Hi Chris! Hope you're doing well. My overall opinion is "snake oil". I prefer to use top tier fuel and lubricants and avoid additives, with the exception of diesel fuel which needs help since the removal of sulfur. BTW, every comparison test I have seen shows Amsoil beating Pennzoil in flow and wear prevention. I've been using Amsoil products for over 30 years with analysis. Thanks for the video!
Guess I first replied before you finished your comment lol. You've been using Amsoil for 30 years and I've been reading about it and skirting around using it for 30 years lol. I used to only use Mobil 1. At this point the way my luck goes I'd probably run into some kind of crazy issues if I finally decided to take the leap and use it. I only started with Pennzoil with my 1320 since that's what Dodge specified and I've heard too many horror stories of dealers trying to deny warranties for the stupidest and completely unrelated reasons. And knowing the way I was going to really use this car I figured I'd just stay safe, and with the Ram it was just easier to switch to the same and unlike my previous Rams and cars, I have no intention of keeping it forever so I wasn't as worried about it, although the Ram has been putting in the work for me.
Great Vid! I had a 300zx that was a bit tired and needed my help when i bought it. I sent a sample in to Blackstone around 2000, back when they actually would give you suggestions. My Blackstone tech advised me to find a product with Moly in it, maybe zinc and Boron but i honestly just remember Moly. I bought the product that eventually became Ceratec from Liquid Moly. Additionally i use Motor Saver to restore and bring back gasket material, restore seals and softer material in the engine. It did wonders on my 300zx. I have used both products (Ceratec and motor saver) in my 5.7 Durango since 30,000 miles with 5,000 mile oil changes with Amsoil. I took my valve covers off and at 250,000 it looked cleaner than most 50,000 mile engines. She still makes lots of power, idles beautifully after warm up (Hemi tic until warm) and burns 1/2 a quart every 5,000 since it has been new. I know some gear head will post that im wrong but all i know is that i use Liquid Moly products currently in my 5.0 QX infiniti (110,000 total miles), Durango (260,000 total miles), 2006 Monte Carlo SS (8,000 total miles), GMC Envoy (200,000 total miles), Kia Soul (180,000 miles) Honda CRV (240,000 total miles) and i have ZERO issues. To me its piece of mind.
Gear heads tell me I'm wrong all the time lol. At least you're coming at it with first hand experience and not 'something you read from somebody who has a cousin that's married to a guy who's best friend works at a dealer as a car washer who said so on a forum" lol. I try not to say what's right or wrong, I just do it or test it myself and show my results to maybe help people make their own decision. Thanks for the input and for watching!
Lake Speed Jr put out a good video on this additive. It’s an ester additive, but it doesn’t always work synergistically with all oils and sometimes can hurt. This is why no additive recommended by him.
Meh. Some of lake's videos are questionable or lacking. I don't think he is the last word. He lost all credibility when he did the valvoline restore video at their facility..I see a shill. Besides..he was talking about fr3 in the video not stiction eliminator
It does seem like they have a much better reputation in the diesel world than the gas world. I honestly don't know much about diesels other than their gas pump handles seem to get stupid dirty when I see them so I can only imagine the inside of the engine lol. Makes sense it would benefit from this kind of product.
I am using FR3 in my 2015 Mazda 3 2.0L. I'm something of a hyper-miler and I believe it gave me just under 2% increase in peak fuel economy on the highway. I also did a Blackstone UOA and had a nice, clean report ... but not necessarily any improvement over past reports for the same car/engine. However, Lake Speed had a video on this stuff and said the formulation does not play will with high ester oils like Amsoil and Red Line Oil. So, I won't be getting it again once it's gone.
You're the second person to bring up Lake Speed, I'm going to need to find that vid. I think I remember watching another vid too, (maybe it was him??) that talked about how it can take away or dilute some of the properties of the oil and it makes sense. Either way, I don't plan on using any oil additives anymore either.
You have to drive the car longer than 1k miles to allow the additives to work and remove the deposits. It does not instantly remove everything as soon as you pour it into the crank case or gas tank.
Well, the first oil sample from my Ram I sent in had 8K miles, second had 5K and last had 10K, so that's 23K from when I first added the Stiction Eliminator in it. I'd say that's plenty of time lol. My Challenger I was looking more at the wear aspect since I doubt it had much in deposits with just 8K miles on it total.
Honestly, from what I've read and heard about oil additives there something you stay away from. It's too risky. As far as gas additives I use Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner. I've used it in my Mustang 5.0's and 6.4 Hemi (392). I've never had an issue. Thanks
That's pretty much exactly how I've always felt about it and Chevron Techron was my main fuel system cleaner too. This vid honestly would have never happened if I didn't win these products racing. In the end it kind of just re-inforced what I already thought.
Here is what HSS said when I asked them about the kit for gassers and the difference between the FR3 and Stiction Eliminator. It isn't supposed to be used as you did, where you use one product in one vehicle and another product as a stand alone product in a different engine. This kit is really for one vehicle, as explained in this email. "Stiction eliminator:" Jeremiah Sat, 03/16/24 12:53 pm
Message: in your Gasser Deep Clean you have both the Stiction eliminator w/ FR3 as well as a separate bottle of FR3. Why would I need both, if it is already in the Stiction Eliminator?
Hello Jeremiah, We recommend using Stiction Eliminator once every 2-3 oil changes and FR3 in every oil change that Stiction Eliminator is not being used in. Because Stiction Eliminator is a cleaning oil additive its not necessary for recommended to used in every oil change. If you have any more questions please let me know. Thank you - Abby.
I had a 6.0 power stroke truck, had a sticky injector. Striction eliminator took care of that real good. I tested this by skipping the product and it came back. So the product works real good on diesel injectors.
I definitely read about how good their reputation is in the diesel world when I first got this stuff. I just don't know anything at all about diesels other than it seems like diesel mechanics are always way dirtier and always covered in black gunk versus regular old gas car mechanics lol, so it makes sense to me that something like this would be more beneficial for diesels. Thanks for the input and for watching!
I have done a lot of You Tube research on adding things to oil. Lake Speed The Motor Oil Geek and he has been very clear that you should never put anything into your oil.
That's basically my stance now, and kinda always was. If it wasn't for winning these products and thinking it would make for a good youtube vid I would have never used any of the oil additives. Plus I do like to see things for myself so doing this at least helped solidify my view on it.
Oil is not like milk,... it does not go bad after a few months. Miles is where the wear and tear happens, so the mileage mark is where you should change the oil.
Tell that to Dodge and their service managers lol. Manual shows time and mileage and I've read about people getting warranty claims denied because they didn't follow the manufacturer intervals even if they barely drove their cars.
Clearly the reason for no improvement in MPGs is not that the product is ineffective, but rather the obvious reason is that all/most your trips originated from DFW. Efficacy of such additives often depends on the townships and/or counties of origin and of destination.
Hi Chris!
Hope you're doing well. My overall opinion is "snake oil". I prefer to use top tier fuel and lubricants and avoid additives, with the exception of diesel fuel which needs help since the removal of sulfur. BTW, every comparison test I have seen shows Amsoil beating Pennzoil in flow and wear prevention. I've been using Amsoil products for over 30 years with analysis. Thanks for the video!
well enough lol. Still waiting to schedule my surgery so just trying to do all I can before then.
Guess I first replied before you finished your comment lol. You've been using Amsoil for 30 years and I've been reading about it and skirting around using it for 30 years lol. I used to only use Mobil 1. At this point the way my luck goes I'd probably run into some kind of crazy issues if I finally decided to take the leap and use it. I only started with Pennzoil with my 1320 since that's what Dodge specified and I've heard too many horror stories of dealers trying to deny warranties for the stupidest and completely unrelated reasons. And knowing the way I was going to really use this car I figured I'd just stay safe, and with the Ram it was just easier to switch to the same and unlike my previous Rams and cars, I have no intention of keeping it forever so I wasn't as worried about it, although the Ram has been putting in the work for me.
Great Vid! I had a 300zx that was a bit tired and needed my help when i bought it. I sent a sample in to Blackstone around 2000, back when they actually would give you suggestions. My Blackstone tech advised me to find a product with Moly in it, maybe zinc and Boron but i honestly just remember Moly. I bought the product that eventually became Ceratec from Liquid Moly. Additionally i use Motor Saver to restore and bring back gasket material, restore seals and softer material in the engine. It did wonders on my 300zx. I have used both products (Ceratec and motor saver) in my 5.7 Durango since 30,000 miles with 5,000 mile oil changes with Amsoil. I took my valve covers off and at 250,000 it looked cleaner than most 50,000 mile engines. She still makes lots of power, idles beautifully after warm up (Hemi tic until warm) and burns 1/2 a quart every 5,000 since it has been new. I know some gear head will post that im wrong but all i know is that i use Liquid Moly products currently in my 5.0 QX infiniti (110,000 total miles), Durango (260,000 total miles), 2006 Monte Carlo SS (8,000 total miles), GMC Envoy (200,000 total miles), Kia Soul (180,000 miles) Honda CRV (240,000 total miles) and i have ZERO issues. To me its piece of mind.
Gear heads tell me I'm wrong all the time lol. At least you're coming at it with first hand experience and not 'something you read from somebody who has a cousin that's married to a guy who's best friend works at a dealer as a car washer who said so on a forum" lol. I try not to say what's right or wrong, I just do it or test it myself and show my results to maybe help people make their own decision. Thanks for the input and for watching!
Lake Speed Jr put out a good video on this additive. It’s an ester additive, but it doesn’t always work synergistically with all oils and sometimes can hurt. This is why no additive recommended by him.
Meh. Some of lake's videos are questionable or lacking. I don't think he is the last word. He lost all credibility when he did the valvoline restore video at their facility..I see a shill.
Besides..he was talking about fr3 in the video not stiction eliminator
I have gotten incredible results with stiction eliminator and diesel extreme on a 99 Ford 7.3 powerstroke diesel
It does seem like they have a much better reputation in the diesel world than the gas world. I honestly don't know much about diesels other than their gas pump handles seem to get stupid dirty when I see them so I can only imagine the inside of the engine lol. Makes sense it would benefit from this kind of product.
I am using FR3 in my 2015 Mazda 3 2.0L. I'm something of a hyper-miler and I believe it gave me just under 2% increase in peak fuel economy on the highway. I also did a Blackstone UOA and had a nice, clean report ... but not necessarily any improvement over past reports for the same car/engine. However, Lake Speed had a video on this stuff and said the formulation does not play will with high ester oils like Amsoil and Red Line Oil. So, I won't be getting it again once it's gone.
You're the second person to bring up Lake Speed, I'm going to need to find that vid. I think I remember watching another vid too, (maybe it was him??) that talked about how it can take away or dilute some of the properties of the oil and it makes sense. Either way, I don't plan on using any oil additives anymore either.
@@Scavenger1320 , it could have been this one as well:
ruclips.net/video/kyExgmz5-xM/видео.html
I would use Pennzoil Platinum oil for maximizing fuel economy plus Marvel Mystery Oil or Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the gasoline.
You have to drive the car longer than 1k miles to allow the additives to work and remove the deposits. It does not instantly remove everything as soon as you pour it into the crank case or gas tank.
Well, the first oil sample from my Ram I sent in had 8K miles, second had 5K and last had 10K, so that's 23K from when I first added the Stiction Eliminator in it. I'd say that's plenty of time lol. My Challenger I was looking more at the wear aspect since I doubt it had much in deposits with just 8K miles on it total.
Synthetic dexos every 5k, nothing else. No smoking, no seepage, no topoff between. Chevy/Opel 1.8, 12 years old, 103k.
Great info!
Honestly, from what I've read and heard about oil additives there something you stay away from. It's too risky. As far as gas additives I use Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner. I've used it in my Mustang 5.0's and 6.4 Hemi (392). I've never had an issue. Thanks
That's pretty much exactly how I've always felt about it and Chevron Techron was my main fuel system cleaner too. This vid honestly would have never happened if I didn't win these products racing. In the end it kind of just re-inforced what I already thought.
Here is what HSS said when I asked them about the kit for gassers and the difference between the FR3 and Stiction Eliminator. It isn't supposed to be used as you did, where you use one product in one vehicle and another product as a stand alone product in a different engine. This kit is really for one vehicle, as explained in this email.
"Stiction eliminator:"
Jeremiah
Sat, 03/16/24 12:53 pm
Message: in your Gasser Deep Clean you have both the Stiction eliminator w/ FR3 as well as a separate bottle of FR3. Why would I need both, if it is already in the Stiction Eliminator?
Abby
Mon, 03/18/24 7:17 am
Hello Jeremiah, We recommend using Stiction Eliminator once every 2-3 oil changes and FR3 in every oil change that Stiction Eliminator is not being used in. Because Stiction Eliminator is a cleaning oil additive its not necessary for recommended to used in every oil change. If you have any more questions please let me know.
Thank you - Abby.
Never put any of that junk in your oil.
I had a 6.0 power stroke truck, had a sticky injector. Striction eliminator took care of that real good. I tested this by skipping the product and it came back. So the product works real good on diesel injectors.
I definitely read about how good their reputation is in the diesel world when I first got this stuff. I just don't know anything at all about diesels other than it seems like diesel mechanics are always way dirtier and always covered in black gunk versus regular old gas car mechanics lol, so it makes sense to me that something like this would be more beneficial for diesels. Thanks for the input and for watching!
I have done a lot of You Tube research on adding things to oil. Lake Speed The Motor Oil Geek and he has been very clear that you should never put anything into your oil.
That's basically my stance now, and kinda always was. If it wasn't for winning these products and thinking it would make for a good youtube vid I would have never used any of the oil additives. Plus I do like to see things for myself so doing this at least helped solidify my view on it.
Oil is not like milk,... it does not go bad after a few months. Miles is where the wear and tear happens, so the mileage mark is where you should change the oil.
Tell that to Dodge and their service managers lol. Manual shows time and mileage and I've read about people getting warranty claims denied because they didn't follow the manufacturer intervals even if they barely drove their cars.
Save your money. Use a good oil, and some good gas treatments work, that's it.
Wait. 8K miles on an oil change? Why do you hate your engine so much?
Clearly the reason for no improvement in MPGs is not that the product is ineffective, but rather the obvious reason is that all/most your trips originated from DFW. Efficacy of such additives often depends on the townships and/or counties of origin and of destination.
Well done. Good information for people to see!
Thank you for watching!