Great video. I am always looking for ways to use my track saw since I don't have a table saw (nor do I want one, those things give me the willies). For panel glue ups, I saw a recommendation in a video on another channel that goes one step further and makes sure that the edges to be glued to each other will match each other *exactly*. After you do as you did here and get both edges as straight and parallel to each other as possible, put two of the boards that will be glued together in the workbench with any gaps between them as small and evenly distributed as possible, and clamp both boards firmly to your worktop. Then place the track so that the track saw will cut a bit off the edge of both boards everywhere along the joint. Then even if there is any variation when making this cut, that variation will create mirror images in the edges of the two boards. Do that for each joint in the panel and you will have invisible seams. Just remember to label each edge of each board so that when you glue the panel each edge is paired back up with its twin. I just write the number of the joint so that the number is half on one board and half on the other just before I make the cut. Then any mismatch at glue up is obvious. Plus the amount of clamping force to get a good even glue squeeze out will be much lower which greatly reduces the chance that the panel will bow. This is especially critical for thinner panels. Still I would likely use cauls on thin panels to insure that the panel stays flat.
You hit the nail on the head with your comments. I appreciate the feedback as well. Table saws can certainly be intimidating but there are always work arounds if the desire to do exists. A track saw, planer and jointer and you can easily get tight even joints on all of your projects. Thank you for the support!
Not many videos on this subject. I’m definitely interested in seeing the whole process of cutting and jointing. Thanks for the info in this video, its been very helpful!
Im glad it was helpful, I will keep this in mind for future videos. Jointing is one, if not the most critical wood working skill to master and there are so many different ways to accomplish it. Thank you for the support!
This is exactly what I needed - fills last gap for my decision. Very good track saw can be jointer(!), plus rip, cross and core job of panel breakdown. Justifies getting very best affordable for finest cut and best dust extraction in small shop to make lots of cabinets, planters, kitchen islands. Want 50mm (2") cut at 90⁰ and fast blade swap rip & cross. Mafell, Festool, or Makita.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! And I completely agree it is a highly underrated tool especially for smaller shops that don’t have the space or money for a full size table saw or panel saw! 👍
Thanks for sharing! I've got the Makita, and I think it will do fine. Might even be a bit better, as the 165mm blade will give a little extra depth of cut. 👍
Haha yeah it is kind sexy I’ll admit. But honestly I’ve heard great things about the makita and it’s 30-40% cheaper. I only chose the festool because my dust extractor… which THAT thing is worth every penny, if you ever need a good one.
Yes I jointed each one with the track saw and then used a table saw to joint the other edge. You could also joint both sides with the track saw but there’s more potential for the sides to be out of parallel with each other unless you have really good measuring tools to set the track.
Hey! Why did you made 3 ou 4 passes? wouldnt it be more accurate to make only one full pass? Asking because I´ll have to joint some boards tomorrow and I looking for the better way to do it without a jointer. So far the track saw seems to be the best option.
I assume you’re referring to me demonstrating the functionality of the saw when I was cutting into that thick 6/4 red oak board? If so I made a few passes mainly to show the cutting in action. But also it’s a good practice for something that hard and thick to make multiple passes. It’s a powerful saw for sure but anytime you plan to cut something that thick it’s safer to make 2 or 3 passes. Just my two cents!
The main function of a track saw is to cut down sheet material - plywood, MDF etc - usually anywhere from 3-25mm in thickness. This is where the tool excels. The blade is not fully plunged and is usually supported on both sides of the cut. Cutting at maximum depth, with only one side in contact with the stock introduces more vibration and the potential for deflection. In addition, ripping 2 inch oak in one pass would generate an awful lot of heat - even with a ripping blade - and lead to burning the material. Best of luck with your projects!👍
I did some tests with it and it cuts very straight. If you want two exactly parallel edges then you’ll have to take your time measuring and get it set just right for the second cut. But the first one is very straight. What I would do is I would joint one side and then square everything from there. You could also use a table saw. Unfortunately I just have a portable dewalt saw for now and these pieces I was working on would be a bear to keep flush against the fence. One day I’ll get a full size table saw to make things easier and quicker! 🤞
@@scotchinhandmillwork6528 , it does cut very straight so that's a huge plus. I have a cheap track saw and have jointed 2 boards seamlessly by putting the track right on the seam of the two and making one or two cuts. I've heard someone say that they will flip one board end for end after the cut to eliminate any error of the track not being perfectly straight. I haven't tried it. Thanks for the video as I'm trying to learn about the track saw because I think it is a game changer.
You’re totally welcome for the video. It’s nothing fancy just a topic I wanted to cover since the track saw tends to be overlooked as a useful tool! I do appreciate the feedback as always!
They are manufactured pretty high quality. I’d be surprised if they weren’t. But it’s not a bad idea to check it out though! I’d use a long level or something known to be dead straight to test it out.
I was a bit surprised too but remember unless you have the track saw clamped down in place so it can’t move at all, it’s free to glide along that track. And as you plunge the saw into the piece the riving knife can get stuck or impinged...or you can feel the blade wanting to bite into the wood which pulls it forward a bit and if you aren’t holding tightly it will “ jump” forward. But once you are fully pressed down to the saw stop it’s really smooth and easy to push forward. It’s just that initial plunge to depth! Thanks for watching!
You lost me in the safety section as you were committed to your cut with no hearing or eye protection. LOL. Not faulting you for not wearing your PPE but don't include safety tips in your videos if your not going to represent. Again, if you don't want to wear PPE that's on you dude. But don't preach safety unless you are practicing safety.
Great video. I am always looking for ways to use my track saw since I don't have a table saw (nor do I want one, those things give me the willies).
For panel glue ups, I saw a recommendation in a video on another channel that goes one step further and makes sure that the edges to be glued to each other will match each other *exactly*. After you do as you did here and get both edges as straight and parallel to each other as possible, put two of the boards that will be glued together in the workbench with any gaps between them as small and evenly distributed as possible, and clamp both boards firmly to your worktop. Then place the track so that the track saw will cut a bit off the edge of both boards everywhere along the joint. Then even if there is any variation when making this cut, that variation will create mirror images in the edges of the two boards. Do that for each joint in the panel and you will have invisible seams. Just remember to label each edge of each board so that when you glue the panel each edge is paired back up with its twin. I just write the number of the joint so that the number is half on one board and half on the other just before I make the cut. Then any mismatch at glue up is obvious.
Plus the amount of clamping force to get a good even glue squeeze out will be much lower which greatly reduces the chance that the panel will bow. This is especially critical for thinner panels. Still I would likely use cauls on thin panels to insure that the panel stays flat.
You hit the nail on the head with your comments. I appreciate the feedback as well. Table saws can certainly be intimidating but there are always work arounds if the desire to do exists. A track saw, planer and jointer and you can easily get tight even joints on all of your projects. Thank you for the support!
Been doing this one for a long time. Festool is known for outstanding dust collection. One of my main reasons I bought into a CT22 in 2006.
Yeah I’m a believer now myself. Love their tools…wish I could afford more though haha
Not many videos on this subject. I’m definitely interested in seeing the whole process of cutting and jointing. Thanks for the info in this video, its been very helpful!
Im glad it was helpful, I will keep this in mind for future videos. Jointing is one, if not the most critical wood working skill to master and there are so many different ways to accomplish it. Thank you for the support!
This is exactly what I needed - fills last gap for my decision. Very good track saw can be jointer(!), plus rip, cross and core job of panel breakdown. Justifies getting very best affordable for finest cut and best dust extraction in small shop to make lots of cabinets, planters, kitchen islands. Want 50mm (2") cut at 90⁰ and fast blade swap rip & cross. Mafell, Festool, or Makita.
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! And I completely agree it is a highly underrated tool especially for smaller shops that don’t have the space or money for a full size table saw or panel saw! 👍
Nice to the point explanation, like it
Thanks! I try to be straight and to the point.
Is the “Cadillac” of track saws even a compliment these days? When was the last time Cadillac truly made a great car.
Lol good point, I guess I'm aging myself with that comment
Thanks, good job and helpful
You’re welcome!
Thanks for sharing! I've got the Makita, and I think it will do fine. Might even be a bit better, as the 165mm blade will give a little extra depth of cut. 👍
Yeah I’ve heard good things about the Makita. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🍻
I think you mean Ferrari of all track saws.
Haha yeah it is kind sexy I’ll admit. But honestly I’ve heard great things about the makita and it’s 30-40% cheaper. I only chose the festool because my dust extractor… which THAT thing is worth every penny, if you ever need a good one.
was every surface for the glue up jointed with the track saw? Or did you joint one face and take it to the table saw for the other?
Yes I jointed each one with the track saw and then used a table saw to joint the other edge. You could also joint both sides with the track saw but there’s more potential for the sides to be out of parallel with each other unless you have really good measuring tools to set the track.
Hey! Why did you made 3 ou 4 passes? wouldnt it be more accurate to make only one full pass?
Asking because I´ll have to joint some boards tomorrow and I looking for the better way to do it without a jointer. So far the track saw seems to be the best option.
I assume you’re referring to me demonstrating the functionality of the saw when I was cutting into that thick 6/4 red oak board? If so I made a few passes mainly to show the cutting in action. But also it’s a good practice for something that hard and thick to make multiple passes. It’s a powerful saw for sure but anytime you plan to cut something that thick it’s safer to make 2 or 3 passes. Just my two cents!
The main function of a track saw is to cut down sheet material - plywood, MDF etc - usually anywhere from 3-25mm in thickness. This is where the tool excels. The blade is not fully plunged and is usually supported on both sides of the cut. Cutting at maximum depth, with only one side in contact with the stock introduces more vibration and the potential for deflection. In addition, ripping 2 inch oak in one pass would generate an awful lot of heat - even with a ripping blade - and lead to burning the material. Best of luck with your projects!👍
I’ve always wonder how do you know the track is straight or does it matter?
I did some tests with it and it cuts very straight. If you want two exactly parallel edges then you’ll have to take your time measuring and get it set just right for the second cut. But the first one is very straight.
What I would do is I would joint one side and then square everything from there. You could also use a table saw. Unfortunately I just have a portable dewalt saw for now and these pieces I was working on would be a bear to keep flush against the fence. One day I’ll get a full size table saw to make things easier and quicker! 🤞
@@scotchinhandmillwork6528 , it does cut very straight so that's a huge plus. I have a cheap track saw and have jointed 2 boards seamlessly by putting the track right on the seam of the two and making one or two cuts. I've heard someone say that they will flip one board end for end after the cut to eliminate any error of the track not being perfectly straight. I haven't tried it. Thanks for the video as I'm trying to learn about the track saw because I think it is a game changer.
You’re totally welcome for the video. It’s nothing fancy just a topic I wanted to cover since the track saw tends to be overlooked as a useful tool! I do appreciate the feedback as always!
How do you know if you’re track is straight?
They are manufactured pretty high quality. I’d be surprised if they weren’t. But it’s not a bad idea to check it out though! I’d use a long level or something known to be dead straight to test it out.
I don't see any scotch, this channel is a lie. Other than the lies, very informative.
Haha next time I’ll show you what I’m drinking!
i am surprised you got kickbacks even with a riving knife. I guess it's really about double checking your work for enhanced safety.
I was a bit surprised too but remember unless you have the track saw clamped down in place so it can’t move at all, it’s free to glide along that track. And as you plunge the saw into the piece the riving knife can get stuck or impinged...or you can feel the blade wanting to bite into the wood which pulls it forward a bit and if you aren’t holding tightly it will “ jump” forward. But once you are fully pressed down to the saw stop it’s really smooth and easy to push forward. It’s just that initial plunge to depth! Thanks for watching!
I dislike how you didn’t disclose how to line up the track and actually make straight cuts just showed the tool some demonstration of it moving.
You lost me in the safety section as you were committed to your cut with no hearing or eye protection. LOL. Not faulting you for not wearing your PPE but don't include safety tips in your videos if your not going to represent. Again, if you don't want to wear PPE that's on you dude. But don't preach safety unless you are practicing safety.