Tool links and things I talk about in this video: Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa BitsBits router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off James Wright Winding Sticks Video: ruclips.net/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/видео.html
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Man, you just set me free. I’ve started selling some pieces I’ve made as of recently and I have really felt the pressure to spend a ton of money on a jointer just bc every video you see that’s of any quality wood working at all, has a jointer involved. Anyway, long story short, thank you so much. I liked and subscribed. Thank you again
These are great tips. I did break down and purchase a jointer because I found face jointing so painful. The planer sled worked fine, I just found it so time consuming and monotonous walking from one side of the planer to the other over and over and over. For what it's worth, Grizzly's G0814 (or G0813 if you want the economy stand) 6" jointer runs on 120V and has worked great in my shop thus far. I'm just a hobbyist, though. These tips are still useful even if you have a jointer since, as you mention, sometimes you can't run a piece through your particular jointer. MDF makes a great planer sled, by the way. It's going to be dead flat.
I was just trying to figure out ways to do this yesterday, and this morning your video popped up on my feed. Absolutely perfect. Now I just need to find one thing in my shop that actually has a straight edge to use as a guide, and I'm golden. Thanks for this extremely helpful video!
Buy a cheap trimmer or router, set a table, make a hole on it, install the said trimmer upside down from under the table, make a nice straight fence, and boom you got a jointer.
Another great tip is the track saw, which you mentioned, except you don't cut your boards 1 at a time. You clamp the two boards you are going to join together first and run the track saw blade over both joining edges at the saame time. What the blade cuts off the edge of one blade, it cuts the exact same thing of the edge of the other board so when you push them back together to get rid of the now saw blade width gap between them, they are perfectly joined because they were both cut with the exact same blade at the exact same time. Only thing to worry about is how? To clamp both boards and the track saw guide together to get the cut done without cutting whatever you are clamping them together. There are a bunch of ways to do this and plenty of videos on RUclips, but it is a great technique and works really well. Especially for joining really long boards together which are more problematic with more traditional joining methods. I use this method to join 8 foot panels together for entry doors, etc.
Thanks for these tips. They are very helpful. I'm curious about the small elevated workspace you're using. I'd love to see how that was made of learn more about it. I'm always looking for convenient ways to raise my work.
I have always jointed with the router technique you've shown. Figured it out on my own, and have been told it was wrong, but it always worked for me. Glad to now know I'm not alone. Another tip is, if you're working with a super thick board, use the router method to get the line, then follow up with a track saw to finish the cut perfectly. Using a combination of these methods, and a planer, I really see no need, for me, to waste the money and space on a jointer.
Great tips. I’m not sure I’ll ever have the space to justify a decent jointer. My trick for edge jointing long (e.g. 8 - 12’) stock is to use the track saw to establish the reference edge. Much easier to clean (& eventually replace) a good track saw blade than a good router bit (3x more $$).
Great video for those of us with jointer envy! I’ve also used a router and a straight bit to joint two boards intended to be joined together. Have the router bit just kiss each side enough to catch the wider parts and run the router along a straight edge. Great results with that technique too!
From experience, a jointer is the most important and Essential piece of machinery of a wood workshop. Full time carpentry workshop needs one for sure. Save time and thus money.
This was a huge help, thanks! I have just a small space for workshop and would love a jointer/planer, but simply don't have the space, whereas a planer/thicknesser would fit. This helped me realise I can work around the lack of a dedicated jointer.
That was a nice video. I have to make a table. Must be about 8ft long and 2 inches tall. Of course my lumber is a bit bigger. I try with tablesaw and the disk burning the wood. Should I try with router and aluminum slade? Or?
a plywood router sled, or if you happen to be a cnc enthusiasts like me, your cnc router, can 100% replace the planer as well for flattening the face of the board. 1-2 inch face mills (meant for surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router), are GREAT for flattening big hunks of wood. The hand router is a good cheapish way to do that kind of stuff, even if it is a bit slow. A semi decent plunge router, the bits, and the sled are gonna cost less than a planer.
With my router I have a 2" slot cutter bit. I shim my out going table fence by 1/16". Now I have a "jointer" that will handle a 2" face. Cheaper bit that works great for me ...
What I want to say is your straight cut jig is the most sensible I've ever seen. It solves one major problem with the ones that use those top down clamps, and that they're only designed for one board size. Yours can handle a variety of sizes. Very nice work. Subscribed.
That was really good useful information, but how about straightening a long piece. I heard using a long level or a really straight board alongside the table saw fence?
For the planner sled I made mine from scrap Corian then I put a few blobs of 5min drywall mud, layer of cellophane then imbed my board. 5 minutes later mud is hard and ready for the planner.
Interesting you said that about metal studs. I am an outside sales rep for a drywall supply company and thought to use studs because I knew how straight metal is compared to wood.
I use the jointer/router system when gluing up panels, but I "joint" two boards the same time. so they fit a 100% together. Just position them sligtley nearer than the diameter of the Bit, then with one pass joint both. Thanks for the Vid. New subscriber ;-)
For edge of board straightening I've used sleds and the like before. If you have several boards to straighten on the edge, I have made a long straight edge that clamps to my table saw fence, and then run the concave side of the board to the straight-edge and true up the opposite side and it works great. This works fairly well if you have many boards to straighten quickly. The Straight Edge needs to be about double the length of the boards that you're using. Thanks for your video.
I built my first table using some of these methods. While they worked, my results were not 100% and now that I have a jointer, I can say without a doubt it's absolutely worth its weight in gold when it comes to making straight, flat, square pieces of lumber.
Fantastic. Not owning anything other than a circular saw and a compound miter saw, I guess my next purchase is a router for method #1. Thanks so much!!
Great video... i flipped my way from a tiny delta jointer i bought for $50 then sold for $220 after i cleaned it up and bought a larger ridgid for $200... so i made $20 and got a jointer lol.
I guess it depends on how (& where) you source your material (rough) but the jointer is usually actually one of the most important machines in the shop. That’s where it all starts. Process it true from the beginning and it’s a lot less work (&trouble) every step after.
really enjoy watching your videos. Always informative and easy to understand. How would you secure a notched end (like a birds mouth, used at the bottom ends of 2 sets of crossed/scissor legs) to a square piece of wood running horizontal from one set of legs to the other set of legs on the opposite side) Wish I could send a photo.
Jonathan, where have you been all my wood working life?!?! The last thing I need is to subscribe to ANOTHER wood working channel but you reeled me in. This is my first video but i love your style, delivery, & tips.
Would be awesome to get your opinion Katz on the order in which you should set your shop up! Understandable it would be dependent on the work you do but maybe there is a general way to explain it. I am setting up my shop now and had the jointer in the first set of tool. Would love to know what else I do or don’t need.
Question, what is the best type of board to buy/use that if flat to use as the base jig when surfacing planing/face joining board ? I’ve looked at some 3/4 inch plywood but the ends are always curved a bit.
Thank you, I’m just getting started. I’ll look for some of this. Assuming this would be good stuff for any jig. Just bought my first portable table saw and looking at trying to make one of your sleds for that as well for cross cut, etc with one of your stops.
I have a quick question not really related to this video but I will ask anyway. I am new to woodworking and am in the process of building a very simple cross cut sled for my job site table saw. The question is when I am done do I use the cross cut sled with the riving knife that comes with the saw or do I remove it, or does it matter one way or another? Thanks. Chris
I had this very problem this week whilst making a 2' wide by 39" long window sill.. (old stone cottage reno) I was using a 9" standard PINE bull-nosed board in 3 sections to give me the required width (bullnose cut off 2) 🤨 The edges seemed fine, square & straight so I glued her up... the following morning my sill was now a pretzel ! 😂 Sooo... I cut back into 3 strips, used the packing-up/hotglue planer thicknesser trick and when I got 'em flat I used my tracksaw to "joint" the edges. Glue-up #2 went fine & I varnished it before the moisture content changed & it tryed to re-pretzel on me 🙄 I was lucky it was just a sill & finished thickness & width weren't so critical 😏 I've also tried using the router table with a shim on the outfeed side of the fence & cutter edge lined up with that shim... couldn't get it to work for some reason. On shorter boards a shooting-board type of setup and a long plane works too... Also... its worth mentioning to always flatten a face first... before an edge... 😏 Nice vid... Subbed & liked, my friend ! 😎👍☘🍺
If you are relying in finish to keep out moisture to keep your boards from warping, it will not be a long term solution. Moisture will eventually get in and the boards are going to do what they are going to do. If your boards warped thst bad the first time, then you simply need to use more stable wood then you used for that project.
I’ll take some issue with your advice on correcting a bevel when shooting the edge. Holding the plane square to the board? Nevah hoppen. To work down the high edge, stay flat on the work, but let the non cutting outside edge of your tool ride the low side. Use your fingers underneath as a fence. Skew the plane slightly to keep balance. Take a lick or two, then check. If your iron is sharpened with an ever-so-slight convexity, and I mean only a coupla thousandths, then just shift closer to one side or the other as you stroke, same idea.
Hmm you just talked me out of a $1200 purchase man. In all honesty I have stuck with buying bbs panel glue ups. I was thinking of trying to make my own jointer but that requires time and resources that I just don't have. Thanks for the awesome info bud, keep'em coming.
Dude. Buy a cheap hand planer from pawn shop. Put new blades on it. Take two different tables - surfaces One a 1/16" higher than the other Mount the hand planer upside down to the lower table / surface (clamps or screws, festool trac clamps work amazing for this) Boom. Instant joiner less than $100 +4hrs labor......
Subscribed cuz: you explained it in a way that I could understand, you created that magnetic fence that I've yet to see in any other woodworking tip video, and you didn't ask for me to subscribe. Thanks for all those things.
I too like the non begging. As for the 90* plane fence, they go back centuries on the old wooden planes with screws and with the metal planes I've seen both magnets and screws (plane body was drilled and tapped) used. The rare earth magnets are really cool. So versatile. The lipped edge on JKM s version is really clever.. Another project in the future
Dumb question, when you used your router why did you put the board that you were jointing underneath the template? Could you do the same with the guide board on the bottom and a trim bit that has a bearing on it? I’m very new to wood working.
I liked your video very much. I'm interested in the "headboard" looking device you have to check flatness. How does one obtain information on this VERY useful tool? Thanks, jim
So those fancy flush trim bits are over $200, nice. Do you think it is a good idea to use them on the dirty lumber yard edge of the piece? Just me but I would be running that edge through a saw first. I also vote spend the $500 on a jointer.
Shop worked wood professionally for 35 years. Never owned a jointer. Straightened with table saw and router using straight edges. Never could afford floor space for a tool (jointer, bandsaw, shaper) that didn’t earn its keep. That’s what mill works shops are for and I was mostly doing casework. Had a door plant make doors.
@ 2:55, how do you know the board being cut is parallel to the table saw blade? It seems like this could result in a cut that is not parallel with the other side of the board
I think I could make a couple of these work, and I'm going to try the straight edge sled first. How would you suggest face jointing without a planer? Is there an easy way or should I just start saving up? Thanks for the vid, and the good ideas!
Joe Gravelle. Perhaps looking at the European version of a jointer would help, Joe? They have guards that don’t move out of the way, so it encourages you to keep your hands safe. Just a thought.
I love watching your videos. I’m still learning as most are as well and just knowing that you can dial in a piece of wood that’s twisting or cupping without dropping another $300 on a tool that collects dust when not in use; this ups the skill value. For me personally, I would much rather have skill value over a shop full of tools that when not in use are just a lost investment and this also goes towards how to problem solve which if you can’t do that then woodworking will never get to the point that you master a craft. I have a bunch of pallet wood slats that are varying widths and about 1/2” thick but they’re cupped badly and I’m looking for a time efficient way to make them safe to true up on the table saw without kickback and make them fit into one another for a feature wall without annoying gaps. I’m also going to say that me getting into DIY and woodworking has saved my mind from ultimately losing it with the political circus going off the rails. This forces me to unplug that garbage and do what gives me personal satisfaction and a piece of mind in learning for the sake of learning but also developing a skill that I didn’t have before, how to think about wood and make things that come to my mind and empower myself to not rely outside myself. So I’m respectful in that wood has a long-standing tradition of being more towards the spiritual in a way because it’s grounding and when you just stop and listen to that creative inner mind at play, the pieces all come together. Take Care and Be Safe!
So many great tips here. I've always struggled with getting boards flat and was seriously starting to try to figure out how to get a jointer because I've only ever seen people plane things flat or use a jointer
Hey man thanks for the video I got a question. Sooooo me and my dad have a wood shop in our house. Anyways we do have a jointer. I watched some how to videos today on it, and I re squared the whole thing but I ran into a issue. So the height table has 4 different non perpendicular surfaces. Each spot is a bit off. The thing is it’s a solid height wall to rest against. So right near the cutter head it’s nearly perfect on each side. It’s the start and the end that are muffed up. Any idea on this? Also do you have tips on practicing on a jointer? If you could maybe make a video on one if you haven’t that would be seriously excellent. Maybe explain what each part of the jointer does in depth. Then talk about how each side of the table works, and how we can relate that to different pieces of wood. Also thank god the saw was off. But I had it unplugged and was working on squaring the fence. And basically I slide the saw guide out of the way and cut the shiz out my pinky. I was like well at least the blades are sharp. Anyways make thanks for showing this! I been making a crap load of jigs lately. I made this amazing finger joint jig except I made it with such precision when I clamp the top sliding piece it throws off the joins by about .030-.055 which ticked me off. Also do you have any recommendations on a good finger joint blade? Maybe not super expensive all the ones I see our insane amounts of money. Sorry for the long message hope to hear from ya :)
I'm a newbie, so I guess I'm missing something. After router the one edge, why not just run that against the fence on the table saw so you have a straight, 90' edge?
Hey nice video. Question: I've made a whole bunch of planer sleds for face jointing, but can't get rid of this super deep snipe going in and coming out. I have the same planer as you, and it doesn't snipe at all without the sled, but with the sled it has terrible snipe. Any idea what might be causing it? My sled is 3/4 " MDF, about 30 inches long.
hey great video. thanks man. love your content. i was wondering (1) for your jointing techniques, wouldn't that need to happen after faces are planed? cuz if the plane is off, your edge will be off as well? is there a way around that? (2) if you are face planing walnut, its hard to see pencil. can you use chalk? what do you use for walnut or darker woods?
Not only would I love to have your tool collection but even more so your woodworking knowledge!! Your knowledge with woodwork is amazing! ThankQ for sharing your God given talents!! Great video! 👍
I have some drawing charcoal that I think would be great for checking the flatness like the pencil marks. You can cover a really large area really quickly. It's also easy to make your own charcoal.
If you really want to rock the woodworking You Tube world, might I suggest playing classical music (which would be oddly suitable) instead of electric guitar music with woodworking footage. That would really be revolutionary.
A great video as always, Jonathan. I don’t currently have any machines available to me at home, but the magnetic hand plane guide, is a damn fine idea 👌 Thanks.
Chris Morris The mag jig for a hand plane fence is cute, but craftsmen have used a simpler method for ages. Just lay the board flat, pack it up a bit, and work with your plane laying on its side. No waiting.
@@leehaelters6182 Lee, I was thinking the same thing, but it occurred to me that Jonathan does not have a full size workbench. Just that wee bench we see in his videos with the Moxon vice on top. That is going to make it harder to plane a longish board edge against a bench dog, or even use a shooting board. When you see Rob Cosman plane an edge, he starts with it square from the jointer, and does that trick pushing down on the plane with his left thumb to keep the plane flat to the wood, or he'll do what you described, or use a shooting board.
The mag jig for a hand plane fence is cute, but craftsmen have used a simpler method for ages. Just lay the board flat, pack it up a bit, and work with your plane laying on its side.
Tool links and things I talk about in this video:
Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa
BitsBits router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
James Wright Winding Sticks Video: ruclips.net/video/wfVp9D8mg_c/видео.html
Información👍
Hey brother....what type of glue sticks do you use in the hot glue gun? I can't find any that are more, light duty
What are those router bit numbers?
Bits&bits isn't honoring your 15% off code anymore. Too bad, I wanted to do business with them.
@@jonmcdaniel3021 that's definitely not true. I'd email customer support.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
What the fuck are you talking about
Shut your mouth and go away.
Man, you just set me free. I’ve started selling some pieces I’ve made as of recently and I have really felt the pressure to spend a ton of money on a jointer just bc every video you see that’s of any quality wood working at all, has a jointer involved. Anyway, long story short, thank you so much. I liked and subscribed. Thank you again
I love your 90 degree, magnetized hand-plane jig. Thank you.
Sold my jointer, purchased a Festool track saw TS 75for clean edges and use hand scraper to clean edges. I use hand planes to flatten it.
Hand planes may not give perfectly straight, smooth 90° edges for gluing layups.
I don't have the real estate in my shop for a jointer. This was the best video I've found on how to tackle that problem. Thanks so much!
These are great tips. I did break down and purchase a jointer because I found face jointing so painful. The planer sled worked fine, I just found it so time consuming and monotonous walking from one side of the planer to the other over and over and over. For what it's worth, Grizzly's G0814 (or G0813 if you want the economy stand) 6" jointer runs on 120V and has worked great in my shop thus far. I'm just a hobbyist, though. These tips are still useful even if you have a jointer since, as you mention, sometimes you can't run a piece through your particular jointer. MDF makes a great planer sled, by the way. It's going to be dead flat.
I was just trying to figure out ways to do this yesterday, and this morning your video popped up on my feed. Absolutely perfect. Now I just need to find one thing in my shop that actually has a straight edge to use as a guide, and I'm golden. Thanks for this extremely helpful video!
Same. I opted to just break down and buy a new level to use for that purpose.
You just saved me 725 bucks. I am planning out my shop and that was one of the tools on my list. Thanks for the video.
Buy a cheap trimmer or router, set a table, make a hole on it, install the said trimmer upside down from under the table, make a nice straight fence, and boom you got a jointer.
Another great tip is the track saw, which you mentioned, except you don't cut your boards 1 at a time. You clamp the two boards you are going to join together first and run the track saw blade over both joining edges at the saame time. What the blade cuts off the edge of one blade, it cuts the exact same thing of the edge of the other board so when you push them back together to get rid of the now saw blade width gap between them, they are perfectly joined because they were both cut with the exact same blade at the exact same time. Only thing to worry about is how? To clamp both boards and the track saw guide together to get the cut done without cutting whatever you are clamping them together. There are a bunch of ways to do this and plenty of videos on RUclips, but it is a great technique and works really well. Especially for joining really long boards together which are more problematic with more traditional joining methods. I use this method to join 8 foot panels together for entry doors, etc.
Thanks for these tips. They are very helpful. I'm curious about the small elevated workspace you're using. I'd love to see how that was made of learn more about it. I'm always looking for convenient ways to raise my work.
I have always jointed with the router technique you've shown. Figured it out on my own, and have been told it was wrong, but it always worked for me. Glad to now know I'm not alone.
Another tip is, if you're working with a super thick board, use the router method to get the line, then follow up with a track saw to finish the cut perfectly. Using a combination of these methods, and a planer, I really see no need, for me, to waste the money and space on a jointer.
Great tips. I’m not sure I’ll ever have the space to justify a decent jointer. My trick for edge jointing long (e.g. 8 - 12’) stock is to use the track saw to establish the reference edge. Much easier to clean (& eventually replace) a good track saw blade than a good router bit (3x more $$).
Great video for those of us with jointer envy! I’ve also used a router and a straight bit to joint two boards intended to be joined together. Have the router bit just kiss each side enough to catch the wider parts and run the router along a straight edge. Great results with that technique too!
I don’t know why I didn’t think of a flush trim bit for making a straight edge. What a great idea, thanks a lot!
I'm glad they exist, did not know about them.
A jointer and a flush trim bit work in the same principle. Unless it's more powerful.
Great help. Had to rewatch. I have a jointer but I bought a used one It’s a 6” Delta. But I struggle with longer boards. Even with a roller stand.
Great info. So how do you fix a wonky board that has neither flat edge nor flat face without a jointer AND a planer?
From experience, a jointer is the most important and Essential piece of machinery of a wood workshop. Full time carpentry workshop needs one for sure. Save time and thus money.
This was a huge help, thanks! I have just a small space for workshop and would love a jointer/planer, but simply don't have the space, whereas a planer/thicknesser would fit. This helped me realise I can work around the lack of a dedicated jointer.
That was a nice video. I have to make a table. Must be about 8ft long and 2 inches tall. Of course my lumber is a bit bigger. I try with tablesaw and the disk burning the wood. Should I try with router and aluminum slade? Or?
a plywood router sled, or if you happen to be a cnc enthusiasts like me, your cnc router, can 100% replace the planer as well for flattening the face of the board. 1-2 inch face mills (meant for surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router), are GREAT for flattening big hunks of wood. The hand router is a good cheapish way to do that kind of stuff, even if it is a bit slow. A semi decent plunge router, the bits, and the sled are gonna cost less than a planer.
With my router I have a 2" slot cutter bit. I shim my out going table fence by 1/16". Now I have a "jointer" that will handle a 2" face. Cheaper bit that works great for me ...
Steel studs for framing are normally bowed. If you really want something long and straight ask a glazier for a cut off of aluminum storefront framing.
What I want to say is your straight cut jig is the most sensible I've ever seen. It solves one major problem with the ones that use those top down clamps, and that they're only designed for one board size. Yours can handle a variety of sizes.
Very nice work. Subscribed.
That was really good useful information, but how about straightening a long piece. I heard using a long level or a really straight board alongside the table saw fence?
For the planner sled I made mine from scrap Corian then I put a few blobs of 5min drywall mud, layer of cellophane then imbed my board. 5 minutes later mud is hard and ready for the planner.
Woah! I might have to do a video on that! Good idea!
I FOUND THE COMMENT THAT SPAWNED IT ALL
Its "hot mud" not "drywall mud"
Two different things
Drywall mud does NOT dry in 5min
Hot mud DOES though!
Easy way to confuse someone else trying to copy you
Hey, do u have a video on how to make that No7 planer guide with the magnets?
Interesting you said that about metal studs. I am an outside sales rep for a drywall supply company and thought to use studs because I knew how straight metal is compared to wood.
I use the jointer/router system when gluing up panels, but I "joint" two boards the same time. so they fit a 100% together. Just position them sligtley nearer than the diameter of the Bit, then with one pass joint both. Thanks for the Vid. New subscriber ;-)
For edge of board straightening I've used sleds and the like before. If you have several boards to straighten on the edge, I have made a long straight edge that clamps to my table saw fence, and then run the concave side of the board to the straight-edge and true up the opposite side and it works great. This works fairly well if you have many boards to straighten quickly. The Straight Edge needs to be about double the length of the boards that you're using. Thanks for your video.
This is how I do REALLY long boards. I use an 8 foot level as the fence.
That hand plane jig is genious!
Useful! Thanks! For that pencil demo, use the thicker carpenter pencil for camera pick up
I built my first table using some of these methods. While they worked, my results were not 100% and now that I have a jointer, I can say without a doubt it's absolutely worth its weight in gold when it comes to making straight, flat, square pieces of lumber.
Fantastic. Not owning anything other than a circular saw and a compound miter saw, I guess my next purchase is a router for method #1. Thanks so much!!
Hey Katz, question. What are good ways to plane wide boards when you don't have a planer? Video to recommend?
Great video... i flipped my way from a tiny delta jointer i bought for $50 then sold for $220 after i cleaned it up and bought a larger ridgid for $200... so i made $20 and got a jointer lol.
I guess it depends on how (& where) you source your material (rough) but the jointer is usually actually one of the most important machines in the shop.
That’s where it all starts.
Process it true from the beginning and it’s a lot less work (&trouble) every step after.
Definitely taking the jointer off the to buy tool list. Thanks
Ross I am about to mill up 20 metres of board length, so 40 metres of edges. I'd hate to be having to do this without a jointer.
As a spanish native speaker, I must say that your pronunciation of the name "Antonio" es very good, asgood as your videos!
really enjoy watching your videos. Always informative and easy to understand.
How would you secure a notched end (like a birds mouth, used at the bottom ends of 2 sets of crossed/scissor legs) to a square piece of wood running horizontal from one set of legs to the other set of legs on the opposite side) Wish I could send a photo.
Making a table and thank god for your video. So excited to get started!!!
Jonathan, where have you been all my wood working life?!?! The last thing I need is to subscribe to ANOTHER wood working channel but you reeled me in. This is my first video but i love your style, delivery,
& tips.
hi I want to say you are awesome greetings from Poland
What is the best hand tool way of jointing long 2metre, 5omm,thick boards?
Would be awesome to get your opinion Katz on the order in which you should set your shop up! Understandable it would be dependent on the work you do but maybe there is a general way to explain it.
I am setting up my shop now and had the jointer in the first set of tool. Would love to know what else I do or don’t need.
Question, what is the best type of board to buy/use that if flat to use as the base jig when surfacing planing/face joining board ? I’ve looked at some 3/4 inch plywood but the ends are always curved a bit.
Baltic birch
Thank you, I’m just getting started. I’ll look for some of this. Assuming this would be good stuff for any jig. Just bought my first portable table saw and looking at trying to make one of your sleds for that as well for cross cut, etc with one of your stops.
Very succinct explanations on the various ways for preparing boards for edge gluing without the use of a jointer. Thank you very much!
I love the magnetic jig for your hand plane. Great idea
I have a quick question not really related to this video but I will ask anyway. I am new to woodworking and am in the process of building a very simple cross cut sled for my job site table saw. The question is when I am done do I use the cross cut sled with the riving knife that comes with the saw or do I remove it, or does it matter one way or another?
Thanks.
Chris
Leave it in
@@katzmosestools Thanks.
I had this very problem this week whilst making a 2' wide by 39" long window sill.. (old stone cottage reno) I was using a 9" standard PINE bull-nosed board in 3 sections to give me the required width (bullnose cut off 2) 🤨
The edges seemed fine, square & straight so I glued her up... the following morning my sill was now a pretzel ! 😂
Sooo... I cut back into 3 strips, used the packing-up/hotglue planer thicknesser trick and when I got 'em flat I used my tracksaw to "joint" the edges.
Glue-up #2 went fine & I varnished it before the moisture content changed & it tryed to re-pretzel on me 🙄
I was lucky it was just a sill & finished thickness & width weren't so critical 😏
I've also tried using the router table with a shim on the outfeed side of the fence & cutter edge lined up with that shim... couldn't get it to work for some reason.
On shorter boards a shooting-board type of setup and a long plane works too...
Also... its worth mentioning to always flatten a face first... before an edge... 😏
Nice vid...
Subbed & liked, my friend !
😎👍☘🍺
If you are relying in finish to keep out moisture to keep your boards from warping, it will not be a long term solution. Moisture will eventually get in and the boards are going to do what they are going to do. If your boards warped thst bad the first time, then you simply need to use more stable wood then you used for that project.
I’ve come to the conclusion that a nice router set and table saw with nice accessories is all I will need for a while.
I’ll take some issue with your advice on correcting a bevel when shooting the edge. Holding the plane square to the board? Nevah hoppen. To work down the high edge, stay flat on the work, but let the non cutting outside edge of your tool ride the low side. Use your fingers underneath as a fence. Skew the plane slightly to keep balance. Take a lick or two, then check. If your iron is sharpened with an ever-so-slight convexity, and I mean only a coupla thousandths, then just shift closer to one side or the other as you stroke, same idea.
I’m glad my wife didn’t watch your video before I bought my jointer. 😉😁 Great job Jonathan.
Hmm you just talked me out of a $1200 purchase man. In all honesty I have stuck with buying bbs panel glue ups. I was thinking of trying to make my own jointer but that requires time and resources that I just don't have. Thanks for the awesome info bud, keep'em coming.
Dude. Buy a cheap hand planer from pawn shop. Put new blades on it.
Take two different tables - surfaces
One a 1/16" higher than the other
Mount the hand planer upside down to the lower table / surface (clamps or screws, festool trac clamps work amazing for this)
Boom. Instant joiner less than $100 +4hrs labor......
Subscribed cuz: you explained it in a way that I could understand, you created that magnetic fence that I've yet to see in any other woodworking tip video, and you didn't ask for me to subscribe. Thanks for all those things.
That is pretty unique, huh? I feel like I might actually be able to make that, too. Now to buy a plane...
I too like the non begging. As for the 90* plane fence, they go back centuries on the old wooden planes with screws and with the metal planes I've seen both magnets and screws (plane body was drilled and tapped) used. The rare earth magnets are really cool. So versatile. The lipped edge on JKM s version is really clever.. Another project in the future
So just a thought couldn't you just use that table Saw jig to make the first straight edge go off of that edge on the rip guide
Jonathan, do you have any videos for people that don't have a jointer or planer?
Router for surface planing
The hand plane jig has saved me so many hours of time wow
Dumb question, when you used your router why did you put the board that you were jointing underneath the template? Could you do the same with the guide board on the bottom and a trim bit that has a bearing on it? I’m very new to wood working.
I liked your video very much. I'm interested in the "headboard" looking device you have to check flatness. How does one obtain information on this VERY useful tool? Thanks, jim
So those fancy flush trim bits are over $200, nice. Do you think it is a good idea to use them on the dirty lumber yard edge of the piece? Just me but I would be running that edge through a saw first. I also vote spend the $500 on a jointer.
Great video bro! How would you edge joint a 2x6 or 8 that's 8ft long without a joiner?
Shop worked wood professionally for 35 years. Never owned a jointer. Straightened with table saw and router using straight edges. Never could afford floor space for a tool (jointer, bandsaw, shaper) that didn’t earn its keep. That’s what mill works shops are for and I was mostly doing casework. Had a door plant make doors.
Whelp. I was given a shopsmith and one of the add ons was the jointer. Still don’t have a planer though...
videos like these do really help a lot for beginners like me. Thanks a ton!
@ 2:55, how do you know the board being cut is parallel to the table saw blade? It seems like this could result in a cut that is not parallel with the other side of the board
Still trying to find the "Moxon Vise router template below"...
tried a search on your RUclips page too, nuttin...
I have two moxon vise videos. Its linked there. Cheers
thx for this - no room or cash for a jointer. ordered the bits
I think I could make a couple of these work, and I'm going to try the straight edge sled first. How would you suggest face jointing without a planer? Is there an easy way or should I just start saving up? Thanks for the vid, and the good ideas!
This helps me with the tools that I’ve already have and limited space for large stationary shop tools.
Jason Babila
I’m terrified of the jointer and would much rather utilIze a sled like this or even a router sled
Joe Gravelle. Perhaps looking at the European version of a jointer would help, Joe? They have guards that don’t move out of the way, so it encourages you to keep your hands safe. Just a thought.
You just saved me a bunch of money, great video man appreciate it.
Excellent information simply explained easily understood. Thanks for posting
I love watching your videos. I’m still learning as most are as well and just knowing that you can dial in a piece of wood that’s twisting or cupping without dropping another $300 on a tool that collects dust when not in use; this ups the skill value. For me personally, I would much rather have skill value over a shop full of tools that when not in use are just a lost investment and this also goes towards how to problem solve which if you can’t do that then woodworking will never get to the point that you master a craft. I have a bunch of pallet wood slats that are varying widths and about 1/2” thick but they’re cupped badly and I’m looking for a time efficient way to make them safe to true up on the table saw without kickback and make them fit into one another for a feature wall without annoying gaps.
I’m also going to say that me getting into DIY and woodworking has saved my mind from ultimately losing it with the political circus going off the rails. This forces me to unplug that garbage and do what gives me personal satisfaction and a piece of mind in learning for the sake of learning but also developing a skill that I didn’t have before, how to think about wood and make things that come to my mind and empower myself to not rely outside myself. So I’m respectful in that wood has a long-standing tradition of being more towards the spiritual in a way because it’s grounding and when you just stop and listen to that creative inner mind at play, the pieces all come together.
Take Care and Be Safe!
Using that Dewalt Planer, how did you negate the end snipe?
So many great tips here. I've always struggled with getting boards flat and was seriously starting to try to figure out how to get a jointer because I've only ever seen people plane things flat or use a jointer
Hey man thanks for the video I got a question. Sooooo me and my dad have a wood shop in our house. Anyways we do have a jointer. I watched some how to videos today on it, and I re squared the whole thing but I ran into a issue. So the height table has 4 different non perpendicular surfaces. Each spot is a bit off. The thing is it’s a solid height wall to rest against. So right near the cutter head it’s nearly perfect on each side. It’s the start and the end that are muffed up. Any idea on this? Also do you have tips on practicing on a jointer? If you could maybe make a video on one if you haven’t that would be seriously excellent. Maybe explain what each part of the jointer does in depth. Then talk about how each side of the table works, and how we can relate that to different pieces of wood. Also thank god the saw was off. But I had it unplugged and was working on squaring the fence. And basically I slide the saw guide out of the way and cut the shiz out my pinky. I was like well at least the blades are sharp.
Anyways make thanks for showing this!
I been making a crap load of jigs lately. I made this amazing finger joint jig except I made it with such precision when I clamp the top sliding piece it throws off the joins by about .030-.055 which ticked me off.
Also do you have any recommendations on a good finger joint blade? Maybe not super expensive all the ones I see our insane amounts of money. Sorry for the long message hope to hear from ya :)
I liked your planer tip on the warped board.
I'm a newbie, so I guess I'm missing something. After router the one edge, why not just run that against the fence on the table saw so you have a straight, 90' edge?
The router jig is ingenious! i cant believe i only discovered this know thanks
Thanks for more understandable use for winding sticks
Hey nice video. Question: I've made a whole bunch of planer sleds for face jointing, but can't get rid of this super deep snipe going in and coming out. I have the same planer as you, and it doesn't snipe at all without the sled, but with the sled it has terrible snipe. Any idea what might be causing it? My sled is 3/4 " MDF, about 30 inches long.
Awesome video production value, nice music on the slow motion scenes! Super
Excellent, thank you. I have a nice router but no straight template bit yet.
Great Vid keep up the good work. Just a thought.. Will the Sled you use in the first method cause any issues as it looks a little cupped to me.
hey great video. thanks man. love your content. i was wondering (1) for your jointing techniques, wouldn't that need to happen after faces are planed? cuz if the plane is off, your edge will be off as well? is there a way around that? (2) if you are face planing walnut, its hard to see pencil. can you use chalk? what do you use for walnut or darker woods?
Every time I’m about to buy a 6in porter cable bench top jointer I come watch this and let JKM talk me down
Not only would I love to have your tool collection but even more so your woodworking knowledge!!
Your knowledge with woodwork is amazing! ThankQ for sharing your God given talents!! Great video! 👍
I have some drawing charcoal that I think would be great for checking the flatness like the pencil marks. You can cover a really large area really quickly. It's also easy to make your own charcoal.
How do you use your straight line rip jig for a 8’ board.
Thank you!! I’ve got a wonky slab of walnut that really needs this treatment.
Haven’t tried the face jointing sled one. I typically just skip plane my boards.
StudioJLT , twisted stock in, twisted stock out.
If you really want to rock the woodworking You Tube world, might I suggest playing classical music (which would be oddly suitable) instead of electric guitar music with woodworking footage. That would really be revolutionary.
Since you used the flush trim bit on one edge why couldn’t you just run that straight edge on your table saw fence? I’m Newer to wood working!!!
Thanks, handy as I was in a friends shop yesterday, using his jointer and thicknesser which I don't possess!
As a newbee woodworker, this is great to know. Thanks!
A great video as always, Jonathan. I don’t currently have any machines available to me at home, but the magnetic hand plane guide, is a damn fine idea 👌 Thanks.
Chris Morris The mag jig for a hand plane fence is cute, but craftsmen have used a simpler method for ages. Just lay the board flat, pack it up a bit, and work with your plane laying on its side. No waiting.
@@leehaelters6182 Lee, I was thinking the same thing, but it occurred to me that Jonathan does not have a full size workbench. Just that wee bench we see in his videos with the Moxon vice on top. That is going to make it harder to plane a longish board edge against a bench dog, or even use a shooting board. When you see Rob Cosman plane an edge, he starts with it square from the jointer, and does that trick pushing down on the plane with his left thumb to keep the plane flat to the wood, or he'll do what you described, or use a shooting board.
As always, great tips. I don't expect to have a joiner any time soon, so I'll need these tips.
The mag jig for a hand plane fence is cute, but craftsmen have used a simpler method for ages. Just lay the board flat, pack it up a bit, and work with your plane laying on its side.
just listening to the audio i feel like im getting woodworking tips from Guy Fieri. Good Stuff!