My new S one just got delivered to the house today right now. I've been watching your channel. Thank you for all your support and videos. You inspired me to start my new engraving side business. I appreciate you.
Stumbled upon your channel and sub’d ya. Currently in the process of selling my business and plan to start my laser hobby and combine it as a small sideline. After weeks and weeks of research, I’m going with the OMTech 80W AF CO2 beastie and the OMTech 60W mopa fiber doo-hikie. Even if the business goes nowhere, I still got a tremendous hobby to enjoy with good gear. Thoroughly enjoy watching your videos and my sincere appreciation/thanks. Tah tahhh lovviiieeee, for now. I’ll be booking my upcoming to lessons with you soon enough ha ha ha
Super useful and practical tips, thanks! (I’m brand new to laser cutters, am setting up and dialing in a small CO2 machine at our makerspace. I’m lookout for projects people could do for Christmas gifts and ornaments. I think slate coasters will be a nice easy project, but am going to try some glass ornaments too; this will be incredibly helpful in this 👍😁)
Thanks for the tips, Michael! I found that using both paper towels and soap, the air assist dries it out before the engrave is done. Are you using air? It seems your paper is fluttering.
Thanks for the info! yes I always have a little air running, on one machine. and the one in the video I'm not using air, for glass its not so important to use air. :) but some machine you cannot turn air off and thats ok.
Great video! Is there a chance a 40w blue diode or a 2w infrared (40w power) diode can engrave glass successfully? CO2 is still outside my budget but if I could add glass to my bag of products it could get me to CO2 much quicker.
There is a work around for the 40watt diode that involves painting a thin layer of black tempura paint on the glass prior to laser etching it. I have not tried it, but I see folks doing it online, you might want to research that technique, but in the end Co2 is the Best way to go!
I've got a question for you. In my experience when you use Jarvis or Stucki dithering on glass when you engrave text or lines, it just doesn't look very sharp. Is it possible to do line engraving as a second pass right after you engraved the glass, like you did on wood? And will this help? Just curious... Btw I like your videos! Greetings from the Netherlands.
How about pyrex? I've read differing opinions on whether it's okay or not. Some people say it will explode after lasering, and just as many say they've done it many times with zero issues.
Pyrex is a brand name for borosilicate glass. The reason it works so well for cookware will also make it a lousy target for laser engraving - it resists damage by rapid heating.
@@petergamache5368 I have heard Pyrex no longer makes glass from borosilicate and uses something else instead - which does not have the same resistance to thermal shock.
Ok, thanks. I need to engrave on a very thin crystal wine glass (Riedel Degustane White). Have you ever done these? We have a Universal 75W with 9.3um CO2 laser.
@@debbieflaherty159 yes, you will want to use a wet paper towel and make a new setting that is designed to work with thinner glass. You normal glass setting is risky, I have a lower power setting that I use for thin glass along with the wet paper towel.
yeah we did not dive into UV laser on this episode but maybe in the future! The cool thing about UV is that they actually engrave the glass, rather than micro fracture! but the not so cool is the price, and how finicky they are.
The music in this really makes it hard to watch. I know it's odd editing your own recording and hearing your own voice, but I would rather hear just you my friend. Thanks for the video!
No they dont, but as a customer centric based laser engraving business goes, customer can ask me to engrave any logo on their item for personal use, but I cannot just engrave any logo I want on anything and sell it online, that would be a copyright violation unless I had a license. to produce that product and sell online.
Hallo! you r awesome! :) ty all info! I want to reveal the color of the paper on glass, but the color is not coming out. It turns grey/white, probably because the paper is burning. I increase the speed and lower the power, but then the design doesn’t stick to the glass. I can’t seem to figure it out. Here’s an example video. I can’t seem to achieve a proper black tone, or the quality is poor. What would you recommend for a 3W machine? I want to design glasses as a hobby. Example video: ruclips.net/user/shorts6Avt6zIrZ-A
My new S one just got delivered to the house today right now. I've been watching your channel. Thank you for all your support and videos. You inspired me to start my new engraving side business. I appreciate you.
and I you! Thanks for your support!
A clear explanation that remains etched in my brain.
@@MileyonDisney 😂😂 love that
Looking great Miley.
Genius, love this! I have worked on glass months ago. Got a little frustrated so took a pause. This definitely will help me out. Thanks!
You're so welcome!
Stumbled upon your channel and sub’d ya. Currently in the process of selling my business and plan to start my laser hobby and combine it as a small sideline. After weeks and weeks of research, I’m going with the OMTech 80W AF CO2 beastie and the OMTech 60W mopa fiber doo-hikie. Even if the business goes nowhere, I still got a tremendous hobby to enjoy with good gear. Thoroughly enjoy watching your videos and my sincere appreciation/thanks. Tah tahhh lovviiieeee, for now. I’ll be booking my upcoming to lessons with you soon enough ha ha ha
Thanks for sharing and popping by!
Super useful and practical tips, thanks!
(I’m brand new to laser cutters, am setting up and dialing in a small CO2 machine at our makerspace. I’m lookout for projects people could do for Christmas gifts and ornaments. I think slate coasters will be a nice easy project, but am going to try some glass ornaments too; this will be incredibly helpful in this 👍😁)
Glad it was helpful!
im setting up my d1 pro 10w watt your channel has been a great help
Glad to help, thanks for your support!
Very informative video. Loving the tips and tricks series.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!
Another great episode. Can you do some tips for the XTool F1 Ultra? Glass and metal items especially
coming soon!
I really enjoyed this one. How about etching mirrors. Im thinking you'd have to mask it so the beam doesn't just reflex back up
For mirrors you engrave the dull gray back side, and reverse the engraving, that's how you do mirrors, Thanks!
@@LaserEngraving911 that makes a lot more since. Thank you. I just tried it and it is awesome.
Great video Michael!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the tips, Michael! I found that using both paper towels and soap, the air assist dries it out before the engrave is done. Are you using air? It seems your paper is fluttering.
Thanks for the info! yes I always have a little air running, on one machine. and the one in the video I'm not using air, for glass its not so important to use air. :) but some machine you cannot turn air off and thats ok.
Great video! Is there a chance a 40w blue diode or a 2w infrared (40w power) diode can engrave glass successfully? CO2 is still outside my budget but if I could add glass to my bag of products it could get me to CO2 much quicker.
There is a work around for the 40watt diode that involves painting a thin layer of black tempura paint on the glass prior to laser etching it. I have not tried it, but I see folks doing it online, you might want to research that technique, but in the end Co2 is the Best way to go!
Fiber (IR) is not possible.
I've got a question for you. In my experience when you use Jarvis or Stucki dithering on glass when you engrave text or lines, it just doesn't look very sharp. Is it possible to do line engraving as a second pass right after you engraved the glass, like you did on wood? And will this help? Just curious... Btw I like your videos! Greetings from the Netherlands.
no second pass should be needed. Jarvis will work, keep testing, you will find a setting that works.
Using a rotary in a co2 with LightBurn. Full tumbler wraps especially.
gotcha!!
How about pyrex? I've read differing opinions on whether it's okay or not. Some people say it will explode after lasering, and just as many say they've done it many times with zero issues.
not going to explode.. I assure you. But results may be lack luster.
It will explode when subjected to thermal shock. Heated and placed onto cool surfaces or cold glass heated in a pre-heated oven. @@LaserEngraving911
Pyrex is a brand name for borosilicate glass. The reason it works so well for cookware will also make it a lousy target for laser engraving - it resists damage by rapid heating.
@@petergamache5368 I have heard Pyrex no longer makes glass from borosilicate and uses something else instead - which does not have the same resistance to thermal shock.
great video. thank you
Thank You!! appreciate that!
Can this also be done with diode or fiber laser?
no
Anyone have a resource for packaging of glassware? shippable packaging etc...?
Uline and Bubble wrap, use over sized box, so you can use lots of bubble wrap
@@LaserEngraving911how about custom boxes for branding not for shipping? Anyone?
How about lead free glass??? Does that engrave ok?
yes
@@LaserEngraving911 Thank you!
You mentioned there would be a BONUS TIP for ultra thin glass, but I didn't see that.
its the part about using dish soap to disperse the heat, or a wet paper towel.
Ok, thanks. I need to engrave on a very thin crystal wine glass (Riedel Degustane White). Have you ever done these? We have a Universal 75W with 9.3um CO2 laser.
@@debbieflaherty159 yes, you will want to use a wet paper towel and make a new setting that is designed to work with thinner glass. You normal glass setting is risky, I have a lower power setting that I use for thin glass along with the wet paper towel.
@@LaserEngraving911 Great! Thanks for all your help!
Would I be able to do glass with an Xtool F1?
no.
Actually you can. I use chalkboard spray paint to paint the glass, engrave and then clean with acetone. It's time consuming but can be done. :)
Have you ever engraved on a glen cairn glass?
nope, not sure that that is tell me!
Does it work on a diode laser?
no.
Well what about diod laser
no. not without a work around, which involved painting your glass with black tempura paint, you can look it up.
I haven’t tried glass yet. Told myself to just get a uv then try them. Super cheap idea 😅
yeah we did not dive into UV laser on this episode but maybe in the future! The cool thing about UV is that they actually engrave the glass, rather than micro fracture! but the not so cool is the price, and how finicky they are.
Tip #7 Engraving full alcohol bottles, living life on the edge 😎
The music in this really makes it hard to watch. I know it's odd editing your own recording and hearing your own voice, but I would rather hear just you my friend. Thanks for the video!
Noted! I appreciate the constructive feedback
Diod laser?
the best laser for engraving glass is a Co2 laser or UV laser, Co2 are more affordable! and UV lasers are pricy and very specific to glass only
Do you waste time doing any black markings on glass. The spray can get pricey and time consuming…
Good Question, I dont.. I have found that that is not really what customers are looking for, and the results are usually lack luster.
Seems like you need that spray though if you are using a diode laser. I haven’t had any luck without it on most glass.
on Tip #9, guess the copyright laws go out the window?
No they dont, but as a customer centric based laser engraving business goes, customer can ask me to engrave any logo on their item for personal use, but I cannot just engrave any logo I want on anything and sell it online, that would be a copyright violation unless I had a license. to produce that product and sell online.
Hallo! you r awesome! :) ty all info!
I want to reveal the color of the paper on glass, but the color is not coming out. It turns grey/white, probably because the paper is burning. I increase the speed and lower the power, but then the design doesn’t stick to the glass. I can’t seem to figure it out. Here’s an example video. I can’t seem to achieve a proper black tone, or the quality is poor. What would you recommend for a 3W machine? I want to design glasses as a hobby.
Example video:
ruclips.net/user/shorts6Avt6zIrZ-A
Great video so much good advice I spent years trying different methods machine settings etc is a challenge but this video saves hours of testing.
You're welcome!