2012 owners manual: "NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine must use SAE 5W-20 oil. Failure to do so may result in improper operation of the Multi-Displacement System (MDS)." 2014 owners manual: "NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available" 2016 owners manual: "MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures." 2022 owners manual: "We recommend using Mopar® SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer Material Standard MS-6395. Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-20 engine oil can be used but must have the API Starburst trademark NOTE: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer." So with the EXACT SAME engine with MDS, we went from "you MUST use 20 weight oil" to "it's OK to use 30 weight" to "we recommend even thinner 0W20 weight" and then finally they admitted that the watery 20 weight oils cause ticking because the viscosity is too thin and the lifters bleed down too fast, plus there is improper lubrication.
I've been saying it for years. And you can look at the 3.6 Pentastar as proof. That motor started using 5W30 when it was released in 2009. Very few lifter/cam failures. In 2014 they went to 5W20, we saw an uptick in lifter/cam failures. In 2017/2018 they switched to 0W20 and lifter/cam failures became common. I'm no rocket surgeon, but it doesn't take a PhD to correlate the reduction in viscosity with the increase in failures. I ran Redline 5W30 in my 2013 and 2017 5.7 Hemi's without issue, and run it in my 2012 and 2021 Wrangler/Gladiator without issue. I run Redline 5W40 in my 6.4 without issue. Those thinner oils aren't being used for anything other than FCA chasing a fraction of a percent better fleetwide fuel economy ratings.
I could care less about that MDS system operating, it's annoying kicking in and out and sounds like crap. I turn it off with the manual shift buttons every time I drive, I don't calculate a difference in fuel economy at all.
Honestly your understanding of motor oils is very off. The 0W20 will be the same or more "thickness" as 5W30 in use. This is because 0W20 shears a lot less because it has a combination of better base stocks and less viscosity improvers. Also the difference between a SAE 30 and SAE 20 is about the width of a human hair. This is also why you can use a 5W30 without issue because the width of a human hair makes no difference.
@@davidporter7051 I was always told that the second number was the weight AFTER the additives. So once that's gone your down to the first number, 0, 5, 10 etc. Thats why when you first ran a Model T you used Vegetable oil, but by the time it was a junker, the clearances and tolerances were so bad you could have run maple syrup. Obviously tech has changed over the last 120+ years. But the thinner the oil, the less affective oil pressure you have in the system, to create the barrier to save the parts from wear, due to it being so freely moving in the system. Now, throw in some cold temps, maybe a Canada winter and we have a whole new ball of wax to discuss/argue/speculate on who's right or wrong. Running 0w20 means the tolerances are supper tight for the rod bearings etc but is the oil pump the same in all these engines of the last decade? Whats the oil pressure at idle vs under load? and was it enough to pump it to the top side of the engine to keep the lifters happy.
I have the 392 and it had the HEMI tick... I remembered this video so much appreciated. I went with 5w40 full synthetic - the manufacuer recommends 0w40 and wow its gone. I cant believe how much smoother the engine sounds, purrs like a kitten...the tick instantly went away = total win.
This is what I was looking for cause I too have the 6.4. Was getting concerned about that tick. Truck had 30k miles on it when I bought it. I’m at 34k now and wanted to change oil to see if it went away or not. Thanks
@@warmeds2009I have a 19 5.7 with a tick. I think I’m going to try a thicker weight oil (possibly what you went with) Have you noticed any crazy oil pressure numbers??
Thanks a Lot man, I had a tick noise in my 2014 Hemi dodge ram so I fond your video and I change the oil to 5w30 and the Hemi tick is GONE ! .... Respect from Saudi Ariba.
I agree 100% with this from my own experience. Bought my Ram and noticed the ticking symphony at start up. I then switched to Amsoil 5W-30 and Wix filter. The ticking symphony quit and went away immediately. Just run 5W-30 and a filter that flows well.
Hey guys auto tech here currently for dodge and worked a little bit for gm You are spot on sir All vehicles with the 0w-20 weight and 5w-20 weight That weight is too thin Helps give these new vehicles a couple extra miles per gallon but reliability goes way down After talking to some guys who’ve been doing it longer than I’ve been alive and in combination with my own experience If you switch to a thicker weight 5w30 or 10w30 You’ll lose a couple extra miles per gallon however the extra thickness really helps coat that cam and the lifters Just thought I’d chime in you were spot on with your video
@@scottcpan68 what’s really insane is that if they didn’t have the active fuel management (afm) or if deleted and ran the thicker oil I would be out of a job These cars are actually made very well and borderline bullet proof what’s screwing everything up is the emission laws being passed by legislation. I have plenty of friends who again have done this a while Built their own race cars Hell they’ve forgot more about cars than I could ever know And even they agree with that statement Take away the afm bs and you got yourself a bullet proof machine
Hemi engine do not like anything over 10-30 because it’s starts to restric in the passages and so forth exspecially in order gums up engines ! Also a Mopar tech been building Mopar for years !! Drag racer/builder
Exactly. I ve been saying this for years. The thinner oil nowadays is all for better fuel economy. Also, newer engines have a higher oil capacity than years ago. Probably cause the thinner oil burns easily and having an extra quart or two in the bigger oil pan helps keep it lubricated. I remember 4 cyl engines from the 80s tool 3.5- 4 qts . Now they are up to 6 qts in some brands.
I have a 2011 5.7 Hemi 180,000 miles I’m going to try 5/30 or 10/30 first before I replace the cam and lifters it’s not a loud tick but I notice it more in drive not moving. It might be broken exhaust manifold bolt a shop told me it’s the cam and lifters but that’s what I’m going to confirm myself.
I've told several people to run 5w30 in their Ram 1500 5.7s. The owners manual even says you can in hotter climates. I've ran several of these engines to 200k on 5w30 with zero issues. I'm also a Gen 3 Hemi builder and I've had well over 500 of these apart, and mine with 5w30 were all clean inside. 5w30, 5k religiously intervals.
Spoken like a true engine builder, however, i still do a 2k oil change like there is no filter! Imagine how clean my engine would be if i ever bought anything brand new?
@@J0897 That is why I am soo happy to have bought our Wrangler JK made to order brand spanking new (my first new vehicle). I even asked the dealer to leave it as is as it arrived and they kindly followed my request. It was there in the back of the lot, all original and the dealer let me to take off all the protective plastics. No one has worked on the vehicle since, no one has sat behind the wheel since. I have done everything on the vehicle since, even the car washes. Just sent my oil to a lab for testing, which is a first for me too. 5W30 all the way, despite the (ill) recommend factory 5W20. Some day, I would like to buy another new vehicle, but sadly there is less and less new vehicles that interest me. Anything more than 6-speed auto is out of the question for me, which already excludes (like all???) new vehicles. Also the recent locking of ECM, via Security Gateway Module (SGM) does not sound too encouraging. As if accessing the ECM was not already hard enough. This is just what we 'needed'.
@@wvjeepguy8178 I agree and that is one more thing that I like about the Tacomas. But I heard that sadly 2024 models (maybe even already 2023 models) will be going to move to a 10-speed auto. I hope not. You might be a Tacoma fan and might know more. If so please share. We currently also have a BMW 440i with an 8-speed auto (same as the new Jeeps) and what can I say, we don't like it a bit and exactly the 8-speed auto part of it. It is like driving one of those 50cc motorcycles; you find yourself in 5th gear, while you are still driving at bicycle speeds. I have no idea who likes these auto transmissions with as many speeds like a semi truck. I hear some people find it it sporty. But that is sure not me.
@@mrtopcat2 The 2023 models listed on the site are still showing the 6 speed auto, but i do know they will be going to different transmissions sometimes soon. A transmission isn't going to be inherently worse just because it has more gears. For example, the autos in newer Wranglers are far better than the older autos from just a few years ago. there are already kits to upgrade older wranglers to the newer autos.
I've been been upping the viscosity in all of my engines for years. The 5.7 Hemi loves 5w30 I can attest. Most notable was my recent Jeep Gladiator with the 3.6 and my mother in laws Compass with the 2.4. Both specified to run 0W20. Both were extremely noisy, under all conditions - especially at operating temp. Went to 5w30 in both, and they're silent and smooth sounding with zero loss of fuel economy. All this super thin oil is designed for the CAFE standard, and the measured fuel economy number during their initial test. It is not designed for hopping in, running to the grocery store or towing a trailer uphill - where you would never know the difference. Oil related wear failures are becoming some of the most common, across all brands. Keep your engines alive - up the viscosity.
Did the same to my RAV4. 5W-30 and it doesn’t sound like a sewing machine on start up anymore. 220,000 miles and still driven 166 miles daily from North GA to Marietta GA.
I have a 2019 RAM 4x4 and I typically use 5w-20 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer of full synthetic. Another thing that I found that really helps stop the ticking as much in the beginning is a oil additive (metal penetrant) on top to reduce the wear significantly. From doing research many mechanics have said it is because the oil pressure doesn't allow to reach the top end of the engine, hence the 6.2 hemi engine performance oil pump is the way to go on a 5.7 hemi as it bolts right up and gives more performance volume to get that oil faster on the top end! Yes, the type of oil makes a significant difference as well, no doubt! The hemi engines of today also have problems with heat/thaw on the manifolds to snap bolts, which is very common and recommendations are to change the manifolds out to shorty sport tuned headers. Stainless steel headers heat/thaw at rates closer to the aluminum heads than cast iron! There is a big difference between a good quality header and the cheap ones that are out on the market! The recommendations are to have quality tuned shorty headers from what I have heard from many different mechanics! My wish is for people to take care of what they have and may it last for many years to come! I have not had very many problems with my truck since buying it and am thankful to all the engineers who worked hard with making a quality product as I hear stories out there on many different automakers of what can go wrong and/or will eventually! I changed to quality LED backup lights on my truck also, the cheap ones had resister problems and the new ones seem to by pass those problems that even extend to the key fobs with starting issues. Buy quality when you can, then they should last and perform correctly, lessons learned! Life is an adventure!... Love you brother!
@@stevenhicks815 gotta watch it. I am a huge fan of Lucas products, and am new to hemi's. Not used to mds or anything like that. I did an oil change and only used about a quart of Lucas and got a misfire and the lifter code for reactivation. Changed the oil and have had no issues since. Glad I caught it soon.
Not sure what the reasoning is by switching to 5w20 in winter as the cold viscosity is the same in both 5w20 & 5w30. Both are 5 weight when cold-the 20 and 30 are the viscosity when reaching operating Temps ~200°.
As far as oil additives check out this video and what they have to say, Lake Speed Jr is extremely knowledgeable on engine oil, you can check out his RUclips channel called the motor oil geek - ruclips.net/video/ZBrd3mDvFn8/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 Limited 5.7 Etorque 4X4 at 1,000 miles I changed the oil installed a Pacbrake oil relocation kit and a Valvo max drain plug for no mess oil changes But most important I installed a S17 Kand P Engineering reusable stainless steel mesh oil filter that cleans to 5 microns this is the key advantage 7 TIMES MORE FLOW than a paper filter at hot idle in 85 degree weather I get 35PSI at 95 MPH 45PSI IMO the proper pressure is better than high pressure BUT MAXIMUM FLOW AND CLEAN OIL STOPS WEAR and I have an internal MAGNET to catch all the micro metals. Im about to install a BYPASS Filter to clean down to 1 micron. Flow is the answer I use 0W20 Amsoil I changed the oil again at 5,000 miles and will change again at 10,000 miles currently 8500 and she is quite as can be on cold start or hot idle. CLEAN, GREAT FLOW, MAGNET, BEST OIL AMSOIL SIGNIURE SERIES IMO will make it last I did the same thing on my 15 Longhorn Ecodiesel and had 175,000 miles no motor issues. Diesel Fuel just cost to much and with the Etorque Im at 22MPG on hwy same as the Eco but $1.50/gal less at the pump I put in a tune running 440 HP I enjoy this truck and I enjoy changing the oil now I dont spil a drop. Take care of your truck a long the way and you will have a great life together. I wash the engine every 2 weeks with Griots engine wash looks better than the day I bought it. I'm old man but I like to go fast and listen to that hemi roar HAHA yeah baby. What else am I gonna do I cant dance.
That's really smart, may have to look into doing that myself, but I'm sorry, 22 highway is nowhere close to the Ecodiesel. 4wd Ecodiesels get 30 highway lol
@John flood well the 2015 was the 1st gen Ecodiesel which was a nearly completely different motor, so not the same thing at all lol. 4WD Ecos are rated at 29-30 highway, and I personally know 3 people that average that driving to and from work.
I just tried what you recommended on my 2012 1500 5.7 117,000 miles and I gotta say that it made a big difference, it’s the best my engine has sounded, especially on start up, my idle is smoother as well, thank you for making this video!
The oil filter is small, we have a 392 car it specks a larger oil filter. For some time written on dipstick was Mobil One. My wife's truck started the tick at 30,000 I bought 0w 20 or 30 it's been a while so I know the tick went away. Now that it is getting close to oil change I will try 0 w 30. 0 W oil is not watery, all the Mobil one stays cleaner longer. What a new motor has is break in oil. I do not change my break in oil until at least 3000 miles. Just because a oil may seen thin doesn't make it bad oil. The technology of today's oil especially full synthetic is made to penertrate your vital internal parts . Someone completely drained the oil and put back the drain plug on my son's truck when he parked it for a weekend. On his trip to work the warnings came on and I met him at auto parts store. Leaving filter on it held 7 quarts of oil. Did not leak a drop, and when he parked it there was no warnings like he had lost oil. Well it did manage to spin the main bering. Unfortunately he drove it 10 miles to meet me but I had figured it was shot by that time anyway even if he would have pulled off when warning came on it had gone more than half way. I sold him that truck when he was just old enough to take over payments.i used nothing but Mobil one. He drove it with the knock for a hundred miles to dealerships to trade it in it would not die. My regret was him trading it with all the nice parts I had on it lol He needed to get to dealerships. He bought a 2500 diesel due to pulling a trailer and tax write off. The dealer gave him a fair price it was a 2003 1500 off road Laramie. With any other oil it would not have gone a mile. You have to face it lose all your oil and drive it its gonna break. But it was running at second dearship where he bought at.
0W-20 is still a 20 weight oil. The w after "0" stands for "winter". Meaning it will flow like a 0 wieght during the winter in order to be able to flow and not be too thick. Going from a 20 weight oil to a 30 shouldn't be a big deal.
My 2013 1500 5.7 new to me in 2015 tick went away after switching to Amsoil 5w-30 and keeping it at the top mark on dipstick which actually requires about 1/3 qt more than the 7 qts called for. 155K miles.
I have a 22 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi and I use penzoil ultra platinum 5w 30 also and I use the Boss purolator oil filter! I have no ticking sound at all! I'm staying with the 5w30 oil!
I had the same issues with my jeep with the 3.6. I just had this conversation with co-workers. My father ran 20w50 in everything and said the same. Low viscosity... he never had any issues. I started running 15w50, and it's super quiet now and gets better fuel economy.
Since I bought the truck new (2019 Ram 5.7 non-Etorque), I’ve only used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-20 oil and I have no ticks whatsoever. No noises at all My truck currently has 120,000 miles. I’ve may change it prematurely but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I change it every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. My mechanic says I can go between 7,000 - 10,000 miles, and I believe I can, but it’s more for peace of mind. And I’m ok with that. Truck still running smooth like when I bought it.
HI guys . I have an 2008 Ram 1500 quad cab with around 260.000 kms on odometer . I bought the truck used at 140.000 kms on the odometer . When I bought the truck I immediately took it to my mechanic and had him change every fluid out in the truck . I have always had oil changed a recommended intervals . I have always run recommended weight 5w20 and am in a cooler climate than most . I have always had a little tick in the engine . This worried me quite a bit at first . But after doing a lot of research , I found that the newer hemi's with the eagle heads and non msd were the engines to stay away from . I also found that the older hemi's 2008 and older with mds are actually a better motor and have greater oiling capablities than the newer engines ,2009 and newer. I have been told that there are two types of tick produced by either engine . 2008 and older hemi's with msd will tick and it is a natural effect of the msd system . Newer 2009 and up motors with the eaglr heads were supposed to not tick as the new heads were made to take out the famous tic tic. If the newer eagle head engines start to tiv , it is because the lifters have failed. Usually in the rear of the engine . Just thought to pass this info on.
I purchased my 5.7 1500 new in 2004, currently 350k miles. I remember on my third dealer oilchange they changed from 5 30 to 5 20, on orders from Dodge.
Old post, but I took the advice in the video and changed out the oil at about 800 miles because I was getting tired of hearing the "sewing machine effect" on cold startup. Changed to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w-30, and VOILA, all ticking noises are GONE, I mean, engine is so quiet now. this 0w-20 oil they put in the hemi engines is almost of a pure water consistency. What a change the 5w-30 made. I'm confident this oil will be just fine for the engine.
Have a 2015 hemi ram 144k have run 5w20 the whole time. It’s not the oil it’s idling and part quality issues, you use the oil that reflects the duty cycle and climate you put it through.
I have a 2018 300s 5.7 Hemi that I bought brand new and it had the startup tick from the showroom floor. I think the MDS lifters make the noise, but I'm not positive. The noise always goes away within a few seconds so I never sweat it. I changed the break-in oil at 2000mi and then the next change 3000mi later, both times using Penzoil 5w-20 Platinum synthetic (DEXOS) and a Purolator One filter (as you use). I have always changed oil at 3000mi intervals with my older (10w-30) engines, but I decided to try 5K intervals with this Hemi. For the first full 5000mi fill, I added "Bio Tech" Lubegard oil additive (blue bottle, 16oz), which is thin and does not really increase the viscosity. After 5K with that mixture, I can report the tick is almost completely gone since adding the BioTech and my gas mileage went up slightly and also oil temp increased slightly, indicating better heat absorption in the oil (better cooling of moving parts). I might consider following your lead and using the Platinum Penzoil 5w-30 after the engine gets some more miles on it (only 15K on it now) and see if the gas mileage suffers. I don't like the watery oil myself, but I do run 10w-30 in racing engines where others use SAE40 or 20w-50...
I have a 2011 ram been running 5-20 synthetic since new , changing it every 6,000 has the tick on start up goes away in 30sec, it currently has 300,000 km on it and still going strong , but I’ll give the 5-30 a try🤙
Mine has the tick, but it’s actual lifter failure. Went from 5w-20 to 30 and no difference. Putting in new cams, lifters, timing chain, shorty headers and exhaust in a couple weeks. She will be right!
Just a word of caution. If it’s been running like this for a while. Your cam is probably destroyed and there’s probably metal shavings throughout the engine. I’ve seen engines broken down and the rod bearing , main bearings and cam bearing are destroyed. Maybe cut your oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
@@timg185 it’s already been done months ago. Running like a top, and oil is perfect at every oil change. It was only one lifter that was faulty, and barely. I’m just very aware of noises. Thanks though
I’ve been running 5w30 in multiple 5.7 hemis. With a lot of mileage. They get 5psi better hot idle pressure and absolutely no valve train noise or issues.
The 5.7 runs really hot. Oil temps regularly get to 220 or more just driving on the highway on a regular day. The hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.
Thanks for posting this video! I have changed to 5W-30 in my 2015 Ram 1500 hemi, sounds Great now! No more ticking and clanking sounds. I have 51k miles on it and I tow a toy hauler that is 8300 lbs. Hopefully it will add longevity to the engine. Thanks again!
I used to have the tick in my 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 liter engine. It lasted until my first oil change at about 4500 miles. I asked the RAM dealership what oil to use, and they recommended semi-synthetic 5W-20 and not full synthetic due to possible damage to electronic monitoring sensors in the oil lubrication system. At any rate, I insisted on adding one quart of Lucas Engine Treatment. This obviously increased the oil viscosity, and the tick went away. I now have nearly 40,000 miles on my truck, and it has performed beautifully with no ticks or visible oil use between 4500 mile oil changes. Taking your advice, I plan to switch 5W-30 at my next change and continue with Lucas. My vehicle often sets for a month or longer between use, and the Lucas helps with dry starts versus 5W-20 that is long gone from the upper engine components.
Experienced the exact same thing when I bought my Jeep JK Wrangler new off the lot back in '08. The old-school Chrysler 3.8L pushrod V6 in it was designed back in the 80's and originally ran on 15W30 oil, however by the time in ended up in my Jeep, Chrysler had changed the oil spec to 5W20 in order to meet the government-mandated CAFE targets since slightly better mileage was achieved with the thinner oil. From day one that engine was noisy with rattles, tics and knocks and always felt harsh with notable drivetrain vibrations under load and higher RPMs, and it also burned oil from new (plug fouling was also an issue); these engines in the early JK Jeeps were notorious for these characteristics until they were replaced with the new clean sheet designed 3.6L Pentastar V6 in 2011. Anyway, I started doing my own oil changes on it after a few initial dealer services and switched to a quality 10W40 oil, as I live in a hot climate and just wasn't confident that the thin oil was protecting my engine in the summer (which is why I went for a 40 instead of a 30 weight, as our summer days are often 38C/100F plus). On the first drain I did of the 5W20 myself there was noticeable glitter in the used oil, and it seemed very thin and watery draining out and was jet black. As soon as I started the engine up again on the fresh 10W40 the difference was immediately noticeable; the engine idled quietly without any of the usual tics, knocks & rattles, and when I drove it and gave it some RPMs under load the engine revved freely and was silky smooth and quiet, without any of the harshness and vibration from before. On the next drain there was far less glitter in the used oil, with none whatsoever from then on; 14 years and 130K miles later and the Jeep is still running strong with no engine issues. I suspect that Chrysler's attitude regarding using this super-thin oil in order to achieve their CAFE targets is that as long as the engines make it through the warranty period then all is good, even if the life expectancy for the engine is reduced significantly; what happens after warranty's up just isn't their problem.
Exactly. There is much misinformation out there by people who should know better or frankly actively trying to scare people into using CAFE oils. They argue tighter engines, MDS needs it and alike, but none of that is true. Engines aren't built tighter than they used to be. Part tolerances are smaller, but parts design clearances have been kept the same as decades ago.
I bought a used Suzuki Alto Gen VII a couple of months ago, shortly after getting my driving license. It has around 180,000 km on it, and I live in a Nordic country. I'm fairly certain it had 0W-20 oil in the engine when I got it. Since then, I've driven about 6,000 km. While driving, I’ve occasionally noticed a scratchy feeling through the sound and responsiveness when I press the gas, particularly at speeds around 40-50 km/h. Because of this, I sometimes hesitate to push the gas pedal. It’s not terrible, and maybe I’m just sensitive, but I don’t think any of my friends would notice it. Before owning a car, I used to cycle a lot, maintaining my own bike, and I dislike any form of resistance, so I might be overly attentive to these things. After doing some research, I learned that some people claim an oil change can reduce engine noise and improve smoothness. I watched videos demonstrating the difference in sound before and after an oil change, read the manual, browsed Reddit comments, and even used ChatGPT for advice. Based on my research, I decided to change the oil myself today. (It’s cheaper to do it yourself than pay a mechanic, but of course, this comes with risks, so proceed with caution.) I switched from 0W-20 to 5W-30 using Mobil 1 Advanced oil. It was about 3°C outside, but I figured, why not? I did a cold start and let the engine idle for about a minute while choosing some music. Afterward, I took the car for a test drive. I noticed that the engine runs more smoothly, and there’s less noise, so I assume the oil change helped. If you have any suggestions or recommendations, feel free to share! I’m new to cars, so I’m still learning. Also, I don’t recommend attempting this yourself unless you’re confident or have guidance from a knowledgeable friend or mechanic. Always proceed at your own risk. BTW i used chatgpt to help me write this perfect text, because i couldn't do it without making grammatic mistakes. Also my car menual says that the engine (suzuki alto k10b) can use w5-30 from -30 celsius and above to over 100c, so i think why not. But the w0-20 is better in cold and cold start.
I'm not sure if it has made a difference or not but I've always added 1 liter of diesel spec oil for all my gas engines at oil change and haven't had any issues. And a lifter from an '04 Hemi will fit and work in an '09 and later Eagle Hemi. So no, they weren't specifically designed for the zero weight oil.
For what it's worth Spouse has 14 grand cherokee overland 5.7 hemi with 74,000 miles-has been a great vehicle overall but noticed the hemi tick especially on startup that would settle down soon after startup. I have taken more of a role in maintenance on this vehicle and in addition to full synthetic changes I also add lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer and I feel that it has greatly if not completely cured the tick. Keep in mind I became a believer in the lucas oil stabilizer product when dealing with my civilian H1 HMMWV with the 6.5 turbo diesel. It is not my daily driver and when i would periodically start/use this vehicle there was a noticeable dry start "clack" for a few seconds that drove me nuts but i expected this as it may be weeks or months between use. Since using lucas oil stabilizer in the humvee it can sit 6 months and intial start is smooooth as silk......there is an undeniable difference. Just my experience take it for what its worth but I use it in my kubota diesel as well. appreciate the info and the channel.
Good video ! I have been using 5w/30 for 2 years , since we bought our 2013 ram 5.7 . I also use a quart of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer . Change it before the "recommend" pre set 10k oil change interval . I might try rotella 5w/40 the next time its due for a change .
That Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer works great. I have a 96 5.2L Grand Cherokee. I bought it used with a little less than 150k miles on it. It sat in a garage for a long time...years. I think it had some stuck lifters. I flushed the engine with Seafoam. The valve train seemed to be a little quieter,but it had a shakey idle. A few days later I drained about a quart of oil and added a bottle of Lucas. Within a week, the Valve train quieted down and it runs really well. Been driving it nearly every day for over a year now. Took it on a few long trips. I trust it. I'm pretty sure that some of the lifters were stuck because sometimes the tick would come and go with just regular 10w30 oil. And it always had good oil pressure.
Some companies changed the piston rings to low friction rings when they went to the 0-20. So you think your engine has the standard/original rings? I would figure out how to turn off the MDS system.
The ring pack in an '04 Hemi is identical to the later Eagle head Hemis. Also, my 2018 Power Wagon 6.4 has a spec oil of 0W40. I wouldn't run anything thicker than 5W40 due to the ring pack but I also add 1 liter of Diesel spec 5W40 to my Power Wagon. Been running Hemis since 2004 and no failures but fixed several for other people.
@@raywagner8016 it is my understanding that the 0-40 is superior. 0-40 is a Euro spec. Shell Rotella has a diesel oil that will work in gassers too. It is designed for the smaller European diesels that Ram and Chevy put in their half ton trucks. Bikers use in their high output engines too. I run the Penzzoil 0-40 in my Yamaha four-stroke outboards
@@Cotton088. Yes and that's why I don't have an issue running up to even 5W40 synthetic in any current gas engine. I like to run a little Rotella just because of the EP additive package. It works for me. I've never had any ring related issues. But I also wouldn't consider using an equivalent conventional oil in a light ring engine.
I´v read that such a wide span of Viscosity makes it hard for the oil to STAY IN GRADE! It might be due to the additive package being unable to work as well as with a shorter grade of oil like 5w-30 - 10w-40 - 15w-40
My 2014 hemi ram I bought with 12,000miles now has 118,000 never ticked besides the manifolds been running 5w30 with 1/4 bottle of Lucus oil stabler every 4500-5000 miles
I run the 5w 20 full synthetic but I also run the Lucas oil additive new car formula and engine tik is gone. I have over 60K on my 2019 fifth gen with no issues and been running Lucas additive since 20K. The 5W 30 is absolutely fine but the Lucas additive is thick and does the same thing basically. Good video brother and happy motoring!
I had 2 hemi trucks that had higher milage I used that stuff in, thinking it would help but I got a really bad lifter ticking like almost knocking both times, seems like it gets in the lifters or something and makes them stiick maybe? I Really wouldnt use additives in these engines. just keep the oil really clean, thats just from my experience with lucas
I started using Valvoline 5w 20 and the tick is hardly noticeable. I also used Castro and its was good too. I dont like Pennzoil my truck runs hot and I stay away from that oil.
I'm glad to hear it. My purchased new 2012 RAM Laramie 1500 has 140,000 miles on the HEMI and still purrs like a kitten. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles. Regular oil.
My tick started at about 150,000 miles. Turned out to be a deformed lifter and damaged cam shaft. After pricing out the work to replace the cam and all the lifters, I found that for a a few thousand dollars more I could put a Mopar crate engine in it and have a brand new engine. I’ll definitely do the 5W-30 when I get it back in a few days.
In my 14’ I’ve been running 5w-20 full synthetic since day one and never have valve train noise. I now have a passenger side exhaust manifold to replace causing some cold start up noise but that’s it. I know the heavy duty application of the 5.7L said 5w-30 never personally felt I needed to run it. Worth a shot I guess if you’re hearing noise.
My 6.4 hemi makes noise on the passenger side under the truck and it sounds like exhaust or exhaust manifold noise and it goes away after about 30 seconds. Chrysler replaced the whole bank of lifters and it didn’t make one bit of difference. I have just learned to live with it
@@floydlarken3148 Its broken exhaust manifold bolts, mostly goes away after cold start as the metal manifold swells with heat. After having to weld my broken bolts out of the heads I put a straight edge on the manifolds and found they were warped severely. This is common to all manufacturers according to the vids I've been seeing on youtube. I bought new manifolds and gaskets on amazon, they were china made but were true to the straight edge and no more cold start ticking since. However my HEMI does sound like a rattly diesel when driving, maybe changing to thicker oil will help that.
i got rid of a hemi tick (only on startup) by treating my oil and gas with a can of seafoam after an oil change. stuff made a world of difference as u can actually hear it start working once added to your oil....this probably wont work if yours is very far gone or has been ignored. hope this helps someone
@@petertensuda1192 just changed my oil and I have not heard it at all but I suspect it coming back, 1/3 bottle of seafoam in the oil will be going into this oil change as soon as I get time
I got a 2021 RAM ProMaster last year as Thor Rize was my Camper Van choice. And it ran really good after I put in really good oil, put a K&N air filter and ran Lucas fuel stabilizer in it!!!!
I have the 6.4 in a Challenger. Dodge recommends a 0w-40 for that, Pennzoil. Valvoline makes an oil that meets the spec (FCA Material Standard MS-12633) as does Schaefer. My only worry would be if the car is under warranty. People can run what they want, but if you go too far off the reservation, you may have issues with a claim. FWIW, the owners manual for my car lists 5w-20 for the 5.7 and 5w-30 for the 3.6. I just order the oil off Amazon ahead of time and I use the Mopar 899 filter. I change the oil every 5k miles or 6 months. Mine is a 1320, so it has the 8HP70, it's an auto, so it has MDS.
Hello Would you use 5W30 in your 6.4 Hemi? I would love to try different viscosity in a full synthetic ( Amsoil ) providing better lubrication and stopping tick tick. Pennzoil 0w40 isn’t readily available in stores.
@@josephpuchel6497 Nope. It's under warranty and Amsoil, no matter how good it is, isn't specified. I mean, as long as one uses the right viscosity and API specs, you're pretty much covered, but Dodge does have a specific spec they'd like people to use and there's only 3 companies that make it: Pennzoil, Valvoline and I think Schmitt's. You're going off reservation on two counts. That said, some have said that using the 6.2/hellcat oil pump fixes the problem. The way I look at it, as long as my powertrain is under warranty, I'll use what Dodge recommends as there's nothing for them to back out with if something blows up. I use the oil they recommend and actually change it a little sooner. Another point to look at is that 5W-30 is heavier when cold and lighter at operating temps. Is that really better? Probably not.
@@chrispainter997 And the relevance of that statement? Using heavier oil that specified for a particular engine can be a bad thing and lead to greater wear. In terms of the hemi tick, it's not from a viscosity issue, but oil flow at particular engine speeds and operating conditions and the overall design of the cam/lifters with that in mind. Some have found that the helllcat oil pump helps. It's higher volume. Of course it's your money.
@@nokoolaid The problem with the hemi is, there are no oil journals for the cam. The oil is slung from the oil pan to the cam by the lobes on the crank. From my research, it is recommended to not idle for long periods of time, because unless you’re at roughly 1500 RPMs, you’re not slinging enough oil up there to keep things lubricated. From my experience, that appears to be true due to the fact, we had a lot of cam/lifter issues in the dodge pick ups where I worked due to the trucks idling for long periods of time. When you have a vehicle with long periods of idle time, between oil changes, the oil needs to be changed in hours, not mileage increments. So I don’t see how putting a high flow oil pump on a motor would just pump more oil out of the pan, and limit the amount of oil being able to be slung up to the cam and lifters.
my 2018 6.2 Sierra takes 0w20 and it's like water. I live in a mild climate and have used 5w 20 instead. I've been thinking of going to 5w 30. I also started using Amsoil also.
Just remember if your vehicle is new and under warranty..always use recommended oil weight in owners manual, there goal is try to find ways not to cover it, if they investigate and find wrong oil was used your SOL
you might have a good point ,i never had a thick on my engine but since i went to the last oil change i now have one . thanks for the tip i will look that over ..
Been running Mobil One 5w-20 since the first oil change on my 2009 Ram Sport with the 5.7 HEMI and changed oil religiously every 3000 miles. Never dealt with any ticking at all on the engine and now just over 220K miles. Have always used WIX filters at every oil change. I do add a "motor flush" application before every third or fourth oil change to soften up and remove any sludge/varnish in the journals and cavities to keep the oil flowing smoothly as with all my other vehicles and seems to be working like a charm. The only engine/drivetrain part replaced so far were the alternator and the serpentine belt. I've added a can of B-12 Chemtool to the tank at every other fill-up to keep the fuel system clean since it was new, and never had any starting/stumbling/performance issues at all.
same here with my hemi. pennzoil platinum full synthetic 5w20, wix/xp filters, and 3,000 mile intervals. i think there’s a case to be made for switching to 5w30 or 5w40 but i think playing around with oil viscosity is a dangerous game. simply using the best oil and filters as well as maintaining strict service intervals matters a lot more.
Sounds like you only needed a bit of oil stabilizer, that way you keep the oil circulation speed, and also getting rid of the tick and a bunch of other issues old stabilizer cures.
The issue is not the lifter. This has been brought up many times. One person talk about camshafts failure like failed heat treatment than flake off the lobe into the lifter. Your idea is spot on if that roller is finds a thin spot on a lobe the roller could go through and tick. Sound advice in this video
Us "older" guys have known to throw a tid-bit thicker oil in cars that tick for a lot of moons. Unscrupulous sellers still do it to cover up issues. And, to all the people saying the oil makes or breaks "2 mpgs" ... show me. No way it impacts mpg that much. Happy Saturday.
I’ve got an Acura TL, J35 engine. Same thing, older J35’s and some other countries state 5w-30, but US owners manual states 0w-20. I do run 0w-20 Dec-Feb, but run 5w-30 the rest of the year.
Thanks for the video. My go to is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Purolator Boss filter. If not Ultra Platinum i try to get Valvoline Extended Protection or Restore and Protect. I have a fleet of about 10 vehicles and try to change oil every 5k miles.
Same thing with my kia hybrid. 1.6 4cyl turbo they want 0w-20. Has valve clatter. Switched to 5w-30 and all gone. Plus you'd think with a small turbo engine with higher pressures and temps you'd want the 5w-30 standard.
This is problematic on your car because it's a hybrid. You want thin oil on a hybrid because it's going to do a lot of cold starts. You're prematurely wearing your engine using the heavy oil. Also don't use aftermarket oil filters on those Kias. Only use OEM filters from the dealer. I don't know why, but in my experience Hyundai/Kia products with aftermarket filters produces top end noise. Every time I buy one I put the OEM filter on them, the noise goes away
I've always used synthetic oil in my hemi trucks. My 04 has never ticked, still doesn't. My 2012 had no tick, except for snapped exhaust manifold bolts. My 2021 has 5w20 as recommended oil I believe. 0w20 oil should, in theory, bring lubrication to the lifter valley faster on cold starts than 5w30. Synthetic oil is by far the way to go, no matter what. I do know that the newer hemi motors (09+) have higher compression and the heads flow better than 03-08 hemi engines. Maybe that has something to do with the 0w20 recommended oil??
@@crunklescrunkles4425 I have the Laramie edition. Leather, 4 door, 20" Rims, DVD player, amplifier, All wheel drive with high range and low range. Bought it cheap- put a few hundred dollars in parts in it and am happy with it.
My 21' ram has been getting 5w20 since i bought it new and performed the "engine break in". I just got an oil change of full syn and noticed a change. Turns out they put in 5w30. The truck feels like the oil temp is at 45 degrees when its ar 200. It seems to have to work a bit harder and i notice it downshifts sooner (mds on or off). Im not liking this and will go back to 5w20 asap. And no ticking ever noticed with 5w20. Just my 2 cents.
I've read in the technical service bulletins that the heaviest oil you can use is 5W-20 oil in order for the MDS system to function properly. The Hemi in my 2017 Longhorn was a little noisy so I thought I would try 5W-30 synthetic oil in it. MDS functions exactly the same as it did with 5W-20 synthetic oil in it. Even when the oil has not fully warmed up the MDS system functions as before. I'm even tempted to try full synthetic 10W-30 oil in it to see how that works. Have been using Pennzoil Platinum for years. 0W-20 is way too light for summer driving in my mind.
The solution is upgrading the oil pump. Yes putting good oil helps to maintain the engine nice and healthy cause good lubricants and stuff but changing the oil pump to an upgraded or from the hellcat model
The Wix and Purolator oil filters do a great job of filtering. However, they can be too restrictive for the Hemi engine do to the lifters being so high up. You need instant flow especially in cold weather months. I use a K&N filter for two reasons. 1 it's less restrictive but still filters well. 2 it has a welded on 1" nut on the bottom for easy removal. Most any new filter will allow good flow for a while but when they begin to get dirty the tic will be back.
I was told Boss by purolator is the way to go especially for price but wondering if theyre too restrictive also…which K and N model do you use. I do Purolator Boss every 6k miles with Penzoil Ultra Plat. Or the gold label advanced synthetic from Valvoline…if the pureolator is good for 10-15k like it says (which id never go over 6500 with any filter or oil anyway) i wonder if flow is a non issue if im doing 6k interval changes?
K&N performance gold and mobile 1 extended performance the two best high flowing oil filters Engine masters k&n was the best of the spin on type with mobile 1 not in there test in other test on RUclips mobile 1 extended performance oil filter beat k&n used k&n gold last 2 oil changes this one I’m using the mobile 1 and it was a few bucks cheaper 2
My hemi has never had a tick.. Always Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge EP 0W-20, in winter I run a VW 508/509 spec oil. I did run a boron additive after break in that likely helped. 🤷♂
I believe the startup tick is caused by the Mopar filter. I’ve owned three Hemi’s and they rarely have a lifter tick on startup after sitting for up to a few days. I bought two 2019 5.7 Hemi Rams and they both had lifter tick at startup a couple times a week. After I switched to Mobil 1 or K&N oil filters on the first oil change the startup tick went away. I think Mopar filters have a leaky anti drain valve. I use 5w20 Full Synthetic with no tick. Sold my 2012 at 175k with no tick. Still ran perfectly. I have used many brands of oil with similar results.
Interesting. I've always used the MOPAR filter on mine. I'll try the Purolator or the WIX and see how they do. My 2016 has always had 5W20 synthetic. I'm going to try the 5W30 as well.
I’d be more inclined to believe it was the filter as well, but to be sure I’d have said stay with moparfilter and try Mobil 1 synthetic 0w20 again, because essentially he changed two variables here where the tick vanished, the filter and the oil at the same time.
I have had the startup tick with both Mopar as well as Napa Platinum oil filters. But it is not really doing that very often. Trying K&N now. We'll see what happens.
Hi .. my 392 2020 Challenger ScatPack HEMI ticks from the first day … and then I use 10w60 Castrol … the ticking is gone …. runs great very often full speed on German Autobahn… I use it for years in all my cars …also in my 2007 Audi A6 3,0 TDI ( Diesel) … , 1,8t New Beetle and in my IROC Camaro… Greeting from Germany
I only put 5w-20 AMSOIL XL with a Royal Purple filter in my wife’s 2017 Durango R/T. It has 85k miles on it now and has never had a tick. Quality full synthetic oil and a good filter make all the difference in the world
My truck had the same issue with the 5.7 Hemi. It had 23km on the odometer and once in a while an odd ticking at startup that goes away after couple seconds. I've isolated it to the drain back valve in the stock Mopar filter. They are probably cheap and break often. I had the oil and filter changed and the problem seems gone. I wouldn't put 5W30 as the manual says to put 5w20 and this is what is certified to run into the truck. Hemis have trouble at getting enough oil at idle. I don't think you want to put in there a type with higher viscosity ... probably would get an even harder time getting oil on the top if you do. Even though it sticks more.
I have 2021 2500 6.4. It’s done it since day one. The 0w40 can’t be good for it. I’ve been thinking of switching anyway. Glad to hear yours is cured. You are right about the first change. It looked like water. Does your sounds like it’s gargling rocks when it goes into eco mode? Ill hit the tow/haul button to shut it up sometimes
My 6.4 hemi in a 2019 Challenger without MDS (manual transmission) had a really loud tick at only 2500 miles. I noticed the same thing when draining out the original 0w40 synthetic that it looked like water. I visualized it all running back to the pan as soon as you shut engine off. Since then, I've been adding a bottle of STP oil treatment to it when I change the oil. The idea I thought might help is that it adds some "stickiness" to the oil and allow it to have a film of oil cling to the parts. It's been running quiet ever since with no other issues.
I use valvoline 5w20 plus stp oil treatment. Think it’s a blue bottle but the fluid is thick! Anyway yeah it helps tremendously with the rattling ticking bullshit.
@@ernestoyorba7813 I'm still running 0w40 for now because I already had it, but now I'm thinking about using 5w40 next time I change it... Just regular STP oil treatment is what I'm using. STP has worked great in many of my old worn-out classic cars for years keeping them on the road, reduces blow-by and oil consumption, and keeps engines quiet.
Thank you for the advice. I run Royal Purple 5w-20 and might switch to 5w-30, especially if I run it harder. By the way, both weights from Royal Purple meet the 5.7 oil spec, Ms-6395. Thanks again.
Most Hemi’s have there own sound and a certain sound of lifter noise. I do use synthetic oil Pennzoil. No issue yet but I have 5W-20. I live in a very cold winter climate in 🇨🇦. 5w30 should work here I think but scared to try it. Maybe after my warranty is over I shall try it. 👍
I would run the 5/30 in warm summer months and then a little thinner for cold winter months. That was a common thing we did at a garage I worked at in 1980 with various brands and years of vehicles. The tolerances weren’t quite as slim then however the heavier oil viscosity on very cold days had gas engines hammering like diesels for easily 15 to 30 seconds while the pump tried to push dam near grease viscosity liquid through the oil journals. I have an original 1968 Dodge engine in my garage that’s never been rebuilt, doesn’t smoke or hammer. It was treated to the seasonal variety oil changes. Thinner winter, thicker summer.
2012 owners manual:
"NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine must use
SAE 5W-20 oil. Failure to do so may result in improper
operation of the Multi-Displacement System (MDS)."
2014 owners manual:
"NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to
Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when
SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available"
2016 owners manual:
"MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material
Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or
equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures."
2022 owners manual:
"We recommend using Mopar® SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer Material Standard MS-6395. Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-20 engine oil can be used but must have the API Starburst trademark
NOTE: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer."
So with the EXACT SAME engine with MDS, we went from "you MUST use 20 weight oil" to "it's OK to use 30 weight" to "we recommend even thinner 0W20 weight" and then finally they admitted that the watery 20 weight oils cause ticking because the viscosity is too thin and the lifters bleed down too fast, plus there is improper lubrication.
I've been saying it for years. And you can look at the 3.6 Pentastar as proof. That motor started using 5W30 when it was released in 2009. Very few lifter/cam failures. In 2014 they went to 5W20, we saw an uptick in lifter/cam failures. In 2017/2018 they switched to 0W20 and lifter/cam failures became common. I'm no rocket surgeon, but it doesn't take a PhD to correlate the reduction in viscosity with the increase in failures. I ran Redline 5W30 in my 2013 and 2017 5.7 Hemi's without issue, and run it in my 2012 and 2021 Wrangler/Gladiator without issue. I run Redline 5W40 in my 6.4 without issue. Those thinner oils aren't being used for anything other than FCA chasing a fraction of a percent better fleetwide fuel economy ratings.
I could care less about that MDS system operating, it's annoying kicking in and out and sounds like crap. I turn it off with the manual shift buttons every time I drive, I don't calculate a difference in fuel economy at all.
@@watchman11000 yea i hated it so i got a tune that can turn that on and off, really sounds like shit with a aftermarket exhaust too
Honestly your understanding of motor oils is very off. The 0W20 will be the same or more "thickness" as 5W30 in use. This is because 0W20 shears a lot less because it has a combination of better base stocks and less viscosity improvers. Also the difference between a SAE 30 and SAE 20 is about the width of a human hair. This is also why you can use a 5W30 without issue because the width of a human hair makes no difference.
@@davidporter7051 I was always told that the second number was the weight AFTER the additives. So once that's gone your down to the first number, 0, 5, 10 etc. Thats why when you first ran a Model T you used Vegetable oil, but by the time it was a junker, the clearances and tolerances were so bad you could have run maple syrup. Obviously tech has changed over the last 120+ years. But the thinner the oil, the less affective oil pressure you have in the system, to create the barrier to save the parts from wear, due to it being so freely moving in the system. Now, throw in some cold temps, maybe a Canada winter and we have a whole new ball of wax to discuss/argue/speculate on who's right or wrong.
Running 0w20 means the tolerances are supper tight for the rod bearings etc but is the oil pump the same in all these engines of the last decade? Whats the oil pressure at idle vs under load? and was it enough to pump it to the top side of the engine to keep the lifters happy.
I have the 392 and it had the HEMI tick... I remembered this video so much appreciated. I went with 5w40 full synthetic - the manufacuer recommends 0w40 and wow its gone. I cant believe how much smoother the engine sounds, purrs like a kitten...the tick instantly went away = total win.
This is what I was looking for cause I too have the 6.4. Was getting concerned about that tick. Truck had 30k miles on it when I bought it. I’m at 34k now and wanted to change oil to see if it went away or not. Thanks
How is 5w 40 full synthetic holding up
@@MR250K Perfectly....
@@warmeds2009I have a 19 5.7 with a tick. I think I’m going to try a thicker weight oil (possibly what you went with)
Have you noticed any crazy oil pressure numbers??
@@hunterheideman6417 Absolutely no change in pressure or performance. My jeep has about 35,000 miles on it now and still no tick..
Took your advice, 5w-30 full synthetic. Engine runs smooth and quiet, no tick even after sitting for a week on cold start. This is great 👍
I'm gonna have to switch 5w-30 myself. 2013 ram 1500 5.7l 106k miles
@@RudeRaptor Give it a go, can't hurt.
I just bought a 5.7L Hemi with 99k miles gonna try this 5-w30 full synthetic.....GoMangoKitty did this fix you're tik issues situation?
@@conative598have you tried it yet? I’m having the same problem on my 19 ram 41k miles. Driving me insane 😩
@m3ttro660 did you change the oil? Did it do anything?
Thanks a Lot man, I had a tick noise in my 2014 Hemi dodge ram so I fond your video and I change the oil to 5w30 and the Hemi tick is GONE ! .... Respect from Saudi Ariba.
I thought in hot countries they run straight SAE 30. -- 0W20 is for very cold weather places.
In Singapore they run SAE 30 even in Toyota Prius.
@@somap8380 In Saudi Arabia the dealer run 5w20 full synthetic mopar oil.
I agree 100% with this from my own experience. Bought my Ram and noticed the ticking symphony at start up. I then switched to Amsoil 5W-30 and Wix filter. The ticking symphony quit and went away immediately. Just run 5W-30 and a filter that flows well.
Hey guys auto tech here currently for dodge and worked a little bit for gm
You are spot on sir
All vehicles with the 0w-20 weight and 5w-20 weight
That weight is too thin
Helps give these new vehicles a couple extra miles per gallon but reliability goes way down
After talking to some guys who’ve been doing it longer than I’ve been alive and in combination with my own experience
If you switch to a thicker weight 5w30 or 10w30
You’ll lose a couple extra miles per gallon however the extra thickness really helps coat that cam and the lifters
Just thought I’d chime in you were spot on with your video
Yeah, the thinner oil is all about better fuel economy. Back in the day 10W40 and 20W50 were what we ran, especially in older V-8 muscle cars.
@@scottcpan68 what’s really insane is that if they didn’t have the active fuel management (afm) or if deleted and ran the thicker oil
I would be out of a job
These cars are actually made very well and borderline bullet proof what’s screwing everything up is the emission laws being passed by legislation.
I have plenty of friends who again have done this a while
Built their own race cars
Hell they’ve forgot more about cars than I could ever know
And even they agree with that statement
Take away the afm bs and you got yourself a bullet proof machine
Hemi engine do not like anything over 10-30 because it’s starts to restric in the passages and so forth exspecially in order gums up engines ! Also a Mopar tech been building Mopar for years !! Drag racer/builder
Exactly. I ve been saying this for years. The thinner oil nowadays is all for better fuel economy. Also, newer engines have a higher oil capacity than years ago. Probably cause the thinner oil burns easily and having an extra quart or two in the bigger oil pan helps keep it lubricated. I remember 4 cyl engines from the 80s tool 3.5- 4 qts
. Now they are up to 6 qts in some brands.
I have a 2011 5.7 Hemi 180,000 miles I’m going to try 5/30 or 10/30 first before I replace the cam and lifters it’s not a loud tick but I notice it more in drive not moving. It might be broken exhaust manifold bolt a shop told me it’s the cam and lifters but that’s what I’m going to confirm myself.
Thank you for this video bud! This worked like a charm! No more ticking sound and the engine sounds great!!
I've told several people to run 5w30 in their Ram 1500 5.7s. The owners manual even says you can in hotter climates. I've ran several of these engines to 200k on 5w30 with zero issues. I'm also a Gen 3 Hemi builder and I've had well over 500 of these apart, and mine with 5w30 were all clean inside. 5w30, 5k religiously intervals.
Spoken like a true engine builder, however, i still do a 2k oil change like there is no filter! Imagine how clean my engine would be if i ever bought anything brand new?
@@J0897 That is why I am soo happy to have bought our Wrangler JK made to order brand spanking new (my first new vehicle). I even asked the dealer to leave it as is as it arrived and they kindly followed my request. It was there in the back of the lot, all original and the dealer let me to take off all the protective plastics. No one has worked on the vehicle since, no one has sat behind the wheel since. I have done everything on the vehicle since, even the car washes. Just sent my oil to a lab for testing, which is a first for me too. 5W30 all the way, despite the (ill) recommend factory 5W20.
Some day, I would like to buy another new vehicle, but sadly there is less and less new vehicles that interest me. Anything more than 6-speed auto is out of the question for me, which already excludes (like all???) new vehicles. Also the recent locking of ECM, via Security Gateway Module (SGM) does not sound too encouraging. As if accessing the ECM was not already hard enough. This is just what we 'needed'.
@@mrtopcat2 Tacomas are still running a 6 speed auto for now.
@@wvjeepguy8178 I agree and that is one more thing that I like about the Tacomas. But I heard that sadly 2024 models (maybe even already 2023 models) will be going to move to a 10-speed auto. I hope not. You might be a Tacoma fan and might know more. If so please share.
We currently also have a BMW 440i with an 8-speed auto (same as the new Jeeps) and what can I say, we don't like it a bit and exactly the 8-speed auto part of it. It is like driving one of those 50cc motorcycles; you find yourself in 5th gear, while you are still driving at bicycle speeds. I have no idea who likes these auto transmissions with as many speeds like a semi truck. I hear some people find it it sporty. But that is sure not me.
@@mrtopcat2 The 2023 models listed on the site are still showing the 6 speed auto, but i do know they will be going to different transmissions sometimes soon.
A transmission isn't going to be inherently worse just because it has more gears. For example, the autos in newer Wranglers are far better than the older autos from just a few years ago. there are already kits to upgrade older wranglers to the newer autos.
I've been been upping the viscosity in all of my engines for years. The 5.7 Hemi loves 5w30 I can attest. Most notable was my recent Jeep Gladiator with the 3.6 and my mother in laws Compass with the 2.4. Both specified to run 0W20. Both were extremely noisy, under all conditions - especially at operating temp. Went to 5w30 in both, and they're silent and smooth sounding with zero loss of fuel economy.
All this super thin oil is designed for the CAFE standard, and the measured fuel economy number during their initial test. It is not designed for hopping in, running to the grocery store or towing a trailer uphill - where you would never know the difference. Oil related wear failures are becoming some of the most common, across all brands.
Keep your engines alive - up the viscosity.
Switched my wife’s RAV to 5-30 high mileage and it cut oil consumption to 1 qt every 2000 miles.
My 3.6 in wrangler would tick. Put in 5w20 pennzoil platinum. What Jeep recommends. Tick is gone.
Did the same to my RAV4. 5W-30 and it doesn’t sound like a sewing machine on start up anymore. 220,000 miles and still driven 166 miles daily from North GA to Marietta GA.
Just out of curiosity how many miles on that 5.7 and have you had any cam and lifter issues.
I have a 2019 RAM 4x4 and I typically use 5w-20 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer of full synthetic. Another thing that I found that really helps stop the ticking as much in the beginning is a oil additive (metal penetrant) on top to reduce the wear significantly. From doing research many mechanics have said it is because the oil pressure doesn't allow to reach the top end of the engine, hence the 6.2 hemi engine performance oil pump is the way to go on a 5.7 hemi as it bolts right up and gives more performance volume to get that oil faster on the top end! Yes, the type of oil makes a significant difference as well, no doubt!
The hemi engines of today also have problems with heat/thaw on the manifolds to snap bolts, which is very common and recommendations are to change the manifolds out to shorty sport tuned headers. Stainless steel headers heat/thaw at rates closer to the aluminum heads than cast iron! There is a big difference between a good quality header and the cheap ones that are out on the market! The recommendations are to have quality tuned shorty headers from what I have heard from many different mechanics!
My wish is for people to take care of what they have and may it last for many years to come! I have not had very many problems with my truck since buying it and am thankful to all the engineers who worked hard with making a quality product as I hear stories out there on many different automakers of what can go wrong and/or will eventually! I changed to quality LED backup lights on my truck also, the cheap ones had resister problems and the new ones seem to by pass those problems that even extend to the key fobs with starting issues. Buy quality when you can, then they should last and perform correctly, lessons learned! Life is an adventure!... Love you brother!
Like maybe some Lucas oil when you change oil?
@@stevenhicks815 gotta watch it. I am a huge fan of Lucas products, and am new to hemi's. Not used to mds or anything like that. I did an oil change and only used about a quart of Lucas and got a misfire and the lifter code for reactivation. Changed the oil and have had no issues since. Glad I caught it soon.
@@BigHRepair so Lucas oil caused problems you think?
Not sure what the reasoning is by switching to 5w20 in winter as the cold viscosity is the same in both 5w20 & 5w30. Both are 5 weight when cold-the 20 and 30 are the viscosity when reaching operating Temps ~200°.
As far as oil additives check out this video and what they have to say, Lake Speed Jr is extremely knowledgeable on engine oil, you can check out his RUclips channel called the motor oil geek - ruclips.net/video/ZBrd3mDvFn8/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 Limited 5.7 Etorque 4X4 at 1,000 miles I changed the oil installed a Pacbrake oil relocation kit and a Valvo max drain plug for no mess oil changes But most important I installed a S17 Kand P Engineering reusable stainless steel mesh oil filter that cleans to 5 microns this is the key advantage 7 TIMES MORE FLOW than a paper filter at hot idle in 85 degree weather I get 35PSI at 95 MPH 45PSI IMO the proper pressure is better than high pressure BUT MAXIMUM FLOW AND CLEAN OIL STOPS WEAR and I have an internal MAGNET to catch all the micro metals. Im about to install a BYPASS Filter to clean down to 1 micron. Flow is the answer I use 0W20 Amsoil I changed the oil again at 5,000 miles and will change again at 10,000 miles currently 8500 and she is quite as can be on cold start or hot idle. CLEAN, GREAT FLOW, MAGNET, BEST OIL AMSOIL SIGNIURE SERIES IMO will make it last I did the same thing on my 15 Longhorn Ecodiesel and had 175,000 miles no motor issues. Diesel Fuel just cost to much and with the Etorque Im at 22MPG on hwy same as the Eco but $1.50/gal less at the pump I put in a tune running 440 HP I enjoy this truck and I enjoy changing the oil now I dont spil a drop. Take care of your truck a long the way and you will have a great life together. I wash the engine every 2 weeks with Griots engine wash looks better than the day I bought it. I'm old man but I like to go fast and listen to that hemi roar HAHA yeah baby. What else am I gonna do I cant dance.
Can you post a video of your tuned hemi etorque and what type of tuner did you do?
That's really smart, may have to look into doing that myself, but I'm sorry, 22 highway is nowhere close to the Ecodiesel. 4wd Ecodiesels get 30 highway lol
@@treyroberts8124 I had a 2015 Ram 1500 Eco for 7 years and never got close to 30MPG 22 max I get 24MPG with my 22 Hemi
@John flood well the 2015 was the 1st gen Ecodiesel which was a nearly completely different motor, so not the same thing at all lol. 4WD Ecos are rated at 29-30 highway, and I personally know 3 people that average that driving to and from work.
Should have fired-up the engine while recording so the audience could hear it for themselves.
Yes..
Update. I am now 15k miles since I took your advice and it does run much quieter. Thank you!!!
I just tried what you recommended on my 2012 1500 5.7 117,000 miles and I gotta say that it made a big difference, it’s the best my engine has sounded, especially on start up, my idle is smoother as well, thank you for making this video!
The oil filter is small, we have a 392 car it specks a larger oil filter.
For some time written on dipstick was Mobil One.
My wife's truck started the tick at 30,000 I bought 0w 20 or 30 it's been a while so I know the tick went away.
Now that it is getting close to oil change I will try 0 w 30.
0 W oil is not watery, all the Mobil one stays cleaner longer.
What a new motor has is break in oil.
I do not change my break in oil until at least 3000 miles.
Just because a oil may seen thin doesn't make it bad oil.
The technology of today's oil especially full synthetic is made to penertrate your vital internal parts .
Someone completely drained the oil and put back the drain plug on my son's truck when he parked it for a weekend.
On his trip to work the warnings came on and I met him at auto parts store.
Leaving filter on it held 7 quarts of oil.
Did not leak a drop, and when he parked it there was no warnings like he had lost oil.
Well it did manage to spin the main bering.
Unfortunately he drove it 10 miles to meet me but I had figured it was shot by that time anyway even if he would have pulled off when warning came on it had gone more than half way.
I sold him that truck when he was just old enough to take over payments.i used nothing but Mobil one. He drove it with the knock for a hundred miles to dealerships to trade it in it would not die.
My regret was him trading it with all the nice parts I had on it lol
He needed to get to dealerships. He bought a 2500 diesel due to pulling a trailer and tax write off. The dealer gave him a fair price it was a 2003 1500 off road Laramie.
With any other oil it would not have gone a mile.
You have to face it lose all your oil and drive it its gonna break.
But it was running at second dearship where he bought at.
@@1234tellmewhatyourlookingfor
What the hell is this grammar? My god man. Even your own account name has a spelling error in it.
0W-20 is still a 20 weight oil. The w after "0" stands for "winter". Meaning it will flow like a 0 wieght during the winter in order to be able to flow and not be too thick. Going from a 20 weight oil to a 30 shouldn't be a big deal.
@@Jay-js5ikhey Karen..act like a man..we here to talk about engines not hear some drama queen mag about grammar...
My 2013 1500 5.7 new to me in 2015 tick went away after switching to Amsoil 5w-30 and keeping it at the top mark on dipstick which actually requires about 1/3 qt more than the 7 qts called for. 155K miles.
Yup same here
Kudos for knowing the difference between a price points and quality.
Very very glad I took the time to watch this, thank you sir!
I have a 22 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi and I use penzoil ultra platinum 5w 30 also and I use the Boss purolator oil filter! I have no ticking sound at all! I'm staying with the 5w30 oil!
I believe starting the engine would have been very positive and serve as further proof of the engine running better,thank you for the video.
Hey can we hear the sound of your engine? Cold start and up close and personal.
I had the same issues with my jeep with the 3.6. I just had this conversation with co-workers. My father ran 20w50 in everything and said the same. Low viscosity... he never had any issues. I started running 15w50, and it's super quiet now and gets better fuel economy.
Thank You Sir, very mucn!! I"m picking up my 2019 ram 1500 at a dealership here in Canada on Fri. And it definitley has then ticking sound. Thanks
Can you do a follow up video on the engine with 5:30 weight. Hows the engine doing
Since I bought the truck new (2019 Ram 5.7 non-Etorque), I’ve only used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-20 oil and I have no ticks whatsoever. No noises at all My truck currently has 120,000 miles. I’ve may change it prematurely but I’d rather be safe than sorry. I change it every 5,000 - 6,000 miles. My mechanic says I can go between 7,000 - 10,000 miles, and I believe I can, but it’s more for peace of mind. And I’m ok with that. Truck still running smooth like when I bought it.
It will tick eventually, when it does just pop the cover off and tighten the lifters half a turn. I've done it many times.
You have a unicorn sir
@hunterheideman6417 nah
@hunterheideman6417 I have a 2012 5.7 with 410,000 all original no tick, original Trans too.
HI guys . I have an 2008 Ram 1500 quad cab with around 260.000 kms on odometer . I bought the truck used at 140.000 kms on the odometer . When I bought the truck I immediately took it to my mechanic and had him change every fluid out in the truck . I have always had oil changed a recommended intervals . I have always run recommended weight 5w20 and am in a cooler climate than most . I have always had a little tick in the engine . This worried me quite a bit at first . But after doing a lot of research , I found that the newer hemi's with the eagle heads and non msd were the engines to stay away from . I also found that the older hemi's 2008 and older with mds are actually a better motor and have greater oiling capablities than the newer engines ,2009 and newer. I have been told that there are two types of tick produced by either engine . 2008 and older hemi's with msd will tick and it is a natural effect of the msd system . Newer 2009 and up motors with the eaglr heads were supposed to not tick as the new heads were made to take out the famous tic tic. If the newer eagle head engines start to tiv , it is because the lifters have failed. Usually in the rear of the engine . Just thought to pass this info on.
I purchased my 5.7 1500 new in 2004, currently 350k miles. I remember on my third dealer oilchange they changed from 5 30 to 5 20, on orders from Dodge.
I switched to valvoline oil the same weight 5w20 as i had been useing and the hemi tick quit just by useing valvoline
Old post, but I took the advice in the video and changed out the oil at about 800 miles because I was getting tired of hearing the "sewing machine effect" on cold startup. Changed to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w-30, and VOILA, all ticking noises are GONE, I mean, engine is so quiet now. this 0w-20 oil they put in the hemi engines is almost of a pure water consistency. What a change the 5w-30 made. I'm confident this oil will be just fine for the engine.
That's exactly what it is. Slightly thicker oil is what will get rid of the little ticking sound
I also tried this, changed to 5w-30 last night and my tick is also gone! Should of done this along time ago! THX!!!!!
Have a 2015 hemi ram 144k have run 5w20 the whole time. It’s not the oil it’s idling and part quality issues, you use the oil that reflects the duty cycle and climate you put it through.
I have a 2018 300s 5.7 Hemi that I bought brand new and it had the startup tick from the showroom floor. I think the MDS lifters make the noise, but I'm not positive. The noise always goes away within a few seconds so I never sweat it. I changed the break-in oil at 2000mi and then the next change 3000mi later, both times using Penzoil 5w-20 Platinum synthetic (DEXOS) and a Purolator One filter (as you use). I have always changed oil at 3000mi intervals with my older (10w-30) engines, but I decided to try 5K intervals with this Hemi. For the first full 5000mi fill, I added "Bio Tech" Lubegard oil additive (blue bottle, 16oz), which is thin and does not really increase the viscosity. After 5K with that mixture, I can report the tick is almost completely gone since adding the BioTech and my gas mileage went up slightly and also oil temp increased slightly, indicating better heat absorption in the oil (better cooling of moving parts). I might consider following your lead and using the Platinum Penzoil 5w-30 after the engine gets some more miles on it (only 15K on it now) and see if the gas mileage suffers. I don't like the watery oil myself, but I do run 10w-30 in racing engines where others use SAE40 or 20w-50...
The oil temperature increases with increasing viscosity - always as the pressure increases.
You’re correct same thing happened to me and they kept saying high mileage oil! I put full synthetic 5-30 and no more ticking
I have a 2011 ram been running 5-20 synthetic since new , changing it every 6,000 has the tick on start up goes away in 30sec, it currently has 300,000 km on it and still going strong , but I’ll give the 5-30 a try🤙
Sounds like your manifold bolts. We all have it the bolts break 100 percent
Exactly what I did on my 5.7. Full synthetic but I’m using 5w 20 , no tick no nothing.. good video..
Mine has the tick, but it’s actual lifter failure. Went from 5w-20 to 30 and no difference. Putting in new cams, lifters, timing chain, shorty headers and exhaust in a couple weeks. She will be right!
I hear if you bolt on a hellcat oil pump it fixes it. It runs at a higher oil pressure. Keeps the lifters lubricated at idle.
@@jamiedinkins8593 I have heard the same from another hemi mechanic here on RUclips.
Just a word of caution. If it’s been running like this for a while. Your cam is probably destroyed and there’s probably metal shavings throughout the engine. I’ve seen engines broken down and the rod bearing , main bearings and cam bearing are destroyed. Maybe cut your oil filter open and see how much metal is in there.
@@timg185 it’s already been done months ago. Running like a top, and oil is perfect at every oil change. It was only one lifter that was faulty, and barely. I’m just very aware of noises. Thanks though
@@JB.Olsen7 👍
How about a 1 yr follow-up video?
I’ve been running 5w30 in multiple 5.7 hemis. With a lot of mileage. They get 5psi better hot idle pressure and absolutely no valve train noise or issues.
Wow! 5 psi more?
Interesting. Better sealing oil I guess
The 5.7 runs really hot. Oil temps regularly get to 220 or more just driving on the highway on a regular day. The hotter the oil gets the thinner it gets.
Thanks for posting this video! I have changed to 5W-30 in my 2015 Ram 1500 hemi, sounds Great now! No more ticking and clanking sounds.
I have 51k miles on it and I tow a toy hauler that is 8300 lbs. Hopefully it will add longevity to the engine.
Thanks again!
Thank you. You just answered 3 questions I have been seeking the answers for awhile.
I use 6 1/2 quarts of 5W-20 Full Synthetic Castrol Edge Titanium Oil and STP Synthetic Oil Treatment (15 oz.) and no ticking whatsoever.
I used to have the tick in my 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 liter engine. It lasted until my first oil change at about 4500 miles. I asked the RAM dealership what oil to use, and they recommended semi-synthetic 5W-20 and not full synthetic due to possible damage to electronic monitoring sensors in the oil lubrication system.
At any rate, I insisted on adding one quart of Lucas Engine Treatment. This obviously increased the oil viscosity, and the tick went away. I now have nearly 40,000 miles on my truck, and it has performed beautifully with no ticks or visible oil use between 4500 mile oil changes. Taking your advice, I plan to switch 5W-30 at my next change and continue with Lucas. My vehicle often sets for a month or longer between use, and the Lucas helps with dry starts versus 5W-20 that is long gone from the upper engine components.
Experienced the exact same thing when I bought my Jeep JK Wrangler new off the lot back in '08. The old-school Chrysler 3.8L pushrod V6 in it was designed back in the 80's and originally ran on 15W30 oil, however by the time in ended up in my Jeep, Chrysler had changed the oil spec to 5W20 in order to meet the government-mandated CAFE targets since slightly better mileage was achieved with the thinner oil. From day one that engine was noisy with rattles, tics and knocks and always felt harsh with notable drivetrain vibrations under load and higher RPMs, and it also burned oil from new (plug fouling was also an issue); these engines in the early JK Jeeps were notorious for these characteristics until they were replaced with the new clean sheet designed 3.6L Pentastar V6 in 2011.
Anyway, I started doing my own oil changes on it after a few initial dealer services and switched to a quality 10W40 oil, as I live in a hot climate and just wasn't confident that the thin oil was protecting my engine in the summer (which is why I went for a 40 instead of a 30 weight, as our summer days are often 38C/100F plus). On the first drain I did of the 5W20 myself there was noticeable glitter in the used oil, and it seemed very thin and watery draining out and was jet black. As soon as I started the engine up again on the fresh 10W40 the difference was immediately noticeable; the engine idled quietly without any of the usual tics, knocks & rattles, and when I drove it and gave it some RPMs under load the engine revved freely and was silky smooth and quiet, without any of the harshness and vibration from before. On the next drain there was far less glitter in the used oil, with none whatsoever from then on; 14 years and 130K miles later and the Jeep is still running strong with no engine issues. I suspect that Chrysler's attitude regarding using this super-thin oil in order to achieve their CAFE targets is that as long as the engines make it through the warranty period then all is good, even if the life expectancy for the engine is reduced significantly; what happens after warranty's up just isn't their problem.
Exactly. There is much misinformation out there by people who should know better or frankly actively trying to scare people into using CAFE oils. They argue tighter engines, MDS needs it and alike, but none of that is true. Engines aren't built tighter than they used to be. Part tolerances are smaller, but parts design clearances have been kept the same as decades ago.
The dirtier the oil, the better it works. this is the system.
I bought a used Suzuki Alto Gen VII a couple of months ago, shortly after getting my driving license. It has around 180,000 km on it, and I live in a Nordic country. I'm fairly certain it had 0W-20 oil in the engine when I got it. Since then, I've driven about 6,000 km.
While driving, I’ve occasionally noticed a scratchy feeling through the sound and responsiveness when I press the gas, particularly at speeds around 40-50 km/h. Because of this, I sometimes hesitate to push the gas pedal. It’s not terrible, and maybe I’m just sensitive, but I don’t think any of my friends would notice it. Before owning a car, I used to cycle a lot, maintaining my own bike, and I dislike any form of resistance, so I might be overly attentive to these things.
After doing some research, I learned that some people claim an oil change can reduce engine noise and improve smoothness. I watched videos demonstrating the difference in sound before and after an oil change, read the manual, browsed Reddit comments, and even used ChatGPT for advice. Based on my research, I decided to change the oil myself today. (It’s cheaper to do it yourself than pay a mechanic, but of course, this comes with risks, so proceed with caution.)
I switched from 0W-20 to 5W-30 using Mobil 1 Advanced oil. It was about 3°C outside, but I figured, why not? I did a cold start and let the engine idle for about a minute while choosing some music. Afterward, I took the car for a test drive. I noticed that the engine runs more smoothly, and there’s less noise, so I assume the oil change helped.
If you have any suggestions or recommendations, feel free to share! I’m new to cars, so I’m still learning. Also, I don’t recommend attempting this yourself unless you’re confident or have guidance from a knowledgeable friend or mechanic. Always proceed at your own risk.
BTW i used chatgpt to help me write this perfect text, because i couldn't do it without making grammatic mistakes.
Also my car menual says that the engine (suzuki alto k10b) can use w5-30 from -30 celsius and above to over 100c, so i think why not. But the w0-20 is better in cold and cold start.
I'm not sure if it has made a difference or not but I've always added 1 liter of diesel spec oil for all my gas engines at oil change and haven't had any issues. And a lifter from an '04 Hemi will fit and work in an '09 and later Eagle Hemi. So no, they weren't specifically designed for the zero weight oil.
im thinking you are talking about the valve tick not the exhaust manifold tick
For what it's worth
Spouse has 14 grand cherokee overland 5.7 hemi with 74,000 miles-has been a great vehicle overall but noticed the hemi tick especially on startup that would settle down soon after startup. I have taken more of a role in maintenance on this vehicle and in addition to full synthetic changes I also add lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer and I feel that it has greatly if not completely cured the tick.
Keep in mind I became a believer in the lucas oil stabilizer product when dealing with my civilian H1 HMMWV with the 6.5 turbo diesel. It is not my daily driver and when i would periodically start/use this vehicle there was a noticeable dry start "clack" for a few seconds that drove me nuts but i expected this as it may be weeks or months between use. Since using lucas oil stabilizer in the humvee it can sit 6 months and intial start is smooooth as silk......there is an undeniable difference. Just my experience take it for what its worth but I use it in my kubota diesel as well. appreciate the info and the channel.
Good video ! I have been using 5w/30 for 2 years , since we bought our 2013 ram 5.7 . I also use a quart of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer . Change it before the "recommend" pre set 10k oil change interval . I might try rotella 5w/40 the next time its due for a change .
Lucas is great so is hot shots
That Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer works great. I have a 96 5.2L Grand Cherokee. I bought it used with a little less than 150k miles on it. It sat in a garage for a long time...years. I think it had some stuck lifters. I flushed the engine with Seafoam. The valve train seemed to be a little quieter,but it had a shakey idle. A few days later I drained about a quart of oil and added a bottle of Lucas. Within a week, the Valve train quieted down and it runs really well. Been driving it nearly every day for over a year now. Took it on a few long trips. I trust it. I'm pretty sure that some of the lifters were stuck because sometimes the tick would come and go with just regular 10w30 oil. And it always had good oil pressure.
Check your passenger side exhaust manifold, rear bolt is broken causing that "tick"
2018 Ram 1500,started using Lucas 4 oil changes ago to try and help tick,tick has only gotten louder! 74,000 miles
I made this change about a month ago at my last oil change, it's fixed the "ticking" issue.... Amazing!!!
Some companies changed the piston rings to low friction rings when they went to the 0-20. So you think your engine has the standard/original rings? I would figure out how to turn off the MDS system.
The ring pack in an '04 Hemi is identical to the later Eagle head Hemis. Also, my 2018 Power Wagon 6.4 has a spec oil of 0W40. I wouldn't run anything thicker than 5W40 due to the ring pack but I also add 1 liter of Diesel spec 5W40 to my Power Wagon. Been running Hemis since 2004 and no failures but fixed several for other people.
@@raywagner8016 it is my understanding that the 0-40 is superior. 0-40 is a Euro spec. Shell Rotella has a diesel oil that will work in gassers too. It is designed for the smaller European diesels that Ram and Chevy put in their half ton trucks. Bikers use in their high output engines too. I run the Penzzoil 0-40 in my Yamaha four-stroke outboards
@@Cotton088. Yes and that's why I don't have an issue running up to even 5W40 synthetic in any current gas engine. I like to run a little Rotella just because of the EP additive package. It works for me. I've never had any ring related issues. But I also wouldn't consider using an equivalent conventional oil in a light ring engine.
My 6.4 I use shell Rotella T with a lucus addive and that lessen my tick. Tempted to use 5w40 next oil change.
You can also run a 0W-30 as well to get the cold weather protection on cold start. Heck, 0W-40 would work well too!
I´v read that such a wide span of Viscosity makes it hard for the oil to STAY IN GRADE!
It might be due to the additive package being unable to work as well as with a shorter grade of oil like 5w-30 - 10w-40 - 15w-40
My 2014 hemi ram I bought with 12,000miles now has 118,000 never ticked besides the manifolds been running 5w30 with 1/4 bottle of Lucus oil stabler every 4500-5000 miles
I run the 5w 20 full synthetic but I also run the Lucas oil additive new car formula and engine tik is gone. I have over 60K on my 2019 fifth gen with no issues and been running Lucas additive since 20K. The 5W 30 is absolutely fine but the Lucas additive is thick and does the same thing basically. Good video brother and happy motoring!
I had 2 hemi trucks that had higher milage I used that stuff in, thinking it would help but I got a really bad lifter ticking like almost knocking both times, seems like it gets in the lifters or something and makes them stiick maybe? I Really wouldnt use additives in these engines. just keep the oil really clean, thats just from my experience with lucas
I also tried that and couldn't tell any difference
I started using Valvoline 5w 20 and the tick is hardly noticeable. I also used Castro and its was good too. I dont like Pennzoil my truck runs hot and I stay away from that oil.
I run 5-20 full synthetic in all my HEMIs. Ram 1500 has 195k on it. Grand Cherokee has 120k on it. Charger pursuit has 120k on it. All run awesome.
I'm glad to hear it. My purchased new 2012 RAM Laramie 1500 has 140,000 miles on the HEMI and still purrs like a kitten. I do change the oil every 3,000 miles. Regular oil.
@@williamsparks1521 I've always went full synthetic every 6000 miles. Wix xp oil filter.
@@dozervin I've actually thought about it and never got around to it for reasons unknown. My RAM is simply an incredible vehicle.
How’s your Ram running? I hear Ram trucks run great and last long even on high mileage. I fear my Ram will reach 200,000 miles in 4 years
@@juanmikel7507 My ole ram is still on the road. 198000 miles
Just keep changing that oil. 5-20 full synthetic every 6000 miles
I use mobile 1 synthetic 6qts and 1qt of Lucas
203,000 miles and still going strong on my 09 from day 1 new
My tick started at about 150,000 miles. Turned out to be a deformed lifter and damaged cam shaft. After pricing out the work to replace the cam and all the lifters, I found that for a a few thousand dollars more I could put a Mopar crate engine in it and have a brand new engine. I’ll definitely do the 5W-30 when I get it back in a few days.
In my 14’ I’ve been running 5w-20 full synthetic since day one and never have valve train noise. I now have a passenger side exhaust manifold to replace causing some cold start up noise but that’s it. I know the heavy duty application of the 5.7L said 5w-30 never personally felt I needed to run it. Worth a shot I guess if you’re hearing noise.
My 6.4 hemi makes noise on the passenger side under the truck and it sounds like exhaust or exhaust manifold noise and it goes away after about 30 seconds. Chrysler replaced the whole bank of lifters and it didn’t make one bit of difference. I have just learned to live with it
@@floydlarken3148 Its broken exhaust manifold bolts, mostly goes away after cold start as the metal manifold swells with heat. After having to weld my broken bolts out of the heads I put a straight edge on the manifolds and found they were warped severely. This is common to all manufacturers according to the vids I've been seeing on youtube. I bought new manifolds and gaskets on amazon, they were china made but were true to the straight edge and no more cold start ticking since. However my HEMI does sound like a rattly diesel when driving, maybe changing to thicker oil will help that.
@@watchman11000 Thanks for the info I will have to check more deeply into that. Appreciate it.
Mine was due to the exhaust manifold on both banks. Same with my son's same with another friends truck. Had nothing to do with the oil.
I own a 2021 and it feels like it’s a ticking time bomb sometimes. Thanks for the video! I will be switching over to synthetic from now on.
Wtf dude, why wouldn't you right from the start
@@MMikeHD3904 Bet dude running 20W-50.
What a shame, all this work and time and you couldn't post the pudding!! We would love to hear the tickfree hemi!! ❤
It works. I’ve been running 5w30 now for long enough to convince myself. Hemi tick is gone using 5w30
the second gen hemi came out in 2003. the third gen "Eagle" hemi came out in 2009.
and only an occasional dropped valve seat on the 2nd gen. The Eagle Hemi is world famous for eating cams/lifters since 2009.
i got rid of a hemi tick (only on startup) by treating my oil and gas with a can of seafoam after an oil change. stuff made a world of difference as u can actually hear it start working once added to your oil....this probably wont work if yours is very far gone or has been ignored. hope this helps someone
Did you do this once or do you have to add it after every oil change?
@@petertensuda1192 just changed my oil and I have not heard it at all but I suspect it coming back, 1/3 bottle of seafoam in the oil will be going into this oil change as soon as I get time
I got a 2021 RAM ProMaster last year as Thor Rize was my Camper Van choice. And it ran really good after I put in really good oil, put a K&N air filter and ran Lucas fuel stabilizer in it!!!!
I have the 6.4 in a Challenger. Dodge recommends a 0w-40 for that, Pennzoil. Valvoline makes an oil that meets the spec (FCA Material
Standard MS-12633) as does Schaefer. My only worry would be if the car is under warranty. People can run what they want, but if you go too far off the reservation, you may have issues with a claim. FWIW, the owners manual for my car lists 5w-20 for the 5.7 and 5w-30 for the 3.6.
I just order the oil off Amazon ahead of time and I use the Mopar 899 filter. I change the oil every 5k miles or 6 months. Mine is a 1320, so it has the 8HP70, it's an auto, so it has MDS.
Hello Would you use 5W30 in your 6.4 Hemi?
I would love to try different viscosity in a full synthetic ( Amsoil ) providing better lubrication and stopping tick tick. Pennzoil 0w40 isn’t readily available in stores.
@@josephpuchel6497 Nope. It's under warranty and Amsoil, no matter how good it is, isn't specified. I mean, as long as one uses the right viscosity and API specs, you're pretty much covered, but Dodge does have a specific spec they'd like people to use and there's only 3 companies that make it: Pennzoil, Valvoline and I think Schmitt's. You're going off reservation on two counts. That said, some have said that using the 6.2/hellcat oil pump fixes the problem. The way I look at it, as long as my powertrain is under warranty, I'll use what Dodge recommends as there's nothing for them to back out with if something blows up. I use the oil they recommend and actually change it a little sooner. Another point to look at is that 5W-30 is heavier when cold and lighter at operating temps. Is that really better? Probably not.
@@nokoolaid
any oil is going to be thicker when cold than it is at operating temp.
@@chrispainter997 And the relevance of that statement? Using heavier oil that specified for a particular engine can be a bad thing and lead to greater wear. In terms of the hemi tick, it's not from a viscosity issue, but oil flow at particular engine speeds and operating conditions and the overall design of the cam/lifters with that in mind. Some have found that the helllcat oil pump helps. It's higher volume. Of course it's your money.
@@nokoolaid
The problem with the hemi is, there are no oil journals for the cam.
The oil is slung from the oil pan to the cam by the lobes on the crank.
From my research, it is recommended to not idle for long periods of time, because unless you’re at roughly 1500 RPMs, you’re not slinging enough oil up there to keep things lubricated.
From my experience, that appears to be true due to the fact, we had a lot of cam/lifter issues in the dodge pick ups where I worked due to the trucks idling for long periods of time.
When you have a vehicle with long periods of idle time, between oil changes, the oil needs to be changed in hours, not mileage increments.
So I don’t see how putting a high flow oil pump on a motor would just pump more oil out of the pan, and limit the amount of oil being able to be slung up to the cam and lifters.
I got a 2014 Ram 1500 with 300,000 km it had a tick until I changed the oil to 5w30 and the tic disappeared.
my 2018 6.2 Sierra takes 0w20 and it's like water. I live in a mild climate and have used 5w 20 instead. I've been thinking of going to 5w 30. I also started using Amsoil also.
I have an 18’ 5.3 and the tick has always bothered me. With my warranty expiring soon I might do the same.
I switched too amsoil years ago in my ram 5 30
Didn’t ram raise the location of the cam? I think some speculate that that decreased clearance and made the tick worse.
Just remember if your vehicle is new and under warranty..always use recommended oil weight in owners manual, there goal is try to find ways not to cover it, if they investigate and find wrong oil was used your SOL
you might have a good point ,i never had a thick on my engine but since i went to the last oil change i now have one . thanks for the tip i will look that over ..
Same here, after walmart changed my oil!
Been running Mobil One 5w-20 since the first oil change on my 2009 Ram Sport with the 5.7 HEMI and changed oil religiously every 3000 miles. Never dealt with any ticking at all on the engine and now just over 220K miles. Have always used WIX filters at every oil change. I do add a "motor flush" application before every third or fourth oil change to soften up and remove any sludge/varnish in the journals and cavities to keep the oil flowing smoothly as with all my other vehicles and seems to be working like a charm. The only engine/drivetrain part replaced so far were the alternator and the serpentine belt. I've added a can of B-12 Chemtool to the tank at every other fill-up to keep the fuel system clean since it was new, and never had any starting/stumbling/performance issues at all.
I only use amzoil signature series and I do the oil change every 5 k milles.
same here with my hemi. pennzoil platinum full synthetic 5w20, wix/xp filters, and 3,000 mile intervals. i think there’s a case to be made for switching to 5w30 or 5w40 but i think playing around with oil viscosity is a dangerous game. simply using the best oil and filters as well as maintaining strict service intervals matters a lot more.
I’d say run 0w-30 for even better cold start performance in the winter and use 5w-30 in the summer.
Sounds like you only needed a bit of oil stabilizer, that way you keep the oil circulation speed, and also getting rid of the tick and a bunch of other issues old stabilizer cures.
My cousin has a jeep with the hemi in it , it also has the hemi tic , i just sent him this video. Thanks for the advice👍
These Hemis and their tics.
Mine has crabs.
I do have 2016 5.7 hemi deleted MDS and been using 0w40 & 5w40 NO PROBLEMS at all
The issue is not the lifter. This has been brought up many times. One person talk about camshafts failure like failed heat treatment than flake off the lobe into the lifter. Your idea is spot on if that roller is finds a thin spot on a lobe the roller could go through and tick. Sound advice in this video
Us "older" guys have known to throw a tid-bit thicker oil in cars that tick for a lot of moons. Unscrupulous sellers still do it to cover up issues. And, to all the people saying the oil makes or breaks "2 mpgs" ... show me. No way it impacts mpg that much. Happy Saturday.
Will only work for a bit. You're destined for lifter issues.
I’ve got an Acura TL, J35 engine.
Same thing, older J35’s and some other countries state 5w-30, but US owners manual states 0w-20.
I do run 0w-20 Dec-Feb, but run 5w-30 the rest of the year.
I’m going to try this out soon. 15K miles on my 22 Ram Hemi. I hear the damn tick at low RPMs.
Thanks for the video. My go to is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Purolator Boss filter. If not Ultra Platinum i try to get Valvoline Extended Protection or Restore and Protect. I have a fleet of about 10 vehicles and try to change oil every 5k miles.
Same thing with my kia hybrid. 1.6 4cyl turbo they want 0w-20. Has valve clatter. Switched to 5w-30 and all gone. Plus you'd think with a small turbo engine with higher pressures and temps you'd want the 5w-30 standard.
This is problematic on your car because it's a hybrid. You want thin oil on a hybrid because it's going to do a lot of cold starts. You're prematurely wearing your engine using the heavy oil. Also don't use aftermarket oil filters on those Kias. Only use OEM filters from the dealer. I don't know why, but in my experience Hyundai/Kia products with aftermarket filters produces top end noise. Every time I buy one I put the OEM filter on them, the noise goes away
It has a roller cam and solid roller lifters.... it's going to tick until oil gets to the lifters
I've always used synthetic oil in my hemi trucks. My 04 has never ticked, still doesn't. My 2012 had no tick, except for snapped exhaust manifold bolts. My 2021 has 5w20 as recommended oil I believe. 0w20 oil should, in theory, bring lubrication to the lifter valley faster on cold starts than 5w30. Synthetic oil is by far the way to go, no matter what. I do know that the newer hemi motors (09+) have higher compression and the heads flow better than 03-08 hemi engines. Maybe that has something to do with the 0w20 recommended oil??
My 04 has 300,000 miles on her..she tiks in startup- then goes away
@@rdallas81 that's awesome man. I love hemis! My 04 only has around 90k on the clock. RCSB 4x4.
@@crunklescrunkles4425 I have the Laramie edition.
Leather, 4 door, 20" Rims, DVD player, amplifier, All wheel drive with high range and low range.
Bought it cheap- put a few hundred dollars in parts in it and am happy with it.
My 21' ram has been getting 5w20 since i bought it new and performed the "engine break in". I just got an oil change of full syn and noticed a change. Turns out they put in 5w30. The truck feels like the oil temp is at 45 degrees when its ar 200. It seems to have to work a bit harder and i notice it downshifts sooner (mds on or off). Im not liking this and will go back to 5w20 asap. And no ticking ever noticed with 5w20. Just my 2 cents.
Btw my manual for my 5.7 21' big horn says 5w 20. Is yours really sayin 0w20??
I've read in the technical service bulletins that the heaviest oil you can use is 5W-20 oil in order for the MDS system to function properly. The Hemi in my 2017 Longhorn was a little noisy so I thought I would try 5W-30 synthetic oil in it. MDS functions exactly the same as it did with 5W-20 synthetic oil in it. Even when the oil has not fully warmed up the MDS system functions as before. I'm even tempted to try full synthetic 10W-30 oil in it to see how that works. Have been using Pennzoil Platinum for years. 0W-20 is way too light for summer driving in my mind.
I accidently put 5W-30 in my 5.7 with MDS, instead of 5W-20. No difference noticed at all.
The solution is upgrading the oil pump. Yes putting good oil helps to maintain the engine nice and healthy cause good lubricants and stuff but changing the oil pump to an upgraded or from the hellcat model
The Wix and Purolator oil filters do a great job of filtering. However, they can be too restrictive for the Hemi engine do to the lifters being so high up. You need instant flow especially in cold weather months. I use a K&N filter for two reasons. 1 it's less restrictive but still filters well. 2 it has a welded on 1" nut on the bottom for easy removal. Most any new filter will allow good flow for a while but when they begin to get dirty the tic will be back.
I live in the desert. Hardly ever gets below freezing. 👍
I was told Boss by purolator is the way to go especially for price but wondering if theyre too restrictive also…which K and N model do you use. I do Purolator Boss every 6k miles with Penzoil Ultra Plat. Or the gold label advanced synthetic from Valvoline…if the pureolator is good for 10-15k like it says (which id never go over 6500 with any filter or oil anyway) i wonder if flow is a non issue if im doing 6k interval changes?
@@Orr_s K&N 1017 for the 5.7 Hemi
@@TheNewenglandboys thanks!
K&N performance gold and mobile 1 extended performance the two best high flowing oil filters Engine masters k&n was the best of the spin on type with mobile 1 not in there test in other test on RUclips mobile 1 extended performance oil filter beat k&n used k&n gold last 2 oil changes this one I’m using the mobile 1 and it was a few bucks cheaper 2
It's the rocker arms tapping on the rocker shaft. Original hemi was designed around high zinc oil.
The higher viscosity will also protect the timing chain guides better.
My hemi has never had a tick.. Always Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge EP 0W-20, in winter I run a VW 508/509 spec oil. I did run a boron additive after break in that likely helped. 🤷♂
I believe the startup tick is caused by the Mopar filter. I’ve owned three Hemi’s and they rarely have a lifter tick on startup after sitting for up to a few days. I bought two 2019 5.7 Hemi Rams and they both had lifter tick at startup a couple times a week. After I switched to Mobil 1 or K&N oil filters on the first oil change the startup tick went away. I think Mopar filters have a leaky anti drain valve. I use 5w20 Full Synthetic with no tick. Sold my 2012 at 175k with no tick. Still ran perfectly. I have used many brands of oil with similar results.
Interesting. I've always used the MOPAR filter on mine. I'll try the Purolator or the WIX and see how they do. My 2016 has always had 5W20 synthetic. I'm going to try the 5W30 as well.
I’d be more inclined to believe it was the filter as well, but to be sure I’d have said stay with moparfilter and try Mobil 1 synthetic 0w20 again, because essentially he changed two variables here where the tick vanished, the filter and the oil at the same time.
I have had the startup tick with both Mopar as well as Napa Platinum oil filters. But it is not really doing that very often. Trying K&N now. We'll see what happens.
Hi .. my 392 2020 Challenger ScatPack HEMI ticks from the first day … and then
I use 10w60 Castrol … the ticking is gone ….
runs great very often full speed on German Autobahn…
I use it for years in all my cars …also in my 2007 Audi A6 3,0 TDI ( Diesel) … , 1,8t New Beetle and in my IROC Camaro…
Greeting from Germany
I only put 5w-20 AMSOIL XL with a Royal Purple filter in my wife’s 2017 Durango R/T. It has 85k miles on it now and has never had a tick. Quality full synthetic oil and a good filter make all the difference in the world
you are correct . I used redline 5w - 20 oil , oil change every 3000 miles . sweet engine .
My truck had the same issue with the 5.7 Hemi. It had 23km on the odometer and once in a while an odd ticking at startup that goes away after couple seconds. I've isolated it to the drain back valve in the stock Mopar filter. They are probably cheap and break often. I had the oil and filter changed and the problem seems gone. I wouldn't put 5W30 as the manual says to put 5w20 and this is what is certified to run into the truck. Hemis have trouble at getting enough oil at idle. I don't think you want to put in there a type with higher viscosity ... probably would get an even harder time getting oil on the top if you do. Even though it sticks more.
I have 2021 2500 6.4. It’s done it since day one. The 0w40 can’t be good for it. I’ve been thinking of switching anyway. Glad to hear yours is cured. You are right about the first change. It looked like water. Does your sounds like it’s gargling rocks when it goes into eco mode? Ill hit the tow/haul button to shut it up sometimes
Hey Will you be trying 5W30 in your 2021 6.4 Hemi ?
They say it might throw a code.
I use Mobil1 5W30 full syn with premium filter in my FORD 2.0L, BUICK 3.6L, Dodge 5.2L, & 3.6L.
My 6.4 hemi in a 2019 Challenger without MDS (manual transmission) had a really loud tick at only 2500 miles. I noticed the same thing when draining out the original 0w40 synthetic that it looked like water. I visualized it all running back to the pan as soon as you shut engine off. Since then, I've been adding a bottle of STP oil treatment to it when I change the oil. The idea I thought might help is that it adds some "stickiness" to the oil and allow it to have a film of oil cling to the parts. It's been running quiet ever since with no other issues.
Look for Redline oil. Little pricey but its designed for go fast cars. It also doesnt sheer as much as the off the shelf stuff.
I use valvoline 5w20 plus stp oil treatment. Think it’s a blue bottle but the fluid is thick! Anyway yeah it helps tremendously with the rattling ticking bullshit.
So you still kept the 0w40 just added stp? If so what kind exactly? I’m in the same boat you were
@@ernestoyorba7813 I'm still running 0w40 for now because I already had it, but now I'm thinking about using 5w40 next time I change it... Just regular STP oil treatment is what I'm using. STP has worked great in many of my old worn-out classic cars for years keeping them on the road, reduces blow-by and oil consumption, and keeps engines quiet.
@@adamrodenberg1557have you tried it? I’m thinking about it for my 6.4
Thank you for the advice. I run Royal Purple 5w-20 and might switch to 5w-30, especially if I run it harder. By the way, both weights from Royal Purple meet the 5.7 oil spec, Ms-6395. Thanks again.
Most Hemi’s have there own sound and a certain sound of lifter noise. I do use synthetic oil Pennzoil. No issue yet but I have 5W-20. I live in a very cold winter climate in 🇨🇦. 5w30 should work here I think but scared to try it. Maybe after my warranty is over I shall try it. 👍
I would run the 5/30 in warm summer months and then a little thinner for cold winter months. That was a common thing we did at a garage I worked at in 1980 with various brands and years of vehicles. The tolerances weren’t quite as slim then however the heavier oil viscosity on very cold days had gas engines hammering like diesels for easily 15 to 30 seconds while the pump tried to push dam near grease viscosity liquid through the oil journals. I have an original 1968 Dodge engine in my garage that’s never been rebuilt, doesn’t smoke or hammer. It was treated to the seasonal variety oil changes. Thinner winter, thicker summer.
@@bbrown5887 Makes sense B Brown. I used to use 10W-30 back in the day for summer and reduce to thinner oil in winter. Now just 5w30 straight through
I thought being a full synthetic oil like Amsoil it wouldn’t get too thick like in severe cold days.