Stuart, thank you for this video. I bought the same saw three years ago and it is still boxed as I did not have the confidence to use it. Your video has given me the confidence to open the box, assemble the saw and use it safely.
Stuart, I’m pleased you spoke at length re the dangers of kick back. If you multiply the circumference of the blade by the rpm you’ll get the speed of each of those blade teeth. You can then convert that speed to mph. You’ll then realise that each tooth moves literally, close to 100 mph. If one of those teeth at the back of the blade, which of course is about to travel towards you, catch the edge of the wood pinched tight between it and the fence it will shoot that wood back towards you close to 100 mph. This is way too fast for anyone to react and can cause such a horrible instantaneous injury you’ll wished you had never set eyes on a table saw. It only needs to happen once! This is in addition to other dangers like inadvertently cutting off a finger or being tempted to use the saw without the blade guard. For me I’d rather have full control with a much safer track saw and MFT even if it takes a few minutes longer. Working toward keeping out of hospital always seemed a good idea to me!
Stu I love your videos and this is a great introduction to folk considering stepping into the world of table saws. I have the same saw and used it for three years now. Would you consider doing a follow up video with additional tips? It might be worth including the auxiliary fence and when it should be used. My train of thought is for machined sheet goods like you used in this video then the full length fence is fine, but I use the auxiliary fence up to half way along the blade for any timber products as it helps to alleviate the pinch effect you referenced in the kickback section. Keep up the great work, really looking forward to seeing what becomes of the additional garden land you bought 😀😀👍👍
Hi I really enjoy your videos and watch regularly but, can I just say.... Blade height! I've always been told and understood that you should only have 1 saw tooth tip exposed eg 5mm above the thickness of the material, this also helps eliminate kick back. Adjusting the riving knife height according to hold the blade guard.
A problem with this saw is the blade guard forces the minimum blade height to be about where it's set to in the video. It pivots on a bolt right at the back and actually covers about 15mm below the bolt point.
@@DeafMaker maybe (I hope!) they've changed the design of the guard for newer models but on mine the position of the pivot point meant that even with the riving knife in its highest position the blade had to have a minimum of about 30mm exposed before I could have 9mm MDF able to pass under both the front and back of the guard without catching on one or the other.
Just a tip! You may notice that if you use the right side extending table (the narrow one) the LHS guide (the one with the measuring rule) is longer than the right hand side - the only stop for the RHS is the plastic bung inside the extrusion which pulls out (tried adhesive - but not good) & does not prevent pulling the extending part too far and out of the roller guides of the fixed table! There is no proper fixed stop. A small piece of 6mm alumimium was cut out fit inside the extrusion (about 25mm sq) . A tapped hole in the stop piece allows a 5mm machine screw to be inserted through the extrusion - works great!
Thanks for your work making this video. I just wanna say: please don´t wear gloves while working with rotating tools like saws, routers or a drillpress. If the tool grabs on your glove, your hand will end up in the sawblade or drill. It´s just not worth loosing a finger or more. :)
I was just thinking the exact same thing. I wear gloves when handling timber but always take them off if using power tools with rotating cutters. The extra "protection" turns into a bigger risk.
Yet another quality and highly informative video. I bought my (very cheap, like cheeeeeeeeaaaaaaap) table saw at the beginning the pandemic and then wood prices went throught the damn roof so I haven't used it yet. Your video has given me a very good idea of what I am in for. Cheers Stu.
I tend to watch 'safety & the tablesaw' videos whenever I spot one. I know all the pros & cons by now, BUT 'knowing isn't doing!' - A refresher always serves as a warning to NEVER get complacent about this [or any other] piece of equipment. We all dream of glorious SawStop machines; [not forgetting the replacement of the whole carriage section, should the dang thing get triggered] but then have to settle for more reasonably priced equipment. Knowing the risks AND remembering them is all we have, and hopefully, all our fingers & thumbs. Even the great DiResta made a mistake once!
Thank you for unbiased content. I did tike a second take when you were tightening up the blade though. If there was to be a slip I shudder to think of the potential injury you could receive. Might be an idea to cover the top of the blade. Keep up the fine content.
Loved the video and all the info that you went through, so much so that I bought the saw. Well I hot the 5s. I have to say that I found the assembly instructions woeful and the figure drawings in them inaccurate. It took me just over 2 hours to get the leg assembly complete. Now that it is, I have to say that I'm very impressed with it and the folding mechanism.
I've had this model of Saw for over 2 years, it's ok for what it is, I changed the blade for a better quality one. The design of the guard/extractor, while being very good at extracting dust etc, does not allow you to put the saw blade down far enough to maintain a safe working blade height when cutting thin material. Also the knob for adjusting/removing the guard is on the right hand side which hits the fence when cutting narrow strips. The plastic pad surrounding the blade is very thin and bends slightly when cutting certain widths. Despite these drawbacks I would buy it again though, it folds away into a small size and is powerful enough for most jobs around the home, I cut 100mm Oak Newel posts with it for example. Watch out when you start it up though, since small pieces of wood that drop to the bottom of the plastic Saw Well, will move when you fold the machine up, then on start up they are fired out of the machine at high speed. It's a Table Saw, needs to be treated with respect every time you use it.
I own this particular saw and have used it for the passed two years, and for the price i think it's one of the best table saws out there, my only gripe with it, and this is just my opinion it should have an emergency stop paddle over the on/off switch, i have luckily found a chap that makes one for this model and it is brilliant, a small thing but it could save you from serious injury or worse.I also own the Evolution circular saw which again for the price is superb.
I own it too and really wish it had an emergency stop paddle - nearly had a serious incident last week with it. May I ask where you found your emergency stop paddle?
I have always been told never to stand directly behind the blade, that way, if you do get kick back, there is a chance that the flying projectile won't actually hit you but embed itself in the workshop wall instead. That and, as everybody else has said- Blade Height!
What you need to do is be in a position to push straight into the blade, akin to a hand saw. Pushing from off line is something done when you have mastered things.
Thank you for the video, great table saw, but I think I noticed the saw is a bit wobbly on the stand. I would also recommend not wearing gloves when using any kind of circular saw, it is considered dangerous.
I always doubt reviews when the item reviewed is gifted by the company that makes it. I think an honest and trustworthy review must be completely independent.
The achilles heal of most table saws is the quality/rigidity of the fence ..... you didn't really cover this ... please explain in more detail.You did explain how timber could be 'grabbed' but this is very much a function of how good the 'fence' system is in locking parallel to the direction of cut. Your videos are great, but this point is fundamental to table saw operation, please review this point.
Absolutely 100% agree, the fences on the cheap saws are terrible, very hard to set up straight if it doesn't clamp at both ends and annoyingly awkward to set the cut measurements
Had this saw for a number of years but upgraded recently to a small cabinet saw. It was good enough for carpentry work but I struggled to get it to maintain accuracy for any kind of furniture joinery, just too much slop overall. Also frustrated the mitre slots weren't standard.
@@DeafMaker The 8” saw from Axminster. I’m not cutting big pieces of timber so it works well for me. Solid table and decent fence and enough power for my needs. Also very good dust collection which was another of my beefs with the Evolution saw.
HI WHAT A,BRILLIANT VIDEO 📹 THANKS FOR SHARING THAT INFORMATION VERY WELL EXPLAINED THANKS FOR SHARING THAT INFORMATION I JUST GOT A TITAN TABLE SAW SHE GAVE ME ONE LIKE YOU HAVE SHE GOT THEM MIXED UP SO WOULD YOU RECOMMEND DUST MASK ALL THE TIME WHEN USING THE SAW AND EAR PROTECTION AS WELL
It really matters where we put the push stick since putting it at wrong place will cause the piece to move side ways as it moves forward. Also, there are push blocks. I wish more detail would be covered in some video about this tool.
Good video this, most of us have been there with full sheets of ply, no guard, trying to cut one in half 🤢two man job but still very very dangerous. Take no prisoners these saws 👍🏻 Thing is, as long as you only have the blade height set just enough to cut you’ve far more control and less chances of losing a fingertip. 👉🏻☝🏻👈🏻
Great video and info but the only thing I was always taught was never to wear gloves when using a table saw or actually most workshop machinery or saws that spin.
On construction sites it’s sometimes called the “Comp saw” since it was usually the leading cause of injury and workman’s compensation claims- at least as far as tool use goes.
At last! I wonder how often you felt like caving and just buying one haha! Now looking forward to videos of you making jigs and accessories for it. I love using the table saw, so versatile and easy to make fine adjustments with test cuts. Nothing fancy for my first, a Lumberjack TS254SE, works well enough for my current skill level. It came with a rather silly riving knife design though, protruding well above blade height and with a laser guide on top! What on earth were they thinking? I cut a replacement from scrap metal that aligns properly. First shop build was a skate to move the saw around (eventually I'll replace the legs with a cabinet base on castors), then a basic sled - the king of TS accessories, now working on a big auxiliary fence and extensions to support sheet goods, doors etc.
Hi could you please help me with advice on buying a table saw. I need a table saw that can be stored away as I will be working out side and the table saw will live in a 3/2 shed I was looking at either the black & decker 720 gp or the lumber jack with folding legs or the evolution 5/ s . What would you recommend please from Jason
Your blade is set much too high Stuart, the teeth at the top of the blade should just about protrude through the wood being cut. The setting you are using will increase the chances of kickback happening. A rough guide would be to have one full tooth protruding through the timber to be cut.
How would rate this table saw? I am thinking of investing in the same model you have but I'm not sure if the outlay would be a good a good investment at the moment.
Hello, any tips for sealing the MDF?. I know when I had some in my shed mildew growth took over as rain water seeped in. I brushed, bleached and sealed with pva and water but not good enough it seems.
Their "10% off if you shop direct" deal still leaves them about 10% *more* expensive than buying from other shops... what the hell, Evolution? How is it possibly more expensive for them to sell me the tools direct vs the price of the same tool elsewhere? £350 for this, £400 for the Bosch, or £440 for a DeWalt, it just doesn't seem like a contest tbh. I like Evolution for their Mitre saws, but honestly their prices are getting silly I think, their prices are comparable to the "contractor" grade tools when they're still selling hobbyist quality.
@@a5pin So they can sell to retailers at a discount (who then mark the price up for their own profit margin) and still make a profit despite there now being two profit margins on the product... but selling it directly with only one profit margin is impossible without a higher price? Who taught you maths?
@@audigex no you misunderstand, if they sold the product directly to the consumer for a cheaper price than the retailer sells to the consumer. The retailer would complain to the manufacturer as they are undercutting the channel through. So the manufacturer will usually ALWAYS price higher than retailers. If they weren't they wouldn't have any retailers, would they? They get around this by offering other value adds, like free blades etc. So the price is higher, but you might get something different or more value than you would at the retailer. Don't forget you would only buy one saw directly from the manufacturer, but the retailers buy in bulk of tens or hundreds.
@@a5pin Okay, so my point stands... their "discount" is pointless because they're still more expensive than buying elsewhere. The mechanism for that is irrelevant: I don't care about their commercial agreements with Screwfix or whoever, that's irrelevant to me - what matters to me is the fact that their "discounted" price is more expensive than their competitors, even sometimes for a better product
@@audigex you clearly don't work in commerce. Different retailers will discount to different levels, and make different margins. Complaining is the same as walking into Halfords and paying 20% more for anything they sell compared to another shop. Some people just don't care, they see a 10% discount and buy. Ever bought a Domino's pizza lol £20 for one Pizza or £30 for two. Still, a tenner more than a Pizza should be. It's part of most company's marketing strategies.
I bought the Evolution R255 PTS from screwfix which is virtually the same saw and I’m really pleased with it and I found a guy on ETSY who 3D prints zero clearance plates for these saws and they fit perfectly.
The only feature of the Evolution that's nice is the slider - but it has a crap fence, and doesn't accept a dado stack. Having an "only use the blade model it comes with" and a giant gap in the cheapo insert are also big red flags, especially with their claim it's a universal saw for metal cutting as well. Skil makes a far better saw that costs less and doesn't have the above flaws, though I'll admit that the dado's less of a concern in europe where they're banned. I'll note to that there is no "can" on the miter guage. Run the material against the fence, or with the miter guage, or another fixture like a crosscut sled. Never freehand cut. NEVER WEAR GLOVES! If your gloved hand goes in the fabric will be caught by the blade and potentially cause a far worse injury.
Holy moly you can’t put MDF outside in the rain! Even if you weatherproof it by the time you’ve finished it’d’ve been cheaper & easier to use a different material.
Of course you can. I got it free from my local B&Q, I'll use it over the summer and it will go on the bonfire after that. Would you prefer me to spend £100 on a sheet of marine ply?
Hi @Proper DIY, I've been looking at buying this model table saw for a while. Would you recommend it for a novice? I was keen as the fence is meant to remain square without much fuss. Given the price point, this is attractive. In your experience, is it accurate? TIA, L.P.
Are you sure that's as high as the riving knife goes? Looks like it should be lifted a bit still or that the attachment for the guard is way too low. Not only do you have to set your blade way too high for clean and safe cuts now, but you also use a lot of cutting height.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Why don’t manufacturer’s supply a zero tolerance plate ,would only costs a few pounds more. I have a Dewalt 745 had to make my own zero tolerance plate .
Can this model deal with ripping lengths of 8b4 18mm ply? It looked perhaps a little on the small side from the video. Regardless, I struggle just lifting and manoeuvring these sheets, let alone the dangers of then trying to persuade it through a portable table saw! Will probably stick to the trusty old superlength 2.8m evolution track and circular saw.
I wouldn't do this. this saw weights around 30kg with the stand. full sheet of birch ply is around 28kg. You would push the saw with the ply itself. unless you build a table around the saw to support the weight. The best way is to cut full sheet of ply into smaller pieces with a track saw and then use a table saw to cut that mateial to your final dimensions.
Those wheels look absolutely toy-like. And it seems to be wobbly. But I guess that's the way with jobsite table saws. My ridgid does that also. But I just got a Delta contractor saw, so problem solved! Good video. I subscribed.
I have the Screwfix version of this saw. It’s a lovely accurate & quiet machine. A bit of fettling & it’s a serious bit of kit. That blade guard, though. Why in the hell is the securing bolt’s head on the fence side of the blade guard? Any cut narrower than 40mm (the width of 2 fingers *DANGER ZONE*), you have to take the guard off. And, if you’re cutting thin material, the riving knife height is slow & difficult to adjust, so the front of the blade guard doesn’t pop up like it did on Ian around 8:50 in the video. (You need to raise the riving knife up, so the front of the guard stays on the table). Only had it a week, pleased enough, but I’m well experienced with table saws.
nooooooooooooooo....... buy the DeWalt table saw, the one you got looks soooooo plastic and wobbly. LOL And blade height blade height blade height but yes a table saw is a great tool to have. Go for the DeWalt dwe7485.
Interesting - thanks. No disrespect intended but fifty odd years ago, I was a wood machinist and your saw looks like a toy to me. I know it isn't and it would happily take your hand off if you let it, but the smallest sawbench I worked on was probably three times the size of yours.
The stand seemed very wobbly which would be a concern. If you want more info on table saw safety tips I recommend ruclips.net/video/fEm1DjAKZKY/видео.html& ab_channel=StumpyNubs
James is the best, nobody else explains and demonstrates so clearly. If I could only have one woodworking educational resource, it would be Stumpy Nubs.
I'm of the opinion that gloves are more dangerous than helpful. If that blade catches the gloves, it can drag your hand into the blade instead of cutting off a hunk of flesh leaving the rest of your hand intact. Also, in the horrible event that you should get cut, you don't want the medics to have to remove your glove from the mangled hand. But, I do understand the idea "sticky" gloves, but I think you are more likely to have the gloves snag on something than your hand slip. You shouldn't be pushing in such a way that, should your hand slip, it would hit the blade. Also, in a morbid way, if the blade catches the corner of your hand, it will cut it off, but will not drag your hand into the blad like it would if it catches a glove.
One of the best additions to this particular saw, was a soft start module. See the youtube channel "Casual DIY" for instructions and a link to the module..
I had this saw for a year and mine was just terrible. Fell out of square after pretty much every cut, because it kicks like a donkey when you start it up. The chatter was awful, even when cutting thin sheet materials, and the non-standard mitre slots are a real niggle too. Let's not even mention that the arbour is 25.4mm meaning you either need reducer rings for most blade brands (Saxton do a line with the right sized hole though) or are stuck with the expensive evolution ones. The worst thing is, this saw was only £220 when I bought mine just over a year ago, evolution have jacked it nip to £350 now! After all that, just want to say this was a great video & I'm really enjoying working my way through your others. Edited to add: I would never wear gloves when using power tools, I'd rather lose a finger than an arm.
Thanks for this. Useful reminder of my experience with Evolution gear after I began to soften towards this. Their quality control must be all over the place such that lucky owners swear by them while unlucky folk like you and me swear at them. They told me to return mine as not fixable the night after I bought it and found I couldn't even set it up (assembly fault at factory). Unused. Screwfix Erbauer similar
Another interesting video. I’ve been thinking of getting a table saw and already have a few Evolution tools - they seem quite good, although I note the motors are often physically larger than other makes, which can be an issue, say for a circular saw. I am not sure you have set the blade correctly in your video. My understanding has always been that the blade should be set as low as possible in these things. Also, I would not myself wear gloves when operating most types of power tools. I served an apprenticeship as a toolmaker back in the 1970s (using lathes, millers, shapers, surface grinders, etc) and things like gloves, loose clothing, long hair and even jewellery were thought hazardous.
Avoid it, look for one with a rack and pinion fence like Skil's in that price range instead. And you're right about blade height, you should set it so that the tooth at the apex is just above the height of the workpiece.
Late to the party. Gloves & rotating machinery is an absolute no-go. And the blade is too high out. This is not a beginners guide, this is a dangerous advert.
Must say that the supplied instructions were next to useless for the build of the folding stand. However, I found an Evolution RUclips video which made it dead easy. Why they don’t just identify the link on the front of the instructions. If you’ve an engineering degree or you’re an astronaut you may not need the video 😂
Being uses these for YEARS never had a issue Rage 5 is amazing i pretty much have the set of Evo there blades are just perfection with everything it can cut great video
Nice informative video. Kick-back is serious, the wood is propelled at a goodly rate of knots and can do soft tissue damage or worse - I have the scar to prove it. Conventional wisdom says not to use any gloves when operating saws and the like as they can get caught and draw the hand into the blade, they also give a false sense of security and you lose tactile feedback that can warn you of any problem. Many woodworkers have the fence slightly angled away from the blade and not parallel, this prevents it sticking for whatever reason. It is recommend that the blade height should set so that the bottom of the gullet is just exposed above the wood - usually the manufacturer specifies the height as that; of course it depends on other factors too, such as material and rake of the blade. Generally, the lower the blade the less damage your hand will experience. I noted the saw rocked on its stand quite a bit, might be worth making some sort of stabilising gizmo - a concrete block or two on the cross rail might do it. I think probably the most important thing to do when using machinery is to be present all the time, and not let your mind wander to the football or whatever - that is when accidents happen. Thanks for sharing.
I bought a table saw out of Lidl - I'm a novice DIY'er... having done so though can't believe a tool of this ferocity can just be picked up by anyone for 80 odd quid.... I'm genuinely too scared to use it... aside from the kick back risk that big fast spinny blade right infront of you is terrifying... keep having visions of it coming off and going right through me... anyway, said table saw is now a table in the garage that happens to have a saw attached and is used to store drills on top of lol
very nice bit of kit. However, as someone who is also from the UK, I understand the troubles going on. I think it high time we start introducing something along the lines of Cost's 14p to run per min, or something to that effect. Money is tight. I need to know where my money is really going. haha
![State of Play | September 24, 2024 [ENGLISH]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fVs0suPHAX8/mqdefault.jpg)
Get that blade height just above the thickness of the material being cut! Reduces the risk of kick back considerably…
Agreed, you can raise the height of the knife
Took the words ut of my mouth. I was thinking that straight away
Thought exactly the same as soon as I see the first cut. A lot safe to have the blade a mm or two above the thickness of the wood.
Yep. Get that blade down!
Do you need to check the blade is at 90 degrees like on a mitre saw?
The Promo Code still works on top of their offer in 2024. Fantastic thank you.
Perfect timing, been watching your videos from the start. Just had my first table saw delivered today.
Stuart, thank you for this video. I bought the same saw three years ago and it is still boxed as I did not have the confidence to use it. Your video has given me the confidence to open the box, assemble the saw and use it safely.
Stuart, I’m pleased you spoke at length re the dangers of kick back. If you multiply the circumference of the blade by the rpm you’ll get the speed of each of those blade teeth. You can then convert that speed to mph. You’ll then realise that each tooth moves literally, close to 100 mph. If one of those teeth at the back of the blade, which of course is about to travel towards you, catch the edge of the wood pinched tight between it and the fence it will shoot that wood back towards you close to 100 mph. This is way too fast for anyone to react and can cause such a horrible instantaneous injury you’ll wished you had never set eyes on a table saw. It only needs to happen once! This is in addition to other dangers like inadvertently cutting off a finger or being tempted to use the saw without the blade guard. For me I’d rather have full control with a much safer track saw and MFT even if it takes a few minutes longer. Working toward keeping out of hospital always seemed a good idea to me!
To reduce the chance of kickback, the blade should only be just slightly higher than the stock. That way you are reducing the amount of friction also.
Stu I love your videos and this is a great introduction to folk considering stepping into the world of table saws. I have the same saw and used it for three years now. Would you consider doing a follow up video with additional tips? It might be worth including the auxiliary fence and when it should be used. My train of thought is for machined sheet goods like you used in this video then the full length fence is fine, but I use the auxiliary fence up to half way along the blade for any timber products as it helps to alleviate the pinch effect you referenced in the kickback section. Keep up the great work, really looking forward to seeing what becomes of the additional garden land you bought 😀😀👍👍
Hi I really enjoy your videos and watch regularly but, can I just say.... Blade height! I've always been told and understood that you should only have 1 saw tooth tip exposed eg 5mm above the thickness of the material, this also helps eliminate kick back. Adjusting the riving knife height according to hold the blade guard.
A problem with this saw is the blade guard forces the minimum blade height to be about where it's set to in the video. It pivots on a bolt right at the back and actually covers about 15mm below the bolt point.
@@DuceDesigns ah fair enough, that makes sense, just thought I would mention it just incase.
@@DuceDesigns you can actually raise the height of the knife, the blade doesn't stick up too high.
@@DeafMaker maybe (I hope!) they've changed the design of the guard for newer models but on mine the position of the pivot point meant that even with the riving knife in its highest position the blade had to have a minimum of about 30mm exposed before I could have 9mm MDF able to pass under both the front and back of the guard without catching on one or the other.
good tip about not using the mitre sled and fence together, cheers for that
Just a tip! You may notice that if you use the right side extending table (the narrow one) the LHS guide (the one with the measuring rule) is longer than the right hand side - the only stop for the RHS is the plastic bung inside the extrusion which pulls out (tried adhesive - but not good) & does not prevent pulling the extending part too far and out of the roller guides of the fixed table! There is no proper fixed stop. A small piece of 6mm alumimium was cut out fit inside the extrusion (about 25mm sq) . A tapped hole in the stop piece allows a 5mm machine screw to be inserted through the extrusion - works great!
Thanks for your work making this video. I just wanna say: please don´t wear gloves while working with rotating tools like saws, routers or a drillpress. If the tool grabs on your glove, your hand will end up in the sawblade or drill. It´s just not worth loosing a finger or more. :)
Agree, you'll rather have a shallow cut in your finger than get the glove sucked in and your entire finger or hand cut off.
I often see this with youtubers, it's unbelievably daft!
I was just thinking the exact same thing. I wear gloves when handling timber but always take them off if using power tools with rotating cutters. The extra "protection" turns into a bigger risk.
I fully agree.
Agree never wear gloves, long sleeves, anything can catch the blade
Yet another quality and highly informative video. I bought my (very cheap, like cheeeeeeeeaaaaaaap) table saw at the beginning the pandemic and then wood prices went throught the damn roof so I haven't used it yet. Your video has given me a very good idea of what I am in for. Cheers Stu.
I tend to watch 'safety & the tablesaw' videos whenever I spot one. I know all the pros & cons by now, BUT 'knowing isn't doing!' - A refresher always serves as a warning to NEVER get complacent about this [or any other] piece of equipment.
We all dream of glorious SawStop machines; [not forgetting the replacement of the whole carriage section, should the dang thing get triggered] but then have to settle for more reasonably priced equipment. Knowing the risks AND remembering them is all we have, and hopefully, all our fingers & thumbs. Even the great DiResta made a mistake once!
Thank you for unbiased content. I did tike a second take when you were tightening up the blade though. If there was to be a slip I shudder to think of the potential injury you could receive. Might be an idea to cover the top of the blade.
Keep up the fine content.
Yeah, he might get a cut on his finger, dunno how he will recover from that
I love your explanations. I don’t know why, but I just get it more.
Loved the video and all the info that you went through, so much so that I bought the saw. Well I hot the 5s. I have to say that I found the assembly instructions woeful and the figure drawings in them inaccurate. It took me just over 2 hours to get the leg assembly complete. Now that it is, I have to say that I'm very impressed with it and the folding mechanism.
Have to say the same about the assembly... Also the saw on the stand doesn't go through a standard width door so it has to go through sideways
Excellent video. Thanks.
I've had this model of Saw for over 2 years, it's ok for what it is, I changed the blade for a better quality one. The design of the guard/extractor, while being very good at extracting dust etc, does not allow you to put the saw blade down far enough to maintain a safe working blade height when cutting thin material. Also the knob for adjusting/removing the guard is on the right hand side which hits the fence when cutting narrow strips. The plastic pad surrounding the blade is very thin and bends slightly when cutting certain widths. Despite these drawbacks I would buy it again though, it folds away into a small size and is powerful enough for most jobs around the home, I cut 100mm Oak Newel posts with it for example.
Watch out when you start it up though, since small pieces of wood that drop to the bottom of the plastic Saw Well, will move when you fold the machine up, then on start up they are fired out of the machine at high speed.
It's a Table Saw, needs to be treated with respect every time you use it.
Long awaited comment Stuart, but I got my own Evolution Rage 5s today. Just watching your safety tips again then go out and put it together.
I own this particular saw and have used it for the passed two years, and for the price i think it's one of the best table saws out there, my only gripe with it, and this is just my opinion it should have an emergency stop paddle over the on/off switch, i have luckily found a chap that makes one for this model and it is brilliant, a small thing but it could save you from serious injury or worse.I also own the Evolution circular saw which again for the price is superb.
Totally agree, I have this table saw also and have the same retro fit on/off switch. Great work horse entry level saw.
I own it too and really wish it had an emergency stop paddle - nearly had a serious incident last week with it. May I ask where you found your emergency stop paddle?
@@richarddixon1401 Sent you a link.
Hi just unboxed this saw . Would it be possible to send the link for the emergency stop paddle please. Many thanks in advance 👍
I have always been told never to stand directly behind the blade, that way, if you do get kick back, there is a chance that the flying projectile won't actually hit you but embed itself in the workshop wall instead.
That and, as everybody else has said- Blade Height!
What you need to do is be in a position to push straight into the blade, akin to a hand saw. Pushing from off line is something done when you have mastered things.
If your ripping a small piece of wood you can't help but stand behind the blade.
Thank you for the video, great table saw, but I think I noticed the saw is a bit wobbly on the stand. I would also recommend not wearing gloves when using any kind of circular saw, it is considered dangerous.
I always doubt reviews when the item reviewed is gifted by the company that makes it. I think an honest and trustworthy review must be completely independent.
That was very fun to watch! Thank you very much!
Standard MDF for outdoor use?
That won't last very long I suppose.
The achilles heal of most table saws is the quality/rigidity of the fence ..... you didn't really cover this ... please explain in more detail.You did explain how timber could be 'grabbed' but this is very much a function of how good the 'fence' system is in locking parallel to the direction of cut. Your videos are great, but this point is fundamental to table saw operation, please review this point.
Absolutely 100% agree, the fences on the cheap saws are terrible, very hard to set up straight if it doesn't clamp at both ends and annoyingly awkward to set the cut measurements
Had this saw for a number of years but upgraded recently to a small cabinet saw. It was good enough for carpentry work but I struggled to get it to maintain accuracy for any kind of furniture joinery, just too much slop overall. Also frustrated the mitre slots weren't standard.
feather board can help. i have the dewalt and it seems pretty accurate for me. also use good blades, freud etc make a huge difference
What saw did you get?
@@DeafMaker The 8” saw from Axminster. I’m not cutting big pieces of timber so it works well for me. Solid table and decent fence and enough power for my needs. Also very good dust collection which was another of my beefs with the Evolution saw.
Top tip about fences! Did not know that!!
HI WHAT A,BRILLIANT VIDEO 📹 THANKS FOR SHARING THAT INFORMATION VERY WELL EXPLAINED THANKS FOR SHARING THAT INFORMATION I JUST GOT A TITAN TABLE SAW SHE GAVE ME ONE LIKE YOU HAVE SHE GOT THEM MIXED UP SO WOULD YOU RECOMMEND DUST MASK ALL THE TIME WHEN USING THE SAW AND EAR PROTECTION AS WELL
Learned a lot. Thank you
It really matters where we put the push stick since putting it at wrong place will cause the piece to move side ways as it moves forward. Also, there are push blocks. I wish more detail would be covered in some video about this tool.
I knew nothing about table saws but now I do. An extremely useful high quality video. Keep them coming.
Good video this, most of us have been there with full sheets of ply, no guard, trying to cut one in half 🤢two man job but still very very dangerous. Take no prisoners these saws 👍🏻 Thing is, as long as you only have the blade height set just enough to cut you’ve far more control and less chances of losing a fingertip. 👉🏻☝🏻👈🏻
mdf and moist place? Will it last a week?
Great video and info but the only thing I was always taught was never to wear gloves when using a table saw or actually most workshop machinery or saws that spin.
Have exact same saw,locking the fence and keeping it parallel with the blade can be a bit of an issue
yeah, my dewalt has rack and pinion and seems worth the added cost as the fence is brilliant.
should your saw blade be set lower for that thickness board?
In Canada/USA we call this style of saw a "job site saw" On it's own stand with wheels and can be easily brought to the job site. Very handy.
On construction sites it’s sometimes called the “Comp saw” since it was usually the leading cause of injury and workman’s compensation claims- at least as far as tool use goes.
Is it suitable to fit a parquet floor? Thank you 😊
Thanks for the video, very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this Stuart, just about to buy this saw. Just FYI, your code only gives 5% now! Evolution have done you in.
Hi have you got a video on circular saws or would it be better for me to but a small electric saw to make a few things for the garden?
Thank you, very good video!!!!
At last! I wonder how often you felt like caving and just buying one haha! Now looking forward to videos of you making jigs and accessories for it. I love using the table saw, so versatile and easy to make fine adjustments with test cuts. Nothing fancy for my first, a Lumberjack TS254SE, works well enough for my current skill level. It came with a rather silly riving knife design though, protruding well above blade height and with a laser guide on top! What on earth were they thinking? I cut a replacement from scrap metal that aligns properly. First shop build was a skate to move the saw around (eventually I'll replace the legs with a cabinet base on castors), then a basic sled - the king of TS accessories, now working on a big auxiliary fence and extensions to support sheet goods, doors etc.
Hi could you please help me with advice on buying a table saw. I need a table saw that can be stored away as I will be working out side and the table saw will live in a 3/2 shed I was looking at either the black & decker 720 gp or the lumber jack with folding legs or the evolution 5/ s . What would you recommend please from Jason
Good video Stuart. I’ve even ordered some DEKTON ultimate comfort green gloves so I can pretend I’m as good at DIY as you. I wish!! 😂😂
Do you use the small metal fence attachment that comes with the saw?
Your blade is set much too high Stuart, the teeth at the top of the blade should just about protrude through the wood being cut. The setting you are using will increase the chances of kickback happening. A rough guide would be to have one full tooth protruding through the timber to be cut.
Yet another informative video, very easy to understand an if followed makes a table a good safe addition to anyones tool kit. 👍🏻
Very nice, thanks
I would have checked the blade alignment to the slots in the table top first, then lined the fence up to those too.
Hi Stuart, I m looking for a Sliding Mitre Saw, the motor is on its way out, ant recommendations- 240v
How would rate this table saw? I am thinking of investing in the same model you have but I'm not sure if the outlay would be a good a good investment at the moment.
Hello, any tips for sealing the MDF?. I know when I had some in my shed mildew growth took over as rain water seeped in. I brushed, bleached and sealed with pva and water but not good enough it seems.
Surprized that you changed the blade without safety gloves on.
Great video and lots of helpful information which will help with a possible future purchase. Thanks.
Great video! Portable finger table. 😬
Their "10% off if you shop direct" deal still leaves them about 10% *more* expensive than buying from other shops... what the hell, Evolution? How is it possibly more expensive for them to sell me the tools direct vs the price of the same tool elsewhere?
£350 for this, £400 for the Bosch, or £440 for a DeWalt, it just doesn't seem like a contest tbh. I like Evolution for their Mitre saws, but honestly their prices are getting silly I think, their prices are comparable to the "contractor" grade tools when they're still selling hobbyist quality.
This is the way channel works mate, they can't sell cheaper than the retailers who buy their stock at discount. Why would they?
@@a5pin So they can sell to retailers at a discount (who then mark the price up for their own profit margin) and still make a profit despite there now being two profit margins on the product... but selling it directly with only one profit margin is impossible without a higher price? Who taught you maths?
@@audigex no you misunderstand, if they sold the product directly to the consumer for a cheaper price than the retailer sells to the consumer. The retailer would complain to the manufacturer as they are undercutting the channel through. So the manufacturer will usually ALWAYS price higher than retailers. If they weren't they wouldn't have any retailers, would they? They get around this by offering other value adds, like free blades etc. So the price is higher, but you might get something different or more value than you would at the retailer.
Don't forget you would only buy one saw directly from the manufacturer, but the retailers buy in bulk of tens or hundreds.
@@a5pin Okay, so my point stands... their "discount" is pointless because they're still more expensive than buying elsewhere.
The mechanism for that is irrelevant: I don't care about their commercial agreements with Screwfix or whoever, that's irrelevant to me - what matters to me is the fact that their "discounted" price is more expensive than their competitors, even sometimes for a better product
@@audigex you clearly don't work in commerce. Different retailers will discount to different levels, and make different margins. Complaining is the same as walking into Halfords and paying 20% more for anything they sell compared to another shop. Some people just don't care, they see a 10% discount and buy. Ever bought a Domino's pizza lol £20 for one Pizza or £30 for two. Still, a tenner more than a Pizza should be.
It's part of most company's marketing strategies.
Not even watched yet but I am gonna say 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 to the new table saw, been a long time coming... whoop whoop 😉
Thank you Simon!
Very useful video :)
I bought the Evolution R255 PTS from screwfix which is virtually the same saw and I’m really pleased with it and I found a guy on ETSY who 3D prints zero clearance plates for these saws and they fit perfectly.
i bought that saw a while ago and found it really bad in every way nothing was square and the writhing knife was not in line with the blade avoid
The only feature of the Evolution that's nice is the slider - but it has a crap fence, and doesn't accept a dado stack. Having an "only use the blade model it comes with" and a giant gap in the cheapo insert are also big red flags, especially with their claim it's a universal saw for metal cutting as well.
Skil makes a far better saw that costs less and doesn't have the above flaws, though I'll admit that the dado's less of a concern in europe where they're banned.
I'll note to that there is no "can" on the miter guage. Run the material against the fence, or with the miter guage, or another fixture like a crosscut sled. Never freehand cut.
NEVER WEAR GLOVES! If your gloved hand goes in the fabric will be caught by the blade and potentially cause a far worse injury.
Holy moly you can’t put MDF outside in the rain!
Even if you weatherproof it by the time you’ve finished it’d’ve been cheaper & easier to use a different material.
Of course you can. I got it free from my local B&Q, I'll use it over the summer and it will go on the bonfire after that. Would you prefer me to spend £100 on a sheet of marine ply?
Hi @Proper DIY, I've been looking at buying this model table saw for a while. Would you recommend it for a novice? I was keen as the fence is meant to remain square without much fuss. Given the price point, this is attractive. In your experience, is it accurate? TIA, L.P.
Are you sure that's as high as the riving knife goes? Looks like it should be lifted a bit still or that the attachment for the guard is way too low. Not only do you have to set your blade way too high for clean and safe cuts now, but you also use a lot of cutting height.
That blade is way too high, you're only adding to the risk of kick back
Hey Evolution. I dont own a table saw!
I DONT OWN ONE!
thankyou
I saw you using a dust extractor, have you done a video on it??
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ruclips.net/user/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Why don’t manufacturer’s supply a zero tolerance plate ,would only costs a few pounds more. I have a Dewalt 745 had to make my own zero tolerance plate .
Can this model deal with ripping lengths of 8b4 18mm ply? It looked perhaps a little on the small side from the video. Regardless, I struggle just lifting and manoeuvring these sheets, let alone the dangers of then trying to persuade it through a portable table saw! Will probably stick to the trusty old superlength 2.8m evolution track and circular saw.
I wouldn't do this. this saw weights around 30kg with the stand. full sheet of birch ply is around 28kg. You would push the saw with the ply itself. unless you build a table around the saw to support the weight. The best way is to cut full sheet of ply into smaller pieces with a track saw and then use a table saw to cut that mateial to your final dimensions.
Those wheels look absolutely toy-like. And it seems to be wobbly. But I guess that's the way with jobsite table saws. My ridgid does that also. But I just got a Delta contractor saw, so problem solved! Good video. I subscribed.
I was shooting hoping you were going to review the aldi table top 8" saw I've just ordered 😏
❤
How do you stop the goggles from fogging up , I have yet to get goggles that don't fog up.
I have the Screwfix version of this saw. It’s a lovely accurate & quiet machine. A bit of fettling & it’s a serious bit of kit. That blade guard, though. Why in the hell is the securing bolt’s head on the fence side of the blade guard? Any cut narrower than 40mm (the width of 2 fingers *DANGER ZONE*), you have to take the guard off.
And, if you’re cutting thin material, the riving knife height is slow & difficult to adjust, so the front of the blade guard doesn’t pop up like it did on Ian around 8:50 in the video. (You need to raise the riving knife up, so the front of the guard stays on the table).
Only had it a week, pleased enough, but I’m well experienced with table saws.
nooooooooooooooo....... buy the DeWalt table saw, the one you got looks soooooo plastic and wobbly. LOL
And blade height blade height blade height but yes a table saw is a great tool to have.
Go for the DeWalt dwe7485.
Interesting - thanks. No disrespect intended but fifty odd years ago, I was a wood machinist and your saw looks like a toy to me. I know it isn't and it would happily take your hand off if you let it, but the smallest sawbench I worked on was probably three times the size of yours.
The stand seemed very wobbly which would be a concern. If you want more info on table saw safety tips I recommend ruclips.net/video/fEm1DjAKZKY/видео.html& ab_channel=StumpyNubs
James is the best, nobody else explains and demonstrates so clearly. If I could only have one woodworking educational resource, it would be Stumpy Nubs.
I'm of the opinion that gloves are more dangerous than helpful. If that blade catches the gloves, it can drag your hand into the blade instead of cutting off a hunk of flesh leaving the rest of your hand intact. Also, in the horrible event that you should get cut, you don't want the medics to have to remove your glove from the mangled hand. But, I do understand the idea "sticky" gloves, but I think you are more likely to have the gloves snag on something than your hand slip. You shouldn't be pushing in such a way that, should your hand slip, it would hit the blade. Also, in a morbid way, if the blade catches the corner of your hand, it will cut it off, but will not drag your hand into the blad like it would if it catches a glove.
you need to moan about not having a ferrari mate ;)
First remove your gloves, then remove your watch..
makes me laugh a mask and a hoover
Blade is miles too high! Also, you should never wear gloves when using a table saw. Damger! Danger!
One of the best additions to this particular saw, was a soft start module. See the youtube channel "Casual DIY" for instructions and a link to the module..
HI its only 5 % discount at the checkout. Cost summary
Description Price
Subtotal £239.98
Discount PROPERDIY - £11.99
Buy yourself a Trend DLB Digital Level Box
You shall not regret it my friend 🤌 BTW great video as usual keep it up!
I had this saw for a year and mine was just terrible. Fell out of square after pretty much every cut, because it kicks like a donkey when you start it up. The chatter was awful, even when cutting thin sheet materials, and the non-standard mitre slots are a real niggle too. Let's not even mention that the arbour is 25.4mm meaning you either need reducer rings for most blade brands (Saxton do a line with the right sized hole though) or are stuck with the expensive evolution ones. The worst thing is, this saw was only £220 when I bought mine just over a year ago, evolution have jacked it nip to £350 now!
After all that, just want to say this was a great video & I'm really enjoying working my way through your others.
Edited to add: I would never wear gloves when using power tools, I'd rather lose a finger than an arm.
Thanks for this. Useful reminder of my experience with Evolution gear after I began to soften towards this. Their quality control must be all over the place such that lucky owners swear by them while unlucky folk like you and me swear at them. They told me to return mine as not fixable the night after I bought it and found I couldn't even set it up (assembly fault at factory). Unused. Screwfix Erbauer similar
Sorry for my bad englich.in my opinion, using gloves is very dangerous because saw can drag it.
And your hand will follow...
Should set the blade height about 1/2 tooth above the material being cut.
Another interesting video. I’ve been thinking of getting a table saw and already have a few Evolution tools - they seem quite good, although I note the motors are often physically larger than other makes, which can be an issue, say for a circular saw. I am not sure you have set the blade correctly in your video. My understanding has always been that the blade should be set as low as possible in these things. Also, I would not myself wear gloves when operating most types of power tools. I served an apprenticeship as a toolmaker back in the 1970s (using lathes, millers, shapers, surface grinders, etc) and things like gloves, loose clothing, long hair and even jewellery were thought hazardous.
Avoid it, look for one with a rack and pinion fence like Skil's in that price range instead.
And you're right about blade height, you should set it so that the tooth at the apex is just above the height of the workpiece.
That little sliding table is a nice feature🤠✔️ My personal preference is not to wear gloves - I feel safer that way lol
Late to the party. Gloves & rotating machinery is an absolute no-go. And the blade is too high out. This is not a beginners guide, this is a dangerous advert.
Must say that the supplied instructions were next to useless for the build of the folding stand. However, I found an Evolution RUclips video which made it dead easy. Why they don’t just identify the link on the front of the instructions. If you’ve an engineering degree or you’re an astronaut you may not need the video 😂
Being uses these for YEARS never had a issue Rage 5 is amazing i pretty much have the set of Evo there blades are just perfection with everything it can cut great video
Nice informative video. Kick-back is serious, the wood is propelled at a goodly rate of knots and can do soft tissue damage or worse - I have the scar to prove it. Conventional wisdom says not to use any gloves when operating saws and the like as they can get caught and draw the hand into the blade, they also give a false sense of security and you lose tactile feedback that can warn you of any problem. Many woodworkers have the fence slightly angled away from the blade and not parallel, this prevents it sticking for whatever reason. It is recommend that the blade height should set so that the bottom of the gullet is just exposed above the wood - usually the manufacturer specifies the height as that; of course it depends on other factors too, such as material and rake of the blade. Generally, the lower the blade the less damage your hand will experience. I noted the saw rocked on its stand quite a bit, might be worth making some sort of stabilising gizmo - a concrete block or two on the cross rail might do it. I think probably the most important thing to do when using machinery is to be present all the time, and not let your mind wander to the football or whatever - that is when accidents happen. Thanks for sharing.
I bought a table saw out of Lidl - I'm a novice DIY'er... having done so though can't believe a tool of this ferocity can just be picked up by anyone for 80 odd quid.... I'm genuinely too scared to use it... aside from the kick back risk that big fast spinny blade right infront of you is terrifying... keep having visions of it coming off and going right through me... anyway, said table saw is now a table in the garage that happens to have a saw attached and is used to store drills on top of lol
Sounds familiar 😆
very nice bit of kit. However, as someone who is also from the UK, I understand the troubles going on. I think it high time we start introducing something along the lines of Cost's 14p to run per min, or something to that effect. Money is tight. I need to know where my money is really going. haha
Thankfully, MDF is not available where I live, have to use plywood.