Does the average DIY'er really need a Plunge Saw?
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- Опубликовано: 26 май 2024
- After making do using standard circular saws for my whole DIY life I finally purchase my first 'Plunge Saw' and put it though it's paces to see if it really is better than a traditional circular saw.
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► Dewalt 18v Circular Saw: amzn.to/3Py6AOn
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I went all out and bought a Festool plunge saw when I started getting into more serious woodworking. One of my best investments ever!
Wise words at 2:30! When I did my apprenticeship, an older wiser engineer asked my why I had bought expensive Snap-on tools and then explained to me that we buy cheap tools, and when they break, replace it with a quality tool. The philosophy being that a tool that breaks, means you are using it often.
Great, applying that advice to himself, he has the best tools, best car, best cloths, best boat, best phone etc. Well, glad he lives in a world where moneys no object. If he does though, why isn’t he paying the best person to do the job?
It means that you waisting money
I bought a plunge saw, not to replace my circular saw, but to replace my table saw as I had no room for either an infeed or an outfeed table in a very small workspace 👍
My woodworking skills improved exponentially the moment I bought my plunge saw. For making cabinetry and furniture it is indispensable and the accuracy saves lots of fiddling about to make things fit. With one of these and a cordless circular saw, there is nothing you cannot tackle.
It can't drill holes 🤣👍
@@STEVIEBHOYIt is very useful to make holes, just not small ones. Just the ones that a drill isn't useful for.
Fully agree i had the same experience. Opened me up to a whole world of options. I also have no room for a table saw and the track saw can handle most cuts
Ditto. One my first bigger project involved over £1k worth of oak. There was no room for errors. All repeated cuts came out super precise, square and equal - rendering my evo table saw and the mitre saw completely useless. Peter Millard also said that the more expensive plunge saws have much better dust collection: I fully support this statement - while cutting, I do not even have to switch the extractor: all dust ends up in the hose on its own (unless you trim very tiny straps from the edges, with the blade exposed). My advice to the new DIYers? If you cannot afford very good table saw and very good mitre saw - buy one, good plunge saw. Budget of around £500 quid will even allow you to buy a few accessories from benchdogs. You will be happy with your projects.
A tool opens up capabilities but doesn't suddenly improve your skills 😜
I bought the exact same model yesterday for 79.99 at my nearest Lidl. I've had a circular saw for a number if years and always looked at getting a plunge saw but always manged with straight edges of various descriptions. However based on your video and what my needs are this is a bargain. I have just started putting up shelves in my garage to make some room for my small work area. With 12 sheets of 18mm OSB to cut and seen it it was too hard to pass up. Having cut all the sheets to the sizes i need it has been brilliant, not missed a beat and bang on with cutting measurements. Keep the videos going as your one of the few who do not recommend a specific brand or sponsored by one. I use Einhell battery range as the batteries are way cheaper than other brands. But have a parkside impact driver (never missed a beat) and now a plunge saw.
Keep the videos coming 👍.
I have never done any wood work yet, about to do some subflooring in the basement. But I still bought the plunge saw anyway knowing I will probably use it once a year... Who knows, maybe I'll start making some cabinets after I'm done with the basement floor... I plan to sell my open box circular saw and see if I can live with only a plunge saw without needing a circular saw or a table saw.
I wouldn't be without my Makita plunge saw, it's a game changer. I used to use circular saws with homemade track guide etc.. but the plunge saw tops it.
As a DIYer by force having bought an old timber house that needs a lot of repair and general maintenance, I bought a plunge saw as my first saw. The main reason was that I was terrified of using a circular saw. My track/plunge saw has seen me gain confidence in using power tools and I realised, after purchasing a mitre saw for skirting boards and general cross cutting, that a circular saw is something that I should be looking at purchasing because I would use it more often than either of the two saws I had. So I took the plunge (he he he) and bought an 18v Makita circular saw. That saw is now my main go-to on a day to day basis. However, track/plunge saw does come out for ripping larger pieces and when I need long narrow pieces for filling the many gaps in timber walls, ceilings and floorboards. It's just so precise that I can get 2 mm thin lengths of wood strips with it. I just love it. And I do love my circular saw. I have attached a dust bag to the circular saw since I had a spare dust bag from my track saw and that deals with most of the dust coming from the circular saw. I would not want to be without either saw now. Both have jobs to do and they make my work so much easier.
@AncoralmparoPiper I too am terrified of my circular, never lose that fear and respect, safety first.
@@mrgunn2726 I don`t think being terrified of a tool is really good, because I might actually produce safety issues. Good training might help. But yes I agree, never lose respect, and safety concerns.
I love that your channel is so down to earth. There's no Festool sponsorship here!
This is one of the best tools I’ve ever bought for DIY, this and a multi tool. Let’s face it us DIYers will never be perfect at cutting straight…
I bought a super cheap plunge saw a couple of years ago, plus some extra track to make a 2.5m length for breaking down whole sheets… the short track I got with the saw I modified to add a 90 degree stop for making accurate crosscuts. I now hardly use the table saw on sheets: Tracksaw is so much quicker, plus I love the clean edges when you use the ‘pre-cut’ setting on the plunge saw to remove a thin layer from the workpiece, followed by the full-depth cut. Great for worktops, melamine, etc etc. Worth every penny.
The Lidl/Parkside one doesn't have a 'pre-cut' or 'scribe' stop but looking at the blade change stop/lock it should be possible to modify it use it to give one and still retain its intended purpose. In fact looking at how the actuating lever is placed I wonder if it originally was dual-purpose.
I made do with a standard DeWalt circular saw and home made guides for a long time. What finally made me buy a Makita track saw was needing to make quality cuts INDOORS. Even with a shop vac attached, the DeWalt produced so much dust the cleanup time with MDF was unacceptable .
All improved with the track saw, especially the dust control. Cut quality vastly improved even though I used a high quality blade on the DeWalt. No having to clamp the home made guide either !
One of my best buys.
Yes, now a diyer can finally cut a straight line!!! Wow
I bought a Makita plunge saw a few years ago and a kit with the rails and some clamps etc cost about £450. I bought it because i don't have the luxury of space for a table saw. Next best thing when you don't have the space.
My Cordless Bosch Professional Circ Saw comes out just to destroy stuff lol
These are great, I can cut down built up panels with a track rather than separately cutting pieces to make the panel. I can set depth with a little trial and error. I can use it to make hand drawn miters (these are a lot lot more compact than a miter saw, it fits in my cupboard in my flat). If you must have only two tools for woodworking projects, have one of these and a drill. These also produce less sawdust than my Dads miter saw. I've built a beautiful reclaimed wood reinforced shed with this.
oh, can plunge saw replace miter saw for some basic trim work such as baseboard and door trims?
Depends on definition of average DiYer. Neither you nor I are such.
Picture hooks, assembled Ikea, screw a hook on a door - don't need plunge saw or circular saw - a small case of a small drill screwdriver with bits (daughter has a Bosch kit that works fine) plus a jigsaw is all they need.
Cutting sheets, gutting and rebuilding old houses... I managed with panel saws and circular saws plus mdf guides all my 68 years but the Makita track with Makita track adapter for my relatively new Makita 55mm deep cut circular saw makes me ask where it's been all my life.
After rebuilding the bank account following numerous landmark birthdays, a wedding, external cladding, and new roof, a Makita corded track saw plus long track is on the shopping list. Will be making many cabinets for home and daughter in two wiggly bendy old SE London houses - so much faster, and I no longer have a heavy-duty bench to support hand tool work
For 50 pounds I'd think it's well worth the cost. In NZ a Makita is 1049 dollars (500 pounds)
Life changing if like me you’ve got astigmatism in both eyes. I am, (and believe me I tried) incapable of cutting wood in a straight line. Why? Because what is absolutely straight to me, absolutely isn’t. Track saw was the best thing i ever brought but don’t stop there, make sleds for everything, router, grinder, etc etc. I find the evolution track is a better fit on my makita than the makita track.
The track saw is revolutionary, it is my favourite tool , it is safe and accurate in a way that a cabinet saw never will be.
My TS55 is just about my favourite tool of all time, I only wish I had bought it years earlier.
Same here. Together with an MFT, it’s a very versatile tool.
I sold my festool plunge saw , yep had it years loved it , made money lol , as I down sized my storage , my god price of them now no plunge now
They have been a game changer, ,we use to cut down 1" 8x4's whether a travelling table, rip or wall saw manoeuvring them physically is a ball ache, now one man can do the operation with an occasional lift...
For cutting up floorboards (repairing damage left by electrician after rewire) I found the plunge saw invaluable. I can plunge the saw in at a certain point to a certain depth, cutting only on the joist, avoiding pipe work and cables etc. Nothing else would make such a neat job of this. On a separate job, I then used it to cut laminate and laid this flooring much quicker than I would have done using my circular saw.
Because it can plunge its also brilliant for cutting out sinks & hobs on kitchen worktops, & far more accurate than a jigsaw.
It’s not either or though. Both have their uses. I originally bought a cordless plunge saw so that I could cut up timber in a car park if necessary as well since I did not have a circular saw at the time. Now I have 2 plunge saws (added a cheap corded one with a different track profile) and a circular saw once I could afford them. Both types are great and I imagine most people will have both eventually as plunge saws are now so affordable. The great news is that even the entry model plunge saws perform very well as you just demonstrated. Good video 👍🏻
Of course the recommendation should be……they are power tools so of course you need one of each😊
Erm...i'll take one of everything please. 😂
A plunge/track saw is just like nearly every other tool in your workshop/spare bedroom/shed. It can be used for many things and some of them it will do well and some less so. Ultimately you do the job with the tools you HAVE (don't know how to do italic).
The job will either be easy or difficult, quick or slow depending on the tools you have to hand.
You can make high quality, accurate cuts with a circular saw if you take time to prepare the cut and take your time. You can make those cuts quicker with a track saw with maybe more accurately because of the track with lower prep time. And there are times when the type of cut you want to do is really difficult with a circular/track saw, but much easier and quicker with a table saw (long accurate cuts to create a thin strip for example).
If you can afford one and have the space to store it and the rails then a track saw is a great addition to your tool kit. But then so is a table saw for exactly the same reasons, and a jig saw and a band saw. You get the idea.
Ultimately I think if you are a DIYer/maker then you'll fill your toolkit with the tools you can afford and have space to store and they will be the primary considerations for most people.
I don’t have a plunge saw or a saw track. I use a metal or wood straight-edge clamped down to the workpiece, measure carefully (twice) and cut along that. This system has never let me down and i’ve cut rebates like this too with a fine/sharp blade. It’s not the cost of the kit - it’s because I don’t want tools I don’t really need taking up valuable storage space.
Y’know, I have wondered and wondered……..like most of us I am a tool buyer. My father and I have enough still in boxes to stock a small hardware shop!!
Price (on a plunge saw) has always held me back……..Now I am a bit of a ‘tool snob’ so Parkside to date…..nope! I won’t have such a carrier bag in my hand! I know but that’s me and someone loves me!!
So I now watch with trepidation: DeWalt v Parkside on spec, not really fair? Dust Collection it’s not going to be a regular use anyway? (I don’t want to be defending Parkside!) seems I will be getting a plunge saw soon just not a Parkside!
Great video and helpful in two ways.
Bob
England
The plunge saw is the tool that I wish that I had bought years ago. The accuracy and neatness of the cut beats my circular sawhands down.
Having said that, I'll take both tools with me for my next big project (cladding the inside of our beach hut) because some of the work can be quick and dirty with the circular saw as it will never be seen when the job is finished.
Make an MFT table for maximum benefit. Square cuts and perfect edges are virtually guaranteed.
I have had this exact saw for a couple of years now and it's been well worth the money. If you do any cabinetry with sheet goods and want consistancy and accuracy they are invaluable. I don't see them as a replacement for a circular saw but rather a tablesaw and fore most people this will do most jobs a table saw does at a fraction of the cost and size. I will say upgrade the blade to a decent one pretty quickly, it makes a big difference to the quality of cut especially with laminate materials and ply on the waste side. Decent rail clamps are a good upgrade too (the Makita ones are great and not overly expensive), the saw is pretty accurate but only if the track doesn't slide around.
I had always wondered about plunge saws having used my trusty circular saw and old fashioned straight edge guides until I bought one. They make cutting tasks so easy no working out the distances from the blade to the edge and transferring to the straight edge it's as simple as put you measurement on the workpiece put the track and cut..in most cases no need for even a clamp..haven't used my circular saw now for over two years.
Nothing cuts straighter and more accurately than a proper track saw. I just love how my work pieces, even very large ones, come out perfectly square and straight. There is something very satisfying about that, even as a DIYer you feel as if that extra professional touch is worthwhile. It does take some practice to really nail it, and there are some issues that can crop up (as well as solutions), but I have gone over the learning curve and at this point I would never be without one. That being said...I wouldn't buy the cheapest one, I picked up the Makita 36V instead (which has great cutting power to boot).
I’ve had my festool for years now and wouldn’t be without it. I will change to a cordless festool at some point though.
Getting the rail with that is a bonus, a lot of "top" brands thats a separate cost
After moving into a house that had previously been occupied by a crazy cat lady, and hadn't been cared for for a good few years, we decided to replace all the manky internal doors that weren't already missing. As the door frames were all over the place every single door needed cutting down to fit. My father got hold of a Titan plunge saw, and once we had purchased a longer track kit (Makita/Festool all work with the Titan) it made short work of the new doors with a smooth finish, requiring no further planing. It also proved its worth cutting hardboard sheets for laying over some gappy floor upstairs - the cut depth accuracy is very impressive for a 'budget' machine.
Definitely a tool that DIYers could use regularly. I have a job to do soon involving cutting furrings for a flat roof conversion on a brick shed, so I will be borrowing the saw for that!
Thanks, looked at these in Lidl and wasn’t sure but know I can trust your reviews.
I think he forgot to mention the riving knife. Definitely a big safety feature that's particularly relevant to beginners. I pinched my circular saw more than a few times until I figured out I was an idiot. And blade wandering too much during the cut.
Id definitely recommend getting 2 x 1.4m guide rails and connectors so you can cut down full 8x4 sheets of timber, also trim down the vertical sides of wooden doors etc.
Yes. Love my Makita 18v. Build a DIY MFT and you have a solid basis to tackle a large range of projects.
MFT table and track saw is a fantastic combination to own. Makes things so much easier and almost guarantees professional results.
I had a circular saw with a homemade track. Doesn't take many instances of it wandering off the intended line and ruining a workpiece for the plunge saw to pay for itself. I got a second hand Erbauer, does the job for accurate cuts but to be honest it lacks enough power and bogs down easily. I use a large sheet of sacrificial insulation board underneath.
I bought a Makita plunge saw last year and have been very impressed with its performance. Cutting melamine faced chipboard leaves a perfect edge on the underside and for most purposes the splinter guard produces an acceptable top edge but the Makita comes with the facility to do a fixed depth scribe cut and doing this gives you two perfect edges. As for dust collection I find suspending the hose from above avoids stopping and adjusting the hose on long cuts. Incidentally, Strawbyte Workshop sells 3D printed covers for the blade change holes but mainly for the more popular makes. He also sells offside spacers which enable you to accurately account for the blade thickness when the piece you are cutting off needs to be cut to a specific width.
I bought the Dewalt tracked circular saw when my previous circular saw died. TBH it wasn’t great at cabinet sheet goods work. Yes accurate straight line cuts on the track but a wildly unclear depth adjustment and abysmal dust collection made it less than ideal in a workshop. Despite the ouch price I bought a Festool TS55 and absolutely love it.
In my view a plunge saw is a game changer and a much better option than a circular saw enabling precise cuts more quickly. Yes, with a bit of ingenuity AND TIME, you can make guide rails in timber that you can use with a circular saw but they simply aren’t as versatile. A good guide rail is surprisingly ‘sticky’ and often doesn’t need to be clamped down to achieve a good cut. It can also be moved fractionally to make the thinnest of shim cuts. Mine is cordless and I often take it with me when I am picking up large sheets from a timber merchants, as I can cut the sheets accurately there and then to fit in the back of the car, minimising waste. 99% of anything else you pick-up can be cut with a handsaw to fit. Quicker, safer, more accurate and far, far better in my opinion.
I made my own track for my circular saw and now bought a plunge and 100% better. Should have bought one years ago.
Bought cordless aswell.
You can overhang the track a little so you don't have to keep cutting into sacraficial timber you know? Also if you shell out for a 40 tooth quality blade you will cut Melamine, ply etc with a factory finish
Wouldn't be without one, using Bosch FSN rails with their plunge saw, but I prefer to use my 18v GKS 18V-57G circular saw it's not so cumbersome, & with adaptor plates can use rails with my routers & jigsaw.
I started with a circular saw, and now upgraded to a plunge saw. Yes, it was expensive, but the setup is so much quicker that it's worth it for me :)
I love my Makita plunge saw with the 1.5 m and 1 m rails. Didn’t buy the rails at the same time so I couldn’t use the trick in the video for the first cut. Darn. Great for just shaving of the end bords when walls aren’t square.
I've cut many doors to the right height and always used a circular saw and attached a straight edge to the door with clamps. Straight line every time. For sheets a length of timber is screwed to the sheet if the holes cant be seen..
So I don’t need one if I’m nifty enough with my circular saw? Mainly used for roughing ply & OSB but I want to knock up a media wall using mdf & I’ve been thinking about using a straight edge as opposed to buying a track saw that I’ll rarely use 🤷🏻♂️. Opinion appreciated Richard
I bought a Titan PS a few years ago and it burnt out last week. I have a circular saw, a table saw and mitre saw but my most used is the PS. I will get another ASAP as it's just so good at what it does. About a year ago I built a portable MFT setup and this really unleashed the versatility of the PS. I have several other track accessories(clamps, rail squares etc.) which have been extremely useful in getting nice square cuts and I intend to buy the Bench dogs MFT track hinge which will make things a little quicker. I recently had to make 3 cuts on a cabinet carcass while fitting my daughters posh new kitchen. The use of the tracks and PS made what was 3 quite difficult cuts much easier. I'm a huge fan of PS's but you really do need to ensure the stock is well supported on both the good and waste sides as I learned early in my days using it to cut down 8x4 ply sheets. The blade got pinched by the sheets and the saw kicked back violently. The blade retracts in a split second but it still tore up about a 3 inch section of the track glide strip. Since then I am very attentive to this detail.
Easy answer: yes. But better to have both. The ones that don’t plunge come in bigger sizes and more powerful for freehand cutting large timbers.
Bought a Lidl/Parkside one as a Xmas present to myself but not yet used it in anger. It lacks the 2mm scribe cut function of the MacAlister but it looks the otherwise rarely-used blade change lock could be modified to give this and still retain its blade change function.
The plunge function makes it easy to make a cut in the middle of a board.
I was helping a kitchen fitter the other day and they used their beast of a DeWalt cordless plunge saw to put a hob cut-out in a worktop, something that a DIYer would probably use a jigsaw for. Four cuts, a pullsaw to complete the cuts at the corners and job done - measuring and checking probably took longer than cutting.
I got that saw but with an other name on the panel but it is the same made in China thing, well I got two, the first one committed suicide and self-destructed the motor so I had to get a new one and as a side effect I then got 4 rails and then it starts to be useful for my working. You can get rails in one-piece in different length, 1.8, 2, 3, and 5 meter, the 3 meter cost just as much as the saw, aftermarket rails are a bit cheaper but not by much.
Regarding dust collection, then there are a few modifications you can make, one is to cover the gap between the housing and the sole, an other is to a an extra sole but on the other side of the blade so to speak, it do not need to be big/huge, just cover a bit more that the points where the blade do the cutting (and it depend on the depth of cut) this mod also reduce tear out on the side opposite to the rail, it is not an easy modification but there are videos on it on YT. I locked the position of the dust port so it goes up it made my life a bit easier.
My first action was to get a new blade the supplied one is/was garbage, we got Leroy-Merlin here locally and the got some cheap blades of their own brand, and if you want the top of the pops then you can buy blades that cost 5 times the price of the saw.
A side note, I had not been able to cut my self with this saw (yet), but with my ordinary circular saw I have got a few stray cuts, both on my body and other places where I do not need them, so just from that perspective I will recommend this type of circular saw. Ordinary circular saws do have blade guard, but now and then it can get jammed in the "exposed blade" position, not good, but it do happen, I had never had this to happen with my plunge saw.
Decided to make my own bespoke alcove cupboards and shelves and intend making my own fitted wardrobes. Decided to treat myself and bought a Mafell tracksaw . It has made my poor woodworking skills appear professional and I can’t knock the Mafell which was possibly the best reviewed saw , expensive but buy once , buy best . The alcove cupboards look great and would have cost me £3500 if someone else had built it , all told with 18 mm Birch ply has cost me about £1800 . Yes that’s a lot of money but when I do my wardrobes another £4500 I will only spend £2000 on ply and now have the track saw , so in all it will have saved me £4200 . Yes there is the cost of screws , paint etc but that will only add another £100 , plus I enjoy woodworking and have it exactly how I want not someone else’s interpretation.
I made it through the whole patent period, and then some, without getting one. But I did get one at Xmas, because I was upgrading my battery options. Now I would not want to be without it. But the question only comes up because of how overpriced they were. I bought a Makita, it takes 2x18V batteries, and during the same sales, I hit on their 2x18V rear handle saw, which is more saw really. Doesn't have the plunge feature, but the framing saw is a lot more powerful and has many expensive features of it's own. It weighs 1.5 X what the plunge saw does, all needed materials and beef. I paid 229 for the framing saw, and 559 Canadian for the plunge saw. Neither came with batteries, fence, or charger. So 2.44 X the price for the plunge saw. Damn It Feels Good To Be A Gangsta.
Had a plunge saw for a while now and wouldn't be without it!! I bought a basic model with cheap tracks and then upgraded the tracks - now is excellent.
🤗
For a 98% handtool workshop, a track saw is a great thing to have as it can someone like me loads of time when beveling the edge of a top/panel, cutting sheet goods on those occasions when making stable cores for veneered panels, etc… Depending on what someone is doing really answers that question as it does with every tool. A pluge/track saw is a luxury for a guy like me who has been sans table saw for quite a while now. That said, if I’m going to do some framing work or am asked to come help a friend, I’m showing up with my ride or die Mag 77 Skilsaw.
Thanks for the video 👍
Very informative Stuart. I was asked by a friend a similar question and recommended the Evolution R185CCSX which is basically a circular saw that runs on a track which I think gives the best compromise i.e the versatility of the circular saw and confidence of being able to cut straight in sheet goods. As your skills develop a plunge-saw becomes a good option if you've no plans or room for a table-saw and cabinet work. On safety, a plunge saw is much more approachable but in all the years I've had one still feel it requires the same level of attention as a normal saw.
I can give another +1 for the Evolution: I like being able to use it on and off the track. The main thing I dislike is the depth gauge isn't very easy to set accurately. Also, I dislike that I dropped it off my workbench yesterday and broke (coincidentally) the depth gauge.
Bought one of these years ago. It's the best tool for sheet goods I've used. You can also buy extended track for it to cut 8 foot sheets.
I got my Parkside when they were £60, I think it's their first model and It's been superb. It has allowed me to carry out cuts that would be have difficult to do with a normal circ saw and to a much higher standard (in my opinion anyway), I also feel safer and more confident using it. I did make some "upgrades", I bought a Festool track on a black friday deal and that gives me a total of 2.8m of track, it's also a better size track for most cuts I find. I also bought a trend high tooth count blade that gives me great cuts on MFC.
I do still own a standard circ saw which is used for rough work like fencing.
When time and funds allow I would like to set up a basic MFT type bench but for now I use a bit of Celotex on the floor.
Do I think a plunge saw is essnetial? No, but when you can get a pretty darn good one for just £80, why wouldn't you, a night out at the pub can cost more than that!
Sounds good for a cutting station rack thingy. Christmas ideas. Frame hanging on the wall maybe.
Additional guide rails can be bought from Kompernass in Germany - part number 282495/ZU01 - £23.63 delivered to UK currently.
I bought some a few weeks ago...
Oh Stuart, once you have used a track saw you will never look back, I bought a second hand Dewalt which I used to cut sheets of ply down to make cabinets and cupboards for my campervan conversion. Have used it the last two days on other projects for my garage as much safer than using my Dewalt table saw. The only downside buying Dewalt is their rail is different to all the other rails on the market. 😢
I've got a plunge saw as my first saw and am very happy with it. Far better than my jig saw cutting down mdf sheets. The plunge saw was far more safer for me. The one big advantage of the McAllister over the the Parkside is that the track is the same one used on the Makita or Festool and my first upgrade for it was a longer Makita track. I am now thinking of buying a Makita plunge saw and can continue using my existing track.
Personally I believe the similarities between a circular saw and plunge saw are purely they look similar and have a spinning blade, they are very much horses for courses, comparing them is comparing apples and oranges.
I consider the plunge saw more as an alternative to a table saw because their uses are far closer imho. but like all tools circular, plunge or table they have their strengths and weaknesses depending on what you want from them
I use circular saw for rough and fast cuts and plunge saw for precise cuts.
Thank you greatly for the ‘leap frog’ idea in trimming the splinter guard!
Chop saw (ok, conpound mitre saw) and track saw turned my table saw into a table. Table saw is now only used for storing stuff or to hold long lengths. All are low budget Aldi/Screwfix versions, but the track saw always makes me smile. It just works.
Great Video. You wont find one for less than £120 ish now. Still seems worth the investment. I use a table saw, but it is a pain as far as space is concerned.
I own the parkside and love it. Its dead accurate and ideal for sheets of wood or squaring off planks, sheets etc.
For the money this is a realy good tool, wish i knew the track-trick sooner, but its working fine.
Thank you for youre video, really clear and usefull.
In the Netherlands Lidl has a online shop, its availeble online so no checking the Lidl store.
You can get superior accuracy when cutting a work surface for a sink cutout.
A useful and informative video as always Stuart, thank you.
There are cordless plunge saws on the market. They are no £80 though. NB the Dewalt 54v plunge saw runs on the Festool rails.
Like you stated in your conclusion - I used the standard circ saw for my initial range of house jobs and projects. Once I decided to build a floor to ceiling custom shoe rack for our entryway I invested in the Makita track saw. My basement isn't large enough for a traditional table saw, so the track (plunge) saw provided me with the precision I needed within the small space I had. We've been enjoying the 8 foot tall custom shoe and backpack rack ever since!
Great presenting style Stuart, they should have you on TV. The new Handy Andy 👏
I would add that the tracksaw is for most people also more usefull than a small table saw (I had both and sold the table saw)
At least if you cut you hand off the cut will be a nice straight cut 😂. I have a track saw, the main thing it will do is speed up your accuracy. You can make a home made track still harder to line up on the cut line and cuts will be slower with the home made version
Rail square’s take speed to whole new level
I bought the wen cordless plunge and track to break down sheet goods at the lumber center and to substitute for a table saw due to space constraints and I love it. Jointing with it is really good for my needs too.
Valid points. But you can’t compare a cheap supermarket plunge saw against a decent quality circular saw. Mainly because the dust extraction on the high end plunge saws is very good and especially if you have a decent extractor. But I feel that having both is the ideal
Scenario. Only thing I would slightly disagree with is that you can easily use a plunge saw on a post or other non sheet good material. So both are interchangeable. Love the vids and keep up the great work. 👍👍
I love watching your channel it's a proper DIY channel that focuses on everyday people like myself and others. Down to earth advice.
I think a more relevent comparison is not a plunge saw vs a circular saw, but a plunge saw vs a table saw, because of the types of work they do. They deliver Quality of cut, precision, and better dust collection, and are more suited to workshop use, rather than on site, like a circular saw or a demo saw or grinder, or even a chainsaw.
For a DIY-er, a plunge saw is definity THE alternative to a tablesaw, especially for safety.
That's a good point
I bought the biscuitjoiner from Lidl just to see how it worked. All the dust was drawn into the cavity where the blade sits and after 20-25 joints it didn’t start at all. Cleaned it and took it back for a refund. So the dust buildup is not isolated to the plungesaw. Bought the Makita instead and never looked back 😊 I will eventually buy the plungesaw from Makita as well. I guess that Lidl’s tools will work for most of their customers, but if I’m in the field I rely on things to work 10 times out of 10. Thanks for a nice presentation
I think the advantage of the aluminium track over a home made track is that it's much easier to clamp and because of the rubber grips it doesn't need clamping!
Thanks for that chief , you have just answered a question that has been on my mind for a while ...... I need to fit a bigger piece of glass in an interior door to let more natural light in . I thought a plunge saw might do a better job than my circular, however what I actually need is to make a template to the required size and use a plunge router , setting the depth to leave a rebate for the new glass unit to sit on .
Thank you once again , all the best 👊
A tracksaw is probably one of my top 5 tools I wish I had gotten years sooner. I went with a festool mainly for the dust extraction; with a ct midi and 36mm hose, it gets most of the dust except for a small amount at the end of the cut.
I also started with a corded Dewalt as the battery version was the 54 v kit and twice the price but since buying the corded version and using it so much i found it a pain in the backside reverting back to corded so invested in the 54 v kit which came with two 6ah batteries and at the time they had an offer on of a free 9ah 54 v battery with the kit so now it sits with all my cordless kit...i only keep the corded versions of my kit as emergency back up but most havent bedn used for 5 years plus
Constantly stopping the saw to adjust the pain in the a**e dust hose will result in more obvious saw marks and a potential kickback I have found. Other times the power cable can snag on the workbench. You may find it a bit easier and safer to operate your corded tools if you can rig the extraction hose and power cords to come down from the ceiling.
If only Lidl could be persuaded to stock their plunge saw more regularly. I bought an Erbauer from Screwfix it’s bigger than the park side and the standard Makita or Festool. It was £150. I have used it a lot, I have done a van conversion, and built a large shed plus a few smaller projects. The first one developed a problem and Screwfix replaced it on the spot but Lidl do the same usually. Had the Lidl one been available when I needed it, that’s the one I would have bought as it has a longer 3 year warranty. The erbauer works fine but it has a couple of really annoying features you have to turn a spring loaded knob to fully locate it on the track and it’s awkwardly placed. I haven’t but a lot of users remove it. It’s also heavy. The Lidl saw probably does the same job but you might have to buy an extra length of track and connector which then makes it a £115 or £120 saw. If you are doing a big project, such as a large van, a kitchen or lots of cupboards I’d buy a Makita or Festool, they are just better, easier to use, better dust extraction, better blades, and you can always sell them on. If I sold the erbauer I doubt I’d get £70 back but o Makita or Festool would sell quickly and I doubt you would lose even a £100.
Plunge saws are game changing 👍
Had one of the parkside ones for roughwork and its actually not bad, had a dewalt for a few years now and its definitely leagues above but i think the parksides actually fine for home diy
Edit, my only advice for the parkside is straight away buy a better blade, the one that comes with them is shite 😂
I bought one of these on Peter's recommendation and reckon it is value for money. However, it will not accept Stanton Dog Locks so I've had to make my own and screw through the track to attach them
Good to see you as always taking your safety seriously by using ear protection and using the dust extraction. It is so easy when doing DIY to forget to use the PPE we may be using in our work places
Very useful. I have had the Aldi version sitting in a cupboard for over a year. I may just get it out and give it a go now! Thank you.
I bought the MacAllister plunge saw after watching Peter's video, but got it for the same price as the Parkside one. I use it often in place of the table saw, but it really showed its usefulness when cutting doors around the house. Lovely clean cuts.
Good video Stuart. I own the Titan entry level plunge saw and the rail comes with two connectors so it can be joined at the front and back, it also has good quality rubber. Definitely a good choice for anyone wanting to spend a little more. Myself I always use offcuts at both ends and then use the rail clamps to lock everything down, just to ensure it won't shift.
Absolutely love your video's, so informative! I have not long bought this plunge saw and after watching your detailed video I now feel I'm ready to take the plunge at trying it! Thank you so much! Xx
The blade retracts so no one can lose a finger.... Hold my beer! 🤣🤣🤣 Great basic video describing an inexpensive plunge saw.
I went years without a plunge saw, mainly using a mini circular saw to cut sheet material. I can’t imagine cutting sheet material without one now!
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I bridged the gap with buying a rail compatible circural saw. Very very useful when I often buy live edge slabs or need precise cuts for OSB boards for shelves and etc…
Half way through this vid the first I’ve seen on this channel and it’s detail is fantastic easily the best I’ve seen, instant subscribe 👏👏
Great video. I bought this plunge saw a couple of years ago and use it on most of my DIY projects. I'm someone that struggles with cutting straight or square. This has helped me no end. This year I'm upgrading to the the green brand as I'm just wanting a little more from a saw like this. This one will be getting retired or moth balled.
Im look forward to seeing yours become a go to tool on the channel.