This. I had a Focus which had a busted thermostat housing and was dumping coolant out as fast as I could put it in. But I watched the temp gauge like a hawk, and with the first sight of a temp warning I pulled over every time. Thermostat housing was replaced, engine ran perfectly fine after that.
I can't believe there are idiots among us that drive with it overheating thinking it won't be a bad thing. That's why they call them dummy lights. 🙄🤦♂
That damned Y-pipe in the heater circuit started leaking on my 2013 T$C. I replaced it with a Dorman aluminum part before the engine was destroyed. When Dorman is higher quality than a factory part...ouch!
A few years back I also had a 2013 T&C and that same heater hose connector leaked on mine, as well. It wasn't leaking nearly as bad as the one in this video, but enough to notice the coolant was low again every few days.
Doorman makes an aluminum oil filter\cooler housing for these stellantis engines too instead of factory plastic one that's a known defect on these things too. I think they're stepping up their game a bit, which is good - it's about time. It's sad that the aftermarket co.'s like Doorman has to fix so many engineer-created, manufacturers problem. 🤔🤦🏻♂️👍🏻👌🏻
Yes and 3 or four years down the track when you do it takes 10 or 15 minutes to get at them. Usual you are doing other stuff in there at a more major service as well.
Back in the 80s a friend of mine overheated my '65 Pontiac to death, the radiator failed, lost its water and the engine overheated until it stopped. Replaced it with a used motor.
I hope the customer realizes that they turned a $100 repair into a multi thousand dollar one by trying to get where they were going instead of immediately stopping. Just stop when there's a problem, and avoid the big repair!
When you are driving and see steam under the hood or at least the temp starts rising pull over and shut it off.don't try to get to the next exit and find a good parking spot.engine damage could have been avoided I think.
Had a friend do the same thing. Engine overheating, and they were worried about getting to a McDonald’s or somewhere so they could get something to eat while waiting on the tow truck. Engine blew up. 😂
Regarding who’s at fault, sometimes when coolant leaves the party, the temp sensor is no longer sitting in liquid and sometimes you can get low false readings and be unaware the block is heating up. Something I’ve seen before so thought I’ve throw my 2 pence worth in.
Procedure for diagnosing a Chrysler: 1) Open hood. 2) Pull pin from grenade 3)toss grenade into engine bay 4) close hood and run. Guaranteed to solve all Chrysler problems. There can't be an engine problem if the engine is not there anymore. 👍
If people would learn to quit running engines when they start to overheat and especially when they see steam, would stop a lot of the problems. Ray saw the steam coming out, saw the water near the back hose, yet kept the engine running while drowning it with water. He just made the problem worse. They towed it in for a reason. And yes, I think Ray is a really good and honest mechanic, but sometimes good mechanics get in a hurry and don’t think it through.
@@shakerman55 Gotta find the problem some how. If the owner already drove it overheated, damage was already done prior, Ray is just trying to find the problem. If there isn't enough fluid in system, you'd never find that leak, simple common sense right there.
Step 1 of diag is VERIFY THE CUSTOMERS COMPLAINT/CONCERN. As soon as he verified the customer’s complaint/concern he found the problem and shut the engine off. Ray did nothing wrong. More than likely, the customer drove it longer and harder than he should have. None of this is said in defense of Chrysler/Fiat at all lol but in defense of the diagnostic process alone and in turn, Ray. Not at all Chrysler/Fiat lol FTR
I saved my engine!!! Same leak. Replaced part for $80. Pay attention to your temp gauge!!! This could have been avoided. My pentastar has 214k on it and still running! No pentastar tick either. I must have got one of the “good” ones😅
They are not horrible engine. Just too many pastic parts. As long as people do what you did, pay attention, and stay on top of things, they can last for a while. The 6 Speed transmission was the weakest link on certain years.
My wife has good hearing, she noticed the engine ticking so we brought it in. Fortunately it hadn't eaten the cam up yet so we were safe. It still cost me a bit of money in parts and labor, it could have been a lot worse.
Which makes me wonder why that part wasn't replaced alongside with the thermostat housing, as the failed thermostat housing was probably the root cause of the damaged part, and it was a known issue.
Have the 3.5 V6 in our Journey. Had a thermostat fail 'closed' while on the highway. Overheated and cracked the Y pipe off the heater core to the rear HVAC. Snapped it clean apart. Replaced all the parts, and tossed in a waterpump and timing belt (it was overdue). All that work and it overheated within minutes with a stuck 'stat. I pulled off the road within seconds of hearing the 'chime' warning and shut it down. That's the only thing that saved it.
I had a very similar issue. thermostat locked closed and the lower radiator hose literally popped off the rad. I was towing a trailer from Fort Polk back to San Diego when i retired from the Army back in 2019. I made it to El Paso. TX and AAA towed my jeep to the shop but they couldn't take my trailer. Thankfully US Army WTF Moments helped link me up with a soldier with a big-ass truck to pull the trailer to a hotel my wife got as she was driving our van. Thankfully the engine survived until i was able to replace my jeep 3 years later when i got the dreaded lifter tick.
People don't drive anymore. If the engine starts and the vehicle moves, it's good to go run a muck and break every driving law. Few people know the vehicle has a gauge cluster, that's why the fuel tank is always on empty.
@@brianpiper3188 That's why modern ECU's should just shut the engine off if Bad News (tm) happens to the engine, and BEFORE the conditions where serious damage occurs to it. Even a giant red triangle with "PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY" on the dash because their engine is about to blow up won't cause drivers to pull over.
I had a car early on that seemed to have one coolant leak or another. I became very paranoid of the smell of engine coolant, even when I was in traffic and it turned out it was another car. Always expect the worst with coolant leaks! Pull over at first sign of a leak! Save your engine!
There are times I've smell a fuel leak. I've never found one and never had it when alone. Always with traffic around. Still better to be on top of it then wait for the boom.
Driver blew it up. Slap the aluminum oil cooler and heater hoses on, change your oil like you should, and you'll get half a million miles out of a 3.6. We've retired several grand caravans from our pilot car fleet with 500-600k+
Heater core hose could have blown out after the head gasket went and cylinder pressures got into the coolant circuit. This means there could be another root cause for the engine failure. Best check and make sure after rebuild that the engine cooling is functioning properly and prevent a repeat because the root cause was not remediated.
I had to replace the plastic y connectors with aluminum y connectors (Dorman in this case For the Win) when I had my 2014 Caravan. Chrysler's Bean Counters were getting cheap on certain parts with Coolant flowing through plastic.
Super glad to be here again to take care of the people I love. Thank you Ray, just barely making it these days and I'm scared to death to go to the hospital. Ty brother and be well !
What surprises me is that some engines are known to give a lot of trouble (and expensive ones), yet people still keep buying them. I prefer to pay more, but in exchange I want something to last years.
@@mikecumbo7531 If so many people keep complaining about a particular engine, that is pretty clear. Whatever the type of vehicle and brand, would you be willing to pay potentially thousands more in repairs?
19 yr old bmw 525i w/ N52 in-line 6. Lower coolant line connects to block with a - you guessed it - plastic flange. Gotta change out that flange before it melts or disintegrates. Learned about it watching a video like this.
I am on the 4th set of heater hoses on my 2010. I have the 3.8 liter though. Finally have a set that has a metal Y. I don't know how anyone misses the cloud of steam and coolant stench. Just keep your favorite tow guy in your phone.
Chrysler has used that plastic Y pipe for ever, I’ve replaced a lot of them over the years. Yes a few had blown head gaskets and/or warped/cracked heads. “Plastic makes the world a better place!”….
This is my favorite kind of auto repair. Step by step diagnostics with clear direction and judgement as to which problem to deal with first. Fixing that hose leak would have been tempting but in the end your focus on the most serious sign kept the bill low and came to the same conclusion.
Same thing happened to my 2012. The 'y' on the heater hose split and spewed coolant everywhere. Luckily I caught it in time and replaced the hoses with a metal 'y'. Almost 200k on my van now!
I work in IT, so I would firstly recommend turning the car off and then on again and if that doesn't work, I would suggest a software update. That should solve the issue.
@@billyounger9713 Or in this case, you turn the key while simultaneously holding the turn signal switch in the right position, lowering the front passenger window, and powering the radio on.
The "Y" connectors get spongey and brittle. They can blow out so quick the coolant is gone before you can react. I had a replacement last less than 200 miles. There are 4 of these on this engine. My parts stores did not have the metal replacements. Blew out multiple times.
"They can blow out so quick the coolant is gone before you can react." Nonsense. You only need enough warning to get off the road and turn off the engine. No coolant won't destroy an engine instantly; there is always reaction time. This driver ignored the issue and kept driving.
A connector similar to this broke on my G37. Went through and replaced everything back there with Aluminum. It should be a DOT mandate to use proper materials.
A couple of other possible scenarios: 1. The head gasket failed, over pressurizing the coolant system causing the fitting to fail. 2. A squirrel or other rodent gnawed on that part causing a weak spot which failed when the cooling system got up to its normal pressure. Either way, this vehicle was doomed from the day it came off the assembly line since it's a Chrysler product.
I over heated my old convertible (the most complex and expensive thermostat structure was responsible - $400 and aftermarket as factory had terrible design flaws - 2.7 Chrysler) and they told me I did things perfectly as no damage but most people misunderstand how quickly overheating will destroy the motor and keep driving.
Almost the same thing happened to my 3.8L V6. It had a head gasket leak that just got really bad and started putting oil and coolant mix into the intake through the PCV valve, and the EGR valve. I did try to fix it previously with some sealants, but they never worked.
You mentioned a couple videos ago considering getting a new scantool. I knew someone who loved his XTool. Free updates for three years, bidirectional control enabled. I used it to program the immobilizer keys on my 2004 Nissan Maxima.
My personal car is an Australian dodge journey 2015. Same motor but only front wheel drive. 101024km on it, sorry I don't do freedom units. I have been a helicopter parent to it and it has never missed a beat. Mind you I did have to do the entire oil filter/cooler unit and I do not enjoy having to take off so much top end to get to it
This is also front wheel drive unless I missed something? On the AWD versions they still have the transverse mounted engine and are still primarily fwd
I had a run of bad fuel pressure regulators on GM engines back in the early 2000's. These were the ones on the fuel rail, controlled by vacuum diaphrams. I believe they used a rubber that wasn't ethanol resistant, but GM wouldn't admit responsibility. It took a couple of years before they released an updated design to fix the issue. Anyway, I had one customer with a Chevy Beretta with the Quad 4 come in on a flatbed because it hydro locked from fuel blowing through the regulator, up through the vacuum line and into the intake, down into the number 2 or 3 cylinder. Fortunately, it didn't cause any damage to the engine, since it wasn't running when the cylinder filled up. I pulled the spark plugs and spun the engine with the stater, which shot a jet of fuel against the bottom of the hood and deflected forward onto the wall, nearly hitting my wife. That could have turned out really bad, had there been a flame anywhere within 20 feet. I replaced the regulator, squirted a dab of oil in each cylinder, and it fired right up. Another customer with an Impala that went through multiple regulators until the updated part was released. They would last 13 months, just 1 month longer than the warranty. Thankfully, my auto parts store was able to warranty the failed regulator after the second failure. I believe it was the third failure when the new design was available, and I never had an issue after that one. However, my customers' son decided to slide the car sideways at a high rate of speed and turn it into the flying DeLorean in Back to the Future II. I had never seen a car with all 4 wheels bent over. I have pics of it. The customer decided not to fix it because it would have cost more than the car was worth. Also, along with his car, I had 3 Impalas in one season with bad blower motors/resistors. One of those customers had replaced the resistor twice, not knowing that the blower motor was causing the resistor failures. Always replace both as a pair. The resistors almost always fail because of a bad motor. If you lose one or more speed, having only off and high, the motor is bad (requiring too much current to turn, which burns up the resistor). The resistor is cooled by the airflow from the fan, so a slow spinning/ high Amp draw destroys them. It happens to us all at some point (unless you only keep vehicles for a couple years at a time). Certain things on cars should be done as pairs, like headlight bulbs, shocks, anything brake related (pads, calipers, rotors), and blower motors/ resistors! I've got 40 years of automotive repair under my belt. I've never charged for anything I've never fixed, charged the lessor of book or actually labor time, and even went to my customer's homes/work to pick up/drop off their vehicles. As an example, I had a customer with a Cadillac SRX with the V6 that had a bad timing chain tensioner. I replaced all three tensioners, chains, pensioners, guides, and gears. The book time was 19 hours! At dealer prices, the labor alone would have been over $2k, but my labor rate was only $50/hr at that time (working from home). He was retired and he clearly wasn't wealthy, having bought it used and it being his first Caddy. The parts were listed for $1,500, but through AZ were about $500. I agreed to do the job for $500, or 10 hours of labor. From start to finish, I was able to do the job done in 10 hours (with no corners cut). I have many stories like this, and some stories of shady dealer's shops. Maybe I should start a channel? Lol
The last Chrysler product I owned was a “75 Dodge Maxivan B2500 w/ 360 V-8 . A great motor for me . Drove it 8 years sold it to my Partner , ( he love it ), he drove it 9 years . Motor still strong , the body was disappearing , we live in the rust belt . Stay safe , have fun .
I'm a 20th century Chrysler fan. I owned a 70 Plymouth Satellite wagon w/318, its one car I still wish I had despite the rust. I've owned some 21 century Chrysler products including 2013 Caravan w/3.6. It's a good car if it wasn't for the engine, brakes, and fuel pump relay that requires you to replace an expensive circuit board to fix.
I guess an evaluate on it being worth keeping that machine going - I like the dash shifter - maybe awkward in practice to use. Maybe it is a "trade as is" they will fix or replace the motor "in house" or it goes to become parts basically. Such a common motor - maybe there will be another video on it if the owner decides the best way forward is to keep 'er on the road' in some manner - if the body is in good shape still perhaps.
The key lesson is, boys and girls, if your engine starts overheating, shut it down. I wonder how long the owner drove the car with the temp gauge pegged.
The child of a friend of mine drove his car with no coolant all the way home because she was frightened to call him and have him say, park it and I will send the tow truck. Instead the engine was ruined and also the intense heat damaged to transmission.
I just lost that exact van (accident) a couple of weeks ago, but I replaced that part *four* times in the 13 years I owned the car, finally finding the aluminum part on eBay after the third time (and the fourth time it happened when I was out of town, so I had to locate the part in the middle of nowhere taking care not to overheat the engine). Apparently at some point between the third and fourth times they finally started making an aftermarket part out of aluminum and as luck would have it it was in stock in the middle of nowhere and I was able to replace it with that. But IMO Chrysler should replace this engine. There's no way I believe the engineers somehow "didn't know" making a critical component in a high temperature application out of plastic was the wrong move. It's too bad the driver here wasn't paying more attention to the temperature gauge and let it overheat to the point it shut down. :(
"It's too bad the driver here wasn't paying more attention" is EXACTLY why it's NOT Chrysler's fault. Do I like that automakers have been using plastic parts in vehicle cooling systems for 30 years now? NO. The first time I replaced one was on a 90s Buick that belonged to a fellow student in college, a girl who didn't know anything about cars, but when steam happened and the temperature gauge went up, she knew to stop and call for help. I replaced the broken plastic part with a steel one, and she drove it for a long time after that. People have to use their brain. There is no design so foolproof that an inattentive driver can't ruin it.
when looking into #4, wiggle the engine to see little waves of coolant, and if the reflection moves! Works a treat when I'm checking if the Berrymans B12 is getting past oil clogged scraper rings of my 1ZZ or not!
If that were my car, I wouldn't even consider repairing that engine as there's really no way to know if the lower end was damaged from hydro-locking without fixing the upper end first. That engine got real angry when you put coolant back in it. A good, used engine is the only repair I'd consider.
We had a 2006 T&C that nearly overheated. Cooling fans quit working and the stealership had them in stock. Turns out they were known to fail so the dealerships keep the fans in stock. Won't ever get another Chrysler vehicle.
My main concern is, clearly it was having an issue, no doubt the temperature gauge went to the moon, but they kept on driving until it shut off… if they’d stopped at the first sign of overheating they could have saved the engine and just fixed with a new hose and some coolant. People should do better
I noticed that there is a temperature gauge on this car unlike some manufacturers that seem to be deleting them, so the owner should have noticed that the temperature was rising you would think and stop driving. Also I wonder if the head gasket went before the plastic hose? Maybe???
I had 1998 town country with 3.8 v6 and that motor was strong.had over 190,000 miles on it. I should have kept it used it for trade in for durmax truck
People before committing criticism towards the owners please see the update on this vehicle. It belongs to a a family with a ton of kids and the mother has cancer. Ray and @I_Do_Cars are collaborating to get this thing running again for this family.
My favorite question is the genius that made the decision not to require a transmission dipstick to check the level and condition of the " lifetime oil. "
And thats excatly why you stop immediatly if your car/engine has a major problem. They might have gotten away with just replacing that hose and adding new coolant
I have a dodge dakota with a 3.6 misfiring on 4. Temps fine though. I think it may be injector. Already replaced/moved coils and plugs. Ran cleaner through the gas. Checked compression and all cylinders are within spec. A little low on spec bit still spec and all in same range as each other. So i beleive its injector. Just dont wanna tear it all apart to replace it. So much work for such a simple task.
Another engine killed because of a cheap plastic part. Just happened to me last Saturday on the expressway with a Mazda CX7. Plastic water outlet on the cylinder head ruptured. Massive steam cloud and every warning light came on. Drove a half mile to get into a parking lot. Towed 40 miles home. Just replaced that stupid part and at least for now engine seems fine. Keeping fingers crossed. Thing is that part is a known high failure piece but they used it for 11 years.
@@edifyguy Didn't lose all the coolant immediately. Also this was the Garden State Parkway which controls who tows, where and when. You have no choice as to any of this. Engine is fine, repaired myself and a 40 mile tow cost me $50. Would have been screwed royally had I left it there.
At about 4:30 I was thinking that a potential coolant leak might be "a problem", but not necessarily "the problem". Then going to about 19:30 after seeing liquid on the piston and about 20:30 seeing liquid near the cylinder wall realizing that was the problem and, as far as the engine was concerned, "it's dead, Jim"
The 3.6s expecially the earlier ones where prone to headgasket falure to begin with but typically was on cyl 2 from what i had seen. And very surprised it did have the penta star tick or the destroyed oil cooler.
the engine is fine just put a head and head gasket in it they have extended coverage till 156xxx on that cylinder head through Chrysler ,probably out due to year but i do head and gasket jobs on those all the time and its fine easy job the codes are due to it over heating and oil getting hot and thinning out slap a cylinder head and gasket on it change the oil and fix the y pipe , clear the codes and ship it
A couple of years ago, there was a video of a 3.6 Pentastar engine teardown that died because of failure in the timing chain and tensioners. It otherwise was in remarkable shape, considering it had 626,000 miles on it. The owner maintained it and changed the oil every 8,000 miles, using only Valvoline or Mobil1 lubricants. I think the owner of the Chrysler minivan probably destroyed the engine by continuing to drive despite all the warning lights going off. The 'drive it til it quits' rarely works out.
I hate to be stereotypical, but female drivers (a minivan's usual) tend to ignore them, and not always because they're oblivious, but often because they're frightened, and don't want to be stopped in a place where they'll feel unsafe, so they want to push ahead and get somewhere safe. That's understandable, but it usually ends with stopping somewhere less safe than what they could have planned if they'd heeded the warnings, and expensive, major damage. I've seen it firsthand with my mom when I was a kid.
Since cylinder 4 was the only code listed for a misfire, I would at least pull the head and check its condition. Since the vehicle started and ran, the owner may get lucky and only need a head gasket or replacement head.
On my own van, I'd try this. On someone else's, NO. It's not a repair I could stand behind. It might last a decade, or a day. Too many things got too hot.
Seems like a good overhaul project, unless owner wants an entire new engine installed, now days, we've become a throw away society, would be typical for a new install. Auto manufacturers make critical parts out of plastic because they want "us" the consumer to bring it in to a dealership, they don't like "mom and pop" mechanic shops to fix "their" product, it's been this way for a very long time now. I guess that's why many of the top brand names aren't selling as many vehicles these past few yrs, reliability and quality has really gone downhill. Great video as always, cheers :) P.S. For some odd reason, I can just "smell" that coolant odor from here, been there, done that and fixed it. :)
Dorman makes hoses that have metal elbows. Chrysler is the king of ticking time bombs. They wan't it to fail. Bad thing is is Benz learned how to be "cost effective" from Chrysler. I just did a front head on one of these. Parts are not too bad. If you use the timing tool set. You can get the head swapped over quickly. It took me about 8 hours from tear down to re-start the engine. With the current miles on the van. I would recommend Trans flush/filter, Oil cooler replaced with metal, heater hoses with metal Y joints. Plugs, coils, valve cover gaskets, and PCV valve. If you fix the engine with without the trans service. The trans will probably fail before 200k. The filter plugs up and burns out the trans. The torque converter can cause a lot of debris in the trans. It is not because of a bad converter. It is mostly just converter wear. I think this is a great engine. But value engineering keeps it from being a off the showroom bulletproof motor/trans.
Steam is forever trying to escape. This time it killed the engine. Pretty obvious by the smell and coolant gone. Probably warped the cylinder head back there too. It would be interesting to see the fix if the customer wants the car back on the road.
I had something similar happen to me not so long back with the coolant pissing out, at first I thought it was the garage who didn't top it up when I asked for a regular service, so I started topping it up by myself, bleeding it etc, and I still had the problem, turns out to state what I just stated above, that it was a coolant leak ._.
We had one of these things, and that clock always annoyed me. The fact that the climate control system was designed not to work right annoyed me more though.
I find it real hard to believe the owner would not be able to smell this occurring. These trash plastic coolant Y's they use these days I've seen take out a couple Ecoboost v6s too.
Yo Ray, before swapping out the engine, you should do a little lesson on how to do a compression test with a compression test kit, as well as tell us some information about the engine. We all know there's some damage to.the engine, but the engine itself might not be bad. Only Cylinder #4 is causing problems. If you do a compression test on all cylinders, it could be saving the customer thousands of dollars. Like I said, the engine MIGHT be done for, but replacing the engine because Cylinder #4 has a crack? I would at least love for you to do a compression test, see what every cylinder says about its health
That critical part being made from plastic instead of aluminum was the company cutting costs on their end but not on the owner
This is what happens when you got liberals tryna think plastic is more fuel efficient than aluminum 😂😂😂
It probably has to do with reduced weight, not cost.
It is designed to last the extent of the powertrain warranty....
@@RukarioEnterprisesLLC How's that weather in Russia this afternoon Sergei? Is it "snowing" Ukrainian drones yet?
If only Chrysler had been taken over by a Japanese company.
This is why you don't ignore that temperature warning or the smell of burning coolant.
Or the steam that's probably pretty obvious by then.
This. I had a Focus which had a busted thermostat housing and was dumping coolant out as fast as I could put it in. But I watched the temp gauge like a hawk, and with the first sight of a temp warning I pulled over every time. Thermostat housing was replaced, engine ran perfectly fine after that.
I can't believe there are idiots among us that drive with it overheating thinking it won't be a bad thing. That's why they call them dummy lights. 🙄🤦♂
That damned Y-pipe in the heater circuit started leaking on my 2013 T$C. I replaced it with a Dorman aluminum part before the engine was destroyed. When Dorman is higher quality than a factory part...ouch!
Ray has a video of a dorman condenser for a GM product that far exceeded the OEM . Kind of a pet peive issue with Ray that goes back many years!!
Dorman has actually improved over the past 2-3 years. Better than Chinesium parts anyway
A few years back I also had a 2013 T&C and that same heater hose connector leaked on mine, as well. It wasn't leaking nearly as bad as the one in this video, but enough to notice the coolant was low again every few days.
Doorman makes an aluminum oil filter\cooler housing for these stellantis engines too instead of factory plastic one that's a known defect on these things too. I think they're stepping up their game a bit, which is good - it's about time. It's sad that the aftermarket co.'s like Doorman has to fix so many engineer-created, manufacturers problem. 🤔🤦🏻♂️👍🏻👌🏻
The Dorman was likely a third of the price of a factory plastic part too.
Not enough people are talking about how the intake manifold must be removed to change spark plugs. The designer would have been shot in the 60s.
In the 60s they didn't have spark plugs that lasted 100,000km so you needed to have easy access then.
This is a common design on nearly all modern engines, not just the 3.6.
@@givemespace2742 100k km or not, you still need to change them eventually.
Yes and 3 or four years down the track when you do it takes 10 or 15 minutes to get at them. Usual you are doing other stuff in there at a more major service as well.
Just one of many problems with the 3.6…..and we’re not even talking about Chrysler-fiat problems/issues. The plastic oil cooler housing left the chat.
My heart sunk realizing that engine was gone. I know how that customer felt hearing the news. Had it 3 times in my life.
Why do you keep buying domestics?
@@greggc.touftree5936 he never said what cars he have bought before
Back in the 80s a friend of mine overheated my '65 Pontiac to death, the radiator failed, lost its water and the engine overheated until it stopped. Replaced it with a used motor.
I hope the customer realizes that they turned a $100 repair into a multi thousand dollar one by trying to get where they were going instead of immediately stopping. Just stop when there's a problem, and avoid the big repair!
@@edifyguy probably didn't even know temp Gadge want read hot if it empty's the coolent that fast
When you are driving and see steam under the hood or at least the temp starts rising pull over and shut it off.don't try to get to the next exit and find a good parking spot.engine damage could have been avoided I think.
Yeah, everyone is blaming the shitty engine for what happened but ultimately the driver is the one to blame.
Had a friend do the same thing. Engine overheating, and they were worried about getting to a McDonald’s or somewhere so they could get something to eat while waiting on the tow truck. Engine blew up. 😂
Expensive mcdonalds. @@shakerman55
Regarding who’s at fault, sometimes when coolant leaves the party, the temp sensor is no longer sitting in liquid and sometimes you can get low false readings and be unaware the block is heating up. Something I’ve seen before so thought I’ve throw my 2 pence worth in.
Who cares ? Manufacturer must fit beeper if oil pressure drop and over heating. But who cares. 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Procedure for diagnosing a Chrysler:
1) Open hood.
2) Pull pin from grenade
3)toss grenade into engine bay
4) close hood and run.
Guaranteed to solve all Chrysler problems. There can't be an engine problem if the engine is not there anymore. 👍
If people would learn to quit running engines when they start to overheat and especially when they see steam, would stop a lot of the problems. Ray saw the steam coming out, saw the water near the back hose, yet kept the engine running while drowning it with water. He just made the problem worse. They towed it in for a reason.
And yes, I think Ray is a really good and honest mechanic, but sometimes good mechanics get in a hurry and don’t think it through.
@@shakerman55 Gotta find the problem some how. If the owner already drove it overheated, damage was already done prior, Ray is just trying to find the problem. If there isn't enough fluid in system, you'd never find that leak, simple common sense right there.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Sad that that happened, too bad for that motor
Step 1 of diag is VERIFY THE CUSTOMERS COMPLAINT/CONCERN. As soon as he verified the customer’s complaint/concern he found the problem and shut the engine off. Ray did nothing wrong. More than likely, the customer drove it longer and harder than he should have.
None of this is said in defense of Chrysler/Fiat at all lol but in defense of the diagnostic process alone and in turn, Ray. Not at all Chrysler/Fiat lol FTR
I saved my engine!!! Same leak. Replaced part for $80. Pay attention to your temp gauge!!! This could have been avoided. My pentastar has 214k on it and still running! No pentastar tick either. I must have got one of the “good” ones😅
They are not horrible engine. Just too many pastic parts. As long as people do what you did, pay attention, and stay on top of things, they can last for a while. The 6 Speed transmission was the weakest link on certain years.
These engines are in soooo many taxis and ram commuter vans. They easily last 400k miles before getting retired
My wife has good hearing, she noticed the engine ticking so we brought it in. Fortunately it hadn't eaten the cam up yet so we were safe. It still cost me a bit of money in parts and labor, it could have been a lot worse.
Which makes me wonder why that part wasn't replaced alongside with the thermostat housing, as the failed thermostat housing was probably the root cause of the damaged part, and it was a known issue.
People like you are probably why they don't put a temp gauge, and you have to wait for the to bad light to come on.
Have the 3.5 V6 in our Journey. Had a thermostat fail 'closed' while on the highway. Overheated and cracked the Y pipe off the heater core to the rear HVAC. Snapped it clean apart.
Replaced all the parts, and tossed in a waterpump and timing belt (it was overdue). All that work and it overheated within minutes with a stuck 'stat.
I pulled off the road within seconds of hearing the 'chime' warning and shut it down. That's the only thing that saved it.
But that's what will save it, almost every time. That's what this owner didn't do.
I like those new thermostats that fail open. Sure you have to replace them if you over heat, but better that than the engine under it.
I had a very similar issue. thermostat locked closed and the lower radiator hose literally popped off the rad. I was towing a trailer from Fort Polk back to San Diego when i retired from the Army back in 2019. I made it to El Paso. TX and AAA towed my jeep to the shop but they couldn't take my trailer. Thankfully US Army WTF Moments helped link me up with a soldier with a big-ass truck to pull the trailer to a hotel my wife got as she was driving our van. Thankfully the engine survived until i was able to replace my jeep 3 years later when i got the dreaded lifter tick.
Plastic for the win! I’m surprised that they didn’t notice the temperature gauge pegged hard over.
People don't drive anymore. If the engine starts and the vehicle moves, it's good to go run a muck and break every driving law. Few people know the vehicle has a gauge cluster, that's why the fuel tank is always on empty.
@@brianpiper3188 That's why modern ECU's should just shut the engine off if Bad News (tm) happens to the engine, and BEFORE the conditions where serious damage occurs to it. Even a giant red triangle with "PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY" on the dash because their engine is about to blow up won't cause drivers to pull over.
Did you watch the video? Apparently not.
I had a car early on that seemed to have one coolant leak or another. I became very paranoid of the smell of engine coolant, even when I was in traffic and it turned out it was another car. Always expect the worst with coolant leaks! Pull over at first sign of a leak! Save your engine!
There are times I've smell a fuel leak. I've never found one and never had it when alone. Always with traffic around. Still better to be on top of it then wait for the boom.
Driver blew it up. Slap the aluminum oil cooler and heater hoses on, change your oil like you should, and you'll get half a million miles out of a 3.6. We've retired several grand caravans from our pilot car fleet with 500-600k+
“Piece of Stelantis” is perfect. At least they keep you in business. Seems like you’ve got a lot of bad engines lately.
What a piece of stellantis lol 😂
Except that Fiat did not buy Chrysler until 2014. Mercedes would have engineered a 2011 car.
@@DickDastardlyOOO Fiat took ownership of 50% of Chrysler LLC in 2009 as a part of the bailout. Daimler sold off Chrysler in 2007.
@@silicon212 maybe so, however it was still a design from when Mercedes had control, and made in the US. Fiat design input would have been zero.
My dog leaves piles of Stellantis in the back yard.
Heater core hose could have blown out after the head gasket went and cylinder pressures got into the coolant circuit. This means there could be another root cause for the engine failure. Best check and make sure after rebuild that the engine cooling is functioning properly and prevent a repeat because the root cause was not remediated.
Good morning Ray, I’m very pleased to be here too.
I had to replace the plastic y connectors with aluminum y connectors (Dorman in this case For the Win) when I had my 2014 Caravan. Chrysler's Bean Counters were getting cheap on certain parts with Coolant flowing through plastic.
Super glad to be here again to take care of the people I love. Thank you Ray, just barely making it these days and I'm scared to death to go to the hospital. Ty brother and be well !
What surprises me is that some engines are known to give a lot of trouble (and expensive ones), yet people still keep buying them. I prefer to pay more, but in exchange I want something to last years.
Hope you show us how to save this engine, if we choose to do it. 😊
It lasted over 150k miles. That’s pretty good for a domestic front drive.
The problem is that unless you or someone in your family keeps up on cars and car issues how do you know?
@@mikecumbo7531 If so many people keep complaining about a particular engine, that is pretty clear. Whatever the type of vehicle and brand, would you be willing to pay potentially thousands more in repairs?
19 yr old bmw 525i w/ N52 in-line 6. Lower coolant line connects to block with a - you guessed it - plastic flange. Gotta change out that flange before it melts or disintegrates. Learned about it watching a video like this.
I am on the 4th set of heater hoses on my 2010. I have the 3.8 liter though. Finally have a set that has a metal Y. I don't know how anyone misses the cloud of steam and coolant stench. Just keep your favorite tow guy in your phone.
Chrysler has used that plastic Y pipe for ever, I’ve replaced a lot of them over the years. Yes a few had blown head gaskets and/or warped/cracked heads. “Plastic makes the world a better place!”….
This is my favorite kind of auto repair. Step by step diagnostics with clear direction and judgement as to which problem to deal with first. Fixing that hose leak would have been tempting but in the end your focus on the most serious sign kept the bill low and came to the same conclusion.
Classic quote suggestion - "She's dead Jim.". Star Trek.
Needs a red shroud of sorts. 😂
@@TXDeathInvestigator Pity it wasn't painted red like the car next to it.
Same thing happened to my 2012. The 'y' on the heater hose split and spewed coolant everywhere. Luckily I caught it in time and replaced the hoses with a metal 'y'. Almost 200k on my van now!
At least, the Air Filter looks new!
Lol
I work in IT, so I would firstly recommend turning the car off and then on again and if that doesn't work, I would suggest a software update.
That should solve the issue.
Just press control/ alt /delete for a reboot!!😊
Clearing the cookies out from between the seats should help too.
@@billyounger9713 Or in this case, you turn the key while simultaneously holding the turn signal switch in the right position, lowering the front passenger window, and powering the radio on.
The "Y" connectors get spongey and brittle. They can blow out so quick the coolant is gone before you can react. I had a replacement last less than 200 miles. There are 4 of these on this engine. My parts stores did not have the metal replacements. Blew out multiple times.
"They can blow out so quick the coolant is gone before you can react." Nonsense. You only need enough warning to get off the road and turn off the engine. No coolant won't destroy an engine instantly; there is always reaction time. This driver ignored the issue and kept driving.
Se if a machine shop would be able to make a metal copy of that Y connector.
A connector similar to this broke on my G37. Went through and replaced everything back there with Aluminum. It should be a DOT mandate to use proper materials.
A couple of other possible scenarios: 1. The head gasket failed, over pressurizing the coolant system causing the fitting to fail. 2. A squirrel or other rodent gnawed on that part causing a weak spot which failed when the cooling system got up to its normal pressure. Either way, this vehicle was doomed from the day it came off the assembly line since it's a Chrysler product.
I over heated my old convertible (the most complex and expensive thermostat structure was responsible - $400 and aftermarket as factory had terrible design flaws - 2.7 Chrysler) and they told me I did things perfectly as no damage but most people misunderstand how quickly overheating will destroy the motor and keep driving.
Was towed in, sat in the lot for who knows how long and the temp gauge is still on point. Yer done.
Chrysler is the Chrysler of Chrysler
I used to sell them a couple decades ago. How they still have market share is amazing to me.
They no longer sell their marque in the UK.
Almost the same thing happened to my 3.8L V6. It had a head gasket leak that just got really bad and started putting oil and coolant mix into the intake through the PCV valve, and the EGR valve. I did try to fix it previously with some sealants, but they never worked.
You mentioned a couple videos ago considering getting a new scantool. I knew someone who loved his XTool. Free updates for three years, bidirectional control enabled. I used it to program the immobilizer keys on my 2004 Nissan Maxima.
I miss the telephone ringing. How about bringing it back for a cameo appearance?
Miss the phone too but the wife unit is a total upgrade😎
How about the clocking in machine doo dey doo hehe
Oh yes!! I miss it as well. I loved it when ray emulated the sound!!!
Tirdlydirtlydooo!
Wife Unit played a sample of it on her cell phone a few episodes ago. He wasn't happy about it.
My personal car is an Australian dodge journey 2015. Same motor but only front wheel drive. 101024km on it, sorry I don't do freedom units. I have been a helicopter parent to it and it has never missed a beat. Mind you I did have to do the entire oil filter/cooler unit and I do not enjoy having to take off so much top end to get to it
This is also front wheel drive unless I missed something?
On the AWD versions they still have the transverse mounted engine and are still primarily fwd
I had a run of bad fuel pressure regulators on GM engines back in the early 2000's. These were the ones on the fuel rail, controlled by vacuum diaphrams. I believe they used a rubber that wasn't ethanol resistant, but GM wouldn't admit responsibility. It took a couple of years before they released an updated design to fix the issue.
Anyway, I had one customer with a Chevy Beretta with the Quad 4 come in on a flatbed because it hydro locked from fuel blowing through the regulator, up through the vacuum line and into the intake, down into the number 2 or 3 cylinder. Fortunately, it didn't cause any damage to the engine, since it wasn't running when the cylinder filled up. I pulled the spark plugs and spun the engine with the stater, which shot a jet of fuel against the bottom of the hood and deflected forward onto the wall, nearly hitting my wife. That could have turned out really bad, had there been a flame anywhere within 20 feet.
I replaced the regulator, squirted a dab of oil in each cylinder, and it fired right up.
Another customer with an Impala that went through multiple regulators until the updated part was released. They would last 13 months, just 1 month longer than the warranty. Thankfully, my auto parts store was able to warranty the failed regulator after the second failure. I believe it was the third failure when the new design was available, and I never had an issue after that one. However, my customers' son decided to slide the car sideways at a high rate of speed and turn it into the flying DeLorean in Back to the Future II. I had never seen a car with all 4 wheels bent over. I have pics of it. The customer decided not to fix it because it would have cost more than the car was worth.
Also, along with his car, I had 3 Impalas in one season with bad blower motors/resistors. One of those customers had replaced the resistor twice, not knowing that the blower motor was causing the resistor failures. Always replace both as a pair. The resistors almost always fail because of a bad motor. If you lose one or more speed, having only off and high, the motor is bad (requiring too much current to turn, which burns up the resistor). The resistor is cooled by the airflow from the fan, so a slow spinning/ high Amp draw destroys them. It happens to us all at some point (unless you only keep vehicles for a couple years at a time).
Certain things on cars should be done as pairs, like headlight bulbs, shocks, anything brake related (pads, calipers, rotors), and blower motors/ resistors!
I've got 40 years of automotive repair under my belt. I've never charged for anything I've never fixed, charged the lessor of book or actually labor time, and even went to my customer's homes/work to pick up/drop off their vehicles. As an example, I had a customer with a Cadillac SRX with the V6 that had a bad timing chain tensioner. I replaced all three tensioners, chains, pensioners, guides, and gears. The book time was 19 hours! At dealer prices, the labor alone would have been over $2k, but my labor rate was only $50/hr at that time (working from home). He was retired and he clearly wasn't wealthy, having bought it used and it being his first Caddy. The parts were listed for $1,500, but through AZ were about $500. I agreed to do the job for $500, or 10 hours of labor. From start to finish, I was able to do the job done in 10 hours (with no corners cut).
I have many stories like this, and some stories of shady dealer's shops. Maybe I should start a channel? Lol
Nice book.
That plastic Y is a common failure point on those engines. Sad when this could have been easily avoided. Good diag Ray.
The last Chrysler product I owned was a “75 Dodge Maxivan B2500 w/ 360 V-8 . A great motor for me . Drove it 8 years sold it to my Partner , ( he love it ), he drove it 9 years . Motor still strong , the body was disappearing , we live in the rust belt . Stay safe , have fun .
I'm a 20th century Chrysler fan. I owned a 70 Plymouth Satellite wagon w/318, its one car I still wish I had despite the rust. I've owned some 21 century Chrysler products including 2013 Caravan w/3.6. It's a good car if it wasn't for the engine, brakes, and fuel pump relay that requires you to replace an expensive circuit board to fix.
@@rivjoy had a couple 318's as well they were one of the good ones. just kept running.
The penstar motor. Its channeling the PT cruiser.
I guess an evaluate on it being worth keeping that machine going - I like the dash shifter - maybe awkward in practice to use. Maybe it is a "trade as is" they will fix or replace the motor "in house" or it goes to become parts basically. Such a common motor - maybe there will be another video on it if the owner decides the best way forward is to keep 'er on the road' in some manner - if the body is in good shape still perhaps.
The key lesson is, boys and girls, if your engine starts overheating, shut it down. I wonder how long the owner drove the car with the temp gauge pegged.
The child of a friend of mine drove his car with no coolant all the way home because she was frightened to call him and have him say, park it and I will send the tow truck.
Instead the engine was ruined and also the intense heat damaged to transmission.
max speed of less than 50mph when they shut it down. it was hot enough to start seizing
I just lost that exact van (accident) a couple of weeks ago, but I replaced that part *four* times in the 13 years I owned the car, finally finding the aluminum part on eBay after the third time (and the fourth time it happened when I was out of town, so I had to locate the part in the middle of nowhere taking care not to overheat the engine). Apparently at some point between the third and fourth times they finally started making an aftermarket part out of aluminum and as luck would have it it was in stock in the middle of nowhere and I was able to replace it with that. But IMO Chrysler should replace this engine. There's no way I believe the engineers somehow "didn't know" making a critical component in a high temperature application out of plastic was the wrong move. It's too bad the driver here wasn't paying more attention to the temperature gauge and let it overheat to the point it shut down. :(
"It's too bad the driver here wasn't paying more attention" is EXACTLY why it's NOT Chrysler's fault. Do I like that automakers have been using plastic parts in vehicle cooling systems for 30 years now? NO. The first time I replaced one was on a 90s Buick that belonged to a fellow student in college, a girl who didn't know anything about cars, but when steam happened and the temperature gauge went up, she knew to stop and call for help. I replaced the broken plastic part with a steel one, and she drove it for a long time after that. People have to use their brain. There is no design so foolproof that an inattentive driver can't ruin it.
Ford does the coolant-Y in plastic on the truck diesel 6.0L. I changed mine to a Dorman aluminum replacement to help avoid the possible coolant dump.
when looking into #4, wiggle the engine to see little waves of coolant, and if the reflection moves! Works a treat when I'm checking if the Berrymans B12 is getting past oil clogged scraper rings of my 1ZZ or not!
Ray, put a small piece of blue towel on the tip of the endoscope. The paper will, of course, absorb any liquid.
Ray I'm glad that you are feeling better these days.
Good day to you too. Hope you are having a great day
Tough call thanks for sharing
I would recommend a total replacement as it overheated badly. Other parts of the engine have no doubt received damage.
Welcome back, Ray.
I do love the analytical videos.
The pentastar engine…😩
Hey the temp gauge is hi should I stop driving...... no no worries its going to be fine 😂😂😂😅
If that were my car, I wouldn't even consider repairing that engine as there's really no way to know if the lower end was damaged from hydro-locking without fixing the upper end first. That engine got real angry when you put coolant back in it. A good, used engine is the only repair I'd consider.
We had a 2006 T&C that nearly overheated. Cooling fans quit working and the stealership had them in stock. Turns out they were known to fail so the dealerships keep the fans in stock. Won't ever get another Chrysler vehicle.
Thats about it for a Chrysler vehicle !!
Greetings from the European Florida, or Portugal, as some may say!
European Florida…
Isn’t that Gibraltar?
Otherwise it must be Corsica.
🤣
I can say the aftermarket heater hose assembly for that is aluminum
My main concern is, clearly it was having an issue, no doubt the temperature gauge went to the moon, but they kept on driving until it shut off… if they’d stopped at the first sign of overheating they could have saved the engine and just fixed with a new hose and some coolant. People should do better
I noticed that there is a temperature gauge on this car unlike some manufacturers that seem to be deleting them, so the owner should have noticed that the temperature was rising you would think and stop driving. Also I wonder if the head gasket went before the plastic hose? Maybe???
Guys remember most these companies are only wanting ur money and not ur Appreciation
I had 1998 town country with 3.8 v6 and that motor was strong.had over 190,000 miles on it. I should have kept it used it for trade in for durmax truck
owner doesn't look at temp gauge , yup once overheated and headgasket/ cracked head done for.
People before committing criticism towards the owners please see the update on this vehicle. It belongs to a a family with a ton of kids and the mother has cancer. Ray and @I_Do_Cars are collaborating to get this thing running again for this family.
My favorite question is
the genius that made the decision not to require a transmission dipstick to check the level and condition of the " lifetime oil. "
Even Toyota does that bullshit now
And thats excatly why you stop immediatly if your car/engine has a major problem. They might have gotten away with just replacing that hose and adding new coolant
I wish I could give this enough likes to get it to the top.
Thanks Ray
Dorman makes an aluminum replacement for that failure prone plastic coolant pipe. It's called OE Fix
Toyota makes a replacement for that failure prone engine and vehicle. It's called Sienna.
My 07 5.3 has the same type of plastic fitting on the heater hose. I think the fittings are pretty common.
They are, but hating on Chrysler seems to be a popular pastime in this comment section. The first one I replaced was on a 90s Buick, quite awhile ago.
I have a dodge dakota with a 3.6 misfiring on 4. Temps fine though. I think it may be injector. Already replaced/moved coils and plugs. Ran cleaner through the gas. Checked compression and all cylinders are within spec. A little low on spec bit still spec and all in same range as each other. So i beleive its injector. Just dont wanna tear it all apart to replace it. So much work for such a simple task.
Listen to the Injector with really long screwdriver. Chris Fix has a tutorial in his channel
I have had that part fail on 2 of my own cars in the last 10 years.. the replacement part is aluminum.
Gearbox never seems to makeup its own mind when I rented one of these
Another engine killed because of a cheap plastic part. Just happened to me last Saturday on the expressway with a Mazda CX7. Plastic water outlet on the cylinder head ruptured. Massive steam cloud and every warning light came on. Drove a half mile to get into a parking lot. Towed 40 miles home. Just replaced that stupid part and at least for now engine seems fine. Keeping fingers crossed. Thing is that part is a known high failure piece but they used it for 11 years.
"Drove a half mile to get into a parking lot." Why? Why would you risk the engine? Just pull off the road and tow from there.
@@edifyguy Didn't lose all the coolant immediately. Also this was the Garden State Parkway which controls who tows, where and when. You have no choice as to any of this. Engine is fine, repaired myself and a 40 mile tow cost me $50. Would have been screwed royally had I left it there.
@@patricknesbitt4003 In that case it makes sense. It's nice to know there are sensible people driving cars. :)
Greetings: Typical newer junk. If I cannot see and get 2 all of the spark plugs I refuse 2 work on it. Thx 4 the share.
Hey rey, good afternoon first of all, and you forgot to honk for safety when u backed out the minivan 😂, but keep up with the amazing videos.
I have seen this problem on a really nice dodge ram! One plastic part that caused the truck to be out of service!
At about 4:30 I was thinking that a potential coolant leak might be "a problem", but not necessarily "the problem". Then going to about 19:30 after seeing liquid on the piston and about 20:30 seeing liquid near the cylinder wall realizing that was the problem and, as far as the engine was concerned, "it's dead, Jim"
The 3.6s expecially the earlier ones where prone to headgasket falure to begin with but typically was on cyl 2 from what i had seen. And very surprised it did have the penta star tick or the destroyed oil cooler.
the engine is fine just put a head and head gasket in it they have extended coverage till 156xxx on that cylinder head through Chrysler ,probably out due to year but i do head and gasket jobs on those all the time and its fine easy job the codes are due to it over heating and oil getting hot and thinning out slap a cylinder head and gasket on it change the oil and fix the y pipe , clear the codes and ship it
So important to see coolant leaks fast on those crazy
A couple of years ago, there was a video of a 3.6 Pentastar engine teardown that died because of failure in the timing chain and tensioners. It otherwise was in remarkable shape, considering it had 626,000 miles on it. The owner maintained it and changed the oil every 8,000 miles, using only Valvoline or Mobil1 lubricants. I think the owner of the Chrysler minivan probably destroyed the engine by continuing to drive despite all the warning lights going off. The 'drive it til it quits' rarely works out.
I hate to be stereotypical, but female drivers (a minivan's usual) tend to ignore them, and not always because they're oblivious, but often because they're frightened, and don't want to be stopped in a place where they'll feel unsafe, so they want to push ahead and get somewhere safe. That's understandable, but it usually ends with stopping somewhere less safe than what they could have planned if they'd heeded the warnings, and expensive, major damage. I've seen it firsthand with my mom when I was a kid.
Since cylinder 4 was the only code listed for a misfire, I would at least pull the head and check its condition. Since the vehicle started and ran, the owner may get lucky and only need a head gasket or replacement head.
On my own van, I'd try this. On someone else's, NO. It's not a repair I could stand behind. It might last a decade, or a day. Too many things got too hot.
One good point, the body last longer then the K cars did.
Reliant, not so reliant
Seems like a good overhaul project, unless owner wants an entire new engine installed, now days, we've become a throw away society, would be typical for a new install. Auto manufacturers make critical parts out of plastic because they want "us" the consumer to bring it in to a dealership, they don't like "mom and pop" mechanic shops to fix "their" product, it's been this way for a very long time now. I guess that's why many of the top brand names aren't selling as many vehicles these past few yrs, reliability and quality has really gone downhill. Great video as always, cheers :)
P.S. For some odd reason, I can just "smell" that coolant odor from here, been there, done that and fixed it. :)
Dorman makes hoses that have metal elbows. Chrysler is the king of ticking time bombs. They wan't it to fail. Bad thing is is Benz learned how to be "cost effective" from Chrysler. I just did a front head on one of these. Parts are not too bad. If you use the timing tool set. You can get the head swapped over quickly. It took me about 8 hours from tear down to re-start the engine. With the current miles on the van. I would recommend Trans flush/filter, Oil cooler replaced with metal, heater hoses with metal Y joints. Plugs, coils, valve cover gaskets, and PCV valve. If you fix the engine with without the trans service. The trans will probably fail before 200k. The filter plugs up and burns out the trans. The torque converter can cause a lot of debris in the trans. It is not because of a bad converter. It is mostly just converter wear. I think this is a great engine. But value engineering keeps it from being a off the showroom bulletproof motor/trans.
Nobody pays attention to gauges anymore either. Owners fault...
I think it’s funny how Chrysler puts a Fine Jewel Clock on dash 😂😊😅
Steam is forever trying to escape. This time it killed the engine. Pretty obvious by the smell and coolant gone. Probably warped the cylinder head back there too. It would be interesting to see the fix if the customer wants the car back on the road.
I had something similar happen to me not so long back with the coolant pissing out, at first I thought it was the garage who didn't top it up when I asked for a regular service, so I started topping it up by myself, bleeding it etc, and I still had the problem, turns out to state what I just stated above, that it was a coolant leak ._.
Always nice to see a cheap 1970s alarm clock with a car wrapped around it ...
Omg thats funny!!!!!
We had one of these things, and that clock always annoyed me. The fact that the climate control system was designed not to work right annoyed me more though.
Another car sent to you on EMPTY 😅😅 GOOD MORNING RAY😅
Wow. Stelantis!
BMW makes coolant lines with plastic connectors. They also charge $1K to install a new one when the upper hose breaks. Don't ask how I know that 🙃
Good day Ray and hi to Dave
This adds another definition to Intercooler 😊
Ctysler did the plastic everything 'coz cheap and you'll buy another engine and other broken stuff
Great informative video…. Don’t drive them hot eh
the submarine edition is the most special trim of them all
Good morning Mr Ray hope y'all have a happy Friday 😊
I find it real hard to believe the owner would not be able to smell this occurring.
These trash plastic coolant Y's they use these days I've seen take out a couple Ecoboost v6s too.
Yea it depends. Woman😮
Yo Ray, before swapping out the engine, you should do a little lesson on how to do a compression test with a compression test kit, as well as tell us some information about the engine. We all know there's some damage to.the engine, but the engine itself might not be bad.
Only Cylinder #4 is causing problems. If you do a compression test on all cylinders, it could be saving the customer thousands of dollars. Like I said, the engine MIGHT be done for, but replacing the engine because Cylinder #4 has a crack? I would at least love for you to do a compression test, see what every cylinder says about its health
You planning on running on 3 cylinders and no coolant?