The video I wish I watched before buying a SHELIX
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
- Background: I installed a new Byrd SHELIX cutterhead (www.byrdtool.com) in my DeWalt DW735 thickness planer, and I learned some important things in the process. My mistake is already made with regards to buying the undersized head rather than the OEM, but hopefully this video helps you make a good purchase decision. If you find the information helpful, please take a few minutes to watch some of my other videos to help support the channel, or you can send me a tip at ko-fi.com/thesnekkershow (accepts PayPal).
😃 The SHELIX installation video is here: • The video I wish I wat... 😃
I also have an Instagram page where I post pictures of things I build:
/ thesnekkershow
Related to the power testing:
If you want to see an internal view of how a household circuit breaker trips and understand a little better how the results of the power tests were even possible on a 20-amp circuit, I'd recommend this video: • How Does a Circuit Bre... .
If you want to see an internal view of the DW735 circuit breaker, see how it works, and watch it get overloaded, watch this video: • Replace a circuit brea... .
It's also helpful to be familiar with circuit breaker trip curves. While circuit breakers may vary by brand, design, and age, the chart on page 2 of this PDF is a good reference. For example, a multiple of 2 on a 20A breaker (meaning 40A) should cause a trip somewhere between 30-100 seconds. download.schneider-electric.c...
On the topic of voltage drop, starting with the original setup with a 15 foot, 12-gauge extension cord located 20' from the breaker panel, it was approximately 120v before starting the motor, 119v after, and dropped to 115v while planing 8” wide maple. Then I plugged directly into an outlet right next to the breaker panel and got 120v, 119v, and 117v. There were some minor fluctuations between test sets, but those numbers are a good summary of the results. Amperage was maybe 1 or 2 higher using the extension cord, but still around 25-27 for both.
These are some of the tools and accessories shown in the video:
▻ DW735X Planer (with tables and extra knives): amzn.to/2N9xSgl
▻ DW735 Planer (without extension tables): amzn.to/3rKT5vL
▻ DW7351 Extension Tables: amzn.to/2LrYDfs
▻ Klein CL800 clamp meter: amzn.to/3ieWwY8
▻ Klein 69409 Line Splitter: amzn.to/2N9yKBD
▻ Klein CL120 Kit: amzn.to/3bNMa02
▻ Rockler 4” x 2' stretch hose: amzn.to/3bDOXsH
▻ Rockler 4” x 4' stretch hose: amzn.to/38VGuQ5
▻ Rockler threaded disconnect fitting: amzn.to/3nW9mvu
This video is not sponsored. I paid for everything and used my own time. As an Amazon Associate, I may earn a small commission if you use these links to make a purchase.
Process: I filmed using a Samsung Galaxy S10 phone at 4k 60 FPS. The audio was mostly recorded using a Rode Wireless Go with a Rode lavalier microphone, and also Rode VideoMic Me for the noise-level comparison. The video editing was done with CyberLink PowerDirector 19 (365). The computer is a Dell XPS 8930 with a 6-core i7 8700, 32 Gb or RAM, and a GeoForce GTX 1070, and it still sounded like an airplane taking off while it was processing 45Gb of raw footage into this 11Gb finished product.
Chapters (hover over the slider bar in the video)
0:00 Introduction
2:22 SHELIX cutterhead overview
4:26 Is the upgrade a wise investment?
7:05 Smaller diameter or OEM diameter?
13:21 What if I already got the smaller diameter?
14:48 Noise-level comparison
16:47 Power-draw comparison (main test)
31:54 Will a SHELIX void my planer warranty?
37:01 Finish test with different types of wood
42:35 Power-draw comparison (bonus information)
44:11 Blah blah blah the video is almost over
Congratulations on reading all the way to the bottom. Fun fact: This video resulted in Byrd Tool Experts (a distributor of Byrd Tool Corp products) contacting me for an interview, which you can see here: byrdtoolexperts.com/the-snekk... 
Хобби
After numerous questions and comments about amperage measurements and circuit breakers, I decided to disassemble the original circuit breaker from this planer and overload it with twice the rated amperage: ruclips.net/video/24f-J0lVo-E/видео.html. Thanks for keeping me on my toes and challenging anything that doesn't sound right, it makes this channel a lot more interesting for all of us.
Fun fact: This video resulted in Byrd Tool Experts (a distributor of Byrd Tool Corp products) contacting me for an interview, which you can see here: byrdtoolexperts.com/the-snekker-show-interview
If you're looking for an installation video, your search is over: ruclips.net/video/8J0rvBi8a0k/видео.html
Sorry for being late to the party. So to clarify, are you certain that the amperage was 27 amps? and 31 amps for the different cutters?
Okay, I just found the video where you clarify and prove the amperage draw very clearly here: ruclips.net/video/24f-J0lVo-E/видео.html at 21:00 minutes.
There is a tremendous load on a tool that has to remove that much material, versus a tiny 3/32" wide saw blade. I measured my Grizzly 1 1/2 horsepower, 17 amp, 120 volt table saw motor. The measured current was only 10 amps with no load on it.
This explains why I was able to use my table saw for hours at at time on really old knob and tube wiring in my old farm shop. The rating on the motor is obviously the "full load" current. My mind is blown, that a planer can draw 30 amps and be rated for 15 amps full load current.
I bought a Shelix cutter head but haven't installed it yet. Do you know what is the torque spec for those little carbide knives?
@@richardseifried7574 Covered at around 27 minutes into this video: ruclips.net/video/8J0rvBi8a0k/видео.html
We recently lumbered a 36" maple, a 36" white ash, and a 32" pecan. After drying, we tried planing with a Rigid (Home Depot) 13" planer with 2 HSS knives ruclips.net/user/postUgkxIzvvTi3_Qc8JnVdYYRJCvuoDC4QjTzeL . This job was clearly too much for that machine. The pecan was particularly difficult, due to heavy mineral deposits, and a sharp pair of HSS knives would be consumed by a mere 3 boards. We were also having lots of problems from chip bruising, due to poor dust collection. The shavings came off like straw and jammed in the 4" hose.We bought the DW735 simply to be able to run carbide blades, which worked brilliantly for the pecan. However, we found it to be a much, MUCH nicer machine. It was far more rigid than the "Rigid" planer, and far more accurate as well. But what I liked most about it was the dust feed. This machine has its own blower, which shreds the "straw" like shavings as they come off the cutting head and helps boost the shavings into the dust collection system. No more clogs! It's also nicely sealed so that the internals stay quite clean. This is just a well tempered machine that's a delight to use. It literally cut the labor in half. Just another example of getting what you pay for.
Thank you for that important information. I'm planning on working in hardwoods. Currently I work in redwood mostly
Spiral cutters are a nice upgrade and offer a smoother cut, but are also known to require a little more power vs the three blade cutters due to the space in between the 3 blades allows for free spin on the cutter head whereas the spiral cutter blades are constantly engaged in the material thus requiring an added amount of draw on the Amps.
It's the same reason PWM (pulse width modulated) circuits draw less power. It's very fast on/off/on/off. Which is essentially what you get with the OEM knives.
I’ll probably never install a Shelix in my DeWalt planer, but I learned a ton that I didn’t know about my planer just by watching. Thank you!
One of the best reviews I have seen on YT. Factual, competent, detailed and objective. Thank you.
Im more blown away at your testing than the actual planer differences
This is the most informative perspective on the Dewalt 735 planer I have seen yet. Thank you for being so thorough and covering info that most just overlook.
Just watched the interview you linked. I just stumbled upon your channel last week and I just wanted to express my gratitude as a new woodworker. The way you explain the why’s with everything you do is extremely helpful. It is evident you enjoy teaching and you do it well. I’m looking forward to seeing new continent, but am equally excited to go back and watch your other videos. Thank you!
Thank you, and welcome to the channel.
8:15 - "Some people find that to be a huge pain in the neck." As a retired machinist, I laughed at this. I've routinely rotated inserts on facemills, some had up to 20 inserts. It only takes a few seconds for each one. Facemills, endmills, drills, etc. You just do it and get on with the job.
As a Machinist by day and Furniture carpenter by night, this also made me laugh!
I sure appreciate you posting up this video. I was very much surprised. I would have expected the planer with the bigger, stock head to use more power than the planer with the smaller diameter Shelix head. Very interesting results for sure!
This guy is no stranger to logical reasoning
Oh, man do I ❤ his humour: "If I wanna run a ham sandwich through one of these, I'm gonna do that." 🤣
Great video - appreciate your diligence - Kudos.
The dance moves are funny, good example/ demo with blades and power outage.. thanks for the learning experience and fun !! :)
Very informative, thank you for taking the time to run through all these tests for us.
You're quite welcome.
Wow. This was the most comprehensive and analytical review of a home hobbiest product I’ve seen. Thx very much for an excellent vid.
As a retired test engineer I appreciate the thoughtfulness and thoroughness of your tests. Concerning the difference in amperage readings between the newer DW735 with the three blades vs. the elder with the Shelix heads: The difference might not all be in the type of heads betwixt the two machines.
Simply, the age disparity between the two machines might make up much of the differences in current draw per task. Bearing wear and tear, for one factor, might introduce enuf friction to cause much of the increased current required to do the same task as the newer machine. It would be most appropriate to compare the differences between the two heads (using your same methodology) on the same machine... either machine will do. That is to say: Either put the original cutter knives on the older machine and rerun the tests--OR--put the Shelix head into the newer machine and repeat.
This procedure ensures that there is only one variable in play between the A-B testing... only the cutter heads are different.
This has been brought up a few times, and I haven't tested it yet, but I doubt that three years of hobby use would cause enough wear on the motor or bearings to account for such a large difference in power draw. Having said that, I've been wrong before, and I'm sure I'll be wrong again. If I ever switch back to the OEM knives, I'll try to remember to take some before and after measurements.
If the bearings caused that much extra draw, they would get pretty hot pretty quickly.
Well thought out
@@genebruce6321 the table might not be as smooth as in a new machine. Drive belts state and tension can also have something to do with power consumption.
In addition to comments already made, DeWalt might use a better quality motor. Who knows what component parts they source based on what's available at any time?
This was a great video. Very informative and It proved helpful in my decision to purchase the helical cutterhead. Thanks Snekker.
I have to say this is the most well thought out video I've watched in a long time. You paid attention to volume (most don't) and your process was spot on when comparing both units. I wish everyone could learn from you how to make a good informative video. Thanks for your time.
I give your comment five stars, Mr. Critique. Don't watch my older stuff.
100% agree.
When I read I title, I thought - typical RUclips click bait.
Then I saw it was 45 mins long. Thought - this could go either way.
Extremely good video. Explained what needed to be explained, could skip through what was blah blah to me, but all the way through it was informative and stayed on point. Thank you.
Extremely surprised on the amp draw. For me, it was jaw dropping. I'm in the process of refurbishing an older 12" jointer and swapped out the 4.5HP 3 phase motor for a Baldor 5HP single phase (230V). It's rated at 20 amps but planned on running 10 gauge wire for the outlet. Eventually the outlet will also power a [220v~240v] planer. After seeing this I think I'll go with 8 gauge from panel to outlet.
Thumbs up because you invested in the video by buying two units ..got to admire anybody who puts skin in the game
i like this guy. he's doing some due diligence. respect.
Very good video with a lot of useful information on both the planer and the Shelix cutter. Thanks
Thank you for this (probably the best) comparasition, you touched definitely all topics!
Thanks for the updated video and caution about undersized vs. OEM. BTW, great that you compost, but be sure to add lots of greens/grass clippings to offset all that sawdust (super high in carbon) :-)
I really appreciate you making this video. It answered a lot of questions. I recently bought the dewalt as my 25 year old delta was getting tired... or maybe I was getting tired of it 😉
I solved the tear out problem years ago by buying a thickness sander. I go to the sander with my material .0625" thicker than finished dimensions and take .015" per pass.
As a small furniture maker the extra effort guarantees me a perfect product with no tear out.
I subscribed to your channel after watching this first video... well done!!!
Glad I stumbled on this. Very interesting. Confirmed my thought that planers with helix cutters should be spun on minimally 240v induction motors. Been on the fence about this same Dewalt or just overhauling my very very old currently not working Powermatic 5hp planer and this demo tipped the scale. So, rolling up my sleeves and getting to work on the old planer.
Great work and information! Thank you.
You and these videos are the primary reason I bought a SHELIX cutter head for my still new in box 735X! Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback. It's good to hear it was useful.
Thanks for doing this video. I upgraded to a similar head (Lux), that's essentially the same as the Shelix. The end result is a much better finish, and the planer seems to have an easier time planing all boards vs the stock head. I don't doubt that the upgraded one takes more power, but while on my stock head I routinely blew a breaker, I haven't done so with this one yet. Expensive, but truly a great upgrade for the shop. Planing is now more of a pleasure vs nail biting anxiety time ;)
Yes, it’s simply not intuitive to me that a cutter that more evenly distributes the load to the motor would ever draw more current than a cutter that essentially pulses the loading. The louder sound of the straight cutters should have been indicative enough. As a final test, because the results were not intuitive (and he actually seemed to make that point), I think he should/could have switched the cutters between the two machines to remove the two base machines as a source of variance. Although the planers were the same model, it’s not to say that the 2020 model could not have had internal improvements to the drive or the motor, eg.
You’ve got me thinking bout my future shop wiring as much as blades.
VERY informative. I too upgraded to the Shellix but I did so on my 8” Grizzly joiner. The 16” Grizzly planer came with the Shellix but it also came with a 5 hp 220V motor. The Joiner came with a 3 hp 220 motor. I did find that the joiner loaded down more with the upgraded Shellix. The planer with the larger stock motor did not have any problems even with more aggressive depth settings.
I remember watching the first video. It was good. This remake is even better. Now I know to get the full size cutter head and also to upgrade the amperage on the planer circuit. Thanks for all your work.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great info on the OEM & Undersized cutters. Totally SHOCKED at the amp draw. Glad I have a new 20 amp line in the shop.
Any tool will draw excessive current if you overload it, which was the case here. A full turn of the height adjustment handle is generally too much for any hardwood. I do 1/4 turn increments and 1/2 turn at the most.
Great answer to which Shelix to buy - the down sized or the OEM. You explained the challenges with the undersized version perfectly. Thank You!
You're quite welcome.
I LOVE how you challenged the response on warranty. I am often frustrated with hotlines of large companies & the lack of transparency and personal responsibility. Definitly inspiring. You got yourself subscriber even just for that. ❤
Thanks for commenting, and welcome to the channel.
Checking different planers & greatly appreciate your video packed with relevant info. Thank you very much.
I love it, i explain to my wife on a regular basis i could use two planers. She isn’t biting yet, but i am coming up with new and creative ideas to justify having a second one :) I am enjoying the channel and puns. Thanks for taking the time to do this comparison on a serious note. I am in SE Asia and it is challenging to get the parts to show up, not to mention the mark up. So this information is welcomed and yes the original TR was much better than the newer one, although I didn’t mind watching the second TR. Quaid start the reactor… is priceless.
I thought about getting a helix cutter for my dewalt p[laner. I asked a dewalt service center rep if it really was as good as they claim. this is what he said " if you put that cutter on your machine then you void the warranty.'. He invited me into the back and showed me about a half dozen machines with burnt out motors. This planer is not made to handle the extra load one of these cutters puts on it. He said' if you have a belt driven machine like a jointer or a large size planer that is not a problem'. I stay with the standard blades.
Very interesting and informative! Thanks for the video!
I just came across your video. I see it is almost two years old but just the same I am in the market for a planer and it was very insightful. I wish I had seen it sooner because I have several ham sandwiches that I want to plane and didn't know you could do that. Thanks so much for the help.
The first day the wife and the kids are out of school and here I am watching a toy.. Err tool review video...
This stuff is like heroine to me as I now need another bump..
I also did not miss your complaint about having to get a redundant tool, Darn...
Well at least I know what will be my birthday wish this year.
Excellent video!
Years ago when I made roll top desks and other furniture for a living I had the pleasure of using a 52” planer with a whisper cut head which is real similar to the shelix. It was real quiet and very aggressive w no tear out. Could take off 1/2” at a time on 12” poplar.
Wow, I bet the lights in the surrounding neighborhood dimmed when you turned that on.
Excellent discussion! Well conceived, organized, thorough, and intelligently delivered. I installed a Shelix head on my 8” jointer and had planned to upgrade my DeWalt planer next. I already decided to go with the OEM size head and you confirmed my decision. I was thinking about your discussion of the warranty matter and I think that you also need to consider the entire drive train of the cleaner that is under higher stress which results in the motor drawing higher amps. So there’s more than just the motor in the thermal overload breaker to be considered I think.Thanks!!
Good to hear, thanks for the feedback.
Really appreciate this updated video, well done, cover some good stuff, thanks for sharing it.
Thanks for the informative video. The demos were well done
Why I like the Shelix... Better chip extraction. The Shelix creates smaller chips than straight knives that are easier to extract. Easy and quick to change to a new cutting edge. But most importantly is the vastly improved cut quality over straight knives especially on woods with difficult grain.
And there is why he is drawing more amps from the Sheila head it is doing more cutting/revolution thus smaller chips.
Well, I'm definitely getting the OEM. Thanks.
What really helps is how unusually comfortable this guys voice is lol, i went from- "wow 40+ min vid.." to" 👀.. oh its almost over.." 😂
was about to buy a planer with this cutter head and this video was absolute gold to help me with my decision thank you very much.
Same here; get the Jet for about $150 more; comes with helix from factory...
Can't wait to see you run a ham sandwich through the planer. Its like Sweeps Week for RUclips, come up with the most outrageous content possible in order to draw in viewers. Ham Sandwich please!
Thank you for being so thorough and it gave me alot to think about. I am in the process of buying a planer, Dewalt was my first choice and after watching the test i think Dewalt will be my choice because of your review. Still i`ll research further but you help me out with your testing. Again Thank you
Glad it was helpful.
Really good knowing the power draw. I’m going to test all my equipment. I’ve planed walnut infrequently but that hasn’t tripped my 15A breaker.
Thank you for pro's, cons, and lessons learned 👍🏾 great in depth video that's rasy to follow
Great job
I have a 735x on the way
Already had the spiral.
So I’m excited on the savings
Turns out I made that up. I bought this planer and a jointer.
Jointer was spiral
This is straight
Oh well
The best review and comparison I’ve seen on here! Great job dude thank you for taking the time and showing the difference in power draw as well as planning surface quality! I’ve been through 3 of these planers this past month, the first one made a crazy rattling / death bearing motor noise after a dozen cuts as well as constantly got stuck with pine and cedar ( both had a decent bit of knots, never took cuts deeper than 1/32 at a time ) . The second one was ok at first, then I had to plane 9 cedar deck boards that were 8’ long. They had a decent bit of knots all the way down the board, and would constantly get so stuck that I had to push them through by hand with insane amounts of force. I thought cedar was soft… I guess any knots and it’s a no go. The rollers wound up getting worn out unevenly and even with pine that had minimal knots, it would constantly get stuck! I have not had a single dewalt tool let me down as much as this one. I had to force the cedar boards through because I needed to get the job done for a client ( custom shutters for their house ) Otherwise I would have stopped right away. The only culprits I could think of is; knots, and maybe a slight cup on some of the boards. I check to make sure thickness was the same all the way down on all these boards, made sure they were clean, made sure my rollers were warm, etc etc. The only thing is that I didn’t wax the bed.. I’m on the third one now which I just got yesterday and I’m honestly at the point where if I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong I will give up and save my money to buy a bigger floor model planer. Any insight? Could it really be the knots + cupped wood? It’s cedar.. I thought that was softer wood, it did not have as many issues with pine although it did get stuck when planning wide (12”) boards. Please someone give me the rule of thumb on knots etc .. I’m bummed . These cost $800 in Canada.. not cheap especially for someone just starting to seriously get into this hobby while working for min wage. I’ve seen other videos where people plane wood with knots , and even in yours you managed to plane that small live edge piece which looked like it would be difficult, mine would just get stuck right away lol. Also it had a lot of snipe all down the board, and wouldn’t get stuck specifically where there’s knots, it was almost random and all down the board.. I hope this one works 😭😭 I even built a table for it already too..
Knots are nothing but end grain, and I've planed entire end-grain cutting boards with no major issues aside from power consumption. I'm guessing, of course, but it sounds like it could have been a couple different things:
If boards are an uneven thickness, they can get stuck partway through. If that happens, turn the crank to raise the body until the board starts moving again. This happens to me all the time, especially when planing rough lumber right after jointing. Also, since wood moves more across the width than across the length, knots tend not to shrink as the board dries, and can protrude enough to make the board jam.
Deck lumber sometimes has a higher moisture content, especially if it was stored outside. Wet wood doesn't slide across the bed as easily as dry wood. Waxing the bed is very important. The same motor that turns the cutterhead also powers the impeller and the feed rollers. Too much drag on the bed will rob power from the other functions.
Pine and cedar are soft and sappy. You are probally building up sap residue on your blades.
Very interesting test! Thank you for doing this!
My pleasure
Nice work. Thanks for this!
Very thorough and enlightening comparison. The amp draws with the stock planer call the soundness of the entire design into question over the long haul. One point I think your viewers should consider is that the replacement heads give the manufacturer a reason to say "no" to warranty coverage, like the first response you got from Dewalt, which really was the same as the second. I think this would be especially true with the Shelix, given the fact that Dewalt probably has tested their amp draw as well. I could be wrong, but there is certainly an argument that the heads affect the motor because of the amp draw. This was the best video I'm aware of on this topic. Very much worth the remake. Thanks.
This is a very interesting video and comparison especially because I'm also an electronics engineer. As was previously mentioned, there are issues with the differences in age of the bearings, wear-and-tear, etc with the older planer. How much of a difference, or to what extent those differences would have a direct correlation to amperage draw is hard to say. Since one machine is from 2017 and the other from 2020 (I think that's what you said), there would obviously be differences between the two machines in terms of "burn-in", meaning that all mechanical aspects of the system are more or less "settled" (though of course, nothing in a mechanical system is ever permanently settled). Another consideration would be the possible differences in the motor efficiency between the older machine and the newer one: I doubt DeWalt would be willing to provide any quantitative numbers on either machine's motors in terms of efficiency based on their respective serial numbers (which could be traced directly back to a production run, etc). If the newer machine's motor (and other machines going forward) reflects a slight design improvement that increases its efficiency to do work, how would anyone know, except DeWalt perhaps. Also, there may be some unknown "minor improvement" in some other parts of the the system that could yield less stress on the motors and so produce less current draw. Too many unknown variables. Since your first machine has been in use, it's probably not a good test candidate to use as a DUT (Device Under Test) in a comparison because of the previously mentioned use/wear-tear issues. It would be more accurate to make a comparison between two of the same model machines, from the same manufacturing runs - if that's even possible, which I doubt - that are newly purchased together, and from the same vendor. But there could still be a question on the efficiency of the motors between two of the same machine, so purchasing two new machines is not a perfect solution, not to mention a costly one. It would be less costly to simply swap blades, i.e. put the stock blades from the newer machine into the old machine and see what the results produce, and visa-versa, put the helix blades into the newer machine and see what that produces then compare the results. Though this was not exactly a scientifically accurate comparison, I still think the comparison was revealing enough and was a very interesting video. Thank you for taking the time and effort to do this. And I hope you find use for the 2nd planer! By the way I am thinking of purchasing the very same DeWalt planner so not only was your video interesting and informative, I learned that there are after-market Helix blades (who knew!) and a bit about the internals of that planner as well ! I look forward to some of your other videos !
Louis ck made it easy to understand the pros and cons of this upgrade, thanks!
This is a great video. Excellent information! Thank you!
I've had the same experience as far as circuit load. However, it was simple to manage; I just take smaller cuts. It cuts so much nicer, especially on figured grain, that it's no contest. The Shelix wins hands down, every time.........
what limit were you able to pull off per pass, at least a 16th right?
Very well explained!! I also have the older model and have picked up several sets of blades on sale so I'll probly go through them before I upgrade to the Shelix!! Great video!!!
I think I purchased mine back in 08 and it still works well for my needs. I don't use it often, but I've run everything from Walnut to African Mahogany to Purple Heart, and even Ipe. It's a slow process, but the machine works. If I were to offer anyone advise it would be to take your time and enjoy the process. This thing is anything but fast. I run with the OEM Blades and trash them when they're done. Before this planer I had a 22,000 lb Oliver Stratoplane, that's a different story. I enjoyed your comparison. Extremely well done! Thank you.
Great video, thank you. You do a very good fact based analysis. I like your style.
I don’t mind removing the cutters. I would do that regardless. Thank you for this video. I went through 6 blades within a couple weeks. I don’t usually work with pine, but I have had a few customers who were wanting used lumber for their furniture. I always remove all nails, staples, and fasteners and run a strong neodymium magnet along the board prior to planing. However, I have been running into boards with aluminum nails. It is extremely frustrating.
I wrecked 2 bandsaw blades. So I bought a metal detector on Amazon, the same as the tsa use. Saved me a lot of money because I use a lot of reclaimed wood. Able to find many dinky pieces of steel.
One more reason why the current is higher on the Shelix - is that there is overlap between the cutter head squares so as to not leave a line between them. So in effect you have more inches of knife edge hitting your board on each pass thus increasing the friction as the cutters pass across the board. Friction = Power draw! Based on everything you have said and what I understand I would still vote for the shelix every time! The sheer reduction of cutter head replacement and hassle it worth it! Thanks for the video! liked !!
The amount that overlaps will still only get cut once, despite being passed over by two different cutters. There might be a tiny amount of friction that the second cutter imparts as it grazes it, but I think that would be a negligible contribution to the current draw.
@@trevorlambert4226 so you admit it would be a LITTLE more current. I am interested in your explanation for the additional current?
@@advancednutritioninc908 the surface area of the wood being cut is a fixed dimension,shouldn't matter if there is overlap in cutters as far as load is concerned.
@@jeremymyers5643 You could be right, but I was thinking there could be more cutter area rubbing the wood if there was significant overlap. More friction, more drag, more motor current.
I have the 734. No option for smaller cutter, so I had to pull out all of the inserts. It's not the end of the world. I carefully used an impact driver and the screws came out easily. I also stuck a wixey dro on my lunchbox and it's an absolute dream to use now 👌
The movie reboot reference was great, btw 😆
I'm just a hobby woodworker, so I'm curious about the cost and if you have advice for a new planer? Thx
Thank you for this video. It was a great explanation if the differences.
If your planer rate of feed is not adjustable, the increase in the amp test is partly because cutter edges pf the smaller diameter roller cutter is effectively traveling at a lower speed (FPM) and as a result is taking a larger bite per revolution, thus loading the cutting edge slightly more. Also, that style carbide cutter does not have the same type of razor edge as your standard planer blades; it is a slightly less sharp edge. If you run your finger along a planer knife edge length wise , it will cut you, those carbide inserts will not. Not a bad thing, but it answers the questions of why the motor sounds different and the amp draw is higher.
Excellent insight. I'd like to see the same test with the OEM diameter to match surface speed.
I somewhat disagree with the sharpness comment, as a machinist I fully understand edge prep on carbide but cutters such as this or high positives for aluminum work and generally dead sharp. Carbide deff can be as sharp as steel its just not the norm for metal work.
@@lockgessner Can be, yes, but as a general rule carbide inserts aren't as sharp as high speed steel tooling. It's quite uncommon for them to be sharpened from the factory. Typically they are molded and sintered and the shrinkage during the sintering process is what passes for sharpening (reduces the radius of the edge). As many (notably Stefan Gotteswinter within the RUclips / Instagram machinist community) have shown, you can sharpen your inserts to be every bit as sharp as high speed steel, but you have to actually sharpen them. Stefan built a low speed diamond lapping machine for that purpose. It is unlikely that anyone will be taking the time to sharpen all of their carbide inserts on all faces for a Shelix planer head.
I think there may be one other reason for the amp draw. Earlier in the video he said that the smaller Helix roller causes the plainer roller to push down more. That could create enough resistance to cause the amps to increase. Also look at the amps when he turns the machine on. The Helix roller rest amps are lower compared to the original roller rest amps. Why is that? Or maybe I’m just talking out of my ass because I really don’t know.
I think you’re spot on. I think the sharpness is the more important factor, though. One is an actual knife, with a 25 degree (or so) cutting edge, while the other is a carbide cutter with a 60ish degree edge. That makes the carbide cutters FAR more durable, but they will not slice as well. It’s like trying to slice a tomato with a razor sharp axe vs a razor sharp kitchen knife. They will both cut it, but the thinner edge on the knife will do it with less effort.
If horsepower is not a concern, and you have a 10hp motor, who cares about a little more effort? But when you have a 1-2hp motor, it makes a difference.
Excellent video. I am not generally interested in power consumption comparisons, because they are mostly focused on running cost. I was losing interest until I realized how the consumption compared to my breakers. THEN this became seriously interesting. Even after reading the comments here, I'm still confused about why the breaker didn't trip. The sizing differences of the spiral head was hugely non-intuitive, and I'm so glad you shed light on it. Thank you.
The video I linked in the description does a pretty good job of demonstrating, but the short version is that most breakers trip because of heat, not a number. 15 amps for 30 minutes could generate more heat in the breaker than 30 amps for 1 minute.
@@TheSnekkerShow Heat, consumption, time, breaker specs (reaction time, (slow vs. fast) etc.) See link below for some graphs and dead-simple examples.
I added the same shelix head to my Dewalt DW735 a couple of years ago. Makes a very big difference.
Outstanding Video! You have made the decision to buy this machine with an OEM SHELIX cutterhead AND the standard three blade head EASY! This will be a portable upgrade (sort-of) from my 40 year old Foley-Belsaw 5HP 240 VAC monster! Thank you for your thoughtful and technically informative video.
I would have liked to have seen the draw on your old machine before you switched the blades but that said a VERY good video. Personally as I would not throw out the original blades if I upgraded it, if it went wrong and I needed to return it I would just put the original blades back in first.
I wonder if the higher power draw and RPMs are possibly explained by the smaller diameter of the cutter. The smaller diameter will have a lower moment of inertia unless it is significantly heavier. It will also require more torque to provide the same force on the cutting surface. It would be interesting to repeat the test with the OEM diameter cutter.
I agree... also where the amp meter didn't really change much when wood wasn't going through I suggest part of the difference may be manufacturing differences in the planers themselves or just age/wear. Sometimes manufacturers have to switch up suppliers, and there could be a 4-5amp difference between those motors. Wear and tear - sawdust and bearing age both in the motor and blade could well account for it as well. Even if it's a PITA, true test would be swapping the blades and running the test again...
Fantastic video, man. Very informative.
Excellent video! I was going to ask about warranty but you even got that in, well done and many thanks.
My pleasure, I'm glad it was helpful.
Awesome explanation... just a couple months too late for me as I've already installed and used the smaller cutter head without realizing the implications of that choice. Thanks for all the great tips though!
Very informative thank you!
Great info! I am really enjoying your videos and am wondering why you don't have a ton more subscribers (damn RUclips algorithm, probably). But anyway, you got a sub from me on the first video I watched. So I'm planning on binging the others here shortly. Oh, and I love your sense of humor. Keep up the good work!
Awesome, thanks for your support, and welcome to the channel.
Very thorough test. I was impressed by the noise reduction and surprised by the increased amp draw with the Shelix head. I had similar noise reduction when I installed a Shelix head in my Grizzly jointer. The quality of the cut is most of what I am interested in but the noise reduction is an added bonus to me. You've sold me on the Shelix and will be purchasing for my DW733. You've earned a new subscriber my friend.
Thank you, and welcome to the channel.
Did you install on your DW733? What results on amp draw (stalling out) and quality of cut?
Jim Phillips
Thank you so much for the time, expertise and wisdom. I know nothing about these machines but I am beginning my wood working journey. I considered the dewalt planner. I had never thought to challenge the amperage draw, label vs actual. This was a real eye opener. So it is not just the cost of the Shelix but the cost of electricity if you are a beginning diy hobby person. Thanks again!
I'm glad it was helpful.
The machine has a 15 amp motor which is OK to connect on a 20amp circuit . Electric code allows up to a connected load of 16 amps on a 20 amp breaker. If you are pulling 25 to 30 amps the breaker would trip before you got a 3 foot board planed even on a light cut. Something is not correct.
@@MJ-nb1qn what else is involved. Inrush current is not a problem.
Took me a year to convince my wife that I needed this planer.
Wonder how my years it's going take to convince her I need the blade
So...... hows it all going?
Excellent video and process
You have given me a whole meal for thought. Thanks for sharing
And thank you for commenting.
Perfect video!. . .I learned more from watching your video than watching 10 other RUclips videos combined, on the same subject from other guys. I just bought the same DeWalt planer and Shelix cutter head (only had it 3 days now) and I work mostly with soft woods like Birch and Pine. The most interesting part of your video was the amp draw test - very interesting. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for the feedback.
FYI: After watching your other video about countersinks, I too realized that for years I've been using the wrong bits. . .unbelievable! When you've been a "garage guy" like myself for over 30 years, and you think you're soooo smart - you learn something new. I love it!
@@mikesanchez9654 I'm reminded constantly how little I know. Keeps things exciting.
Here is an idea: With the Shelix head one (or more) of the cutters is constantly in the wood. There is no work relief between cuts. With the straight knives one (admittedly big) cutter is in the wood then you have no cutter in the wood for 1/3 of a rotation. During that rotation there is relief from some of the work load, the head can gain speed before going into the next contact.
i think you nailed it
The idea about shimming the rubber rollers to rest higher (14:45), seems unlikely to succeed. This is because the problem isn't caused by where the roller sits in relation to the cutter head when the machine is -not in use-. When the machine is in use, the rollers still have to move to the same place relative to the frame to allow the cutter heads to touch the wood. Pre-compressing the roller springs with shims will do nothing to change the force those springs exert -when in use-.
There appears only 3 ways to reduce the roller head force:
1. Replace the springs with softer springs
2. Modify the machine so that the top of the springs somehow sit higher than they do currently (e.g., if there are shims on TOP of the roller springs: remove them)
3. Replace your undersized cutting roller with an OEM sized cutting roller.
IMO Shelix should not even be selling an undersized version because it creates so many problems, i can't see how anyone would ever willingly make that purchase if they knew the negative effects it would have on the rest of the machine.
Your thoroughness is amazing. Your delivery is quite good also I've watched both your videos on the Shelix cutters. I hope your channel grows and grows.
Thank you for the kind feedback.
Very thorough. Thanks for making this excellent video!
Great job on this video. I have been running my 735 with stock straight knifes on a 15 amp circuit and have not had any problems with the circuit breakers, but I see I could not expect the same if I upgraded to a Shelix. I wonder how the 1/16 difference in diameter affects the load. Might be even worse with a stock diameter (wood cutting reaction force would have more leverage)
I kinda wish you would have included light pass planing, like 1/3 turn of the wheel. I almost never take a full turn in one swipe when planing 5/4 stock and trying to keep the most thickness for the projects. Nice test though, especially the amp test. Wow.. had no idea I was drawing that much with it. My 20 amp breakers (new circuits) never blow.
Maybe something for a future video. I normally take light passes too, and have likewise never tripped the breaker in the panel. I've tripped breakers in the planer and in an extension cord reel, but not in the panel.
Great and comprehensive review of both setups. I know of only one friend who switched to a SHELIX and he had mixed emotions on the planing enhancement over the obvious cost and power requirement issues. Thanks for the review and technical details. Now to find a stock-like blade with more longevity than DeWalt OEM.
Thanks really Plain spoken and to the point it will help me determine what I’ll be choosing in the way of a planer probably something with the helical blade standard I think I have one option
FYI: I bought a metal detector wand. It’s about the size if a barbecue lighter. They’re about 60-80 dollars. But if you’re planning down old wood it’s a great investment.
For some reason, that's one of those tools that I've always wanted, but just never bought. I used to use a lot of reclaimed wood, and was constantly hitting wire brads and staples. Probably would have paid for itself ten times by now.
@@TheSnekkerShow : for sure. The price I quoted was Canadian dollars. So it should cost at least 35% cheaper. This is not a regular metal detector. It is short range only. This is what you use to narrow down the area when your metal detector goes off. So when you use it you have to be close. Small sweeps, you’ll get the hang of it.
You sound like Nick Offerman
all the other youtube woodworker channels are now jealous and pouty
I thought the same thing within 5 secs of the vid.
I thought he sounded like Sam Harris lol
Exactly what I thought
Yeah but this guy doesn't sound like a limp wristed giggling idiot
Will send this video to wife every week til Christmas! Thanks!
Great job, very professional answer everything I needed to know , thanks.
A fair power consumption test would have you swap the heads and re-run. That would eliminate differences caused by other differences in the machines.
It seems likely (to the point of obvious) that the additional roller force is adding friction between the wood and the bed, which causes the roller motor to work harder to maintain a constant feed speed. To confirm this hypothesis would require some method to ensure that roller pressure is the same in both tests.
Great comparison video. I recently bought one of these planers as I gear up my garage but haven't had a chance to use it yet. Pretty certain my garage is on 15amps at the moment and I've already blown the breaker combining a portable ceramic heater and a shopvac. It'll be interesting to see how long till I need to call an electrician over to upgrade my garage breakers.. I have a feeling its definitely not going to cut it as is.
Yeah, that will be close, especially if you want to capture the dust instead of breathing it. There are some clever designs for filter cabinets to eliminate the need for simultaneous dust collection, but an electrical upgrade is probably inevitable.
You will be doing more than upgrading your breakers. You will have to run heavier wire to the receptacle also.
Fantastic video. Thank you very much for the very thorough comparison. Well done.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great vid! Thanks for sharing. Scott
lol at the thought that came to your mind while watching the total recall remake was "I, as well, am a talentless hack"
I just subscribed to help you pay for your second planner. Your awesome.
You rock, thanks for your support.
Thank you! I watched the original too. At one point I was all worked up helical head because I have that on my jointer and love it. But it is too expensive. Thanks for the video
My pleasure, glad it was helpful.