There are so many anecdotal opinions on the internet/ RUclips. If you are a car guy, and you wanna respect someone with actual knowledge, Lake Speed Jr. is the Man !
There're other earthlings that know all this oily stuff but Lil Lake is the first to expose all the truth on RUclips. All the other liars, opiners, snake oil salesman should run and hide, and delete their false information videos. Hats off to Lake Speed Jr. Put yer hands on the oil bottle 🛢️💦👍👍
It’s ALL FACTUAL and that’s because Lake Speed is a man that loves or enjoys his job and he has expanded into more leanings or training from experience and backs himself up. He is a dying breed of man who cares to share his knowledge. THAT demands respect in my opinion.
his presentation should've been longer also allow more time for questions and give them a microphone Having someone with his knowledge is priceless he is answering so many questions that I've had for many years
I love when I come across people so passionate in the things they do. This man is a wealth of knowledge, and has a great way of teaching. It’s hard to align all those things…. Thanks for sharing !
Tip for Lake during question and answers - Repeat the question or at least summarize it for the listeners that can't hear the question asked. Most often you can guess what the question was based of the answer but not always.
That was incredibly insightful! Thank you Lake for helping us navigate the sea of marketing misinformation and thank you to the PCA for making this available to everyone.
I was just thinking... the oil marketing is actually impossible because there are what: almost 3 dozen fuel formulations in the US alone? They can't possibly nail down blow-by effects on engines coast to coast in a one size fits all additive package. The differences might be small, but they are there.
I worked for Mercedes Benz from 1970 to 1990 and they approved ONLY Techron for their fuel injection systems, back in 1980. Those lousy Single row timing chain 380 SL/SE/SEC engines had injector clogging. Techron cured rough idle, rough off idle, and restored injector spray patterns. Absolutely NO oil additives. And before synthetic oil, 15w/40 mineral oil was THE oil approved. All hail Lake Speed Jr. for spreading oil good will 🛢️💦👍🏆🏁
I always bought the cheapest gas until one time I bought Chevron gas simply because it was the cheapest around and before the tank was gone, the car noticeably stopped shaking during idle and ran smoother all to be time. This was noticeable despite me not even trying to pay attention to that shake because I simply bought the Chevrolet gas because it was the cheapest.
Really enjoyed this lecture. It was fun!!! Next time, just give a microphone to the audience asking questions. Congrats and thanks to the organizers as well.
Not gonna lie.. little triggered with the Ceratec image lol and then the BMW, liquimoly engine flush and Ceratec example.. I was like dude how’d you know all that about me😂
*PCA, thank you for bringing the genius and passion of Lake Speed to the attention of those who may be unfamiliar with him. For those interested and aside from his Motor Oil Geeking (Tribology), Lake also has a major presence on Total Seal's Piston Rings channel. Worth a look. Cheers!*
Thanks! Simple takeaway for engine oil use the right one and change out a bit more frequently than manufacturers recommendation, all additives and flushes are basically not necessary then. However, do consider using good quality all fuel. System cleaner.
48:30 is the advice 99% of us need. Match the spec and viscosity called for by the factory. If you're in the 1% that wants to spend a lot more money, probably defeating the point of avoiding engine repair costs, then do oil analysis throughout the life of the engine.
Fuel additives might be ok for Port Fuel Injected engines, but not GDI engines. The Redline fuel treatment showed in the video, cleaned a small spot at the point of the GDI spray on top of the piston. The cheap base carrier oil makes up 90% of the cleaner, oxidizes quickly and leaves a black, carboneous, gummy residue in the chamber. This means problems for the valves, when reversion occurs and really bad for compression and oil control rings. I have borescope images before and after, showing this problem. I had another friend do the same, in his GDI engines. Borescope images were the same.
You realize he was talking about regular port injection to this seminar?? He has videos on his channel about fuel additives and GDI. Especially using only top tier fuel
Mobil came out with a PAO synthetic aircraft engine oil in the late 80s, Mobil AV1. Aviation oils have to cope with lead combustion products from leaded Avgas and keep them in suspension. AV1 was supposed to have an additive package to do this. As it turned out, the PAO molecule is so slick compared to a mineral one (like a spaghetti noodle vs a piece of fuzzy yarn) it could not support the dispersant package and thus could not hold lead oxides in suspension. A "lead paint" crisis ensued, as lead settled out of the oil and coated the internals in a paint like hard coating, as well as sludging up oil galleries. Some engine failures resulted. Big class action lawsuit in the 90s and AV1 was withdrawn. The only PAO synthetic aviation oil is an Shell product, Aeroshell 15W50, that is half PAO and half mineral, enough to hold lead byproducts. The PAO component gives it a multigrade rating of 15W50 without VI improvers. Probably the best aviation oil out there. I use it. I run auto gas in my plane and if a full PAO synthetic was available, I'd use that.
I watched another presentation where Ceratec was considered "OK". Now it is on "bad" list. I have been using Porsche Classic 20W60 and it does not have Moly. My prev owner used 15w-45 Mobile 1. The chain cover was leaking some. I switched to Porsche Classic 20w-60 about 60K miles and 4 years ago and the oil leak has slowed down to a drop or two in a week. Apparently, Porsche classic contains "seal restore". MY 97 993 reached 120K recently, and it has been reliable. I like the idea of how moly works in an engine and started using Ceratec about 6K ago. I used the 2nd time after 5K miles oil change. I am wondering if adding Ceratec to Porsche 20W60 is a good idea.
Just a correction to something Lake said at 46 min. The ESP X3 is not the same as Supercar and not the same as the GM oil. ESP Formula 0W-40 was the GM oil that was rebranded Supercar 0W-40. ESP X3 is different and was designed by a separate group in a Porsche-sponsored program despite the fact that it does carry GM Dexos2 approval. I am sure they are somewhat similar oils but ESP X3 has higher HTHS and a different additive package.
I used a diesel fuel cleaner in my car one time and it was a big improvement better than any I've used they carry it at love's. For my 1997 s10 220,000.still running good with 40 psi oil preasure mostly i used mobile 1.and i have tryed to not go over 2000 to 2500miles at oil changes long block all original un touched. had to put intake gaskets on it .at 6 years old .the key is to let the gray permatex.(Japanese)sealer.let it setup then put on intake on tork.let it dry 24 hours before filling.than it last a long time.i had the dealer do it once but it leaked the next day.he was too fast not time to setup and harden before hardening.his second fix lasted only 3 years had to do it my self.10 years later still no leaks.the leak is at the front .the 4.3 l v6.very dependable motor for a domestic. the trans need oil changes often and kevlar frictions plates.
I had a chemical flush guy come to our shop and try to sell engine flush. I told him that the one and only time that i used an engine flush on a 100k engine, it spun a bearing within 10k miles. He said because if the 10k, it wasn't due to the flush. I believe otherwise.
Speaking of ZDDP, some years ago I had discovered I had a flat tappet lifter that had too fast of a leak down rate and would cause a miss at lower engine speeds, I thought that was a good reason to change the cam and install all new lifters since I assumed the factory 350 GM cam would have wear but I think that just caused me to go down a bad rabbit hole as the factory cam was in perfect condition. So it was a comp cam I put in and they pushed their own ZDDP additive for flat tappet cams they sell. Well I started using the additive as directed and I will never know if it was that or just engine wear that ultimately caused a lower connecting rod bearing to fail and that was the end of that engine. I never did pull the comp camp to see what it looked like but had pulled the crank and con rod caps to inspect, other than the one that went to crap and had to wonder why the bearings looked as questionable as they did. I have refrained from ever using the rest of the ZDDP I had bought, however I have been using half the bottle of GM lifter additive ( so half the volume they call for ) at each oil change after installing a brand new engine from GM and should I be ... good question, its been running fine and may very well without putting the GM additive in.
Someone asked about fuel systems cleaners, but I couldn’t understand. Did Lake say use fuel system cleaners once a year even if you always fill up with Top Tier gas (Shell premium)?
Was wondering if I should switch to using an engine flush before changing the oil, as my friend mechanic advised. Seems like it's not such a good idea!
I use Archoil in all my vehicles, one of which is a 911. I had a screeching coming from the engine. Intermittent. Started using Archoil additive and the sound went away. My cars crank over faster and get gas mileage higher than what is listed as usual for said car.
need an executive summary. good stuff though. i do send my oil samples for analysis, but i think once a year is good enough (considering in my track cars i change 2-3 times per year).
Good presentation, but really nothing here for those with air cooled engines. I've been running VR1 high zinc formula because it is reportedly better for my engine, but I was hoping for some info that would help with testing that idea.
VR1 high zinc is needed in air cooled Porsche and VW engines because they are flat tappet engine designs designed. The newer water cooled Porsche engines didn't use flat tappets.
Lake, you say not to put additives in oil especially those “Nano” type but right on Driven oils website they mention Nano technology. I’m confused 🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣.
Im guessing Marval Mystery oil treatment is a no go for oil? Even a half a once. I drive a 2000 infiniti i30 she runs great. Little over 285,000 miles.
Do you do oil analysis for the common man? If so, what’s the process. We own a 2011 Corolla with 180,000 miles and a 2014 Forester with 110,000. I’m curious about the oil after listening to this podcast
*Blackstone-Labs oil analysis service has been providing me answers since 1985. Automotive, aircraft (turbine or recip) or stationary engines, they do them all with a 2 ounce sample. Check them out. Cheers!*
Maybe I missed it. Was the Techron MARINE Fuel System Treatment the one recommended from Chevron? In other words did Lake expand on why the Marine version was included?
I have what I hope is a simple question. I am a firm believer in more oil changes more often than what may be given by the manufacturer. The thing I’m interested in is there any downside to oil changes to earlier than recommended like say three to four thousand miles when the oil is able to go ten or so thousand and when with recycling oil and cost is not an issue.
I think the only downside (other than the cost of changing often) is if there is oil in the filter. Always prelube the filter to prevent dry starts. I pour oil in the filter if on my other cars other than the Lexus, which I press the start button with the gas petal down to prelube gently tge Lexus.
I couldn’t agree more with the statements I guess I was wondering if some of the different components of the additive package are time initiating like say zddp is changing more often not giving a do they need the time to each work into doing their specific job or would all the individual additives do their part as they go through a normal heat cycle. So would more frequent changes not give any part of additive package the time to say activate and do its job within the mix.
Thank you Lake. Great presentation. My only question is the Ceratec was never tested alone. It was mixed w a flush which of course nullified any benefit of the ceratec. I would love to see how 'only' ceratec w the boron, Moly, small amount of zddp and calcium does mixed w a good oil and the the resulting wear metals. I am not a believer in additives either or trying to promote ceratec at all. But it does seem like that formulation (in ceratec) could' maybe' b an exception and help. But that is speculation not science. I would love to see a fair test w ceratec alone (mixed w a good oil) and look at wear metals and acidity/etc. Whatever the result is, is fine... But that's the only way to know. That's a fair question and scientific diagnostic thought process isnt it? I would really bet that if u did the wear metal test with just that liquid Moly flush... It would have come back w negative results. My guess is that it wasn't the ceratec that caused that. But maybe I'm wrong. Anyways... Just wanted to run that by u. I'm trying to b fair in my thinking and scientific w careful control groups and variables. Thanks Lake!
My car takes just over 5L of oil so I often top it off with another brand and now im worried im adding extra wear. Would 600ml of mobil 1 0w40 mixed with 5L of Pennzoil platinum 5w30 compromise the additive pack? Going to pick up an additional quart of matching oil next time.
I use Liquimoly TopTec 5w30 in a MK7 1.8TSI which is 502...I switched at 90k from 5w40 and Castrol to try and get to the 504.00, SP and newers standards like 229.52 which is mid-saps for GPF...I haven't done an oil analysis, but I'm curious beyond the marketing is it good oil? No issues by the way and consumption appears minimal if any...5k changes since 65k and about to cross 114k miles.
Shell makes synthetic based oils via ownership of Pennzoil that synthesizes oils from natural gas. I find it very odd that he does not mention this as in other videos he has good things to say about Pennzoil. Those companies are NOT the only four that make synthetis oils! He should have mentioned Shell!
if a company like liqui moly or total like to get an oem approval like vw 502 ...they need to pay 5 to 10 millions dollars or thay pickup the additive from infeniem without paying ??? please clear for as this situation !!!
OK, I could use some clarity here. At 30:47 minutes in, Lake presents an example of a BMW engine that showed good results using Liqui Moly 5w40, then shows a follow up where the owner used Liqui Moly 5w40 + Ceratec + LM Engine Flush. Lake states the three components were used at the SAME TIME (30:54). Is that correct? Read the bottle much? The flush is only used for 10-15 minutes at idle just before being removed with the old oil before an oil change. Did the BMW owner specify if they changed out the old oil with the engine flush in it? Did they do a proper oil change and add the Ceratec only with fresh oil? Of course the numbers and wear will jump significantly if the engine flush is still in there. Lake - will you please clarify? And great presentation! Thx!
That was my thought exactly. If the Engine Flush is staying in there, of course it's going to wear the Engine more. There is good reason why it's supposed to stay in the oil for 15 Minuten and RPM at idle. You don't wanna Put load in it while the Engine Flush is in there... I have Had good experiences with Ceratec and 5w 40 in my Volvo S70 2.4NA 170 HP 488T KM. I noticed That it Had better throttle Response and some more Power and smoother running Engine. I added it in to the Engine 5T KM after i did an oil Change... My dad also Had good luck using it in his VW Sharan. Greetings
@@clearclearerjesus4717 Yup, I use Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40 on my 2017 Macan GTS. I have used the Engine Flush and Ceratec on four engines. On my BMW N52 engine, it made a very noticeable difference in sound and smoothness. Same for my wife's Lexus IS350. Both of those cars were at about 130k miles when treated. I did not notice any difference on the Macan at 56k miles, and the other engine is a Toyota 1.8 liter in a Pontiac Vibe - it's a very basic car and a bit of a rattle-trap.
@@clearclearerjesus4717 Also, note that the viscosity on Lake's chart dropped into the caution zone for the second test. Is that a reflection of the Engine Flush? The Ceratec? Both?
It really does not matter. Engine oil additives are snake oil. If there were benefits to be had by throwing in a ton of relatively cheap additive, OEMs would already be doing it because lower friction lowers fuel consumption and lower wear means they can lower the viscosity and therefore get lower fuel consumption.
I'm wondering if Redline 0w40 which has an extreme additive package, including high-calcium, is too extreme for a (m278) Mercedes V8 bi-turbo, even with this engine specifies API (SN) oil. My understanding is that the low speed pre-ignition issues common in direct injection engines, actually affects the (low displacement) turbo engines, such as the 4 cylinder varieties.
Hi Nickery, I would highly recommend following the recommendation of Mercedes-Benz (in the manual), they know their engine better than anyone else. Ciao, L (FoMoCo engineer).
Sorry about the Tardy comment. This video just came to my attention. In response to the guy's question about Walmart oil, you pulled up your 3-supplier chart again. Of PAO. I'd be tempted to be my pension that the Walmart "Super Tech" brand and Costco's Kirland brand "synthetic", both made by Warren, are Group III dinosaur oil and probably not from one of those three PAO suppliers. Would I lose that bet? I have yet to hear to discuss that topic. Maybe it will come up in your upcoming second Q & A session? Looking forward to it.
Use the Techron Marine instead of Stabil it does more (longer stabilizer 2 yr plus has Techron which is PEA). I had advised Lake awhile back about the Marine product. By the way, you only use 1 oz per 10 gallons because it's that concentrated and can continually use it.
Engine Restore is shockingly good at reducing oil consumption and visible smoking in junk, worn out engines specifically with bad rings and cylinder bores.
I have known that General Motors oil life monitors are superior. One of the few things General Motors actually makes that are superior. The problem I have with General Motors is I've taken apart several LS motors, and when you have an average ring gap of 30,000. That is way too large of a gap. Your oil is not going to last very long and you're going to lose a lot of it. There's no reason why a 5.3 or a 6.0 should have anything larger than an .018 to 0.020 ring Gap. Total seal Rings would help tremendously. But that top ring still needs a much tighter gap. They do it for the fact that they're making these engines by the thousands. But if you can make it in 30 thou by the thousands, you can make it in 20 thou by the thousands. In addition, you made the comment on another video that fr3 did not do anything but to thin the oil. And the reason I have used very minimal amounts of fr3 a couple of times is precisely because Gale Banks has found that it offers less parasitic drag in the application of adding to your differential oil. What did Gale Banks miss. Exactly what is in fr3. Something you did not tell us. Is it only a very thin base oil or is there something actually in it that provides some sort of a service to the oil. And what about the additive link kite which is used in almost all aircraft internal combustion applications, and has been known to work for years. And that is what we now call zMAX. What does zMAX actually do. According to my understanding it actually soaks into the metal and helps keep carbon from sticking and keeps it soluble so that it can be rinsed out of the engine. Which should, reduce wear?
Thank you for posting this excellent presentation. I leave choice of oil in my 991 Turbo S to the technicians in the workshop at the Porsche Centre. Owning a 2000 BMW E39 M5 the choice of oil to suit its S62 V8 engine is a hard one. The MARKETING people at Castrol keep changing the formula of their 10W60 ‘Racing spec’ engine oil. My BMW specialist simply uses Mobil1 10W60 performance engine oil. I would appreciate receiving some advice! (Which I am willing to pay for)
Funny how he fails to mention that "Driven" oils have less film strength than many off the shelf Walmart oils. Seems to think that ZDDP makes any oil a winner. I agree a additive package makes or breaks any oil...not the amount of ZDDP. These are provable and repeatable tests. Likes to tout used oil samples, but has never addressed the fact that ZDDP depletion rates are miniscule in used oil samples. Kind of tells the tale on the continuing ZDDP myth. Measured film strength for Driven oils range from 47,000 t0 104,000 psi and are bested greatly by a boatload of other widely available and cheaper priced oils. Driven "break-in" oils are particularly weak even among other manufacturers similar offerings.
If you talk with a fuel engineer, they will tell you that the only good additive is an oil additive. The reality is that the same applies to fuel as to oil. If you need a fuel additive, you are using the wrong fuel. If you use Top Tier fuel from a name brand supplier, there is no need whatsoever for fuel additives.
There are so many anecdotal opinions on the internet/ RUclips. If you are a car guy, and you wanna respect someone with actual knowledge, Lake Speed Jr. is the Man !
Well said!
This guy is a genius. I've seen him around a few different parts of the internet and he knows everything there is to know out there, it seems.
We would have to agree. Always a pleasure having him on.
I love his videos where he is with really smart, experienced guys, and they are learning so much from him. Just a brilliant guy.
He’s an idiot
There're other earthlings that know all this oily stuff but Lil Lake is the first to expose all the truth on RUclips. All the other liars, opiners, snake oil salesman should run and hide, and delete their false information videos.
Hats off to Lake Speed Jr. Put yer hands on the oil bottle 🛢️💦👍👍
It’s ALL FACTUAL and that’s because Lake Speed is a man that loves or enjoys his job and he has expanded into more leanings or training from experience and backs himself up.
He is a dying breed of man who cares to share his knowledge.
THAT demands respect in my opinion.
We appreciate the kind words. Thank you for watching.
So how does the average guy pick the right oil
And for over 200 miles
Thanks to the Porsche Club for sharing this presentation. Getting granular helps push past marketing hype.
Our pleasure!
his presentation should've been longer also allow more time for questions and give them a microphone
Having someone with his knowledge is priceless he is answering so many questions that I've had for many years
Thank you for watching! We are glad it was helpful.
One of the best presentations on this subject I have ever heard.
I love when I come across people so passionate in the things they do. This man is a wealth of knowledge, and has a great way of teaching. It’s hard to align all those things…. Thanks for sharing !
Glad you enjoy it!
Tip for Lake during question and answers - Repeat the question or at least summarize it for the listeners that can't hear the question asked.
Most often you can guess what the question was based of the answer but not always.
noted.
Best RUclips info with no BS! Thank you and keep up the good work 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for watching.
Seeing the fuel dilution drop from 2.5 down to .93 just from a bottle of fuel treatment is so cool!
Thanks for watching!
Frequency of adding this PEA based fuel additive?
This
on motorcycle every 3 months or 3k km....
I use it as preventive maintenence. I add a half ounce of Redline or Starbright Ring clean to every tank instead of doing large doses periodically
That was incredibly insightful! Thank you Lake for helping us navigate the sea of marketing misinformation and thank you to the PCA for making this available to everyone.
I was just thinking... the oil marketing is actually impossible because there are what: almost 3 dozen fuel formulations in the US alone? They can't possibly nail down blow-by effects on engines coast to coast in a one size fits all additive package. The differences might be small, but they are there.
I worked for Mercedes Benz from 1970 to 1990
and they approved ONLY Techron for their fuel injection systems, back in 1980. Those lousy Single row timing chain 380 SL/SE/SEC engines had injector clogging. Techron cured rough idle, rough off idle, and restored injector spray patterns. Absolutely NO oil additives. And before synthetic oil, 15w/40 mineral oil was THE oil approved.
All hail Lake Speed Jr. for spreading oil good will 🛢️💦👍🏆🏁
I always bought the cheapest gas until one time I bought Chevron gas simply because it was the cheapest around and before the tank was gone, the car noticeably stopped shaking during idle and ran smoother all to be time. This was noticeable despite me not even trying to pay attention to that shake because I simply bought the Chevrolet gas because it was the cheapest.
He blinded me with science!
LOL
This guy was great. Thank you and thank you to PCA for being so awesome.
Always enjoy listening to Mr Speed. It would be helpful to hear the questions more clearly.
I am the guy who toldyou not to be close to the camera ,you are the man.God speed to you.
Every meachanic should have this fabulous tutor and bebhonest with customer
My only suggestion would be to repeat the crowd questions in the mic, or let them ask the questions in a mic.
noted
Really enjoyed this lecture. It was fun!!! Next time, just give a microphone to the audience asking questions. Congrats and thanks to the organizers as well.
Noted!
Not gonna lie.. little triggered with the Ceratec image lol and then the BMW, liquimoly engine flush and Ceratec example.. I was like dude how’d you know all that about me😂
Thanks for having time for us
*PCA, thank you for bringing the genius and passion of Lake Speed to the attention of those who may be unfamiliar with him. For those interested and aside from his Motor Oil Geeking (Tribology), Lake also has a major presence on Total Seal's Piston Rings channel. Worth a look. Cheers!*
Thanks! Simple takeaway for engine oil use the right one and change out a bit more frequently than manufacturers recommendation, all additives and flushes are basically not necessary then. However, do consider using good quality all fuel. System cleaner.
Always great info, but please, please mic up the audience if they're throwing questions!
noted🫡
Or have the presenter repeat the question.
48:30 is the advice 99% of us need. Match the spec and viscosity called for by the factory.
If you're in the 1% that wants to spend a lot more money, probably defeating the point of avoiding engine repair costs, then do oil analysis throughout the life of the engine.
You didn’t see the B degree
In another video he says: for B student do all C student + chose synthetic engine oil also add the fuel additives PEA.
@@ibrahimqari9189 49:08 "Cs get degrees."
I’ve used oil tested my diesel truck. Amsoil oil with ceratec additive. 6 oil changes and 60,000 miles. Never anything negative.
It would be the same or better without wasting your money on ceratec. 60k miles is nothing.
That’s one the best additive in the world.
I swear by it
unless you done oil analysis
Ceratec have given my cars better oil lab results. Ceratec is awesome.
Fuel additives might be ok for Port Fuel Injected engines, but not GDI engines. The Redline fuel treatment showed in the video, cleaned a small spot at the point of the GDI spray on top of the piston. The cheap base carrier oil makes up 90% of the cleaner, oxidizes quickly and leaves a black, carboneous, gummy residue in the chamber. This means problems for the valves, when reversion occurs and really bad for compression and oil control rings. I have borescope images before and after, showing this problem. I had another friend do the same, in his GDI engines. Borescope images were the same.
You should check out hit video on valvoline restore and protect, specifically deals with gdi
You realize he was talking about regular port injection to this seminar?? He has videos on his channel about fuel additives and GDI. Especially using only top tier fuel
@bigdaddymak1439 he doesn't make a distinction between either. Don't add oil to the gas and keep gas out of the oil.
Great info!
Wish we could hear the questions of the Q&A portion tho.
Most people have no clue how smart that man is! An absolute genius with his craft!
Indeed he is!
Mobil came out with a PAO synthetic aircraft engine oil in the late 80s, Mobil AV1. Aviation oils have to cope with lead combustion products from leaded Avgas and keep them in suspension. AV1 was supposed to have an additive package to do this. As it turned out, the PAO molecule is so slick compared to a mineral one (like a spaghetti noodle vs a piece of fuzzy yarn) it could not support the dispersant package and thus could not hold lead oxides in suspension. A "lead paint" crisis ensued, as lead settled out of the oil and coated the internals in a paint like hard coating, as well as sludging up oil galleries. Some engine failures resulted. Big class action lawsuit in the 90s and AV1 was withdrawn. The only PAO synthetic aviation oil is an Shell product, Aeroshell 15W50, that is half PAO and half mineral, enough to hold lead byproducts. The PAO component gives it a multigrade rating of 15W50 without VI improvers. Probably the best aviation oil out there. I use it. I run auto gas in my plane and if a full PAO synthetic was available, I'd use that.
*Well said. Everyone I know who run recips use, therefore bet their lives on Aeroshell. That and CamGuard. Blackstone Labs tells the tale. Cheers!*
I remember this well. Even the experts get it wrong now and then. Always keep that in mind.
@@JK-rv9tp
I thought it was the Polyolester that didnt hold additives in suspension and that’s why PAO’s were used ? 🤷♂️🤣
Please have the speakers repeat the questions in the future - they are inaudible.
I really enjoy the videos this guy has been making and posting.
We are happy to hear that. Thanks for watching.
Great video Lake, easy to follow and very informative.
Thanks for watching. Happy to hear you enjoyed it.
i'm in Maine. if i'm going anywhere it's an hour away. if i'm going down the road a piece, i use a 4x4 or snow machine.
Thanks but it would have been helpful if we could hear the questions from the audience.
For sure. Thanks for the feedback. We’ll be handing a microphone to questioners for the next Tech Tactics presentations we record.
I watched another presentation where Ceratec was considered "OK". Now it is on "bad" list. I have been using Porsche Classic 20W60 and it does not have Moly. My prev owner used 15w-45 Mobile 1. The chain cover was leaking some. I switched to Porsche Classic 20w-60 about 60K miles and 4 years ago and the oil leak has slowed down to a drop or two in a week. Apparently, Porsche classic contains "seal restore". MY 97 993 reached 120K recently, and it has been reliable. I like the idea of how moly works in an engine and started using Ceratec about 6K ago. I used the 2nd time after 5K miles oil change. I am wondering if adding Ceratec to Porsche 20W60 is a good idea.
I just use what Porsche recommends: Mobil1. I have a 991.2.
You get a C
Man this was such a nice treat on a Sunday morning 👌🙃😁
Glad you enjoyed it
Just a correction to something Lake said at 46 min. The ESP X3 is not the same as Supercar and not the same as the GM oil. ESP Formula 0W-40 was the GM oil that was rebranded Supercar 0W-40. ESP X3 is different and was designed by a separate group in a Porsche-sponsored program despite the fact that it does carry GM Dexos2 approval. I am sure they are somewhat similar oils but ESP X3 has higher HTHS and a different additive package.
I used a diesel fuel cleaner in my car one time and it was a big improvement better than any I've used they carry it at love's. For my 1997 s10 220,000.still running good with 40 psi oil preasure mostly i used mobile 1.and i have tryed to not go over 2000 to 2500miles at oil changes long block all original un touched. had to put intake gaskets on it .at 6 years old .the key is to let the gray permatex.(Japanese)sealer.let it setup then put on intake on tork.let it dry 24 hours before filling.than it last a long time.i had the dealer do it once but it leaked the next day.he was too fast not time to setup and harden before hardening.his second fix lasted only 3 years had to do it my self.10 years later still no leaks.the leak is at the front .the 4.3 l v6.very dependable motor for a domestic. the trans need oil changes often and kevlar frictions plates.
I had a chemical flush guy come to our shop and try to sell engine flush. I told him that the one and only time that i used an engine flush on a 100k engine, it spun a bearing within 10k miles.
He said because if the 10k, it wasn't due to the flush. I believe otherwise.
Speaking of ZDDP, some years ago I had discovered I had a flat tappet lifter that had too fast of a leak down rate and would cause a miss at lower engine speeds, I thought that was a good reason to change the cam and install all new lifters since I assumed the factory 350 GM cam would have wear but I think that just caused me to go down a bad rabbit hole as the factory cam was in perfect condition. So it was a comp cam I put in and they pushed their own ZDDP additive for flat tappet cams they sell. Well I started using the additive as directed and I will never know if it was that or just engine wear that ultimately caused a lower connecting rod bearing to fail and that was the end of that engine. I never did pull the comp camp to see what it looked like but had pulled the crank and con rod caps to inspect, other than the one that went to crap and had to wonder why the bearings looked as questionable as they did. I have refrained from ever using the rest of the ZDDP I had bought, however I have been using half the bottle of GM lifter additive ( so half the volume they call for ) at each oil change after installing a brand new engine from GM and should I be ... good question, its been running fine and may very well without putting the GM additive in.
Thank you for sharing this video for all of the internet to see
Our pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it.
Great video and information, is there a difference between the 10oz and 12oz Gumout all in one?
2-4% Mos2 to the oil in old engines is fine Army does the same
nahhh synthetic oil so good for that.... if you use old oil too....but if you used today's oil.... not good idea....
I’ve been doing everything Lake said not to do :(
We are glad this video was helpful! Now you know.
Presenter should always repeat the questions from the unamplified audience.
You knows he’s honest when he says he hates oil marketing
Engine flush should not have been combined with Ceratec. He should have tested Ceratec alone.
Did he mix them or the client 🤔
His customer did it he's just showing you oil sample results
Ceratec improved my oil lab results.
Why doesn't any tester ever go over the BG additives? Good luck finding it, I would love to see it.
Because BG is Snake Oil, the only reason dealers push those products is because BG gives spiffs to the techs and service writers to sell it.
@AJ-bp9th Testing would be nice to see it. It's mind-boggling that you can't find it.
Lab analytics cost money and some things just aren’t worth the time or money
@@svgs650r that doesn't add up.
@@realdeal5883 of course it does
Man I was hoping he was going to test a car with mystic marvel in the oil.
Yea me too that would have been a real mystery solved. But that oil solved a problem in WW2 and probably does not apply today.
Someone asked about fuel systems cleaners, but I couldn’t understand. Did Lake say use fuel system cleaners once a year even if you always fill up with Top Tier gas (Shell premium)?
Yes in the USA for they are lacking
Was wondering if I should switch to using an engine flush before changing the oil, as my friend mechanic advised. Seems like it's not such a good idea!
I use Archoil in all my vehicles, one of which is a 911. I had a screeching coming from the engine. Intermittent. Started using Archoil additive and the sound went away. My cars crank over faster and get gas mileage higher than what is listed as usual for said car.
need an executive summary. good stuff though. i do send my oil samples for analysis, but i think once a year is good enough (considering in my track cars i change 2-3 times per year).
My mother worked at Southwest Research back in the early 70s.
Good presentation, but really nothing here for those with air cooled engines. I've been running VR1 high zinc formula because it is reportedly better for my engine, but I was hoping for some info that would help with testing that idea.
VR1 high zinc is needed in air cooled Porsche and VW engines because they are flat tappet engine designs designed. The newer water cooled Porsche engines didn't use flat tappets.
@@mikedx2706 It's needed for small air-cooled engines too (portable generators, lawn mowers, power washers and other fast, hot running engines).
Lake, you say not to put additives in oil especially those “Nano” type but right on Driven oils website they mention Nano technology. I’m confused 🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣.
Great presentation and very informative! Thanks for doing this!
Is there a benefit of using pea fuel additives in a more concentrated dose than recommended?
Im guessing Marval Mystery oil treatment is a no go for oil? Even a half a once. I drive a 2000 infiniti i30 she runs great. Little over 285,000 miles.
Do you do oil analysis for the common man? If so, what’s the process. We own a 2011 Corolla with 180,000 miles and a 2014 Forester with 110,000. I’m curious about the oil after listening to this podcast
*Blackstone-Labs oil analysis service has been providing me answers since 1985. Automotive, aircraft (turbine or recip) or stationary engines, they do them all with a 2 ounce sample. Check them out. Cheers!*
Any recommendations for a fuel additive for diesel?
Maybe I missed it. Was the Techron MARINE Fuel System Treatment the one recommended from Chevron? In other words did Lake expand on why the Marine version was included?
Because It also has a fuel stabilizer.
I have what I hope is a simple question. I am a firm believer in more oil changes more often than what may be given by the manufacturer. The thing I’m interested in is there any downside to oil changes to earlier than recommended like say three to four thousand miles when the oil is able to go ten or so thousand and when with recycling oil and cost is not an issue.
Absolutely no downside other than the cost of more frequent fluid changes.
I think the only downside (other than the cost of changing often) is if there is oil in the filter. Always prelube the filter to prevent dry starts. I pour oil in the filter if on my other cars other than the Lexus, which I press the start button with the gas petal down to prelube gently tge Lexus.
I couldn’t agree more with the statements I guess I was wondering if some of the different components of the additive package are time initiating like say zddp is changing more often not giving a do they need the time to each work into doing their specific job or would all the individual additives do their part as they go through a normal heat cycle. So would more frequent changes not give any part of additive package the time to say activate and do its job within the mix.
Thank you Lake. Great presentation. My only question is the Ceratec was never tested alone. It was mixed w a flush which of course nullified any benefit of the ceratec. I would love to see how 'only' ceratec w the boron, Moly, small amount of zddp and calcium does mixed w a good oil and the the resulting wear metals. I am not a believer in additives either or trying to promote ceratec at all. But it does seem like that formulation (in ceratec) could' maybe' b an exception and help. But that is speculation not science. I would love to see a fair test w ceratec alone (mixed w a good oil) and look at wear metals and acidity/etc. Whatever the result is, is fine... But that's the only way to know. That's a fair question and scientific diagnostic thought process isnt it? I would really bet that if u did the wear metal test with just that liquid Moly flush... It would have come back w negative results. My guess is that it wasn't the ceratec that caused that. But maybe I'm wrong. Anyways... Just wanted to run that by u. I'm trying to b fair in my thinking and scientific w careful control groups and variables. Thanks Lake!
I agree. It's kinda pointless talking of cera Tec with the engine flush. It actually leaves people more confused instead of providing insight
My car takes just over 5L of oil so I often top it off with another brand and now im worried im adding extra wear. Would 600ml of mobil 1 0w40 mixed with 5L of Pennzoil platinum 5w30 compromise the additive pack? Going to pick up an additional quart of matching oil next time.
You got a D😂
I use Liquimoly TopTec 5w30 in a MK7 1.8TSI which is 502...I switched at 90k from 5w40 and Castrol to try and get to the 504.00, SP and newers standards like 229.52 which is mid-saps for GPF...I haven't done an oil analysis, but I'm curious beyond the marketing is it good oil? No issues by the way and consumption appears minimal if any...5k changes since 65k and about to cross 114k miles.
FYI Petronas Malaysia makes their own base oil and additive
Great video! Thanks for posting and sharing.👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Shell makes synthetic based oils via ownership of Pennzoil that synthesizes oils from natural gas. I find it very odd that he does not mention this as in other videos he has good things to say about Pennzoil. Those companies are NOT the only four that make synthetis oils! He should have mentioned Shell!
Wow, awesome stuff here.
Is it best to choose an oil and stick with it for the life of the vehicle?
How long is that ? Very likely the oil formulation of that brand will change more than once during the life of your car
Is pro lube good ?
So the final verdict is that Cera Tec is bad for your engine? The answer was not clear in the presentation?
Is it ok to use a diesel oil with the same 5w40 on a gasoline engine? As diesel oil has more additive package
It may have more, but the additives are geared for use in a gas engine.
Good stuff!
if a company like liqui moly or total like to get an oem approval like vw 502 ...they need to pay 5 to 10 millions dollars or thay pickup the additive from infeniem without paying ???
please clear for as this situation !!!
OK, I could use some clarity here. At 30:47 minutes in, Lake presents an example of a BMW engine that showed good results using Liqui Moly 5w40, then shows a follow up where the owner used Liqui Moly 5w40 + Ceratec + LM Engine Flush. Lake states the three components were used at the SAME TIME (30:54). Is that correct? Read the bottle much? The flush is only used for 10-15 minutes at idle just before being removed with the old oil before an oil change. Did the BMW owner specify if they changed out the old oil with the engine flush in it? Did they do a proper oil change and add the Ceratec only with fresh oil? Of course the numbers and wear will jump significantly if the engine flush is still in there.
Lake - will you please clarify? And great presentation! Thx!
That was my thought exactly. If the Engine Flush is staying in there, of course it's going to wear the Engine more. There is good reason why it's supposed to stay in the oil for 15 Minuten and RPM at idle. You don't wanna Put load in it while the Engine Flush is in there... I have Had good experiences with Ceratec and 5w 40 in my Volvo S70 2.4NA 170 HP 488T KM. I noticed That it Had better throttle Response and some more Power and smoother running Engine. I added it in to the Engine 5T KM after i did an oil Change...
My dad also Had good luck using it in his VW Sharan.
Greetings
@@clearclearerjesus4717 Yup, I use Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech SAE 5W-40 on my 2017 Macan GTS. I have used the Engine Flush and Ceratec on four engines. On my BMW N52 engine, it made a very noticeable difference in sound and smoothness. Same for my wife's Lexus IS350. Both of those cars were at about 130k miles when treated. I did not notice any difference on the Macan at 56k miles, and the other engine is a Toyota 1.8 liter in a Pontiac Vibe - it's a very basic car and a bit of a rattle-trap.
@@clearclearerjesus4717 Also, note that the viscosity on Lake's chart dropped into the caution zone for the second test. Is that a reflection of the Engine Flush? The Ceratec? Both?
Yeah his research, excuse me experience is incomplete. This would have been complete if he would have included Ceratec and BG.
It really does not matter. Engine oil additives are snake oil. If there were benefits to be had by throwing in a ton of relatively cheap additive, OEMs would already be doing it because lower friction lowers fuel consumption and lower wear means they can lower the viscosity and therefore get lower fuel consumption.
I'm wondering if Redline 0w40 which has an extreme additive package, including high-calcium, is too extreme for a (m278) Mercedes V8 bi-turbo, even with this engine specifies API (SN) oil. My understanding is that the low speed pre-ignition issues common in direct injection engines, actually affects the (low displacement) turbo engines, such as the 4 cylinder varieties.
Hi Nickery, I would highly recommend following the recommendation of Mercedes-Benz (in the manual), they know their engine better than anyone else. Ciao, L (FoMoCo engineer).
Sorry about the Tardy comment. This video just came to my attention. In response to the guy's question about Walmart oil, you pulled up your 3-supplier chart again. Of PAO.
I'd be tempted to be my pension that the Walmart "Super Tech" brand and Costco's Kirland brand "synthetic", both made by Warren, are Group III dinosaur oil and probably not from one of those three PAO suppliers. Would I lose that bet? I have yet to hear to discuss that topic. Maybe it will come up in your upcoming second Q & A session? Looking forward to it.
Awesome vid !
Well done. Thank you.
Great presentation! What is your opinion on Stabil?
Use the Techron Marine instead of Stabil it does more (longer stabilizer 2 yr plus has Techron which is PEA). I had advised Lake awhile back about the Marine product. By the way, you only use 1 oz per 10 gallons because it's that concentrated and can continually use it.
@@Duchydog *Thank you for the tip. Stabil user for decades in seasonal-use vehicle applications, will now give Techron Marine a go. Cheers!*
Is shell/Pennzoil under Chevron ?
Sir: What's your take on Berryman's B-12 Chemtool?!
geat tip on SP for low speed det!! THANK YOU!!
Happy to help!
What about bg 44 injecter cleaner?
I had a beloved ford ranger I bought new, about 50 thousand miles in I decided to start using mobile 1 oil, it leaked oil like crazy after that
Hi John, so what is your conclusion/recommendation? Ciao, L (fellow Porsche enthusiast)
Should you use engine restore to fill in cylinder scratches
Use Oil Extreme Concentrate.
Engine Restore is shockingly good at reducing oil consumption and visible smoking in junk, worn out engines specifically with bad rings and cylinder bores.
NOTHING bonds to cylinder walls. They are coated with oil.
@@gregorymalchuk272 First think to check would be Your Engine Oils Noack Volatility Rating.... The lower the number the better.
I have known that General Motors oil life monitors are superior. One of the few things General Motors actually makes that are superior. The problem I have with General Motors is I've taken apart several LS motors, and when you have an average ring gap of 30,000. That is way too large of a gap. Your oil is not going to last very long and you're going to lose a lot of it. There's no reason why a 5.3 or a 6.0 should have anything larger than an .018 to 0.020 ring Gap. Total seal Rings would help tremendously. But that top ring still needs a much tighter gap. They do it for the fact that they're making these engines by the thousands. But if you can make it in 30 thou by the thousands, you can make it in 20 thou by the thousands.
In addition, you made the comment on another video that fr3 did not do anything but to thin the oil. And the reason I have used very minimal amounts of fr3 a couple of times is precisely because Gale Banks has found that it offers less parasitic drag in the application of adding to your differential oil. What did Gale Banks miss.
Exactly what is in fr3. Something you did not tell us. Is it only a very thin base oil or is there something actually in it that provides some sort of a service to the oil.
And what about the additive link kite which is used in almost all aircraft internal combustion applications, and has been known to work for years. And that is what we now call zMAX. What does zMAX actually do. According to my understanding it actually soaks into the metal and helps keep carbon from sticking and keeps it soluble so that it can be rinsed out of the engine. Which should, reduce wear?
Imagine how all the university qualified chemists must feel.
It's probably the same as how Steve Wozniak felt when he had to watch Steve Jobs.
Ive been reading all my oil labels. Seems the Super Tech from Walmart advanced full synthetic checks all the boxes
Priceless!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for posting this excellent presentation. I leave choice of oil in my 991 Turbo S to the technicians in the workshop at the Porsche Centre. Owning a 2000 BMW E39 M5 the choice of oil to suit its S62 V8 engine is a hard one. The MARKETING people at Castrol keep changing the formula of their 10W60 ‘Racing spec’ engine oil. My BMW specialist simply uses Mobil1 10W60 performance engine oil.
I would appreciate receiving some advice! (Which I am willing to pay for)
Do an oil analysis and find out
@@thestigisme2349 thank you - will do!
Do not use 10W60 , try 5W30
Must watch!!!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Funny how he fails to mention that "Driven" oils have less film strength than many off the shelf Walmart oils. Seems to think that ZDDP makes any oil a winner. I agree a additive package makes or breaks any oil...not the amount of ZDDP. These are provable and repeatable tests. Likes to tout used oil samples, but has never addressed the fact that ZDDP depletion rates are miniscule in used oil samples. Kind of tells the tale on the continuing ZDDP myth. Measured film strength for Driven oils range from 47,000 t0 104,000 psi and are bested greatly by a boatload of other widely available and cheaper priced oils. Driven "break-in" oils are particularly weak even among other manufacturers similar offerings.
Quite the mystery!
7:14 7:18 LAC = *_Least Additive Concentration_*
If you talk with a fuel engineer, they will tell you that the only good additive is an oil additive. The reality is that the same applies to fuel as to oil. If you need a fuel additive, you are using the wrong fuel. If you use Top Tier fuel from a name brand supplier, there is no need whatsoever for fuel additives.