something troubleshoot and test , thumbs down .
great vid asking again how is your brother doing hope everything is ok and is he going to be back on you tube learn so much from both of you thanks mike
He is great guys, thanks! Just a busy person and even though he started something good, he seems like he is not interested in continuing. I hope he changes his mind too.
LOng story short - Had at least a year old problem 06 Sentra and took it to a couple shops and didn't fix it . It was not revving up no matter if i floored pedal . It was gas pump and I went to junk yard got it for $34 including warranty . That was yesterday now running like a champ like new !! Yeah at very beginning suspected it might be pump but went with shop's recommendation . I trouble shooted it myself
Really enjoyed the video, ohm meters/continuity tests work on wires, but I have found that a test light works better because it provides a load to the circuit, I feel that this is a more definitive test and I know both you and Eric O. have mentioned this numerous times... Thanks for what you do. And it really bothers me for people criticizing, the whole thing about poking holes in wires... sometimes its necessary and they need to just get over themselves.
Thank you for this great vid had same problem in my 2000 Lincoln would crank wouldn’t start, changed crank position sensor had fuel pressure but couldn’t figure out where it was losing power and it was that exact problem with the connectors
I think this is a great example of how digital work orders can save your butt! If you have a video document and show the customer the problem the first time, you should not have to worry about it beeing a “comeback”.
what a coincidence i have a 1996 lincoln Continental doing this same exact thing and the behavior of the car makes me think its electrical like this car ive learned alot from scanner danner
Absolutely! I recommend you to all the techs I know and meet. "Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning stays young. The greatest gift is to keep your mind young" - Henry ford
It’s a 1990 car so.......that’s my short answer, I love it. Hahaha I’m a Chevrolet tech of 10 years now. Doesn’t get better than this, learning and entertainment. Love scanner Danner. Would love to come learn a thing or 2!
I had a Scanner Danner moment today Paul. My son's 03 Envoy would not start many miles away from home immediately after he filled his gas tank. He managed to start it once and brought it to a part time mechanic that his grandfather recommended. The mechanic said it was 100% fuel pump but he didn't have a lift to change it out, I just dropped the tank on my 04 Trailblazer a month ago or so, so I reluctantly told him I'll be there to get AAA to bring it to my garage. In the meantime my son ordered, then picked up a fuel pump and filter for $375. I told him NOT to open any box or lose any receipts until I did more testing.
When we were getting it towed, 4 old timers were around including my in-law, who were adamant it was the pump. I tested for 2 power feeds at the relay, and bi bidirectionally ran the relay- confirming the PCM was doing its job. The old timers laughed and said "we told you it was the pump". I told em I believed them since there was no prime, but still wanted to check the power and ground directly down below. You can image the lectures and stories from the past I got from them for suggesting they might be wrong.
Anyways, today I jacked it up and was preparing to siphon some gas from tank to make it a little easier on me. When i got underneath, i noticed a ground wire on the side just below the drivers door that was located on the rustiest spot I have ever seen. I said to myself, that had to be it. I took out the PP4 and as soon as I tapped the area - the whole piece( the nut , bolt, and wire, metal from car) completely detached from the car. I put the PP4 directly on that and it read from 0.38v-1v.
Long story shorter, I cut the green crusties out, butt connected a 18g wire with new piece on the end. I had to choose a new grounding point so since I already had the crossbar( supports fuel tank) off- I chose those bolt threads. I used a grinder to get the bolts, holes and each side of the crossbar that comes in contact with the bolt and car rust free. I wrapped the connections and added a loom. Reattached everything and squeezed dielectric grease in between for waterproofing., and sprayed Fluid Film on the bolt to inhibit rust and corrosion. Jumped in the truck and what do ya know- It fired right up! Re tested everything....ChaChing- Items returned-money saved!
Thanks Paul, I owe you thanks for my knowledge. I'm now at the point where I just know where and what to test and how to interpret the results sufficiently thanks to studying your book and free/paid videos. Sorry for writing a novel in your comments, but this was a major breakthrough and proud moment for me.
Don't apologize for the long story, it was awesome! Nice job man, seriously cool stuff and I'm proud of you man. You are the one who made this happen for yourself. I just provided the methods and you did all the work. God bless you my friend.
Good job
@@PaulCTownsend If that was for me thanks. I guess Im not the only one doing some late night studying. LOL
a great novel Isshman! thanks for sharing :D
@@ScannerDanner What is that diagnostic tool called and where can I get it?
This video is so good for so many reasons. 3 years old, but the two videos in this series about the towncar are probably the best fuel system diagnostics teaching explanation I have ever seen.
Thank you so much!
As a DIY'er who tries to do it himself you've taught me so much through these videos. Big thank you.
At 21:00 " Are you sure you know what you're doing?"-- nice one Caleb! These are always the hardest to explain, customer thinks we screwed up, boss thinks we miss diagnosed first time. You mentioned verifying fuel pressure after installing a new pump, it's also good to verify power and ground on new pump to make sure you are not dealing with resistance in wiring.
1990 Ford box truck, my business livelihood, on I 25 yesterday, it died right on an off ramp, almost got hit by 18-wheeler, got heat exhaustion and almost went to the ER. Now I know how to repair the damn thing so I can trust the truck again. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!! Your videos have all been great, this one will save by business!!
You didn't bring your power probe? WHAAAAT? I thought that you slept with your power probe, showered with your power probe, had it by your side at all times. I thought you had a concealed carry permit for your power probe.... Hey, thanks again for the free video. It was very informative and great to see you working with Caleb. I have two daughters so I never get to share my love of cars with them but at least they know how to check the oil and don't buy cheap gas and do the recommended maintenance.
If you don’t already have one, a non-contact tone generator would have saved you SO MUCH time on a job like this. I have the power probe tone generator. Last year I diagnosed a broken fuel pump wire that was grounded out on the frame. I spent a little while dicking around with a meter, but as soon as I hooked up the tone generator, it took less than 2mins to trace and and identify the fault. For me, it paid for itself on that one job. Nice work finding this one though!
Hey scanner Danner, i gave up before on several can't find a find a ground and made up a aligator clamp wire about 15 feet long and now its no problem on the rusty stuff. A perfect ground every time.
Ground, good battery that doesn't have a bad cell, bright and tight connections is the foundation of the "building".
The twists and turns of diagnostics. I see a video that's almost an hour long and I think, I don't have time to watch the whole thing. But as usual the drama unfolds and sure enough, the time flies by. It's fun to watch the moment when you find the issue. The steps and process were interesting as well.
I like this video because it is honest and because it is exactly the kind of dialogue that goes through my head when I work on cars. I make a theory and try to prove/disprove it before ordering parts. Often you reach for a wrong conclusion, bu along the way, you find the real failure, just like this guy. He is a good mechanic. A trick you can use if you aren't trying t educate someone else: keep quiet until the car is running again. That way you don't open yourself to hindsight criticism. Good video !! He shows the process and that will teach you diagnostics that you can do to get it fixed! Excellent!!!
I think I had that exact problem with my 95 town car. I never found the exact place, but when it would not start, I would take that relay module lose from its mounting tabs and wiggle it around and the car would start and run for a couple months until next time. Initially swapping out the relay (with WOT) would make it start, but later I realized it was just wiggling that module was what "fixed" it. That 95 has now been replaced with a 97 TownCar (not because of the pump issue). Great detailed troubleshooting video. I enjoy your process because I am now retired from Lockheed where I was doing that exact job on P-3 Orion aircraft and enjoy seeing you use the exact troubleshooting processes that kept me employed for 50 years and kept our customer wanting to keep me around. I have since become a private pilot and bought an aircraft so now play with my own airplane.
Thanks so much
Ah the real world of rusty cars and working out in the elements. Paul Danner - you're a real world trainer!
This man is best machanic I ever bumped into ! He good
"You can hardwire every connector" Great advise. I'm rolling down the highway in my 18 wheeler and a low beam headlight goes out. I buy and install a new one and take off down the road. its getting dark and I notice the new bulb is not lighting. Where did I hear someone say "don't be a parts changer?:"
Got out my volt meter and 0.0 volts at the headlight. The next connection is by the frame. I check the voltage 12.3 volts. I see lots of green corrosion in the connector. I snip out the old connector and crimp in some wire connectors. quick fix. It's all good.
You and your son are amazing. I use to take the truck to the dealership for this type of problem. NO DEALERSHIP, NO DOWNTIME!!!
Thank you, thank you thank you
Awesome man! So glad to help out the working man. Especially you truckers! You guys are the lifeblood of this nation. God bless you and keep you safe my friend
Nice job Caleb on the no light observation when your dad was dealing with the connection. Learning from the best. Thanks guys.
I know! He is learning a ton and getting paid to learn at the same time. It is a win, win, win situation. The final win being for you guys having better videos.
Great video! Detailed information and GREAT VISUALS! As I love older vehicles, 80's-90's I'm going through it with 2 Caprices not starting/stalling. New fuel pump, filter, relay, fuses, blah, blah. I'm a beginner DIY and hate the headache but LOVE the troubleshooting and positive end result. Thanks for taking the time SD!
I'm reluctant to get a newer vehicle as I know these 80'-90's were everyday drivers for many once upon a time. (I'm Ol'School)😊 These 3rd gen styles are, non-sensor, computer controlling everything, super EZ* to work on, plus there is no guarantee new vehicles won't give you probs. In the "Turds" offense, I have been neglectful and running to mechanics for a help as this costs me more $ & time etc having 2 of the same car. Knowing is half the battle with reg maintenance & ppl like you guys!
PS any suggestions?
no starting/stalling right? First thing I would do it get it to be a no start, then find out what you are missing (spark or fuel), then go from there. You are at a fork in the road and you are ether turning right or turning left and until we know which direction we are going it is USELESS to speculate
Scanner dan, brother... You are that dude man. I've learned so much about cars just watching your videos. God bless you always
I'm currently in Afghanistan and I work for the Deot of State. Your videos have helped me immensly. Thank you for the videos .
Paul, wanted to extend my thanks to you for this excellent video that you and Caleb did. I learned a bit on this one! Sure enough, I would have part cannon on that. But those is something I had problem occurring for quite a while, I had non functioning cruise control. I admit I part cannon on the switch and the control module itself. Didn't fix it. But I remember seeing your early video from years ago. Maybe 2 or 3. The pin on the plug going to the module was bad. I'm ashamed of myself for not checking the continuity or ground, open etc. At least I learned something out of this video. I hope I'll better myself in the future! 😀.
wow i would have changed the fuel pump, that is because I am a rookie and just learning!! but what a great job diagnosing this issue!!!! just like you told me to firs check the wiring on my o2 sensor before changing it, now I understand why even more!!! awesome work !!!
Someone is paying attention and its awesome
Wow, a stuck closed fuel pressure regulator can cause a fuel pump to go bad.
This was one hell of a video, nice job Paul & Son......
sure can, the regulator being stuck closed causes way higher than normal pressure and nearly "deadheads" the pump, which means greatly increased load and very little fuel flow through it. the combination of fuel flowing through it and being submerged is what cools them! some cars will blow the fuse on hot days in that scenario.
also when the tank is low, they're only partially submerged and rely further on the fuel flow for cooling.
on single line systems the regulator is in tank or the pressure is computer controlled by varying pump speed.
throttle bottle
Thanks for your comments, very informative.
another good one Paul and Caleb. Just shows how electrical problems can be wiring more often than parts. Good one guys. Plenty of sweat at least there were no mosquitoes. ❤
Arthur Fricchione Yeah that would have made it absolutely miserable for those guys.
Fourth cause might be contamination in the tank, rust, sugar, etc...to wipe out a new pump. Seen it on a few cars over the years. Great video ScannerDanner! Keep up the good work man.
yep, debris in the tank/clogged strainer sock is a common one too.
I was thinking the same thing. I just did a Jeep grand cherokee and when I pulled the old pump out i could see all kinds of black debris sloshing around the bottom of the tank. I had to flush it out completely.
Joe's Auto Electric Your absolutely correct about that sugar in the tank diagnosis. In my young and stupid childish days I messed up someone's vehicle with that trick.
Joe's Auto Electric AAx
@@BigD1395 Yeah my brother once dated some psycho bitch that recommended us to do the sugar down the gas tank damage to a neighbor we didn't get a long with. Low and behold, the psycho bitch does it to my brother on his old 1988 Sentra he had 10 years back. This was a grown up 30 year old ho with 3 kids that we took in our house and helped out with her kids. I had my brother junk the shit as a lesson to him. He barely knows how to change a tire and I wasn't going to to all the work for him. Lesson learned, he never dated another psycho bitch again. But if you were young when you did this, at least that's forgivable. But not by that person you did it to I assume.
Excellent Diagnostic and information Sir!
My 91 has same dam problem.
Going to use this method.
The same connector on mine was corroded. Thank you so much for posting this tip Sir.
That was reality. You earn your money. I'm just trying to figure out why my car cuts out after a few seconds. New fuel filter, pump, it makes no difference. I hear a click from the rear (pump?) so assume it's getting power. I'm exhausted watching you work! Thank you!
Nice video as usual. Enjoy the family time. My sons 4 and is always “helping” when I’ve got a car on the driveway. He has is own dirt cheap socket set,screwdrivers and tiny deadblow hammer. He loves it and sometimes it will take me twice as long to do a job but I wouldn’t have it any other way.
You’re smart buddy I’m going through the same thing on my car and I’ll checking connectors too Very helpful video
i just wanted to thank you so much for the time you take making these videos. I have a 98 Jeep Laredo, and to date I have diagnosed a bad crank sensor , correctly, i might add. having issues with the ecu but this model is notorious for that. I would be driving down the road at night and no problems, until of course a cop would get behind me, then whammo, no lights! Or worrse yet, lose all power. Of course the cops would pull me over, and go away laughing when they saw the kids swimming noodle i had jammed in between the overflow container and the ecu! i am a little more professional now, lol. I have since installed new exhaust system, Heat shield, fuel pump (yuck!), and as soon as my new ecu is flashed, will confidently be able to make sure there are no open circuits or shorts before i install it. Again thank you so much! The exhaust is a long story , as it involved running over amile marker post the wrong way. luckily it missed the engine, but not my floorboard on passenger side nor my exhaust. after it sounded like my boat , 455 bb olds, and you got a little high driving! But I digress! Thank You Scanner Danner
I agree with you about using a test light vs a muliti meter. Sometimes when you have a high resistance connection, a mulit meter will register 12V but a test light would not. This is because multi meters have a very high input impedance so they don't "stress" the high resistance connection like the test light does.
Paul & Caleb excellent attention to detail !!! My 2016 Nissan Rouge taillight stopped working- darn terminal wasn't locked into place on the connector...even newer cars are susceptible !
I have experienced super loose things that gave me problems. Turns out it was pink too, just like that power wire. :-) Great job Paul and your son is a terrific camera guy/extra set of eyes.
You sure it wasn't round and brown.
I had pin fitment issue at the computer on a 94 Oldsmobile 88 body style it cause the car to die almost had to be towed home is cousin intermittent crank signal and then it had other pin fitment issues causing other problems after so much testing realized it was pin fitment problem your videos are so helpful and wonderful keep up the great work
I congratulate you for everything you do to demonstrate all the ways to be sure of your diagnosis, you are great doing this, I am not a mechanic, but I really like to learn something you know someday this will help you all this, keep going that God bless you.
Working on mining equipment in Australia, you always seem to leave yourself open for comebacks, regardless of the job. I've had to explain to customers that if your operators stopped attempting repairs, without extensive knowledge, reoccurring issues would be minimal, and new issues would be minimised, and even with photographic proof, the difficulty is recharging for the same repair. Arguments always ensure and you just admit defeat but we will refuse to repair if the issue reoccurs due to operator interference or will repair but the hourly rate triples. Great educational vid. 👍👍
that sounds like a good way to get a bad rep. What you should do is explain what was different.. In this case, the connector could have contributed or caused the first fuel pump to die, however with the new pump showing proper pressure that means it was getting the proper voltage and connection after the first repair.. and being that the car drove for 3 months, suggest that if this connector had a problem back then it would be unknowable with the connector seated properly during the time it was in for repair and the following 3 months. It is indeed a separate issue billing wise.
After seeing power on both sides of the inertia switch I very surprised to learn the open was under the hood instead of between the inertia switch and the fuel pump's ground, so I want to express gratitude for the important lesson about the big difference of it being on the control side of the relay instead of the power side.
BTW: It was interesting to witness (and feel) your extreme frustration while expecting a failed pump change to celebration when the wiggle test exposed the cause.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Brother. How you are not over 1million subs is a shame. But it’s more quality than quality.
A GREAT real world diagnostic video. Thank you for sharing, professor.
Nice diagnosis guys! Gotta love it when it comes down to a pin in a connector. Thanks!
I love your raw videos like this, and thanks for your hard work producing these videos, Im a old school retired mechanic from the days of positive earth cars. and follow you as entertainment along with for the most understanding your train of thought, I still get called on to sort problems out on the newer cars with no complaints from me as I love the thrill of finding the problem. Keep up the great work. All the best from the UK ps great camera work on this video.
Great video Paul I love this stuff. Easy to wrench harder to diagnose. I use jumper cable ground sometimes to get a good known ground in the back of the car. Wish my teenagers would come out with me.
The joy of mobile Diag. Too hot in summer, too cold and wet in winter. Working off gravel and grass. Great video, great Diag and some real life frustration. What more could we ask for 👍 Thanks Paul & Caleb 👋
Simply Diagnostics peouget expert h d I cuts out when I give it to much trottle to quick
Edward mc veigh McVeigh could be anything, damaged harness, blocked exhaust, water in fuel etc. I’d put a post up in Paul’s forum. There’s a good few brits in there that can help with euro diesel Diag techniques. Hope this helps. Steve.
Seen this happening a lot. Unplug your maf sensor and try and recreate cut out and if I was a betting man I would guarantee it stops. Sometimes cleaning it works if not it will need replacement. I’m a rac patrol and it’s a regular fault and another problem with same symptoms is your fuel pressure sensor on the high pressure pump on engine the second will need a scan tool with live data to see it.
hey, take this somewhere else!! haha just kidding, Steve has earned his right to do as he pleases here on my channel. Love you bro
Paul, there’s no way I could direct a question to anywhere else but your forum, book and premium channel in your comments. I just couldn’t do it 👍
i remember working on EEC-IV and as i recall every flow chart had a wiggle test and if the wiggle test failed repair or replace harness watching you in this video brought back those horrible nightmares.
I have an interview this week at a Chevy dealer I’m hoping I get it and will be able to afford your premium channel and as always great content
Good luck Jay
I wish you good providence Jay! Thank you so much!
I had brand new fuel pumps go out in a couple days parts are junk these days Nice video
This is best video you you made its so entertaining and fun to watch . Ive been a technician 30 years love watch your vids . Being a guy originally from London your working a classic old americn cruiser love it !
Thanks Rick, that is a nice compliment
I worked at a class 8 truck dealership for almost 14 years doing a lot of electrical work. I did many repairs just like you did on those terminals simply because the only alternative was to replace an entire harness., which the management actually preferred because it was more profitable for them. I saved every wire harness I got my hands on for the terminals and connectors which were not available separately. We would just cut a pigtail with a good terminal from an old harness and splice and heat shrink., quick and easy, and cheap. I caught hell from the service manager who thought my old service cart stacked up with old harnesses was unsightly. I finally gave in and moved them out, right to my pickup and brought them home to my shop. I still have them for when I need a repair part. After that, the other techs who also utilized my stockpile got upset since we no longer had a supply of terminals and connector bodies. The parts department started selling more harnesses, but customers had to wait longer as well as paying through the nose for new parts which were not stocked and had to be ordered. The manager caught hell once I told the others he didn't want me to keep my supply.
That sucks man
Great find Paul! You always have interesting case studies! 👍
On an older car you can expect almost anything. How many heat/cold cycles has that connector pin been through over the years? Very well done video Paul and Caleb.
Paul
Great video and diagnosis. As I said in part 1 I have an EEC-IV 5.0L in my early Fox so I know these circuits well. Good job and kudos to Caleb for great camera work and questions/observations.
Happy fathers day (my father is in heaven) and God bless you both.
Paul
So is mine my friend. Since I was 6 months old. But i know he is in heaven too and i will see him again one day. When i open my eyes on the other side, I will see Jesus first, then my dad :-)
Happy Fathers Day to you too
Not sure if it was mentioned but here I go. Good job Scannerdanner. I've learned a number of good lab scope skills by watching you work. I do have an issued with this vid though. When testing for SPARK. Don't touch ground, or the car for that matter, with you hand or any other body part. And always, this is important, always use the hand furthest away from your heart. Ok I'm done. Y'alls can hate on me now.. haha
A 12 volt ignition coil won't hurt you :-)
Good video, always do an after the repair check. I am a retired tech of 45 years. I have beaten on tank to start vehicles with bad pumps, my only reservation is beating could jar a bad connection near the pump and ruin the chance of finding the real problem.
Thank you Paul and Caleb. Bless u both. Good job.
I’ve learnt so much from this channel. I’ve really stepped up my diagnosis ability. 👍👍👍
Any idea why the car has a problem stalling out ? My 1995 Ford Explorer also stalls out while driving at low idle. Thank you for another great and informative video. Best automotive teacher on the Web.
Wow, rare to see such knowledge and dedication in a man's profession. Big Thumbs Up my friend, Thanks, Awesome Video!
Hi there Mr. Danner
Very good video, I have learned a lot from you keep up the good job, you are an excellent teacher.
One test I like is an amp test on the load circuit (at the relay) to see if the amps are high meaning the pump is struggling conversely, if low then a poor circuit in or to the pump.
Sometimes i think it takes longer to find a good ground here in the rust belt than it takes for the actual diagnoses and repair lol.Great video Paul keep them coming.
Tracy Diller shoot you guys think you've got it bad in PA you should try it down here in Northeast Florida. Oh man Soo much moisture in our area.
BigD1395 I'm here in Michigan but I don't envy you brother that's got to be bad.
Tracy Diller yeah just for instance it's been raining here for the past week.
BigD1395 Oh man that's gotta suck.
I'm happy to live in a rust free area. Oftentimes my problem is getting through the paint that isn't rusted away. Power Probe to the rescue!
typical problem with GM 3.1 and 3.4 too. The connector running behind the alternator have same issues of female pin and getting fuel injector trouble codes. Good video.
We Diagnostic Mechanics sometimes over think things..... I too do this, and costs me time, it's better to walk away and take a Break?
Thanks for all your Vids.....
Glad to see I'm not the only person who has "snugged up" a connector terminal!
you can always clip the "test light" clip on to power side and try to get ground with the probe end. it's a bit easier to dig through the rust that way, but it still doesn't work perfectly either.
Thank god for this crew of guys. Very very talented
I've been watching tons, of mechanic videos for a while now between a few guys i like, you ETCG, South Main and DIagnos Dan i believe. I have a trick i use in my kit i bring to work on my cars that i came up with years ago. I've seen no one else use it. I keep about 25ft of wire with alligator clips on each end, solely for the purpose of having a definite ground all the time, (connect to battery). Now that being said there may be a reason some may not do this but it works for me. If its not a good idea, please let me know. Oh one more, for an integrity test for wires i have an old headlight bulb that runs at about 4.5 amps i use. Love your videos. Thank You.
Amazing video. I understood everything. Thank you so much for the new knowledge. Love that tool. It is basically a jumper wire in a way but you can check your powers and grounds at the same time. Thank you
You answered my question regarding barnacles when you said you were in Pennsylvania and the rust issue.
I figured you charged for all this but wow thank you for your time and knowledge that’s awesome!
Jerry PEAL I did also, Paul is a very good man for blessing his friend Pete for sure!
Every High School should have a ScannerDanner teaching shop! Wow!
My instructor onece had mentioned Ford literally had jiggle test in its trouble shooting procedures, going around and jiggling connectors for the obvious reason. Regarding the idle ford used a solenoid style iac called idle control valve it had a pluging up history, sort of egr style ports & pintle would get dirty, stuck etc. and cause idle issues, most of the time Carb cleaner would take care of it. Very cool case study.
Haha yeah the "wiggle test' thanks!
Ive never ran across a new pump being bad, although I have heard of it. But my first thought after replacing the pump and continuing to have no pressure would have me bench testing my old pump. Then the internal prongs... only because I have ran into that situation many times on my old ford trucks. Lol. New to your channel. Thanks for your video.
😂. I just had brand new DELPHI dead out of the box. Didnt put out 6psi. Was a re/re/re new pumps are garbage. 2so far that do not produce the spec pressure (50psi) and fuel pressure regulators not holding pressure producing a long crank to start. everything has been replaced. Filter. Fuses.relay. Harness end. checked powers grounds. 3rd one a charm? I hope so or Its not a fixable vehicle due to afturdmarket junk.
That spark test was neat! Im not a mechanic so I've never seen that. Nice!
Even the best techs will have callbacks, and how they treat the customer and deal with it makes all the difference. This is a brilliant case study! Kinda reminds me of the turd cars I drive, ha ha ha. As you found the loose connector pins, I wondered if somehow you could have had an intermittent failure there that was OK when you were testing for power and ground at the pump originally. If the connection was OK when tested, you had no possible way to find it, especially if you tested with a 6 amp load, looking for voltage drops. I suppose one could have fed 12 V to the pump after dropping the tank, but by that point you've already committed to replace the pump. This one is a further reminder that you want to build as much evidence as you can before you replace a part. At a callback your documented evidence will be there to support you when smart-ass students ask questions, ha ha ha.
Great video I found your information really helpful I've been going to the same problem with my 94 Lincoln town car I've had to jump it many many times it cranks over but just didn't have enoughI could have been killing the fuel pump at the same time but probably the fuel pump was going out. Just got done cleaning my own injectors I should have done a continuity test first and check the fuel pump first will be watching your videos in the future.thanks
I'm not really far into this video yet but I'm going to say the fuel inertia switch can be a pain. i had an '88 Bronco II. Kept dying. I kept checking that the inertia switch was "engaged." After the 3rd fuel pump i unplugged the switch and checked for continuity. Nothing!!! When it got warm, the contact inside would bend away causing an open condition. SO frustrating, but i was so happy to finally find it. Ok, I'll finish watching the video now 😂
Great video! Love watching the diagnostics and problem solving!
I almost always take the power probe on a service call. Awesome videos keep it up.
Had one throwing crazy codes ,lot on new parts on vechicle turns out it was a corrode ground cable
Just like u show in this video test,test,test & test again dont rush to condem parts
Great video
Here's an interesting power ground , short fuel pump life case for you. 96 k1500 pickup 5.7 v8. Repeatedly burning out fuel pumps.
Battery neg cable grounds to block, block to ground strap corroding, battery has a small cable to the sheet metal. Pump has ground and runs. But excessive current draw was
Front the pumps. Fix was to add a battery cable type link from the block to the frame, and a 8 gauge link from the frame to the body.
Truck also had flickering interior lights, burned wiring t the blower motor and burned out radios.
Failure by design by chevy, ground straps were way to small to carry the current load.
You must be one of the happiest dads, to share this with your son =) he is improving =) 😀
great work i love how you handle the issue
Great videos Paul & Caleb - I had a fuel pump failing every six months, because customer runs fuel in tank low and since pump needs to be submersed to keep cool it burns out.
Gotta love Scanner Danner and his son Caleb, so professional...
Sometimes we get lucky when looking for broken wires, good catch on seeing the fuel pressure come up! I also liked the visual of the test light showing open and closed circuit.
About the two problem thing, let me tell you a story.
Once upon a time, a guys manlift was a crank, no start. I check and eventually find no power to the fuel pump. I Google up a wiring diagram and start tracing power for the fuel pump and in the control panel I have power so I decide to check for power at the main engine connector. When I go to pull it apart, a wire comes out. The pin is still there, but the wire broke at the crimp. Fix it, test it, and send him a bill.
This is Friday. Monday I get the same call.
Insert sad face here.
I pull up and before I even get out of the truck I can smell that it is getting fuel. Do spark checks and no spark, no power to the coil. Back to the control panel and again, track down power. I have it on one side of a big, inline fuse so I want to check it on the other side but it is a shielded, female spade connector, so I grab it to pull it off to get on the male side and the wire pulls out at the crimp!
SAME type of failure (bad crimp) on TWO different systems on consecutive days!
Too many times we hear of mechanics being told that there were two different problems, when in reality there was just one and they didn't do proper troubleshooting, so I was sure to thoroughly explain to my new customer what I found each time and sent him another bill.
And everyone lived happily ever after.
Didn't know restricted fuel filter and stuck regulator can kill fuel pump. Thanks for perfect (as usual) video!
Very nice job explaining how you reason this pump problem through! I was following you all the way. You guys make a good team also.
Had a similar situation with an even on a 01 Dodge Grand Caravan that was purchased for $200 don in the southern states (no rust problems here) engine wouldn't run good pulled codes from ecm using the 3 key cycle method that Dodge/Crysler did back then and found it to have multiple fault codes that didn't coralate with each other went to start it up to do a drive test and when I did noticed when I slammed the hood down it went to running better so I focused on wiring near the hood area just to find it was the ECM connecter having the issue so I started poking around on the ECM wiring when I poked on the bottom connecter it went to a no crank situation so I disconnected the ECM connecters and reconnected it and the vehicle runs flawlessly now even corrected the a/c problem took a bit to get to there without the tools but got there in the end so I chopped my problem up to a pin fitment issue as well
Great video Paul. Every time I see pin fit it’s super hard to catch in the act. When you were talking about how to charge for this job all I could think of is that you would need a hell of a service writer to sell that job!
After bending the pin for better connection you could apply Deoxit D100L in the little brush bottle to lubricate and clean the pins. Deoxit has lubricating properties which helps sprung tangs engage without bending.
My 1990 Town Car had a wire problem on this same connector for another circuit. I just bypassed it.
Something up with that weather pack connector supplier?
Great video, enjoyed the logic and workflow.
can't believe u guys give this thumbs down u guys r jealous haters
15 parts changers who dont have basic auto electrical skills and couldn't keep up
people who want to be shown what fuse to change or button to press to reset fuel pump , when they realise they have to actually learn something troubleshoot and test , thumbs down .
Could have hit inadvertently, I've done it plenty times myself
great vid asking again how is your brother doing hope everything is ok and is he going to be back on you tube learn so much from both of you thanks mike
I hope so , James is an amazing guy.
He is great guys, thanks! Just a busy person and even though he started something good, he seems like he is not interested in continuing. I hope he changes his mind too.
LOng story short - Had at least a year old problem 06 Sentra and took it to a couple shops and didn't fix it . It was not revving up no matter if i floored pedal . It was gas pump and I went to junk yard got it for $34 including warranty . That was yesterday now running like a champ like new !! Yeah at very beginning suspected it might be pump but went with shop's recommendation . I trouble shooted it myself
Really enjoyed the video, ohm meters/continuity tests work on wires, but I have found that a test light works better because it provides a load to the circuit, I feel that this is a more definitive test and I know both you and Eric O. have mentioned this numerous times... Thanks for what you do. And it really bothers me for people criticizing, the whole thing about poking holes in wires... sometimes its necessary and they need to just get over themselves.
Nice video. Remember a voltage meter might show voltage with no load so the incandescent test light is better in my book. Use both if you prefer.
Thank you for this great vid had same problem in my 2000 Lincoln would crank wouldn’t start, changed crank position sensor had fuel pressure but couldn’t figure out where it was losing power and it was that exact problem with the connectors
I think this is a great example of how digital work orders can save your butt! If you have a video document and show the customer the problem the first time, you should not have to worry about it beeing a “comeback”.
Amazing work. Thanks for taking us along!
what a coincidence i have a 1996 lincoln Continental doing this same exact thing and the behavior of the car makes me think its electrical like this car ive learned alot from scanner danner
Scannerdanner.com is my freakin homepage. DANNER IS THE MAN!!
Thank you Rene Mejia! And I'm still giving you guys great quality free videos too right?
Absolutely! I recommend you to all the techs I know and meet. "Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning stays young. The greatest gift is to keep your mind young" - Henry ford
Тот самый Линкольн из бригады)))
😎
Thanks Paul!
It’s a 1990 car so.......that’s my short answer, I love it. Hahaha I’m a Chevrolet tech of 10 years now. Doesn’t get better than this, learning and entertainment. Love scanner Danner. Would love to come learn a thing or 2!
Thank you Ryan!