AMSOIL SAE 5w-30 Synthetic Motor Oil White Paper
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- Опубликовано: 18 май 2013
- Independent test confirms AMSOIL 5W-30 Signature Series oil is a superb synthetic oil. See the qualities that make Amsoil Signature oils superior to the competition.
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Yes amsoil SS 5w30 I run it in 2 of my vehicles then use the small engine oil in my equipment Z rod in my old car and dirt or metric in my enduro dirtbike!! Love amsoil!! Another great lecture Dan I didn't know what the four ball bearing test was I appreciate that thank you brother
You're a great communicator
Amsoil in everything for everything!!
Appreciate the videos, very informative!!
Hi Dan thanks.
Castrol GTX, Petro-Canada or Formula Shell conventional has always served me well in all my cars and equipment. I enjoy having the extra money in my pocket, and getting to change it regularly.
Very good content, Dan. 👌
No OE or XL for me ...I bought the Signature Series 5w 30 for a 2012 Nissan Rogue with the 4 cylinder 2.5...Great noticeable difference in acceleration,I did not have to use as much pedal to get it going...Fuel milage was way better..
They should use top of the line oil for each brand ex. Pennzoil platinum to compare to the top of the line Amsoil. I wished they had Liqui Moly (made in Germany) as one of the products to compare against...
Even Redline's motorcycle oil is sold as racing type with double the ZDDP [+2000ppm] than most moto oils.
Check out the farm project oil testing Amsoil won
I use amsoil signature 5w30 in suzuki ertiga 4 years 85.000km...and change every 10.000km and still smooth....amsoil the best
you can do more than 30000 kms with filter changes and topoffs
How does the European Formula stack up on these tests?
The European oils perform to the higher standards of the ACEA (vs the API). Euro oils are separated by Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulfur (SAPS) concentrations to align with advanced exhaust systems on some Euro vehicles. The Amsoil Signature Oils will usually meet or exceed the performance levels of the Euro Oils. The one place of separation is the SAPS ratings. To avoid confusion, Amsoil produces the full line of Euro Oils. There are several application where the Signature Series will be rated for the Euro applications. The ACEA ratings are printed on the bottle labels, you just have to know what they mean.
Email me your vehicles and I will give you the recommendations including if one of the Signature Series Oils will meet your requirements. My email is DanWatson@TheLubepage.com
Hi - I have a 2014 Fiesta (in India) with the Ford Duratorq 1.5 diesel (aka DLD, which is originally a Peugeot Engine that Mazda uses as well). These use oil conforming to Ford WSS-M2C913 C/D, a rather old spec and oils for that spec are semi synthetic or synthetic hydrocracked ones with older specs (API CF, ACEA A1/B1) - typically Mobil Super, and similar cheaper oils from Castrol (Magnatec Professional), Shell etc. Amsoil 5w30 signature has Ford WSS-M2C929 and 946 specs, do these update the 913 spec, or are they purely gasoline specs? The signature series looks more like a gasoline oil than a diesel.
I'm using 5w40 weight Amsoil turbo truck for my other car (a 2.2 liter diesel Mahindra Scorpio, not too different from the engine in the Roxor Willys jeep clone that's being sold stateside now) and it works great. However I'm not entirely persuaded a 5w40 weight oil is going to be as good for the Ford which needs 5w30.
I bought oe for my rio, i get 3000miles on 1year, so i believe i have a good decision this time, btw how about european formula?
Amsoil OE is as good as any of the standard synthetics in the market place. OE is rated for 7500 miles or the longest interval in your owner's manual. OE is 100% synthetic and it is the bottom tier of Amsoil's three families of oil. OE the XL then Signature Series.
Why wasn't Motul included in this comparison? Possibly because it had better results than the Amsoil?
Help me out, does Motul make auto and truck oils? I know they make excellent motorcycle oils.
Yeah. Around 2010. ACEA C3 / API CF www.motul.co.nz/product/trd-sport-engine-oil-5w40-for-diesel/
Sir watson , im from philippines my car is toyota 2017 , 2.8 L diesel engine intercooler turbo , can i use 5w -30 heavy duty signature amsoil diesel . Recomended viscosity of my suv SAE 5W - 30 . Oil grade API CF - 4 , CF or ACEA B1 or API CE or cd . Can i use amsoil heavy duty .
Yes, the heavy duty diesel oil (API CK-4) will exceed the requirements for the diesel ratings of API CF-4 / CD / CE also ACEA B1 is basic diesel rating. Just make sure the oil you are using is CI-4+ / CJ-4 or CK-4 and you will be OK.
@@thelubepage thank you very much sir , advice .
Why are there always Amsoil haters they have the same complaints it's price well don't buy it buy Sam's Choice Walmart oil if you're cheap you get what you pay for with oil guys like me that build engines Gearheads are willing to pay more money for an over engineered 100% truly synthetic oil like Amsoil SS it's weird with Amsoil people either love it or hate it unlike any other oil company Amsoil strives to be the best and they are other oil companies make oil just good enough to keep your engine together a couple hundred thousand miles Amsoil strives to keep your engine together a half a million plus it's severely over engineered oil that can hold up in a race car it certainly won't break down in the wife's minivan and that's why I buy it and run it and everything I have and whenever you're the best I guess there's always going to be haters
Tell me this Dan Watson. I looked on Amsoil website their cam/lifter wear for the 0w20 is at 20.28 for the sequence test. Schaeffer manufacturing 0w20 cam lifter wear is 9.8!!!! THAT IS LESS THAN HALF THE WEAR OF AMSOIL
Charles, 9.8 is better than 20.28. Now both numbers are well below the standard for the Sequence IV test of 90. But this is only one test that shows one characteristic of the oils performance. The Shaffer 9000 is a high quality oil but there are some other parameters to checkout to get the whole picture. TBN for one, which is a measure of the ability of the oil to neutralize acids and it also reflects the robustness of the additive package as a whole. Amsoil is 12.5 and Shaffer is 7.8, this is primarily because Amsoil is warranted for 25,000 miles of service and Shaffer is for normal drains. Another important measure is the volatility of the oil with Amsoil being 8.5% and Shaffer being 12.8% again this is because you need better control of loss of vapor which tends to thicken the oil when you recommend longer drain intervals. Deposit control is an important quality and in another white paper field test in Taxi Cabs in Las Vegas the cleanliness of the Dodge V-6 engine after over 1000 hours on the same 0W-20 Signature Series oil is remarkable. The biggest difference in these oils is that Shaffer is a high quality Group III base stock and Amsoil Signature Series is primarily Group IV and Group V base stocks. The Amsoil XL oils are high quality group III like the Shaffer oils. Additionally, you might notice the Shaffer is not labeled 100% synthetic but "Full Synthetic" this means the carrier oil for the additives is most likely petroleum based and this restricts you from labeling the oil as 100% synthetic. So, I commend Shaffer on the Sequence IV test and challenge Amsoil to do a little better but oils are complicated lubrication formulations and there are many parameters to measure to get the complete picture, I've only named a couple here there are more.
But oil gets contaminated with gas & soot & crud. I don’t want to go that long on an oil change.
To be fair I didn't like how they had the Mobil 1 as over 2 oil changes in under 12k miles when it's labeled as lasting up to 15k miles
then you should test your car up to 12K. then you will see a result, right? comparing to my country, US traffic condition is not severe driving condition at all. when you drive, you don't face with heavy traffic you can't imagine. you can use mobile 1 up to 12K. but you can't use up to 12'K if you drive in Seoul or Tokyo where lots of people live or you get tons of stress when you drive through heavy traffic. it's severe condition. you have to change every 6K then. changing oil depends on condition. in the same situation, even Amsoil can't be used up to 25,000miles. no. it's maybe better for 12K or something. but it's still amazing.
WTF. Everyone else has price calculated for 2.x changes and yours gets calculated at 1. Everything else was properly done, the price comparison was bullshit.
Walter spell it out I really want to better understand you eloquent comment.
Keep your oil changed and you will have no issues with conventional oil. There are no magic potions .....this topic is worse than politics
amsoil runs that 4 ball test at 302F... tell me what engine oil sees 302F? Or right *non* amsoil runs it at that temp cause they know normal oil is going to start to degrade at about 260F... see they BULLSHIT you... why not test it at 500F? I mean why not? lets REALLY test this oil... na... they run it at 302F cause no ENGINE is going to see that temp... If you ran this around 212F... guess what... you think amsoil would really be any different than any of the other oils? NA... but they try to sell you saying "we really wanted to test this oil" again... why not use 500F? 1000F? lets REALLY REALLY test it... when amsoil runs REAL WORLD tests... lets see what the difference is (tip its gona be like almost nothing or nothing)
Matt,
You have correctly pointed out some errors in my mechanical knowledge, I am addressing that in a separate reply. But now you are showing your not perfect either. Oil runs 30*F to 70*F hotter than water temp in your engine. And your are right depending on the viscosity of the oil, petroleum oils will begin to breakdown around 260*F to 270*F. Based on your other comments I'm sure you know that oil cools a large portion of the engine. In order for the oil to transfer heat to the water passages in the engine the oil has to be hotter than the water (basic heat transfer principal). So the whole purpose of showing the 4 ball wear test at the elevated temp is to show that the Amsoil will provide protection where other oils are loosing it. See you know mechanics but you don't know oil and the chemistry and physics and Heat Transfer and the lubrication regimes that are in progress to provide protection. So you want to talk about BULLSHIT, STICK WITH THE MECHANICAL, your clearly an expert in that area, I openly admit I'm not a mechanic. See the other response for more on my inadequacies as a mechanic.
BTW, Thermostat set at 205*F means oil is running a minimum of 235 avg. Put the engine to work and make it really put out horsepower and torque and now you have oil running 275*F. As you know in towing vehicles additional oil coolers are often added and without those coolers oil could easily exceed 300*F.
REALLY now? Amsoil says different youtube watch?v=VlHrs15Ywho amsoil flat out said "we test at 300 when the engine is running 195" LOLOLOL...
It's all just bullshit to sell here you were just proven wrong by your own company your repping...
So either you are full of it or the amsoil people MAKING AMSOIL are full of it... what one is it?
I know your full of it btw because like I told you in a 6.0 powerstoke, the ENGINE DERATES AT 253 EOT...
How is the engine oil going to run 275F when the god damn computer is going to dereate the motor at over 253? EXPLAIN. ya amsoil even says it aint running that hot... your starting to show how many lies you tell to push amsoil... i dare ANYONE with a EOT sensor and a correctly working system (IE if a engine oil cooler exists, it is not clogged) to show me a EOT over 250... (again a ford 6.0 is going to derate at 253... so that tells you hands down engine oils are NEVER seeing over 250 under correct operation)
he is a good scamoil artis phony classrooms
John Doe Maybe the class is, but the oil actually works. My wife's car went from 22 mpg to 25mpg.
What makes the class a scam. All I do is give out straight information, verifiable information and people revert to middle school antics