I am from Istanbul, Turkey. Thanks for the great video and explanations. It has been very helpful for me to understand the flanged seacocks. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the excellent expert instructions...technical, tips, and hacks. Glad I saw this before I started the thru-hull installation on my aluminum runabout. No doubt there would have been trouble ahead with my planned install. Now on to part two.
Amazing explanation, you've just answered a lot of questions I've been asking on forums, (waste of time and too much bitchiness). Haven't even got to the end yet, Thank you!
Thank you Thank you Thank you for pointing out the difference between straight thread and tapered National Pipe Thread. I just watched a "Professional Boat Builder's" (emphasis on the quotes) channel where he combined the two different thread types. I'm going to call it backyard boatbuilding.
That seacock you removed is Marelon and is ABYC certified and safe. The plastic 90? nah. But the seacock you had was marine green for below waterline use.
Dude! Information overload. You gave us way more information than was expected. Awesome job. I am super impressed by your knowledge. And I’m also super stoked to now retain the same knowledge my friend. Way #OfTheEpic gig man.......
Quote from Forespar FORESPAR® MARELON® Thru-hull/seacocks are corrosion free and provide great peace of mind in that regard. They are relatively maintenance free. Generally, lubrication is not required. What is required is to open and close them on a regular basis (4 times a year minimum). The frequency this is required is determined by two (2) things, whether the valves are routinely kept open or closed, and the rate of sea growth (weed and barnacles) in your area. If the rate of fouling is high and the valves are not actuated regularly, this build up of growth can cause any valve to turn hard or not at all. If the valve becomes stiff due to lack of use and sea growth build-up, it must be cleaned. The restriction of flow into the valve may cause harm to the machinery it serves and the valve may seize if not maintained. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE VALVE OR LOOSEN BOLTS EXCEPT IN EXTREME EMERGENCIES. All valves are factory pressure tested before shipping. Any adjustments to the bolts will void this testing and may void warranties. All MARELON® integrated valves have a removable plug in the handle (white cap with loop). This plug is made to fit into the external thru-hull (non-screened style only). In an emergency, this plug can be placed in the thru-hull (water pressure will keep it in) and the valve disassembled while the boat is in the water. Someone must get wet, but the boat does not need to be hauled for valve repairs. By tying a lanyard to the cap, you need only get wet once.
@@0718dm If *some* surveyors frown on modern plastic seacocks, then it follows that others do not; that suggests this is merely a matter of opinion rather an assessment based on indisputable evidence.
The marlon plastic is reinforced with fiberglass and will never freeze up due too electrolysis extremely durable long lasting and will never corrode , acetone is used to clean up after this installation,all those tools and you could have just bought the right tools for the job
hey russ.. if you used steel bolts in your retaining ring pound in nuts.. stop by a parts store and pickup a tube of Permatex 85420 flange sealant.. Also known as Hylomar. you can use hylomar as an anti seize in that application on the bolt threads.. heck you could use it on the mushroom threads into the sea cock base.. i have taken apart VW engine cases that had been assembled 16 years before and the Hylomar was still tacky.. its water proof.. gasoline proof.. oil proof. good for -50F to 500F.. you may want to get those out or somebody may want to get them out in the future. just for kicks. screw a bronze nut on a grade 8 steel bolt without antiseize in a jar of ocean water, screw together a pair with conventional antiseize.. and then a pair using hylomar as an antiseize.. let them sit on the shelf for a few months while you observe them.
Use the nut on the new mushroom with a piece of wood etc to suck the flange down while the epoxy is curing. after it is cured (permanent installation) you no longer need the nut or wood etc.
That is a marine ball valve it’s marlon valve and it’s designed to be threaded on all the way like that they call it a running thread . That valve is designed for below the water line the brass inserts are too be pressed in
I followed video but the mushroom has a small gap on one side when installed. This can't be good so removed mushroom cleaned off the 4200 and need a solution. Can anyone help me?
Marelon thru hulls have straight / parallel threads, they are Not tapered. There are marelon fittings with straight threads available to fit into to the top and the bottom of the marelon thru hull. The grey fitting on you original marelon thru hull may have been tapered thread, your boat builder may have used the incorrect fitting.
It was a 1985 boat, I assume the previous owner or builder, or some boat mechanic along the way used the wrong fitting. I've since sold her. Was a sad day, but it is nice not worrying about slip fees and storms.
using steel bolts with bronze fittings is not wise. also high temsile bolts are massive over kill as your brass seacok flange is much more brittle than a standard stanless bolt. bottom line is you will never break a stainless bolt before any of those other parts. high tensile bolts will rust very quickly and are going to cause electroylsis as its a more noble metal.
@@brianlinke6718 Yeah, sillicone bronze would probably be ideal. These were in with the galco back plate kit, and i'm wonder if it's because the threads in the back plate are hdg like the bolts included.
I think you are wrong. My understanding its that the white flange is to anchor 3 bolts inside the hull prior to gluing said flange on to the hull. why would you make more holes in your hull? As well you did not address the problem of corrosion between metals. The Marelon ball valve was a gooder why did you toss it? Get your facts straight prior to making a video.
@@maddogmaz1576 what about the galvanic interference between stainless, brass and bronze. I recall trying to unscrew brass pipe plugs out of my cooling system, only to have them crumble in my fingers. The zinc was gone, only the copper was left. If I had ignored that roadside and simply replaced brass with brass my boat would be at the bottom. USE BRONZE EVERYWHERE! ...and don't piss on me for keeping you safe.
I am from Istanbul, Turkey. Thanks for the great video and explanations. It has been very helpful for me to understand the flanged seacocks. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the excellent expert instructions...technical, tips, and hacks. Glad I saw this before I started the thru-hull installation on my aluminum runabout. No doubt there would have been trouble ahead with my planned install. Now on to part two.
Amazing explanation, you've just answered a lot of questions I've been asking on forums, (waste of time and too much bitchiness). Haven't even got to the end yet, Thank you!
Thank you Thank you Thank you for pointing out the difference between straight thread and tapered National Pipe Thread.
I just watched a "Professional Boat Builder's" (emphasis on the quotes) channel where he combined the two different thread types. I'm going to call it backyard boatbuilding.
Great Video. Awesome detail on materials and process. Thank you!
you explain everything brilliantly.
That seacock you removed is Marelon and is ABYC certified and safe. The plastic 90? nah. But the seacock you had was marine green for below waterline use.
Dude, legend love the way you work
Dude! Information overload. You gave us way more information than was expected. Awesome job. I am super impressed by your knowledge. And I’m also super stoked to now retain the same knowledge my friend. Way #OfTheEpic gig man.......
Absolutely brilliant video! TWO THUMBS UP! Thanks.
You are a life saver! thanks for the video
Please note backing plate works on flat areas, Sikaflex 291 is an excellent adhesive.
Video well done! Very informative! Thanks
Quote from Forespar
FORESPAR® MARELON® Thru-hull/seacocks are corrosion free and provide great peace of mind in that regard. They are relatively maintenance free. Generally, lubrication is not required. What is required is to open and close them on a regular basis (4 times a year minimum). The frequency this is required is determined by two (2) things, whether the valves are routinely kept open or closed, and the rate of sea growth (weed and barnacles) in your area. If the rate of fouling is high and the valves are not actuated regularly, this build up of growth can cause any valve to turn hard or not at all. If the valve becomes stiff due to lack of use and sea growth build-up, it must be cleaned. The restriction of flow into the valve may cause harm to the machinery it serves and the valve may seize if not maintained. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE VALVE OR LOOSEN BOLTS EXCEPT IN EXTREME EMERGENCIES. All valves are factory pressure tested before shipping. Any adjustments to the bolts will void this testing and may void warranties.
All MARELON® integrated valves have a removable plug in the handle (white cap with loop). This plug is made to fit into the external thru-hull (non-screened style only). In an emergency, this plug can be placed in the thru-hull (water pressure will keep it in) and the valve disassembled while the boat is in the water. Someone must get wet, but the boat does not need to be hauled for valve repairs. By tying a lanyard to the cap, you need only get wet once.
I have been told that some surveyors frown on Merelon as well as insurance co's.
@@0718dm If *some* surveyors frown on modern plastic seacocks, then it follows that others do not; that suggests this is merely a matter of opinion rather an assessment based on indisputable evidence.
If metal, seacocks need to be bronze. Brass is what you don't want to use. Brass is susceptible to dezincification.
The marlon plastic is reinforced with fiberglass and will never freeze up due too electrolysis extremely durable long lasting and will never corrode , acetone is used to clean up after this installation,all those tools and you could have just bought the right tools for the job
I just switched to all marelon seacocks
hey russ.. if you used steel bolts in your retaining ring pound in nuts.. stop by a parts store and pickup a tube of Permatex 85420 flange sealant.. Also known as Hylomar. you can use hylomar as an anti seize in that application on the bolt threads.. heck you could use it on the mushroom threads into the sea cock base.. i have taken apart VW engine cases that had been assembled 16 years before and the Hylomar was still tacky.. its water proof.. gasoline proof.. oil proof. good for -50F to 500F.. you may want to get those out or somebody may want to get them out in the future. just for kicks. screw a bronze nut on a grade 8 steel bolt without antiseize in a jar of ocean water, screw together a pair with conventional antiseize.. and then a pair using hylomar as an antiseize.. let them sit on the shelf for a few months while you observe them.
5200 is the gold standard for critical and under-the-water line installations. Why have a weak link of 4200?
Good presentation
what makes they nylon hybrid so effective is its ability to endure force, whereas metals break. nylon takes forever to tear...MOI in nerd circles.
Great job! Thanks.
Excellent video!
Wow great video
Use the nut on the new mushroom with a piece of wood etc to suck the flange down while the epoxy is curing. after it is cured (permanent installation) you no longer need the nut or wood etc.
That is a marine ball valve it’s marlon valve and it’s designed to be threaded on all the way like that they call it a running thread . That valve is designed for below the water line the brass inserts are too be pressed in
That marelon valve costs over 75 bucks at west marine. They are quality pieces
what size bolts fit the groco seacock/plate? gotta order some bronze bolts.
I'm not sure off hand, I'd measure but I actually sold the boat about a year and a half ago.
I followed video but the mushroom has a small gap on one side when installed. This can't be good so removed mushroom cleaned off the 4200 and need a solution. Can anyone help me?
Good, thanks for sharing.
Yes. I have a giant seacock
Marelon thru hulls have straight / parallel threads, they are Not tapered. There are marelon fittings with straight threads available to fit into to the top and the bottom of the marelon thru hull. The grey fitting on you original marelon thru hull may have been tapered thread, your boat builder may have used the incorrect fitting.
It was a 1985 boat, I assume the previous owner or builder, or some boat mechanic along the way used the wrong fitting. I've since sold her. Was a sad day, but it is nice not worrying about slip fees and storms.
Sick dude. Just found your channel and subscribe.
using steel bolts with bronze fittings is not wise. also high temsile bolts are massive over kill as your brass seacok flange is much more brittle than a standard stanless bolt. bottom line is you will never break a stainless bolt before any of those other parts. high tensile bolts will rust very quickly and are going to cause electroylsis as its a more noble metal.
You are correct about that. To keep things simple I just used what was included with the back-plate kit. I may end up changing them out to stainless.
@@russellsrandomness - Use bronze hardware with your bronze seacock, do not mix metals.
@@brianlinke6718 Yeah, sillicone bronze would probably be ideal. These were in with the galco back plate kit, and i'm wonder if it's because the threads in the back plate are hdg like the bolts included.
Excellent Information .
This video is very helpful! Russell, what size bolts did you used?
Mineral spirits to clean up 5200, 4200, or 4000
Nice seacock! xD
😂
Kerosene for cleanup. Sells at Walmart.
thanks a lot , very useful to me .
It's now over 600 pounds.😆
Me trying to find clam
Way too much bad info here.
Agree
I think you are wrong. My understanding its that the white flange is to anchor 3 bolts inside the hull prior to gluing said flange on to the hull. why would you make more holes in your hull? As well you did not address the problem of corrosion between metals. The Marelon ball valve was a gooder why did you toss it? Get your facts straight prior to making a video.
He said the white flange is to anchor 3 bolts inside the hull. Get your facts straight prior to making a stupid comment.
@@maddogmaz1576 The internet is an amazing thing. I made a comment 2 years ago...your giving me shit today??? Who pissed in your cornflakes?
@@maddogmaz1576 what about the galvanic interference between stainless, brass and bronze. I recall trying to unscrew brass pipe plugs out of my cooling system, only to have them crumble in my fingers. The zinc was gone, only the copper was left. If I had ignored that roadside and simply replaced brass with brass my boat would be at the bottom. USE BRONZE EVERYWHERE! ...and don't piss on me for keeping you safe.