Thanks for the tips. I cancelled the plastic thru hulls and ordered stainless steel. I also cancelled the 5200 sealant and ordered the 4200. My old plastic thru hulls were degraded enough that I could grab and bend them from the inside till they snapped saving some work.
Nice "how to" I bought a prodject boat this spring and with work and life its taking longer than I planned. I totally get the the work it takes to keep a boat water worthy. Great video! Tight lines!
Wrong sealant, you wont be able to remove the thru hull fitting without damaging the hull with 5200 adhesive/sealant. Need to use 4200 sealant/adhesive which is good for below water line and still removable for the next change out.
I'm new to boating just bought a 19' CC. My through hull fitting for my foward fish compartments drain is at about the same location as yours. It's just gravity that drains the water as far as I can see. I was thinking that fitting would be above water line. It looks like the water line stain on the hull is above the fitting. Is that fitting under water when your loaded down? Doe's it sit below water line normally? I've read that if the boats foam is wet it can weigh the boat down putting scuppers and through hull fittings closer to or even under water. Over loading a boat could cause it to.
When working properly they help the boat drain deck water and water in the hatches out of the boat. When they have a crack or broken line they can take on water.
Above the waterline thru hulls are generally for drains. Below the waterline thru hulls are generally for water intakes that might feed something like a live bait well or a salt water washdown system.
I have the same exact boat. Do you know how I can change the deck drains. i took mine out because they were busted in and now have no idea how im going to get channel locks to go 6 ft inside a 3/4' hole.
Hey man. I just bought a 85 Grady white that looks about the same as this one. I was wondering if you have an videos about the live well. I have a huge space in the middle of the boat that looks like it may be setup to be a live well. It I’m not too sure and can’t find any videos about these older Grady whites live wells.
I think I need to replace the one on my 86 lowe 16' deep v but the rear of the boat has no access to the area that it is in. Has me scratching my head....lol
chasin_the_bite I’m doing this now and working through a small hatch which lets me access my batteries. It’s not easy to get in there, but doable. You might have to cut an access hole and cover it with a deck plate. When they manufacture most boats they likely plumb all of these fittings, install fuel and water tanks and most wiring. Then they drop the deck on and join it to the hull. This gives the factory great access. Us at home? Eh, not so much!
@@FishinWithFatt I actually plugged mine on the outside and filled the live well and didn't have a leak. I think I found a spot that had silicone on the bottom. When I removed the silicone the area under it was wet. I replaced it with 4200? marine grade sealer so hoping this fixes the issue. It's not horrible but I'm all about fixing it if I can find the issue. Just rewired the entire boat last weekend. 150' of power wire alone in a 16' boat lol.
chasin_the_bite Glad to hear you got it fixed. They (Century) barely used any sealant on both of my live well drains. But the fittings that go through the hull were buttered in 5200. Thank god for Anti- Bond 2015 remover!
This IS NOT how you do this, 1st you dont replace a sacrificial thru hull with another sacrificial thru hull unless you just love changing them out every 3-5yrs,, but hey dont let me keep you from wasting your time, unfortunetly my time is valuable so i use stainless or chromed bronze, next think is 5200 is perm adhesive , you would never use it on a sacrificial thru hull... right now i want to see the video of him changing it out again after the 5200.. lol
Thanks for the tips. I cancelled the plastic thru hulls and ordered stainless steel. I also cancelled the 5200 sealant and ordered the 4200. My old plastic thru hulls were degraded enough that I could grab and bend them from the inside till they snapped saving some work.
Nice "how to" I bought a prodject boat this spring and with work and life its taking longer than I planned. I totally get the the work it takes to keep a boat water worthy. Great video!
Tight lines!
ben houke yeah they are definitely a project from day one. Thanks for watching. Tight Lines!
Wrong sealant, you wont be able to remove the thru hull fitting without damaging the hull with 5200 adhesive/sealant. Need to use 4200 sealant/adhesive which is good for below water line and still removable for the next change out.
I'm new to boating just bought a 19' CC. My through hull fitting for my foward fish compartments drain is at about the same location as yours. It's just gravity that drains the water as far as I can see. I was thinking that fitting would be above water line. It looks like the water line stain on the hull is above the fitting. Is that fitting under water when your loaded down? Doe's it sit below water line normally? I've read that if the boats foam is wet it can weigh the boat down putting scuppers and through hull fittings closer to or even under water. Over loading a boat could cause it to.
great video, thanks. Did you remove the spray foam yourself and, if so, what'd you use to hack through it?
Just curious why not replace with stainless? I just bought a new old boat and I think I’m just gonna change all of mine, the boat is a 1989
Thanks for video. I have an '89 Overnighter. Stupid question but what role do those thru-hull fittings play? Never been clear on that. Thanks
When working properly they help the boat drain deck water and water in the hatches out of the boat. When they have a crack or broken line they can take on water.
Above the waterline thru hulls are generally for drains. Below the waterline thru hulls are generally for water intakes that might feed something like a live bait well or a salt water washdown system.
I have the same exact boat. Do you know how I can change the deck drains. i took mine out because they were busted in and now have no idea how im going to get channel locks to go 6 ft inside a 3/4' hole.
Mine had access holes under the consoles
Hey man. I just bought a 85 Grady white that looks about the same as this one. I was wondering if you have an videos about the live well. I have a huge space in the middle of the boat that looks like it may be setup to be a live well. It I’m not too sure and can’t find any videos about these older Grady whites live wells.
New boater. Just noticed this on my boat. Do I plug it, I can’t understand why there wouldn’t be a plug when it’s under the water line
Switch out for stainless fittins and live free!
I think I need to replace the one on my 86 lowe 16' deep v but the rear of the boat has no access to the area that it is in. Has me scratching my head....lol
chasin_the_bite I’m doing this now and working through a small hatch which lets me access my batteries. It’s not easy to get in there, but doable. You might have to cut an access hole and cover it with a deck plate. When they manufacture most boats they likely plumb all of these fittings, install fuel and water tanks and most wiring. Then they drop the deck on and join it to the hull. This gives the factory great access. Us at home? Eh, not so much!
Yeah those pesky boat manufacturers don’t plan for repairs. Sometimes you have to cut an access point.
@@FishinWithFatt I actually plugged mine on the outside and filled the live well and didn't have a leak. I think I found a spot that had silicone on the bottom. When I removed the silicone the area under it was wet. I replaced it with 4200? marine grade sealer so hoping this fixes the issue. It's not horrible but I'm all about fixing it if I can find the issue. Just rewired the entire boat last weekend. 150' of power wire alone in a 16' boat lol.
chasin_the_bite Glad to hear you got it fixed. They (Century) barely used any sealant on both of my live well drains. But the fittings that go through the hull were buttered in 5200. Thank god for Anti- Bond 2015 remover!
where did you buy that piece
Should never use 5200 on applications that may have to removed in the future.
Use two rubber washers instead bro
This is why I have 2,300 gph of pumping power in my bilge
Sorry, but 5200 shouldn't be used in this application. You use a caulking product, not an adhesive, which is what 5200 is.
This IS NOT how you do this, 1st you dont replace a sacrificial thru hull with another sacrificial thru hull unless you just love changing them out every 3-5yrs,, but hey dont let me keep you from wasting your time, unfortunetly my time is valuable so i use stainless or chromed bronze, next think is 5200 is perm adhesive , you would never use it on a sacrificial thru hull... right now i want to see the video of him changing it out again after the 5200.. lol
Yeah I want to see that shit too ! This is a follow up of what not to do .. 😂
Use 3M 4200, not 5200. 5200 is permanent!
4200 uggh
Go stainless steel!
No neex to use 5200. Use si.e silicne sealant. 40 yrs experience talking.nut holds fitting in place.
5200 will bond that shit on there permanently. I usually use 4200
No. Stop using 5200 my god. They should ban the shit. It’s only used in a handful of places and a maintenance item like this ISNT IT!!!
Haha I know your right , a handful of places might be to many 😂