I wanted to take a moment to express my most sincere gratitude for putting this video up on youtube. I had to take my axle apart to replace a bent housing and could not have done it without this extremely detailed video. My rig is back on the road again, in part, thanks to you! 🙏
I was today years old when I learned you can do 3.92s in a dana 44 without changing the carrier (thick cut gears). Found your video, now I'm ready! Great video!
Your Gladiator will be just slightly different as you'll have to take apart the FAD as well. I have a JL on my calendar to get done soon and will make a video on it.
Thanks a lot for shearing your experience and knowledge. This video helps me much and i reach a great result. Here in Brazil i didn't find a content as useful like this.
Great video . I am about to regear a Dana 60 in a 55 Chev . Its an Ex drag car with a 4 link ( that i imported from USA to covid free New Zealand ....so after wstching your video i am going to have a go at leaving the housing in place . Thanks for you time making this mate
25 people gave this a thumbs DOWN? JFC,...it was an excellent video. Excuse the back of his head on occasion, but it was necessary for the camera angle on his one man show !! Excellent video, sir !!
Ive done two Sana 35C (with the clipped axle shafts, one Dana 30, and a Dana 44a. Now I need to do the Dana 44 in my 1988 jeep Comanche. Its long enough in between that I have to watch a bunch of videos each time. This seem like the best video Ive ever seen, it has all the tricks and tips.
Hello, try using neoprene none marking big rubber block with your hand on the gear for resistance instead of that Rag and save your fingers Please 🙏 Excellent video I'm doing mine as soon parts arrive same thing on my dodge ram 2500
sorry,yes its a yj.all was replaced.actually my brother did the work,but strange part is they replaced the bearings because there was slack in the bearing,just to find out that after changing it still had slack.im gonna tear it down this evening and look at everything.but thanks
You need to apply some pressure/resistance to get a good readable pattern. Interpreting a pattern is much easier and more accurate if there is resistance applied when running the pattern. If you don't apply pressure the pattern can easily be misinterpreted.
Got a question, watched a handful of your videos and haven’t see this- What if you can hear the backlash from wiggling the pinion but unable to hear the click or get a reading from the ring gear? I assumed that maybe my carrier preload was too much but I’m not using a case spreader so I thought it would be damn hard to do that without a spreader. Can barely move the ring gear by hand. If I do a handful of rotation from the pinion I can eventually get a place to check but not consistently. Appreciate the work you put into your videos. They are a masterclass for someone just learning like me.
It is incredibly difficult to get too much carrier pre-load to where it won't spin. When people ask this question, I tell them to remove the carrier and reinstall it. A lot of the time they will find a shim that fell out of place and got bent behind the race. This causes the carrier to not be seated correctly which can cause the bearing/race combination to be not smooth. Another thought is ring gear run out. If the ring gear is sealed properly and has greater run out than a couple thousandths, it could be a gear issue. Start with pulling it and re-seating it first.
Watched this and the 44 rubi video. Thanks for explaining all this so clearly. - I'm looking forward to gettin this done on my TJ now I have an 01 TJ with a D44 rear. Build sheet says it came with track lock, but it has a standard carrier now, and theres zero carrier preload. Carrier rolls out of the housing under its own weight. Previous owner did some mods apparently. Should I be looking to add preload with master shims on the outside, or shims between bearings and carrier, or does it matter?
Most likely it will have two master shims to the outside of the bearings. Those master shims will be different thicknesses. With it being an open carrier I would put shims under the bearings and still use the masters to the outside. Make setup bearings for this.
Enjoyed the video and have a few of yours added to my playlist. I am refreshing a Dana44 from a ‘79 F150 and putting a Detroit into it. You mention something about high pinion when using the wrench to get the carrier out and move your wench. Where does my wrench need to be on a high pinion to get the carrier out? To first remove the carrier, doubt it has been out in 44 years, any hints or things to think about or try?
After about an hour of trying, I realized and came to terms with A. This is not your first rodeo and it is mine B. You’ve had the carrier out before you used the wrench technique. Ratchet strap and the rafters in my garage did the trick for me. Thanks again!
When using the wrench trick on a low pinion, the wrench goes on the high side, high pinion it goes on the low side. Simply turn the pinion and it should walk right out. If it has high carrier preload then it will require more force. I just did a JL that had a VERY high preload that required me to use a cheater to turn the pinion.
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you! I appreciate the quick response to my questions on a two year old video. Time to start install and using your videos as a guide. Thanks again for sharing your experience! Time to get my own.
First: Great Video... I am thinking of doing one just like it. Maybe... Question: Did I miss the Crush Sleeve or solid spacer, or was one just not used or required? When I re-geared my JKU (3x - I beat it up a lot, LOL), JKUs have a Crush Sleeve on the D30 and D44... The '87 Grand Wagoneer D44 I am getting ready to re-gear does not have one. I am a little confused if they are required or not?
TJ Dana 44's use shims instead of a crush sleeve. TJ Dana 30's use a crush sleeve. A common upgrade for a TJ is a high pinion Dana 30 out of an XJ which uses shims. Another option is a crush sleeve eliminator which is a solid spacer that uses shims.
@@TheBFHGarage Yes. Aware of those. I appreciate your time and the info. Oh.. you are close to 1k.. keep up the good works.. I’m subscribed to you, hope you have subscribed to mine too
Enjoyed the video. Very informational including your method of removing the carrier and using the drill to spin the pinion, don’t know why I didn’t think of it myself 😂. You seem way more knowledgeable then I am in this subject and maybe you can give me an opinion on a noise I’m having from my gear install with about 1200 miles on them now. If you get a chance here’s the link of the noise. I haven’t been able to get any help what so ever on forums and I’m trying to narrow it down before something is destroyed beyond repair.
I listened and cannot hear any noise. The best thing you can do is to take off the diff cover and inspect it. Spin the gears while it's open to see if you can hear where the noise is coming from.
@@TheBFHGarage Hard to hear over the other loud noises, its a constant noise that starts around 20-30mph no matter the load or coasting it doesn't change in pitch. Thanks for the effort. Im suspecting a damaged pinion bearing. I removed everything last weekend and swapped to a solid spacer or the crush sleeve, it all looked good at the time with nothing obvious. I noticed while turning the pinion to check the preload, it feels as if the pinion skips in a certain spot(like a dead spot while rotating) then you feel it catch again.
@@ruralzj90 When you took it apart were all the pinion teeth there? Any metal chunks or shavings? Sounds like it is missing a tooth. Could be a bad bearing too though. Dana 35's are susceptible to failure!
@@TheBFHGarage All teeth were present, bearings appeared fine. There was some silver metal in the gear oil but this was the first gear oil change since install so not sure if that's normal from the break in. Even went as far to double check preload 15 in/lbs, backlash .006" & pattern again and all were fine.
I'm finding different information about the slinger in a TJ D44 rear. When I pulled my axle apart there was no slinger between the pinion head and inner bearing. I'm also reading about a stepped baffle, think it goes after inner race and before preload shims? Anyway, I can't even get that stepped baffle in there. I've got a good pattern with the large slinger in place like you did, just wondering before pressing it all together as I didn't have one originally?
Very in depth man, cant thank you for this enough! I do have a few questions though. I've got a 2000 TJ with 44 rear and 30 front with 3.73's. I'd like to do exactly what you've done here in the rear and just regear the 30 to match. I've seen that if I have 3.73 or lower I need "thick" gears to go up. Do you happen to have an exact parts list for everything needed to do what you did in this video. Sorry to ask just a bit confused. Thanks! Just fyi I'm on 35s wanting to go 4.88s or 5.13s
I don't want to add a parts list because it will be different for a Rubicon or if somebody has a high pinion 30 like I do. As far as carrier breaks, the Dana 44 carrier break is 3:73/3:92. What this means is that if you currently have 3:73 and lower (numerically) gears, you will need a new carrier to run gears 3:92 and higher (numerically). You can get around the carrier break by using thick cut gears.
Which axles have crush sleeves? I'm watching videos like yours to learn how to do gears in my JL. Other videos mention crush sleeves, but it didn't seem like yours had one.
This Jeep was a '97-'06 version where the Dana 44's use shims. The front axles on these Jeeps (non-rubicon) use crush sleeves. Rubicons have Dana 44's front and rear and use shims. JK's use crush sleeves. A lot of people choose to replace it with a crush sleeve eliminator as crush sleeves are very difficult to get started and are easy to overtorque. JL's also use crush sleeves. Hope this helps.
@@bingobandit I've never heard of a 25 ft/lbs spec. Ever. As far as the other specs, there can be a range, usually 160-210 ft/lbs. When using a crush sleeve, it will be what it will be once you reach the correct pre-load. Consult the FSM if you're not sure. Usually anything above the 160 mark with red loctite is good.
@@TheBFHGarage I was seeing 25 inch pounds? But if I google Dana 44 it's 200 to 225 ft lbs. Some forums show 160 to 200 ft lbs. I think the confusion for me is the reload of 25 inch pounds and thinking you were talking about the pinion nut. Thanks.
@bingobandit depends on whether your talking pinion pre-load or carrier pre-load. Pinion pre-load yes, it's measurable. Carrier pre-load isn't that easy so the best way to do it is to add enough shims that you can't pull it out by hand.
I have question: my dana 44 was bent so I bought new housing from the dealer to put the part from the bent one on the new housing, the question is do we need to do all this process or just put the part back, I’m using all same parts because just housing was bent, please I need an answer. Thanks!
Good vid! Good instructions! Why no lube while pressing pinion bearing? Reason,or just personal preference? With the right size press,prob dont need lube,but could def help against tiny scratches. Any insight? Thank you. Subscribed.
I recently purchased Torsen differential for Dana 44 online. Unit is apparently older version but new in box. Gleason MFG part #M005-BB. Dimensions seem same as factory carrier except carrier bearing hub is slightly larger measuring 1.7995. I believe I've found a bearing cone that will work. Looks like the Timken 25590 will be needed instead of the 25577. The shims however won't work. Are you familiar with this situation and how did you solve it.?
While I'm not familiar with the Torsen product specifically, I have had to take a Dremel with a sanding drum to make shims slide over the journal. Aftermarket specs are all over the place as far as accuracy.
Very nice video ! I am regearing Dana 44 to 4.88 with new Eaton differential, and having problems selecting correct size carrier side bearings shims . What sizes would you suggest to use as a starting point for each side ? Factory original shims are way too thick for new differential. Install kit came with couple thick shims and bunch of paper fin shims. Any suggestion would be really helpfull
There is no magic number. Did you try installing the carrier and couldn't get it in or was there zero backlash when you did? You might have to build a shim stack in place of one of the thicker ones. You might even have to not use the factory ones at all. Usually though you can use one.
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you for a quick response . I did did build a shim stacks on both sides . unfortunately when trying smack differential in place with dead blow , smaller shims start to bend . I might try use factory shim on one side ( just like you suggested ) and build a shim stack on the other . Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us amatures !
Great question! If the gear manufacturer had specs, I use them as to maintain warranty. I taught myself but had a lot of input from a guy who owned a gear shop for 40 years. The factory service manual will tell you to set pinion preload 20-40 in/lbs for new bearings but anyone who has done this long enough will tell you 16-20 is the right range. So long story short, it's a combination of things with some experience.
@@jorgebolivar I recently uploaded another gearing video for a Rubicon if that's what you have. I have several gearing videos posted on my channel to help you out.
Nope you should be good. I would certainly check your backlash and run a pattern both before and after just to compare. You want the same backlash that was in there so the gears run on the same hardened surface.
So after watching your videos and finally building the confidence to do my own gears in my 2015 jk (non-rubicon), I tore my axles apart lastnight and realized my rear dana 44 did not have any inner axle seals. is this normal? and when i do go to install the new inner axle seales i will be installing the new axle/bearing combo from revolution gears, but do i need to pre-grease those outer axle bearings?
In the rear axles, there are no inner seals, only outer seals. The bearings get their lube from the differential, which has to travel down the axle tube. When installing the new axles, put grease on the seal, and then squirt some gear lube on the bearings right as you install them into the axle.
@@TheBFHGarage Great video friend, learning tons from you. I have a 2015 JKU sport and have watched all your ARB videos as well. I have a JKU sport with 3.73 and I want to add ARB lockers only. The question is: Have you ever had to enlarg/re-drill the holes of the ARB carrier to 7/16 or 1/2 inch? I am not sure what size the JK has ..... do you? but I want to be prepare before I start the job. The ARB manual says it might be necessary to do it but I can't find information of people doing it .... Cheers
@@TheBFHGarage thanks for the reply, munch appreciated. So you have only used then 3/8 for your ARB installation? And you have encountered that OEM ring gear do come double drill with 3/8 & 1/2 on the JK’s? Thanks in advance friend
You can do it one of two ways. Shims behind the race or shims between the bearing and pinion head. I added a slinger between the head and bearing that was thick. I had to change it out to a thinner slinger and added the needed difference behind the race. I could have pulled the bearing off again but decided to just use a set up race to get it dialed in.
Good video but not quite sure why he would want to fk around so much taking the carrier in and out and checking patterns for pinion depth when it is so easy do the initial check with a caliper. Takes 5 minutes to set the initial depth. That's why they put the measurement on the end of the pinion.
Not all pinions have the same markings. A pinion depth tool isn't cheap and expensive for the DIY mechanic. Plus, you most likely will need to adjust anyway. The easiest thing to do is start with the previous shim depth. It may take one more try is all after that.
@@TheBFHGarage You do not require a pinion depth tool. The calipers you were using and a rigid flat piece of steel are all you need. A bit of math skills and you have your answer. I have never seen a pinion that did not have the "ran in" depth markings on the end.
I am getting ready to do a dana 44 swap into my 09 jeep wrangler unlimited x I do not have previous shims as a starting point any suggestions to get my shims right for pinion and carrier?
I usually start my pinion depth around 60-65 thou and just take it from there. Add enough shims to the carrier to make it snug yet still have some sort of backlash. Then check actual backlash and adjust it to within spec. Take a pattern and see where you're at and adjust accordingly. 60-65 thou on pinion depth should start you off shallow and you can go from there.
@@TheBFHGarage almost forgot I am going with a limited slip carrier for the front. Am I able to still use your shim method on the outside of the bearing and race or do I need to put the shims on the carrier before putting on the bearing and race?
If you are using stock axles with stock carriers/LSD, then set it up the same way it came out. If the shims were inboard of the bearings then do the same. If they are outside the bearing, then do the same. It's when you get to aftermarket products that you need to follow their specific instructions.
Running the pattern was very hard to watch. Not a smart thing to do put in your hand in a meat grinder lol. Someone’s going to get hurt by watching that.
If you're afraid to do that, then leave it to professionals. You have to have resistance to get a good pattern. And I'd hardly call that a meat grinder. My other have controls the drill. If it slips I stop.
Yes... as a mechanical engineer, I say your differential install is excellently done perfectly the way it should be. Great job. Hats off. And your barber does a great job too. 😊
I don’t remember anyone else pressing the bearing on using the cup and having the pinion upside down so you don’t need the perfect size piece of pipe. So you can just cut the old bearing off and slit the inner race and then you have the perfect tool to do the pressing. Another great technique like so many in this video.
Luz na przekładni sprawdza się w 4 miejscach na okręgu,wiadomo to robi maszyna ale warto sprawdzić,tak samo jak się kręci przekładnia na 360⁰. Co do przykręcania zębatki to brawo na 2 razy, ale ja zastosowałbym klej do gwintów (średnia moc, też dałbym klej na podkowach które trzymają przekładnię). Warto też przed każdym montażem takich śrub sprawdzić gwinty na śrubach i gwint wewnętrzny . Nie każdy stosuje olej lub smar(miedź lub grafitowy) pod podkładki lub pod łeb śruby aby moment dociagania był jednakowy na wszystkich śrubach. Przy zwykłych śrubach lub płytkich gwintach należy uważać bo smar zwiększa docisk po przez redukcję tarcia pod podkładką i łbem śruby. Gratulacje nie każdy sprawdza ułożenie wałka atakującego ,A zakres rozkładania się zębów wałka atakującego warto sprawdzić na całym zakresie dużej zębatki. Bo przekładnia z zębami skośnymi jest bardziej wrażliwa na zbyt ciasne spasowanie jak i na za duży luz.. A dlatego myślałem o kleju do gwintów bo przy terenowych autach gdzie jest redukcja,duże koła nacisk na przekładnie jest naprawdę duży. Warto nawet skontrolować przekładnie planetarną i podkładki i sworznie w niej,tak aby opiłkowała z powodu dużych luzów i nie równomiernego nacisku na pojedynczych wypustach zębatki. Pozdrawiam z PL.
I’ve heard it’s not super important to be perfectly centered on the marking compound as long as you are a little shallow because it’s much less likely to crack a tooth compared to too deep. With daily driver type lower horsepower vehicles of course that aren’t a race car. I did a 72 mustang and went from 2.79 to 3.55 and I was a little bit more on the shallow side than you ended up but it has held up fine. That motor is a 302 with about 200 something horsepower pretty much stock but with ported heads, small 4 barrel, and a mild cam.
good info on using new bearings for setups, I learned that lesson after I used a set of old bearings for setups, got everything dialed in with the setups, changed to the new bearings and damn it was off, live and learn
I just got bolts for ring gear and it says to torque 125 - 135 LBB .FT . I did 80 like u got same wrench i made home vice with climbing rope rim and tire 🛞flipped put old axle and the carrier in it tightened with rope it rap around it and lock 80 seems tight . More id rip the rope 😅
Nice video, one of the few that takes you through the whole process. Quick question: how do you set the carrier bearing preload? I heard you saying: "It should take you a few good whacks" but I'd like to know if there's a more scientific approach. Thanks.
Great question! There is no real way to "measure" carrier preload. When gears are set at the factory, they use a housing spreader and simply drop extra shims in on the side and then release the spreader. If you are installing without a spreader, then the most common way is to add enough shims that it requires you to use a deadblow hammer to set the case all the way. It's a fine line between not enough and too many shims. You shouldn't be able to pull the carrier or by hand. The factory states to not spread the housing more than 15 thousandths of and inch.
I suppose you could but no need really. I get the carrier to where it's snug to push in by hand and then add shims for pre-load. It should take 6-8 whacks with a deadblow hammer to get it in. With experience you can feel when it's correct based on how hard it is to get in as well as how difficult it is to remove.
There are two videos on Utube that I've found that tell how to set the carrier preload. After you set the pinion preload, you put the carrier in and recheck the preload. You make the career tighter (add shim) until you've added 5-8 inch pounds of torque to whatever the pinion preload was. There are variations depending on the differential make and model, but the only one I found in about 50 to 70 hours of Utube instructionals on differentials was an old differential, like 1970s or earlier. It was SIU automotive that I first heard it from. But at Least one other good video said the same thing.
@@TheBFHGarage OTC sells that housing spreader. Any place that sells OTC tools can get you that tool. Unfortunately it’s almost a different tool for every Dana diff.
Im so broke im about to install thick gears on my TJ sport D44 3.73 track lock carrier... My plan is to use it until the limited slip clutch discs wear out and then by that time I can either weld the side gears to the carrier/mini spool it or fit in a lunchbox locker as it should be a more dedicated weekend rig by then. Normally Id wait and save up for an ARB or elocker but its my daily right now and unfortunatley the rear pinion nut backed off and smashed the shim pack on a long trip. I luckily caught it early changing the pinion seal and replaced the outer bearing and shims, setting the preload back to 5 inch lbs for the used inner pinion bearing. Ive driven on it awhile with no sounds but im paranoid and just want to take care of it ASAP.
I'm getting ready to install a Detroit trutrac in my dana 44 and was wondering if the carrier shims go under the bearings or on the outside of the bearings? Awesome video by the way.
@@TheBFHGarage Subscribed! Got mine all apart and found a giant washer (1/8" thick, 3.5" OD, 2" ID) in pieces and laying in the pocket of oil under the pinion shaft. Trying to make heads or tails of where it came from...it's not a giant factory shim is it? I'd hate to see the amount of pinion shim kits I'd have to buy to restack in place of that monster!
@@rhoadizzle It could be. Take a few pics of your washer pieces and of the inside of your pumpkin and send them to thebfhgarage@gmail.com and I'll take a look when I have time.
As always, excellent video. I’m good with all the regear principles, I was just hoping to see all the details on carrier and pinion shims. As in like what the cause and effect (math) of the shim adj does. Like .001” on the pinion decreases back lash like .003”? I’ve only done 2 regear jobs, a 04 Jeep and a 76 vette. I’ll figure it out though, doing my jk in the next few days after I pull the d44 out. Thanks for taking time to document this😊
Hey, I'm up in Longmont. I'm getting the things together to do 4.88's on my 16 Rubicon. Just wanted to say thanks for putting the info out there, it's much appreciated. I've always wanted to set up a diff, I'm looking forward to doing it in the fall.
Awesome video, thanks for filming this. Do. you know if there are any differences between the dana 44 rubicon and dana 44 thats in a TJ. I mean besides the locker?
Outside of the pumpkin everything else is the same with the exception that Rubicons all had disc brakes. Inside the pumpkin, the locker is slightly wider than a normal carrier. You can use an aftermarket locker such as an ARB but it'll take a few more shims to get the proper preload. Rubicons also used a thick ring gear.
Got a question? 2015 Jeep wrangler Willy’s spider gears broke, replaced and had to replace both passenger and driver shaft bearings and they blew apart!
Your attention to detail really appeared to have paid off. Looked fine at end of vid. Was this originally an open carrier? And did you add any friction mod to the gear oil?
Woo Hoo, Your videos are awesome I just came back to watch this one one last time as I get ready for final assembly. You took all the mystery out of making this overwhelming job manageable. Thanks
So, I don't see you using a crush sleeve? Are you using a crush sleeve eliminator? If using the eliminator, you should have showed the shimming to preload? If using a crush sleeve, you should have shown how to crush it to preload? I am confused on your pinion setup?
@@TheBFHGarage I get it now, after going to the very beginning of the video and looking at the pinion. |The machined step just past the splines where the cone bearing rides acts as the part that I would call the sleeve or crush sleeve. Thanks for the reply! Great video.
First, Great content on jeeps, second with the growing popularity of Jeep WJs for 4x4 builds would you consider re-gear video on the Aluminum Dana 44HD? I re-geared my 44HD from the 3.73s to 4.56 with an ARB and Revolution gears using your RUclips How to re-gear a Dana 44 as a guide, but have gear grinding /winning noise.
You can take a TJ Dana 44 to 5:38 but if you have a front Dana 30, you can only go 5:13. The only regears of a lower ratio I have seen have been to replace a broken set.
@@TheBFHGarage sure, I have some jeeps, one has an H.O forged internals and I want anything besides 3.73.. when do they feel right on the thing, but esides going slow, I'd love to push these overland 3.73 axles into a four.0 , at least the front !!
Definitely an excellent video! I've done several of my 8.5" Chevy's and one of my 9". My Dana 44's are next on my TJ, and they will be my first 44s. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
So I have a question for you if you don't mind.... I have pulled my pinion gear and it doesn't have a crush collar it has shims... And I'm not regearing it only putting new bearings races and seals I shouldn't have to change my shims... So my question is when I put my pinion back in I just go ahead and tighten companion flange to specified torque and call it a day??? Thanks in advance
Great video, thanks. One question though, why route the copper line over the ring gear? Seems like a possible issue if that copper line gets snagged...Can you not have the air line bulkhead on the driver side of the ring gear? Sorry total noob with air lockers.
Trying to install it with a short rigid line is very difficult to do without damaging it. Keeping the line long allows it to flex into place. There is plenty of room there.
best vid I've ever seen on setting up gears and the ARB. thanks for this, brother!
Thanks! I appreciate the compliment. I'll be adding more gearing videos in the future so stay tuned and subscribe if you haven't already.
if you say so lol
Wish you were closer to Oklahoma- I’d be throwing some $ your way to install mine!
I wanted to take a moment to express my most sincere gratitude for putting this video up on youtube. I had to take my axle apart to replace a bent housing and could not have done it without this extremely detailed video. My rig is back on the road again, in part, thanks to you! 🙏
That's awesome to hear! Glad it helped out!
After watching this, I'm not sure I trust a shop to do it right! Best video I've seen on regearing.
Thanks for the compliment!
So many great toss in this videos that the 'pros' never mentioned. Great video
Because they want your business!
Great Video from someone who has experience and common sense. Good demostration of how not to overcomplicate things. Thank you!
I was today years old when I learned you can do 3.92s in a dana 44 without changing the carrier (thick cut gears). Found your video, now I'm ready! Great video!
Thank you for this! Very thorough and clear, your tip with the wrench to remove the carrier is genius!
Great video. I’ve watched it three different times and confident that I’ll be able to re-gear my Gladiator. Thank you.
Your Gladiator will be just slightly different as you'll have to take apart the FAD as well. I have a JL on my calendar to get done soon and will make a video on it.
Yo, this video is a clean, methodical, by the numbers setup for this locker. Keep doing what you’re doing bro!
Thanks for the compliment!
Thanks a lot for shearing your experience and knowledge. This video helps me much and i reach a great result. Here in Brazil i didn't find a content as useful like this.
Glad it helped you out!
That is an absolutely brilliant video. Very clear content. Well done...
First time in and with a nice pattern. Thanks for tips. Especially the one for removing carrier with the wrench
Thanks, you're welcome!
Great video . I am about to regear a Dana 60 in a 55 Chev . Its an Ex drag car with a 4 link ( that i imported from USA to covid free New Zealand ....so after wstching your video i am going to have a go at leaving the housing in place . Thanks for you time making this mate
Gotta LOVE those big old shower towels.
25 people gave this a thumbs DOWN? JFC,...it was an excellent video. Excuse the back of his head on occasion, but it was necessary for the camera angle on his one man show !! Excellent video, sir !!
I've watched a lot of excellent videos on youtube and they all have thumbs down. No biggie as long as it helps the intended users!
Ive done two Sana 35C (with the clipped axle shafts, one Dana 30, and a Dana 44a. Now I need to do the Dana 44 in my 1988 jeep Comanche. Its long enough in between that I have to watch a bunch of videos each time. This seem like the best video Ive ever seen, it has all the tricks and tips.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Hello, try using neoprene none marking big rubber block with your hand on the gear for resistance instead of that Rag and save your fingers Please 🙏 Excellent video I'm doing mine as soon parts arrive same thing on my dodge ram 2500
It is refreshing to watch someone that cares enough about their work to do it correctly! Bravo Sir!
Dam this is a really good video. I needed this video
Nice video Bud, i love installing gears!!!
sorry,yes its a yj.all was replaced.actually my brother did the work,but strange part is they replaced the bearings because there was slack in the bearing,just to find out that after changing it still had slack.im gonna tear it down this evening and look at everything.but thanks
Awesome video this helps a lot! Question though, why do you have to hold the carrier with a glove when you’re checking the pattern?
You need to apply some pressure/resistance to get a good readable pattern. Interpreting a pattern is much easier and more accurate if there is resistance applied when running the pattern. If you don't apply pressure the pattern can easily be misinterpreted.
Ace video simply the best video bro
Got a question, watched a handful of your videos and haven’t see this- What if you can hear the backlash from wiggling the pinion but unable to hear the click or get a reading from the ring gear? I assumed that maybe my carrier preload was too much but I’m not using a case spreader so I thought it would be damn hard to do that without a spreader.
Can barely move the ring gear by hand. If I do a handful of rotation from the pinion I can eventually get a place to check but not consistently.
Appreciate the work you put into your videos. They are a masterclass for someone just learning like me.
It is incredibly difficult to get too much carrier pre-load to where it won't spin. When people ask this question, I tell them to remove the carrier and reinstall it. A lot of the time they will find a shim that fell out of place and got bent behind the race. This causes the carrier to not be seated correctly which can cause the bearing/race combination to be not smooth. Another thought is ring gear run out. If the ring gear is sealed properly and has greater run out than a couple thousandths, it could be a gear issue.
Start with pulling it and re-seating it first.
Nice job and video. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Just a tip make yourself an oversized pinion bearing so you don’t have to struggle getting it off👍
I have set up bearing I use normally. I was trying to reuse a slinger in this video.
Great video thanks for sharing.
Watched this and the 44 rubi video. Thanks for explaining all this so clearly. - I'm looking forward to gettin this done on my TJ now I have an 01 TJ with a D44 rear. Build sheet says it came with track lock, but it has a standard carrier now, and theres zero carrier preload. Carrier rolls out of the housing under its own weight. Previous owner did some mods apparently. Should I be looking to add preload with master shims on the outside, or shims between bearings and carrier, or does it matter?
Most likely it will have two master shims to the outside of the bearings. Those master shims will be different thicknesses. With it being an open carrier I would put shims under the bearings and still use the masters to the outside. Make setup bearings for this.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks, makes sense.
Enjoyed the video and have a few of yours added to my playlist. I am refreshing a Dana44 from a ‘79 F150 and putting a Detroit into it. You mention something about high pinion when using the wrench to get the carrier out and move your wench. Where does my wrench need to be on a high pinion to get the carrier out? To first remove the carrier, doubt it has been out in 44 years, any hints or things to think about or try?
After about an hour of trying, I realized and came to terms with A. This is not your first rodeo and it is mine B. You’ve had the carrier out before you used the wrench technique. Ratchet strap and the rafters in my garage did the trick for me. Thanks again!
When using the wrench trick on a low pinion, the wrench goes on the high side, high pinion it goes on the low side. Simply turn the pinion and it should walk right out. If it has high carrier preload then it will require more force. I just did a JL that had a VERY high preload that required me to use a cheater to turn the pinion.
@@BrokenDreamsRacing improvise, adapt, overcome!
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you! I appreciate the quick response to my questions on a two year old video. Time to start install and using your videos as a guide. Thanks again for sharing your experience! Time to get my own.
Masterclass on re-gearing! Where do I sign up for more?
More videos on the channel👍
First: Great Video... I am thinking of doing one just like it. Maybe...
Question: Did I miss the Crush Sleeve or solid spacer, or was one just not used or required? When I re-geared my JKU (3x - I beat it up a lot, LOL), JKUs have a Crush Sleeve on the D30 and D44... The '87 Grand Wagoneer D44 I am getting ready to re-gear does not have one. I am a little confused if they are required or not?
TJ Dana 44's use shims instead of a crush sleeve. TJ Dana 30's use a crush sleeve. A common upgrade for a TJ is a high pinion Dana 30 out of an XJ which uses shims. Another option is a crush sleeve eliminator which is a solid spacer that uses shims.
@@TheBFHGarage Yes. Aware of those. I appreciate your time and the info. Oh.. you are close to 1k..
keep up the good works.. I’m subscribed to you, hope you have subscribed to mine too
Enjoyed the video. Very informational including your method of removing the carrier and using the drill to spin the pinion, don’t know why I didn’t think of it myself 😂. You seem way more knowledgeable then I am in this subject and maybe you can give me an opinion on a noise I’m having from my gear install with about 1200 miles on them now. If you get a chance here’s the link of the noise. I haven’t been able to get any help what so ever on forums and I’m trying to narrow it down before something is destroyed beyond repair.
ruclips.net/video/Dd3IcilOQrs/видео.html
I listened and cannot hear any noise. The best thing you can do is to take off the diff cover and inspect it. Spin the gears while it's open to see if you can hear where the noise is coming from.
@@TheBFHGarage Hard to hear over the other loud noises, its a constant noise that starts around 20-30mph no matter the load or coasting it doesn't change in pitch. Thanks for the effort. Im suspecting a damaged pinion bearing. I removed everything last weekend and swapped to a solid spacer or the crush sleeve, it all looked good at the time with nothing obvious. I noticed while turning the pinion to check the preload, it feels as if the pinion skips in a certain spot(like a dead spot while rotating) then you feel it catch again.
@@ruralzj90 When you took it apart were all the pinion teeth there? Any metal chunks or shavings? Sounds like it is missing a tooth. Could be a bad bearing too though. Dana 35's are susceptible to failure!
@@TheBFHGarage All teeth were present, bearings appeared fine. There was some silver metal in the gear oil but this was the first gear oil change since install so not sure if that's normal from the break in. Even went as far to double check preload 15 in/lbs, backlash .006" & pattern again and all were fine.
I'm finding different information about the slinger in a TJ D44 rear. When I pulled my axle apart there was no slinger between the pinion head and inner bearing. I'm also reading about a stepped baffle, think it goes after inner race and before preload shims? Anyway, I can't even get that stepped baffle in there. I've got a good pattern with the large slinger in place like you did, just wondering before pressing it all together as I didn't have one originally?
I've seen them with and without the slinger and with and without the baffle. I'm not too worried about either. If you have a good pattern, run it!
Very in depth man, cant thank you for this enough! I do have a few questions though. I've got a 2000 TJ with 44 rear and 30 front with 3.73's. I'd like to do exactly what you've done here in the rear and just regear the 30 to match. I've seen that if I have 3.73 or lower I need "thick" gears to go up. Do you happen to have an exact parts list for everything needed to do what you did in this video. Sorry to ask just a bit confused. Thanks! Just fyi I'm on 35s wanting to go 4.88s or 5.13s
I don't want to add a parts list because it will be different for a Rubicon or if somebody has a high pinion 30 like I do.
As far as carrier breaks, the Dana 44 carrier break is 3:73/3:92. What this means is that if you currently have 3:73 and lower (numerically) gears, you will need a new carrier to run gears 3:92 and higher (numerically). You can get around the carrier break by using thick cut gears.
@@TheBFHGarage I got, thanks for the info!
is a excelent expicacion.! is good for me... i have a jeep like this... sorry for my wrong inglish...
Which axles have crush sleeves? I'm watching videos like yours to learn how to do gears in my JL. Other videos mention crush sleeves, but it didn't seem like yours had one.
This Jeep was a '97-'06 version where the Dana 44's use shims. The front axles on these Jeeps (non-rubicon) use crush sleeves. Rubicons have Dana 44's front and rear and use shims. JK's use crush sleeves. A lot of people choose to replace it with a crush sleeve eliminator as crush sleeves are very difficult to get started and are easy to overtorque. JL's also use crush sleeves. Hope this helps.
I found over and over the specs for pinion nut to be 200 ft lbs to 225 ft lbs. Some vids I saw were as low as 25 inch lbs. confused?
@@bingobandit I've never heard of a 25 ft/lbs spec. Ever. As far as the other specs, there can be a range, usually 160-210 ft/lbs. When using a crush sleeve, it will be what it will be once you reach the correct pre-load. Consult the FSM if you're not sure. Usually anything above the 160 mark with red loctite is good.
@@TheBFHGarage I was seeing 25 inch pounds? But if I google Dana 44 it's 200 to 225 ft lbs. Some forums show 160 to 200 ft lbs. I think the confusion for me is the reload of 25 inch pounds and thinking you were talking about the pinion nut. Thanks.
I think you're confusing it with the pinion PRE-LOAD target of 16-20 INCH pounds.
@@TheBFHGarage Yes, I'm still wonder how you set preload on a Dana 44? Don't think it possible.
@bingobandit depends on whether your talking pinion pre-load or carrier pre-load. Pinion pre-load yes, it's measurable. Carrier pre-load isn't that easy so the best way to do it is to add enough shims that you can't pull it out by hand.
I have question: my dana 44 was bent so I bought new housing from the dealer to put the part from the bent one on the new housing, the question is do we need to do all this process or just put the part back, I’m using all same parts because just housing was bent, please I need an answer. Thanks!
All housings are different. You will most likely need to do the entire setup!
is this differential and aluminum housing
No
Good vid! Good instructions! Why no lube while pressing pinion bearing? Reason,or just personal preference? With the right size press,prob dont need lube,but could def help against tiny scratches. Any insight? Thank you. Subscribed.
I have no preference really. I've never had an issue either way.
I recently purchased Torsen differential for Dana 44 online. Unit is apparently older version but new in box. Gleason MFG part #M005-BB. Dimensions seem same as factory carrier except carrier bearing hub is slightly larger measuring 1.7995. I believe I've found a bearing cone that will work. Looks like the Timken 25590 will be needed instead of the 25577. The shims however won't work. Are you familiar with this situation and how did you solve it.?
While I'm not familiar with the Torsen product specifically, I have had to take a Dremel with a sanding drum to make shims slide over the journal. Aftermarket specs are all over the place as far as accuracy.
@@TheBFHGarage Do you know the diameter of the Air locker hub of the bearing number that you use?
@@johnbowling798 not off the top of my head.
Very nice video ! I am regearing Dana 44 to 4.88 with new Eaton differential, and having problems selecting correct size carrier side bearings shims . What sizes would you suggest to use as a starting point for each side ? Factory original shims are way too thick for new differential. Install kit came with couple thick shims and bunch of paper fin shims. Any suggestion would be really helpfull
There is no magic number. Did you try installing the carrier and couldn't get it in or was there zero backlash when you did? You might have to build a shim stack in place of one of the thicker ones. You might even have to not use the factory ones at all. Usually though you can use one.
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you for a quick response . I did did build a shim stacks on both sides . unfortunately when trying smack differential in place with dead blow , smaller shims start to bend . I might try use factory shim on one side ( just like you suggested ) and build a shim stack on the other . Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us amatures !
What state or where are you located, I need a gear change from 3.55 to 4.10 on a 97 Dodge Ram. Great video
Colorado. I only work on Wranglers! Sorry!
Where do you grab the backlash and such specs? Locker manufacturer, R&P gear manufacturer or Jeep?
Great question! If the gear manufacturer had specs, I use them as to maintain warranty. I taught myself but had a lot of input from a guy who owned a gear shop for 40 years. The factory service manual will tell you to set pinion preload 20-40 in/lbs for new bearings but anyone who has done this long enough will tell you 16-20 is the right range. So long story short, it's a combination of things with some experience.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks! Great and complete answer. I will be regearing my LJ soon, probably will see your video a few more times.
@@jorgebolivar I recently uploaded another gearing video for a Rubicon if that's what you have. I have several gearing videos posted on my channel to help you out.
@@TheBFHGarage Defitnetly will look into them. Yes, I have a Rubicon but like to go to 5.38. Thanks!
If I’m reusing the same gears and just changing the open carrier to a locker is checking the pinion depth necessary?
Nope you should be good. I would certainly check your backlash and run a pattern both before and after just to compare. You want the same backlash that was in there so the gears run on the same hardened surface.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the advice.
So after watching your videos and finally building the confidence to do my own gears in my 2015 jk (non-rubicon), I tore my axles apart lastnight and realized my rear dana 44 did not have any inner axle seals. is this normal? and when i do go to install the new inner axle seales i will be installing the new axle/bearing combo from revolution gears, but do i need to pre-grease those outer axle bearings?
In the rear axles, there are no inner seals, only outer seals. The bearings get their lube from the differential, which has to travel down the axle tube. When installing the new axles, put grease on the seal, and then squirt some gear lube on the bearings right as you install them into the axle.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you very much for that. I was getting confused as to how they would stay lubed lol. Do you have a Patreon page?
@@WestTexasOverlanders I don't.
@@TheBFHGarage well if you do create one, let me know and I would be willing to contribute monthly.
@@WestTexasOverlanders I appreciate that!
GDay great video my question is your locker the RD117 ?
Mine is the RD116. The RD117 can be used for deeper gears if they are thick cut gears.
@@TheBFHGarage Great video friend, learning tons from you.
I have a 2015 JKU sport and have watched all your ARB videos as well. I have a JKU sport with 3.73 and I want to add ARB lockers only. The question is: Have you ever had to enlarg/re-drill the holes of the ARB carrier to 7/16 or 1/2 inch? I am not sure what size the JK has ..... do you? but I want to be prepare before I start the job. The ARB manual says it might be necessary to do it but I can't find information of people doing it ....
Cheers
@@nestorcinotti1457 No. Most ring gears now are double drilled for either size do you shouldn't have a problem.
@@TheBFHGarage thanks for the reply, munch appreciated. So you have only used then 3/8 for your ARB installation? And you have encountered that OEM ring gear do come double drill with 3/8 & 1/2 on the JK’s?
Thanks in advance friend
@@nestorcinotti1457 I use whatever the carrier or locker is drilled to
Why did you think you wouldnt need shims behind the inner pinion race? Every one I do takes around .030"ish,
You can do it one of two ways. Shims behind the race or shims between the bearing and pinion head. I added a slinger between the head and bearing that was thick. I had to change it out to a thinner slinger and added the needed difference behind the race. I could have pulled the bearing off again but decided to just use a set up race to get it dialed in.
Is this the same for the dana 44 A/HD from a 98 grand cherokee?
Yes
@@TheBFHGarage have you ever used a crush sleeve eliminator on a dana 44?
@@lorton557 on a JK. The TJ D44's use shims.
The 98 44 A/HD has a crush sleeve are the pinions the same from a tj dana 44 to the dana 44 A/HD?
@lorton557 I don't know the answer to that off the top of my head... However, the regear process is the same.
Good video but not quite sure why he would want to fk around so much taking the carrier in and out and checking patterns for pinion depth when it is so easy do the initial check with a caliper. Takes 5 minutes to set the initial depth. That's why they put the measurement on the end of the pinion.
Not all pinions have the same markings. A pinion depth tool isn't cheap and expensive for the DIY mechanic. Plus, you most likely will need to adjust anyway. The easiest thing to do is start with the previous shim depth. It may take one more try is all after that.
@@TheBFHGarage You do not require a pinion depth tool. The calipers you were using and a rigid flat piece of steel are all you need. A bit of math skills and you have your answer. I have never seen a pinion that did not have the "ran in" depth markings on the end.
I have never seen anyone make it so compilated ?
Snicks, can you post a link to your video?
I am getting ready to do a dana 44 swap into my 09 jeep wrangler unlimited x I do not have previous shims as a starting point any suggestions to get my shims right for pinion and carrier?
I usually start my pinion depth around 60-65 thou and just take it from there. Add enough shims to the carrier to make it snug yet still have some sort of backlash. Then check actual backlash and adjust it to within spec. Take a pattern and see where you're at and adjust accordingly. 60-65 thou on pinion depth should start you off shallow and you can go from there.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you for the advice. I will use that to get it where it needs to be.
@@TheBFHGarage almost forgot I am going with a limited slip carrier for the front. Am I able to still use your shim method on the outside of the bearing and race or do I need to put the shims on the carrier before putting on the bearing and race?
If you are using stock axles with stock carriers/LSD, then set it up the same way it came out. If the shims were inboard of the bearings then do the same. If they are outside the bearing, then do the same. It's when you get to aftermarket products that you need to follow their specific instructions.
@@TheBFHGarage I am using dana 44 axle assembly with j8 tubing
Car lift brand?
It's an old 1980's Rotary lift.
💯
Looking for someone who knows how to build a 2004 nissan frontier 2.4 king cab 2wd rear diff ca46 with 4.625 ratio.
Neat georgia ..
Can't help you there! I'm strictly Jeep focused!
Allen Christopher Lee Larry Brown Edward
Running the pattern was very hard to watch. Not a smart thing to do put in your hand in a meat grinder lol. Someone’s going to get hurt by watching that.
If you're afraid to do that, then leave it to professionals. You have to have resistance to get a good pattern. And I'd hardly call that a meat grinder. My other have controls the drill. If it slips I stop.
Yes... as a mechanical engineer, I say your differential install is excellently done perfectly the way it should be. Great job. Hats off. And your barber does a great job too. 😊
😂🤣
I don’t remember anyone else pressing the bearing on using the cup and having the pinion upside down so you don’t need the perfect size piece of pipe. So you can just cut the old bearing off and slit the inner race and then you have the perfect tool to do the pressing. Another great technique like so many in this video.
Luz na przekładni sprawdza się w 4 miejscach na okręgu,wiadomo to robi maszyna ale warto sprawdzić,tak samo jak się kręci przekładnia na 360⁰. Co do przykręcania zębatki to brawo na 2 razy, ale ja zastosowałbym klej do gwintów (średnia moc, też dałbym klej na podkowach które trzymają przekładnię). Warto też przed każdym montażem takich śrub sprawdzić gwinty na śrubach i gwint wewnętrzny . Nie każdy stosuje olej lub smar(miedź lub grafitowy) pod podkładki lub pod łeb śruby aby moment dociagania był jednakowy na wszystkich śrubach. Przy zwykłych śrubach lub płytkich gwintach należy uważać bo smar zwiększa docisk po przez redukcję tarcia pod podkładką i łbem śruby. Gratulacje nie każdy sprawdza ułożenie wałka atakującego ,A zakres rozkładania się zębów wałka atakującego warto sprawdzić na całym zakresie dużej zębatki. Bo przekładnia z zębami skośnymi jest bardziej wrażliwa na zbyt ciasne spasowanie jak i na za duży luz.. A dlatego myślałem o kleju do gwintów bo przy terenowych autach gdzie jest redukcja,duże koła nacisk na przekładnie jest naprawdę duży. Warto nawet skontrolować przekładnie planetarną i podkładki i sworznie w niej,tak aby opiłkowała z powodu dużych luzów i nie równomiernego nacisku na pojedynczych wypustach zębatki. Pozdrawiam z PL.
I’ve heard it’s not super important to be perfectly centered on the marking compound as long as you are a little shallow because it’s much less likely to crack a tooth compared to too deep. With daily driver type lower horsepower vehicles of course that aren’t a race car. I did a 72 mustang and went from 2.79 to 3.55 and I was a little bit more on the shallow side than you ended up but it has held up fine. That motor is a 302 with about 200 something horsepower pretty much stock but with ported heads, small 4 barrel, and a mild cam.
good info on using new bearings for setups, I learned that lesson after I used a set of old bearings for setups, got everything dialed in with the setups, changed to the new bearings and damn it was off, live and learn
Great video Bro! Don't know where I'd be without it.
That was awesome man. Thanks for the time you put into this!
Thanks! Be sure to check out my other videos on re-gearing 👍
I just got bolts for ring gear and it says to torque 125 - 135 LBB .FT . I did 80 like u got same wrench i made home vice with climbing rope rim and tire 🛞flipped put old axle and the carrier in it tightened with rope it rap around it and lock 80 seems tight . More id rip the rope 😅
Walker Lisa Lee Jason Lewis Mary
Nice video, one of the few that takes you through the whole process.
Quick question: how do you set the carrier bearing preload? I heard you saying: "It should take you a few good whacks" but I'd like to know if there's a more scientific approach. Thanks.
Great question! There is no real way to "measure" carrier preload. When gears are set at the factory, they use a housing spreader and simply drop extra shims in on the side and then release the spreader. If you are installing without a spreader, then the most common way is to add enough shims that it requires you to use a deadblow hammer to set the case all the way. It's a fine line between not enough and too many shims. You shouldn't be able to pull the carrier or by hand. The factory states to not spread the housing more than 15 thousandths of and inch.
On the Dana 23/25 WW2 axles, the TM states to measure the gap with a feeler gauge, fill it up and add 0.008 to it as preload. Maybe a good reference?
I suppose you could but no need really. I get the carrier to where it's snug to push in by hand and then add shims for pre-load. It should take 6-8 whacks with a deadblow hammer to get it in. With experience you can feel when it's correct based on how hard it is to get in as well as how difficult it is to remove.
There are two videos on Utube that I've found that tell how to set the carrier preload. After you set the pinion preload, you put the carrier in and recheck the preload. You make the career tighter (add shim) until you've added 5-8 inch pounds of torque to whatever the pinion preload was. There are variations depending on the differential make and model, but the only one I found in about 50 to 70 hours of Utube instructionals on differentials was an old differential, like 1970s or earlier. It was SIU automotive that I first heard it from. But at Least one other good video said the same thing.
@@TheBFHGarage OTC sells that housing spreader. Any place that sells OTC tools can get you that tool. Unfortunately it’s almost a different tool for every Dana diff.
Im so broke im about to install thick gears on my TJ sport D44 3.73 track lock carrier...
My plan is to use it until the limited slip clutch discs wear out and then by that time I can either weld the side gears to the carrier/mini spool it or fit in a lunchbox locker as it should be a more dedicated weekend rig by then.
Normally Id wait and save up for an ARB or elocker but its my daily right now and unfortunatley the rear pinion nut backed off and smashed the shim pack on a long trip. I luckily caught it early changing the pinion seal and replaced the outer bearing and shims, setting the preload back to 5 inch lbs for the used inner pinion bearing. Ive driven on it awhile with no sounds but im paranoid and just want to take care of it ASAP.
I'm getting ready to install a Detroit trutrac in my dana 44 and was wondering if the carrier shims go under the bearings or on the outside of the bearings? Awesome video by the way.
A little lube goes a long way. Any good mechanic will tell you to lubricate parts before pressing them together.
Hall Mark Jones Brenda Anderson Michael
Best informative step by step video on ARB Ring and Pinion setup on RUclips!!!!
Have to do a dana 80 sunday and I'm way more confident after watching this. Lots of things here that a manual doesn't show. Thanks a ton!
I'll be adding more re-gear videos in the future.
@@TheBFHGarage Subscribed! Got mine all apart and found a giant washer (1/8" thick, 3.5" OD, 2" ID) in pieces and laying in the pocket of oil under the pinion shaft. Trying to make heads or tails of where it came from...it's not a giant factory shim is it? I'd hate to see the amount of pinion shim kits I'd have to buy to restack in place of that monster!
@@rhoadizzle It could be. Take a few pics of your washer pieces and of the inside of your pumpkin and send them to thebfhgarage@gmail.com and I'll take a look when I have time.
As always, excellent video. I’m good with all the regear principles, I was just hoping to see all the details on carrier and pinion shims. As in like what the cause and effect (math) of the shim adj does. Like .001” on the pinion decreases back lash like .003”? I’ve only done 2 regear jobs, a 04 Jeep and a 76 vette. I’ll figure it out though, doing my jk in the next few days after I pull the d44 out. Thanks for taking time to document this😊
I have a JK re-gear video too.
Hey, I'm up in Longmont. I'm getting the things together to do 4.88's on my 16 Rubicon. Just wanted to say thanks for putting the info out there, it's much appreciated. I've always wanted to set up a diff, I'm looking forward to doing it in the fall.
Don't fear the re-gear! Do research a lot though 😁
When regearing a lj dana 30-44 with a 42rle automatic transmission do you have to reprogram the tcm for the new gears? 3.08 to 4.56
No
2 words …. Thank you !
Awesome video, thanks for filming this. Do. you know if there are any differences between the dana 44 rubicon and dana 44 thats in a TJ. I mean besides the locker?
Outside of the pumpkin everything else is the same with the exception that Rubicons all had disc brakes. Inside the pumpkin, the locker is slightly wider than a normal carrier. You can use an aftermarket locker such as an ARB but it'll take a few more shims to get the proper preload. Rubicons also used a thick ring gear.
Hello from Pittsburgh pa.
Got a question? 2015 Jeep wrangler Willy’s spider gears broke, replaced and had to replace both passenger and driver shaft bearings and they blew apart!
So what is the question?
Your attention to detail really appeared to have paid off. Looked fine at end of vid. Was this originally an open carrier? And did you add any friction mod to the gear oil?
When I picked up the axle years ago it had a limited slip. I changed out to an ARB. You do not add a friction modifier to an ARB
Thanks, learned allot.
Aren't there supposed to be seals at the axle tubes in the case? I couldn't tell that they were in there but you sure can see them on my Dana 44.
On a front axle, yes. Rear axle, no. This is a rear axle.
What’s the chance your close to ga lol I need mine done
You're only about 1500 miles away 😂🤣
Woo Hoo, Your videos are awesome I just came back to watch this one one last time as I get ready for final assembly. You took all the mystery out of making this overwhelming job manageable.
Thanks
Nice job
So, I don't see you using a crush sleeve? Are you using a crush sleeve eliminator?
If using the eliminator, you should have showed the shimming to preload?
If using a crush sleeve, you should have shown how to crush it to preload?
I am confused on your pinion setup?
This is a TJ Dana 44. These use shims for pinion preload. If you go to the 38:55 mark, I talk about pinion preload.
@@TheBFHGarage I get it now, after going to the very beginning of the video and looking at the pinion.
|The machined step just past the splines where the cone bearing rides acts as the part that I would call the sleeve or crush sleeve.
Thanks for the reply!
Great video.
First, Great content on jeeps, second with the growing popularity of Jeep WJs for 4x4 builds would you consider re-gear video on the Aluminum Dana 44HD? I re-geared my 44HD from the 3.73s to 4.56 with an ARB and Revolution gears using your RUclips How to re-gear a Dana 44 as a guide, but have gear grinding /winning noise.
I have two serious questions ❓.. is a Dana 44 good for 4.11/5.29 and has anyone ever regeared to 13-43(3.31)?
You can take a TJ Dana 44 to 5:38 but if you have a front Dana 30, you can only go 5:13. The only regears of a lower ratio I have seen have been to replace a broken set.
@@TheBFHGarage sure, I have some jeeps, one has an H.O forged internals and I want anything besides 3.73.. when do they feel right on the thing, but esides going slow, I'd love to push these overland 3.73 axles into a four.0 , at least the front !!
Who else saw the setup bearing move 😆 🤣
There's not a setup bearing in there at all. There is a setup race for the inner pinion bearing though....🤷
I didnt see when you put in the spider gears!!!!
Thats because it's an ARB locker.
Definitely an excellent video! I've done several of my 8.5" Chevy's and one of my 9". My Dana 44's are next on my TJ, and they will be my first 44s. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Appreciate you Sir for your time and talent in making this video! Loved the knowledge AND the tips especially 👍
Wow! nice video man!! Exactly how I do everything....but never film it...
I put my bearings to warm up in engine oil bath very very hot ! or in the fridge for external fittings !!!
Yup definitely out of my skill set and don’t trust myself to do it yet. I’ll just pay you or a shop to do it 😂
Appreciate the video.... 1 question thou... Why did you put pressure on the ring gear with your left hand when running your contact pattern????
Pressure causes firm contact which provides for a far more readable pattern.
@@TheBFHGarage I kinda figured but had to ask.... I'm bout to do my 44 GM front.. and need all the tips I can get
So I have a question for you if you don't mind.... I have pulled my pinion gear and it doesn't have a crush collar it has shims... And I'm not regearing it only putting new bearings races and seals I shouldn't have to change my shims... So my question is when I put my pinion back in I just go ahead and tighten companion flange to specified torque and call it a day??? Thanks in advance
@@2-manfreeman153 exactly
Thank you that was really helpful and informative, you are the real youtuber!
Great video, thanks. One question though, why route the copper line over the ring gear? Seems like a possible issue if that copper line gets snagged...Can you not have the air line bulkhead on the driver side of the ring gear? Sorry total noob with air lockers.
Trying to install it with a short rigid line is very difficult to do without damaging it. Keeping the line long allows it to flex into place. There is plenty of room there.