New Fuel Pump, No Fuel Pressure Diagnosis (Lincoln Towncar comeback)
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2018
- Is it a comeback? What did I do wrong? Did the new pump fail after only 2 months? Here is the link to the original repair • Ford EEC-IV No Start N...
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Video breakdown:
- fuel pressure test 1:18
- testing for spark 4:46
- fuel pump relay testing 8:30
- relay to pump continuity test using a test light 10:40
- fuel pump tap test 13:29
- causes of new fuel pump repeat failures 15:08
- first check of power and ground at the fuel pump 18:14
- open circuit? must recheck with a known good ground 20:32
- testing the inertia switch 21:16
- direction change, importance of retracing steps 22:55
- known good ground retest of the fuel pump power 25:18
- open circuit identified, missing power to the pump 27:12
- where is the open? where does one start looking? 29:00
- visual inspection of the harness using the test light as a guide 33:17
- how to get paid on a "comeback" 39:00
- faulty connector identified 42:00
- connector terminal removal and tightening 45:16
- I am a dumb-ass 47:33
- pin drag test 49:00
- final thoughts 53:43
For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdanner.com/join-sc... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. 
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I had a Scanner Danner moment today Paul. My son's 03 Envoy would not start many miles away from home immediately after he filled his gas tank. He managed to start it once and brought it to a part time mechanic that his grandfather recommended. The mechanic said it was 100% fuel pump but he didn't have a lift to change it out, I just dropped the tank on my 04 Trailblazer a month ago or so, so I reluctantly told him I'll be there to get AAA to bring it to my garage. In the meantime my son ordered, then picked up a fuel pump and filter for $375. I told him NOT to open any box or lose any receipts until I did more testing.
When we were getting it towed, 4 old timers were around including my in-law, who were adamant it was the pump. I tested for 2 power feeds at the relay, and bi bidirectionally ran the relay- confirming the PCM was doing its job. The old timers laughed and said "we told you it was the pump". I told em I believed them since there was no prime, but still wanted to check the power and ground directly down below. You can image the lectures and stories from the past I got from them for suggesting they might be wrong.
Anyways, today I jacked it up and was preparing to siphon some gas from tank to make it a little easier on me. When i got underneath, i noticed a ground wire on the side just below the drivers door that was located on the rustiest spot I have ever seen. I said to myself, that had to be it. I took out the PP4 and as soon as I tapped the area - the whole piece( the nut , bolt, and wire, metal from car) completely detached from the car. I put the PP4 directly on that and it read from 0.38v-1v.
Long story shorter, I cut the green crusties out, butt connected a 18g wire with new piece on the end. I had to choose a new grounding point so since I already had the crossbar( supports fuel tank) off- I chose those bolt threads. I used a grinder to get the bolts, holes and each side of the crossbar that comes in contact with the bolt and car rust free. I wrapped the connections and added a loom. Reattached everything and squeezed dielectric grease in between for waterproofing., and sprayed Fluid Film on the bolt to inhibit rust and corrosion. Jumped in the truck and what do ya know- It fired right up! Re tested everything....ChaChing- Items returned-money saved!
Thanks Paul, I owe you thanks for my knowledge. I'm now at the point where I just know where and what to test and how to interpret the results sufficiently thanks to studying your book and free/paid videos. Sorry for writing a novel in your comments, but this was a major breakthrough and proud moment for me.
Don't apologize for the long story, it was awesome! Nice job man, seriously cool stuff and I'm proud of you man. You are the one who made this happen for yourself. I just provided the methods and you did all the work. God bless you my friend.
Good job
@@PaulCTownsend If that was for me thanks. I guess Im not the only one doing some late night studying. LOL
a great novel Isshman! thanks for sharing :D
@@ScannerDanner What is that diagnostic tool called and where can I get it?
This video is so good for so many reasons. 3 years old, but the two videos in this series about the towncar are probably the best fuel system diagnostics teaching explanation I have ever seen.
Thank you so much!
This man is best machanic I ever bumped into ! He good
The twists and turns of diagnostics. I see a video that's almost an hour long and I think, I don't have time to watch the whole thing. But as usual the drama unfolds and sure enough, the time flies by. It's fun to watch the moment when you find the issue. The steps and process were interesting as well.
If you don’t already have one, a non-contact tone generator would have saved you SO MUCH time on a job like this. I have the power probe tone generator. Last year I diagnosed a broken fuel pump wire that was grounded out on the frame. I spent a little while dicking around with a meter, but as soon as I hooked up the tone generator, it took less than 2mins to trace and and identify the fault. For me, it paid for itself on that one job. Nice work finding this one though!
1990 Ford box truck, my business livelihood, on I 25 yesterday, it died right on an off ramp, almost got hit by 18-wheeler, got heat exhaustion and almost went to the ER. Now I know how to repair the damn thing so I can trust the truck again. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!! Your videos have all been great, this one will save by business!!
As a DIY'er who tries to do it himself you've taught me so much through these videos. Big thank you.
At 21:00 " Are you sure you know what you're doing?"-- nice one Caleb! These are always the hardest to explain, customer thinks we screwed up, boss thinks we miss diagnosed first time. You mentioned verifying fuel pressure after installing a new pump, it's also good to verify power and ground on new pump to make sure you are not dealing with resistance in wiring.
You didn't bring your power probe? WHAAAAT? I thought that you slept with your power probe, showered with your power probe, had it by your side at all times. I thought you had a concealed carry permit for your power probe.... Hey, thanks again for the free video. It was very informative and great to see you working with Caleb. I have two daughters so I never get to share my love of cars with them but at least they know how to check the oil and don't buy cheap gas and do the recommended maintenance.
Ah the real world of rusty cars and working out in the elements. Paul Danner - you're a real world trainer!
"You can hardwire every connector" Great advise. I'm rolling down the highway in my 18 wheeler and a low beam headlight goes out. I buy and install a new one and take off down the road. its getting dark and I notice the new bulb is not lighting. Where did I hear someone say "don't be a parts changer?:"
Got out my volt meter and 0.0 volts at the headlight. The next connection is by the frame. I check the voltage 12.3 volts. I see lots of green corrosion in the connector. I snip out the old connector and crimp in some wire connectors. quick fix. It's all good.
You and your son are amazing. I use to take the truck to the dealership for this type of problem. NO DEALERSHIP, NO DOWNTIME!!!
Thank you, thank you thank you
Awesome man! So glad to help out the working man. Especially you truckers! You guys are the lifeblood of this nation. God bless you and keep you safe my friend
I like this video because it is honest and because it is exactly the kind of dialogue that goes through my head when I work on cars. I make a theory and try to prove/disprove it before ordering parts. Often you reach for a wrong conclusion, bu along the way, you find the real failure, just like this guy. He is a good mechanic. A trick you can use if you aren't trying t educate someone else: keep quiet until the car is running again. That way you don't open yourself to hindsight criticism. Good video !! He shows the process and that will teach you diagnostics that you can do to get it fixed! Excellent!!!
Wow, a stuck closed fuel pressure regulator can cause a fuel pump to go bad.
This was one hell of a video, nice job Paul & Son......
sure can, the regulator being stuck closed causes way higher than normal pressure and nearly "deadheads" the pump, which means greatly increased load and very little fuel flow through it. the combination of fuel flowing through it and being submerged is what cools them! some cars will blow the fuse on hot days in that scenario.
also when the tank is low, they're only partially submerged and rely further on the fuel flow for cooling.
on single line systems the regulator is in tank or the pressure is computer controlled by varying pump speed.
throttle bottle
Thanks for your comments, very informative.
Nice job Caleb on the no light observation when your dad was dealing with the connection. Learning from the best. Thanks guys.
I know! He is learning a ton and getting paid to learn at the same time. It is a win, win, win situation. The final win being for you guys having better videos.
That was reality. You earn your money. I'm just trying to figure out why my car cuts out after a few seconds. New fuel filter, pump, it makes no difference. I hear a click from the rear (pump?) so assume it's getting power. I'm exhausted watching you work! Thank you!
Nice diagnosis guys! Gotta love it when it comes down to a pin in a connector. Thanks!
I love your raw videos like this, and thanks for your hard work producing these videos, Im a old school retired mechanic from the days of positive earth cars. and follow you as entertainment along with for the most understanding your train of thought, I still get called on to sort problems out on the newer cars with no complaints from me as I love the thrill of finding the problem. Keep up the great work. All the best from the UK ps great camera work on this video.
I'm currently in Afghanistan and I work for the Deot of State. Your videos have helped me immensly. Thank you for the videos .
Thank you Paul and Caleb. Bless u both. Good job.
A GREAT real world diagnostic video. Thank you for sharing, professor.
Hey scanner Danner, i gave up before on several can't find a find a ground and made up a aligator clamp wire about 15 feet long and now its no problem on the rusty stuff. A perfect ground every time.
Scannerdanner.com is my freakin homepage. DANNER IS THE MAN!!
Thank you Rene Mejia! And I'm still giving you guys great quality free videos too right?
Absolutely! I recommend you to all the techs I know and meet. "Anyone who stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty. Anyone who keeps learning stays young. The greatest gift is to keep your mind young" - Henry ford
Great video! Love watching the diagnostics and problem solving!
Thank god for this crew of guys. Very very talented
Great find Paul! You always have interesting case studies! 👍
wow i would have changed the fuel pump, that is because I am a rookie and just learning!! but what a great job diagnosing this issue!!!! just like you told me to firs check the wiring on my o2 sensor before changing it, now I understand why even more!!! awesome work !!!
Someone is paying attention and its awesome
I have experienced super loose things that gave me problems. Turns out it was pink too, just like that power wire. :-) Great job Paul and your son is a terrific camera guy/extra set of eyes.
You sure it wasn't round and brown.
Glad to see I'm not the only person who has "snugged up" a connector terminal!
I’ve learnt so much from this channel. I’ve really stepped up my diagnosis ability. 👍👍👍
Paul, wanted to extend my thanks to you for this excellent video that you and Caleb did. I learned a bit on this one! Sure enough, I would have part cannon on that. But those is something I had problem occurring for quite a while, I had non functioning cruise control. I admit I part cannon on the switch and the control module itself. Didn't fix it. But I remember seeing your early video from years ago. Maybe 2 or 3. The pin on the plug going to the module was bad. I'm ashamed of myself for not checking the continuity or ground, open etc. At least I learned something out of this video. I hope I'll better myself in the future! 😀.
I think I had that exact problem with my 95 town car. I never found the exact place, but when it would not start, I would take that relay module lose from its mounting tabs and wiggle it around and the car would start and run for a couple months until next time. Initially swapping out the relay (with WOT) would make it start, but later I realized it was just wiggling that module was what "fixed" it. That 95 has now been replaced with a 97 TownCar (not because of the pump issue). Great detailed troubleshooting video. I enjoy your process because I am now retired from Lockheed where I was doing that exact job on P-3 Orion aircraft and enjoy seeing you use the exact troubleshooting processes that kept me employed for 50 years and kept our customer wanting to keep me around. I have since become a private pilot and bought an aircraft so now play with my own airplane.
Thanks so much
Great video! Detailed information and GREAT VISUALS! As I love older vehicles, 80's-90's I'm going through it with 2 Caprices not starting/stalling. New fuel pump, filter, relay, fuses, blah, blah. I'm a beginner DIY and hate the headache but LOVE the troubleshooting and positive end result. Thanks for taking the time SD!
I'm reluctant to get a newer vehicle as I know these 80'-90's were everyday drivers for many once upon a time. (I'm Ol'School)😊 These 3rd gen styles are, non-sensor, computer controlling everything, super EZ* to work on, plus there is no guarantee new vehicles won't give you probs. In the "Turds" offense, I have been neglectful and running to mechanics for a help as this costs me more $ & time etc having 2 of the same car. Knowing is half the battle with reg maintenance & ppl like you guys!
PS any suggestions?
no starting/stalling right? First thing I would do it get it to be a no start, then find out what you are missing (spark or fuel), then go from there. You are at a fork in the road and you are ether turning right or turning left and until we know which direction we are going it is USELESS to speculate
Every High School should have a ScannerDanner teaching shop! Wow!
Nice video as usual. Enjoy the family time. My sons 4 and is always “helping” when I’ve got a car on the driveway. He has is own dirt cheap socket set,screwdrivers and tiny deadblow hammer. He loves it and sometimes it will take me twice as long to do a job but I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Very nice job explaining how you reason this pump problem through! I was following you all the way. You guys make a good team also.
That spark test was neat! Im not a mechanic so I've never seen that. Nice!
I agree with you about using a test light vs a muliti meter. Sometimes when you have a high resistance connection, a mulit meter will register 12V but a test light would not. This is because multi meters have a very high input impedance so they don't "stress" the high resistance connection like the test light does.
another good one Paul and Caleb. Just shows how electrical problems can be wiring more often than parts. Good one guys. Plenty of sweat at least there were no mosquitoes. ❤
Arthur Fricchione Yeah that would have made it absolutely miserable for those guys.
i just wanted to thank you so much for the time you take making these videos. I have a 98 Jeep Laredo, and to date I have diagnosed a bad crank sensor , correctly, i might add. having issues with the ecu but this model is notorious for that. I would be driving down the road at night and no problems, until of course a cop would get behind me, then whammo, no lights! Or worrse yet, lose all power. Of course the cops would pull me over, and go away laughing when they saw the kids swimming noodle i had jammed in between the overflow container and the ecu! i am a little more professional now, lol. I have since installed new exhaust system, Heat shield, fuel pump (yuck!), and as soon as my new ecu is flashed, will confidently be able to make sure there are no open circuits or shorts before i install it. Again thank you so much! The exhaust is a long story , as it involved running over amile marker post the wrong way. luckily it missed the engine, but not my floorboard on passenger side nor my exhaust. after it sounded like my boat , 455 bb olds, and you got a little high driving! But I digress! Thank You Scanner Danner
i remember working on EEC-IV and as i recall every flow chart had a wiggle test and if the wiggle test failed repair or replace harness watching you in this video brought back those horrible nightmares.
Learning a lot from you guys, Paul and Caleb, thanks!
Paul & Caleb excellent attention to detail !!! My 2016 Nissan Rouge taillight stopped working- darn terminal wasn't locked into place on the connector...even newer cars are susceptible !
I congratulate you for everything you do to demonstrate all the ways to be sure of your diagnosis, you are great doing this, I am not a mechanic, but I really like to learn something you know someday this will help you all this, keep going that God bless you.
Amazing work. Thanks for taking us along!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Brother. How you are not over 1million subs is a shame. But it’s more quality than quality.
Great job Paul, an excellent video and diagnosis ! Viewing from Puerto Rico !
Amazing video. I understood everything. Thank you so much for the new knowledge. Love that tool. It is basically a jumper wire in a way but you can check your powers and grounds at the same time. Thank you
The joy of mobile Diag. Too hot in summer, too cold and wet in winter. Working off gravel and grass. Great video, great Diag and some real life frustration. What more could we ask for 👍 Thanks Paul & Caleb 👋
Simply Diagnostics peouget expert h d I cuts out when I give it to much trottle to quick
Edward mc veigh McVeigh could be anything, damaged harness, blocked exhaust, water in fuel etc. I’d put a post up in Paul’s forum. There’s a good few brits in there that can help with euro diesel Diag techniques. Hope this helps. Steve.
Seen this happening a lot. Unplug your maf sensor and try and recreate cut out and if I was a betting man I would guarantee it stops. Sometimes cleaning it works if not it will need replacement. I’m a rac patrol and it’s a regular fault and another problem with same symptoms is your fuel pressure sensor on the high pressure pump on engine the second will need a scan tool with live data to see it.
hey, take this somewhere else!! haha just kidding, Steve has earned his right to do as he pleases here on my channel. Love you bro
Paul, there’s no way I could direct a question to anywhere else but your forum, book and premium channel in your comments. I just couldn’t do it 👍
Not sure if it was mentioned but here I go. Good job Scannerdanner. I've learned a number of good lab scope skills by watching you work. I do have an issued with this vid though. When testing for SPARK. Don't touch ground, or the car for that matter, with you hand or any other body part. And always, this is important, always use the hand furthest away from your heart. Ok I'm done. Y'alls can hate on me now.. haha
A 12 volt ignition coil won't hurt you :-)
great work i love how you handle the issue
Great video Paul I love this stuff. Easy to wrench harder to diagnose. I use jumper cable ground sometimes to get a good known ground in the back of the car. Wish my teenagers would come out with me.
I'm not really far into this video yet but I'm going to say the fuel inertia switch can be a pain. i had an '88 Bronco II. Kept dying. I kept checking that the inertia switch was "engaged." After the 3rd fuel pump i unplugged the switch and checked for continuity. Nothing!!! When it got warm, the contact inside would bend away causing an open condition. SO frustrating, but i was so happy to finally find it. Ok, I'll finish watching the video now 😂
Wow, rare to see such knowledge and dedication in a man's profession. Big Thumbs Up my friend, Thanks, Awesome Video!
Excellent Diagnostic and information Sir!
My 91 has same dam problem.
Going to use this method.
The same connector on mine was corroded. Thank you so much for posting this tip Sir.
Great find. Kicked butt in a frustrating situation.
That was excellent! Caleb and you make a great team :)
Niamh Healy yeah they do, don't they?
You must be one of the happiest dads, to share this with your son =) he is improving =) 😀
Good job thank you very much I learn a lot from you. This is one of the the RUclips channel I always be around!
PAUL, great video and good info as always. thank you and cheeeeeeeers
I almost always take the power probe on a service call. Awesome videos keep it up.
Your the man! I'm going to school watching you. Great job! Thanks
After seeing power on both sides of the inertia switch I very surprised to learn the open was under the hood instead of between the inertia switch and the fuel pump's ground, so I want to express gratitude for the important lesson about the big difference of it being on the control side of the relay instead of the power side.
BTW: It was interesting to witness (and feel) your extreme frustration while expecting a failed pump change to celebration when the wiggle test exposed the cause.
love to watch your vids,i learn a great deal from...THANK YOU!!!
I had pin fitment issue at the computer on a 94 Oldsmobile 88 body style it cause the car to die almost had to be towed home is cousin intermittent crank signal and then it had other pin fitment issues causing other problems after so much testing realized it was pin fitment problem your videos are so helpful and wonderful keep up the great work
Gotta love Scanner Danner and his son Caleb, so professional...
You answered my question regarding barnacles when you said you were in Pennsylvania and the rust issue.
Ive never ran across a new pump being bad, although I have heard of it. But my first thought after replacing the pump and continuing to have no pressure would have me bench testing my old pump. Then the internal prongs... only because I have ran into that situation many times on my old ford trucks. Lol. New to your channel. Thanks for your video.
hi there, very good video Mr Danner. God bless you every day, and thanks for sharing your knowlegde with us
Working on mining equipment in Australia, you always seem to leave yourself open for comebacks, regardless of the job. I've had to explain to customers that if your operators stopped attempting repairs, without extensive knowledge, reoccurring issues would be minimal, and new issues would be minimised, and even with photographic proof, the difficulty is recharging for the same repair. Arguments always ensure and you just admit defeat but we will refuse to repair if the issue reoccurs due to operator interference or will repair but the hourly rate triples. Great educational vid. 👍👍
that sounds like a good way to get a bad rep. What you should do is explain what was different.. In this case, the connector could have contributed or caused the first fuel pump to die, however with the new pump showing proper pressure that means it was getting the proper voltage and connection after the first repair.. and being that the car drove for 3 months, suggest that if this connector had a problem back then it would be unknowable with the connector seated properly during the time it was in for repair and the following 3 months. It is indeed a separate issue billing wise.
Fourth cause might be contamination in the tank, rust, sugar, etc...to wipe out a new pump. Seen it on a few cars over the years. Great video ScannerDanner! Keep up the good work man.
yep, debris in the tank/clogged strainer sock is a common one too.
I was thinking the same thing. I just did a Jeep grand cherokee and when I pulled the old pump out i could see all kinds of black debris sloshing around the bottom of the tank. I had to flush it out completely.
Joe's Auto Electric Your absolutely correct about that sugar in the tank diagnosis. In my young and stupid childish days I messed up someone's vehicle with that trick.
Joe's Auto Electric AAx
@@BigD1395 Yeah my brother once dated some psycho bitch that recommended us to do the sugar down the gas tank damage to a neighbor we didn't get a long with. Low and behold, the psycho bitch does it to my brother on his old 1988 Sentra he had 10 years back. This was a grown up 30 year old ho with 3 kids that we took in our house and helped out with her kids. I had my brother junk the shit as a lesson to him. He barely knows how to change a tire and I wasn't going to to all the work for him. Lesson learned, he never dated another psycho bitch again. But if you were young when you did this, at least that's forgivable. But not by that person you did it to I assume.
Great job guys! Lots of lessons to be learned packed into the Towncar Saga.
I agree!
Thank you!
As always, amazing job Paul
Hi there Mr. Danner
Very good video, I have learned a lot from you keep up the good job, you are an excellent teacher.
I had brand new fuel pumps go out in a couple days parts are junk these days Nice video
You’re smart buddy I’m going through the same thing on my car and I’ll checking connectors too Very helpful video
I think you did one heck of a job man good work awesome.
Great video ScannerDanner!
I figured you charged for all this but wow thank you for your time and knowledge that’s awesome!
Jerry PEAL I did also, Paul is a very good man for blessing his friend Pete for sure!
This is best video you you made its so entertaining and fun to watch . Ive been a technician 30 years love watch your vids . Being a guy originally from London your working a classic old americn cruiser love it !
Thanks Rick, that is a nice compliment
Here's an interesting power ground , short fuel pump life case for you. 96 k1500 pickup 5.7 v8. Repeatedly burning out fuel pumps.
Battery neg cable grounds to block, block to ground strap corroding, battery has a small cable to the sheet metal. Pump has ground and runs. But excessive current draw was
Front the pumps. Fix was to add a battery cable type link from the block to the frame, and a 8 gauge link from the frame to the body.
Truck also had flickering interior lights, burned wiring t the blower motor and burned out radios.
Failure by design by chevy, ground straps were way to small to carry the current load.
You Eric, and Eric 'O' are great Diagnostic mechanics here in u tube wish I could find one like that here in west Michigan
That was a verry good, informative video. I found the problem on my 1992 lincoln town car and fixed it relatively quick thanks to this video. Good job, didnt cost me shit!
Paul
Great video and diagnosis. As I said in part 1 I have an EEC-IV 5.0L in my early Fox so I know these circuits well. Good job and kudos to Caleb for great camera work and questions/observations.
Happy fathers day (my father is in heaven) and God bless you both.
Paul
So is mine my friend. Since I was 6 months old. But i know he is in heaven too and i will see him again one day. When i open my eyes on the other side, I will see Jesus first, then my dad :-)
Happy Fathers Day to you too
On an older car you can expect almost anything. How many heat/cold cycles has that connector pin been through over the years? Very well done video Paul and Caleb.
Thank you for this great vid had same problem in my 2000 Lincoln would crank wouldn’t start, changed crank position sensor had fuel pressure but couldn’t figure out where it was losing power and it was that exact problem with the connectors
great fix. highly enjoy your videos great work keep it up boss
Didn't know restricted fuel filter and stuck regulator can kill fuel pump. Thanks for perfect (as usual) video!
Even the best techs will have callbacks, and how they treat the customer and deal with it makes all the difference. This is a brilliant case study! Kinda reminds me of the turd cars I drive, ha ha ha. As you found the loose connector pins, I wondered if somehow you could have had an intermittent failure there that was OK when you were testing for power and ground at the pump originally. If the connection was OK when tested, you had no possible way to find it, especially if you tested with a 6 amp load, looking for voltage drops. I suppose one could have fed 12 V to the pump after dropping the tank, but by that point you've already committed to replace the pump. This one is a further reminder that you want to build as much evidence as you can before you replace a part. At a callback your documented evidence will be there to support you when smart-ass students ask questions, ha ha ha.
Great video I found your information really helpful I've been going to the same problem with my 94 Lincoln town car I've had to jump it many many times it cranks over but just didn't have enoughI could have been killing the fuel pump at the same time but probably the fuel pump was going out. Just got done cleaning my own injectors I should have done a continuity test first and check the fuel pump first will be watching your videos in the future.thanks
Really enjoyed the video, ohm meters/continuity tests work on wires, but I have found that a test light works better because it provides a load to the circuit, I feel that this is a more definitive test and I know both you and Eric O. have mentioned this numerous times... Thanks for what you do. And it really bothers me for people criticizing, the whole thing about poking holes in wires... sometimes its necessary and they need to just get over themselves.
I really appreciate you sharing your skillset! Your the Man-ner!! Very helpful as always! Thanks for sharing. Keep up the excellent work and good luck on all future projects! Ima lifelong Danner subscriber 👍👍
thank you Tom!
It’s a 1990 car so.......that’s my short answer, I love it. Hahaha I’m a Chevrolet tech of 10 years now. Doesn’t get better than this, learning and entertainment. Love scanner Danner. Would love to come learn a thing or 2!
Thank you Ryan!
you can always clip the "test light" clip on to power side and try to get ground with the probe end. it's a bit easier to dig through the rust that way, but it still doesn't work perfectly either.
great video SD like a suspense movie with a "twist" at the end I had a wiring diagram from BBB industries pulled up on another computer for a 90 town car 5.0 as I watched.
One test I like is an amp test on the load circuit (at the relay) to see if the amps are high meaning the pump is struggling conversely, if low then a poor circuit in or to the pump.
Sometimes i think it takes longer to find a good ground here in the rust belt than it takes for the actual diagnoses and repair lol.Great video Paul keep them coming.
Tracy Diller shoot you guys think you've got it bad in PA you should try it down here in Northeast Florida. Oh man Soo much moisture in our area.
BigD1395 I'm here in Michigan but I don't envy you brother that's got to be bad.
Tracy Diller yeah just for instance it's been raining here for the past week.
BigD1395 Oh man that's gotta suck.
I'm happy to live in a rust free area. Oftentimes my problem is getting through the paint that isn't rusted away. Power Probe to the rescue!
typical problem with GM 3.1 and 3.4 too. The connector running behind the alternator have same issues of female pin and getting fuel injector trouble codes. Good video.
Had one throwing crazy codes ,lot on new parts on vechicle turns out it was a corrode ground cable
Just like u show in this video test,test,test & test again dont rush to condem parts
Great video
fantastic all the basic points your the man much appreciated
thank you for your hard work. Many many thanks.
Scanner Danner, I enjoy your videos. You forgot more about diagnosing automotive issues than I will ever know. With that said, you need to have at least a 5mm space between your OriGlam Coil Spark tester and any ground in order to see the spark inside the tester. Just a minor point as you will see a spark either way.
That spark tester was the wrong tool for this. It had the same male end as the coil tower and the wire isn't insulated enough. There was no physical way to connect the tool to ground (as its supposed to be) and then also connect to the coil tower. It's meant to be used on a plug wire and I wanted to test it at the coil. Wrong tool for the job. I've had success in the past doing it this way, but in this case the wire was just too conductive to what it was near. Hope that makes sense why I wired it the way I did. Thanks!