Видео

Wow, that sucks to hear and sounds like there might be some history there, maybe someone tried to fix it before and screwed it up? If that's a ram dealer they should definitely be experienced with it. If not, might need to find a different shop.

I’m really surprised Stellantis didn’t have a single sign or anything by it to tell people what it was. It did make listening to people’s comments about it amusing though knowing full well what it actually was

You likely should refresh your research. Or at least watch the video with your eyes open.

That connector is for both the rear park sensors and the side marker lights in the bumper. That's weird that it comes on after the car gets warmed up, I'm not sure how that would affect the wiring, unless it's actually just a time issue that just coincides with around the time it takes to get warmed up. Either way checking the connector is definitely a good place to start, and easy. Hope it gets figured out. The shop should at least look into it, being it's from a rear-ender I can't see how it wouldn't be related being its the rear sensors

that seems to be what most people thought there too. It was interesting listening to people talk about it trying to figure out what it was. In typical Stellantis fashion, they set this thing out there on display with absolutely no signage of any kind around it, so most people had no idea what it was unless there happened to be a marketing rep nearby to explain it.

I think some people just look at it as a 'all or nothing' situation. The tune is mainly for getting the fans to turn on earlier to make full use of the lower temp t-stat, but when you're moving, air is naturally flowing through the radiator so having the fans tuned doesn't make much difference there. Plus after a run the a/c ban isn't an issue so by the time you get back to the pits the temps should be lower, that means a quicker cool-down since it'll be cooling down from 185-190 instead of from 205-210. Also, I had to do a double-take when I saw a pic of a hellraisin 1320 in the staging lanes at MIR and could see a lack of interior, until I saw the sunroof and that it looked a bit weird and realized it was you. I saw your run against the white hellcat durango too. She posted a vid of it on her facebook.

Ha. I installed a BMW sunroof delete panel, overlapped with vinyl wrap around the edges to keep it secure. Yep, that was me 😅. I lost during the 1st round. I didn't react quick enough. Was a fun event . I couldn't get there on Friday because of work.

​@Scavenger1320 at MIR saw a bunch of Demon 170's, most of which had completely stock interiors. I was so tempted to ask "hey, do you mind if I strip your car? It'll knock a few tenths off your time..." if I had a 170, I'd definitely GUT THE INTERIOR.

@@1320_ikimasho I need to make it out to an event that way so I can check out your sunroof. Hopefully 2025 will be a better race year for me. And yeah, you know I'd do the same to a D170 that I did to mine. Although if I was able to order it like I tried to, it would have been a no option version so I probably would have at least tried for the true 8.91 stock time before I started tearing it apart

​@Scavenger1320 it's the Race German- BMW Sunroof Delete Panel. I looked at the specs and thought it might fit the Challenger. It weighs 3 lbs. Saw some cool Hellraisin Challengers at MIR- a really nice T/A and a SP. We couldn't help but gaggle for awhile. As for the 170, maybe the price tag involved makes one hesitant to strip it.

That's why I originally got this shorter belt. Technically it shouldn't offer much, if any, improvement since the a/c pulley shouldn't be robbing much power when the pulley clutch is disengaged. But there's still at least some drag there, even if miniscule. Like I always say though, doesn't matter how small the benefit, it all adds up. That said the shorter belt is staying on so my future runs will be with it.

Except it's not just on me, there's also my wife and 8 year old daughter. Fact is most people split up this trip into 3 days, so when we do it in 2 we're already pushing the limits, so yeah, an extra 1-2 hours puts it past the tipping point.

ok that makes sense.

The settings may be the same for the coolant temp regardless if the A/C is on but there's gotta be some other setting that doesn't depend on the coolant temp. With the A/C on and working the fans were on well before the coolant got to 215-217. Plus they stayed on even after the coolant temps dipped below even the stock t-stat rating. I'm guessing it has something to do with the a/c system pressure. I'm trying to get the fans on while the car is running though too, not just when sitting in the pits or staging lanes.

@@Scavenger1320 Back to this discussion after 1.5 days in the hospital for another stent. I can see an A/C pressure for fans, 1862 kPa for high speed and 1442 kPa for low. Maybe there is some wiring change that could reverse them but A/C would probably need to be on to activate fans that way. As well there is a transmission temp trigger, 232° for high speed and 228° for low. Just guessing but thinking AlphaOBD may provide the best opportunity to adjust something without tuning.

You could essentially put that circuit on a toggle switch in the car to run the fans . Obviously you want the engine to run cooler than stock

I would leave the ac belt on and trick the AC pressure switch to cool the engine with the fans this would also shut the compressor clutch off during the fan operation .

I'm gonna have to do a bit more research into this pressure switch. The electrical systems in these cars seem to be so sensitive I'd be scared of screwing something up and causing the system to freak out.

These cars have Data logging, and every time you plug something in the OBD2 port it leaves a footprint in the logging. If a problem occurs, Dodge could blame the device and decide not to repair the problem. I could be wrong about that though... In any case, I think I'll save $350 and continue to look for a simple pressure switch bypass solution that will allow me to run the fans between races and while in the staging lanes to take full advantage of the lower temperature thermostat to reduce heat soak.

Take that cai off and put a velocity horn on that throttle body already...

@@artillerybuff2000 If you’re racing it won’t be covered anyway so there is that.

@Preditor65 Actually that is incorrect. The 1320 is named after the quarter mile race track, was built, advertised, and sold to drag race. That is why it only comes with one seat, trans brake, line lock, launch control, 41 spline axles, Drag Race mode activation button on the dash, knurled bead race wheels, and drag tires from the factory. It even comes with a supplemental manual telling you how to break it in and how to race it. I have never heard of a warranty claim being denied for an unmodified 1320 or Demon. As a matter of fact, it even came with a free one year NHRA membership!

Tazer is a bit pricey when the fans would be the only actual benefit, but also does it work with the engine running? I read some posts from people saying the cooldown mode was only for when the engine was off, and I'm wanting the fans on when the car is running, not when it's off.

Thanks!

From what i've read it does in fact appear to be linked to the pressure switch and will only turn the fans on when the system is pressurized. I think I know where the pressure switch is but how to fool it is another issue and I'm not sure I can figure that out. I do have some other ideas though that I need to look into more.

@Scavenger1320 There has to be air moving through the condenser or the A/C pressure will get way too high. So the cooling fans are activated by engine temp and/or A/C head pressure. That pressure switch probably has three or four wires running to it. Wish I still had contacts in the dealership service department.

I honestly never even heard of Kroil before. I'll have to look into it.

@@Scavenger1320 industrial grade. CAUTION do not breath in fumes!!! hold breath spray and move away. yet it will loosen up stuff that PB blaster can't touch!

I can't afford all the great tool excuses I have lol

@@Scavenger1320 truth!!!! ha ha ha

and finally thanks for the comments too!

and thanks for the like!

Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!

The problem is that 1. It's not a safety issue so they don't care and 2. In most cases it doesn't break until after the warranty is expired anyway so again, they don't care, and 3. It's an easy fix that will drive people into the service department and possibly into the showroom while they wait, and that's what they care about. Also, even though it is common, it doesn't always happen to everyone.

It's slightly warped, which is what caused the bolt to break to begin with. You could sand the face flat, but I don't have the tools and didn't want to go searching for a machine shop to do so. Plus the manifolds aren't really that expensive anyway so you're not saving much time going to a machine shop.

@Scavenger1320 I just cleaned my surfaces and put it on with all new bolts. No problem 50k miles. Just sayin

@@michaelbell2084 Yeah, that works sometimes and I know other people have reused it, just depends how badly warped it is. Maybe mine would have been fine too, but the manifolds are pretty cheap compared to my time, and since the manifold was coming off anyway, it made more sense for me to just replace it and be done versus risking still having leak issues from a still warped manifold and having to tear it apart again.

No brake clean but I did wipe them down

haha, yeah they were. I tend to drive a bit more, um, lets say "spirited" lol.

@@Scavenger1320 🤣🤣🤣

IF and WHERE you can find it. And it's usually more than $3 if you do find it!

@@greghale717 I found it at Walmart for $29, platinum is $26

I honestly just go with the factory recommended specs in most cases, especially with a new vehicle. I've seen too many dealers try to void warranties for the stupidest reasons, especially when it comes to oil changes.

Glad I could help. It's happened to me just like that before too which is why I made this vid. Thanks for watching!

Weird comparison to a car 50 years older lol

No, I don't think so, they should fit fine

I wouldn't worry too much about it. I doubt much, if any, exhaust is making its way into the cab. It won't cause any mechanical issues either. I drove with the broken exhaust bolt for about a year I think and never had any problems. I've probably sat still with it idling for long periods a few times too and never noticed any exhaust in the cab.

Thanks brother

CO is a odorless gas that displaced O2 in lungs and leads to a quiet death. Not something to take lightly. So exhaust fumes in cab is a big deal, or it should be.

@@sheepdog3828 Breathing in exhaust is definitely a big deal, and although it can lead to a quiet death, there are still symptoms, and at no point have I ever experienced any before. But also, if there was a true risk of that from the exhaust manifold bolt being broken, then this entire issue would then become an actual safety issue, and that would mean the manufacturer couldn't keep ignoring it and would have to address it.

Oh trust me I am very aware… but I don’t have the time or money to fix this issue immediately, and I am pretty pissed that it will probably happen again anyway. I’ve been using a mobile CO detector the last few weeks to be safe and so far there has been no CO entering the cabin under a variety of circumstances. Since 90% of rams on the road have had/have this issue for decades and we don’t see Ram drivers dropping like flies, I’m going to assume it’s not immediately dangerous. Still, I agree it shouldn’t be taken lightly, and this is something Ram NEEDS TO FIX