*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store* lddy.no/stih *Dewalt 1.25HP DWP611* - amzn.to/34bAxLF *Dewalt 2.25HP With Plunge Base Kit* amzn.to/3gFF8g0 BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off (My favorite bit is #*Astra Coated* UDC9112) *Want to learn more about Routers? Check out this playlist -* ruclips.net/p/PLWpKyJXgeoFGOQtgnJ1r1ttKhVzYaomXT *Router Bushings* lddy.no/z7ev *My Favorite double Sided Tape* lddy.no/g2ht
As a shop teacher, I teach my students, "You read left to right, you should router left to right" when the router is in front of the board with very few exceptions! I teach them to move fast and nibble across the grain and go slower routing with the grain, and other router techniques. Have never had an accident teaching 7th and 8th graders!
Teaching 7th and 8th graders how to use power tools is insanity and you deserve statues built in honor of what you do. Maybe an award from the president.
As an Electrical Engineer for more than three decades, I always used the right hand trick for router applications too - it was borrowed from my Electromag classes. Despite I always used it I never considerred it was important also for non Electrical Engineers. Congrats to bring that to all.
Loving your right hand rule, because being unsure of the correct direction is always a thing unless it's on the table, from the right. For handheld/plunge routing, I made my own mnemonic: CIAO. Clockwise Inside, Anticlockwise Outside. Get it wrong and you can say "ciao" to your work. I hope this helps someone.
I'm used to larger, corded routers ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
Honestly, I'm not cheap; just thrifty. My Scot heritage comes through at every opportunity. For 35 years of occasional router use I kept telling myself that high speed steel was good enough for what I did with a router. Wood got more expensive and I wanted better quality outcomes. Thanks to you and others like you, my standards are better these days and I don't dare risk $7.00 or more per board foot lumber on anything less than Freud or Whiteside bits and the Bits&Bits coating ROCK. I watch my expenses by not trashing nice wood. Good tools are less expensive than damaged raw materials in the long run.
I bought my first circular saw, impact drill and drill driver. Next is my router. I'm a newbie to tools and wood work. This is informative. You've earned my subscription.
Nice to see recommendations according to personal experience rather than paid sponsors. We novices need help choosing our tools to avoid either buying too much or too little. Like most tools, routers are fun to use but a wrong choice can make their use either a pain or results not what we wanted. Your video is very informative and gave more info in it's short time than most give in days of videos. Also, even though you have a nice setup, it is not so overwhelming (big) that I turn it off out of frustration because I only have (most have less) a single garage size area. Most tubers don't realize their pole barn size shop is a turnoff, not a turn on. Thanks for keeping it real and informative and not a "look at what I got" video!.
My first table saw was Craftsman contractor saw. I purchased a cast iron extension wing for it which came with a router plate and fence. I loved it. Much better than the small working surface available on most router tables. Years later I graduated to a cabinet saw with the right wing incorporating a router mount. With my offcut extension table, I have a router table with sixteen square feet of work area. Most, if not all, of the cuts in this video can be done better and more safely using a table, rather than a handheld router. I know, like me at first, a lot of folks have a limited budget but, it is something to keep in mind for the future. I will not have a saw without this provision.
Good video. Router table = right to left Router= left to right One thing I might add is use dust collection whenever possible. I believe it is Oneida who makes a hood to hook up to a vacuum. It will also help cool the bit. Just make sure you use a very flexible hose and make sure you can control the router safely with the vac hose connected. Ron
I just broke a bit and it flew away it was so scary. Went back home, and got this video as a recommendation, I just learned about the 1/4 inch depth passes, this would have probably saved me the scare!
Just bought the corded Mikita as it was better for my budget. I’ve been searching for decent videos of how to use this tool. The content within this presentation in my opinion was excellent. It gave me a great idea where to start. I have to cut some rebates and couldn’t get my head round how to go about it. Well done and thank you.
I just want to say that you solved a problem I have. I am making a sheet pan drawer with 1/4" dividers in it. So, I need to route groves into the drawer. But, I did not know how I was going to get an accurate cut for the center groves. In comes the jig you showed how to make. Thank you. Also, I am going to be adding the pice to my wouter guide as well because I ran into that issue, too. Thank you for your great advice! I love your content! And look forward to buying one of your aprons as soon as I can afford the extra expense!
Very helpful. I don't know why the router has been so intimidating but I finally picked one up last year. I've only used it a couple of times but I plan to remedy that.
Great info, Jonathan~! I'm working on a display case project that requires some 1/4" stopped dado's on the inside faces and I was brainstorming the best way to accomplish it. Your dado/groove jig tip is just what I was looking for, so perfect timing. Thanks so much for this video~!
Saving this video as it contains a wealth of great info! I absolutely LOVE the right hand thumb rule. That is going to save so much time trying to remember which way is the bit spinning and which way do I feed the board!
Always a great video to watch over and over again and again. I have quite a collection of routers and 1/2” and 1/4” bits. So I enjoy watching to gain more knowledge and techniques to improve my skills.
Thank you, I brought a plunge router about 4 weeks ago and it's just been sitting there because I had no idea how to use it properly and safely. I'm pretty savvy but been super intimidated to use it. Been sanding round overs and the like by hand like a Muppet. This video really helped cheers.
Haven't watched all your videos (yet) but already I can tell that you are the best teacher for newbies like myself, great tips and amazing explanation skills, overall high quality, friendly, no-nonsense knowledge transfer, as well as top notch video production...THANKS
I disagree. I think the most important thing to do in almost every case is to stroke the hog. " you are either living in post nut clarity or in pre nut delusional". Don't love your life in delusion. One love
Great video as always, and amen on spending more for better bits. I learned my lesson today routing a juice groove. I had been using a cheapo core box bit from an Amazon kit and was getting burning every time that then had to be painstakingly sanded off. On a whim a few days ago, I figured I'd try and buy a Whiteside bit instead. I did a large board today without a single burn mark through maple, walnut, cherry, and mahogany. Cheers!
Yes, Amazon has probably much more garbage than good items. They are inundated with Chinese junk. That is not saying that they don't have SOME good products, but the majority is just junk! YMMV.
An extension of the right hand tip (not for when the router is in a table): if you extend your right thumb and index finger (like a gun, pew pew) and place your thumb against the edge to be routed your finger will be pointing in the correct direction of router movement.
the dewalt plunge router has integrated dust control. take the cap off the top of the rubber accordion gizmo and plug in your DC hose. Dust and shreddings are generated in HUGE amounts from routing, so you should try and get dust control under control. Many routers have DC attachments you can buy, shrouds, etc. several edge guides you showed have DC capabilities as well.
Great video and information. In another video, unfortunately forget which channel, they mentioned another benefit to bushings. Template bits have bearings at the end or base of the bit, which requires full bit extension or full depth cuts of the work piece. With bushings being independent of the bit, you can make template cuts at any depth.
The depth stop can be used as a precise depth measure too..........zero out the bit on the work like was shown here, place the work piece you want to insert into the routed area on top of the "turret" stop and place the depth plunger on top of the piece and lock it down....now you have the precise depth for the part you want to fit :)
Two hours ago, I didn't know what this tool was called, I just googled what I wanted to do 😂 It's super helpful with videos like these, even though much of the names of things still don't mean anything to me. But I'm starting to see how I can use this tool for so many other things apart from the project I'm planning that had me googling it. Like that "flush bit" thing would've been really handy last year when I renovated and resized an old door to fit in a different frame, and my crap plunge saw made sucky cuts. Of course, having a better plunge saw in the first place would've helped, too, but I can see how this tool can really help get the details perfect with little effort👌
great advice, i got my "blem" stop the other day, i exected something that had a very noticeable blem, What i got was a slall mrk on the front and it is even viewable when in use. thanks much.
The fixed base routers are comparatively new to the non trade purchaser in UK, so most people are more familiar with the plunging router, and understand the uses of the turret depth stop. I highly recommend the cheap “Trend” sets of bits as starter kits.
Oh boy..so helpful and informative. I am new woodworker and purchase a plunge router by porter cable 800 series and I have been intimidated and just wound not use the router out of fear and ignorance. after watching your video I am ready to get back at it. ?? Can I have link to purchase the template guide that I discussed near the end of the video.
I like the right hand rule, but modify it a little. I point my thumb up, index finger forward, and curl around the middle, ring and pinky on right hand. (Like when a kid makes a gun using their hand). The thumb points up for table, down for router, the middle, ring and pinky indicate the direction the bit spins, and the index points in the direction the router should be pushed.
Newborn DIY'er here. These 101 type vids are priceless, and I'll be seeing what I can get from your links and store to support you (when I know what I actually need).
Fantastic tips, Jonathan. These will definitely help when making a router purchase this year. As a side note, I’ve just received my 6:1 ratio dovetail guide today. It came a lot faster than I thought too; less than two weeks from California to the UK. It’s to go with my 8:1 dovetail guide, my alignment board and my apron, which is fantastic by the way and superb value for money. Thanks so much and keep up the great work 👍
Great video, your concept on the direction of the bit, never looked at it that way about the right hand grip. I was taught, look at the direction of the bit itself, you want it to always pull the material "into" the router or fence if a router table. Now, I do have to disagree about the auxiliary fence, reason is, chips have to go somewhere and they don't all drop straight down. Perfect example of this is, do a dado with a handheld then do one on a router table, see which has a better chip clearing. I prefer to have that opening for this reason only. The fence on your router table isn't solid like a TS fence is, again, chips have to go somewhere plus, it allows airflow to help keep the bit cool. Overheat a bit and they'll snap on you, can cause a very serious injury, 30k rpms and a small projectile... not fun. One thing I was taught about setting depth, use brass bars in aid to set your depth and small bites. I've seen many bits break because some people believe, it will just push through, they don't, they'll break. Great video, cheers :)
Might be better for a beginner to get better but not best quality router bits. Cheap bit could make it a less satisfying experience. Still, cheap bits are pretty good but don't last as long before they get dull. Good video. A few things I didn't already know. I always enjoy learning something new.
Keep an eye out for discounts on bits too, sometimes there is a product lineup change or other reason for the store to be clearing carbide sets at big discounts. Just recently got a $200 set 50% off - quality coated carbide, not garbage. Good luck out there friends!
Nice video, thanks. The only thing I don't like about only using the first 1/4" of the bit is you wear that part out and dull it. To help with that when I use the same bit with a bushing to trim an edge I stick the bit slightly over a 1/4" out the other side and use the part of the bit that is still like new.
I could never remember which way to run my router until I learned a little trick from Jason Hibbs of Bourbon Moth Woodworking. Make an "L" with the thumb and index fingers of your right hand (finger gun or "loser" hand sign). Put the tip of your thumb against the surface you want to use your router on with the palm of your hand facing down. Your index finger will always point in the direction you should run your router. You can use the same "trick" for your router table also. You just push the work piece in the direction your index finger is pointing.
I recommend multiple routers... I have a.... Triton TRA001 beast for my table DeWalt 624 general use plunger Cheapo plunger permanantly set up for my dovetail jig And a cheap little trim router... The first 2 were spendy (& well worth it) but the other 2 were not... Also, when using the table, featherboards , horizontal & vertical , are your friend... I made my own from ABS as I've also got a fully equipped machining setup, mills & lathes etc... 😎👍☘🍺
When he said he was going to kiss us goodnight, I didn't realize he meant it literally. About 5 minutes ago I heard a knock on the door. I opened it, and there he was. Our eyes met. He stepped forward. I stepped back half a step, unsure of what to do or how to interpret what was happening. The look in his eyes was reassuring. There was nothing sensual about it. He was just a man fulfilling an innocent goodnight promise to a loyal, but very confused viewer. I took a tentative step forward. We embraced briefly. Our beards locked like velcro. We shared a nervous laugh as we each freed our faces from the grip of the other. I managed few halting words. "Um...uh...goodnight, Jon...I guess." More a question than a statement. He turned and walked off into the night without a word. It was the weirdest night in the shop I ever had.
5:00 Also … I’ve always gone by the rule that you use the cheapest/easiest to sharpen cutter first. So, cut first with the tablesaw or bandsaw, then the router.
Dear Jonathan, thank you very much for your very informing videos. I am enjoying them quiet a lot. Could you or your community answer me one simple question: If i am edging my cutting board i am going clockwise, correct ? If i cut some juice grooves, i am going counter clockwise, correct? I just messed up a board and i dont wanne do the same mistake twice (the boards before that were fine, just luck ? ) Thx a lot !
Great video. Gave me a little more confidence to try more with the router. I'm laboring over 3/4" wide dado grooves right now and not sure how I want to do the jig.. I like simple so may try your 90 degree technique
Fantastic useful info… I always have my right hand and now know what to do with it. - I just received a package from Bits and Bits…exciting. - a friends wife saw me in “your” shop apron, and is now getting one for her husband.
Hello, thank you for the insight into routers as well as this video, thanks to both of them I started thinking seriously about DeWalt, although already have a Makita. There's however one thing in this video I don't understand. When you close up a fence like you did in 7:06 on DeWalt router, it would stay between the bit and the workpiece. How would you rout then? For the bit to cut, the fence has to be open just a bit wider than the diameter of the bit and the bit has to stick out the front surface of the fence by desired amount, right? Otherwise they would never meet... The same goes with that piece of plywood on the "cheap" fence. Without opening in it the entire bit will stay either inside or the outside of the fence. Setup like that would only work when you cut a dado which is not always the case.
*Support What We Do at The Katz-Moses Store* lddy.no/stih
*Dewalt 1.25HP DWP611* - amzn.to/34bAxLF
*Dewalt 2.25HP With Plunge Base Kit* amzn.to/3gFF8g0
BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off (My favorite bit is #*Astra Coated* UDC9112)
*Want to learn more about Routers? Check out this playlist -* ruclips.net/p/PLWpKyJXgeoFGOQtgnJ1r1ttKhVzYaomXT
*Router Bushings* lddy.no/z7ev
*My Favorite double Sided Tape* lddy.no/g2ht
10.25
Plunge base*
Coupon code only taking 10% off bits& bits
One of the few guys that provides valuable information without killing me with crappy music. Keep up the great work!
Or bad humor attempts
As a shop teacher, I teach my students, "You read left to right, you should router left to right" when the router is in front of the board with very few exceptions! I teach them to move fast and nibble across the grain and go slower routing with the grain, and other router techniques. Have never had an accident teaching 7th and 8th graders!
My life would be a lot different if someone had taught me woodworking in the 8th grade. That’s awesome. Thanks for the tips.
Teaching 7th and 8th graders how to use power tools is insanity and you deserve statues built in honor of what you do. Maybe an award from the president.
@@Leadership_matters Yes sir, I agree with this man. Gotta be a wooden statue. Mahogany maybe.
Has your injury ratio changed in the last 9 months? Usually Murphy's Law kicks in when you say something like that.
Any room for a 46 year old 8th grader? I just want to take you class... lol
As an Electrical Engineer for more than three decades, I always used the right hand trick for router applications too - it was borrowed from my Electromag classes. Despite I always used it I never considerred it was important also for non Electrical Engineers. Congrats to bring that to all.
Woah your last name is my first name
Never in my life have I met another Cristo
I wish I would have found this video sooner, after years of difficulty with performing routing. Have greatly improved my woodworking. Thank you
I love my flush cut bit from Bits and Bits. Bought it two years ago at your recommendation and It’s still going strong.
Loving your right hand rule, because being unsure of the correct direction is always a thing unless it's on the table, from the right.
For handheld/plunge routing, I made my own mnemonic: CIAO. Clockwise Inside, Anticlockwise Outside. Get it wrong and you can say "ciao" to your work. I hope this helps someone.
I'm used to larger, corded routers ruclips.net/user/postUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.
I have 3 now. Always learning new thing and buying more for them. I need a router table now.
Good work.
Honestly, I'm not cheap; just thrifty. My Scot heritage comes through at every opportunity. For 35 years of occasional router use I kept telling myself that high speed steel was good enough for what I did with a router. Wood got more expensive and I wanted better quality outcomes. Thanks to you and others like you, my standards are better these days and I don't dare risk $7.00 or more per board foot lumber on anything less than Freud or Whiteside bits and the Bits&Bits coating ROCK. I watch my expenses by not trashing nice wood. Good tools are less expensive than damaged raw materials in the long run.
I bought my first circular saw, impact drill and drill driver. Next is my router. I'm a newbie to tools and wood work. This is informative. You've earned my subscription.
Aha! The right hand rule. Not just for electricity and magnetic fields. Thanks for the video!
Beginner woodworking enthusiast here.
Just want to say thank you. This was really very helpful.
Nice to see recommendations according to personal experience rather than paid sponsors. We novices need help choosing our tools to avoid either buying too much or too little. Like most tools, routers are fun to use but a wrong choice can make their use either a pain or results not what we wanted. Your video is very informative and gave more info in it's short time than most give in days of videos. Also, even though you have a nice setup, it is not so overwhelming (big) that I turn it off out of frustration because I only have (most have less) a single garage size area. Most tubers don't realize their pole barn size shop is a turnoff, not a turn on. Thanks for keeping it real and informative and not a "look at what I got" video!.
My first table saw was Craftsman contractor saw. I purchased a cast iron extension wing for it which came with a router plate and fence. I loved it. Much better than the small working surface available on most router tables. Years later I graduated to a cabinet saw with the right wing incorporating a router mount. With my offcut extension table, I have a router table with sixteen square feet of work area. Most, if not all, of the cuts in this video can be done better and more safely using a table, rather than a handheld router. I know, like me at first, a lot of folks have a limited budget but, it is something to keep in mind for the future.
I will not have a saw without this provision.
New here , getting into woodworking at age 22-23 love the content and advice. Please keep up the knowledge sharing
Jonathan somewhere out there a shop teacher is very proud. God bless
Good video.
Router table = right to left
Router= left to right
One thing I might add is use dust collection whenever possible. I believe it is Oneida who makes a hood to hook up to a vacuum. It will also help cool the bit. Just make sure you use a very flexible hose and make sure you can control the router safely with the vac hose connected.
Ron
I just broke a bit and it flew away it was so scary.
Went back home, and got this video as a recommendation, I just learned about the 1/4 inch depth passes, this would have probably saved me the scare!
The way you explain is SOOO awesome! Thanks for that!
Just bought the corded Mikita as it was better for my budget. I’ve been searching for decent videos of how to use this tool. The content within this presentation in my opinion was excellent. It gave me a great idea where to start. I have to cut some rebates and couldn’t get my head round how to go about it. Well done and thank you.
I just want to say that you solved a problem I have. I am making a sheet pan drawer with 1/4" dividers in it. So, I need to route groves into the drawer. But, I did not know how I was going to get an accurate cut for the center groves. In comes the jig you showed how to make. Thank you. Also, I am going to be adding the pice to my wouter guide as well because I ran into that issue, too. Thank you for your great advice! I love your content! And look forward to buying one of your aprons as soon as I can afford the extra expense!
Very helpful. I don't know why the router has been so intimidating but I finally picked one up last year. I've only used it a couple of times but I plan to remedy that.
Great info, Jonathan~! I'm working on a display case project that requires some 1/4" stopped dado's on the inside faces and I was brainstorming the best way to accomplish it. Your dado/groove jig tip is just what I was looking for, so perfect timing. Thanks so much for this video~!
Saving this video as it contains a wealth of great info! I absolutely LOVE the right hand thumb rule. That is going to save so much time trying to remember which way is the bit spinning and which way do I feed the board!
This video has answered so many questions that have kept me from using my router. Many thanks for your help.
Always a great video to watch over and over again and again. I have quite a collection of routers and 1/2” and 1/4” bits. So I enjoy watching to gain more knowledge and techniques to improve my skills.
Nice fixes. Simple and safe. Screwed up my first brass bushing due to not having a centered face plate.
Thank you, I brought a plunge router about 4 weeks ago and it's just been sitting there because I had no idea how to use it properly and safely. I'm pretty savvy but been super intimidated to use it. Been sanding round overs and the like by hand like a Muppet. This video really helped cheers.
This link should be printed on all future router instruction manuals.
Haven't watched all your videos (yet) but already I can tell that you are the best teacher for newbies like myself, great tips and amazing explanation skills, overall high quality, friendly, no-nonsense knowledge transfer, as well as top notch video production...THANKS
Paul sellers and Matt Estlea are great as well.
The single most important thing a person can do before using a router is to watch this video! 😎
👍
@@youtukang yv
That's true
I disagree. I think the most important thing to do in almost every case is to stroke the hog.
" you are either living in post nut clarity or in pre nut delusional".
Don't love your life in delusion. One love
I really love my routers and I really thought I knew how they worked - this video has been a game changer for me! Thanks a million!!
Great video as always, and amen on spending more for better bits. I learned my lesson today routing a juice groove. I had been using a cheapo core box bit from an Amazon kit and was getting burning every time that then had to be painstakingly sanded off. On a whim a few days ago, I figured I'd try and buy a Whiteside bit instead. I did a large board today without a single burn mark through maple, walnut, cherry, and mahogany.
Cheers!
Yes, Amazon has probably much more garbage than good items. They are inundated with Chinese junk. That is not saying that they don't have SOME good products, but the majority is just junk! YMMV.
Best advice from the man in the know. Thanks for sharing the great video, Johnathan. I hope you and you're family are doing well.
Love the hand trick! I always have to stop and think about it for a minute.
An extension of the right hand tip (not for when the router is in a table): if you extend your right thumb and index finger (like a gun, pew pew) and place your thumb against the edge to be routed your finger will be pointing in the correct direction of router movement.
I mark my routers on the top and the side with a black marker.
Great video very informative. The only thing you need now is a Musclechuck for that router to make changing bits a breeze.
the dewalt plunge router has integrated dust control. take the cap off the top of the rubber accordion gizmo and plug in your DC hose. Dust and shreddings are generated in HUGE amounts from routing, so you should try and get dust control under control. Many routers have DC attachments you can buy, shrouds, etc. several edge guides you showed have DC capabilities as well.
Great video and information.
In another video, unfortunately forget which channel, they mentioned another benefit to bushings. Template bits have bearings at the end or base of the bit, which requires full bit extension or full depth cuts of the work piece. With bushings being independent of the bit, you can make template cuts at any depth.
The depth stop can be used as a precise depth measure too..........zero out the bit on the work like was shown here, place the work piece you want to insert into the routed area on top of the "turret" stop and place the depth plunger on top of the piece and lock it down....now you have the precise depth for the part you want to fit :)
Two hours ago, I didn't know what this tool was called, I just googled what I wanted to do 😂 It's super helpful with videos like these, even though much of the names of things still don't mean anything to me. But I'm starting to see how I can use this tool for so many other things apart from the project I'm planning that had me googling it. Like that "flush bit" thing would've been really handy last year when I renovated and resized an old door to fit in a different frame, and my crap plunge saw made sucky cuts. Of course, having a better plunge saw in the first place would've helped, too, but I can see how this tool can really help get the details perfect with little effort👌
great advice, i got my "blem" stop the other day, i exected something that had a very noticeable blem, What i got was a slall mrk on the front and it is even viewable when in use. thanks much.
I like your "right hand trick". Great tips.
The fixed base routers are comparatively new to the non trade purchaser in UK, so most people are more familiar with the plunging router, and understand the uses of the turret depth stop.
I highly recommend the cheap “Trend” sets of bits as starter kits.
Oh boy..so helpful and informative. I am new woodworker and purchase a plunge router by porter cable 800 series and I have been intimidated and just wound not use the router out of fear and ignorance. after watching your video I am ready to get back at it. ?? Can I have link to purchase the template guide that I discussed near the end of the video.
I just baught my first router a dewalt and this was very helpful thank you for making it
Thank you so much. That was my first lesson on routers. I need more data.
I like the right hand rule, but modify it a little. I point my thumb up, index finger forward, and curl around the middle, ring and pinky on right hand. (Like when a kid makes a gun using their hand). The thumb points up for table, down for router, the middle, ring and pinky indicate the direction the bit spins, and the index points in the direction the router should be pushed.
Newborn DIY'er here. These 101 type vids are priceless, and I'll be seeing what I can get from your links and store to support you (when I know what I actually need).
The plunge feature brilliant explanation,very helpful. Thank you.
It's my #1 tool. I use 6 different routers with different functions. Table, free, Palm, Pantorouter, etc.
Great video!! To comment on the “size matters” piece, I don’t have a band saw to remove material, I use a guide bushing for that.
Fantastic tips, Jonathan. These will definitely help when making a router purchase this year.
As a side note, I’ve just received my 6:1 ratio dovetail guide today. It came a lot faster than I thought too; less than two weeks from California to the UK. It’s to go with my 8:1 dovetail guide, my alignment board and my apron, which is fantastic by the way and superb value for money. Thanks so much and keep up the great work 👍
Great video, your concept on the direction of the bit, never looked at it that way about the right hand grip. I was taught, look at the direction of the bit itself, you want it to always pull the material "into" the router or fence if a router table.
Now, I do have to disagree about the auxiliary fence, reason is, chips have to go somewhere and they don't all drop straight down. Perfect example of this is, do a dado with a handheld then do one on a router table, see which has a better chip clearing. I prefer to have that opening for this reason only. The fence on your router table isn't solid like a TS fence is, again, chips have to go somewhere plus, it allows airflow to help keep the bit cool. Overheat a bit and they'll snap on you, can cause a very serious injury, 30k rpms and a small projectile... not fun.
One thing I was taught about setting depth, use brass bars in aid to set your depth and small bites. I've seen many bits break because some people believe, it will just push through, they don't, they'll break. Great video, cheers :)
Might be better for a beginner to get better but not best quality router bits. Cheap bit could make it a less satisfying experience. Still, cheap bits are pretty good but don't last as long before they get dull. Good video. A few things I didn't already know. I always enjoy learning something new.
I got that Ultimate trim bit after watching your super slow motion video and it is really an amazing bit.
Keep an eye out for discounts on bits too, sometimes there is a product lineup change or other reason for the store to be clearing carbide sets at big discounts. Just recently got a $200 set 50% off - quality coated carbide, not garbage. Good luck out there friends!
Nice video, thanks. The only thing I don't like about only using the first 1/4" of the bit is you wear that part out and dull it. To help with that when I use the same bit with a bushing to trim an edge I stick the bit slightly over a 1/4" out the other side and use the part of the bit that is still like new.
Yeah but also just part of consumables
Thanks so much for this video. I just bought my first router with table. This video gave me so much info. Thanks again!
Physics aside, that was so well explained! Complete with the memory aides. Very well done! Thank you.
What a simple and intuitive way to think of router bit rotation. Thank you
Gee, and I thought I knew most tips and things to do with routers,... thanks for this further education on routers.
I could never remember which way to run my router until I learned a little trick from Jason Hibbs of Bourbon Moth Woodworking. Make an "L" with the thumb and index fingers of your right hand (finger gun or "loser" hand sign). Put the tip of your thumb against the surface you want to use your router on with the palm of your hand facing down. Your index finger will always point in the direction you should run your router. You can use the same "trick" for your router table also. You just push the work piece in the direction your index finger is pointing.
Like the thumb up down trick. Thanks.
I’ve never used my plunge base. Thanks so much for this!
Great info video , to the point, no crazy music , your a wood shop teacher . Thanks from Maine
Love that video instruction. So useful!!! Even I an Russian I understood everything so clearly. Thanks buddy!!!
That homemade router guide is perfect for a project I am just starting. Thanks!
Thanks for showing us the best *route* to go. Ba-dum-tss. I'll see myself out now
Very punny
I recommend multiple routers...
I have a....
Triton TRA001 beast for my table
DeWalt 624 general use plunger
Cheapo plunger permanantly set up for my dovetail jig
And a cheap little trim router...
The first 2 were spendy (& well worth it) but the other 2 were not...
Also, when using the table, featherboards , horizontal & vertical , are your friend... I made my own from ABS as I've also got a fully equipped machining setup, mills & lathes etc...
😎👍☘🍺
I am so glad i found your channel. Love the way you explain and teach for newbies like myself. Thanks!
Excellent hints that could save time and life.
Quite a Bit of great information in this vid. A nice deep plunge into the topic. My head is spinning with all the lessons.
When he said he was going to kiss us goodnight, I didn't realize he meant it literally. About 5 minutes ago I heard a knock on the door. I opened it, and there he was. Our eyes met. He stepped forward. I stepped back half a step, unsure of what to do or how to interpret what was happening. The look in his eyes was reassuring. There was nothing sensual about it. He was just a man fulfilling an innocent goodnight promise to a loyal, but very confused viewer. I took a tentative step forward. We embraced briefly. Our beards locked like velcro. We shared a nervous laugh as we each freed our faces from the grip of the other. I managed few halting words. "Um...uh...goodnight, Jon...I guess." More a question than a statement. He turned and walked off into the night without a word. It was the weirdest night in the shop I ever had.
🤣🤣
Funniest thing I've read in a while
„Our beards locked like velcro“. That part had me laughing out loud 😂
I’ve learned so much from this guy. Everything is clear and easy to understand! Thank you!
Even simpler, draw an arrow on your router table.
I remember you from cooks kitchen. Thanks for the videos!
Great information in a very way to understand. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Great video! That simple jig with ca glue will get used tomorrow!
They were great tips so thank you so much as a beginner I need all the help I can get
I'm finding the direction thing confusing ... watching again
5:00 Also … I’ve always gone by the rule that you use the cheapest/easiest to sharpen cutter first. So, cut first with the tablesaw or bandsaw, then the router.
Thanks man! Especially like the dive into the plunge base.
Excellent video. Very informative. Nicely done and good sense of humor to top it off…Thank you
Just about to buy my first router. Your video is my first. Great explanation. Gonna have to subscribe now. Thanks
Dear Jonathan,
thank you very much for your very informing videos. I am enjoying them quiet a lot.
Could you or your community answer me one simple question: If i am edging my cutting board i am going clockwise, correct ? If i cut some juice grooves, i am going counter clockwise, correct? I just messed up a board and i dont wanne do the same mistake twice (the boards before that were fine, just luck ? ) Thx a lot !
Really enjoyed the depth stop explanation 🔥🙏🏻
Absolutely genius idea for a jig, bro 👌
so size matters and the littler the better makes perfect sense
Great video. Gave me a little more confidence to try more with the router. I'm laboring over 3/4" wide dado grooves right now and not sure how I want to do the jig.. I like simple so may try your 90 degree technique
This was so good. Thank you so much, I learned a ton.
Im new to woodworking and this was such a helpful video! Thanks so much!
Fantastic useful info… I always have my right hand and now know what to do with it.
- I just received a package from Bits and Bits…exciting.
- a friends wife saw me in “your” shop apron, and is now getting one for her husband.
Hello, thank you for the insight into routers as well as this video, thanks to both of them I started thinking seriously about DeWalt, although already have a Makita. There's however one thing in this video I don't understand. When you close up a fence like you did in 7:06 on DeWalt router, it would stay between the bit and the workpiece. How would you rout then? For the bit to cut, the fence has to be open just a bit wider than the diameter of the bit and the bit has to stick out the front surface of the fence by desired amount, right? Otherwise they would never meet... The same goes with that piece of plywood on the "cheap" fence. Without opening in it the entire bit will stay either inside or the outside of the fence. Setup like that would only work when you cut a dado which is not always the case.
I ordered the shop apron, can't wait for it to arrive
Excellent video!! Thanks from London England 👍😎🏴
Super fantastic and thorough video, Jonathan! Well done sir!
Yes!!! I have been waiting for this video! I can relate to the right hand rule, and sometimes end up doing a climb cut. Routers kinda scare me.
Well done, just out there saving fingers