Yeah, Steve White got a few in stock after I gave him the part info a year or two ago but he sold those pretty quick and hasn't been able to get anymore since. Once in a while I'll check to see if any are available anywhere, usually after someone asks me about it, and I honestly haven't seen any available since I got mine.
@@Scavenger1320 how to Dremel a block off plates is something id like to learn..I can fabricate my own neutral switch cover (aluminum sheet, snips, drill, etc), but dremmeling is next.
@@1320_ikimasho Honestly what I was doing didn't require much skill, and there's probably an easier way. Dremeling away at that piece of plastic took more patience than anything lol. I'm about to custom fab a couple things with aluminum sheet too, but just a couple simple things, nothing that'll require much skill there either.
I did think about that, but I don't have a 3d printer and have never actually used one. I did run into a 3d printing company at a small local town street fair once and asked about them possibly making one or more for me and the costs were ridiculous. My daughter got one of those 3d printing pens this past christmas and I was thinking about trying it out and seeing if I could use it to make one. At the very least it did give me an idea on how to better attach the bolts.
Your 1320 weight reduction effort is amazing. Every time I think you've gone as far as you can, you find more stuff to take off! What I don't understand is why anyone would purchase the $4,000,00 drag racing package, then add in front & rear passenger seats, sun roof, trunk speakers, etc. If a person wants a loaded car, that's great, but why not save 4k and get a regular scat pack? Dealers really do not know how to option cars out correctly, and sometimes fight you on special orders, which I kinda get, if you back out they're potentially stuck with an oddball hard to sell car...
Yeah, that stuff doesn't make sense to me either. Especially the people that got a single seater AND a sunroof. I think I did read where one guy said he did that just because he knew it would be ever rarer. Still not a good reason to do that.
Another way to lose weight, expensive, but works... replace steel bolts with titanium and aluminum. I did my 911 turbo... lug studs and half shaft bolts, fender bolts. Use titanium on anything rotating like pump pulley bolts, crank pulley. Titanium is about 40% lighter, and doesn't rust. Valve cover bolts, bolts in the doors, shifter, nuts, too. The 4 bolts for the seat, change to titanium. All of it adds up. Unfortunately, it isn't cheap, lugs and castle nuts for shafts is rotational weight and is worth it, in my opinion. The only bolts I wouldn't use titanium on, head, main, flex plate, and rod. Any rotational weight savings is worth it, my opinion.
Titanium lugs are definitely on my list. I didn't really think about other bolts and hardware but that's a good idea. I might have to look into some of those and see how pricey it might be. Could be something I just replace a few at a time. My Kirkey seat would probably be a good place to start since I just used generic steel hardware to mount it. Thanks for the tip!
Awesome videos! I do have a question. You have your interior out. Do you have access to the inside rear quarter area where that factory foam was sprayed into the quarters? I see a possible black push in piece from one of your videos where take the interior out that may give access to the foam. I want to get rid of it as I have seen tons of forums where that holds moisture and starts to rust over time. Can you confirm if there is access to that area from the inside of the car? Thanks in advance.
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I just put up a short vid showing the available access here: ruclips.net/user/shortsC0SjzWpVTB4?si=f0obK1Ldsu5Rid_g Hopefully that helps you out. Basically most of the access is through the inner rocker panels. There's not much you can get to through the inner quarters.
Picked up a Dremel 3000, and working on a sunroof delete using Lexan poly. The sunroof with hoses weighs about 31 lbs 😮. I will also take out the passenger mirror and see if i can create something to seal it off.
I definitely want to see the finished product on what you come up with for the sunroof. Might even make for a good vid if you make it to MoParty and wouldn't mind me filming one.
@Scavenger1320 sure, you're welcome to film the finished product. I'm working on a "budget-friendly" sunroof delete that doesn't involve any drilling etc.
Have you thought about replacing the side markers with some kind of lightweight equivalent? removing and replacing those (except the front driver side one) is super easy and quick.
I've pulled the side markers to add tint to them and they weigh almost nothing. If there was a lightweight equivalent it would be surprising if it saved more than half an ounce.
@@Scavenger1320 ah, ok. I didn't look up the weight for those pieces before commenting. Keep up the great work!! seeing what you do with an n/a build is badass!!! and if you ever decide to boost....cool!!!
I'll have to see what they did, can't say I've watched them. All I know about Alex Taylor is that she was one of the Dodge sponsored racers at Roadkill Nights that put the redeye crate into an old plymouth or something like that.
In short, they tubbed a WB HC, put in a Ford 9", took out the wiring /installed Holley EFI, etc. Dropped about a 1000 lbs, then put weight back _in_ the car for a closer 50/50 weight. 😂 Crazy, but inspiring 😁.
@@1320_ikimasho Ah, the stuff I would never do. There's no going back from any of that. Honestly, if I ever were to go a route like that, I'd start with a cheap V6 car to chop up and throw a crate motor in it. The powertrain the car came with from the factory doesn't matter when you're getting that deep into it.
@@Scavenger1320 You have a very valid point. That would be be very hard to recover from. Unless there's a way in the future to do some sort of interchangeable chassis swap.
That is just a matter of money. Right now I’m broke and can’t afford them, but if that ever changes I’d love to get a carbon fiber trunk lid, doors, and other parts
I have all my vehicles with Geico. Car has what most people would consider "full" coverage (a term I honestly never liked as technically that doesn't really exist). But that doesn't cover anything that happens while on a dragstrip or race track. As far as I know, there are no common insurance carriers that have any kind of endorsement for racing. It's just a risk you have to take. I know there are some specialty insurance companies like Hagerty that offer track day insurance, I haven't looked to deep into those but from what I've found, most of them are more for road course type events and not necessarily drag racing.
@Scavenger1320 I have the Hagerty Auto Sportsman plan, it covers all track events, trailering, etc., $55,000 replacement, super low deductibles, and cost $500 per year. I don't drive my car on the street, so it works for me.
@@artillerybuff2000 that's good to know they have a plan like that. I might have to look into Hagerty one of these days at least to see everything they offer.
I thought you were going another direction with that one when I just saw up to the "behind you" part lol. Too bad that doesn't apply to bracket racing lol.
Good video! Those OEM block off plates are super rare! I bugged MOPAR parts last year about getting one, and they had no idea where to find any.
Yeah, Steve White got a few in stock after I gave him the part info a year or two ago but he sold those pretty quick and hasn't been able to get anymore since. Once in a while I'll check to see if any are available anywhere, usually after someone asks me about it, and I honestly haven't seen any available since I got mine.
@@Scavenger1320 how to Dremel a block off plates is something id like to learn..I can fabricate my own neutral switch cover (aluminum sheet, snips, drill, etc), but dremmeling is next.
@@1320_ikimasho Honestly what I was doing didn't require much skill, and there's probably an easier way. Dremeling away at that piece of plastic took more patience than anything lol. I'm about to custom fab a couple things with aluminum sheet too, but just a couple simple things, nothing that'll require much skill there either.
Great video
Thanks!
You should 3d print a cover Chris, easy peasy!
I did think about that, but I don't have a 3d printer and have never actually used one. I did run into a 3d printing company at a small local town street fair once and asked about them possibly making one or more for me and the costs were ridiculous. My daughter got one of those 3d printing pens this past christmas and I was thinking about trying it out and seeing if I could use it to make one. At the very least it did give me an idea on how to better attach the bolts.
Your 1320 weight reduction effort is amazing. Every time I think you've gone as far as you can, you find more stuff to take off! What I don't understand is why anyone would purchase the $4,000,00 drag racing package, then add in front & rear passenger seats, sun roof, trunk speakers, etc. If a person wants a loaded car, that's great, but why not save 4k and get a regular scat pack? Dealers really do not know how to option cars out correctly, and sometimes fight you on special orders, which I kinda get, if you back out they're potentially stuck with an oddball hard to sell car...
Yeah, that stuff doesn't make sense to me either. Especially the people that got a single seater AND a sunroof. I think I did read where one guy said he did that just because he knew it would be ever rarer. Still not a good reason to do that.
Another great one! Thanks Chris!
Thanks for continuing to watch and comment!
No problem, I will keep up with your build and good luck!!
Next you should remove the paint
actually laughed out loud on this comment! good one...
yeah, but then with just bare steel it would rust over time and that rust would just add the weight back so I think I'll pass on that idea for now.
@@Scavenger1320 I was joking 🙃 lol
I just can't do that to my 1320.
Another way to lose weight, expensive, but works... replace steel bolts with titanium and aluminum. I did my 911 turbo... lug studs and half shaft bolts, fender bolts. Use titanium on anything rotating like pump pulley bolts, crank pulley. Titanium is about 40% lighter, and doesn't rust. Valve cover bolts, bolts in the doors, shifter, nuts, too. The 4 bolts for the seat, change to titanium. All of it adds up. Unfortunately, it isn't cheap, lugs and castle nuts for shafts is rotational weight and is worth it, in my opinion. The only bolts I wouldn't use titanium on, head, main, flex plate, and rod. Any rotational weight savings is worth it, my opinion.
Titanium lugs are definitely on my list. I didn't really think about other bolts and hardware but that's a good idea. I might have to look into some of those and see how pricey it might be. Could be something I just replace a few at a time. My Kirkey seat would probably be a good place to start since I just used generic steel hardware to mount it. Thanks for the tip!
Great videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻…..😎
Thanks for the continued support!
Always…😎
Awesome videos! I do have a question. You have your interior out. Do you have access to the inside rear quarter area where that factory foam was sprayed into the quarters? I see a possible black push in piece from one of your videos where take the interior out that may give access to the foam. I want to get rid of it as I have seen tons of forums where that holds moisture and starts to rust over time. Can you confirm if there is access to that area from the inside of the car? Thanks in advance.
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I just put up a short vid showing the available access here: ruclips.net/user/shortsC0SjzWpVTB4?si=f0obK1Ldsu5Rid_g Hopefully that helps you out. Basically most of the access is through the inner rocker panels. There's not much you can get to through the inner quarters.
Picked up a Dremel 3000, and working on a sunroof delete using Lexan poly. The sunroof with hoses weighs about 31 lbs 😮. I will also take out the passenger mirror and see if i can create something to seal it off.
I definitely want to see the finished product on what you come up with for the sunroof. Might even make for a good vid if you make it to MoParty and wouldn't mind me filming one.
@Scavenger1320 sure, you're welcome to film the finished product. I'm working on a "budget-friendly" sunroof delete that doesn't involve any drilling etc.
How much It weight now?
I've got it in the mid 3500 range now
@@Scavenger1320 Amazing, thank you.
Have you thought about replacing the side markers with some kind of lightweight equivalent? removing and replacing those (except the front driver side one) is super easy and quick.
I've pulled the side markers to add tint to them and they weigh almost nothing. If there was a lightweight equivalent it would be surprising if it saved more than half an ounce.
@@Scavenger1320 ah, ok. I didn't look up the weight for those pieces before commenting. Keep up the great work!! seeing what you do with an n/a build is badass!!! and if you ever decide to boost....cool!!!
Another thought, I saw what Dennis/Alex Taylor did their Challenger and was considering the same.
I'll have to see what they did, can't say I've watched them. All I know about Alex Taylor is that she was one of the Dodge sponsored racers at Roadkill Nights that put the redeye crate into an old plymouth or something like that.
In short, they tubbed a WB HC, put in a Ford 9", took out the wiring /installed Holley EFI, etc. Dropped about a 1000 lbs, then put weight back _in_ the car for a closer 50/50 weight. 😂 Crazy, but inspiring 😁.
@@1320_ikimasho Ah, the stuff I would never do. There's no going back from any of that. Honestly, if I ever were to go a route like that, I'd start with a cheap V6 car to chop up and throw a crate motor in it. The powertrain the car came with from the factory doesn't matter when you're getting that deep into it.
@@Scavenger1320 You have a very valid point. That would be be very hard to recover from. Unless there's a way in the future to do some sort of interchangeable chassis swap.
👍🏼
Are you going to do carbon parts at some point ?
That is just a matter of money. Right now I’m broke and can’t afford them, but if that ever changes I’d love to get a carbon fiber trunk lid, doors, and other parts
Should have ordered 2 of them, the holes look similar?
Similar, but not exactly the same and they're mirrored opposites so the passenger side plate won't fit into the driver side.
Hey Chris, what insurance do you have on your Challenger to cover you on the street and at the track?
Thanks~Anthony
I have all my vehicles with Geico. Car has what most people would consider "full" coverage (a term I honestly never liked as technically that doesn't really exist). But that doesn't cover anything that happens while on a dragstrip or race track. As far as I know, there are no common insurance carriers that have any kind of endorsement for racing. It's just a risk you have to take. I know there are some specialty insurance companies like Hagerty that offer track day insurance, I haven't looked to deep into those but from what I've found, most of them are more for road course type events and not necessarily drag racing.
@Scavenger1320 I have the Hagerty Auto Sportsman plan, it covers all track events, trailering, etc., $55,000 replacement, super low deductibles, and cost $500 per year. I don't drive my car on the street, so it works for me.
@@artillerybuff2000 that's good to know they have a plan like that. I might have to look into Hagerty one of these days at least to see everything they offer.
Dont need to see behind you if nobody can keep up right? 🤣
I thought you were going another direction with that one when I just saw up to the "behind you" part lol. Too bad that doesn't apply to bracket racing lol.