Greyscale image with dithering eg. Jarvis and correct speed and power settings always comes out perfect with just a quick wipe with cloth. Glass is recommended 508dpi / 0.05li 1.5inch lens with my smaller BODOR 40w CO2 which has smaller dot size too works brilliant for glass. Higher power lasers have larger dot size. Have never needed to use a brush.
Hi Matt, I own a trophy company and do tons of glass awards. I make the text 80% grey (using Corel Draw) and I reverse the text so I can engrave the back of the glass. Looks real nice after the engraving. I also wet a piece of newspaper to lay on top to give it a nice frost look. I'm using an Epilog Fusion Edge 50W. The sanding pads you're using are used alot in wood turning on a lathe. I use to use them when I would make pens. They would shine up the acrylic on them. Love your videos.
When I do glass products (I don't have laser) I just cut vinyl to a stencil put on the glass and sand blast it, it works like charm, just remove the stencil wash it and it is good to go. I know laser is the faster way for sure but it is waaaay cheeper this way which is kinda break trough for me. I can't aford laser at this point. Thanks for the great video.
Can’t directly do glass on the XTool because the wavelength of the blue diode laser passes right through. But you can coat it and laser on top of the coating. Some guys have used black paint, but I had really good results with enduramark (the one for printing on stainless). I think the enduramark + diode actually looks nicer than my CO2
Hey Curt. When you use the Enduramark do you get a white finish or is it a different color? Never tried to use Enduramark on glass but its on my "To Try" list now. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@jasons1334 it gives a nice frosted look. No color. Sometimes I get some black marks (it’s very likely something I’m doing wrong there) but with the diode laser, you can just clean off the enduramark and go over the area again without worrying about engraving the wrong areas because the blue light just passes right through
I use a much smaller wire brush but will try the sanding method. I have plenty of those sanding pads I use for acrylic pens on the lathe. I generally use them wet, so you may want to try that.
I have an 80 W Omtech CO2 laser and I want to engrave photographs on glass ornaments and glass plaques but can't seem to get it to work. I will send you an image if you will help me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I use Speed 30 and Power of 100 with a DPI of 300 as recommended by the company I buy my products from but it still doesn't work. It just comes out as a white blob. Thank you so much. I really love your channel you explain things so everyone can understand what you mean. Not everyone else does that.
Hey Matt! Great Video! Currently with my Diode laser you can't actually engrave/etch the glass like Curt Hayes said. When I engrave glass with my diode laser I will paint a coat of Tempura Paint over the top of the glass and then have the laser run its pattern. Once done all you have to do is run the glass under water like you do with the Enduramark or CerMark and the paint washes right off and your left with a really nice design with a white/frosty look. I get my Tempura Paint from the dollar store so it's a very inexpensive cost to use it. I'd also recommend going to the dollar store or a second hand store to buy used picture frames and mirrors to practice on. Thanks again for everything!
Hey Matt love your videos. Good to know micro mesh works with the glass. They are for using on a lathe. I use it for when Making acrylic pens on the lathe
Hey Matt! Great video. I really appreciate all of the information on your channel! When talking about the dishwasher, it’s been my understanding that it’s not the actual washing of the glass that could cause issues, but the excessive heat that dishwashers use. The concern is that the heat causes the micro-fractures created by the laser to expand and create new shards of glass. I honestly don’t know if that actually happens, though. I mean, the laser that creates the initial fracturing is slightly hotter than a dishwasher… 😏🤔🤷🏻♂️
Thanks. I can ensure you that that doesn’t happen well at least to the glasses that I have in the cabinet that I have edched for fun they have never done that and my kids use them
Using a k40, I use around 30% power and 150mm/s speed. Sometimes on pint glasses it seems to skip letters. Generally not too bad but need to dial it in better
I just saw your video and it was great! I have an Aeon Mira 9 90 watt CO2 Laser and I took a glass award to engrave and it was on a base that did not come off so I tried to level it as much as possible; however, toward the top of the award the engrave looked great but at the bottom, it was full of dark (soot?) in the letters and I could not get it out. Could the problem possibly be that it wasn't totally level? Or would you have other suggestions?
Great Vidclip Matt ..... Greetings from Christchurch, New Zealand .... A Very Informative vidclip ..... BUT .... I only have a 20W Diode Laser ..... :-) :-) :-) ..... Best to You and Yours ....
Your link to the 3D printer you use is broken! Another great video!! I am new to laser printing. I purchased a 100W laser and I have it setup, but yet to do my first test cut.
Hey Matt, awesome videos mate. We have a small laser business here in Australia and we have a Thunder Nova 51 and seem to e getting some blurring of our text when engraving. Have you encountered this? If so any tips or hints on a fix? Cheers Mate
Not sure if this has been asked chief, but have u done a video on laser glasses? I just picked up a laserpeker 2 and wanted to get some better glasses. Can really use a seasoned vets input
Have you ever tried a brass brush? Just curious since its so much softer than stainless. I'm about to get a laser or two, these videos are helping greatly to prepare. Thanks for the great content!
Matt, I noticed that the sanding discs that you show come as a set of varying grits. I assume that the purple one you use is the finest grit one. Does it scratch the glass at all? I used to use a scotchbrite sponge and that would leave scratches on the glass.
I ended up losing a $1k job because I couldn’t get through the flaking. I was using 0000 steel wool to smooth out the rough edges and it worked well, but it would flake off pieces and make it look like crap!
60 watt Epilog laser and I was chipping like crazy - do you put anything on the glass ahead of time? Is your recommended power setting always 100% and you only adjust the speed?
I take my hat off to you. I don't know how you run such a successful business. I'm on my own. Live in a foreign land. No friends or family. I have a website, Facebook page and on ETSY. I'm trying to sell my laser made products but getting no bites at all. Not one sale since December last year when I got my 50W JPT Fiber Laser. I also have an xTool D1 Pro 10W. Savings are running out and I'm in a pickle. No income for 2 years in total now. I can only survive for 3 more months. After that. Well....
@@laserengravingwithmatt then why did you discuss that your laser can use it but not all can? this may cause people to think they need an epilog or something more expensive.
@@laserengravingwithmatt I do. But I can also use Coreldraw if I want. I have tested the different dithering features in lightburn on my omtech and it works fine.
Hello Matt I see you use transfer tape 12" x 100' from Amazon. I buy from sign whare house 12" x 300' for double of what you pay on Amazon. Just thought I'd pass on some information on a better deal. See me later 😊😊
Why would you use such course sanding disks on glass? Wash it with glass cleaner under water and dry with a paper towel or cloth. Jeez why screw up your work.
I'm late to the game here... I've noticed that the glass surface once engraved, is micro fractured as you have just proven. If you look at the engraving up close, it is shocking. It's not engraved at all. It is fractured on the surface. When you remove all the frosting as you call it, you will notice molten glass. I can't bring myself to sell an item of this poor (but beautiful) quality.
This is based on my personal experience using a diode laser. I am not slating your good work and efforts. Good video by the way and it just enforces what I thought about my own glass work. I thought I was doing something wrong.
Greyscale image with dithering eg. Jarvis and correct speed and power settings always comes out perfect with just a quick wipe with cloth. Glass is recommended 508dpi / 0.05li 1.5inch lens with my smaller BODOR 40w CO2 which has smaller dot size too works brilliant for glass. Higher power lasers have larger dot size. Have never needed to use a brush.
Hi Matt, I own a trophy company and do tons of glass awards. I make the text 80% grey (using Corel Draw) and I reverse the text so I can engrave the back of the glass. Looks real nice after the engraving. I also wet a piece of newspaper to lay on top to give it a nice frost look. I'm using an Epilog Fusion Edge 50W. The sanding pads you're using are used alot in wood turning on a lathe. I use to use them when I would make pens. They would shine up the acrylic on them.
Love your videos.
Thanks 😃
When I do glass products (I don't have laser) I just cut vinyl to a stencil put on the glass and sand blast it, it works like charm, just remove the stencil wash it and it is good to go. I know laser is the faster way for sure but it is waaaay cheeper this way which is kinda break trough for me. I can't aford laser at this point. Thanks for the great video.
Hey we all started somewhere. You are doing great 👍😃
Can’t directly do glass on the XTool because the wavelength of the blue diode laser passes right through. But you can coat it and laser on top of the coating. Some guys have used black paint, but I had really good results with enduramark (the one for printing on stainless). I think the enduramark + diode actually looks nicer than my CO2
Thanks I will have to try that.
Hey Curt. When you use the Enduramark do you get a white finish or is it a different color? Never tried to use Enduramark on glass but its on my "To Try" list now. Thanks for the suggestion.
I use dry moly on glass with my diode lasers, get a nice result
@@jasons1334 it gives a nice frosted look. No color.
Sometimes I get some black marks (it’s very likely something I’m doing wrong there) but with the diode laser, you can just clean off the enduramark and go over the area again without worrying about engraving the wrong areas because the blue light just passes right through
I use blue painter’s tape and get very good results… Maybe give that a stab?
I use a much smaller wire brush but will try the sanding method. I have plenty of those sanding pads I use for acrylic pens on the lathe. I generally use them wet, so you may want to try that.
I will give that a try
I have an 80 W Omtech CO2 laser and I want to engrave photographs on glass ornaments and glass plaques but can't seem to get it to work. I will send you an image if you will help me figure out what I'm doing wrong. I use Speed 30 and Power of 100 with a DPI of 300 as recommended by the company I buy my products from but it still doesn't work. It just comes out as a white blob. Thank you so much. I really love your channel you explain things so everyone can understand what you mean. Not everyone else does that.
Yeah send a email and I will help you out.
Matt, I just want to say that I really enjoy your videos well shot, well narrated , keep on keeping on. Wayne Columbia md.
Thanks 😃
Hey Matt! Great Video! Currently with my Diode laser you can't actually engrave/etch the glass like Curt Hayes said. When I engrave glass with my diode laser I will paint a coat of Tempura Paint over the top of the glass and then have the laser run its pattern. Once done all you have to do is run the glass under water like you do with the Enduramark or CerMark and the paint washes right off and your left with a really nice design with a white/frosty look. I get my Tempura Paint from the dollar store so it's a very inexpensive cost to use it. I'd also recommend going to the dollar store or a second hand store to buy used picture frames and mirrors to practice on. Thanks again for everything!
Thanks for the tips 😃
Hey Matt love your videos. Good to know micro mesh works with the glass. They are for using on a lathe. I use it for when Making acrylic pens on the lathe
@3:48 -That's EXACTLY what we all do at our lasers, can't nobody deny it! LOL
😂🤣
Hey Matt! Great video. I really appreciate all of the information on your channel! When talking about the dishwasher, it’s been my understanding that it’s not the actual washing of the glass that could cause issues, but the excessive heat that dishwashers use. The concern is that the heat causes the micro-fractures created by the laser to expand and create new shards of glass. I honestly don’t know if that actually happens, though. I mean, the laser that creates the initial fracturing is slightly hotter than a dishwasher… 😏🤔🤷🏻♂️
Thanks. I can ensure you that that doesn’t happen well at least to the glasses that I have in the cabinet that I have edched for fun they have never done that and my kids use them
@@laserengravingwithmatt Good to know! Thanks for the reply!
We have a Boss LS1630 70w we are struggling with the settings can you help please?
What’s wrong
Using a k40, I use around 30% power and 150mm/s speed. Sometimes on pint glasses it seems to skip letters. Generally not too bad but need to dial it in better
I would try slowing it down a little bit if it’s skipping. I had to do that with my legend.
I just saw your video and it was great! I have an Aeon Mira 9 90 watt CO2 Laser and I took a glass award to engrave and it was on a base that did not come off so I tried to level it as much as possible; however, toward the top of the award the engrave looked great but at the bottom, it was full of dark (soot?) in the letters and I could not get it out. Could the problem possibly be that it wasn't totally level? Or would you have other suggestions?
Dark suit? You shouldn’t have dark search from glass. I would look at your beam alignment if it was level.
Very informative! If I want to make the text black or white (not just frosted), how can I accomplish that?
You would have to use Caremark it’s a spray
Great videos. Why do you refer to your speed as a percentage?
That is what Epilog uses
Great Vidclip Matt ..... Greetings from Christchurch, New Zealand .... A Very Informative vidclip ..... BUT .... I only have a 20W Diode Laser ..... :-) :-) :-) ..... Best to You and Yours ....
Your link to the 3D printer you use is broken! Another great video!! I am new to laser printing. I purchased a 100W laser and I have it setup, but yet to do my first test cut.
Thanks I will take a look at that. 100 watt. Nice
Hey Matt, awesome videos mate. We have a small laser business here in Australia and we have a Thunder Nova 51 and seem to e getting some blurring of our text when engraving. Have you encountered this? If so any tips or hints on a fix? Cheers Mate
Thanks. I would check your mirrors and clean them all really good if it still is doing the same thing check your focus
@@laserengravingwithmatt thanks mate. Will do. 🙂
I would love to see a video on how you guys manage your business while on vacation.
I can do that.
Great video,, Why do they say to use that cer mar pain. jim
Thanks. No I do not use cermark
I would Love to see the diode version of this glass test
Which grit sanding disc did you use in this video. The link is for a multi grit pack.
The four highest ones you can use
Have you tried the sandpaper on the 20w xTool glass yet? Got your paper & more link in the cart! For a new company. They are blowing out the sales.
No I haven’t yet
Not sure if this has been asked chief, but have u done a video on laser glasses? I just picked up a laserpeker 2 and wanted to get some better glasses. Can really use a seasoned vets input
This should help and plenty more of them. ruclips.net/video/FHi5M0MQz38/видео.html
So with an Epilog that has the Jarvis option do you just use full black and select Jarvis or still use a gray even with Jarvis. Nice videos
I use gray with Jarvis
how do you guys ship glasses to minimize breakage? Sorry if this was asked before..thanks
Sara has a video on that. ruclips.net/video/TEUHJ5eNwCA/видео.html
Have you ever tried a brass brush? Just curious since its so much softer than stainless. I'm about to get a laser or two, these videos are helping greatly to prepare. Thanks for the great content!
No I have. The sanding pads works so good that I just use them.
Matt, I noticed that the sanding discs that you show come as a set of varying grits. I assume that the purple one you use is the finest grit one. Does it scratch the glass at all? I used to use a scotchbrite sponge and that would leave scratches on the glass.
I use the top three fine ones and have never had scratched the glass.
@@laserengravingwithmatt Great. Love your videos. I run an OmTech MF1220-50. I also live right next door in Wisconsin.
That’s awesome. Hello 👋
I have an Xtool M1. What's the best way to engrave glass?
I don’t know I don’t have a m1
Hi Matt, you are cute, enjoy your video. Btw, what's the power of your Co2 laser?
Thanks 😊. 60watt
@@laserengravingwithmatt thank you.
I’d love to know what settings you got on your xtool P2 for glass?
I will make a video on it
I ended up losing a $1k job because I couldn’t get through the flaking. I was using 0000 steel wool to smooth out the rough edges and it worked well, but it would flake off pieces and make it look like crap!
That sucks
Hi Matt. Great Video. What grit do you use for sanding the glasses?
Thanks. 6000
Hi matt, what grit grade of sanding pad are you using there friend? God bless
It is in the description. 😃
That looks pretty darn cool. And I could see the pain when you ran water on it. . Oh the pain. . LOL
😂🤣😂🤣😂 the ambulance 🚑 ride was fun 😆
Nice laser printing, well done.😊
Thanks 😊
I have the Xtool D1 10w. I have dithering in lightburn. Is that going to be what I need for glass ya think?
Yes. But you need to use a spray on the glass to etch it.
How do you modify the K value using lightburn?
I don’t know haven’t needed to try that.
All of these %s can not be used for "cross platform" information. Does anyone know the speeds and powers for these types of settings? Thanks!
Yeah you need to watch my thunder laser video for that
60 watt Epilog laser and I was chipping like crazy - do you put anything on the glass ahead of time? Is your recommended power setting always 100% and you only adjust the speed?
60 watt that’s the same I run. 30 speed 100 power and put the font at 80% gray. It should not chip. Dithering is Jarvis. Check your hight
I take my hat off to you. I don't know how you run such a successful business. I'm on my own. Live in a foreign land. No friends or family. I have a website, Facebook page and on ETSY. I'm trying to sell my laser made products but getting no bites at all. Not one sale since December last year when I got my 50W JPT Fiber Laser. I also have an xTool D1 Pro 10W. Savings are running out and I'm in a pickle. No income for 2 years in total now. I can only survive for 3 more months. After that. Well....
Thanks. Have you tried taking different pictures of your products and changing keywords?
If I was using a brush it would be brass, not steel and light pressure
isn't the dithering setting done through the software, not the laser.
Yes
@@laserengravingwithmatt then why did you discuss that your laser can use it but not all can? this may cause people to think they need an epilog or something more expensive.
Because you only use it on coreldraw you don’t use that on light burn programmed lasers
@@laserengravingwithmatt I do. But I can also use Coreldraw if I want. I have tested the different dithering features in lightburn on my omtech and it works fine.
Hello Matt I see you use transfer tape 12" x 100' from Amazon. I buy from sign whare house 12" x 300' for double of what you pay on Amazon. Just thought I'd pass on some information on a better deal. See me later 😊😊
Thanks Bill that’s way better.
What speed and power would you recommend on a omtech 60w CO2 laser.
I would start with the San settings I used
Where can i change the shade on lightburn?
I don’t know I don’t use lightBurn
Where can I set the shade option? (I'm using lightburn)
No shade option in lightBurn that I’ve seen. I do that in Coreldraw.
@@laserengravingwithmatt Oh so you set it as grayscale in corel and then export it as a png not as a vector... Now I know...
👍
If you have China co2 try focusing in to the object
Some use blue tape on everything some use none. What's the purpose of it? 🤔
Just to make sure your itching is gonna land in the spot you wanted in you don’t wanna etch with it on
That sound! haha
😃
don't you have to coat the glass first??
Nope I don’t ever
@@laserengravingwithmatt can you please why you don't coat the glass with zinic or paint the glass?? most of people do this...
You don’t have to do any of that with a CO2 laser. Only diode laser’s.
@@laserengravingwithmatt thanks. I thought you have CO2 laser
I am using my CO2 laser for this video.
Matt, you need to smile more.
😂
Why would you use such course sanding disks on glass? Wash it with glass cleaner under water and dry with a paper towel or cloth. Jeez why screw up your work.
The sanding disks doesn’t meat it up and it less steps than washing it.
Do you have an Instagram?
Only on our other channel. Matt & Sara
@@laserengravingwithmatt is that centered around laser engraving and tips? You do a great job with these videos.
No sorry
I'm late to the game here... I've noticed that the glass surface once engraved, is micro fractured as you have just proven.
If you look at the engraving up close, it is shocking. It's not engraved at all. It is fractured on the surface. When you remove all the frosting as you call it, you will notice molten glass.
I can't bring myself to sell an item of this poor (but beautiful) quality.
This is based on my personal experience using a diode laser. I am not slating your good work and efforts.
Good video by the way and it just enforces what I thought about my own glass work. I thought I was doing something wrong.
Co2 lasers or UV lasers are best for engraving glass.