Doing three thru-hole patches as a first timer, so I was eating through every second of the presentation. Thank you for your work in putting me in the know-how when others in PR just won't be available during holidays to assist, or having me wait for 4-6 weeks with no guarantee that they will get to me after that time.
Great vid, tried your method today, worked well. I was a little low after the patch so I kinda faired it with peanut butter resin\cabisol. faired it out today and it's looking god. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. One piece of advice though. Always let polyester cure a good two weeks before applying epoxy. That’s one of the downsides of working with polyester, as is the weaker secondary bond.
Great video! Nice to see some professional work for a change! I have done thruhull repair in both polyester and epoxy. I know everyone swears by epoxy, but the second boatyard I worked in, did virtually every repair in polyester including installing a bowthruster in a fishboat. The secondary bond is not as strong as epoxy, but it is usually good enough if prepared properly. Looking forward to your other projects.
Did you flair in inside of the hull at the same ratio, or just enough to get some glass on it? I have a thru hull i'd like to fill, but it's not in a good location to flair the inside. Thanks.
I appreciate the creator's video and seeing his technique, which employs a method similar to an instructional video by Jamestown Distributors I watched recently on patching holes. I'm new to all of this, so I won't argue methodology, but on a side-note, I heard the perspective on the other approach (small-to-large) that justified that method, as well. Interestingly, that method was validated by some people who had been trained in fiberglass repair by the Navy as well as someone in commercial aircraft manufacturering. Thee rationale for the small-to-large approach is that each layer makes some contact with the hull and the new fiberglass runs paralell with the original layers, which they say is favorable when considering stresses from an engineering perspective. I'm sure that quality work, properly mixed quality resins, and otherwise good materials will ensure both methods wont ever present a vessel integrity or safety issue, so I don't bring this up to be in disagreement, but I do find it interesting that these two opposite methods each seem to be fairly common.
Great comment .. I'll stay with the large to small. You can't tie into the original long strands anyway so if it's a matter of stress the patch is only as good as the bond of the first layer. After that you're just building up thickness. I do alternate with bi-axial for local strength.
Hi mate ive watched this video twice i have a thru hull tranasducer hole to fill and repair and like you i will be fighting gravity ,with my limited work area it means i am under the trailer while i do this have cut a hole in the floor where i will apply a layer or two of csm then grind the underside and ill probably only do a few layers at a time rather than have the whole lot move on me and end up doing it again as i say i am fighting gravity great video for someone like me who has neverhad to patch a hole in a hull ,oh and polyester is my choice like you because the whole boat is made from it .
1.10.21 A very clear demonstration of how to grind, taper, patch and fair your thru hull fitting. How about some hull blisters next time? Best wishes! Hector
Yes the taper will give u more surface area for your patches to stick too. And you can build up more layers making it stronger and not go above the original hull.
Doing three thru-hole patches as a first timer, so I was eating through every second of the presentation. Thank you for your work in putting me in the know-how when others in PR just won't be available during holidays to assist, or having me wait for 4-6 weeks with no guarantee that they will get to me after that time.
Thanks for this video. I definitely learned a thing or two! Next time we haul out I want to be a little more hands on instead of having the work done.
Great vid, tried your method today, worked well. I was a little low after the patch so I kinda faired it with peanut butter resin\cabisol. faired it out today and it's looking god. Thanks for sharing.
Nice job! Thanks for sharing
Great video. Thank you!
Great video. One piece of advice though. Always let polyester cure a good two weeks before applying epoxy. That’s one of the downsides of working with polyester, as is the weaker secondary bond.
Thanks for posting!
Great video! Nice to see some professional work for a change! I have done thruhull repair in both polyester and epoxy. I know everyone swears by epoxy, but the second boatyard I worked in, did virtually every repair in polyester including installing a bowthruster in a fishboat. The secondary bond is not as strong as epoxy, but it is usually good enough if prepared properly. Looking forward to your other projects.
Can gelcoat bond to epoxy ?
awesome patch man.
Nice work!!
Did you flair in inside of the hull at the same ratio, or just enough to get some glass on it? I have a thru hull i'd like to fill, but it's not in a good location to flair the inside. Thanks.
One of the few guys doing it the right way.
I appreciate the creator's video and seeing his technique, which employs a method similar to an instructional video by Jamestown Distributors I watched recently on patching holes. I'm new to all of this, so I won't argue methodology, but on a side-note, I heard the perspective on the other approach (small-to-large) that justified that method, as well. Interestingly, that method was validated by some people who had been trained in fiberglass repair by the Navy as well as someone in commercial aircraft manufacturering. Thee rationale for the small-to-large approach is that each layer makes some contact with the hull and the new fiberglass runs paralell with the original layers, which they say is favorable when considering stresses from an engineering perspective.
I'm sure that quality work, properly mixed quality resins, and otherwise good materials will ensure both methods wont ever present a vessel integrity or safety issue, so I don't bring this up to be in disagreement, but I do find it interesting that these two opposite methods each seem to be fairly common.
Great comment .. I'll stay with the large to small. You can't tie into the original long strands anyway so if it's a matter of stress the patch is only as good as the bond of the first layer. After that you're just building up thickness. I do alternate with bi-axial for local strength.
Hi mate ive watched this video twice i have a thru hull tranasducer hole to fill and repair and like you i will be fighting gravity ,with my limited work area it means i am under the trailer while i do this have cut a hole in the floor where i will apply a layer or two of csm then grind the underside and ill probably only do a few layers at a time rather than have the whole lot move on me and end up doing it again as i say i am fighting gravity great video for someone like me who has neverhad to patch a hole in a hull ,oh and polyester is my choice like you because the whole boat is made from it .
Just got email notification. Hope all went well with the patch .. glad I could be of assistance.
Ty
1.10.21 A very clear demonstration of how to grind, taper, patch and fair your thru hull fitting. How about some hull blisters next time? Best wishes! Hector
Is it necessary to make a taper?
Yes the taper will give u more surface area for your patches to stick too. And you can build up more layers making it stronger and not go above the original hull.
Marvellous to hear a sailor who can read! Waay too many call it BUY AXLE instead of BI AX I AL !