Best video I've seen on rear setup, actually best automotive video I've seen, so clear and informative. Gave me the confidence to do this on my 66 Chevelle 12 bolt. Thanks so much!!!
Thanks for sharing this video. I just finished installing my pinion gear and yoke using a Bauer electric corded impact driver that has 300 ft lb of torque and it worked great. All you have to do is hold on to the yoke with one hand and pull the trigger with the other hand, trust me, it will not get away from you. I put a piece of green frog tape down the length of the socket so I could see just how much the socket was turning. Once it is close, you check the preload and go from there. You only have to pull the trigger a second or two at a time watching the tape move, then check it again until it is right where you want it. Much easier than crushing it with a breaker bar.
@@missingdigitgarage8644 Yeah, I hear ya, whatever gets the job done. I just wanted to share my experience that I had in hopes to help you and others get the job done easily. This was my first build and it went fairly smoothly. I was working on a 1968 12 bolt posi.
Excellent video, super in-depth, the best I've seen on RUclips for the GM 12 bolts. I'm going to do a new posi carrier in my old 56 Chevy pick up tomorrow, haven't done one in about 10 years so I'm glad I found this video because I definitely forgot a few things that I just relearned and I definitely picked up some new tips and tricks. Thanks again for the great video
Im glad you enjoyed the vid. Good luck on the 12 bolt. When I do anothe 12 bolt I will be using the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Im getting too old to crush those things...lol
@@missingdigitgarage8644that's what I'm using on this build, a little more messing around with the shims but in case I get a leaky pinion seal in the future. Do you think I'd be safe setting my pinion preload shims for the solid sleeve using the setup bearings?
Nicely done. I'm doing this job now on my car and appreciate all the tips. I've watched many videos on this and nobody else mentioned inspecting the carrier for wear so thanks for that. I didn't see where you set the pinion depth per the engraved number on the end of the gear. You just go with what was there for pinion shims and adjust as needed?
I go with the OEM start point pinion shim and adjust from there as per the paint pattern . The paint pattern will tell you where you need to go with the pinion depth. Measuring the engraved depth requires more tools. You can achieve the same goal and results using the paint pattern. I hope this helps.
While the way you removed the carrier bearing with the clamshell puller worked, it's supposed to be done with the race on top and both round adjusting discs inside the clam. That way should allow it to be removed without damage and be reused, if needed. There are some YT vids showing this. Cheers
Great informtion and step by guide to do this, much appreciated! I'm putting an older original set of 3.31 gears into my 71 chevelle 12 bolt with the same posi unit from Yukon. I saw that you used a thirty thousandths shim on the pinion as a staring point for the pinion depth since the older GM pinions don't have a number on the gear itself to shoot for for the measured depth. Would that also be a good place to start with setting mine up? I did the same thing and made a setup bearing from the old ones so I could easily change them as the shims need to be adjusted. Also what do you think about the crush sleeve eliminator vs. the old school crush sleeve? I thoroughly enjoyed your video thanks so much for sharing this with everybody, you make it look so easy, but I know that's because you know what you're doing lol! Thanks! John L
Do the crush eliminator, Its a struggle to crush those things. Especially if its under the car on jack stands. You can use the original shim thickness as a start point if it was set up correctly. If it was not set up correctly, you can use my numbers for the pinion start point and go where the paint markings tell you. Good luck and thanks for watching, Im glad you enjoyed the vid.
VERY INFORMATIVE. GOT 1 QUESTION, ADJUSTMENT IS EVERYTHING,,,,SINCE YOU USED THOSE OLD TRY ON BEARINGS TO DO THE PINION ADJUSTMENT,..WOULDNT PUTTING THE NEW ONES ON CHANGE YOUR ADJUSTMENTS,.. SPECIALLY THE INNER PINION BEARING. THANKS
It all boils down to a good contact paint pattern. Changing setup bearings has little effect on measurements. It does have some but an acceptable paint pattern is the last and end result you want.
@@miguelmaldonado9881 Sorry for the late reply, there would be a slight change in measurements with old bearings. These bearings were in great shape so I was confident It would work. Thanks for watching !
@@miguelmaldonado9881 They get you close enough to go for a paint pattern. The paint tells all. It does work in a pinch. It is best to use new setups but not a rule.
Those lines on the inner bearing at 23:59 could be caused by the inner bearing spinning on the pinion journal because of not enough interference fit. I would measure the pinion journal diameter to see if it's worn.
The pinoin was in spec. No evidence of a spin on the pinion. There was so much wrong with the previous setup throughout that nothing surprises me anymore.
Best video I've seen on rear setup, actually best automotive video I've seen, so clear and informative. Gave me the confidence to do this on my 66 Chevelle 12 bolt. Thanks so much!!!
Thank you for the great compliment, glad I could help!
Great video, next time take the car for a rip to show how well the Yukon branded posi works!
@@rcf8367 Well that would be a blast to smoke some tires, but there is a break in period then a fresh oil change the let her fly. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing this video. I just finished installing my pinion gear and yoke using a Bauer electric corded impact driver that has 300 ft lb of torque and it worked great. All you have to do is hold on to the yoke with one hand and pull the trigger with the other hand, trust me, it will not get away from you. I put a piece of green frog tape down the length of the socket so I could see just how much the socket was turning. Once it is close, you check the preload and go from there. You only have to pull the trigger a second or two at a time watching the tape move, then check it again until it is right where you want it. Much easier than crushing it with a breaker bar.
I have a 3/4" air impact that wouldnd crush the sleeve, I had to breaker bar it. What ever gets the job done is good in my book.
What rear end were you building ?
@@missingdigitgarage8644 Yeah, I hear ya, whatever gets the job done. I just wanted to share my experience that I had in hopes to help you and others get the job done easily. This was my first build and it went fairly smoothly. I was working on a 1968 12 bolt posi.
Excellent video, super in-depth, the best I've seen on RUclips for the GM 12 bolts. I'm going to do a new posi carrier in my old 56 Chevy pick up tomorrow, haven't done one in about 10 years so I'm glad I found this video because I definitely forgot a few things that I just relearned and I definitely picked up some new tips and tricks. Thanks again for the great video
Im glad you enjoyed the vid. Good luck on the 12 bolt. When I do anothe 12 bolt I will be using the crush sleeve eliminator kit. Im getting too old to crush those things...lol
@@missingdigitgarage8644that's what I'm using on this build, a little more messing around with the shims but in case I get a leaky pinion seal in the future. Do you think I'd be safe setting my pinion preload shims for the solid sleeve using the setup bearings?
If your set up bearings are in good shape and possible same brand as whats going to be used, you'll be fine.
Thanks for taking the time to share. Always appreciate when an expert passes along knowledge!
I appreciate that!
Thank you. The best video Ive seen on youtube. Excellent work.
thank you very much.
Best video on RUclips, wish you lived in Williams az. I would have you do mine.
I was just in Williams last week scouting Elk. 1st time up there, beautiful. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Great work. Getting harder to find competent diff mechanics.
Thank you, glad you like the video
Nicely done. I'm doing this job now on my car and appreciate all the tips. I've watched many videos on this and nobody else mentioned inspecting the carrier for wear so thanks for that. I didn't see where you set the pinion depth per the engraved number on the end of the gear. You just go with what was there for pinion shims and adjust as needed?
I go with the OEM start point pinion shim and adjust from there as per the paint pattern . The paint pattern will tell you where you need to go with the pinion depth. Measuring the engraved depth requires more tools. You can achieve the same goal and results using the paint pattern. I hope this helps.
While the way you removed the carrier bearing with the clamshell puller worked, it's supposed to be done with the race on top and both round adjusting discs inside the clam. That way should allow it to be removed without damage and be reused, if needed. There are some YT vids showing this. Cheers
@@Spikasaurus It works fine either way. The bearings dont get damage. Thanks for watching !
Great informtion and step by guide to do this, much appreciated! I'm putting an older original set of 3.31 gears into my 71 chevelle 12 bolt with the same posi unit from Yukon. I saw that you used a thirty thousandths shim on the pinion as a staring point for the pinion depth since the older GM pinions don't have a number on the gear itself to shoot for for the measured depth. Would that also be a good place to start with setting mine up? I did the same thing and made a setup bearing from the old ones so I could easily change them as the shims need to be adjusted. Also what do you think about the crush sleeve eliminator vs. the old school crush sleeve? I thoroughly enjoyed your video thanks so much for sharing this with everybody, you make it look so easy, but I know that's because you know what you're doing lol!
Thanks!
John L
Do the crush eliminator, Its a struggle to crush those things. Especially if its under the car on jack stands. You can use the original shim thickness as a start point if it was set up correctly. If it was not set up correctly, you can use my numbers for the pinion start point and go where the paint markings tell you. Good luck and thanks for watching, Im glad you enjoyed the vid.
VERY INFORMATIVE. GOT 1 QUESTION, ADJUSTMENT IS EVERYTHING,,,,SINCE YOU USED THOSE OLD TRY ON BEARINGS TO DO THE PINION ADJUSTMENT,..WOULDNT PUTTING THE NEW ONES ON CHANGE YOUR ADJUSTMENTS,.. SPECIALLY THE INNER PINION BEARING. THANKS
It all boils down to a good contact paint pattern. Changing setup bearings has little effect on measurements. It does have some but an acceptable paint pattern is the last and end result you want.
@@miguelmaldonado9881 Sorry for the late reply, there would be a slight change in measurements with old bearings. These bearings were in great shape so I was confident It would work. Thanks for watching !
Thanks for your time and hard work. Best video I've seen yet
@@miguelmaldonado9881 They get you close enough to go for a paint pattern. The paint tells all. It does work in a pinch. It is best to use new setups but not a rule.
Those lines on the inner bearing at 23:59 could be caused by the inner bearing spinning on the pinion journal because of not enough interference fit. I would measure the pinion journal diameter to see if it's worn.
The pinoin was in spec. No evidence of a spin on the pinion. There was so much wrong with the previous setup throughout that nothing surprises me anymore.
I always found it weird that the truck 12 bolt was actually weaker than the car 12 bolt.
How much does a job like this usually cost?
You could easely put 2k plus in a rear end with parts and labor
@@missingdigitgarage8644 thanks
Yes I live in northern California parts and labor 2200 .
Love watching your video