Nice install Dan. I used to replace a ton of these on Princecrafts, always an unpleasant job. The access is terrible. What I eventually did was to eliminate the small round access hatch and install a rectangular access panel.
That was definitely the smart choice getting the stainless steel mesh strainer... not only to filter out smaller debris, but less chance of it breaking from impact
Thanks Phil, I thought the stainless was the way to go for exactly those reasons. I think the white plastic would aesthetically look better, but I mean its in the water, who cares? lol!
Thanks Matt! Wow ok that sucks about the plastic one, sounds like I made the right call on the metal mesh lol! Lots of Garmin stuff coming, I am going to *try* to have an unboxing this week :)
Hey mate great video! i was just wondering if the pump works aswell if you drive with 20 knots and gliding over the surface to go from one spot to antoher spot. Then it would suck air i guess.. i did the installation under the boat not at the transom. Also i suggest using a cupper Thru-hull with a valve and then connect the pump there then you have a valve in case of a problem and less problems in general with the cupper thru-hull. Kr, Nic
This video is exactly what I needed to watch. Just bought a boat with a live well i didn’t know it had one when I went to look at it. I had no idea why there was a 2nd drain plug on the boat I’m like do I have to put two plugs?? 🤣 am I gonna sink??
On my boat “Stratos Javelin 170” the install was done by omitting the white flange nut and using the black strainer as the flange nut. Thus getting a more flush fitting to the transom. It’s been working well for two seasons. Seemed like a install with less protruding from the transom. Should I reinstall with with flange nut? So far so good. Any thoughts?
Get a bronze seacock valve to attach the pump to the hull the proper way. then if the pump or hose breaks, you simply close the valve. Never rely on a bilge pump to save you from a leak..
just in case you have not found out yet, the 800 gph will supply more water than the gravity overflow can handle :) water will be flow out the top of the livewell lid. at any rate, more water faster is generally a good thing!
I was testing and running it last Friday in a pre-practice and I never had any problems with it overflowing, but I mean, you have a valve on the outlet that you can control the flow so I gather if you're blasting it too hard you can always just close the valve down until the flow is equal with the overflow. Haha I think I would have freaked out a little bit if I saw water pouring out of my Live well lid 🤣
I have the same pump. I can heat it turn on but it doesn’t always pump water. I think I have an air lock or something going on. Any suggestions on how to fix that?
I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. With your existing Attwood T500, you can just replace the cartridge to avoid all of the extra steps, correct? Or even just remove the cartridge just to clean it out and then test it again.
Great vid, but If I can make a sugestion, you should install a ball valve right after the pump before the hose. All holes in the transom should have ball valves with the exception of the drain plug.
Thanks Honro and thank you for the sub!! I'm not sure I understand why I would install a ball valve on a gravity based livewell system, I've never seen that on any boat I've been on. Especially if I always use the livewell, I would never close it. Would love to hear more about why you feel it should be installed!
@@DanRichardFishing No Probs - Been binge watching your vids lately! Reason why, is a source of contingency/saftey incase of a split hose, clamp breaking or just plain bad luck. IF that were to happen, you can reach in, and close the ball valve to stop your boat from flooding. Whilst the bildge will help slow down the incoming water if that were to happen, it cannot keep up with gravity/suction from a leak below the waterline, especially one that large. Rule of thumb is one pinhole in a boat is equal to 1lt of water per hour because suction. In Australia (where im from) every new boat now must have this by law :)
@@TheHonro okay that makes great sense, yeah around here that's definitely not a law and no boats that I've ever seen have that kind of thing. I think on mine by the time I figure out that it was the hose that broke on the live well and that's why the boat was flooding it'd be too late to fiddle around opening the bilge and trying to get my hand in there and close the valve but I see how that would be a good idea! Thanks so much for watching my videos I really really appreciate it and thanks for taking the time to explain this. Perhaps this will be a future howto video! All the best!
@@DanRichardFishing No worries bud! Its more so if it were to happen in the middle of a big lake (or ocean). "IF" it were to happen, and I understand its below the inspection hatch - its the same in my boat - you can at least reach in pull the lever & stop the leak and get home. If it weren't there and you were a fair way off from ur nearest ramp, most people simply would not have the time. Its not like the drain plug where you would notice the moment the boat came off the trailer hehe. But that is how quick it could flood. Its effectively just a precaution - and thanks for listening - most people these days seem to get offended at suggestions from others half way across the world! Its refreshing to see an attitude like yours mate! Well done!
The pump actually sit below the waterline, so as soon as the boat is in the water, there's actually water in the pump so it's technically primed. If your pump is above the waterline, then yes you may need a primer bulb.
@@DanRichardFishing thanks. I think I got mine figured out for a bait tank on a kayak so it is above the water line. Put in the primer bulb and it worked.
Have you done a video on fish care yet? I've briefly looked into G-juice and/or using water softener pellets. And is having your aerator pump running the whole day necessary?
I have not as I feel like I don't have enough experience keeping fish all day long to really get that detailed, but I do know the basics. Many folks SWEAR by the GJuice but in my case I can't use it because of the way my livewell system works... it constantly brings in fresh water when it runs so the GJuice would just get diluted and eventually be useless. If you have a recirculation system on your boat, it's a fantastic product. And yes, your livewell timer should be active throughout the day. The warmer the day, the shorter the intervals between it running. Another tip a lot of people use in the summer is to use frozen water bottles throughout the day to keep the water temps from getting too warm. Thanks so much for the question and for being a subscriber!
Hope you guys enjoy the install and is helpful for anyone looking to change out their aerator pump! Sorry about the filming snafu towards the end, not sure how I managed that!
Hi Terry, it's a waterline overflow drain. The way it works is when you add water to your livewell via in the intake pump, any water that goes higher than the top opening of the tube will drain in to your livewell drain down to the waterline. You can actually see the waterline level in your livewell if you emptied it and didn't connect the overflow pipe. Head out on the water and you'll see the livewell will have maybe 3 inches of water in it and won't go any higher. That's the waterline. So this system basically uses gravity to stop your livewell from overfilling and spilling in to your boat :)
Ok buy can you answer one more I see 2 holes drilled I. The tread in of the pipe that screws in the live well what are thos for and I guess I will leave my pump on all the time I'm on the water right
No, you'll cook your battery if you run it all day constantly. Before I had the timer I would just turn it on and off manually. I'd run it for like 5 minutes and then probably forget about it for 30 minutes and then run it again.
Bad advice. NEVER INSTALL ANYTHING BELOW THE WATERLINE WITHOUT A BRONZE SEACOCK!!! Your boat could sink if that plastic pos breaks for some reason. You have no way to stop the water.
I bought a pontoon boat last year and the livewell never worked. This is the first video I found that actually showed the install. Thanks.
You're very welcome, I hope you're able to fix it! Next video on the livewell will be installing an automatic timer switch :)
Good video! Much appreciated.
Good info,
Thanks for the video.
Nice install Dan. I used to replace a ton of these on Princecrafts, always an unpleasant job. The access is terrible. What I eventually did was to eliminate the small round access hatch and install a rectangular access panel.
That's not a bad idea at all, what did you use for the access panel?
@@DanRichardFishing I'll try and find it online and post a photo
@@DanRichardFishing sent you some pics on messenger
Looks like you just gave me another project 😂
That was definitely the smart choice getting the stainless steel mesh strainer... not only to filter out smaller debris, but less chance of it breaking from impact
Thanks Phil, I thought the stainless was the way to go for exactly those reasons. I think the white plastic would aesthetically look better, but I mean its in the water, who cares? lol!
Great info and video.
Great video Dan. Good choice on the metal screen I had the plastic one fail after 1 season. Looking forward to seeing your Garmin installs😎
Thanks Matt! Wow ok that sucks about the plastic one, sounds like I made the right call on the metal mesh lol! Lots of Garmin stuff coming, I am going to *try* to have an unboxing this week :)
Excellent advise clear explanation thanks brother
Hey mate great video! i was just wondering if the pump works aswell if you drive with 20 knots and gliding over the surface to go from one spot to antoher spot. Then it would suck air i guess.. i did the installation under the boat not at the transom. Also i suggest using a cupper Thru-hull with a valve and then connect the pump there then you have a valve in case of a problem and less problems in general with the cupper thru-hull. Kr, Nic
This video is exactly what I needed to watch. Just bought a boat with a live well i didn’t know it had one when I went to look at it. I had no idea why there was a 2nd drain plug on the boat I’m like do I have to put two plugs?? 🤣 am I gonna sink??
On my boat “Stratos Javelin 170” the install was done by omitting the white flange nut and using the black strainer as the flange nut. Thus getting a more flush fitting to the transom. It’s been working well for two seasons. Seemed like a install with less protruding from the transom. Should I reinstall with with flange nut? So far so good. Any thoughts?
Great video. I would recommend a bilge pump of higher flow than the livewell pump in case of any hose failure.
Get a bronze seacock valve to attach the pump to the hull the proper way. then if the pump or hose breaks, you simply close the valve. Never rely on a bilge pump to save you from a leak..
just in case you have not found out yet, the 800 gph will supply more water than the gravity overflow can handle :) water will be flow out the top of the livewell lid. at any rate, more water faster is generally a good thing!
I was testing and running it last Friday in a pre-practice and I never had any problems with it overflowing, but I mean, you have a valve on the outlet that you can control the flow so I gather if you're blasting it too hard you can always just close the valve down until the flow is equal with the overflow. Haha I think I would have freaked out a little bit if I saw water pouring out of my Live well lid 🤣
I have the same pump. I can heat it turn on but it doesn’t always pump water. I think I have an air lock or something going on. Any suggestions on how to fix that?
I just want to make sure I'm not missing something. With your existing Attwood T500, you can just replace the cartridge to avoid all of the extra steps, correct? Or even just remove the cartridge just to clean it out and then test it again.
Tks for the tutorial!
You're very welcome!
Great vid, but If I can make a sugestion, you should install a ball valve right after the pump before the hose. All holes in the transom should have ball valves with the exception of the drain plug.
Thanks Honro and thank you for the sub!! I'm not sure I understand why I would install a ball valve on a gravity based livewell system, I've never seen that on any boat I've been on. Especially if I always use the livewell, I would never close it. Would love to hear more about why you feel it should be installed!
@@DanRichardFishing No Probs - Been binge watching your vids lately! Reason why, is a source of contingency/saftey incase of a split hose, clamp breaking or just plain bad luck. IF that were to happen, you can reach in, and close the ball valve to stop your boat from flooding. Whilst the bildge will help slow down the incoming water if that were to happen, it cannot keep up with gravity/suction from a leak below the waterline, especially one that large. Rule of thumb is one pinhole in a boat is equal to 1lt of water per hour because suction. In Australia (where im from) every new boat now must have this by law :)
@@TheHonro okay that makes great sense, yeah around here that's definitely not a law and no boats that I've ever seen have that kind of thing. I think on mine by the time I figure out that it was the hose that broke on the live well and that's why the boat was flooding it'd be too late to fiddle around opening the bilge and trying to get my hand in there and close the valve but I see how that would be a good idea! Thanks so much for watching my videos I really really appreciate it and thanks for taking the time to explain this. Perhaps this will be a future howto video! All the best!
@@DanRichardFishing No worries bud! Its more so if it were to happen in the middle of a big lake (or ocean). "IF" it were to happen, and I understand its below the inspection hatch - its the same in my boat - you can at least reach in pull the lever & stop the leak and get home. If it weren't there and you were a fair way off from ur nearest ramp, most people simply would not have the time. Its not like the drain plug where you would notice the moment the boat came off the trailer hehe. But that is how quick it could flood.
Its effectively just a precaution - and thanks for listening - most people these days seem to get offended at suggestions from others half way across the world! Its refreshing to see an attitude like yours mate! Well done!
In other videos people connect a primer bulb to the pump is that needed to prime the pump with water or no?
The pump actually sit below the waterline, so as soon as the boat is in the water, there's actually water in the pump so it's technically primed. If your pump is above the waterline, then yes you may need a primer bulb.
@@DanRichardFishing thanks. I think I got mine figured out for a bait tank on a kayak so it is above the water line. Put in the primer bulb and it worked.
Have you done a video on fish care yet? I've briefly looked into G-juice and/or using water softener pellets. And is having your aerator pump running the whole day necessary?
I have not as I feel like I don't have enough experience keeping fish all day long to really get that detailed, but I do know the basics. Many folks SWEAR by the GJuice but in my case I can't use it because of the way my livewell system works... it constantly brings in fresh water when it runs so the GJuice would just get diluted and eventually be useless. If you have a recirculation system on your boat, it's a fantastic product. And yes, your livewell timer should be active throughout the day. The warmer the day, the shorter the intervals between it running. Another tip a lot of people use in the summer is to use frozen water bottles throughout the day to keep the water temps from getting too warm. Thanks so much for the question and for being a subscriber!
Hope you guys enjoy the install and is helpful for anyone looking to change out their aerator pump! Sorry about the filming snafu towards the end, not sure how I managed that!
Ok how dose the over follow work mine have that tube as well but I don't know how it really works
Hi Terry, it's a waterline overflow drain. The way it works is when you add water to your livewell via in the intake pump, any water that goes higher than the top opening of the tube will drain in to your livewell drain down to the waterline. You can actually see the waterline level in your livewell if you emptied it and didn't connect the overflow pipe. Head out on the water and you'll see the livewell will have maybe 3 inches of water in it and won't go any higher. That's the waterline.
So this system basically uses gravity to stop your livewell from overfilling and spilling in to your boat :)
Ok buy can you answer one more I see 2 holes drilled I. The tread in of the pipe that screws in the live well what are thos for and I guess I will leave my pump on all the time I'm on the water right
A video of how the over flow works in the live well will be nice I scared I going to shank my boat even though I have to Bilge pubs
when you do this does the boat have to be out of water to install new aerator
If the aerator or any of the connections you are replacing or opening are below the water line, you must get the boat out of the water.
When you don't have a timer, are you running at all times?
No, you'll cook your battery if you run it all day constantly. Before I had the timer I would just turn it on and off manually. I'd run it for like 5 minutes and then probably forget about it for 30 minutes and then run it again.
@@DanRichardFishing thanks, first bass boat.
tres bien expliqué merci je dois changé mienne
Great video!!! Why don’t you get yourself a bigger access hole? 😂 Like a 10” or so
Thanks so much and definitely a larger bilge access is on the project list lol! I already have the new cover picked out and everything 😂
I had that same pump! Both cracked
Dang, what part cracked on it?!
@@DanRichardFishing it cracked were the pump impeller is!
Bad advice. NEVER INSTALL ANYTHING BELOW THE WATERLINE WITHOUT A BRONZE SEACOCK!!! Your boat could sink if that plastic pos breaks for some reason. You have no way to stop the water.
No way? Hahaha, carry a plug or toilet wax. Reach over, unscrew the strainer and plug it up.