Straight and Multi-Weight Oil Comparison
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Some oils perform over multiple weights while other are classified in a single weight range. What enables an oil to perform in multiple categories and how AMSOIL produce a straight weight oil that offers multi-weight protection.
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Very informative video as to how vicosity and V. I. works at high low temps.
I use straight 30 weight Shell Rotella oil and everything I got. I use it in my farm tractor my automobile my pickup truck and my lawn mower. my Honda Accord has 268 thousand miles on it.
clev hay how often do/did you change the oil? (Rotella)
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Fantastic info. Thanks!
When I think about running a 5w40 Group III oil I never know if it's really that safe or it it's going to be full of VI improvers. Carrot soup comes to mind.
excellent video.
Nice video. Too bad about the audio problems left channel. But good info!
I have a F22B1 (140K), and F22A6 (375K) (both Honda 4cyl) and i use GTX High Mileage 20w-50. I used AMSOil, but every hole in every gasket leaked out, so I went to a Semi-Synthetic high mileage for the swelling additives to stop and slow leaking.
Did it worked out?
I think the viscosity improvers are a good thing because your oil is thin when it's cold and thick when it's warm the complete opposite of what a straight weight oil would do correct? Since a straight 30 weight oil wouldn't have any viscosity improvers wouldn't it be thin hot and thick cold? Interesting video
What about the taste test?
My 2017 nissan rogue manual states to use 0w-20. Can I use Amsoil 5W-30 or 10W-30? (I live in FL). Which amsoil should be best?
i have a 1983 toyota camper 22r moter 4cyl 96000 mile want to put the best oil in what do you recmmend?
hydrocraked oil is synthetic oil or semisynthetic oil.
I used straight 30 weight oil in tropical country is that a good change?
Go back to the days of your youth and you may get a chance to use that straight-weight oil!
Fluids mechanics specifically.
I was taught in high school auto mechanics by my old school mechanics teacher that the additives in multi viscosity conventional oil didn't have any lubricating qualities. So he used straight 30 W conventional oil in his early and then his later 80s model Chevy Suburbans in the spring and summer time. Then in the fall he would switch to a multi viscosity conventional oil until the following spring. I took his advice back then, in about '85 and did the same for several years. But these days it appears that all of the straight 30 W conventional oils are mainly suited for lawnmowers and such and I haven't found any detergent type straight weight oils suitable for vehicles lately either. And I've gathered over the years that conventional oils have drastically improved also. My question is, I have a '95 Buick Riviera with about 130,000 miles and it's time for an oil change. What are your thoughts on finding/using a straight 30W oil this summer? What are your oil recommendations. I believe that the specs call for a 10w30 oil.....
Of course viscosity improvers are not anti-wear additives. Increasing viscosity will make the oil film thicker and this will enhance separation of the moving surfaces. Straight weight oils were preferred early on because the VI products were not very good and they tended to fracture and the oil would then not attain rated viscosity. Today, the viscosity improvers (polymers) are light years better and shear-back is not a problem in good quality oils. Use a good 10W-30 in your 95 Buick and it should provide you with year round protection.
Dan Watson Thanks for the reply, that's good info...
Motor oils have a service rating. The latest is SN. All motor oils have to be compatible because the biggest buyer motor oil, the federal government demands it. You have to use the rating required by your vehicle. Maybe you can mess with what weight you use, but you have to have the right rating. That means, for one thing, that you cannot use SB-rated non-detergent oil in any modern vehicle. Some people with old VW's and vintage cast iron engines still use it, but no one else can. Unless they like buying engines. Or they just love to experiment and are willing to pay the cost.
Amsoil makes a 10w-60 Dirt Bike Oil that I use in a dual sport. So would I be better off using a V-Twin 15w-60 instead?
No V-Twin has a different additive package than the dirt bike oil so sue the dirt bike oil.
Mr Watson, When you say that a wide range multi, like a 5w50 or 10w60 has a quick breakdown, are you considering a mineral, semi or fully synthetic oil>
It really has to do with the amount of VI improvers you have to use for the extra wide spread. High quality synthetics use less VI additives than petroleum for the same spread. My concern is really for 5W-50 or 10W-60, improvements in VI additives have made 5W-40 acceptable.
You consider a group III a high quality synthetic in these VII scenario>
Certainly, group III are higher than petroleum but group IV has higher natural viscosity index numbers so you add less VI improvers to group IV for same spread as group III.
Dan Watson So, what about polyol esters? Would it help to give a thin group III a better natural Viscosity Index?
This counts as Thermodynamics revision right?
i have a saturn sl2 1998 with 247,000 miles can I use multi grade oil? would it be better?
Where do you live? Does it get real cold?
Hey, it's not the problem of a synthetic oil. Your engine or gasket has leak so you gotta fix it. the synthetic oil has better flow so that even in a small hole they can leak out, but conventional motor oil is much thicker, like a honey, that they can not leak out. Again, it's NOT due to the oil. go change your gasket. check out youtube video 'synthetic vs conventional oil' by eric the car guy
100,000 rpm
That's alot
But this is a straight oil, no VIs. Anyway the exam's been and gone I'm afraid!
Weight? Lol >< what a fraud they all weigh the same thing
Weight is used as slang term when viscosity should be used. So many folks are used to this terminology that it is easier to explain things in terms people are familiar with. To be fully correct higher viscosity oils are actually heavier in 'weight' than lower viscosity oils. This is due to significantly larger molecules giving the higher viscosity oils a greater mass. They have more mass per volume. Weight is proportional to Mass.
@BIG HORN MGTOW The Amsoil Max Duty 15W-40 Diesel Oil is the best you can buy.
This is a good question. Hydro-cracked oil is a Group III synthetic oil not a semi-synthetic. The confusion comes in whether Grp III should be classified a synthetic. This argument peaked in the late 1990's with Castrol claiming Grp III to be synthetic and Mobil saying it wasn't. Outcome Grp III is allowed to be classified as synthetic. Grp IV synthetic is primarily Poly-Alpha-Olephin (PAO) and is the superior grade hence the Grp IV classification. For more info contact me on my website
The original oil recommendation would be for 10W-30 but based on the 96,000 miles and the severe duty, I would recommend Amsoil 10W-40 (AMO) or 15W-40 (AME). The thicker oil will give you a better ring seal and reduce blow-by. Blow-by will cause pressure in the crankcase and this will result in oil vapor being sucked through the PCV system and burned resulting in oil consumption.
Actually, your question is right on target. How can a straight weight oil with no VI be called a 10W-30/SAE 30 weight? The answer is in the testing that qualifies the oil for the SAE Grade. Oils are tested at a cold temp and must achieve a certain flow to achieve the W rating and then tested again at 210*F for the second number (operational viscosity). The synthetic Amsoil 10W-30/SAE 30 passes both testing points with zero VI added. Oils without VI are defined as straight weight.
Actually, your right! I would rather go to a 10W-40 than a 5W-40 but the company tells me that the new polymers designed for VI can handle the wide range of 5W-40. It seems to me that if it is so cold you need a 5W that maybe going 5W-30 would be sufficient but the vehicle manufacturers are calling for the 5W-40. I still stand by the smaller the range the more shear stable the oil. I'm going to lose this argument to the designers so I'll just go ahead and yell UNCLE.
No I think you're right it does take more of the viscosity improvers to go from a 5 weight to a 40 weight then it does a 5 to a 30 and I've heard the same thing that they sheer a little faster but only in turbocharged vehicles or motorcycles your average daily driver isnt hard enough on the oil to Shear it back as fast and viscosity improvers today are phenomenal. So I think you're right to certain point but I think it's only High Strung engines that are stressful on the oil like motorcycles that share a crankcase and a transmission and turbochargers you do bring up an interesting point though
If the engine calls for a 40W oil, arbitrarily deciding you can use a 30W oil just because you think it's cold enough outside may not work out well. The oil can still get very hot even in cold weather and using a thinner than specified oil may or may not provide adequate protection and there is very little to be gained from doing so. I prefer avoiding oils with a wide viscosity spread as much as possible too because of the problems viscosity index improvers can cause, but sometimes something like a 0W40 is necessary either because of cold temperatures or warranty requirements. If oils with a wide viscosity spread were incapable of adequately protecting the engine, we wouldn't see so many high performance cars calling for these oils. The Corvette, Challenger Hellcat, Ram TRX, and Nissan GTR as well as many cars from Porsche, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, McLaren, Ferrari, Lamborghini, etc have been using 0W40 for years and they seem to be doing alright, so I wouldn't lose any sleep over this.
Multi-Grade oils do not adhere to Newtonian fluid characteristics. Newtonian fluids can be plotted between phase transformation points (freezing and vaporizing) and will consistently show decreasing viscosity as temp increases. Multi-Grade oils are thin when cold and thicker when hot. This is done by using Viscosity Improver (VI). VI is made up of string polymers that are straight when cold and coil up when they get hot. The coiling action is like starch in gravy and thickens the oil.
Interesting observation. What is the basis for your claim? Have you performed a series of chemical analysis or an exhaustive review of the available properties and performance for Amsoil vs the other synthetics? If you choose to make such statements then you should be ready to back them up!
Thermodynamics is defined as: the physics that deals with the mechanical action or relation of heat. If you could be more specific in your comment I will respond.