LOCO SHED LIGHTING at Chadwick Model Railway | 198.
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Lighting around the loco shed area, can bring a touch of realism to your layout.
This time we fit strip lighting to the fuel depot area here at Chadwick Model Railway 198.
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Fantastic timing Charlie! Just as your latest U tube delivery arrived, my wife, bless her, decided to watch an episode of “Love Island”. Can’t thank you enough.
That sounds like “The Great Escape!”Regards, Charlie
Great demonstration. Thank for the solution for lighting up buildings and awnings. Support your local hobby shops everyone. Lol
Thanks Bob, regards Charlie
"Scalpels don't take prisoners."
I was entirely expecting to see a plaster round your finger in the next shot.🤣
Or perhaps Andrew, a tourniquet!
Regards, Charlie
Or a cut to A&E at the Royal Devon and Exeter Hospital.
"Stop all leave" comment at 26 ish minutes brought back memories of old! Great video. A job for the dexterous wife's fingers, me thinks.
Thanks Tony, much appreciated.
Regards Charlie
Nice one Charlie. When you woz a youngster I was slightly younger and I can still remember the sound of the town gas lights in the local station waiting rooms.
I wish that I had that privilege.
Regards Charlie
Was chatting earlier today with a modeler up in the north country and we were remarking on how we modelers are living in something of a "golden age" for details, parts and accessories. I remember all too well the "joys" of "microlighting" meaning using 11 or 13mm "grain of wheat" incandescent lamps that could only withstand 1.5VDC, and the tiniest of fractions of voltages above or below that value would see them burnt right out. Typically in direct proportion to how easy they would be to remove to replace.
You are of course, right Captain Mac. I still have a couple of grain of wheat lamps lurking around. Regards, Charlie
Fascinating modelling here! Thank you. Eric.
You’re most welcome Eric.
Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for another informative video 👍
You’re most welcome, Jeff. Regards, Charlie.
I liked this project. Very effective lighting. Thanks for sharing Charlie. Roy.
Thanks Roy, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie
Des Australia
Thanks Des, it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie
Don't have a layout anymore but I can listen to Charlie all night 🙂
That’s very kind of you to say so, Rob. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, thank you for this amazing tutorial! I know it has been out there for a while but I'm glad it found me. Better light than never. Pun intended! ☺☺☺ The light truly adds something extra special to your diorama. 💡
Thanks PFC, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Charlie you're a mine of information , great show mate
Thanks John, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
Warm white doesn't mean gaslight like they were when you were a youngster 🤣
I'm not having a go, because I remember as a kid the street next to mine still had a cobbled road and gaslighting.
But yes, I'm in your camp, unless you're trying to model fluorescent or more modern lights, warm is the go.
I even paint some LEDs with Tamiya clear orange to warm them even more.
Those strip lights look like a nice piece of kit. Cheers!
I do have some of that paint as well, I shall give it a go. Regards, Charlie
Great as usual..you are a real live wire Charlie....stay positive lol
Great comment David, you’ve brightened up my day. Regards, Charlie
Very impressive results, well done
Thank you ew. Regards Charlie
"I'm just going to put some lights in there..." - famous last words. That said I'm still on the hunt for n-scale working (simulated) fluorescent tubes to light my tunnels... Great video as always!
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting, and hopefully you can find some in your scale. Regards, Charlie
I agree totally I put most of my business with a local train store
Good choice Kriso. Regards Charlie’s
Methinks West Hill Wagon Works needs to run their text through a spell-checker... "reccomended" indeed!!!
Oh, I missed that one! Regards, Charlie
Awesome Video Charlie
Thanks Christopher, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
For super glue, I recommend Loctite SuperBond Original.. Expensive but excellent..
Great glue for small parts with quick set off. 😉 No need for additional materials with warnings about health..
That Loctite can glue and hold, even, car parking sensor in place.. 😂 Tested one time, because, don't have another glue at home.. Still holding.. You just need to hold it for 30 seconds to set.. But I, usually, hold it longer, if heavy part needs to be glued..
Thanks, Arthur, superglue choice is not an easy one to make. Regards, Charlie
You made light work of that! (Sorry, couldn't resist!) Great video!
Don’t tell me Gavin it lightened your day! Regards, Charlie
Thanks Charlie, lighting adds so much to a layout it is well worth the time and expense. With regard to the activator I use the pump pack version rather than the aerosol. Most of the time I won’t spray it at all but open the bottle and use either a pipette or cocktail stick to apply it to the part as only a very small amount is required. Not only safer but less costly 🙂.
Thanks again for your videos they are always up there with the very best on RUclips.
Thanks Nigel, and thanks for the sound advice regarding the pipette. Regards, Charlie
Just watched you first video. Quite remarkable. I see why you have had so much success over the years.
It’s certainly been a journey Bob.
Regards Charlie
Another cracking video Charlie. Some really useful advice as far as what adhesive to use and how to use it without 'bonding' a tad too much to the layout. I have to agree that the warm glow LEDs look much better for the sort of period layout that I intend to build when I slither out of the planning phase. Many years ago some boiled sweet lollipop stalks were hollow plastic tubes that would have been useful for small cable trunking but those went decades ago so I'll do some digging on what else is available online. Once again many thanks for sharing.
Thanks Anthony, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. I have some covers for those cables and I will show them the future video. Regards, Charlie
I'm looking at those yellowish white leds for my 1/400 airport's runway lights! Thank you Charlie! 👍
That’s an interesting option. Regards, Charlie.
On light source quantity, the 1:1 landscape architects have taught me that odd numbers of things are more pleasing to the eye. This somewhat contradicts what I was taught as a lighting designer, though (the real world is wacky that way).
The warm white colors are going to be more prototypical for layouts set before the last twenty years or so. As anyone going out at night will notice an entire range of light colors in use.
To my knowledge, no one (yet) is offering a model solution for the peculiar amber hue of Low-Pressure Sodium lamps, which so many places use for "Dark Skies" compliance.
Yes, keeping the colour temperature realistic is always a challenge. Regards, Charlie
great job, thanks for teaching us
I’m so pleased that you found it. Interesting RD. Regards, Charlie.
Hello Charlie, a nice bit light entertainment on a Friday evening. Thank-you.
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
That looks the treat I might get some for a project I am working on
I must confess, I was well impressed. Regards, Charlie
Miniature and sub-miniature LEDs are available in bulk from a number of outlets. Grain of wheat bulbs are also still readily available, however from a cost point of view, they vastly outweigh LEDs, generally a iK resistor is sufficient. If you are conversant with amodicum of electronic knowledge, then this maybe the way forward. Note, too, that LEDs are also available in bar arrays. Charlie's system is of course an option, but in the world of electronics, there are many other ways to achieve lighting.
Thanks mate for an interesting comment. However, grain of wheat are very last year! Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie. Awesome stuff. I use superglue activator regularly at work. It absolutely does not dawdle. "Superquick" indeed.
I’m certainly a convert.
Regards Charlie
Lord & Butler is a great little shop. And only about 1/2 hrs drive for me. Always really helpful and friendly as well. Always worth a visit and rummage through the 2nd hand stuff :D
And they provide a cup of tea on a Friday! Regards, Charlie
The project turned out nicely. For those modelers in the USA, I've used Model Train Technology products for lighting/animation and they are quite good. 1 controller handling up to 64 lights with adjustable brightness and effects, e.g. blinking or fading.
Thanks DHG. There are many ways to skin this lighting cat! Regards, Charlie
2 is even not odd Charlie. 3 is odd Charlie. 😂
Many thanks for the sound advice. Nick! Regards, Charlie
great video Charlie always something interesting
Glad you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
Love it Charlie, more like this please 👍
Stay tuned Alan, there’s more to come. Regards, Charlie
Put the wire into a plastistruct tubing. And paint them with silver paint and a bit of rust.
I have some trunking ready to go Bob.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, well done, an excellent tutorial.
Thanks Barry, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
nice one charlie ,derek
Thanks Derek, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards, Charlie
Great tip with yhe glue.
I always use something pointy normally on small stuff.
Don't get glue everywhere then.
For super glue though I'd recommend CT1.
You can get it at toolstation with their activator it's around 10 quid but it's one of the better on the market and you don't get the white bits from the activator
Thanks for the info Richard, much appreciated. Regards, Charlie
looking super good i wish i was that smart do that to
Rest assured mate, it’s only practice. Regards, Charlie
The subject on the top of my agenda so perfectly timed and extremely useful.
That’s great news Neil, I’m so pleased that you found it suitable.
Regards Charlie
Nice little project Charlie, really does make the fuelling point stand out .
Thanks Lee, I did work out rather well. Regards, Charlie
With Fluorescent lighting they usually hang from chains each end. It might be cool to use one wire from each light (1+ and 1 -) and hang with them. Then hook the other too poles together. Then add the resistor under the board. It will potentially cut the LED output by half but the resistor can be changed to set luminosity. A gutter along the rear roof line and down-pipes for the wires. Nice video.
You make an excellent suggestion Steve. Regards, Charlie.
Still definitely my most favoured model railway RUclipsr, Charlie. Thanks again for all your updates and entertainment.
Charlie has a fabulous delivery, doesn't he? He has a way of drawing the viewer in.
@@dickygeemusic Most definitely. I really look forward to his videos. Highlight of my week along with mpeterll
Settle down guys, it’s not real life. Regards, Charlie
Nifty is the word Charlie, good job 👍
Thanks Martin, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Another enthralling video Charlie; and your nimble dexterity is to be applauded when working on such delicate components.
Thanks David, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards Charlie
very nice again! I might have a tip for you that resembles those old tube lights even more: filament leds! Those are the leds in those new type bulbs where you can see those filaments in them. You could just buy those and sacrifice the bulb but they are sold seperate in different lenghts, light temperatures and voltages. If you shop around at the friendly chinese shop we all know, you can have them very cheap by the bundle.
That’s very interesting. Could you send me a link? Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I don't know what happened but it seems my previous message with 2 links seems to be lost in bitheaven, i hope you did see it before it went 'poof'?
Sorry, but RUclips intercepts all links, and put them in the in approval area for me. Only once I approve the number then become visible. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway no need to approve them :) As long as you received them for examples of those leds it is all good. Hope you can do something with them on your layout :)
I would get some scale pipes and make them look like they are in conduit with power boxes at the top and run the conduit down the wall from them to cover the wires.
A great suggestion mate. Regards, Charlie
Thank you Charlie for yet another informative and entertaining video. Greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪.
Thanks Anders, regards Charlie
Hmmm.... Enlightening!.
Hopefully it should brighten your day!
I'm a big fan of Westhill Wagon Works stuff and had some of these before I decided not to light my layout. Having seen how fiddly they are I'm glad, however, they do look good.
Re your superglue activator. I don't know what the chemistry is behind it, but a sprinkle of bicarb of soda sets superglue off instantly. Just don't pile it on because it goes rock hard and you'd need to file it back off again. Cheers
Thanks Davie, great tip. Regards, Charlie
Ive been experimenting with a Western Welsh Atlantean. 372 (aka LR2669 in new money). Fitted LEDs to the inside upper and lower decks, Scalextric pickup on the base and a length of Scalextric track to which the power is delivered as the road in the bus station scenario.
Guessing Warm White would represent the Tilling / BET era bulb lighting whilst Cool White would emulate the NBC era flourescents.
Hi Timothy, that sounds like a sensible choice. Regards, Charlie
what might be a good idea is have another resistor to reduce the brightness even more and have them drop down like suspended lights, if possible that is.
Now that’s a fair suggestion. Regards, Charlie
For example, a potentiometer in series.
Something I picked up from modelers on YT, is that you can puddle CA on paraffin wax tea candles and the CA will not go off.
You can use the candle to heat a suitably round thing to melt a depression in the top of the candle, too.
An interesting suggestion captain Mac. Regards, Charlie
Great video update on lighting up fuel points, Charlie. I think the @westhillwagonworks batten lights are awesome. Have I used them myself and can't fault them. Your tmd is coming together nicely now mate keep up the good work, and I look forward to the next video kind regards Gary.
Thanks Gary, for such a heartwarming comment. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, Another great video. It's amazing how much is available now to add realism to our layouts. The lights certainly bring your engine shed and fuelling point to life. Regards, David.
Glad you enjoyed it David. Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie for another really useful and enjoyable video. I'm looking to replicate the lights you on the large 4 lane depot as I thought it looked very good on your old layout.
Good luck, Simon, there’s lots of decent stuff on the market to choose from. Regards, Charlie
Awesome update Charlie!! Many thanks for sharing this video! Cheers Onno.
Thanks, Onno , regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie thank you for another interesting video. The lights look very realistic. I obviously didn't look hard enough when looking for pseudo florescent lights. I used a strip of LEDs in the roof my engine shed and coated with a fine layer of Grime for a yellower light.
Your videos continue to spark great ideas and is a pleasure to look forward to every couple of weeks.
Take care
David, that’s very kind of you to say so. Take care, regards, Charlie
if they are too bright, paint them over with transparent yellow, you can do the same thing with LED headlights, if they are too bright.
Thanks VR, I might just give that a go. Regards, Charlie
Another great 👍🏻 video l wouldn’t expect anything else as your videos are an inspiration for all us railway modellers l think that adding lights to our layouts brings depth and realism to give us a sense of achievement love the Bachmann diesel refuelling depot can’t wait for the next swift episode take care
Kev swift Beighton Parkway Sheffield
Thanks Kev, that’s very kind of you to say so. Regards, Charlie
great stuff. cant wait to see it finished. 👍
You and me both! Regards Charlie
Great job Charlie, those battons look really good, I've used cotton bud stems in the past with blue tack and a mini dimmer switch
Now that’s a good idea John. Regards, Charlie
Charlie, During your presentation, you mentioned brightness, even with the lovely warm white LEDs. You may be interested to know that another modeller, (propably known to you), often mentions using Tamiya Acrylic Orange, washed over, to 'dilute' brightness and give the impression of aged incandescent lighting. Quite subtle and rather striking. Hope this is of interest. P.
Thanks Paul, and I agree, EJ, does make some great suggestions. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie
Love it.
Each fortnight different and usually unpredictable.
I just love how things have progressed from the 60s.
DCC , sounds, and leds make it all so authentic.
Sometimes I wish I was younger to see what was next but
Then I would have missed some of the best train spotting days
With the change from steam to diesel.
Spiffing !!
Stay safe.
Howard
Thanks Howard, for such a heartwarming comment. Regards, Charlie
Great and interesting video. I’m using the woodland scenics ‘just plug’ lights around my layout (expensive)(and yet to be installed) Really need to up my game when it comes to electrics I’m quite the ‘Noob’!! And could save my self a lot of money and give myself a lot more choice!!
Great video as always 👌
Yes, you’re dead right, it can be an expensive hobby but there are bargains to be had. Regards, Charlie
Lighting is on my to do list. Will have a good watch of this when back from hols 👌 spent the day at a steam railway today so got my train hit 👍
Nothing like the real thing.
Regards Charlie
Tidy job Charlie .
Thanks your lordship, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Are you going to GETS?
Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes Charlie. All weekend. Should be fun weekend
To tone down the brightness of the led you could, like I do, a bit of brown/beige paint, this works great.
Thanks, 707, sound advice indeed. Regards, Charlie
@chlcoldwaterhotspringslitt707, great suggestion, I use the Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange, it works really well.
You could also increase the resistor value, so less current is flowing trough the LED's
Great job ,Charlie.
Thanks, Bob, regards, Charlie
Tiky Tack tackie HEE HEE!!🥰
Thanks Daniel, regards, Charlie
Lighting makes such a difference to any layout helps make the scene. I wonder could you make one flicker like it was failing, because you always used to see that.
Yes, you can make it flicker, but I think it will drive you mad. Regards, Charlie
For anyone watching and wanting dimmer lights, consider adding a potentiometer (aka variable resistor) in series to the LED lights.
I will mention it in a future video. Regards, Charlie
thanks for this video useful info once again
Glad it was helpful John. regards, Charlie
Thank you. A bit down the road timewise from where I am, but something to consider while I create buildings etc in parallel with tracklaying etc.
Thanks Mike, but don’t forget your cable runs, plan them early. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie great video mate unfortunate I àm in Antrln hsoàt the moment mate
Give it time, Clive, give it time. Regards, Charlie
Hi Charlie, I think those lights look really good and create just the right atmosphere. Would the whole yard have been lit as well?
You made it look so easy to do as well ......... have you unstuck all your fingers yet😅😅
Great video, well done, have a great weekend!!
Hi David, yes, the whole yard will be lit and then the brightness adjusted accordingly. Regards, Charlie
That is really good they are fantastic lights thank you for sharing
Thanks Michael, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
what about putting some guttering across the back and where the wires comes down put the half pipe as down pipes ,great update as ive just started lighting my layout didnt quit know how to start thanks for your help .
You make an excellent suggestion Paul. Good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
In areas where I will be more than a few LEDs, I use a buck board to drop my 12v bus line to 3v and create a local 3v bus to supply the LEDs.
Yes, that’s a sensible alternative. I will probably have both of 3 V and a 12 V bus for lighting.
Can you tell me why your ID is so unusual? Regards, Charlie
Using a pipette for the activator is sometimes much better than the spray
That’s an interesting option,
regards Charlie
Hi Charlie 🙂
Nice little project that. Very clever wee design on those lights and I think they do look highly effective. Once it's all boxed in it will even better. Nice idea adding the pillar for the old Knightwing kit as once painted it will blend in perfectly 😎
As for the brightness, one thing I immediately thought of was this paint used Richard off Everard Junction has used to great effect. I think it is by Tamiya and you just paint it directly onto and LED to tone the light down. It seems to work really well 😃
Cheers Charlie, have a great weekend mate 👍🍻🍀
Thanks Tim, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting. Regards Charlie
H i Charlie. Lots of details of mini lights on these buildings you make this project of my interest. As for your BACHMANN loco building this model i havent seen it in USA that much except on another video. You have to order them by request. I am trying to seek one identical to yours. I to love your occasional comedy with the tools. 😁 Meanwhile excellent work Charlie.
Harold
CNRR etc..
Thanks Harold, it’s great to have you on board. Regards Charlie
Great as always Charlie. I’ve fiddled around with lights on my layout. Used led’s but not strip ones. To get mine from cool white to warm, I just added a spot of yellow paint. Worked well
I’m almost embarrassed to admit that I’ve never done that. Regards, Charlie
Indvidual LED's in a properly designed housing are great. The other option is what is called COB (chip on board) strips, which look more like a solid light than individual leds on a strip. COB's are a bit diffused also. LED's are available in so many colours these days, Warm white, cool white, natural white, and all range of colours. They have become a really versatile lighting option.
I think it is worth cutting off the moulded fake lights, just to make it look neater. The lights on the back look like something that would not be out of place on a fueling shed of that age. You could even remove the dummy lights without any touch up paint, makes it look like the lighting was upgraded at some point in its life.
You make an excellent point. Many thanks, regards, Charlie
Street lighting with gas lamps was nice when we were kids eh ???
Sorry Rob, I’m far too young!
Regards, Charlie
"Stop all leave"... always a navy guy..🙂
Thanks “me hearty!”
Regards, Charlie
good vin nice work on layout thanks lee
Thanks Lee, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
You can Just put a extra resistor on the leads to take down the brightness one just before you connect the 12 volts
That’s my plan M6576. Regards Charlie
I wonder if it makes a difference if you wouldn’t glue the diffuser. The glue obviously isn’t required for the thing to stay put.
One interesting tidbit about CA glue; it goes of in reaction to moisture. I.e. You don’t need an expensive accelerator. The moisture in your breath should suffice (especially directly after a sip from a cuppa). An alternative is to moisten the surfaces you’re going to put the glue on.
It’s interesting that you should mention that. Someone mentioned yesterday about a dab of tapwater. Regards, Charlie
I have an angle poise light with a magnifying glass in the middle. It helps with the tiny things.
A worth while asset Richard. Regards, Charlie
They look great Charlie. I have a Love/Hate relationship with superglue. Sometimes it just never works, unless it's your fingers, then it works every time, lol.
I couldn’t agree, more Scott rails, it’s dreadful stuff. Regards, Charlie
Another enjoyable video Charlie. Too late for my layout, but food for thought for all those in the early stages of planning. Certainly some good pieces of kit out there and I have purchased a few bits from West Hill and they are very very good quality. Always look forward to your videos, most entertaining. Cheers Kevin
Thanks Kevin, I’m so pleased that you found the video interesting albeit a little late for you. Regards, Charlie
Great video, there is another product you can checkout, they are called LED filament lights. They are available in different lengths, and would would look just like florescent lights. You would need a little more technical knowledge (calculating the resistor) to use.
I thought of those too, and I think they could be a really good solution. However, there could also be some difficulties. As far as I know they can’t be cut to length, so you’re stuck with what you can buy. Also, when /not/ lit up, they are bright yellow and quite chunky, so I’m not sure if they’d pass for a bare fluorescent tube. I’d be really interested to know if anyone has had success with them.
Great info gentleman. Let’s see if anyone else has anything further to add. Regards Charlie.
Dear Charlie, some cool strip light appendages made by Westhill Wagon Works. Wonder though if in this case fiber optic lights would have been a better choice. Don’t know for sure, think I saw a vid from Steve Muskoka on this very subject a while ago.
Anyhow, the prewired leds are of course handy. However, to mount these lights it may be more appropriate to go the other way round. So, drill a hole for the led instead of the resistor. Nevertheless, a very cool product and great explanation from yourself.
Oh, and instead of activator, you could try a tiny pinch of baking soda on the superglue. Cheerio
Thanks Vincent, is the baking soda, in powder or liquid form? Regards Charlie
Honest opinion, it looks great, personally i think the lights are still a bit bright, but everyones taste is different
You might be right Tez. Regards Charlie
if leds are too bright you want to control them with PWM, not lowering the voltage
for the use of the super glue activator spray, I recommend using this outside wearing a full face respirator mask (3M 6000 or similar), the version that includes eye protection
That’s something I need to read up on AJ.
Regards Charlie
Charlie, another great video. I know there are 2 camps, to light, or not to light. I firmly believe that lights do "brighten" a layout (sorry, coundn't resist), and give some great effects for night running, if your layout area allows.
Getting the lights to be prototypical, and not agricultural is a big challenge. These battens from WestHill look great, pity the postage to Australia far out weights the value of the product, oh well. Maybe an Australian reseller will come along.
Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting Michael. However, yes it is disappointing that the postage is so expensive. Regards, Charlie