Fixing the Infamous 5.7 Hemi Exhaust Manifold Broken Bolt Tick on my 2017 Ram 1500
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- It was almost inevitable, the 5.7 Hemi in my 2017 Ram 1500 developed the dreaded tick. There's different ticks though, and luckily this wasn't the worst kind. Nope, this was the infamous broken exhaust manifold bolt tick, known by the fact that it's loudest when you first start the engine, and then quieting down and practically going away once your engine is warmed up. Guessing the side is easy enough too by just following the sound. It's also not fatal, I drove for months with this tick before finally getting everything I needed to fix it, which is what this video is all about.
First a disclaimer, I'm not a professional mechanic, just your typical shade tree wanna-be mechanic that figures things out, so things don't always go smoothly. I make mistakes along the way, but that's how I learn, and hopefully by showing it, helps others avoid making those same mistakes. In this vid we start with going over the parts and tools, then gaining access to the exhaust manifold, removing the exhaust manifold, extracting the broken bolt (which is the tricky part), and finally putting it all back together with new parts.
Affiliate Links to items in this vid:
Dorman Passenger Side (Right) Exhaust Manifold Kit (aftermarket) - amzn.to/43nOaDC (see below for OEM option)
Dorman Exhaust Manifold Hardware Kit (one side) (aftermarket) - amzn.to/44ndN8O (see below for OEM option)
Hotshot's Secret Never Rust Lubricant - amzn.to/455saif
Extractor Set - amzn.to/3Oikhjy
LED Work Light Bar - amzn.to/3sqsogV
Mechanix Gloves - amzn.to/3rxmFu7
Hemi Exhaust Manifold Bolt Jig - amzn.to/44JulaT
T-handle Tap Wrench - amzn.to/46Ojz51
Temp gun - amzn.to/3cPnViz
Star Torx Bit Socket set - amzn.to/3lgw7ey
Torque Wrench - amzn.to/3FEXaM2
Fastener and Clip Removal Tool - amzn.to/3A82i5Y
Fastener and Clip Set - amzn.to/3NSz7fj
Metrinch Tool Set - amzn.to/3ni1ZQm
Dewalt Drill - amzn.to/3esuuXM
Race Ramps 56" - amzn.to/2YYOVUF
GoPro 11 - amzn.to/3CA8fv7
OEM Part Numbers Used (I purchased these from eastcoastmoparts.com)
5045486AA Exhaust Manifold, Right Side
5045496AA Exhaust Manifold Gasket, Right Side
04893964AC Exhaust Shield
6510141AA Double Ended Stud, Mounting
6505316AA Hex Flange Lock Nut, Mounting
6509863AA Bolt
Check out my Amazon Storefront for all the stuff I use for towing with my Ram 1500, living the RV life, racing my Challenger and more- www.amazon.com/shop/scavenger...
Great thing about using the above links is that it doesn't cost anything extra but helps me fund this channel through commissions earned. Plus it's so much quicker than searching online!
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
1:29 Parts and Tools
4:40 Removing the Fender Liner
8:02 Removing the Old Exhaust Manifold
16:45 Extracting the Sheared Exhaust Manifold Bolt
30:28 Installing the New Exhaust Manifold with New Bolts
35:50 First start-up after fix
36:57 Final Summary
Social Media:
Instagram - / scavenger1320
Facebook - / scavenger1320
For Business Inquiries and Sponsorships email me at: scavenger1320@gmail.com 
Авто/Мото
“I have no idea what I’m doing”. Finally a video I can relate to
Seems when I say that up front I get fewer troll comments about how I should stick to an office chair lol. But also I’m not trying to pretend I’m a professional. Thanks for watching!
I’m 100% with you @SteakandEggs43! Lol I’ve done a lot of different repairs to my truck but this is one I wasn’t sure I could handle. This video was as good as it gets. Thanks for sharing @Scavenger1320 ! Well done. Maybe I’ll take a shot at it now.
When extracting a bolt, heat can be your best friend. Bust out the fire wrench (torch) and your favorite lube. The heat expands the aluminum and the bolt will back out no problem 99% of the time. Nice job with the video! -Glen
one of the best videos i've seen from a man who doesn't know what he's doing!
I feel by throwing that out there up front I beat the trolls to it and they just turn away lol. Thanks for the comment and watching!
What a great video. I love your "just dive in approach" that alot of us I think can really relate to. Was literally biting my nails at the 18 min mark with the bent bolt. Felt like I was watching a good football game... i.e. whose going to win, you or the bolt. Thanks for posting.
The bolt definiltely took the lead for a while but I chipped away at it and came out on top in the end lol. Thanks for watching and the comment, I appreciate it!
When taking a seized bolt out its best to work it back and forth instead of just going in reverse. Once it gets tight go back tight then back out again. Also spray it with some penetrating oil and tighten it back down to let that oil get in there
You just needed to drill deeper in broken bolt, another easy way is to weld a nut on broken bolt turn right out, you will learn more as you keep going,I have been turning wrenches for 55 years so have done hundreds of broken bolts/ studs good luck keep working on stuff and build your skill set
bro the whole time u had those vise grips on that bolt i was praying for u
Apparently I wasn’t praying enough when I had the vice grips on the bolt 😆
Great Video. You seem like the type of person that would be fun to work on cars with. I love your "figure it out with what you have" attitude.
Thanks! Just figuring it out is basically how I've learned everything I know about cars lol. Plus I figure if the United States government trusted me to fix multi-million dollar aircraft, not to mention the pilots who flew them, then I can handle working on a vehicle where messing up just means the truck doesn't start lol.
I just did this job this last weekend. Freaking nightmare!! Both back bolts on back two cylinders were broken. Custom shorty header install. 😊
At least you shouldn't ever have this problem anymore with the shorties! Plus I'm sure there's at least a little bit of a performance boost.
@@Scavenger1320 seems like a little more pep. Still have a leak. I think at the collector. 🤗
Amazing video! I'm hoping this is the issue for me as well (instead of the other type of ticks). Explained and showed everything clearly. I feel confident that I'll be able to do this on my own instead of taking it to a shop!
Biggest tell-tale sign is if the tick gets quieter or goes away after it’s warmed up. The really bad kind of tick will pretty much sound the same all the time. Good luck with it and thanks for watching, and let me know how it goes.
Tick has been constant, which I know isn't a good sign. But with any luck (like you had) after taking off the wheel and liner I should be able to see if a leak is the issue. Will keep you posted in the coming days!
@@katw1084wassup buddy how did it go having this problem on my 13 ram
Great workshop Chris! Can't wait until you get back out to the dragstrip!
Thanks! Can't wait until I get back out too, but looks like that's going to be Holley MoParty in September. I still have a few things to do on my car to get ready though so there'll be some more Challenger vids coming in the meantime.
@@Scavenger1320 Excellent 👍
Great job Chris, I chuckled when you mentioned your Dads tools from Chrysler.
My Dad was an electrician and retired from Trenton Engine in the 90's
Nice, my dad was a Pipefitter at the Warren stamping plant from the 70s until he retired in 95. The toolbox you see in the vid is custom made and from what I was told used steel from the plant to make, and it is HEAVY lol. One day I'll get to sorting through all the tools in it. There's some antique looking wrenches in there.
We'll have to meet up at Milan sometime in the future!!😀
@@dominicb6464 for sure, it'll just have to wait until next year. I was trying to make it up there again for MSHS/Woodward, but with other races I have planned, and hopefully the 392 direct connection kits coming out soon (rumor has it they'll be announced/released sometime around roadkill nights), I couldn't make a Detroit trip happen.
We'll definitely keep it in mind for next year!
Thanks for that video , very helpful I had exactly the same problem with my 2015 ram and took care of it
Glad I could help! thanks for watching!
Thank you for this camera angle
Thanks for watching!
Awesome job! Thanks for the tutorial
Thanks for watching!
Awesome! 2016 Dodge Van. Same exact sound.
Hope this helped then. Thanks for watching and good luck with fixing it!
Well done Bud!!
Great video and job sir
Thank you!
nice work and great video! i was ASE certified earlier in life and just did this on my 2013 hemi. Chose to machine flat the oem manifold, local shop did it for $125 here in
Bay Area. Hopefully the theory that metal gone thru many heat cycles is less likely to warp again! i'll see.
I would agree with that theory and thanks for sharing your cost to do that. Had a few people here comment about it being cheaper to take to a machine shop to do that but I honestly didn't know what something like that would cost and no one ever mentioned a cost in their comment before. Not a whole lot cheaper than what you can get a new manifold for but the theory of using the original already heat-cycled manifold makes sense. Thanks for watching!
thanks so much for sharing, the star bit is a good idea
Nice job Chris!
Thanks!
Great vid! Very detailed. Will be my second time doing mine in 50,000kms. You had the easy side :) Driver is a pain, that is the one leaking for me again now
Thats what I hear about the drivers side. If I had to tackle this on the harder side I'd probably just swap both sides with a set of shorty headers to never have this issue again.
@@Scavenger1320 I have a new set of BD Diesel upgraded manifold KIT to be installed today! 75k mile warranty. Uses spacers on the bolts, thicker , different casting, machined flat surfaces. Shorties suck
@@TJTodd604 Haven't heard of those before but just checked them out. Price isn't too far off from oem either. I like how they list the install time as exactly 2 Hours and 18 minutes lol. Great option though if you want to basically keep a stock setup. I've put shorties on my older Rams and liked them, plus I had them dyno'd to show the increased performance. Of course that was on the older 318/360 and not a Hemi. I'm just not a fan of this 'log' style manifold.
Good job, considering that you were winging it. And you showed people one method how to do that job on a low budget, and with limited experience, Except for the new exhaust manifolds. I would have got the old ones resurfaced at a machine shop. They tend to warp from all the heat cycles.
When it comes time to deal with broken exhaust manifold bolts on my Ram, I'm going to buy an exhaust manifold bolt jig. The one made by Snapklik, which is mentioned in the video is $124.98 USD. And I'll use black oxide drill bits, because they are made to drill into harder steel, such as the manifold bolts.
Good job Mr lucky
Good job!! Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Great video, I am thinking about going with shorty headers since they are around the same price as one single side stock manifold. Also I would have been lathering the new bolts up with anti-seize to make sure they are easier coming out the next time. Just in case! Mine has been leaking for 6 years now and I am still putting this job off!
If I didn't want to keep this truck 100% stock and plan on trading it in soon, I'd have just done a shorty header swap at the same time too. Thanks for watching!
Great video! My truck is a 2012 RAM 1500 with 134,000 just getting prepared in case mine break.
Thanks! It's a good thing to know about before it happens, then at least you won't freak out when it does, thinking it might be the bad lifter tick lol. At least that's what happened with me, but I was also in the middle of a road trip towing an RV a thousand miles away from home when it happened.
Love it. I might buy a 5.7 Ram 1500 this year. This problem and lifter tick scare me. This is something I could probably do.
This exhaust tick is more annoying than anything, it doesn’t really hurt anything like the lifter tick. This truck is still going strong for me though. 2017 with over 135K miles on it now with a lot of hard use, towing and idling. I’ve been getting an oil analysis done with each oil change too and the engine wear has been exactly where it should be and is looking great.
Buy a toyota instead Ram Jeep
buy BD Diesel manifolds. Proven to be the best option for the hemi tick, specifically designed to be better than the OE by 10 folds absolutely amazing and good price
@@AlMai222 someone else commented about those too. Didn’t hear about them when I did this job but looked into them after that comment and definitely looks like what Ram should have done to begin with. If I still have this truck when it happens again I’ll definitely get those.
What torque spec did you torque the bolts to? Your torque wrench only goes up to 200 in pounds
Nice job
Will be ordering parts and attempting this 😁
Good luck! Hope this vid helps
Thanks for your video, I wished you fixed mine
I have this issue now, after your vid… i think I can do it. We’ll see how it goes!
Great video
thanks!
Thanks for your video, I wished you fixed mine, good 👍 work man 34:30
thanks for watching
Oh yeah… I’ve gotta 2017 Ram… the manifold bolts broke about 2 years ago on the passenger side and now they are broken again on the passenger side… I probably need to replace the manifold… my guess it’s warped… thanks for the video buddy…
That’s why I decided to just buy a new manifold at the same time, so hopefully it’ll go another 100k miles before it shears another bolt. Thanks for watching
I love your video !! Its detailed, and really benefited from it for visualization purposes, which helped enormously !!
I ended up turning my steering wheel left to right, giving me more space to work
Thank you so much for sharing ! 💯
I didn't even think about turning my wheel! Great tip! And thanks for watching and the comment. I try to be as detailed as I can and show as much as I can even though I know it can make some of my videos drag on a bit. I've gone to youtube a bunch myself and find too many how-to videos that skip over parts that I needed to see. Also I usually screw something up for lack of knowing any better so I figure why not let other people see it so that they don't make the same mistakes lol.
Great job
Thanks!
Just found this vid, and it's the exact noise and issue I am having. Thanks to the vid, I have no doubt I'll be able to save money taking care of it myself instead of dropping it of at the dealership. 1 question though, my noise goes away once warmed up, that a good sign........
Definitely a good sign and is exactly what mine was doing. As the metals heat up they expand and seal off the exhaust leak. The bad tick is the one that doesn’t go away.
So the only issue I can state after watching this video, and completing the work on my own truck.
1. RAMs with airbag suspensions......way less room to work with! Darn thing takes up most of the space you need to get the 4 middle bolts.
2. I'm not 100% sure about the torque wrench, so I gave it an ugga dugga until I can get with someone that knows how to use one in a few days. 216 in lbs (or 18 ft lbs) I didn't want to run the risk of damaging an aluminum block and costing me an extreme amount of money.
3. Broken bolts that are on the bottom, not so easy to drill and tap. If possible, weld a few beads on there and add a nut. Way simpler that way, THANK GOD for neighbors with welders!
Otherwise, as I said before, great video!!!!!@@Scavenger1320
@@MC-px9eq Thanks for the update and extra info. I didn't even think about Rams with airbag suspensions. I would have loved to do the welding trick, but I don't have a welder, or would even know how to use one if I did lol. Maybe one day I'll have enough time to learn at least some basic welding. I actually do have a neighbor with a welder too, but I'm not that good at asking people for help, something I need to work on lol.
Well done I'm having same issues right now my jeep been in the shop for 4 days smh 🤦
Wow, 4 days?? Guessing the shop must be backlogged with work or ran into a worse issue. Hopefully it's not the latter and you get your jeep back soon
I just passed 50,000 miles and Im going to have to do this. Right side
Sucks it happened so early. Good luck with it!
Makes me Want to do mine But drilling the bolt out makes me Leary Great video We shall see
Yeah, that was the same thing holding me back too, and part of the reason why it took me so long after the tick started to finally go ahead and fix it. In the end I just told myself that if I was trusted enough to fix and maintain multi-million dollar military aircraft in the Air Force, then working on a 20 thousand dollar truck shouldn't be a big deal. Thanks for watching and good luck if you decide to tackle the job yourself.
When you're taking out a bolt like that, you need to continue to spray it with penetrating oil and work the bolt back and forth.
Hi Chris, I watched your excellent video. Congrats on a job well done. However, I'm not clear exactly what caused the broken bolt in the first place. Thank you. Jim from Durand.
It's because the exhaust manifold, being this horrible log shape, eventually starts to warp from the excessive heat, which starts pulling on the bolt until it snaps. It's almost always one of the rear bolts because that part of the manifold is getting hit with exhaust gases from all 4 cylinders so that's the section that gets the hottest and starts warping.
Oh. Thank you. I think our 392 engines have headers so hopefully won't happen to them. Hopefully you can make Detroit in 2024. Looking forward to your next video.
@jameshamann7525 definitely not an issue on 392s, and really only an issue on the Rams. From what I've seen the 5.7 in Challengers/Chargers have a different and better exhaust manifold design.
Careful with the small bits, if you snap one off in the bolt it will be considerably harder to get out
Guess I had enough things go wrong the universe spared me that one lol. Good point though. It wasn’t until after I did this job that I found out they make a set of bits specifically for this use which should be stronger and less likely to snap. If I need to do something like this again I’ll definitely be buying it
I think the reason that bolt breaks is because the heat from all 4 cylinders meets in that spot. I am thinking about getting an aftermarket header pipe that goes from 4 to 2 and then into one pipe.
Yeah, that's pretty much the accepted causing issue. That's one reason some people say to just put a set of shorty headers on. There's also another company that a couple people commented about here that makes a similar oem style manifold but they've redesigned the bolt holes and fasteners in a way that it's still a direct replacement but is supposed to keep this issue from happening again. BD Diesel is who makes that manifold kit.
I have 2 sheered flush on the drivers side.. I wish I had that much room over there haha. Gonna have to weld a nut on mine to get it out
good luck with it!
I have a 2014 dodge ram 2500 5.7 that might have this issue. It only ticks on cold start and lasts for less than 30s or a minute. Did your tick kept ticking after the cold start or stopped? I really hope its not the lifters/Cam. The engine runs good nice and quiet when driving after its warm.
What you say your truck is doing perfectly describes a broken exhaust manifold bolt. Mine also quieted down pretty quick as the truck warmed up, which is the metals expanding and kind of closing up the gap between the head and exhaust manifold that’s created by the bolt being broken. The lifter/cam tick wouldn’t quiet down like that, it would stay more constant.
Any issues with the “hemi tick” getting worse and becoming a misfire from the notorious lifter and cam issue?
Only tick on my truck has been this exhaust manifold bolt and the normal ticking these Hemis have. I haven’t had any issues at all with the lifters. I’ve been sending out oil samples for analysis with my last few oil changes and the results have been coming back showing a perfectly normal engine with no signs of lifter/cam issues at all, and my truck is now at 137K miles
Great video. Your brake rotors are on the opposite side btw. It’s commonly installed this way but most people don’t know that it’s wrong. Look it up.
Thanks for watching but according to Powerstop, which is where these brakes came from, they're on correctly. They were labeled for their specific sides which I followed when I installed them and I just verified the directions are correct per Powerstop on their own site.
i whanted to hear a before and after sound check
36:25
Forgot how painful it is to not have a power ratchet. Crazy.
I definitely need to invest in one soon.
Any chance this manifold leak was causing you some overheating?
No, I never had any overheating issues except for one time when towing my RV in the summer and not realizing my coolant level was a bit low. This manifold leak is more of an annoyance than anything else. I drove with it happening for quite some time and have known some people that have gone years without addressing it and not having any issues.
How long did it actually take you start to finish?
Hard to say, 4-6 hours maybe? I started on a Saturday around noon or so, and didn't wrap it up until after it got dark the same day, but I stopped in the middle (after I saw where the bolt sheared but before I broke it at the head) to run to the store to get some oil change supplies. I figured since I had the truck in the garage and raised up, and since it looked like I wasn't going to have to do any drilling at that moment, I might as well do an oil change too, which I started before the moment things went south. Plus I normally work at a slower pace to try and not miss anything, and on top of that was filming at the same time which slows down progress even more. If I were to do this again and worked uninterrupted at it without slowing down to film I'd bet I could finish it in 2-3 hours max.
So weird, same thing happened to my fender liner
I still don't know how it happened either, and at this point it seems the plastic wants to stay that way. Fixed it as best I could here and it eventually went right back to looking caved in.
If it’s gonna break it always happens when you’re away from home!
Thanks … perfect 👍🏻…😎
thanks for watching and commenting!
Good boy!!
Is this a thing where the dealer will tell you every single time, you need a complete valve lifter and cam operation, despite all indications it is a leaking exhaust manifold?
Hopefully it's not a thing. If it is I'd definitely stay away from that dealer. All these ticks are common enough that any service tech that isn't a complete rookie should be able to easily tell the difference between the normal hemi tick, the exhaust manifold tick, and the lifter tick. The telltale sign with this exhaust manifold tick too is that it'll normally quiet down as the engine warms up so it's an easy one to differentiate. Even I figured it out and this was my first time ever hearing this type of tick lol.
I have the same problem with my 2017 Ram 1500. I didn't even have the dealership quote it out for me. After they said it was $800 to change spark plug I didntneven want to hesr what they would charge for real work like this.
haha, yeah, I feel the same about the dealership and didn't even get a quote either knowing it would be some astronomical price. Plus it's always a hassle even just calling and getting info when you know the problem and they just want to get you in the door and waste half your day so that they can try and upsell you on anything they can.
how to prevent this on happening again?
There's a company that makes the same manifold but redesigned the mounting areas and bolts that supposedly prevents it from happening again so that's one option. Another is to just replace the manifolds with a set of headers.
It's crazy that Dodge hasn't corrected this issue or allowed consumers to get this fixed as a recall. Either drive a truck with a horrible ticking noise or buy over $2K for the dealership to repair it. Not to mention, most aftermarket warranties will not cover the repairs.
Probably one of those things that by the time these trucks started seeing this problem more often, Ram figured it wasn't worth the cost to develop a fix for something that wasn't a safety issue or cause of other failures, especially since it seems to mostly happen well after the factory warranty would have expired.
Sucks ass working on thr ground beats yer body up hunched over awkward positions. Got my bolts off with the mig weilder method. One took about 30 tries. Nice work!
What happened to the drill?
not sure what you mean?
Ive definitely been there. You think you got it then you start getting cocky and start rushing and forcing it then all of a sudden shazam BOOM your garage Burns down. Those were the good old days
use jack stands, relieve pressure on jack.
It's kind of hidden in this vid but I did have a jack stand under there. I always use jack stands and lower the jack so that the stand does all the work. I still leave the jack under and raised up just to act as a backup.
Hey Sir! This is Coverado. We sincerely look for a collaboration with you!
Are you interested in trying our Ram seat covers or mud flaps and fog lights?😊
So what is wrong with the manifold?
poor design creates a ton of heat at the back which over times causes it the manifold to warp just enough to create enough tension on the bolt to cause it to break
You left out the exhaust manifold bolt sequence! Pretty important people.
@joefish3381 what is the sequence?
I have the same problem, noisy hard
My truck has the exhaust valve farts too.... 😅😅😅😅
the right side is sooo much easier than the left.
Yup, I at least had that going for me here.
in the south we run Shell Rotella oil it has Zinc usually the mechanical tick goes away
Holy snikes 😅
you dont need to drill that deep to get those out.
Just get some used 6.4 headers and 6.4 mid pipes better airflow power sound and badass
I got mine for $75 and catless hellcat mids for $100
That is another option for sure. In my case I'm probably only going to have this truck for another year max and it spends time hauling the famiy and RV on long road trips so modifying the exhaust isn't an option. Now if this were like my old regular cab that I raced, that'd be another story completely. I'd have used this as an excuse to just throw on some long tubes lol.
A decent machine shop should be able to resurface the manifold vs replacement
true, and I honestly don't know how much they would charge for something like that, but when you can get a new one for only $100 I doubt you're going to save that much, plus you don't have to worry about stopping mid job to go and drive out to a shop and then wait around while they do the work.
Hi Chris , I had watched you vid ; You got it done ! lol👍 . I would have never ordered the stock Mopar manifolds you used ; there are much better Iron manifolds on the market for substitution , you will be experiencing the same issues at some time again .. One tip when and if you need to drill out a manifold bolt again , don't use Titanium Nitrite coated drill bits , use Black Oxide drill bits that are used for a harder metal and will drill much easier .. And use a "very slight" amount of Hi Temp Anti Seize on those manifold bolts when installing them , to prevent galling .... ✌
As long as these same manifolds last 100K like the originals I’m ok with that since I probably won’t have this Ram anymore by then lol. Thanks for the tips too, I’ve been taking note of them in case I have to do something like this again. Better drill bits were definitely needed
@@Scavenger1320 Hi Chris , 100k .. 👏 .. nice 👍 , lol , hope they go the distance 👍 Guess what I’m doing tomorrow .., 2017 .. can ya believe it , lol, it should all go well , low mileage , clean .. ✌️
@@RichieD088 good luck with it! Hope it goes smoother for you than it did me
No offense intended, but when that bent bolt started turning hard, I would have stopped, sprayed it down, and tightened it, and loosened it, effectively working it back and forth. Rather than forcing it out, until it broke. I think that would have saved you a lot of aggravation and time.
No offense taken, like I said in the vid, I had no idea what I was doing lol, I just dive in and get it done. Plus putting up these vids is a good way to get tips, and you just gave me one for the next time. Although hopefully there isn’t a next time with this scenario.
The new will break the bolts should have kept the original one. Grind it level due to its been through the heat cycles and won’t warp anymore. The new one will
Maybe so, but by the time that happens again I probably won't have this truck anymore. Plus I don't know any machine shops around me to do that or how much they'd charge and you can pretty much get a new manifold for probably around the same price a shop would charge to resurface it. Now if I had the equipment to do it myself sure, but I don't.
I would've bought a set of Shorty aftermarket headers they would've been cheaper and much better for the engine
It's funny people keep saying how shorties are cheaper but I'm wondering where these are coming from cause I haven't found a set yet that are that cheap. The manifold kit I linked to is only $100. That's 200 if you wanted to get both sides although usually you only need one. That said, if I weren't planning on trading the truck in soon or wasn't trying to keep it 100% stock I'd have gone the shorty route too, but it didn't make sense for me in this case, plus it would have added more work.
Man this whole video is stressing me out just knowing I have at least 3 broken bolts to replace on mine 😐
One was definitely stressful enough, can’t imagine if I had to drill out multiple. Good luck with it!
It’s not as bad as you think brethren. Just go for it. Put some tunes on and start working. Take your time and you’ll get it done. I had to replace both manifolds over the weekend unfortunately. 5 broken bolts-shits annoying but definitely doable
Best thing to do on these is replace manifolds with short tube headers if you just put another stock manifold on it it'll just happen again
Yeah, but then I'd have to deal with working on both sides lol. Actually getting some headers is normally the route I would usually take, but I wanted to keep this truck completely stock for the first time in my life, plus I'm probably going to be trading it in in the next year or so anyway. If this manifold lasts another 100K miles like the first then it'll be long gone from my life when it happens next.
Why wouldn't you just replace the bolts on both sides ? There's no reason to replace the whole manifold on 1 dide
1 side
Why would you do more work than necessary? Driver side bolts are still fine and it's not like working on one side helps with the other or makes it take any less time. Now if it were a case where you had the engine pulled and had super easy access then sure, but also considering the driver side is harder to get to with the steering column being in the way, it doesn't make sense to take on an extra job "just in case". Besides, odds are I'll trade the truck in before it becomes an issue anyway.
@Scavenger1320 ahh ok I got it I didn't know it was more difficult on driver side
Luck should have sprayed it again or heat the out side ohthehole
These trucks are awesome! Except the bolts!!! Ive replaced mine twice. The only way to fix it is to get your headers planed out buy a machine shop. Just replacing the manifold with a brand new one is only a bandaid. As soon as you get a out 30k miles on it with the new headers they are going to warp and bust the bolts again. Ram is screwing people over! They need to own up and recall this. But they wont. I love these trucks but im replacing mine for the third time and trading my truck in once im done. No more ram trucks for me!
105,000 miles. Three times the bolts have broken. P.O.S
Guessing there's other variables at play too. This was my first and it didn't happen until after I crossed 100K miles on it, and the previous year or two has seen a lot of heavy use with a lot of towing which I'm thinking played a part in it finally happening to me. It's been holding up for me so far and I've continued to tow with it and I have no reason to believe it won't go another 100K before the next one. Although honestly, if I wasn't planning on trading up in the next year, I'd have just installed a set of shorty headers and never have to worry about it. But also, at least it's not a critical issue. It's annoying, but I drove with with this busted bolt for about a year before I did this fix
@@Scavenger1320 i agree 100% its not a critical issue although really annoying. I had a 16 ram with 80k miles never had the issue. I got a 17 with 20k miles on it and like ive said its been a repetative issue with my truck and alot of others ive met and read about. Its a real issue. I mean better than chevrolet transmission failure.
@@therealDYL93 That's fair. To be honest though I'm a life long Mopar owner so anything else isn't even an option for me lol. This 2017 is my 5th Ram now, I previously had an 86, 93, 97, and an 02, and I'm probably going to be getting my 6th next year.
Hi 👋 Chris I 👍 Like Laredo 🌮 Taco Company In Pharr On Next 🎆 Friday.
Dont waist your money on new manifolds when its just going to happen again... take your old ones which have been heat cycled already and have them decked back flat... they are far less likely to warp more.
Good luck. I called every machine shop within 100 miles and nobody has the equipment to do it supposedly.
@@bradsobik5599 it's a exaust manifold so it doesn't have to be perfectly machined... if your careful you can use a large belt sander and use bluing to get close to flat
@@bradsobik5599buy BD Diesel manifolds. Proven to be the best option for the hemi tick, specifically designed to be better than the OE by 10 folds absolutely amazing and good price
The broken bolts on the right hand side of the Dodge Rams are caused by poor engineering if they would have went with a lighter weight catalytic converter or more support on the exhaust on the right side or the passenger side they wouldn't be having this damn problem if you find a way to support it or get rid of the cast iron log exhaust and go with a good header add an APR bolt set it will never happen
Dude. Invest in power tools. Lol
keep watching my vids without skipping ads and make sure to be subscribed and maybe I can afford some one day lol. Actually I did just get a cordless impact wrench finally for christmas, along with a couple power wood working tools i have no use for so I'm going to exchange those for a cordless power ratchet
Shut uo and work. Jesus
To much yappin and not enough doing..,
A numbnitz that does not know but likes the sound of their voice.
Don't buy used ram or jeep, at least you want a lot of waste in time and money... toyotas are better
Don’t buy used toyota or lexus, at least you want a lot of waste in time and boredom… mopars are better
Last time I checked Toyota doesn’t make any real trucks. Unless you consider the tundra or Tacoma as trucks. There’s a reason they don’t sell a lot of them.