Steve, YOU ARE A LEGEND! Not only did you create a great, simple, informative video, but then you responded to almost all of the comments, many of which were repeats. You even responded to the trolls with kindness. I wanna be like you when I grow up (I’m currently 54 going on 6, so that could happen some day soon…) Just…THANK YOU! Your efforts are not unnoticed and are fully appreciated.
Steve, your results are STELLAR! My husband and I have toiled for 8 hours today in search of those perfectly balanced, mystical settings you speak of with poor results. We have at least two heat guns and they’re getting pulled out tomorrow. Your method seems so smart and efficient; thank you for the great safety information too!
Steve, you are brilliant! I have avoided this kind of fill because of the requirement with using the laser to heat it up and all the accuracy and pain you have to go through for that. This is AWESOME and I can't wait to try it. Thank you!!!
FINALLY! i have seriously been searching forever for this, everyone else does super roundabout ways. thanks! i did my guitar but luckily i didnt go through paint coat so i can resand it all down to wood grain and redo image so i can color! new subscriber for sure
Great video and thankyou for making it. I personally have never had an issue with getting the project re-aligned in the laser. Not sure why others have. I simply use a couple of big bar magnets to use as a guide to align my project too. They dont move at all because they have strong magnetic energy to stick to the bed of the laser. I form an "L" shape with them an align my project up to both the side and bottom of the bar magnet each time I place the project in the laser. Works perfect every time. I will say though that I do not like the texture the laser gives the powder coating after it melts it. It looks all lava like. Your method is great as long as you have a heat gun that doesnt blow very hard or else you will blow your powder coating away. Mine blows a little too hard but I have learned to hold it far enough away until the powder coat starts to melt some then I can move in closer. Thanks for this idea.
very helpful Steve. Just engraved then spread some mica powder after clear coat......heat gun...then clear. Looks great. thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Hi Steve I found the white powder and tried your method and it worked out pretty good. With the white I had to use the powder coat a couple of times. Thanks for your patience with me with all the questions Much appreciated
Steve, thank you so much for this video, I tried it today with a heatgun and the results were incredible, a hundred times better than my previous attempts using the laser.
Goodness, thank you for putting this out there. I tried the Powder Coat method and the stuff gets everywhere, even without using the air assist. I like the idea of using a heat gun to do this so much faster. Still not a huge fan of Powder Coat process since it does stain the surrounding wood, thanks for the video regardless!
*Okay Steve, I'm going to have to try this method!* Great video and idea! I've done a lot of color fill projects, but this looks amazing! The colors really pop!
I tried the heat gun cure on powered coat today and I was really surprised how nice it came out. I did two samples one with transfer masking and one without. The masked one came out flawless and required zero sanding. The unmasked one did require a good amount of sanding. Thanks for the info I will be using the heat gun for all my paint fills.
Yeah Steve we go to Da Tube for everything...but only certain creators cut through the BS to give clear and concise info. Yours is one! Thnx for these videos I am just getting going on Lasers. Been a CNC Machinist/ Programmer forever so getting Lightburn isn't too hard, but expanding my brain with what these machines can do is why I'm here. Great stuff!
I was VERY glad to see that you did NOT say to simply disable the air-assist and re-engrave the painted areas to melt the paint. I watched a different video before this where that was suggested, and I DID NOT want to merely cut off the air-assist completely.
Thank you! you now have a new biggest fan! I have been watching these guys try and realign and burn thinking there's got to be an easier way. Thank you sir, I cant wait to check out the rest of your channel!
Saw this the other night. amazon delivered earlier this evening. As soon as I finished The Witcher I was back in the shop.... THIS IS SO COOL!! SO easy! i got a couple of different colors right away, too! Real sanding happens in the morning. Wish i knew what grit you were using... Thanks for this, Steve!
Really awesome for 1 color! Almost seems for multiple colors it may be easier to just use the laser as the masking would not need to be done plus you have to get it back on the laser in the exact spot lol I am not good at that...AT ALL! I may try this on a complex engrave I did and use mica powder or epoxy powder as I think that will melt the same as the powder coat but not sure....so I will find out.
You certainly can use paint, though it dries thinner. In this scenario, we are using powder coat as a filler - you can apply a couple of coats and essentially get a similar appearance to resin-filled engraving, except much easier to apply.
Thanks I've done epoxy a little bit. But man the clean up and dry time is so long. This was killer and crazy easy. I wish we could share pictures in RUclips turned out great. Thanks Steve
That's a good technique and thanks for sharing your experience. Two quick questions: 1) would you be able to skip the sanding if you masked everything from the start (or what would the challenges be)? Is there a recommended "mask" that would peel off easily but still not melt with the heating of the powder?
You could try to mask but the heat is likely to lift it. But give it a try - there should be no downside to making. I typically use this transfer tape: amzn.to/3V6wdbO
Wow You are AWESOME finding this method. I was worry about my laser all the time when I was trying to do colour engraving. Lucky me I hav't done much. Thank you so much.
I would post-cure the image with the powder coat in it, the heat gun won't bring it to full cure (assuming polyester resins) unless you sit there for 10-15 minutes after the powder itself has come to 400°F. Love the very cool simplified method though!
It may not be necessary to go the temp up to 400F. I believe that’s the bonding temperature to make it stick to metal. It seems to bond pretty well. The powder coat in the video is used for painting fishing lures so it may have a lower melting point anyway
Very helpful video! Thank you for sharing! I see the link above for the Black & Decker Heat Gun, but would you please confirm this is the Black & Decker Dual Temperature Heat Gun Model HG1300 selling at Amazon and Home Depot for $29.40? (In the past I have clicked on links in "How-To" RUclips videos only to discover the link was hacked, so I am always a bit wary.) Also, would you please recommend an inexpensive but good sander? Thank you! I look forward to reading your response. I use the Trotec Speedy 300 80w laser at the public library to make gifts for family and friends. Several of my projects have intricate engraved designs, such as a Chinese Dragon. I have tried various methods, such as masking and then using Rub 'N Buff/spray paint/wax paint to color the engraved sections. However, it does not work well. The paint seeps into the unengraved areas or it's almost impossible to remove the masking tape. Nothing has worked, or perhaps I just lack the skills. I had just about given up hope until I watched this video. (Although there is a Trotec video of a laser being used to melt the Pro-Tec Powder Paint, the public library staff is understandably concerned about harmful fumes and damage to the laser.)
Excellent Video! Thank you :) . Have you ever used Mica powder for the fill? It is food safe and I wanted to use it for cutting boards to enhance the images.
Nice video Steve, thank you so much. I am so interested in doing this but cant find a good lead on where to buy. Many places but 8-15 bucks for 2oz then most places have the bright flashy color. Do have any leads? looking for maybe 10 basic colors. Thanks for your time!!!
I put a link in the description for Amazon and there are at least a dozen different colors. Note that it currently seems to be unavailable, but hopefully they get it back soon. This is used for painting fishing lures, so it might be a seasonal thing. This doesn't seem to be available in Europe though for some reason.
Well you can really use anything you want, but I tend to keep SVG creation out of lightburn because I also have other tools that don’t use LB and also artwork that is separate from lasers
I like this method, very simple, I have a scene that has the red truck with a Christmas tree in the back and I want to color them. Great video as usual.
Thanks for doing any video but especially this one! I have an Atezr p20 and the issue I had with using the laser to heat the powder was the module fan was kicking up the powder. I am glad I don't have to abandon the powder coat method.
You should be able to do this. But possibly a better way to make panels is to lay your artwork down in a pack cad tool and getting someone like PCBWay to make you a PCB but instead of a bunch of hole for components you just get a black board with white silkscreening. Will cost more, but you get pro results. You can still create holes for things like switches and lights too. Send me and email and I’ll show you one I did this way in the past.
Hi, thanks for the video. I think of using an iron maybe also an option. So maybe I will have more control over the temperature. I ordered some powder and will give it a try.
For sure, try it. Experimentation is the seed of innovation. If you use an iron, I would suggest laying down a layer of parchment paper. I would caution that the large heat pattern an iron would give might start to delaminate plywood though.
@@SteveMakesEverything I don't want it for plywood , i only use plywood for Tests . I recommend Solid Wood 😁 for final products. I will keep you posted with the result.
@@SteveMakesEverything so i tested. But doesn't work well in First try. Sticks in the parchement paper. Seems I get a bit hot. I will do some more Tests to get a better feeling when i have to Stop. But Overall ironing works also good to melt the color.
@@Schoendings You would definitely have to wait for everything to cool down to room temperature before trying to remove the parchment paper. I had the same problem in the video removing masking tape too quickly.
That’s so funny. I use to make cards via stamps. Embossing the design to add dimension. I just told a coworker today that I should use the embossing powder and my heat gun to add colors to the engraved item. lol cheers to you!
Good comment on using the best tool for the job. I have seen so many videos of people using fusion 360 and 3d printers for hours to create something you could make with a drill press in about 20 minutes.
😀 I have the same concern with high powered diode lasers claiming to be able to cut lumber - just use a saw. It's faster and cleaner. My desire for innovation is driven by my own laziness. If what I'm doing seems too hard, then I'll find an easier way.
As far as food safety, it would depend very much on the brand of powder coat you chose. For a cutting board this probably wouldn’t be the best choice for wear and tear. Resin would be a much better choice.
This is a great video! Thank you! Would love to know if there's a similar but alternative method that wouldn't require sanding the surface after the heat gun and the paint is dried. I'm thinking for projects on wood that is already aged and in a state that sanding would take away from of the vintage look.
Well you could mask the material before engraving and then remove the masking after heating. Your masking would have to be able to handle the heat though
What a great project! I’m in the uk, so probably can’t buy the same powder here. What generic term would I search for to find something similar? Thanks 😊
@@SteveMakesEverything ah great thanks. I was assuming powder coat was the same as they powder coat car wheels etc with, and thought it would need a very high temp 👍
Would masking with aluminium duct tape help with the multilayered jobs like the tiger do you think? I would think it would reflect excess heat. The only problem with that approach is the adhesive of those tapes tends to be pretty strong.
Sure, as long as the sealer doesn't contain anything that emits harmful fumes when you hit it with a laser. I use this technique often in my own business to engrave something onto a finished item and paint-fill the engraving.
Wow, this is a great lesson, about engraving for sure, but above all it's a lesson in using your own head and doing your own thinking. It's almost become a rarity like people have generally developed some kind of aversion to thinking, and it's almost in inverse proportion to the development of technology. Great improvement of the process, and simple to boot...
Depending on the wood, you can go with 320-480 just don’t sand through to first layer. You could also spray clearcoat or poly on the wood before engraving. This will prevent powder from sticking to the surface
hey man, I don't know how I come across your channel but happy I did - you've got a really interesting process there then I was thinking, if I was to use powder coat color, that's the exact process I would do, it seems logical to me. Anything else seems too time consuming......
Welcome aboard! I'm very happy that this process is logical. It means those other processes involving running the laser back over the powder are just crazy. I'm glad it's not just me that thinks this.😉
Thank you for this method, I was just about to give up on using powder coat paint. I do have a question, when would you use powder coat vs color epoxy?
You would definitely not want to use powder coat in project that will come into contact with food. Finding food-safe epoxy is pretty easy by contrast. However powder coat cures I Instantly.
So pretty....Thank you for sharing this! I just bought Borax and it really didn't do much for my wood engravings. (HAHA) I will make sure to give this a try. I use a lot of basswood for my projects. Was considering using this method after engraving plus staining. Was a little leary about fumes if used before. AND...is it a good idea to seal the project after the sanding's been done? THANK YOU for your awesome presentation!!!
Hopefully this one works for you, though borax on basswood should be pretty dramatic too. There shouldn’t be any real fumes from powder coat since you won’t be getting it hot enough to burn - only melt a bit.
I’m not sure this would work with acrylic at all since the heat required for the powder coat would also soften/melt the acrylic. However assuming that isn’t a problem, you probably wouldn’t have to worry about sanding because powder coat probably won’t stick to the smooth surface
That is just blue painters tape. Hopefully, you can get this in Chile, but is nothing special - just masking tape. --- Esto es sólo cinta de pintor azul. Ojalá puedas conseguir esto en Chile, pero no es nada especial.
Fabulous video as always..its give me a thought thought that im going to try...im a crafter have have multiple colours of embossing powders and wondered if those could be used ? And can i ask how did you get the image linned up correctly once you removed it to coat it
Yes give this a try. It works best with 1/4" material since you want to engrave a bit deeper than normal. As far as alignment, I tend to use jigs to allow for reproducible positioning., though in this case there isn't really anything to align
The public library, where I use the Trotec Speedy 300 80w laser, tried three of the Pro-Tec powders (black, pink, and light green) on two pieces of hardwood, a simple engraved design, and a heat gun, although the heat gun had only one setting. There were mixed results, with the best results from the black powder. I was not present when the work was done but the staff member told me he was glad he wore a mask, as when he took off the mask there was powder all around the periphery of the mask. He told me the pink and green did not work at all, as the powder flew away from the engraved areas. 1) With the Black & Decker Dual Temperature heat gun you mention, did you have an issue with the powder flying off the engraved areas? 2) Did you wear a mask? 3) Why would the black work better than the other two colors? Higher density? Is there anything in the Material Data Safety Sheet which would indicate colors less prone to flying off? 4) Any other tips or tricks not discussed in the video? Thank you! I hope you are well and I look forward to hearing from you. I am concerned about the heath and safety of the library staff. Best, Deb
I didn’t have any dust flying around because I don’t start with the heat gun close enough to kick dust up. I start first with it just close enough to start melting the surface and once it starts to darken, then I move in closer. As far as safety, you always want to wear a mask for most things in a workshop. I don’t think my heat gun does anything special - this is a process that requires a bit of practice. I think the darker colors absorb heat better, so they give the impression of working better. It just takes patience.
I have had it in my mind that powder needs 400 degrees of heat for a period of time but I am anxious to try this. I saw one video where the fellow laser heated the filled part and said it turned out perfect, but not according to my lying eyes!
The advantage of using a heat gun is that alignment with a laser isn’t required. So if you don’t get as much powder as you need, you can always apply more and reheat
This is fantastic! Good safety tips too. As suggested, use a weeding tool to help get that tape off. Do you not find the tape leaves lines at the joins? Looks good on yours but I always find it distracting and my eyes are drawn to the lines left at the joins. I need to find some bigger tape to avoid that.
I use a dental pick to remove the tape, and off camera, I did some of that on this project. Definitely get 2" tape if you can find it, but 1.5 to 1.75" for sure. It minimizes the places where engraving might be weaker, but with a 90W laser, the blue tape doesn't stand a chance 😉. Note that you can also get 12" wide transfer tape. I use this: amzn.to/3f9bu1S
Thank you. You are the first person I have seen on RUclips videos on lasers with adding color with common sense.
Glad it was helpful! It takes some practice but it comes out nice once you get the knack.
@@wolfcaillier6576 right sence isn't common anymore: sigh...
But this tutorial is on point, indeed...
Steve, YOU ARE A LEGEND! Not only did you create a great, simple, informative video, but then you responded to almost all of the comments, many of which were repeats. You even responded to the trolls with kindness. I wanna be like you when I grow up (I’m currently 54 going on 6, so that could happen some day soon…) Just…THANK YOU! Your efforts are not unnoticed and are fully appreciated.
Wow, thanks! I’m just trying to help all makers 😁
Love your no nonsense approach.
Thanks!
@@SteveMakesEverything I would've been surprised, if it was something else to melt the paint into the wood.
Steve, your results are STELLAR! My husband and I have toiled for 8 hours today in search of those perfectly balanced, mystical settings you speak of with poor results. We have at least two heat guns and they’re getting pulled out tomorrow. Your method seems so smart and efficient; thank you for the great safety information too!
Awesome! Give it a try
You made coloring look so easy! Now I'm anxious to try it. Thank you so much.
It’s just one more method you can use. It isn’t for everything, but there are some places where this method is best.
looks SO much easier than re shooting on the laser! cant wait to try
Yep, the only skill required is to know when you have enough heat and when you are too close to the material when heating it up
Your simple no nonsense explanation what just what I needed. Thankyou
Glad I can help 😀
Steve, you are brilliant! I have avoided this kind of fill because of the requirement with using the laser to heat it up and all the accuracy and pain you have to go through for that. This is AWESOME and I can't wait to try it. Thank you!!!
Hi Jack, Let me know how it works for you.
FINALLY! i have seriously been searching forever for this, everyone else does super roundabout ways. thanks! i did my guitar but luckily i didnt go through paint coat so i can resand it all down to wood grain and redo image so i can color! new subscriber for sure
Excellent! Welcome aboard
I like the information in this to open up the options
It easier than most processes for powder coat
Great video and thankyou for making it. I personally have never had an issue with getting the project re-aligned in the laser. Not sure why others have. I simply use a couple of big bar magnets to use as a guide to align my project too. They dont move at all because they have strong magnetic energy to stick to the bed of the laser. I form an "L" shape with them an align my project up to both the side and bottom of the bar magnet each time I place the project in the laser. Works perfect every time. I will say though that I do not like the texture the laser gives the powder coating after it melts it. It looks all lava like. Your method is great as long as you have a heat gun that doesnt blow very hard or else you will blow your powder coating away. Mine blows a little too hard but I have learned to hold it far enough away until the powder coat starts to melt some then I can move in closer. Thanks for this idea.
Yes. I will either use magnets on an acrylic square or make an actual jig
very helpful Steve. Just engraved then spread some mica powder after clear coat......heat gun...then clear. Looks great. thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Thanks. It’s just one more engraving fill method you can add to your arsenal of skills 😀
@SteveMakesEverything exactly.
Hi Steve I found the white powder and tried your method and it worked out pretty good. With the white I had to use the powder coat a couple of times. Thanks for your patience with me with all the questions Much appreciated
Yes you can apply addition layers to make it level with the surface
Thank you for sharing! Love the technique!
Glad you liked it! Keep experimenting!
Steve, thank you so much for this video, I tried it today with a heatgun and the results were incredible, a hundred times better than my previous attempts using the laser.
Fantastic! Using the right tool is the secret to most projects 😁
Goodness, thank you for putting this out there. I tried the Powder Coat method and the stuff gets everywhere, even without using the air assist. I like the idea of using a heat gun to do this so much faster. Still not a huge fan of Powder Coat process since it does stain the surrounding wood, thanks for the video regardless!
Light sanding will definitely be required regardless of the method you choose.
Seal the material before you laser
@@johnagorman Yes this is a good option to make clean up easier
*Okay Steve, I'm going to have to try this method!* Great video and idea! I've done a lot of color fill projects, but this looks amazing! The colors really pop!
Enjoy Rich. It really makes white pop compared to using a laser
Hope to see your video on this 😉
Curious if you ever tried this and what your results were?
You have great presentation skills as well as paint filling. Thanks
Thank you very much!
Can't wait to try this! Thank you Steve.
I hope it helps
I tried the heat gun cure on powered coat today and I was really surprised how nice it came out. I did two samples one with transfer masking and one without. The masked one came out flawless and required zero sanding. The unmasked one did require a good amount of sanding. Thanks for the info I will be using the heat gun for all my paint fills.
The mask will definitely make the sanding job easier. Glad you got value out of this
Yeah Steve we go to Da Tube for everything...but only certain creators cut through the BS to give clear and concise info. Yours is one! Thnx for these videos I am just getting going on Lasers. Been a CNC Machinist/ Programmer forever so getting Lightburn isn't too hard, but expanding my brain with what these machines can do is why I'm here. Great stuff!
Wow, I appreciate this. I try to get to the point as much as possible.
@SteveMakesEverything Job well done, sir. I'm making aluminum business cards off of your other video, n they're sweet!
@@glockasauruswrex6362Excellent. If you want to see videos on other things, just let me know (email in the description of every video)
That's a neat method. Glad found your channel
I'm glad you found me too😉
I was VERY glad to see that you did NOT say to simply disable the air-assist and re-engrave the painted areas to melt the paint. I watched a different video before this where that was suggested, and I DID NOT want to merely cut off the air-assist completely.
Yes this was exactly the point of this video. I think using a laser as a heat gun is pointless
Thank you! you now have a new biggest fan! I have been watching these guys try and realign and burn thinking there's got to be an easier way. Thank you sir, I cant wait to check out the rest of your channel!
Welcome aboard! I did the same thing when I started, but I’m not content unless I actually find the better way 😁
Very cool indeed, thanks Steve.
You are very welcome
Stunningggg! Thank you so much for sharing!
You are so welcome!
I have one at work on my wall and everyone loves it
Sweet!😀
Brilliant tutorial Steve. Thanks 🤩
Very welcome
if you have a toaster oven, or old cheap used oven you can batch melt.
Yes, any sufficient heat source will work fine
Really great, and now going to watch the painted tile video 😀
Hope you enjoy it!
Hugely informative. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video, i have not attemped colour engraving.
You should! It’s fairly easy and impactful.
@@SteveMakesEverything thank you
Awesome thanks for sharing, can’t wait to try it
You’re welcome 😊
Saw this the other night. amazon delivered earlier this evening. As soon as I finished The Witcher I was back in the shop.... THIS IS SO COOL!! SO easy! i got a couple of different colors right away, too! Real sanding happens in the morning. Wish i knew what grit you were using... Thanks for this, Steve!
For plywood I use 320 or even 600 grit depending on how much I have to clean up. You can’t go too hard on plywood or you will sand through layers
@@SteveMakesEverything THANK YOU, SIR!
Thanks for the great info... I like the way you explained using the heat gun..
I will try this tomorrow in the shop..
I hope it works
@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you!
The paint idea is fantastical. Thank you.
Give it a try
Got to say a big thanks , i also tested for a full day and did not get the results i was looking for . After using this method , well pleased . 👍👍
Glad it helped
Really awesome for 1 color! Almost seems for multiple colors it may be easier to just use the laser as the masking would not need to be done plus you have to get it back on the laser in the exact spot lol I am not good at that...AT ALL! I may try this on a complex engrave I did and use mica powder or epoxy powder as I think that will melt the same as the powder coat but not sure....so I will find out.
I think you’re still going to need the masks. It’s not for heating, but rather for spreading powder coat without contaminating other colors
STEVE!!! I wondered where you had gone! Starting to look at the videos, love the channel so far!
Hey Joe! Nice to hear from you again. Shoot me an email if you need anything
Thank you. Great process for Laser!!!
Do something cool with this 😁
Great improvement of this method! Although I still don't understand why not use good quality liquid paint instead.
You certainly can use paint, though it dries thinner. In this scenario, we are using powder coat as a filler - you can apply a couple of coats and essentially get a similar appearance to resin-filled engraving, except much easier to apply.
Wonderful video! Great process.
Thank you! Cheers!
Definitely going to try it. Thanks
I hope it helps you out
Absolutely top tricks. Thankyou for the upload!!!!
No problem!
Thanks I've done epoxy a little bit. But man the clean up and dry time is so long. This was killer and crazy easy. I wish we could share pictures in RUclips turned out great. Thanks Steve
Glad it was helpful
Watching your Videos all the time
Awesome! As always, if there are things you want to see covered, drop me an email (see the description in every video)
That's a good technique and thanks for sharing your experience. Two quick questions: 1) would you be able to skip the sanding if you masked everything from the start (or what would the challenges be)? Is there a recommended "mask" that would peel off easily but still not melt with the heating of the powder?
You could try to mask but the heat is likely to lift it. But give it a try - there should be no downside to making. I typically use this transfer tape: amzn.to/3V6wdbO
I'm new to this, saw a lot of videos, your is without a doubt the simpler and the best. Going to try. Subscribed. 👍
Welcome aboard!
Wow You are AWESOME finding this method. I was worry about my laser all the time when I was trying to do colour engraving. Lucky me I hav't done much. Thank you so much.
Hope it helps
I would post-cure the image with the powder coat in it, the heat gun won't bring it to full cure (assuming polyester resins) unless you sit there for 10-15 minutes after the powder itself has come to 400°F.
Love the very cool simplified method though!
It may not be necessary to go the temp up to 400F. I believe that’s the bonding temperature to make it stick to metal. It seems to bond pretty well. The powder coat in the video is used for painting fishing lures so it may have a lower melting point anyway
What is the best quick-dry ink or paint for filling engraved etches on a pendant or bracelet, without needing to coat or cure them?
Any acrylic paint will dry pretty quickly
Very helpful video! Thank you for sharing! I see the link above for the Black & Decker Heat Gun, but would you please confirm this is the Black & Decker Dual Temperature Heat Gun Model HG1300 selling at Amazon and Home Depot for $29.40? (In the past I have clicked on links in "How-To" RUclips videos only to discover the link was hacked, so I am always a bit wary.) Also, would you please recommend an inexpensive but good sander? Thank you! I look forward to reading your response.
I use the Trotec Speedy 300 80w laser at the public library to make gifts for family and friends. Several of my projects have intricate engraved designs, such as a Chinese Dragon. I have tried various methods, such as masking and then using Rub 'N Buff/spray paint/wax paint to color the engraved sections. However, it does not work well. The paint seeps into the unengraved areas or it's almost impossible to remove the masking tape. Nothing has worked, or perhaps I just lack the skills. I had just about given up hope until I watched this video. (Although there is a Trotec video of a laser being used to melt the Pro-Tec Powder Paint, the public library staff is understandably concerned about harmful fumes and damage to the laser.)
I believe this is the model of heat gun I have.
@@SteveMakesEverything , thank you.. Can you recommend an inexpensive sander?
@@deborahzorn7549 Honestly just buy whatever is on sale. Dewalt is probably the best quality, but also look at Makita and Milwalkee
@@SteveMakesEverything , do you mean "Milwaukee"?
@@deborahzorn7549🙂 Yes. Typing while doing two other things is never good. The fingers work, but the brain isn't engaged.
Excellent Video! Thank you :) . Have you ever used Mica powder for the fill? It is food safe and I wanted to use it for cutting boards to enhance the images.
If you want to use mica powder then you will need to mix it with resin sine it won’t melt with heat. I done lots of work like this with resin too.
@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you!
Nice video Steve, thank you so much. I am so interested in doing this but cant find a good lead on where to buy. Many places but 8-15 bucks for 2oz then most places have the bright flashy color. Do have any leads? looking for maybe 10 basic colors. Thanks for your time!!!
I put a link in the description for Amazon and there are at least a dozen different colors. Note that it currently seems to be unavailable, but hopefully they get it back soon. This is used for painting fishing lures, so it might be a seasonal thing.
This doesn't seem to be available in Europe though for some reason.
Just a note, why use Inkscape for the SVG conversion when Lightburn can do it just as easily?
Well you can really use anything you want, but I tend to keep SVG creation out of lightburn because I also have other tools that don’t use LB and also artwork that is separate from lasers
I like this method, very simple, I have a scene that has the red truck with a Christmas tree in the back and I want to color them. Great video as usual.
Glad it was useful
Hi, this looks amazing. Were you engraving each step at a slightly deeper depth for each color?
No, the same settings for everything
Thanks for doing any video but especially this one! I have an Atezr p20 and the issue I had with using the laser to heat the powder was the module fan was kicking up the powder. I am glad I don't have to abandon the powder coat method.
Yes, most modern diode lasers make a lot of wind and powder coat is basically colored dust. It’s not a good combination.
Just started out with my laser engraver and so glad I came across your channel! You have another sub! Thank you for all the tips & tricks!
Awesome! Thank you and welcome aboard.
As a fellow Steve, you my friend are genius! subscribed!!
Thanks, but I’m just a guy who likes to help people😁
Can I get clean text down to 9-pt (for panel text engrave for an instrument panel)?
You should be able to do this. But possibly a better way to make panels is to lay your artwork down in a pack cad tool and getting someone like PCBWay to make you a PCB but instead of a bunch of hole for components you just get a black board with white silkscreening. Will cost more, but you get pro results. You can still create holes for things like switches and lights too. Send me and email and I’ll show you one I did this way in the past.
Hi, thanks for the video. I think of using an iron maybe also an option. So maybe I will have more control over the temperature.
I ordered some powder and will give it a try.
For sure, try it. Experimentation is the seed of innovation. If you use an iron, I would suggest laying down a layer of parchment paper. I would caution that the large heat pattern an iron would give might start to delaminate plywood though.
@@SteveMakesEverything I don't want it for plywood , i only use plywood for Tests . I recommend Solid Wood 😁 for final products.
I will keep you posted with the result.
@@Schoendings I usually avoid plywood too.
@@SteveMakesEverything so i tested. But doesn't work well in First try. Sticks in the parchement paper. Seems I get a bit hot. I will do some more Tests to get a better feeling when i have to Stop. But Overall ironing works also good to melt the color.
@@Schoendings You would definitely have to wait for everything to cool down to room temperature before trying to remove the parchment paper. I had the same problem in the video removing masking tape too quickly.
That’s so funny. I use to make cards via stamps. Embossing the design to add dimension. I just told a coworker today that I should use the embossing powder and my heat gun to add colors to the engraved item. lol cheers to you!
When you are inspired by an idea give it a try. You might learn something new 😁
Good comment on using the best tool for the job. I have seen so many videos of people using fusion 360 and 3d printers for hours to create something you could make with a drill press in about 20 minutes.
😀 I have the same concern with high powered diode lasers claiming to be able to cut lumber - just use a saw. It's faster and cleaner.
My desire for innovation is driven by my own laziness. If what I'm doing seems too hard, then I'll find an easier way.
This would look amazing on cutting board or cheese board. Any idea if food safe or how it would hold up when cleaning it?
As far as food safety, it would depend very much on the brand of powder coat you chose. For a cutting board this probably wouldn’t be the best choice for wear and tear. Resin would be a much better choice.
This is a great video! Thank you! Would love to know if there's a similar but alternative method that wouldn't require sanding the surface after the heat gun and the paint is dried. I'm thinking for projects on wood that is already aged and in a state that sanding would take away from of the vintage look.
Well you could mask the material before engraving and then remove the masking after heating. Your masking would have to be able to handle the heat though
Great video! Can’t wait to give this a go.
Have fun!
Will the powder paint and heat work on other materials? I’m wondering about real or synthetic leather and harder materials like stone or slate. Thanks
Yes, it will work on any material that powder coat sticks to. However you need a fairly deep engraving for this.
How does he get the wood back in the proper position todo a second engraving? I do this and the imag is "blurred" or offset.
Make a jig and lock it down on your workspace. If your material can be removed/replaced accurately, you will have no problems.
What a great project! I’m in the uk, so probably can’t buy the same powder here. What generic term would I search for to find something similar? Thanks 😊
Look for powder coat
@@SteveMakesEverything ah great thanks. I was assuming powder coat was the same as they powder coat car wheels etc with, and thought it would need a very high temp 👍
Would masking with aluminium duct tape help with the multilayered jobs like the tiger do you think? I would think it would reflect excess heat. The only problem with that approach is the adhesive of those tapes tends to be pretty strong.
Not sure and heat really isn’t a problem, but impatience is 😀
Brilliant! Use a "weeding" tool (for embroidery) to remove tape
Yes. I ended up using a dental pick off camera to remove a few of the smaller bits
Question: What about spraying a clearcoat layer to seal between engravings?
Sure, as long as the sealer doesn't contain anything that emits harmful fumes when you hit it with a laser. I use this technique often in my own business to engrave something onto a finished item and paint-fill the engraving.
Wow, this is a great lesson, about engraving for sure, but above all it's a lesson in using your own head and doing your own thinking. It's almost become a rarity like people have generally developed some kind of aversion to thinking, and it's almost in inverse proportion to the development of technology. Great improvement of the process, and simple to boot...
Well I do try to turn my neurons on as much as possible ;-)
What grit sand paper did you use? I can’t seem to get the wood cleaned up after I heat the paint. Help!!!
Depending on the wood, you can go with 320-480 just don’t sand through to first layer. You could also spray clearcoat or poly on the wood before engraving. This will prevent powder from sticking to the surface
Thank you for the informative video !!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Steve. I believe you said this was your first time trying that method but I may be wrong. Great job, makes total sense too!
I’ve been doing this method for a while. It just didn’t make sense to me to use a laser to heat powder coat.
hey man, I don't know how I come across your channel but happy I did - you've got a really interesting process there then I was thinking, if I was to use powder coat color, that's the exact process I would do, it seems logical to me. Anything else seems too time consuming......
Welcome aboard! I'm very happy that this process is logical. It means those other processes involving running the laser back over the powder are just crazy. I'm glad it's not just me that thinks this.😉
So I was wondering can I do the same steps on metal
Not with a diode or CO2 laser. If you had a 60w fiber laser maybe you could engrave and fill.
Thank you for this method, I was just about to give up on using powder coat paint. I do have a question, when would you use powder coat vs color epoxy?
You would definitely not want to use powder coat in project that will come into contact with food. Finding food-safe epoxy is pretty easy by contrast. However powder coat cures I
Instantly.
beautiful result!, thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching!
Hi Steve great tip thanks. Just wondering what masking tape you use? Is that standard blue painters tape or something different? Thanks
I typically use generic blue painters tape, but sometimes I will use transfer tape. This stuff: amzn.to/3V6wdbO
Great thank you!
So pretty....Thank you for sharing this! I just bought Borax and it really didn't do much for my wood engravings. (HAHA) I will make sure to give this a try. I use a lot of basswood for my projects. Was considering using this method after engraving plus staining. Was a little leary about fumes if used before. AND...is it a good idea to seal the project after the sanding's been done? THANK YOU for your awesome presentation!!!
Hopefully this one works for you, though borax on basswood should be pretty dramatic too. There shouldn’t be any real fumes from powder coat since you won’t be getting it hot enough to burn - only melt a bit.
How would this work for acrylic since you can’t sand it?
I’m not sure this would work with acrylic at all since the heat required for the powder coat would also soften/melt the acrylic. However assuming that isn’t a problem, you probably wouldn’t have to worry about sanding because powder coat probably won’t stick to the smooth surface
What sandpaper grit did u use after burning the black powder paint on the lion
It would have been either 400 or 600 grit. You really can’t do much sanding on plywood.
Does the powder coat work on ceramic tiles?
Not unless you can engrave the tile with a depth of about 1mm or more. Only a uv lasers can really chip through the glaze on tile to enable this
Desde Zapallar Chile, muy claro tu video, me puedes indicar el nombre del papel adhesivo que usaste en la segunda pasada. Gracias por enseñarnos.
That is just blue painters tape. Hopefully, you can get this in Chile, but is nothing special - just masking tape.
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Esto es sólo cinta de pintor azul. Ojalá puedas conseguir esto en Chile, pero no es nada especial.
Fabulous video as always..its give me a thought thought that im going to try...im a crafter have have multiple colours of embossing powders and wondered if those could be used ? And can i ask how did you get the image linned up correctly once you removed it to coat it
Yes give this a try. It works best with 1/4" material since you want to engrave a bit deeper than normal.
As far as alignment, I tend to use jigs to allow for reproducible positioning., though in this case there isn't really anything to align
The public library, where I use the Trotec Speedy 300 80w laser, tried three of the Pro-Tec powders (black, pink, and light green) on two pieces of hardwood, a simple engraved design, and a heat gun, although the heat gun had only one setting. There were mixed results, with the best results from the black powder. I was not present when the work was done but the staff member told me he was glad he wore a mask, as when he took off the mask there was powder all around the periphery of the mask. He told me the pink and green did not work at all, as the powder flew away from the engraved areas.
1) With the Black & Decker Dual Temperature heat gun you mention, did you have an issue with the powder flying off the engraved areas?
2) Did you wear a mask?
3) Why would the black work better than the other two colors? Higher density? Is there anything in the Material Data Safety Sheet which would indicate colors less prone to flying off?
4) Any other tips or tricks not discussed in the video?
Thank you! I hope you are well and I look forward to hearing from you. I am concerned about the heath and safety of the library staff. Best, Deb
I didn’t have any dust flying around because I don’t start with the heat gun close enough to kick dust up. I start first with it just close enough to start melting the surface and once it starts to darken, then I move in closer.
As far as safety, you always want to wear a mask for most things in a workshop. I don’t think my heat gun does anything special - this is a process that requires a bit of practice. I think the darker colors absorb heat better, so they give the impression of working better. It just takes patience.
Some great advice, thank you ☺
Hope it helps
I have had it in my mind that powder needs 400 degrees of heat for a period of time but I am anxious to try this. I saw one video where the fellow laser heated the filled part and said it turned out perfect, but not according to my lying eyes!
The advantage of using a heat gun is that alignment with a laser isn’t required. So if you don’t get as much powder as you need, you can always apply more and reheat
Thank you for making this. Thoughts on when you can apply stain and poly? Can you do this over the powder coat?
You probably should stain after powder coat but you can apply poly before or after
Have you tried this with masking on pavers?
I have not, but it sounds like a fun project😁
Would this same method work for engraving on tumblers with laser and adding color?
Can u engrave and fill in the pours with non powder paint?
Sure. Use Acrylic pain or even resin if you make a deep enough engraving
This is fantastic! Good safety tips too. As suggested, use a weeding tool to help get that tape off. Do you not find the tape leaves lines at the joins? Looks good on yours but I always find it distracting and my eyes are drawn to the lines left at the joins. I need to find some bigger tape to avoid that.
I use a dental pick to remove the tape, and off camera, I did some of that on this project. Definitely get 2" tape if you can find it, but 1.5 to 1.75" for sure. It minimizes the places where engraving might be weaker, but with a 90W laser, the blue tape doesn't stand a chance 😉. Note that you can also get 12" wide transfer tape. I use this: amzn.to/3f9bu1S
Hey Steve, what about on glass?
This particular process won’t work on glass - at least not well. Powder coat needs a fairly deep engraving in order to bond properly
Would a heat press work instead of the heat gun? I have several sizes I use with my cricut.
I think if you lay some parchment paper over it, a heat press would probably work. You’d need to experiment with the temperature and time though
@@SteveMakesEverything thanks Steve
How did you ensure your work was in the exact correct place when you put it back
Jigs are a miracle in situations like this.
Would this work on metal?
It should. Make sure the surface is clean before filling with powder coat