heating the ring gear is the best solution, you never want to use the ring gear bolts to draw it up because those are stretch bolts and you will be doing it all over again once the bolts fail at a later time.
Great video. I'm an old car and heavy truck technician and would just like to point out the two holes on each side of the carrier opening that are kind of filled in with dirt. There is actually a tool that uses these holes to spread the case a little bit to help to make it easier to install the caps and shims. I do like the tool that you made from wood and it seemed to work great. This is just FYI.
Yes I am aware of a case spreader. You can get through the job without one. I dont even own one but I always get to my goal. Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great day and good luck on your project. Cheers.
So I just bookmarked the link to this as "Best Dana 35 Video Ever." I have one from 89 (non-C-clip) in my MJ project, and I'll probably keep it for some time. Same deal to go any higher, as my carrier is at the limit with 3.55s.
Great job dude I loved all the instruction you gave along the way. I want to do this to my 1993 Wrangler; I am not sure how I determine if it needs to be shimmed or how much it needs on either side. Great job and thank you!!!!
if you know how to drive and are doing technical 4 wheeling and not pure mudding with your motor wide open, the Dana 35 can do allot and handle allot more than most people say they can.
I am a newby to this but I'm very mechanically savvy and wondering what size tools being used to seating bearings and such?... Looks like a red tool of some sort.
@@missingdigitgarage8644 awesome video my friend. I wish I lived closer I’d love for you to do my re-gear. I love the continuous camera shot so we don’t miss nothing. Am I right that the set was 4.10 or was that an old box? I have 33’s and just ordered the Revolution kit for two axles for my 89 YJ. Gonna go with a Tru Trac lsd in back only for now and maybe save for an manual Ox on the front. I went back and forth and couldn’t decide between 4.10 and 4.56. Gonna be mostly a street rider but want to take er off-roading occasionally.
I do the carrier bearing preload by feel. It takes a small struggle to get the carrier in. The dead blow hammer is your friend during install. There is a method using the inch pound torque wrench and a little math but I perfer the "feel the resistance" way. I hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video! I've got one question though. I looked at the factory service manual for my 1999 Jeep Wrangler with a Dana 35 rear and it says "Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings = 10 - 20 in lbs" and "Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings = 15 - 35 in lbs". Should I use what the manual says or stick with the 14 in lbs that you used?
I use RMS Ron's Machine Service specs on most of my builds. I buy products from them often. Specs will vary from source to source. There is plenty of wiggle room out there. Be confident with your source and duplicate what they require and you should be fine. Thanks for watching.
Watch my other video called "GM 12 bolt " I cover the removal of the bearings. The video you watched was a new carrier so I didnt have to remove the bearings. I hope the video helps. Thanks for watching
@@missingdigitgarage8644 thanks. My carrier was really tight. Had to use a puller. I think there was too much backlash too. Guess I need a shim kit. The bearings all seem ok but was making a whirring noise under acceleration. Could that be from the bad install? It just had one thick shim on each side.
@@guymanicone7921 1 thick shim on each side is a factory custom shim pack. The noise you are hearing could be your pinion bearings. They may need to be changed. They are usually the first to start failing
OOPs I replied to your question in the wrong spot. Shims come with the master install kit. If you just need shims, amazon , quadratec, ect. will have them.
@@missingdigitgarage8644 I was just reading the book and the only place that gets loctite was the flange on the axle shaft tube where the breaks bolt on. I guess a downside is that if someone else services it they wont know it's on there and wont know to use a torch to soften the locktite but if you use the purple locktite it might not be as hard to remove. But now I would have to watch it again to see what color you did use cuz I forgot already.
@@hikerJohn So "The Book" didnt mention that Loctite is used on the ring gear also and the pinion nut? Install kits come with loctite provided in the package. The cap bolts are so strong that any impact or good size ratchet or breaker bar will easily free up the cap bolts even when red loctite is used. Thanks for watching and reaching out. Cheers
As soon as you put the heat gun into the cardboard box to heat the ring gear and then closed the box, l knew everything l needed to know about your knowledge of the subject. You really shouldn't be making videos to teach anyone anything. You should be in a classroom learning. Good luck with your repairs.
Thanks for watching, why does the heat gun turn you off ? Ive done many ring gears over the years this way and never a problem at all. Those gearsets are still going strong for years. If your so good at gearsets, then why are you watching my videos ?
JL owner hear. my axle gear splines and axle gear splines decided to fight. very helpful video thank you
This is hands down the most comprehensive Dana 35 video. Great job
@@redneckchemtech7621 Thank you, glad you enjoyed it !
Hey thanks for posting this man, i gotta rebuild my dana 35 because my pinion gear shattered
Great video , I'm glad I seen this when I did I'm ready to do my dad 35 tomorrow
@@jamesfox4394 Good luck and be patient. Sometimes you got to just walk away for a while then go back later and finish it off.
heating the ring gear is the best solution, you never want to use the ring gear bolts to draw it up because those are stretch bolts and you will be doing it all over again once the bolts fail at a later time.
Great video. I'm an old car and heavy truck technician and would just like to point out the two holes on each side of the carrier opening that are kind of filled in with dirt. There is actually a tool that uses these holes to spread the case a little bit to help to make it easier to install the caps and shims. I do like the tool that you made from wood and it seemed to work great. This is just FYI.
Yes I am aware of a case spreader. You can get through the job without one. I dont even own one but I always get to my goal. Thank you for watching and commenting, have a great day and good luck on your project. Cheers.
I very seldom see it done correctly,very nice,I've done quite a few,that axel is good for a lifetime of highway use
So I just bookmarked the link to this as "Best Dana 35 Video Ever." I have one from 89 (non-C-clip) in my MJ project, and I'll probably keep it for some time. Same deal to go any higher, as my carrier is at the limit with 3.55s.
Thanks for watching, I hope it helps you out.
Great job dude I loved all the instruction you gave along the way. I want to do this to my 1993 Wrangler; I am not sure how I determine if it needs to be shimmed or how much it needs on either side. Great job and thank you!!!!
@@msc1064 ruclips.net/user/live2UkWl4xMigQ?si=UiVKG3bp2eQF6QW9
@@msc1064Thanks for watching... This is an indepth detailed video. Its long but goes deep into setting up a diff. It will be the same as a D35.
they come with the master install kit and you can get shims on amazon and rock auto.
Doing my dana 35 in my yj tomorrow
Very nice work.
Thank you! Cheers!
I have done a dana30 many times,it is the same.
Why would you even bother regearing a Dana 35?
@@Foof50 So you can use 5th gear with bigger tires.
if you know how to drive and are doing technical 4 wheeling and not pure mudding with your motor wide open, the Dana 35 can do allot and handle allot more than most people say they can.
Did you forget to put the oil slinger on before pressing your bearing on the pinion? I didn't see it?
The oil slinger is up by the yoke on this diff
Do u have a video on the dana 30 also
I have a front dana 44 reseal vid that is very similar to the dana 30. The steps are the same on both front diffs.
I am a newby to this but I'm very mechanically savvy and wondering what size tools being used to seating bearings and such?... Looks like a red tool of some sort.
When you say "seat the bearings" Which bearings the carrier or pinion? I may have to review the vid.
Thanks for the walk through. All the work to re-gear, but no LSD or locker to install?
This guy just wanted to gear for his 33" tires, his jeep wouldnt pull 5th anymore.
@@missingdigitgarage8644 awesome video my friend. I wish I lived closer I’d love for you to do my re-gear. I love the continuous camera shot so we don’t miss nothing. Am I right that the set was 4.10 or was that an old box? I have 33’s and just ordered the Revolution kit for two axles for my 89 YJ. Gonna go with a Tru Trac lsd in back only for now and maybe save for an manual Ox on the front. I went back and forth and couldn’t decide between 4.10 and 4.56. Gonna be mostly a street rider but want to take er off-roading occasionally.
I would go with the 4:10 ratio for what you are doing. I hope this helps
How did you determine preload on the axle carrier bearings. Just rolling force/drag
I do the carrier bearing preload by feel. It takes a small struggle to get the carrier in. The dead blow hammer is your friend during install. There is a method using the inch pound torque wrench and a little math but I perfer the "feel the resistance" way. I hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video! I've got one question though. I looked at the factory service manual for my 1999 Jeep Wrangler with a Dana 35 rear and it says "Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings = 10 - 20 in lbs" and "Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings = 15 - 35 in lbs". Should I use what the manual says or stick with the 14 in lbs that you used?
I use RMS Ron's Machine Service specs on most of my builds. I buy products from them often. Specs will vary from source to source. There is plenty of wiggle room out there. Be confident with your source and duplicate what they require and you should be fine. Thanks for watching.
How do u get your set up bearings on and off so easily? Im about todo this exact job next weekend
I open up the inner diameter with a flapper sanding wheel. I believe I show how to do it on the GM 12 bolt regear vid. I hope this helps.
How did you get the pattern read the first time? Did you use the old Pinion before removal?
I installed the new ring and pinion before paint and I get the specs close and go for a pattern read.
How many short trips ? 3 times a day,for how many days.how long to cool?
Keep it slow for about 100 miles. Short trips a few miles at a time. Go inside and shop and drive it again. Fresh oil at 500 miles
How to you pull the old bearings off the carrier
Watch my other video called "GM 12 bolt " I cover the removal of the bearings. The video you watched was a new carrier so I didnt have to remove the bearings. I hope the video helps. Thanks for watching
@@missingdigitgarage8644 thanks. My carrier was really tight. Had to use a puller. I think there was too much backlash too. Guess I need a shim kit. The bearings all seem ok but was making a whirring noise under acceleration. Could that be from the bad install? It just had one thick shim on each side.
@@guymanicone7921 1 thick shim on each side is a factory custom shim pack. The noise you are hearing could be your pinion bearings. They may need to be changed. They are usually the first to start failing
Winner winner. Got the pinion bearing out today. That was the one. Great video, I'm going to use your procedure to set the shims. Ordered a kit today.
What’s the best way to buy shims
OOPs I replied to your question in the wrong spot. Shims come with the master install kit. If you just need shims, amazon , quadratec, ect. will have them.
I dont think the cap bolts are suppose to get locktight.
Why is that ? What could the downside of loctite be ?
@@missingdigitgarage8644 I was just reading the book and the only place that gets loctite was the flange on the axle shaft tube where the breaks bolt on.
I guess a downside is that if someone else services it they wont know it's on there and wont know to use a torch to soften the locktite but if you use the purple locktite it might not be as hard to remove. But now I would have to watch it again to see what color you did use cuz I forgot already.
@@hikerJohn So "The Book" didnt mention that Loctite is used on the ring gear also and the pinion nut? Install kits come with loctite provided in the package. The cap bolts are so strong that any impact or good size ratchet or breaker bar will easily free up the cap bolts even when red loctite is used. Thanks for watching and reaching out. Cheers
As soon as you put the heat gun into the cardboard box to heat the ring gear and then closed the box, l knew everything l needed to know about your knowledge of the subject. You really shouldn't be making videos to teach anyone anything. You should be in a classroom learning. Good luck with your repairs.
Why don’t you make a video teaching then? Or are you just some bum on RUclips that don’t know what they are talking about 🤡
Thanks for watching, why does the heat gun turn you off ? Ive done many ring gears over the years this way and never a problem at all. Those gearsets are still going strong for years. If your so good at gearsets, then why are you watching my videos ?
Thats what I thought, nothing to back up the comment.