Designing TDI adaptor and transmission mount for land rover
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- In this video, I figure out how badly the engine hits the fire wall! Plenty of fun to be had.
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Nice to follow on your project.
I've seen you working with Mike @Britannica Restorations Ltd and you sure know your way around a spanner.
Glad to see you driving a V50, mine is a 2011 D2. Great car, saved my life on a crash on 11/2019. The insurance money payed for all the expense of rebuilding it and it runs very well.
Cheers
That's awesome! Definetly some sturdy cars ;)
Superb welding skills, even better design skills, really enjoying watching, thank you. 👍🏻
Glad you're enjoying it!
Terrific stuff Ludy - really enjoying watching your project come together. 👍
Thanks! Glad you like it
Hi Ludi.
I almost lost my left thumb when I drilled holes into an unclamped piece of plate. The drill bit binded and then the plate started swinging around.
Please try and clamp stuff when drilling.
Have an awesome day.
Hahah thats happened to me a couple of times! Definetly always clamp stuff down now
You're Ezequiel and me favorite youtuber!!!!! Besos
That’s awesome!! Love you guys 😎
Желаю удачи в восстановлении Этого прекрасного внедорожника! В Канаде очень красивая природа! Привет из России!!!
Большое спасибо! :D
Nice work, if you can afford it may I suggest a pillar drill it will make your work a little easier. It’s an interesting conversation I haven’t heard of using this engine to often. It’s an outside chance but the gearbox and transfer box used on the 2L mpi Discovery would suit your conversion engine better, the gearing was different.
Do we have those in north america ? And yeah press drills are the way to go ;)
Watching you working is great. As someone told you before, amazing welding skills!!! Nice job! 💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks a lot! :)
your welds could be smaller and have the same strength, the is no need to swirl either; strait line constant rythm. ps keep the gun over end of your welding joint until it cools down, you dont want oxygene making air pockets. Should only take 2 to 3 seconds. Otherwise videos are fantastic keep it up :)
forgot to mention how to get smaller welds without losing the strength. Keep the same speed- no twirling, strait line and lower your wire speed just a bit. Play with it, until you get the size you want.
I'll be trying that on my next parts!
Looking great! I would have suggested some lengths of that box section to replace the sills so there high lift jackable and rock sliders:)
If by sills you mean rocker panels, already done :)
@@ludwigseeley6359 yeah,I figured that out later:) good progress! I tend to work better by myself, experienced the annoyance of someone chucking away rotten panels that were being used as reference for new!
@@jamescunliffe9872 haha yeah gotta be carefull for that 😂
Beauty
Thanks!
Incredible ! You're a beast !!
Hahaha 😂 merci ;)
Very clever,nice work :)
Thanks!
Lovely fab skills 👍
Thanks! :)
I'm impressed! Your project is really coming along now :) Keep up your good work! Looking forward to your next video:)
awesome! Do you rather videos in the 10 minute range or is that too long ? thanks :)
@@ludwigseeley6359 Well, I’m really enjoy watching restoration and fabrication content on RUclips. So I would say somewhere around 15-20 min I prefer. And you can show off more of your welding, fabrication and storytelling skills. I love to see a creative mind at work 👍🏼Then you would need less content to «fill up» in the lack of a better word ☺️.
I was looking for some tips to adjust the CDL linkage on the LT230, and what do I find on Britanica Restorations? 😉
@@christianbentsen3637 Haha yeah I'm MIkes helper once in a while ;)
@@ludwigseeley6359 Sounds good! Is that how you got into Land Rovers?
I think you can get an electric vacuum pump as used on electric cars, save cutting the bulkhead ( fire wall ) nice metal work.
That would be an awesome solution!
👍
You Sir are a very creative engineer. Some really good work and that body is looking really great with panels on.
Just a bit of lateral thinking here about that vacuum pump:
What is the vacuum used for as the RR brake servo only needs inlet manifold vacuum pressure?
Is it the tandem fuel / vacuum pump?
If so can you use an electric fuel pump and use the smaller vacuum only pump?
Can it be fitted on the front of the engine and run off a belt (it will need oil)?
Electric vacuum pumps are available as GM use them in Opel cars so probably in USA as well.
I ask as I would be very iffy about cutting into that firewall as it would have to be a big hole!
Just my two pennys worth...
Totally agree, I would like to relocate that thing! I havent really looked into it yet but it will save some troubles down the road.
Diesel cars don’t have inlet vacuum like petrol engines. The pump is required to create that vacuum for the booster, generally they run off the cam. Cutting the body and boxing it would be easiest solution.
@@vicious0005 Since posting that I did some lookups and realised what you say. As I said I would use an electric GM vacuum pump as they are easily available. There is no way I would be cutting and shutting that bulkhead.
@@1chish the fact you didn’t even know what the pump did leads me to believe you should hold back on the advice. Relocation also means a non factory auxiliary belt size on the front of the engine. He also stated this was a budget build. Not to mention the reliability of a mechanical vac pump would be far greater than an electric pump. If there is room behind the firewall to cut (away from heater core) and fit a recessed box it is the easiest most logical option.
@@vicious0005 The fact you can't read properly leads me to believe you should hold back making comments. I was simply suggesting this guy question what the pump was used for ON THAT ENGINE! I doubt you even knew if it was a dual fuel / vacuum pump. There are vacuum lines used to control waste gates on turbos, air valves and other kit all driven off vacuum pumps. As it happens some diesels can draw enough vacuum off the intake manifold to assist braking. Repeat SOME. So maybe stop being a RUclips smartarse.
And if you had read the comment better you would seen that I suggested a GM pump as it is ELECTRIC which needs no belts. Using an electric fuel pump also needs no timed belt (not an auxiliary as you called it) to drive it. It also does away with the need for an electric fuel shut off valve as needed with mechanical fuel pumps because the pump switches off with the ignition.
Cutting holes in bulkheads is not a good idea and neither is it logical no matter how you sugar coat it.
I never understand why people like you feel the need to get shitty with other people on YT. Need to feel superior?