Thank you for this video. I’ve had this saw for two years now and you’ve nailed almost every annoying thing with it. Regarding your segment about the off cut being cleaner than the cut part, I scratched my head over this for the whole 2 years as well. What I ended up finding was the plane of the blade is not parallel to the saws base groove that straddles the track. Even with adjusting the mating screws to try to compensate, the saw blade is still 1/32 off parallel, this results in the blade skewing inwards at the tail end of the cut (back), leaving saw marks.
The difference in surface finish between the two sides of the kerf remind me of the same issue with table saws with the blade out of alignment with the miter slot(s). For this, alignment requires a fixture with a dial indicator or establishing a fixed point and feeler gauges. Fixtures for table saws are available from several accessory manufactures and the feeler gage method is outlined in some OEM manuals. So, it could be that the "marrying" of the saw-to-track allows for the blade to be out-of-parallel to the track since the two-point adjustment actually permits a less-than-perfect set-up.
The pantographic plunge is so the riving knife has a kerf to goo into when you plunge cut a kerf mid board. It has been about ten years since I adjusted the plunge depth on my Dewalt, but I don’t remember it as being difficult, or hard to figure out.
I learned more about track-saws watching this video than I knew. Thank you, this taught me more about what to look for and check before I buy any track-saw. It is also a quick primer on track-saws for the un-schooled. This is a fine video.
I am a tablesaw amputee. My accident happened after I had been making a living as a professional woodworker for over a decade using a tablesaw every day. I couldn't agree more about the safety benefits of a tracksaw. Will a tracksaw replace a tablesaw? Absolutely not!! However it does allow you to take far less risk especially when working alone.
Table saws are the most dangerous tools and shoukd be banned. Any tool where you have push the timber is dangerous. Why they have discontinued the Radial arm saw I'll never know. A quality sliding table saw like Felder is 100 % safe because the timber is clamped and your hands a far from the blade. Plus you are moving the table slide. The track saw is a great tool
@@neilarmitage6632 radial arm saws are still around. Far more people are injured or killed in vehicles so start your van everything agenda in the right lane.
Banned, seriously. Are you from England ?? Imagine what your saying. That's funny. We should ban hospitals and Doctors also, since almost everyone that visits a doctor dies.
Dewalt came out with their TrackSaw around 13yrs or so ago. Festool was the only brand at that time with one. So I think some of the cons are due to dewalt trying to avoid patent issues. The aftermarket brands never jumped on the bandwagon until recently when more brands began making TrackSaws. I bought mine around 2013 and love it. Have had zero issues. Looking forward to the tso square
I may be mistaken, but I seem to remember an Elu track circularcsaw that plunged way back about 1991. Nearly bought but went into IT away from kitchen scratch building
Ive had this saw for 4 years now. I adjusted the base to the blade as soon as i got it and have had perfect cuts from the get-go. Totally agree on blade change 'contraption' in fact i broke mine on the 1st blade i changed and now just hold the blade when chaging it out. PITA. Doubled sided track means you arent changing rubbers out as often and better in limited space. Riving knife stays in box as i typically use thinner blades.
I picked up the corded version a few years ago and it has been flawless. Has a different blade than the 60V model, never had a problem with the finish of the cuts even in 2" hardwood.
I own the 60v DEWALT track saw using the Festool track. I was great no problem with it. Cutting with it was dead on accurate. I even use the new Festool FS-WA angle stop it work great!
"The fatal flaw and why I don't recommend it is because you can't use an aftermarket accessory... oh wait, I have one here in a box that apparently works great."
I got the dewalt corded before there were other options (I’m a Milwaukee guy). I read the manual and the quirks never bothered me. I get butter smooth cuts on both pieces. Check the alignment of the base on the track, you blade is attacking the wood at a small angle outwards making the leading edge of the blade cutting the off cut (to the right) and the trailing edge on the up cut is scarring the wood under the guide, if that makes sense. The alignment is tricky but once you dial it in you’re good. Thanks for the vis and glad they have accessories for my saw now!
The DeWalt saw is compatible with the festool & Makita tracks, so you could always get one of them to adopt the TSO system. Now with this new TSO adapter youve got access to DeWalts substantially cheaper tracks.
I use my De Walt cordless saw on Festool track no problem. I feel that I've just wasted 18 minutes of my life listening to this guy enjoying to the sound of his own voice. Couldn't be bothered to finish the vid. Nothing he said was of any value to me (pro carpenter/joiner).
I like that TSO is supporting DeWalt's weirdness, because the tracks are cheaper, but for the application of using the parallel guides, don't you need two squares to use them with DeWalt?
Don't know if anyone else has touched on this, but I recall another review of this saw and it works with Festool tracks so, you could have used your track square all along.
The double hinge is to keep your hand in the same orientation to the saw....the same angle as a hand saw. It's weird at first, but I like now I'm used to it
I have the track saw, and purchased it because of the parallel plunge (double hinge you call it), due to it being more ergonomic for your wrist, and works better when doing a two-handed operation of the saw. The riving knife on mine was straight from the box, no problems there. I cut a 8/4 thick white oak 3.8m (12.5') with a semi dull blade, and absolutely zero rough marks on either my off cut nor my main piece. So blade-saw-track parallelism adjustment is defenately a part of your challange. Biggest downside I have with it, is the rubber on the track is not having enough friction, so the track skids arround.
I have the Dewalt saw and think it is great - probably my favorite tool ! In response to your key points : The advantage of the double hinge is that the handle stays in the same orientation which I find gives more control and if you are using it all day long is far better ergonomics. The depth adjustment is slightly frustrating but you soon work out how to allow for any disrepancy. As mentioned below the blade marks on one side of the cut are because the blade is running fractionally out of parrallel with the track - this can easily be adjusted out with the adjusters and once dialled-in doesnt need to be revisited - I haven't had to redo it since doing when first new. The double sided guide is very useful cutting sheets as you can flip the saw to cut the other side of the sheet without having to rotate the track through 180 degrees, which can be a real chore when it is 2.4m long ! I have no need for any form of rail square so not having a third party one to suit is no issue to me. I plug my saw into a socket on my extractor so it switches on automatically when the saw starts. Overall I find it is a very robust, accurate and powerful tool and very good value. Re Table Saws I do agree they can be dangerous - just like any tool, however, used safetly they are perfectly Ok. However, if like many idiots you remove the blade guard and riving knife, rip cut short sections of timber and don't use a push stick then sooner or later you are going to get hurt !
I use a 3m Makita track in my 2.5m wide workshop. I sometimes wish it was double sided as I have to walk out the workshop to spin the track around. The only other benefit I can think of is if one wants to run 2 different blades with different kerfs. One splinter guard can be trimmed up match each.
The DeWalt track has 2 sides because Europeans have a circular saw that has the shoe base of a track saw (DCS 576). One side of the track is for 90 degree cuts and the other side is for 45 degree cuts because the circular saw alters the splinter guard based on the angle
I bought the corded model (DWS520CK) in 2018 for $629.99 with two tracks (59” & 102”). I remodel houses and this saw has made a lot of cutting tasks much easier. The reversible track comes in handy in situations when work space small which is often. The saw is quite powerful, light weight, easy to use. I particularly like the saw for cutting new doors to fit into existing door frames, trim work, flooring, etc. I do wish that the accessories were available for this saw but im very happy with it nonetheless.
I also do remodels and new build and find myself cutting alot of doors to fit. I almost never use my Makita track saw. Instead I just use a really good Skilsaw with a precisely secured straight edge. Works like a charm if done correctly. The key is to never, ever use the saw you want to be precise with for anything other than that. You'll tweak the deck/blade alignment if you do
@@dilldowschwagginz2674that’s the way i used to do it, but the tracksaw does it so much faster, easier and cleaner… not sure why you wouldn’t use the better tool for the job if you already have it.
@@dilldowschwagginz2674 Not to be rude, but any first year woodworker knows you can clamp down a straight edge for rip cuts. By the time anyone has gotten to the point where they want to spend $600 on a track saw, they obviously don't want to do that any more. Or want something even more accurate for things trimming doors for existing frames.
Very thorough and fair review. I *HATE* how you have to go through gyrations to change the blade. But allow me to rebut. I like that you can screw down the track fit screws. Gives me a piece of mind. Benchdog makes a native square rail but you *do* have to take the rubber off where the square locks in. So I just bought the Festool track (works fine with DeWalt) because it has the most number of accessories. In remodel scenario, there are times when not having to rotate the track in limited space can come in handy. But I agree that it's not worth the "lack of accessories" price. I'm glad TSO is making the parallel guides though. Dust extraction is great - especially with your hole cover-thingy. The vacuum port does fit with many hoses and I'm happy they added the DeWalt twist lock hose compatibility. And finally, I never noticed the depth of cut because I always add a tiny bit more (don't care that it cuts into the insulation foam board. But then again, maybe that's why I started doing that! :)
I’ve had my a DeWalt corded track saw for ten years. It has served me well and given the choices at the time were either a $600 DeWalt or a $1000 Festool, I regret nothing. I mostly use it to break down plywood. I over cut the pieces a little and then take them to the table saw for the final cuts. Yes, the blade changes are mystifying but I’m not going to replace my saw until it stops working. It still works like a champ.
Nice review. Seeing the rotation possible with setting the saw to the track I wonder if you have the saw at an angle to the track and the rear after following teeth one side are causing the roughness. I have always wondered why reviewers do not use some of the highly accurate engineering kit to test equipment. If a saw is meant to cut an inch deep, measure it. It the angle says 45degrees, then measure it. My small de Walt circular has the base slightly out of line with the blade, which is not easy to alter. Cutting against a long straight edge causes the saw to lock up after about 3 feet and become very difficult. Not too different to what you are experiencing. Again good measuring kit shows the problem. Test the blade to the guide, front and back and see if you are 20 thou out or so. This is more difficult to do, but good luck with it.
I understand what you are saying, but the saw was meant to cut more than 2" deep. It couldn't make it through a 2" piece of wood on it's max setting. He doesn't have to have a precision measuring tool to know that it's depth of cut is inaccurate since it couldn't cut 2" when set to it's max depth of 2 1/8".
Bought into DeWalt, and don't want to spend extra money on batteries for other platforms if possible. Still appreciate the critical, informative review. I'm sure each brand has areas they could improve on and DeWalt is definitely not an exception, so thank you for letting us know what we're up against. Notes on DeWalt's marketing wankery concerning batteries: Nominal voltage of the 60V Max system is 54v, nominal for 20V Max is 18v. The 54v batteries are really 3x 18v with either a series configuration for a combined voltage of 54v or parallel configuration for extended capacity which is annoyingly marketed on the 54v system to show the 18v combined capacity, not the 54v. So a 9ah 60V Max DeWalt battery is really a 3ah 54v battery or a 9ah 18v. Dumb marketing, really dumb, but also how DeWalt managed to not have to slot multiple batteries to the track saw.
Gotta ask how exactly were you able to figure out the battery voltages etc?? Please help me🙏. I own all Makita tools (They usually have the best quality materials in their tools that imho separate them from most competitors though admittedly not necessarily the best design and their main downfall by far is that their tools usually always cost significantly more) All that said here's my dilemma/question I desperately need help with) please respond back or anyone else reading this that is knowledgeable to answer PLEASE RESPOND So I'm in need for a new miter saw and table saw. I'm only interested in the cordless setup after countless hours of research I'm shooting for Milwaukees 10" miter chop box and Milwaukees 8-1/4" table saw... Anyways here's my question to you finally.... What would be the issue "if any" if I add my Makita 18V LXT 5Ah battery's to the aftermarket Adapter that then slides into place where Milwaukees M18 battery "Redlithium HD8.0 or HD12.0" Would it matter? How can I figure out the voltage or whatever's needed so I can be sure I'm not damaging the motor or frying the saws?? Id actually even prefer Dewalts table saw right now since it's on sale but I've got no clue if it would work with my Makita batteries since their battery table saw takes "FlexVolt 60V Max 9.0 Ah". I'm curious if I found an attachment for Makitas NEW "40V Max XGT 4.0AH" be enough or would I have to buy makitas highest 40V Max XGT 8.0AH which is freaking😒$389 alone! Please PLEASE Respond back someone. I've got to figure this out. No I am not trying to just cave in and buy each brands battery and charger. I'm a loyal Makita guy and I would much prefer to get over on all of them for a change, than they getting over on all of us with todays ridiculous pricing! Thank You China for making the adapters which helps save our middle blue collar class Americans by-pass our unaffordable system. It's absolutely ridiculous how an average tradesman would have to struggle for many many months to pay off one's tools HAHHAHA yeah my fault 🤦♂️ for the little rant
@@BostonLoyalT The milwaukee HD8 and HD12 batteries are a massive step up over the 5ah batteries. They use 21700 cells vs the normal 18650 cells, a whole battery size up that has major improvements in current handling and capacity. It would be unwise to attempt to use the multi voltage packs with an adapter, it sucks but getting a battery or two means you're not using up your makita batteries as well. A single HD12.0 will last you a long time, my 5-6 year old 1st gen milwaukee 9.0 battery in a m18 fuel sawzall was able to demo an entire kitchen, 8 2x8 joists and 3 walls all on one charge while being used to cut conduit as well for a whole week. Unless you are just spending all day ripping boards on the table saw or mitering, I'd expect a single battery to last you most of a day.
@@BostonLoyalT good luck. I know you must use matching batteries for best performance. I would just buy a good extension cord, and forget batteries for large tools. It simply can't be worth the cost & effort unless you work in the deep woods. Battery powered motors under severe loads will have more problems, and shortened life if batteries aren't fully charged at peak loading. I have milwaukee, Dewalt, rigid, ryobi, and craftsman tools and batteries, as well as old ridgid and Milwaukee nickel cadmium battery tools. I buy when things are available, at yard sales and such, and buy new batteries as needed. Don't sell your soul to be loyal to one company. Especially festool. Good luck.
The DeWalt 20, and 60V batteries are called that to differentiate them from the old DeWalt 18V lithium, with the stub, which didn’t sell well because it was twice as expensive as their NiCad batteries, and wouldn’t charge below 35F, or above 100F. Which to the guys I knew working in LasVegas, was a huge issue. You don’t want to run your Diesel pickup all day just to have somewhere to charge their batteries.
@@BostonLoyalT DeWalt posts theirs in the fine print, I believe they're required to do so to avoid litigation for false advertising. Alternatively you could put a voltmeter on a fully charged battery or if you know the individual cell voltage you can math out what the pack should be. For the DeWalt stuff the info is pretty ubiquitous, you might just need to do some googling.
I bought the Milwaukee based on your review….I bought the 55” track and the 106” track. I am very excited to try this saw….have a huge plywood job to do on my home.
I own the corded Dewalt track saw and really like it. All of the things you didn't like about it are things you get used to and aren't a problem. The 102" track bends easily and I wonder if the Milwaukee track would be stronger. The hard push down start button is bothersome to me. having the cord come out the left side also can be a pain to deal with, but still better than carrying the weight of a battery and having the saw worthless when new battery tech makes it obsolete. My saw will last 30 years with medium light duty..... good video. new sub. thumbs up.
I am a precision sheet metal professional who instantly knows what is happening with the raising knife. (that's one of the names closed captions called it) Seeing the edge quality, I can tell it is a stamped sheet metal part. It also has a dimple formed on one end. The raw material is fed into the punch press from a coil, meaning it was never flat to start with, and every part is different as the coil diameter diminishes. Then there are the stresses from being stamped, adding more un-flatness. The dimple formation puts additional surface stresses, which are all unpredictable. Then there is a hole punched on the same end. All of that activity has changed the tension, causing the bowing mostly on that end. The bottom line is the manufacturer either ignored, failed to see the need, or forgot the need to straighten the part before plating it.
I was having trouble with the riving knife. It was working its way to the blade so I took it out. This is not one of my primary tools so I don’t use it much. After watching this video I decided to revisit the riving knife but first a blade change because I didn’t remember it being as difficult as you found it to be. I fought it and fought it following the instructions in the manual like a good boy. After some prayer (I should have done that first) I figured it out. It only works when the saw is pushed down to full depth!! I had the the cutting depth limited to something less than full depth. The riving knife will have to wait for another day.
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
The saw sounds ok for a weekender but not the guy who needs it daily. Too much time with the little things. Time is money and the quality of the cut is vital. Great review.
Glad I saw this video. As a DIYer, I'll never remember how to deal with quirks. I still don't know how you change the saw blade after your demo, nevermind in two years when I want to use a track saw again.
I have this saw, mostly because of the collection of other yellow tools sharing the same battery. But I am using it with Festool rails without any problems, including rail square and parallel guides for Festool rails
I just bought a DeWalt corded circular saw, which fits the same rails. The manual says the double sides serve to set one splinter guard for a straight cut, and the other for a beveled cut. I'll look into those TSO accessories, as I'd like to avoid having to get a table saw.
I have this saw and I use a Festool Track with TSO square and parallels guides, works great! No complaints here. Also not a "Dewalt fan-boy" but have a lot of their 20V and 60V tools, so it only made sense for me.
For narrow cuts on smaller pieces of wood, I think there’s still a great argument for table saws. However, I bought the Festool TSV 60 track saw with scoring feature and a CT MIDI Dust Extractor and the TSO Parallel Guide/Guide Rails. My SawStop will NEVER come close to the beautiful, finish ready cuts I get with this setup. Squaring my wood is incredibly easier as well and then knocking out repeat cuts. Buying this combo was literally addictive and building a complete Festool setup. And the built Bluetooth and plug on the dust extraction means my corded and cordless Festool products have the best and most convenient dust collection available. When you think about buying once and crying once, Festool is why!! ZERO regrets and never looking back!
When I was shopping for a track saw, the biggest concern I had was accessory compatibility. This ruled out the Dewalt immediately. Also, like you, I didn't see any value in the double-sided track. Aside from being pointless, it reduces the number of slots for rail joiners to one, which isn't enough. And as long as a 118" track costs as much as the whole saw did, I'll have to keep using two 55" tracks joined together for long cuts. I chose the Makita corded saw, and love it.
Yep same with mine. Used it yesterday. Rivot knife is so bent it stops the blade from plunging and track moves on the material im working on. I think im going to remove it today
Oh dang!! Ive had the dewalt 60v tracksaw since it was released. Everything you said was dead on (except I never had an issue with my riving knife). Ive pretty much adjusted to most of those issues you mentioned, but to this day, I still pull my hair out with blade change. I always seem to forget the process and have to go back to RUclips for instructions. Im a Dewalt guy, but when people ask, I tell them to go elsewhere or wait for Dewalts gen2
I could never understand why anybody needs a track saw at all, much less the latest and greatest to hit the market. I've been making my own track on jobsites, usually from scrap lumber, since long before track saws became a thing. I guess I'm just old school.
That's what I do. But, now retired, I wish I could justify a good tracksaw with accessories to do most of what table saws and mitre saws do. Faster, neater, less dust than circular saw with my own 'track'. My new corded Makita circular saw has a track attachment and works very well
@@cuebj If I was retired (soon, I hope), that would be justification enough 😁. I can see keeping a track saw with various length tracks stored neatly in a shop. I was thinking about jobsites, where the less tools I need, the better. Congrats on the retirement! 🎉🥂
@@ltandrepants No, never needed one. If I did more custom cabinet or high-end trim work, or if I had a workshop, then I could see investing in a good one. But for my work I would rarely use it.
I am so thankful i found your video. I just had to replace my Makita corded and was considering the Dewalt. I do not not have an issue with an extension cord tagging along so I did buy another corded Makita for a little under $400. BTW, I had to replace the Makita because I abused it by taking full depth cuts on 8/4 pecan slabs! It did well for a while but I burned it out eventually. Won't do that again.
Great video, I have been a furniture maker for 43 years. 1st, I love most all tools, 2nd as with most all people that use power tools, we mostly grew up with Dewalt tools and have an expectation of Dewalt being pretty good quality. What's amazing is you were so gentle and hesitant not to offend the Dewalt lovers, but the truth is the truth. Sorry for the haters you will get, but this is why I watch. Your honest. Thanks Great video.
I think the coarse texture on one side of your cut would be the back of the blade dragging on that side. That in turn may be connected to the difficulty marrying the saw to the base. If it's a little scewed it would set the back of the blade against one side of the cut.
Yes, it reminds me of results I had been seeing on my table saw until I realized the rip fence wasn‘t perfectly parallel to the saw blade. Fortunately, it’s adjustable on my table saw.
The latest version of their corded saw, the DWE575 which has been on market for many years now, also has the blade slightly skewed out of parallel to the foot plate. There is absolutely no way to adjust it. It's good for framing, but I can't use any kind of cutting guide with it, including the little slide-in rip fence, because it tries to wander and ends up binding. I've used several of those saws and they all have the same problem.
I personally love the fact that the track tension knobs have a secondary lockdown screw. It would bother they ever love in the heck out of me if I had to keep adjusting those every time I took it off the track because they moved ever so slightly out of alignment.
I'm surprised more people don't appreciate the 2 sided track. It's been amazing for me. I don't like the 45 but really have never used it anyway. Always 45 on table saw. Took a while to get used to the odd hinge. Love the saw overall. Came from corded kreg and makita.
As for the cut quality I’m guessing the blade alignment is off. On my makita I took the time to set the back angle so the blade is ever so slightly (.003”) closer to the track on the from edge than the trailing edge. This way only on the up cut is your blade touching your finished part.
Not sure If others have said but your main gripe can be overcome by using a festool track (it works with other brands) the other thing is it is both a 60v and 18v battery well actually 54v but for some reason Dewalt markets them as 60v in America. It has a super cool switch inside converting it to 54v to be used in flex volt tools but also works in 18v tools. The depth and angle gauges are definitely a big negative. I’m still tempted because it saves me having to have another battery platform.
Yep, Milwaukee's copy of the previous generation Festool is spot on. Pity it's the same price as the newest generation Festool in the UK. There's a reason that the yellow Black and Decker is the cheapest of the bunch...or several reasons, obviously.
I had the same issue with the riving knife on my corded DeWalt tracksaw! Real head scratcher. Spent an hour tuning it up and now the saw is extremely accurate. I much prefer the DeWalt over the Festool and Makitas that I have used quite a bit.
i have the corded version, didn’t see the point of going cordless when i’d have a vac attached to it anyway… unless you’re going to carry it around a lot and not use a vac… in any case, i have no complaints about it, it’s been very good to me and such a game changer that i barely use my table saw anymore.
Strange maybe they revised it but my saw goes to 2 and 3/8" depth without rail. I removed the riveting knife day 1. The blade change is frustrating but you get used to it. I honestly didn't even know you could marry the track but when I checked after watching your video I guess I was lucky and it was already perfectly tight
Just a bit of info. DeWalt is a subsidiary of Staley Black & Decker. DeWalt is _assembled_ in the US from parts manufactured in Brazil, China and Mexico.
I have a wood working shop. I have retired and I just tinker around at the shop. I think a track saw is nice but I don’t know if I would use it or not. They look great. What do you use it the most on?
Mostly to cut down big sheets of plywood soon don’t manhandle them at the tablesaw alone. I’ll also use it to cross cut the ends of glue ups when making tables.
I think I see the advantage to the double hinge plunge system. Now understand I'm a Makita corded track saw user and I also own a Grizzly track saw as well and the one thing I've noticed about them vs this DEWALT is the fact that your wrist rotates to a different angle from start up to plunging and moving forward where as on the DEWALT your wrist angle stays the same. But this is just my observation.
@@wittworks it's good for the price personally. I changed the blade to a CMT blade. I mean it hooks to my festool dust extractor but still kinda dusty though. Other than that it not all that bad. I still use my Makita as my main unit in the shop and on the job site.
Thank you for this video. I have found as a tool nut, The best thing about Dewalt is there tool carry bags, because I can carry my Milwaukee tools in them and no one will steel them. LoL. but true.
I use dewalt corded track saw with festool midi vac so no need to worry about Bluetooth, I love the dewalt air lock system on the vacuum I run a festool domino with the same vacuum I much prefer the dewalt air lock to the festool system. The depth is a slight gripe but as a cabinet maker of over 20 years I have learnt to never fully trust a scale anyway so just get it set up correctly irrespective of what the scale says. My biggest issue with the track saw is the rail connecting two rails together is always a bit of a faf, could do with two straight parallel joining bars rather than one, find it is tricky to get it straight but again once it's set. it's set! Personally I prefer the tstak boxes over the festool I know I can stand on the tstak as the plastic is kinda rubbery and doesn't split if in the back of van etc the festool box I've never stood on mine as I'm pretty sure it would crack in a heartbeat also pretty sure the festool box will smash all to hell if you dropped it. on hindsight I should have gone mefell but for budget, and I'm already in the dewalt system.
I don't typically get my track saw out of the tool trailer. I do regularly need to make precise, very straight cuts but I almost always use a straight edge whether that be a clamp edge, 8 ft level or sometimes a 12' stick of MDF baseboard that has been jointed if necessary. The key is to always have at least one circ saw that you only use for precision cuts. Personally, I keep a Skilsaw in a separate lock box that is only for this purpose. It doesn't get used for anything else for any reason that way the shoe and blade alignment stays true. I have a Makita track saw setup that works very well but it doesn't produce better results than I can get out of the method mentioned above. What I WOULD like to have though is a track saw setup for a 4" wet circ saw. That would be helpful because using a secured straight edge with a wet circ saw is a different ballgame and it doesn't always work as well
I do the same. I have a worm drive skill saw with Ole Bessy written on the side. Only used for my precision cuts. Works great. A 10' level, two clamps, and a high quality blade is just as good as a track saw.
I bought this saw 4 years ago and love it. No riving knife problems, and from reading comments here it sounds like maybe they had a some sort of QC fail there. Your criticisms are all fair, just nothing that really bothers me when I use it. One thing that is probably another QC fail is the depth of cut, I do get the full depth cut they mention in the specs. That fact that you are not AND the depth stop is off could mean another QC issue, maybe with the plunge mechanism?
I own the corded version of this saw and, like you, have been frustrated changing blades and operating the depth gauge. I’ve been in search for a square for the Dewalt track for years. So thanks for the TSO tip. Despite the quirks, I think the saw is awesome. Although I might upgrade to the cordless version.
The cordless saw motor is 360W (60Vx6A), the corded version motor is 1300W. For sheet goods, that's probably not an issue, and the power cord is always in the way. If one is doing 2" cuts in hardwood, the corded one probably is a better choice.
Festool tracks are definately the way to go. I accidentally dropped one off of my truck onto an entrance ramp of a busy highway. It got ran over all day (the metro area is a million people), and then I went looking for it after work. I found it and tried using it. It worked exactly like it was supposed it. Just a couple scratches on the face of it.
Took me like 30 minutes to figure out how to change the blade on my new DeWalt job site table saw. They over think that! I LOVE my Makitas. They are so simple (as long as you don't loose the key!)
Couple things: Referencing the cut, Could that be due to a misalignment? As in, you have it assembled and aligned correctly, but the saw isn't holding up its end in terms of your accuracy being transferred through to the cut angle through the wood by the blade? More on this at the end. But spoiler, did your saw get dropped on its blade end? With regards to the battery not being 60v, they are. There are 3 banks of cells in the flexvolt batteries. Using a 20v tool they are connected in parallel. In parallel is like stacking 2 AA batteries side by side with the terminals connected to the same bus, as in the two positive poles connect to the positive wire and same with the negative side. Two 1.5 volt batteries give you 1.5 volts out with twice the storage in amp-hours. If you take those two AA batteries and connect them tip to tail, put them in series, as in make connections between sequential positive and one negative terminals in the stack of batteries or banks of parallel cells, like in a TV remote or, more obviously, an old-school flashlight, the voltages stack. Two 1.5 volt batteries become 3v output with the same storage capacity. With a 60v tool the 3 banks of cells in a flexvolt battery are connected in series. The same battery has both connections, but the 60v tools can't take a 20v. Different terminals are addressed on the same battery by different tools. There's a lot going on in that battery terminal, which may be why they come with those locking red travel covers. If you need hands-on, visceral proof of the 60 (well, 54 really) volt nature of the flexvolt packs, get your hands on the 60v worm drive "skilsaw" rear handle circular saw. It's a beast, you should try that sometime if you haven't already. Depth of cut: If you "account for" the track thickness, doesn't that mean that you include it in your ledger of measurements? Point is that while I am as pedantic as the next guy, if you simply measure the track and add that to the shown depth of cut, does it all add up? I mean, if you _accounted_ for the track thickness and all. I'm honestly not sure, and I can't say that I like dewalt's manuals at all, I never read them. This being the case if I just picked the saw up I would assume the depth of cut was as shown, in total, the protrusion from the saw by the blade at its max depth. It would almost seem like a liability and safety issue in case of misuse by the consumer. "The commute to work should only have taken 20 minutes, but accounting for traffic it took an hour". It's a terrible choice of words and the technical writers' ancestors are disappointed in them. It would have been pretty easy to come up with better words than "accounting for". Even just now I tried casually to google that phrase for meaning and all I got was financial considerations, and any accounting-ese language makes my eyes cross. Some of the controls did seem very odd. The apparent ease with which you moved that one slide-y bit was disconcerting. The blade change system is quite unlike what one would expect, but again you read the manual there, and I'll repeat that I do not like their manuals, I feel your pain. Finally, I guess I might have some questions about the origin of the saw. Was this like a mail order deal? I have chosen to get all my tools in person at a store, in doing so it seems to me that I get a little more quality control over handling of the packages before I take over. Your bent riving knife and the disparity between sides of cut and that floopy control slide and the etc., make me wonder if that tool was dropped on its head out of the black and yellow tree on its way to you. I don't believe that saw would have made it past QA in the condition you showed. I'd return the tool if I took it "new" out of the box and a piece of steel attached to the tool was bent as if someone had taken a small hammer to it at an awkward angle. Or dropped it, or accepted it as a turn in and sent it to the next guy. Or something. Right? Something doesn't add up.
I have the Dewalt track saw, and I use it almost every day. After figuring out how to change the blade😅. Everything else works just fine for me. I cut a lot of melamine with it, and it does a good job.
I've always used my Dewalt track saw for rough dimension cuts. I never rely on it for the final cut. I reserve that for the table saw. And I have not found a situation where I needed to do a full plunge cut.
Most of the track saw blade is not parallel to the base, that's reason the off cut look smoother. I think they adjust it that way to prevent kick back.
I use this dewalt track saw and I’m very happy with it It has so much power and cuts so smooth It’s a very good saw but needed a lot of attention to meet my standards I ended up removing the riving knife due to the same issue you were having I also do not use the dewalt tracks I use only Makita tracks with all TSO accessories I know it’s a different saw than typical but it is very good
I'm curious if you have seen the same issue of a smooth offcut and marred keep cut as he had in video, and if so, was it rectified by putting a better blade on the saw, or adjusting how the saw marries to the track?
RE DeWalt’s 20V-60V batteries. The Dual voltage rating is achieved by switching between three 18V batteries, in series or in parallel. A large advantage of this setup, is that the DeWalt batteries can be shipped air freight because they are less than the threshold value for airfreight.
Don’t know if anyone else’s has mentioned this, I haven’t read all the comments, but the dewalt will work on festool, makita etc guide rails, also, benchdogs make a nifty guide square for the dewalt guide rails. One more thing, the dewalt rails being able to cut on both sides means, you can use one side for 45 degree cuts and the other for normal cuts. Not saying the other makes aren’t better and I agree about the plunge depth guide being flimsy, but it is still a capable saw.
I have a Dewalt tracksaw as well. Do you find that you have to really tighten down the knobs on the saw that give friction to the track when you are marrying them together? I found that if I didn’t really bear down on them, I ended up with deflection. But if you tighten them a lot then it’s hard to push on the track.
The best part of those TSO parallel guides is the quick adapters for Festool guide rails. Instead of having to slide the parallel guides from the end then screw them tight, you just slap it down on the guide rail, when finished you just pick it up off the guide rail.
I've got the dewalt track saw. I think it's a pretty good thing to have on a job site. I had to buy the clamps for the tracks and track extension for ripping claddings. But I think the benefit of having all dewalt batteries with this saw is bonus. I have to say that I used to own a corded makita before, but the motor is nowhere as powerful, and the accessories wasn't as good as dewalt. If you want to do more precise woodworking, I think Festool is the way to go. But for using it on a job site I found that my dewalt is quite robust and lasting me a few good years so far.
I have the same problem with the riving knife being bent. Opened a case with DeWalt support. They told me i need to send the whole saw back to service shop. Crazy waste of my time and productivity. Otherwise very happy with this saw and the interoperability with Festool track was a bonus as the track accessories are more available.
I know that this review is a year old but I thought that it should be made clear that the Dewalt is also compatible with the Makita, Festool and the Evolution guide tracks. I’ve used mine on all three without issues. Though you do need to recut the splinter guard on any new track that you use it on. The advantage of the Dewalt double sided track becomes apparent when making long cuts in a small environment. It can really save time not having to rotate a track in small space. This is maybe a niche use case but once i had experienced it, going back to traditional single sided tracks was a real pain in some situations.
I watched this video because I was having one or two issues with my Dewalt track saw (mainly vibration when cutting even a shallow depth). I would like to share what I found after going back to my garage to have a closer look. I took the blade out (the original 48T Dewalt blade) and found that on the back was a thick flat ring of burnt on rubber presumably from when I "initialised" the track and perhaps on a few subsequent cuts. The rubber was a real bitch to remove - had to use fine wire wool and spirit to remove it. Could not scrape it off with my fingernail, it was stuck really hard. Anyway, after giving it a really good clean including removing all the rubber deposits on the back side of the hardened teeth, the vibration was gone. So if you are having vibration problems please check this because the rubber is upsetting the balance of your blade.
Concerning flexVolt batteries they operate in 2 modes. In one, parallel, it’s 18v with higher available amperage. In series, the battery produces 54v at a lower amperage. Higher voltage system have less overall loss when compared to lower voltage systems. I think it was a pretty good idea on dewalts part. There are also regulations about batteries on plans etc, that’s why the default unhooked setting is 18v instead of the 54v configuration. Operation in series is done when the battery connects to the appropriate tool.
If you want a linger cord no your Makita, just do as I did. I went to Menard's and bought a 25 ft. extension cord and removed the receptacle end and the original cord from my saw. Thread the extension cord through the rubber guide and reconnect the wires to the saw, replace the handle and you're ready to go.
I believe the results of cut you have along with bent part is the result of the saw having been damaged. Your saw is most likely misaligned due to it having been dropped. The fix is quite easy to do by loosing screws and realigning the base plate to blade. The depth of blade issue I believe is also the result of damage to the saw, as I own two models and do not see this in either unit.
This is a fair review ! have this cordless saw . and also the Festool system . I feel the power from the 60 volt system is unparalled ! The double sided track is a huge plus for me ! Flipping those long tracks is a pain. The quality of the track is reflected in the price . I have invested heavily in the Dewalt 12/20/60 volt platform and almost equally as much in the Milwaukee 12/18 platform . I have both Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tablesaw's ...Dewalt cordless hand tools are a bit lighter in weight , which as a pro makes a huge diff ! I have had motor problems with Flexvolt chopsaws , just days outside the warranty ...! Also have killed some Dewalt brushless impacts and was advised that the brushless tools can't be pushed as hard as the brushed ones ! I'm also a fan/ user of the TSO system . I ordered the Dewalt adapter ! Thanks for the heads up !
All my battery tools are all dewalt, I had high hopes for this track saw but having used my dads corded festool many times I couldn’t get myself to buy the dewalt. If I get a jobsite track saw I’ll probably either wait till dewalt revises it or just buy my own festool.
I don't know if this is a problem with other track saws, I don't own one, but my thought on the screws on the tops of the adjustment knobs is that maybe dewalt is trying to make sure that they can't go out of adjustment as easily.
Hello, Just watched the video about the Dewalt 60v track saw and appreciate all the info. I have a corded Makita tracksaw and several rails including the 118in rail. However I have switched from cordless makita tools to Dewalt mainly due to availability. I have a Bomgaars store near me and they have amazing deals on Dewalt. I now have about 40 Dewalt 20v tools and a couple 60v tools so in the field cordless is my go to so I am looking to add the Dewalt track saw. I agree some of the shortcomings of this saw are not you being nitpicky, Dewalt should have done better. But, for me, the matching battery platform will outweigh those shortcomings. I like the idea of having one charger and being able to swap batteries from tool to tool. I'm glad to hear the Dewalt will fit on the Makta track so I can just buy the bare tool. One thing that confused me that you said was that Dewalt was marketing this saw as a 60v but it was just an 18v. Maybe you meant it truly a 54v? Anyway, thanks for the indepth review!
From what I see with the cut quality shown on the Maple, You are getting the rough cut on the main part of the Maple because the blade is not perfectly in line with the track. What is happening is the trailing part of the blade it "up-cutting" the face and taking more material off the previously cut face from the front of the blade. Not sure if you did change the blade before cutting but, a possible reason why the depth of cut is inaccurate could be that the blade itself is not exactly the right diameter. If it is less than the standard diameter then the depth of the cut will be shallower.
Did you make your 2 inch depth cut with the CMT blade? Because they are 6.49 inches or 165mm, which would explain why you didn't get a full 2 inch cut.
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Thank you for this video. I’ve had this saw for two years now and you’ve nailed almost every annoying thing with it. Regarding your segment about the off cut being cleaner than the cut part, I scratched my head over this for the whole 2 years as well. What I ended up finding was the plane of the blade is not parallel to the saws base groove that straddles the track. Even with adjusting the mating screws to try to compensate, the saw blade is still 1/32 off parallel, this results in the blade skewing inwards at the tail end of the cut (back), leaving saw marks.
Do you feel as though this was done intentionally for less blade drag ? Or just an engineering flaw Thanks.
The difference in surface finish between the two sides of the kerf remind me of the same issue with table saws with the blade out of alignment with the miter slot(s). For this, alignment requires a fixture with a dial indicator or establishing a fixed point and feeler gauges. Fixtures for table saws are available from several accessory manufactures and the feeler gage method is outlined in some OEM manuals. So, it could be that the "marrying" of the saw-to-track allows for the blade to be out-of-parallel to the track since the two-point adjustment actually permits a less-than-perfect set-up.
@@dustyroads834 Wouldn't this CAUSE more drag?
Sounds like grounds for a recall/replacement. That's ridiculous.
Blade should never be parallel to the guide.
The pantographic plunge is so the riving knife has a kerf to goo into when you plunge cut a kerf mid board. It has been about ten years since I adjusted the plunge depth on my Dewalt, but I don’t remember it as being difficult, or hard to figure out.
I learned more about track-saws watching this video than I knew. Thank you, this taught me more about what to look for and check before I buy any track-saw. It is also a quick primer on track-saws for the un-schooled. This is a fine video.
I am a tablesaw amputee. My accident happened after I had been making a living as a professional woodworker for over a decade using a tablesaw every day. I couldn't agree more about the safety benefits of a tracksaw. Will a tracksaw replace a tablesaw? Absolutely not!! However it does allow you to take far less risk especially when working alone.
Table saws are the most dangerous tools and shoukd be banned. Any tool where you have push the timber is dangerous. Why they have discontinued the Radial arm saw I'll never know. A quality sliding table saw like Felder is 100 % safe because the timber is clamped and your hands a far from the blade. Plus you are moving the table slide. The track saw is a great tool
@@neilarmitage6632 the most dangerous equipment found on construction sites is something that you may just have in your house or garage: a ladder.
@@neilarmitage6632 radial arm saws are still around. Far more people are injured or killed in vehicles so start your van everything agenda in the right lane.
@@neilarmitage6632 radial arm saws are the most dangerous woodworking tool. Ever.
Banned, seriously.
Are you from England ??
Imagine what your saying.
That's funny.
We should ban hospitals and Doctors also, since almost everyone that visits a doctor dies.
Dewalt came out with their TrackSaw around 13yrs or so ago. Festool was the only brand at that time with one. So I think some of the cons are due to dewalt trying to avoid patent issues. The aftermarket brands never jumped on the bandwagon until recently when more brands began making TrackSaws. I bought mine around 2013 and love it. Have had zero issues. Looking forward to the tso square
Festool had a ton of patents on that thing. That's why so many brands came out with track saws around the same time. The patents started to expire.
As long as the other makers managed to do a great job, it is a problem with Dewalt. See how many people love Bosch ones, Makita or Milwakee.
I may be mistaken, but I seem to remember an Elu track circularcsaw that plunged way back about 1991. Nearly bought but went into IT away from kitchen scratch building
Mafelle had a track saw at that time not just Festool
I agree plus I have lots of dewalt tools and dewalt batteries and did not want to change. I do not have a problem with the riving knife.
Ive had this saw for 4 years now. I adjusted the base to the blade as soon as i got it and have had perfect cuts from the get-go. Totally agree on blade change 'contraption' in fact i broke mine on the 1st blade i changed and now just hold the blade when chaging it out. PITA.
Doubled sided track means you arent changing rubbers out as often and better in limited space. Riving knife stays in box as i typically use thinner blades.
I picked up the corded version a few years ago and it has been flawless. Has a different blade than the 60V model, never had a problem with the finish of the cuts even in 2" hardwood.
Very interesting. I’m really trying to figure out that double hinge…so weird but I know it’s for a reason
I own the 60v DEWALT track saw using the Festool track. I was great no problem with it. Cutting with it was dead on accurate. I even use the new Festool FS-WA angle stop it work great!
"The fatal flaw and why I don't recommend it is because you can't use an aftermarket accessory... oh wait, I have one here in a box that apparently works great."
My thoughts exactly, all these "dealbreakers" for an advert at the end, a "really well thought out money maker for him" 🤣
I got the dewalt corded before there were other options (I’m a Milwaukee guy). I read the manual and the quirks never bothered me. I get butter smooth cuts on both pieces. Check the alignment of the base on the track, you blade is attacking the wood at a small angle outwards making the leading edge of the blade cutting the off cut (to the right) and the trailing edge on the up cut is scarring the wood under the guide, if that makes sense. The alignment is tricky but once you dial it in you’re good. Thanks for the vis and glad they have accessories for my saw now!
The DeWalt saw is compatible with the festool & Makita tracks, so you could always get one of them to adopt the TSO system. Now with this new TSO adapter youve got access to DeWalts substantially cheaper tracks.
I use my De Walt cordless saw on Festool track no problem. I feel that I've just wasted 18 minutes of my life listening to this guy enjoying to the sound of his own voice. Couldn't be bothered to finish the vid. Nothing he said was of any value to me (pro carpenter/joiner).
I like that TSO is supporting DeWalt's weirdness, because the tracks are cheaper, but for the application of using the parallel guides, don't you need two squares to use them with DeWalt?
@@TheMadComputerScientist1787 If the square truly is square, then you just need one parallel guide
@@karlackermann2239 my parallel guide arrived last night. I'll give it a try with one and see how it goes.
Don't know if anyone else has touched on this, but I recall another review of this saw and it works with Festool tracks so, you could have used your track square all along.
The double hinge is to keep your hand in the same orientation to the saw....the same angle as a hand saw. It's weird at first, but I like now I'm used to it
I have the track saw, and purchased it because of the parallel plunge (double hinge you call it), due to it being more ergonomic for your wrist, and works better when doing a two-handed operation of the saw.
The riving knife on mine was straight from the box, no problems there.
I cut a 8/4 thick white oak 3.8m (12.5') with a semi dull blade, and absolutely zero rough marks on either my off cut nor my main piece. So blade-saw-track parallelism adjustment is defenately a part of your challange.
Biggest downside I have with it, is the rubber on the track is not having enough friction, so the track skids arround.
I have the Dewalt saw and think it is great - probably my favorite tool ! In response to your key points : The advantage of the double hinge is that the handle stays in the same orientation which I find gives more control and if you are using it all day long is far better ergonomics. The depth adjustment is slightly frustrating but you soon work out how to allow for any disrepancy. As mentioned below the blade marks on one side of the cut are because the blade is running fractionally out of parrallel with the track - this can easily be adjusted out with the adjusters and once dialled-in doesnt need to be revisited - I haven't had to redo it since doing when first new. The double sided guide is very useful cutting sheets as you can flip the saw to cut the other side of the sheet without having to rotate the track through 180 degrees, which can be a real chore when it is 2.4m long ! I have no need for any form of rail square so not having a third party one to suit is no issue to me. I plug my saw into a socket on my extractor so it switches on automatically when the saw starts. Overall I find it is a very robust, accurate and powerful tool and very good value. Re Table Saws I do agree they can be dangerous - just like any tool, however, used safetly they are perfectly Ok. However, if like many idiots you remove the blade guard and riving knife, rip cut short sections of timber and don't use a push stick then sooner or later you are going to get hurt !
I use a 3m Makita track in my 2.5m wide workshop. I sometimes wish it was double sided as I have to walk out the workshop to spin the track around.
The only other benefit I can think of is if one wants to run 2 different blades with different kerfs. One splinter guard can be trimmed up match each.
That’s actually a great point!
Love your videos Sean! Awesome honesty 😎👍
The DeWalt track has 2 sides because Europeans have a circular saw that has the shoe base of a track saw (DCS 576). One side of the track is for 90 degree cuts and the other side is for 45 degree cuts because the circular saw alters the splinter guard based on the angle
I bought the corded model (DWS520CK) in 2018 for $629.99 with two tracks (59” & 102”). I remodel houses and this saw has made a lot of cutting tasks much easier. The reversible track comes in handy in situations when work space small which is often. The saw is quite powerful, light weight, easy to use. I particularly like the saw for cutting new doors to fit into existing door frames, trim work, flooring, etc. I do wish that the accessories were available for this saw but im very happy with it nonetheless.
I also do remodels and new build and find myself cutting alot of doors to fit. I almost never use my Makita track saw. Instead I just use a really good Skilsaw with a precisely secured straight edge. Works like a charm if done correctly. The key is to never, ever use the saw you want to be precise with for anything other than that. You'll tweak the deck/blade alignment if you do
@@dilldowschwagginz2674that’s the way i used to do it, but the tracksaw does it so much faster, easier and cleaner… not sure why you wouldn’t use the better tool for the job if you already have it.
@@dilldowschwagginz2674 Not to be rude, but any first year woodworker knows you can clamp down a straight edge for rip cuts. By the time anyone has gotten to the point where they want to spend $600 on a track saw, they obviously don't want to do that any more. Or want something even more accurate for things trimming doors for existing frames.
Very thorough and fair review. I *HATE* how you have to go through gyrations to change the blade. But allow me to rebut. I like that you can screw down the track fit screws. Gives me a piece of mind. Benchdog makes a native square rail but you *do* have to take the rubber off where the square locks in. So I just bought the Festool track (works fine with DeWalt) because it has the most number of accessories. In remodel scenario, there are times when not having to rotate the track in limited space can come in handy. But I agree that it's not worth the "lack of accessories" price. I'm glad TSO is making the parallel guides though. Dust extraction is great - especially with your hole cover-thingy. The vacuum port does fit with many hoses and I'm happy they added the DeWalt twist lock hose compatibility. And finally, I never noticed the depth of cut because I always add a tiny bit more (don't care that it cuts into the insulation foam board. But then again, maybe that's why I started doing that! :)
Well said.
I’ve had my a DeWalt corded track saw for ten years. It has served me well and given the choices at the time were either a $600 DeWalt or a $1000 Festool, I regret nothing. I mostly use it to break down plywood. I over cut the pieces a little and then take them to the table saw for the final cuts. Yes, the blade changes are mystifying but I’m not going to replace my saw until it stops working. It still works like a champ.
Nice review. Seeing the rotation possible with setting the saw to the track I wonder if you have the saw at an angle to the track and the rear after following teeth one side are causing the roughness. I have always wondered why reviewers do not use some of the highly accurate engineering kit to test equipment. If a saw is meant to cut an inch deep, measure it. It the angle says 45degrees, then measure it. My small de Walt circular has the base slightly out of line with the blade, which is not easy to alter. Cutting against a long straight edge causes the saw to lock up after about 3 feet and become very difficult. Not too different to what you are experiencing. Again good measuring kit shows the problem. Test the blade to the guide, front and back and see if you are 20 thou out or so. This is more difficult to do, but good luck with it.
I understand what you are saying, but the saw was meant to cut more than 2" deep. It couldn't make it through a 2" piece of wood on it's max setting. He doesn't have to have a precision measuring tool to know that it's depth of cut is inaccurate since it couldn't cut 2" when set to it's max depth of 2 1/8".
Bought into DeWalt, and don't want to spend extra money on batteries for other platforms if possible. Still appreciate the critical, informative review. I'm sure each brand has areas they could improve on and DeWalt is definitely not an exception, so thank you for letting us know what we're up against.
Notes on DeWalt's marketing wankery concerning batteries:
Nominal voltage of the 60V Max system is 54v, nominal for 20V Max is 18v. The 54v batteries are really 3x 18v with either a series configuration for a combined voltage of 54v or parallel configuration for extended capacity which is annoyingly marketed on the 54v system to show the 18v combined capacity, not the 54v. So a 9ah 60V Max DeWalt battery is really a 3ah 54v battery or a 9ah 18v. Dumb marketing, really dumb, but also how DeWalt managed to not have to slot multiple batteries to the track saw.
Gotta ask how exactly were you able to figure out the battery voltages etc?? Please help me🙏. I own all Makita tools (They usually have the best quality materials in their tools that imho separate them from most competitors though admittedly not necessarily the best design and their main downfall by far is that their tools usually always cost significantly more) All that said here's my dilemma/question I desperately need help with) please respond back or anyone else reading this that is knowledgeable to answer PLEASE RESPOND
So I'm in need for a new miter saw and table saw. I'm only interested in the cordless setup after countless hours of research I'm shooting for Milwaukees 10" miter chop box and Milwaukees 8-1/4" table saw... Anyways here's my question to you finally.... What would be the issue "if any" if I add my Makita 18V LXT 5Ah battery's to the aftermarket Adapter that then slides into place where Milwaukees M18 battery "Redlithium HD8.0 or HD12.0" Would it matter? How can I figure out the voltage or whatever's needed so I can be sure I'm not damaging the motor or frying the saws?? Id actually even prefer Dewalts table saw right now since it's on sale but I've got no clue if it would work with my Makita batteries since their battery table saw takes "FlexVolt 60V Max 9.0 Ah". I'm curious if I found an attachment for Makitas NEW "40V Max XGT 4.0AH" be enough or would I have to buy makitas highest 40V Max XGT 8.0AH which is freaking😒$389 alone! Please PLEASE Respond back someone. I've got to figure this out. No I am not trying to just cave in and buy each brands battery and charger. I'm a loyal Makita guy and I would much prefer to get over on all of them for a change, than they getting over on all of us with todays ridiculous pricing! Thank You China for making the adapters which helps save our middle blue collar class Americans by-pass our unaffordable system. It's absolutely ridiculous how an average tradesman would have to struggle for many many months to pay off one's tools HAHHAHA yeah my fault 🤦♂️ for the little rant
@@BostonLoyalT The milwaukee HD8 and HD12 batteries are a massive step up over the 5ah batteries. They use 21700 cells vs the normal 18650 cells, a whole battery size up that has major improvements in current handling and capacity. It would be unwise to attempt to use the multi voltage packs with an adapter, it sucks but getting a battery or two means you're not using up your makita batteries as well. A single HD12.0 will last you a long time, my 5-6 year old 1st gen milwaukee 9.0 battery in a m18 fuel sawzall was able to demo an entire kitchen, 8 2x8 joists and 3 walls all on one charge while being used to cut conduit as well for a whole week. Unless you are just spending all day ripping boards on the table saw or mitering, I'd expect a single battery to last you most of a day.
@@BostonLoyalT good luck. I know you must use matching batteries for best performance. I would just buy a good extension cord, and forget batteries for large tools. It simply can't be worth the cost & effort unless you work in the deep woods. Battery powered motors under severe loads will have more problems, and shortened life if batteries aren't fully charged at peak loading. I have milwaukee, Dewalt, rigid, ryobi, and craftsman tools and batteries, as well as old ridgid and Milwaukee nickel cadmium battery tools. I buy when things are available, at yard sales and such, and buy new batteries as needed. Don't sell your soul to be loyal to one company. Especially festool. Good luck.
The DeWalt 20, and 60V batteries are called that to differentiate them from the old DeWalt 18V lithium, with the stub, which didn’t sell well because it was twice as expensive as their NiCad batteries, and wouldn’t charge below 35F, or above 100F. Which to the guys I knew working in LasVegas, was a huge issue. You don’t want to run your Diesel pickup all day just to have somewhere to charge their batteries.
@@BostonLoyalT DeWalt posts theirs in the fine print, I believe they're required to do so to avoid litigation for false advertising. Alternatively you could put a voltmeter on a fully charged battery or if you know the individual cell voltage you can math out what the pack should be. For the DeWalt stuff the info is pretty ubiquitous, you might just need to do some googling.
I bought the Milwaukee based on your review….I bought the 55” track and the 106” track. I am very excited to try this saw….have a huge plywood job to do on my home.
I own the corded Dewalt track saw and really like it. All of the things you didn't like about it are things you get used to and aren't a problem. The 102" track bends easily and I wonder if the Milwaukee track would be stronger. The hard push down start button is bothersome to me. having the cord come out the left side also can be a pain to deal with, but still better than carrying the weight of a battery and having the saw worthless when new battery tech makes it obsolete. My saw will last 30 years with medium light duty..... good video. new sub. thumbs up.
I am a precision sheet metal professional who instantly knows what is happening with the raising knife. (that's one of the names closed captions called it) Seeing the edge quality, I can tell it is a stamped sheet metal part. It also has a dimple formed on one end. The raw material is fed into the punch press from a coil, meaning it was never flat to start with, and every part is different as the coil diameter diminishes. Then there are the stresses from being stamped, adding more un-flatness. The dimple formation puts additional surface stresses, which are all unpredictable. Then there is a hole punched on the same end. All of that activity has changed the tension, causing the bowing mostly on that end. The bottom line is the manufacturer either ignored, failed to see the need, or forgot the need to straighten the part before plating it.
I was having trouble with the riving knife. It was working its way to the blade so I took it out. This is not one of my primary tools so I don’t use it much. After watching this video I decided to revisit the riving knife but first a blade change because I didn’t remember it being as difficult as you found it to be. I fought it and fought it following the instructions in the manual like a good boy. After some prayer (I should have done that first)
I figured it out. It only works when the saw is pushed down to full depth!! I had the the cutting depth limited to something less than full depth. The riving knife will have to wait for another day.
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
A master class in fixing what isn't broke.
A tool doesn’t have to be broken to not work well. A poorly designed tool is a broken tool.
The saw sounds ok for a weekender but not the guy who needs it daily. Too much time with the little things. Time is money and the quality of the cut is vital. Great review.
exactly. for $100ish more you get so much more efficiency and accuracy (and joy)
Thank You for a most thorough evaluation...You sold me on the Milwaukee.
Solid choice.
Glad I saw this video. As a DIYer, I'll never remember how to deal with quirks. I still don't know how you change the saw blade after your demo, nevermind in two years when I want to use a track saw again.
I have this saw, mostly because of the collection of other yellow tools sharing the same battery. But I am using it with Festool rails without any problems, including rail square and parallel guides for Festool rails
I just bought a DeWalt corded circular saw, which fits the same rails. The manual says the double sides serve to set one splinter guard for a straight cut, and the other for a beveled cut. I'll look into those TSO accessories, as I'd like to avoid having to get a table saw.
I have this saw and I use a Festool Track with TSO square and parallels guides, works great! No complaints here. Also not a "Dewalt fan-boy" but have a lot of their 20V and 60V tools, so it only made sense for me.
The riving knife on my DeWalt track saw was bent straight out of the box too
Come on! That’s trash. Thanks for sharing. I was wondering.
For narrow cuts on smaller pieces of wood, I think there’s still a great argument for table saws. However, I bought the Festool TSV 60 track saw with scoring feature and a CT MIDI Dust Extractor and the TSO Parallel Guide/Guide Rails. My SawStop will NEVER come close to the beautiful, finish ready cuts I get with this setup. Squaring my wood is incredibly easier as well and then knocking out repeat cuts. Buying this combo was literally addictive and building a complete Festool setup. And the built Bluetooth and plug on the dust extraction means my corded and cordless Festool products have the best and most convenient dust collection available. When you think about buying once and crying once, Festool is why!! ZERO regrets and never looking back!
When I was shopping for a track saw, the biggest concern I had was accessory compatibility. This ruled out the Dewalt immediately. Also, like you, I didn't see any value in the double-sided track. Aside from being pointless, it reduces the number of slots for rail joiners to one, which isn't enough. And as long as a 118" track costs as much as the whole saw did, I'll have to keep using two 55" tracks joined together for long cuts. I chose the Makita corded saw, and love it.
Yep same with mine. Used it yesterday. Rivot knife is so bent it stops the blade from plunging and track moves on the material im working on. I think im going to remove it today
Oh dang!! Ive had the dewalt 60v tracksaw since it was released. Everything you said was dead on (except I never had an issue with my riving knife). Ive pretty much adjusted to most of those issues you mentioned, but to this day, I still pull my hair out with blade change. I always seem to forget the process and have to go back to RUclips for instructions. Im a Dewalt guy, but when people ask, I tell them to go elsewhere or wait for Dewalts gen2
I could never understand why anybody needs a track saw at all, much less the latest and greatest to hit the market. I've been making my own track on jobsites, usually from scrap lumber, since long before track saws became a thing. I guess I'm just old school.
That's what I do. But, now retired, I wish I could justify a good tracksaw with accessories to do most of what table saws and mitre saws do. Faster, neater, less dust than circular saw with my own 'track'. My new corded Makita circular saw has a track attachment and works very well
@@cuebj If I was retired (soon, I hope), that would be justification enough 😁. I can see keeping a track saw with various length tracks stored neatly in a shop. I was thinking about jobsites, where the less tools I need, the better. Congrats on the retirement! 🎉🥂
Have you ever used one? It will change your mind.
@@ltandrepants No, never needed one. If I did more custom cabinet or high-end trim work, or if I had a workshop, then I could see investing in a good one. But for my work I would rarely use it.
I am so thankful i found your video. I just had to replace my Makita corded and was considering the Dewalt. I do not not have an issue with an extension cord tagging along so I did buy another corded Makita for a little under $400. BTW, I had to replace the Makita because I abused it by taking full depth cuts on 8/4 pecan slabs! It did well for a while but I burned it out eventually. Won't do that again.
Great video, I have been a furniture maker for 43 years.
1st, I love most all tools,
2nd as with most all people that use power tools, we mostly grew up with Dewalt tools and have an expectation of Dewalt being pretty good quality. What's amazing is you were so gentle and hesitant not to offend the Dewalt lovers, but the truth is the truth. Sorry for the haters you will get, but this is why I watch. Your honest. Thanks
Great video.
Saying the biggest flaw is not beeing able to use a square attachment while immediately showing that you actually can dosnt sound too honest ngl
The double sided track sounds very good to me. No need to flip the track back and forth when cutting beams etc
I think the coarse texture on one side of your cut would be the back of the blade dragging on that side. That in turn may be connected to the difficulty marrying the saw to the base. If it's a little scewed it would set the back of the blade against one side of the cut.
That makes sense
Yes, it reminds me of results I had been seeing on my table saw until I realized the rip fence wasn‘t perfectly parallel to the saw blade. Fortunately, it’s adjustable on my table saw.
The latest version of their corded saw, the DWE575 which has been on market for many years now, also has the blade slightly skewed out of parallel to the foot plate. There is absolutely no way to adjust it. It's good for framing, but I can't use any kind of cutting guide with it, including the little slide-in rip fence, because it tries to wander and ends up binding. I've used several of those saws and they all have the same problem.
I personally love the fact that the track tension knobs have a secondary lockdown screw. It would bother they ever love in the heck out of me if I had to keep adjusting those every time I took it off the track because they moved ever so slightly out of alignment.
Thanks for the review I'm on mechanic you kind of sound like a normal mechanical person I guess that's why you're a carpenter
I'm surprised more people don't appreciate the 2 sided track. It's been amazing for me. I don't like the 45 but really have never used it anyway. Always 45 on table saw. Took a while to get used to the odd hinge. Love the saw overall. Came from corded kreg and makita.
As for the cut quality I’m guessing the blade alignment is off. On my makita I took the time to set the back angle so the blade is ever so slightly (.003”) closer to the track on the from edge than the trailing edge. This way only on the up cut is your blade touching your finished part.
Not sure If others have said but your main gripe can be overcome by using a festool track (it works with other brands) the other thing is it is both a 60v and 18v battery well actually 54v but for some reason Dewalt markets them as 60v in America. It has a super cool switch inside converting it to 54v to be used in flex volt tools but also works in 18v tools.
The depth and angle gauges are definitely a big negative. I’m still tempted because it saves me having to have another battery platform.
Yep, Milwaukee's copy of the previous generation Festool is spot on. Pity it's the same price as the newest generation Festool in the UK. There's a reason that the yellow Black and Decker is the cheapest of the bunch...or several reasons, obviously.
I had the same issue with the riving knife on my corded DeWalt tracksaw! Real head scratcher. Spent an hour tuning it up and now the saw is extremely accurate. I much prefer the DeWalt over the Festool and Makitas that I have used quite a bit.
i have the corded version, didn’t see the point of going cordless when i’d have a vac attached to it anyway… unless you’re going to carry it around a lot and not use a vac… in any case, i have no complaints about it, it’s been very good to me and such a game changer that i barely use my table saw anymore.
You can use foam on the ground when needing to use this tool?
yep. just go 1-3mm further than material you're cutting
Strange maybe they revised it but my saw goes to 2 and 3/8" depth without rail. I removed the riveting knife day 1. The blade change is frustrating but you get used to it. I honestly didn't even know you could marry the track but when I checked after watching your video I guess I was lucky and it was already perfectly tight
Just a bit of info. DeWalt is a subsidiary of Staley Black & Decker. DeWalt is _assembled_ in the US from parts manufactured in Brazil, China and Mexico.
I have a wood working shop. I have retired and I just tinker around at the shop.
I think a track saw is nice but I don’t know if I would use it or not. They look great.
What do you use it the most on?
Mostly to cut down big sheets of plywood soon don’t manhandle them at the tablesaw alone. I’ll also use it to cross cut the ends of glue ups when making tables.
I am so happy you did this. Upstanding and outstanding, Drew. I’ll watch this again just so you get the view back.
Thanks Ryan! I will value your view more than the 6k I lost 😞
I’ll give you another one as well.
I think I see the advantage to the double hinge plunge system. Now understand I'm a Makita corded track saw user and I also own a Grizzly track saw as well and the one thing I've noticed about them vs this DEWALT is the fact that your wrist rotates to a different angle from start up to plunging and moving forward where as on the DEWALT your wrist angle stays the same. But this is just my observation.
Good thoughts. How about that grizzly!
@@wittworks it's good for the price personally. I changed the blade to a CMT blade. I mean it hooks to my festool dust extractor but still kinda dusty though. Other than that it not all that bad. I still use my Makita as my main unit in the shop and on the job site.
Thank you for this video. I have found as a tool nut, The best thing about Dewalt is there tool carry bags, because I can carry my Milwaukee tools in them and no one will steel them. LoL. but true.
SOOOOOO FUNNNNNYYYY
Never knew it didn’t exist. I made my own square for the Dewalt track about 10 years ago with a track connector and scrap of plywood.
And, DeWalt did make a protractor for their track. Don’t know if it is still cataloged.
Bench Dogs here in the UK make a rail square, repeat stops for the square and parallel guides that fit the Dewalt track, brilliant products!
I use dewalt corded track saw with festool midi vac so no need to worry about Bluetooth, I love the dewalt air lock system on the vacuum I run a festool domino with the same vacuum I much prefer the dewalt air lock to the festool system. The depth is a slight gripe but as a cabinet maker of over 20 years I have learnt to never fully trust a scale anyway so just get it set up correctly irrespective of what the scale says. My biggest issue with the track saw is the rail connecting two rails together is always a bit of a faf, could do with two straight parallel joining bars rather than one, find it is tricky to get it straight but again once it's set. it's set! Personally I prefer the tstak boxes over the festool I know I can stand on the tstak as the plastic is kinda rubbery and doesn't split if in the back of van etc the festool box I've never stood on mine as I'm pretty sure it would crack in a heartbeat also pretty sure the festool box will smash all to hell if you dropped it. on hindsight I should have gone mefell but for budget, and I'm already in the dewalt system.
I don't typically get my track saw out of the tool trailer. I do regularly need to make precise, very straight cuts but I almost always use a straight edge whether that be a clamp edge, 8 ft level or sometimes a 12' stick of MDF baseboard that has been jointed if necessary. The key is to always have at least one circ saw that you only use for precision cuts. Personally, I keep a Skilsaw in a separate lock box that is only for this purpose. It doesn't get used for anything else for any reason that way the shoe and blade alignment stays true. I have a Makita track saw setup that works very well but it doesn't produce better results than I can get out of the method mentioned above. What I WOULD like to have though is a track saw setup for a 4" wet circ saw. That would be helpful because using a secured straight edge with a wet circ saw is a different ballgame and it doesn't always work as well
I do the same. I have a worm drive skill saw with Ole Bessy written on the side. Only used for my precision cuts. Works great. A 10' level, two clamps, and a high quality blade is just as good as a track saw.
I bought this saw 4 years ago and love it. No riving knife problems, and from reading comments here it sounds like maybe they had a some sort of QC fail there. Your criticisms are all fair, just nothing that really bothers me when I use it. One thing that is probably another QC fail is the depth of cut, I do get the full depth cut they mention in the specs. That fact that you are not AND the depth stop is off could mean another QC issue, maybe with the plunge mechanism?
Good to know! It’s a recent saw, so my guess is a bad batch?
I own the corded version of this saw and, like you, have been frustrated changing blades and operating the depth gauge. I’ve been in search for a square for the Dewalt track for years. So thanks for the TSO tip. Despite the quirks, I think the saw is awesome. Although I might upgrade to the cordless version.
I’m glad I’m not the only one who found those functions difficult!
The cordless saw motor is 360W (60Vx6A), the corded version motor is 1300W. For sheet goods, that's probably not an issue, and the power cord is always in the way. If one is doing 2" cuts in hardwood, the corded one probably is a better choice.
@@johnhaller5851 great to know! Thanks
Festool tracks are definately the way to go. I accidentally dropped one off of my truck onto an entrance ramp of a busy highway. It got ran over all day (the metro area is a million people), and then I went looking for it after work. I found it and tried using it. It worked exactly like it was supposed it. Just a couple scratches on the face of it.
Sure it did buddy. I'm sure no one stole it after sitting out all day in million people traffic.
@@IliadDreyfus-js9oe I still have it and use it to this day. You can choose to believe it isn't true, but that doesn't make you correct.
I’ve had this track saw for a few years now no problems at all. I use the festool tracks better than the dewalt ones I think 👍
Good to know
Took me like 30 minutes to figure out how to change the blade on my new DeWalt job site table saw. They over think that! I LOVE my Makitas. They are so simple (as long as you don't loose the key!)
Couple things: Referencing the cut, Could that be due to a misalignment? As in, you have it assembled and aligned correctly, but the saw isn't holding up its end in terms of your accuracy being transferred through to the cut angle through the wood by the blade? More on this at the end. But spoiler, did your saw get dropped on its blade end?
With regards to the battery not being 60v, they are. There are 3 banks of cells in the flexvolt batteries. Using a 20v tool they are connected in parallel. In parallel is like stacking 2 AA batteries side by side with the terminals connected to the same bus, as in the two positive poles connect to the positive wire and same with the negative side. Two 1.5 volt batteries give you 1.5 volts out with twice the storage in amp-hours. If you take those two AA batteries and connect them tip to tail, put them in series, as in make connections between sequential positive and one negative terminals in the stack of batteries or banks of parallel cells, like in a TV remote or, more obviously, an old-school flashlight, the voltages stack. Two 1.5 volt batteries become 3v output with the same storage capacity. With a 60v tool the 3 banks of cells in a flexvolt battery are connected in series. The same battery has both connections, but the 60v tools can't take a 20v. Different terminals are addressed on the same battery by different tools. There's a lot going on in that battery terminal, which may be why they come with those locking red travel covers. If you need hands-on, visceral proof of the 60 (well, 54 really) volt nature of the flexvolt packs, get your hands on the 60v worm drive "skilsaw" rear handle circular saw. It's a beast, you should try that sometime if you haven't already.
Depth of cut: If you "account for" the track thickness, doesn't that mean that you include it in your ledger of measurements? Point is that while I am as pedantic as the next guy, if you simply measure the track and add that to the shown depth of cut, does it all add up? I mean, if you _accounted_ for the track thickness and all. I'm honestly not sure, and I can't say that I like dewalt's manuals at all, I never read them. This being the case if I just picked the saw up I would assume the depth of cut was as shown, in total, the protrusion from the saw by the blade at its max depth. It would almost seem like a liability and safety issue in case of misuse by the consumer. "The commute to work should only have taken 20 minutes, but accounting for traffic it took an hour". It's a terrible choice of words and the technical writers' ancestors are disappointed in them. It would have been pretty easy to come up with better words than "accounting for". Even just now I tried casually to google that phrase for meaning and all I got was financial considerations, and any accounting-ese language makes my eyes cross.
Some of the controls did seem very odd. The apparent ease with which you moved that one slide-y bit was disconcerting. The blade change system is quite unlike what one would expect, but again you read the manual there, and I'll repeat that I do not like their manuals, I feel your pain.
Finally, I guess I might have some questions about the origin of the saw. Was this like a mail order deal? I have chosen to get all my tools in person at a store, in doing so it seems to me that I get a little more quality control over handling of the packages before I take over. Your bent riving knife and the disparity between sides of cut and that floopy control slide and the etc., make me wonder if that tool was dropped on its head out of the black and yellow tree on its way to you. I don't believe that saw would have made it past QA in the condition you showed. I'd return the tool if I took it "new" out of the box and a piece of steel attached to the tool was bent as if someone had taken a small hammer to it at an awkward angle. Or dropped it, or accepted it as a turn in and sent it to the next guy. Or something. Right? Something doesn't add up.
I have the Dewalt track saw, and I use it almost every day. After figuring out how to change the blade😅. Everything else works just fine for me. I cut a lot of melamine with it, and it does a good job.
I've always used my Dewalt track saw for rough dimension cuts. I never rely on it for the final cut. I reserve that for the table saw. And I have not found a situation where I needed to do a full plunge cut.
Interesting. I recently bought the Makita SP6000J track saw and honestly, for me the cut quality is much higher than on my Dewalt 7485 table saw.
Most of the track saw blade is not parallel to the base, that's reason the off cut look smoother. I think they adjust it that way to prevent kick back.
I use this dewalt track saw and I’m very happy with it
It has so much power and cuts so smooth
It’s a very good saw but needed a lot of attention to meet my standards
I ended up removing the riving knife due to the same issue you were having
I also do not use the dewalt tracks
I use only Makita tracks with all TSO accessories
I know it’s a different saw than typical but it is very good
Good for you! I was impressed with the motor. I probably needed a better blade.
I'm curious if you have seen the same issue of a smooth offcut and marred keep cut as he had in video, and if so, was it rectified by putting a better blade on the saw, or adjusting how the saw marries to the track?
@@thepewplace1370
Proper calibration and a good blade makes all the difference for any saw
RE DeWalt’s 20V-60V batteries. The Dual voltage rating is achieved by switching between three 18V batteries, in series or in parallel. A large advantage of this setup, is that the DeWalt batteries can be shipped air freight because they are less than the threshold value for airfreight.
My Makita corded saw sounds just like yours does when it starts up. I never thought much of it.
Don’t know if anyone else’s has mentioned this, I haven’t read all the comments, but the dewalt will work on festool, makita etc guide rails, also, benchdogs make a nifty guide square for the dewalt guide rails. One more thing, the dewalt rails being able to cut on both sides means, you can use one side for 45 degree cuts and the other for normal cuts. Not saying the other makes aren’t better and I agree about the plunge depth guide being flimsy, but it is still a capable saw.
I have a Dewalt tracksaw as well. Do you find that you have to really tighten down the knobs on the saw that give friction to the track when you are marrying them together? I found that if I didn’t really bear down on them, I ended up with deflection. But if you tighten them a lot then it’s hard to push on the track.
The best part of those TSO parallel guides is the quick adapters for Festool guide rails. Instead of having to slide the parallel guides from the end then screw them tight, you just slap it down on the guide rail, when finished you just pick it up off the guide rail.
I know! I’m so impressed with the TSO engineers. Always blows my mind.
Good info here. Any chance you'll do a review on the new Ridgid track saw?
I've got the dewalt track saw. I think it's a pretty good thing to have on a job site. I had to buy the clamps for the tracks and track extension for ripping claddings. But I think the benefit of having all dewalt batteries with this saw is bonus. I have to say that I used to own a corded makita before, but the motor is nowhere as powerful, and the accessories wasn't as good as dewalt. If you want to do more precise woodworking, I think Festool is the way to go. But for using it on a job site I found that my dewalt is quite robust and lasting me a few good years so far.
I have the same problem with the riving knife being bent. Opened a case with DeWalt support. They told me i need to send the whole saw back to service shop. Crazy waste of my time and productivity. Otherwise very happy with this saw and the interoperability with Festool track was a bonus as the track accessories are more available.
I know that this review is a year old but I thought that it should be made clear that the Dewalt is also compatible with the Makita, Festool and the Evolution guide tracks. I’ve used mine on all three without issues. Though you do need to recut the splinter guard on any new track that you use it on.
The advantage of the Dewalt double sided track becomes apparent when making long cuts in a small environment. It can really save time not having to rotate a track in small space. This is maybe a niche use case but once i had experienced it, going back to traditional single sided tracks was a real pain in some situations.
I watched this video because I was having one or two issues with my Dewalt track saw (mainly vibration when cutting even a shallow depth). I would like to share what I found after going back to my garage to have a closer look. I took the blade out (the original 48T Dewalt blade) and found that on the back was a thick flat ring of burnt on rubber presumably from when I "initialised" the track and perhaps on a few subsequent cuts. The rubber was a real bitch to remove - had to use fine wire wool and spirit to remove it. Could not scrape it off with my fingernail, it was stuck really hard. Anyway, after giving it a really good clean including removing all the rubber deposits on the back side of the hardened teeth, the vibration was gone. So if you are having vibration problems please check this because the rubber is upsetting the balance of your blade.
great info! Thank you
It's more likely that the rubber on the blade causes friction, than imbalance.
@cromyjr1592 could be. Either way, it is a thing people should watch out for.
Concerning flexVolt batteries they operate in 2 modes. In one, parallel, it’s 18v with higher available amperage. In series, the battery produces 54v at a lower amperage. Higher voltage system have less overall loss when compared to lower voltage systems. I think it was a pretty good idea on dewalts part. There are also regulations about batteries on plans etc, that’s why the default unhooked setting is 18v instead of the 54v configuration. Operation in series is done when the battery connects to the appropriate tool.
If you want a linger cord no your Makita, just do as I did. I went to Menard's and bought a 25 ft. extension cord and removed the receptacle end and the original cord from my saw. Thread the extension cord through the rubber guide and reconnect the wires to the saw, replace the handle and you're ready to go.
I believe the results of cut you have along with bent part is the result of the saw having been damaged. Your saw is most likely misaligned due to it having been dropped. The fix is quite easy to do by loosing screws and realigning the base plate to blade. The depth of blade issue I believe is also the result of damage to the saw, as I own two models and do not see this in either unit.
Everything is not a big deal for you, but you just dont like nothing about the saw
This is a fair review ! have this cordless saw . and also the Festool system . I feel the power from the 60 volt system is unparalled ! The double sided track is a huge plus for me ! Flipping those long tracks is a pain. The quality of the track is reflected in the price .
I have invested heavily in the Dewalt 12/20/60 volt platform and almost equally as much in the Milwaukee 12/18 platform . I have both Milwaukee and Dewalt cordless tablesaw's ...Dewalt cordless hand tools are a bit lighter in weight , which as a pro makes a huge diff !
I have had motor problems with Flexvolt chopsaws , just days outside the warranty ...! Also have killed some Dewalt brushless impacts and was advised that the brushless tools can't be pushed as hard as the brushed ones !
I'm also a fan/ user of the TSO system . I ordered the Dewalt adapter !
Thanks for the heads up !
All my battery tools are all dewalt, I had high hopes for this track saw but having used my dads corded festool many times I couldn’t get myself to buy the dewalt. If I get a jobsite track saw I’ll probably either wait till dewalt revises it or just buy my own festool.
I don't know if this is a problem with other track saws, I don't own one, but my thought on the screws on the tops of the adjustment knobs is that maybe dewalt is trying to make sure that they can't go out of adjustment as easily.
Hello,
Just watched the video about the Dewalt 60v track saw and appreciate all the info.
I have a corded Makita tracksaw and several rails including the 118in rail.
However I have switched from cordless makita tools to Dewalt mainly due to availability. I have a Bomgaars store near me and they have amazing deals on Dewalt.
I now have about 40 Dewalt 20v tools and a couple 60v tools so in the field cordless is my go to so I am looking to add the Dewalt track saw. I agree some of the shortcomings of this saw are not you being nitpicky, Dewalt should have done better. But, for me, the matching battery platform will outweigh those shortcomings. I like the idea of having one charger and being able to swap batteries from tool to tool. I'm glad to hear the Dewalt will fit on the Makta track so I can just buy the bare tool.
One thing that confused me that you said was that Dewalt was marketing this saw as a 60v but it was just an 18v. Maybe you meant it truly a 54v?
Anyway, thanks for the indepth review!
I had same thing with the this splitting knife... I think its with all of them. I had to dismantle it aswell it also was scratching the surface...
From what I see with the cut quality shown on the Maple, You are getting the rough cut on the main part of the Maple because the blade is not perfectly in line with the track. What is happening is the trailing part of the blade it "up-cutting" the face and taking more material off the previously cut face from the front of the blade.
Not sure if you did change the blade before cutting but, a possible reason why the depth of cut is inaccurate could be that the blade itself is not exactly the right diameter. If it is less than the standard diameter then the depth of the cut will be shallower.
Did you make your 2 inch depth cut with the CMT blade? Because they are 6.49 inches or 165mm, which would explain why you didn't get a full 2 inch cut.
Understand and agree. What saw do you recommend?
I just purchased this today and was curious if you should wax the tracks with Minwax paste wax or just leave it be?