Well, for a change - clear, articulate, no “dude” or street slang (which I was half expecting), no “umm”s and “ahh”s! WELL, WELL, DONE!! You deserve more followers and support. Do more videos please!
Excellent, detailed instructional video! Your series of Seacock videos gives me all the info I need to do the job: Tools required, tricks and tips, hardware required, sealant choices, adhesive choices, and "how to" to ice the cake. Well done. I am a professional mechanic. I have an old, newly acquired, old sailboat, and it needs 2 new thru-hulls. Of course, I want to DIY; however, I have never done this job on this kind of boat before, and I feel like I can go get it done now. This is one of the best "How To" videos I have seen, and I have watched thousands.
Thank you for being thorough in your RUclips video. It is often tiring to spend 15 minutes trying to gather installation information on important systems like this for your boat only to find out that the video was rushed, incomplete and missing important steps.
Very well done video. Clean, concise, detailed, and thorough. I only see two things that could be improved. 1. On the otter hull, there is no need to run the 4200 out on the hull in a ring around the mushroom head. This is esthetic rather than functional - while it doesn't hurt anything, it would look a lot better to have cleaned that off. 2. This IS functional. It appears you put your grounding wire on with just a car-style ring connector. Electrical connections in marine - especially salt water - especially in a bilge area - should always be done with marine heat shrink connectors and an extra length (2" or so) of heat shrink over the connector and up the wire. That wire will end up corroding at that connection, especially if tinned copper wire was not used. Other than those nit-picky points, very well done.
Two excellent videos sir, thank you! Whilst I agree with the robust and longevity of the proper bronze fittings certainly the latest plastic composite units (TruDesign probably the market leader now) meet all the safety standards and of course are lighter and don't suffer from electrolysis. Longevity I guess probably still to be proved. TruDesign also provide a load spreader to meet regs in the US market (not required in UK or EU although available still).
Great thorough explanation of the subject. I was busily taking notes through both segments. I was wondering how you got the mushroom to bottom out perfectly without having to cut it down a bit?
Hello Russell. Really appreciate the detailed video. I am installing the same seacock, but with Strainer, not mushroom. Also the strainer has 4 brass screws that will thread into bottom of hull. What are the sequence of steps considering the strainer will need to be sealed/secured to the bottom of the hull before the seacock is screwed on inside the hull. I would think you either have to forego the sealant on the underside of the seacock flange or accept that it will make a mess as it spins to align with the bolt holes. Thanks, in advance for the add'l advice
Very nice video! I'm an getting ready to do exactly this with my cockpit drain system. Thank you. I'll be using 4200 sealant with epoxy thickened with Cab-O-Sil (fumed silica). Do you recommend fast or slow hardener?
Good job. Did you put the 4200 around the flange, and did the thru hull nipple need to be trimmed( shortened) before threading into the valve? Thank you
Thank you, just trying to help some folks out. I did use 4200, maybe even 5200 around the flange, I can't remember at this point. haha. and the nipple didn't need to be trimmed because I had enough space.
Thank you Russell ! I am going to replace for my sailboat next month , I will copy like you do. Appreciated . But I still want to see how you apply SIX 10 on backing block . Do I need clamp or pressure on block ?
I used the mushroom fitting itself wrapped in teflon to prevent the six10 from bonding to the mushroom to clamp it. Snugged it down and let it sit overnight and then took the seacock and mushroom off for final sealant adhesive and assembly.
@@willyum1208 The fasteners for the seacock are only mechanically connected (with threads) to the backing plate. I wanted the bond between those threads and the hull to be as solid as can be. Where the 4200 would be able to be repaired in the future, as long as those threads don't get messed up that backing plate will never need to be repaired.
All done so well but....then to use 4200? A below the waterline fitting should be as bomb proof as possible. 5200 is the way to go with anything going thru the hull under the water line. Otherwise very nicely done :)
Never had a problem with that on the freshwater lake she was on, but in stinky waters I could see that being an issue. Thanks for the compliment and watching!
Dyi you should have used stainless steel bolts not steel your forgetting about water ang steel makes rust oops 😱 now you have rust stains in the boat . Yes acetone not lighter fluid,
Well, for a change - clear, articulate, no “dude” or street slang (which I was half expecting), no “umm”s and “ahh”s! WELL, WELL, DONE!! You deserve more followers and support. Do more videos please!
Excellent, detailed instructional video! Your series of Seacock videos gives me all the info I need to do the job: Tools required, tricks and tips, hardware required, sealant choices, adhesive choices, and "how to" to ice the cake. Well done. I am a professional mechanic. I have an old, newly acquired, old sailboat, and it needs 2 new thru-hulls. Of course, I want to DIY; however, I have never done this job on this kind of boat before, and I feel like I can go get it done now. This is one of the best "How To" videos I have seen, and I have watched thousands.
I just spent time watching Part 1 and Part 2. All i can say is THANK YOU!
Exceptional 2 part video series that stands the test of time. I learned things from you. thanks for posting!
Thank you for being thorough in your RUclips video. It is often tiring to spend 15 minutes trying to gather installation information on important systems like this for your boat only to find out that the video was rushed, incomplete and missing important steps.
Great video from guy who clearly knows how to do a good job-I have just bought a boat and this has given me a fantastic understanding.
Very well done video. Clean, concise, detailed, and thorough. I only see two things that could be improved. 1. On the otter hull, there is no need to run the 4200 out on the hull in a ring around the mushroom head. This is esthetic rather than functional - while it doesn't hurt anything, it would look a lot better to have cleaned that off. 2. This IS functional. It appears you put your grounding wire on with just a car-style ring connector. Electrical connections in marine - especially salt water - especially in a bilge area - should always be done with marine heat shrink connectors and an extra length (2" or so) of heat shrink over the connector and up the wire. That wire will end up corroding at that connection, especially if tinned copper wire was not used. Other than those nit-picky points, very well done.
Excellent video! Watching this gave me the confidence to tackle this job myself
Two excellent videos sir, thank you! Whilst I agree with the robust and longevity of the proper bronze fittings certainly the latest plastic composite units (TruDesign probably the market leader now) meet all the safety standards and of course are lighter and don't suffer from electrolysis. Longevity I guess probably still to be proved. TruDesign also provide a load spreader to meet regs in the US market (not required in UK or EU although available still).
Thank you so much for an excellent presentation. Jack, Gardiner, Maine
And... few people take the time to oppose hose clamps. You know your marine applications. Again, good job!
Thank you for the video. Helped me step through installing 2 new seacocks on my boat. Appreciate it.
Excellent video, very thorough explanation of a quality job!
Very nice RUclips video; great personality, information and presentation. Thank you very much!
Great thorough explanation of the subject. I was busily taking notes through both segments. I was wondering how you got the mushroom to bottom out perfectly without having to cut it down a bit?
Very nicely done, I'm doing the same project using the same parts. Great job.
Wow. This has been incredibly helpful. None of our sea cocks have grounding wires. No wonder they are so corroded in just one year.
Thanks again for the great video, it will save me money as I can now Do It Myself.
I’m stuck at 9:21. How do I remove the thru hull? You don’t show the “method”
Where did you get your parts
Hello Russell. Really appreciate the detailed video. I am installing the same seacock, but with Strainer, not mushroom. Also the strainer has 4 brass screws that will thread into bottom of hull. What are the sequence of steps considering the strainer will need to be sealed/secured to the bottom of the hull before the seacock is screwed on inside the hull. I would think you either have to forego the sealant on the underside of the seacock flange or accept that it will make a mess as it spins to align with the bolt holes. Thanks, in advance for the add'l advice
does the Teflon tape cause. A break in bonding?
Russ, how can you tell a seacock is open ? Does the lever have to be straight up? You pull it up to open and push it down to close?
Awesome video, Thanks. I understand how it works. I just don't know if I have a 3/4 or 1 inch seacock/valves for my 2005 Bayliner 245. Thanks again!!
The hose should say on it what size you use.
Hi. What size are the bolts for the flange and backing plate? Excellent video
I'm not sure, I actually ended up selling the boat or I'd check.
Well done Sir!
Very nice video! I'm an getting ready to do exactly this with my cockpit drain system. Thank you. I'll be using 4200 sealant with epoxy thickened with Cab-O-Sil (fumed silica). Do you recommend fast or slow hardener?
Great job Bro 👍 thanks for the vid
did you show how to trim the tru=hull fitting that screws into the valve ? cause i must of missed it,
EXCELLENT PRESENTATION.
why didn't you use the clam shell type that acts like a strainer ?
Good job. Did you put the 4200 around the flange, and did the thru hull nipple need to be trimmed( shortened) before threading into the valve? Thank you
Thank you, just trying to help some folks out. I did use 4200, maybe even 5200 around the flange, I can't remember at this point. haha. and the nipple didn't need to be trimmed because I had enough space.
That is the best Video to date on what I need to do to my boat very good detail what kind of boat do you have I am a new subscriber
Thank you! Im hoping to have more ckming very soon. Its a 1985 Bayliner Contessa 2850
mine is a 1987 Bayliner contessa 2850
Thank you Russell ! I am going to replace for my sailboat next month , I will copy like you do. Appreciated . But I still want to see how you apply SIX 10 on backing block . Do I need clamp or pressure on block ?
I used the mushroom fitting itself wrapped in teflon to prevent the six10 from bonding to the mushroom to clamp it. Snugged it down and let it sit overnight and then took the seacock and mushroom off for final sealant adhesive and assembly.
@@russellsrandomness Thank you so much .
@@russellsrandomness Why did you use epoxy and not 4200 to bond the backing plate to the hull?
@@willyum1208 The fasteners for the seacock are only mechanically connected (with threads) to the backing plate. I wanted the bond between those threads and the hull to be as solid as can be. Where the 4200 would be able to be repaired in the future, as long as those threads don't get messed up that backing plate will never need to be repaired.
Well done.
Perfect. Thank you soooooo much dude. You rule. #OfTheEpic
Great Work .
Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸
What are seacocks used for on a boat?
to cool the engine.
Do you use the 4200 on the thread of the thru-hull [you put your phone down!!] Really nice video. Very clear.
I have the same question. Covered every detail except that.
All done so well but....then to use 4200? A below the waterline fitting should be as bomb proof as possible. 5200 is the way to go with anything going thru the hull under the water line. Otherwise very nicely done :)
Great. Thank you
No mention of thru hull fitting length? Too long, can't tighten the backing plate and flange for bonding to hull. Good video.
I was wondering the same thing...seems like either his mushroom was exactly the right length or he decided not to let us see that part.
excellent.
Thanks heaps for that vid mate. Hey have you heard of trudesign fittings made in New Zealand?
I have not. Ill check then out
Nicely done. I have two I need to change. I will let you do mine. :-)
Perfect
4:15
You should’ve used fresh water hookup for toilet. Raw water is very nasty and smelly. Great video though.
Never had a problem with that on the freshwater lake she was on, but in stinky waters I could see that being an issue. Thanks for the compliment and watching!
Dyi you should have used stainless steel bolts not steel your forgetting about water ang steel makes rust oops 😱 now you have rust stains in the boat . Yes acetone not lighter fluid,
BATMAN
You didn't mention if you had to cut the thru hull to length
If you put PVA or Vaseline on the threads of the thu hull, your epoxy will not bind up. What you will get is a near screw in thread.