Thank you for this. I have been looking at every RUclips video on spraying lacquer with an HLVP gun, and yours is THE BEST! You have covered so many of the important elements that I have been struggling with, and now my work is so much better. Your techniques are terrific, and your teaching style is first rate.
Wow. Excellent vid. I'm a novice that has used HVLP sprayers before with paint with pretty good results. I tried lacquer for a table top the other day and completely F'd it up. I had to sand it back down and was going to re-coat it with Poly. (I chickened out). After watching this, I see where I went wrong. I'm jumping back on the horse and am going to lacquer it again. Out of my comfort zone is my comfort zone. And the comment, "all you did was confuse folks." Please watch the video again...and again...and again, until you see what everyone else saw.
You explained orange peel versus dry spray perfectly correct. A lot of people think orange peel as you need to spray more paint, but it is actually that it’s not thin enough to flow out & more paint doesn’t fix it. Awesome advise
Yes but that can be very tricky! You won't be able to put on near as much product because of it being vertical. What's bad about shooting vertical surfaces in this fashion is the fact that it can run 5 minutes after you walk away from it. So it can be really tricky. In the painting world we shoot what's called a fog coat on first wait about 5 or 10 minutes and then shoot another coat on. The fog coat will tack up just enough so that the real true first coat will stick to that surface and cling to it without sagging. You could try the same thing with lacquer but it will have to be much quicker since it dries faster. I've done it before and had success.
I purchased a hvlp and lacquered my kitchen cabinets using you video as guide it worked great. I do have one question, how long does the facemask filters last? I use 3m ov filter and they last a few hours before i start to smell lacquer obviously i replace then when this happens.
Man that's awesome! So glad it helped you out. As for the filters, it really depends. Remember if they are left in the open air, they will slowly degrade on their own, so always keep them in a sealed bag if you're worried about it. I typically use them for several jobs before I replace.
I have sprayed sealer stain paint and varnish on my projects. Decided to try lacquer. I have several of Harbor Frieght purple guns with 1.4 tips. I drilled out 1 to 1.8 for paint. I liked you comments and solutions for the problems when spraying. Thanks
I always use a 1.3 or 1.4mm every time I spray lacquer no matter the viscosity. If it's not coming out just right, I'll add more thinner depending on how it's shooting. Thanks for checking out the video.
Thanks for the video. So I try to redo my cabinet with lacque 20 years ago. I can bring the doors outside but what should I do with the face frame: should I cover the entire kitchen and spray or should I brush it? Thanks.
@@VincentDzinh you could try to brush it. Spraying would certainly be ideal, but also challenging because you could run into sagging issues. I would try brushing first and see how it works.
Thankyou for shring great info! One hesitation that I have is if I need to clean my spray gun in between coats. Since lacquer dries so quickly, do you find it necessary to clean your gun between every coat?
I have never used catalyzed lacquer or non-cat. So I can't really comment on it. I know the catalyzed lacquer generally has a pretty quick working time, but it's supposed to provide a superior finish hardness. Thanks for checking out the video.
Any concerns with it being flammable? I see no spray booth being used. We have a gas garage heater. Should we be concerned using that heat source spraying the lacquer indoors ?
That's a really good question. Yes definitely a concern! Anytime we're spraying in the winter, we make sure the fireplace isn't burning. It's cold, and it sucks, but you have to be safe. The fumes are so flammable!
Sanding sealer - I'm not a fan. Production guys use it because it's cheaper and is a quick easy way to start building coats and it does sand easier. But it does not adhere as well to the surface as straight lacquer and that's a fact. Plus it can hinder clarity in my opinion. We have used it on some projects, never been a fan.
Great video. I also have used only rattle cans in my work. I restore antique radios and usually use a satin lacquer finish on them. Thank you for providing information regarding what PSI you have your air compressor set to. One question though. Does your compressor have a dry filter on it? I would assume that if there is too much moisture in the air coming from the compressor that this would be an issue.
The rattle can Lacquer works very well for those small projects and we've used it as well. Great question on the dry filter. We have a water filter on the compressor, but I've sprayed 100s of gallons without it, never once had an issue personally.
Best practice to strain it as often as possible but I don't always. Often times I'll strain it once into an entire empty gallon. But sometimes I'll strain it as I'm pouring it into my cup. Just depends on the situation really. Usually I don't catch much when I strain anyways.
It is absolutely possible. Alot of guys do it with really good results. And its also quite a bit faster. Two downsides though. Much more overspray, so your actually wasting quite a bit more product which honestly doesnt really bother me. But the other downside is, once you have used a pump for paint, that Lacquer will eat any leftover paint residue out of the pump and you will get contamination, clogged tips, and a big mess. Many guys that spray a ton more than me, will have a dedicated pump for Lacquer products only! Its a great way to spray, but there are those few downsides. I dont have an extra pump, so i use HVLP.
If you have a project that has been stained first, then you spray a first coat of lacquer, do you want to sand that first coat? Or will it harm the stain because you may sand through the fist coat of lacquer? Thank you
It depends really on how it feels. In those situations it's sometimes better to go ahead and shoot another coat then start your standing between coats, just to make sure you don't burn through that first layer and get into your stain. However, I have done it both ways, you just have to make sure your really lightly sanding that first coat. Depending on the stain your using, often times the Lacquer actually lays down even better.
@@miillersconstructionI only use Daly’s stain, high quality satin for sure! Are those 3M sanding pads you use? The superfine you said? Which HVLP sprayer would you recommend? Also, would you try and buy an all steel internals, no o’rings, for an easier clean up? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 i use Mowhawk ultra penetrating stain myself. Dries crazy fast and rarely ever raises the grain. Plus true to color on the samples.
@@tundrawhisperer4821 yes 3m pads superfine. I can't tell alot of difference between sprayers once you spend around $100. I've got a $500 gun that sprays the same as my $100 Ingersoll Rand
Really depends on the temperature, humidity, and the amount of surface your spraying. 50/50 mix is where its at if all else fails, it will just require more coats because 50% of it is going to evaporate as it dries. Because every situation is different, i recommend starting at like an 80/20 mix and work your way thinner. If its coming out of the gun and doesnt look like a fog from an aerosol can, you should probably go thinner. Also just watch the surface as your spraying. Orange peel is almost immediately noticeable if your not thin enough.
Typically at least 1 hour but it also depends on the humidity. I suggest going by the instructions on the can. Worst thing you can do is not wait long enough.
Very helpful video and very well explained! I have never sprayed with a gun, but I want to learn.. What do you use to remove the white dust in between the sanding?
Air, and a cotton cloth. Sometimes my hand as well. That's the beautiful thing about Lacquer, even the dust will melt back into the surface and won't usually cause adhesion issues. It never has for me, but I still remove as much as possible.
Really excellent hints and tutorial only one question please did you spray from about 8" back from wood to sprayer. I've always wanted to use lacquer in sprayer but always feared and now I know how to lightly sand but what is the name of the flexible sanding pads you use please and lovely video congrats to you something new comers need
I really dont pay a ton of attention to the distance between my gun and the surface. With Lacquer i usually look at the surface as im spraying and if it is laying down a smooth even coat, i keep going and stay steady. Im always looking at the surface. For reference purposes though, i would say im around 6" from the surface usually.
its what special K does best lol! In all seriousness, he handed me the spray gun when i was like 14 years old and ive been doing it ever since. I dont think he had the patience for it. All i had to do was figure out how it works and it became easy.
I go by what it says on the container. Every brand is different. Not very long though. Marine Varnish is great for exterior applications. This is interior only.
We used to use a lot of sanding sealer but we do not anymore. It does not have near as good adhesion to wood surfaces as straight lacquer does. I just use lacquer thinner straight to clean up my gun at the end of the day. That's all I've ever used and it's worked great. The gun I was using in the video we're still using today and it's 20 years old.
@@buddytaylor6983 Well you can't use Lacquer because its incompatible with most paints. You will need to use something like a waterbased polyurethane. That would be my recommendation. Minwax Polycrylic is one, but I am not a big fan of it.
Yes you can. Just remember to make sure to apply a nice even coat with a good amount of overlap. Sand been coats, upping the grit each coat. Rattle cans tend to dry even quicker so higher humidity is actually a good thing when working with lacquer in certain circumstances.
@@miillersconstruction im using Nitrocellulose Lacquer so sanding between coats is less important but I do get a lot of blushing. Anyway to fix it after it occurs? I tried spraying pure thinner from a rattle can to let the moisture escape but it doesn't dry to a gloss after applying the spray thinner.
@@Matan2222222 not much of a way to get rid of it unfortunately without sanding it back down. Try applying a very light "fog coat" let it dry for about 5 minutes then apply a coat and let it set for an hour.
@@miillersconstruction light fog coat of pure thinner and then the lacquer coat? I have some MOHAWK No Blush Retarder on the way in a spray can. Do you recommend spraying the piece with the retarder, let the piece dry and then comeback with lacquer?
@@Matan2222222 I'm sorry I should have been more specific. No what I meant was spray a light fog coat of pure lacquer. Then 5 minutes later spray a standard coat of lacquer. I never shoot just straight thinner onto any project ever. I also have only experienced blushing once or twice in all the years I've been using the method shown in the video.
This was very helpful. Thanks!! One question... I just finished sanding 20 year old rough sawn pine. Yes all the walls and ceiling which at the peak is 20 feet off the ground. I want to spray a clear satin finish. I was thinking about lacquer, but I was hoping to not ever have to sand it again (not even lightly). Do you think I could get away without sanding between coats??? Thanks again!!
Sorry for the insanely late response. You can try not sanding and it might look ok From a distance once finished. Up close it will look decent. But when you feel it, it will definitely be fairly rough depending on how many coats you put on.
Great question. Really depends how much your spraying. If your doing a very small piece, it shouldn't be an issue as long as your wearing a respirator and get out of there when your done. Definitely don't spray around any open flame!
what brand of clear lacquer are you using and is it pre thinned? Im trying to find basic lacquer that requires thinning. Stuff I see online is "pre thinned" meaning Im not getting that much for the $$$
The sanding pad doesnt have a grit number (dumb i know) its called "superfine" i would compare it to maybe 400 grit. Really depends on the paint but i have personally never tried it. It MIGHT work over oil based paint, but it will most likely destroy any waterbased topcoats. Lacquer is unique in that way. It will actually eat into other coatings so you have to be careful. They do make pigmented Nitrocellulose Lacquer and i have used it. It works basically the same as the clear. Very nice finish.
Bob here. 45 yrs of spraying lacquer. NO!!! I can't stress this enough. DO NOT apply lacquer over any top coat that is not lacquer. Acrylic, alkyd, oil, whatever. Lacquer will blister it badly and destroy it. I have many, MANY, yrs experience with that. ...such an expensive mistake. Just sharing my opinion.
@@bobpartridge3668 Appreciate the comment Bob. I have never tried it so i wouldnt know. It sounded like a bad idea from the beginning knowing the nature of Lacquer. I would not have even attempted it myself, which is probably why ive never tried it.
@@miillersconstructionDid you ever experienced bubbles and if you did, how did you solve the problem. I sprayed gloss polyurethane and the bubbles keep coming.
@@gustavogalindo4543 Gloss Poly is a completely different product. Bubbles could be caused by a number of issues, but the thing to keep in mind, poly and Lacquer are in no way related. Completely different products.
You have to thin the Watco brand regardless because it’s a “brushable” lacquer.. meaning, it has a retarder added to slow the drying process so it can be brushed. Lacquer thinner or acetone will offset the retarder.
By this comment are you saying a lacquer that it designed for spraying and not for brushing would not require thinning or less thinning... or is every situation different and one first has to do a test to see how it is laying down (spraying)?
I use the stir stick - when I stir, I’ll pull the stick out and count how long it takes for the stream to break. My standard timing is about 6 seconds, and I’m shooting C.E. Bradley 45 degree Nitrocellulose Lacquer. I do use sanding sealer, though, because it’s easier to sand and dries a bit quicker than the actual lacquer. I’m doing many hundreds of small parts, though, so I can’t spend the time to do 4 coats, so the quicker build of sanding sealer gets it done quicker.
@@MachinedInWoodso do you spray one coat of sanding sealer and then one coat laquer? I’m looking for a quicker process for smaller parts as well. What sanding sealer do you use?
@@nathanturner8761 yes, sometimes 2 coats of sealer for high build parts. Always a quick sand between sealer and lacquer because the sealer raises the grain. I use the matching sealer from C.E. Bradley, but my understanding is that anything will work as a base, but the stuff I use has a certain amber color to it that my customer prefers.
Poly is a completely different animal. I like to thin it though myself. It will level out better. You just have to make sure you put on an additional coat or two. Also make sure your thinning it with the proper product obviously.
I have never sprayed Black Lacquer. But if you can find a dealer to mix it for you and it is a one part Lacquer, like nitrocellulose, all of the principles I shared in this video should apply the same.
Ive probably sprayed 100s of gallons of precat nitro laquer it smells sweet . I never had to thin it more the 15 \20% even using an old harbor freight cheap hvlp turbine
I have never applied more than 6 or 7 coats so im not sure about that. That is a beautiful thing about Lacquer though, each coat burns into the next so its more durable than a traditional system in that aspect.
@@roropepe1848 just make absolute sure you wait the entire dry time to recoat which is usually at least 1 hour generally. Some brands allow 30 minutes.
I would add that any type of paint or finish that has a flattening agent in it...you must strain it. Small bumps caused by poor mixing/straining are more noticeable when spraying colored lacquers. I've sprayed thousands of gallons through HVLP automotive type guns but have had very good success with most turbine guns as well. Most of the guys I see on jobsites these days are using airless and the surface quality is next level. Don't be afraid to use sealers or assume they are an unnecessary step/cost under your lacquer jobs.
I used to strain every ounce of it. I stopped though because i never seen the benefits once i learned what i was doing. I have used pigmented Lacquers as well, not just clears, never an issue if you stir it well, or at least not for me.I do strain any painted finishes, especially primers. Nitrocellulose Lacquer though is a different animal. I just never seen any benefits. I bought a brand new Graco FinishPro 9.5. Absolute piece of garbage. I sold that thing quick. Turbines produce heat. Heat plus Nitrocellulose Lacquer = not good. Waterbase finishes? It probably works better. I always use a sealer with pigmented Lacquers because its a different animal. With clears, sanding sealer is just a waste of money in my opinion, the bond is not as strong as straight lacquer. Its just a cheaper product that guys will use to skip a coat or two and save some money.
I have never tried it but I would think not. Lacquer tends to burn through so much stuff, it's really so tough and potent. You could try brushing on just a little bit and see.
I have used sanding sealer in the past. Sanding sealer is more for production guys in my opinion. The adhesion is not quite as strong as straight Lacquer, and its easier to sand. That's why its cheaper. I prefer to just start off with straight Lacquer.
For the folks that may be novices, there is a real need to wear an appropriate mask with the correct filters if you’re going solvent based. Even with water based, you should still wear one.
That's a good point for sure. I always wear the appropriate protection, but unfortunately ran out of new filters the day I was spraying in this video. It happens. Stinks I have to order them online. But at least I was wearing a mask. Better than nothing.
Polycrylic is ok and if it works well for you, keep going with it. If you ever want to step out of your comfort zone though, Lacquer will dry way faster. Interior trim and woodworking we have had great success with it. Once again this is a system that gives you really high quality in a production setting. So if you have a ton of linear footage to spray, i would definitely give lacquer a try. If your only shooting a single piece of furniture and dont mind waiting a little longer for dry time, stick with what you know if it is giving you good results.
Blushing is not caused by spraying to heavy. Its caused by moisture/humidity in the air. Its basically water vaor trapped between to film coats. The milky color from spraying to heavy is simply the build up of product not being clear.
thanks for the video but there's one big question for the hobbyist that you didn't address and I have not seen addressed really in any YT video I've watched, and that is disposal of the lacquer or thinner you're not saving after the spray. You can't just pour it down the drain of your sink (or can you??) like you can a water-based finish. This is the one and only reason I've never used lacquer for my projects. So what is the proper way to dispose of the material? p.s. Please do the dog a favor and move his food dish away from where you're spraying!!
I've sprayed the dog before. He loves it. It's my dog, you worry about your dog. As for the leftovers, I have a big bucket that when it is eventually filled, take it to the paint recycle center. Very simple, very easy. What do you think autobody shops do with their leftover solvent based paints?
well then next time you're gonna spray the dog with lacquer, first spray some in your own mouth and see how you like it. Because that's essentially what you're doing by spraying the dog. @@miillersconstruction
@@miillersconstruction Got ya. I have 2 rigs One for solvent, other for Water base.Have little experience with HVLP. I am curious though. Would like to learn spraying Epoxy. What HVLP rig do you suggest.
@@keithhampton9700 when it comes to HVLP the one piece of advice I would give you is to stay away from turbine units like the Gracos. I absolutely hated mine so bad I sold it. I've just got a cheap gravity feed cup gun and a compressor. It's done me well for nearly 2 decades.
That out of time music is painful, too many creators are using it. Instant NOPE, can't watch the video. Sorry :/. Thought it was worth sharing at least.
![Kodak Black - Catch Fire [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A4ch-olIuZo/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for this. I have been looking at every RUclips video on spraying lacquer with an HLVP gun, and yours is THE BEST! You have covered so many of the important elements that I have been struggling with, and now my work is so much better. Your techniques are terrific, and your teaching style is first rate.
Sorry im just now seeing this comment. I appreciate the kind words and glad the video helped!
Great tutorial! Thanks to your information I figured out I was not thinning my lacquer enough!
So glad it helped! Thanks for checking out the video
Wow. Excellent vid. I'm a novice that has used HVLP sprayers before with paint with pretty good results. I tried lacquer for a table top the other day and completely F'd it up. I had to sand it back down and was going to re-coat it with Poly. (I chickened out). After watching this, I see where I went wrong. I'm jumping back on the horse and am going to lacquer it again. Out of my comfort zone is my comfort zone. And the comment, "all you did was confuse folks." Please watch the video again...and again...and again, until you see what everyone else saw.
Glad it helped man. Really hope it works out for you.
Excellent tutorial. The tips on thinning the lacquer helped me to understand the issues I had in the past. I did not add enough thinner.
Glad you enjoyed and it helped. Yeah getting enough thinner in there is critical!
You explained orange peel versus dry spray perfectly correct. A lot of people think orange peel as you need to spray more paint, but it is actually that it’s not thin enough to flow out & more paint doesn’t fix it. Awesome advise
Thank you. And thanks for checking out the video.
The door is so pretty at three coats already!
Great video! What orientation do you recommend for spraying pre-hung door jambs? Spray them vertically I assume?
Yes but that can be very tricky! You won't be able to put on near as much product because of it being vertical. What's bad about shooting vertical surfaces in this fashion is the fact that it can run 5 minutes after you walk away from it. So it can be really tricky. In the painting world we shoot what's called a fog coat on first wait about 5 or 10 minutes and then shoot another coat on. The fog coat will tack up just enough so that the real true first coat will stick to that surface and cling to it without sagging. You could try the same thing with lacquer but it will have to be much quicker since it dries faster. I've done it before and had success.
I purchased a hvlp and lacquered my kitchen cabinets using you video as guide it worked great. I do have one question, how long does the facemask filters last? I use 3m ov filter and they last a few hours before i start to smell lacquer obviously i replace then when this happens.
Man that's awesome! So glad it helped you out. As for the filters, it really depends. Remember if they are left in the open air, they will slowly degrade on their own, so always keep them in a sealed bag if you're worried about it. I typically use them for several jobs before I replace.
@miillersconstruction maybe my face is way to close to the work :)
I have sprayed sealer stain paint and varnish on my projects. Decided to try lacquer. I have several of Harbor Frieght purple guns with 1.4 tips. I drilled out 1 to 1.8 for paint. I liked you comments and solutions for the problems when spraying. Thanks
glad it helped!
Thank you. Excelle t video. What tip size do you use with watco thinned 70/30?
I always use a 1.3 or 1.4mm every time I spray lacquer no matter the viscosity. If it's not coming out just right, I'll add more thinner depending on how it's shooting. Thanks for checking out the video.
Thanks for the video. So I try to redo my cabinet with lacque 20 years ago. I can bring the doors outside but what should I do with the face frame: should I cover the entire kitchen and spray or should I brush it? Thanks.
@@VincentDzinh you could try to brush it. Spraying would certainly be ideal, but also challenging because you could run into sagging issues. I would try brushing first and see how it works.
Thanks! This video be very helpful tomorrow when I’ll spraying some cabinets doors, thanks again
Thankyou for shring great info! One hesitation that I have is if I need to clean my spray gun in between coats. Since lacquer dries so quickly, do you find it necessary to clean your gun between every coat?
I have never had an issue with that. But I never leave it overnight.
I just want to bring my stuff to you! Great vid! thanks!
Thank you!
Great Video. Very informative. What about de-catalyzed lacquer?
I have never used catalyzed lacquer or non-cat. So I can't really comment on it. I know the catalyzed lacquer generally has a pretty quick working time, but it's supposed to provide a superior finish hardness. Thanks for checking out the video.
Been watching some videos on this. i am trying my first attempt at spraying tomorrow.. thank you.
Hope my video helped at least some!
Any concerns with it being flammable? I see no spray booth being used. We have a gas garage heater. Should we be concerned using that heat source spraying the lacquer indoors ?
That's a really good question. Yes definitely a concern! Anytime we're spraying in the winter, we make sure the fireplace isn't burning. It's cold, and it sucks, but you have to be safe. The fumes are so flammable!
Great video!!!! Thank you!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks you so much for sharing this video. Would like to know your thoughts on using Lacquer sealer.
Sanding sealer - I'm not a fan. Production guys use it because it's cheaper and is a quick easy way to start building coats and it does sand easier. But it does not adhere as well to the surface as straight lacquer and that's a fact. Plus it can hinder clarity in my opinion. We have used it on some projects, never been a fan.
Thanks so much for the informative video. I have been using rattle can lacquer and you have given me the courage to try hvlp.
Awesome!!! Glad it helped
Great expertise shown here! Thanks
👍👍👍
Do you use a tack cloth in between sandings?
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great video. I also have used only rattle cans in my work. I restore antique radios and usually use a satin lacquer finish on them. Thank you for providing information regarding what PSI you have your air compressor set to. One question though. Does your compressor have a dry filter on it? I would assume that if there is too much moisture in the air coming from the compressor that this would be an issue.
The rattle can Lacquer works very well for those small projects and we've used it as well. Great question on the dry filter. We have a water filter on the compressor, but I've sprayed 100s of gallons without it, never once had an issue personally.
Do you strain the product before filling your cup? Thx
Best practice to strain it as often as possible but I don't always. Often times I'll strain it once into an entire empty gallon. But sometimes I'll strain it as I'm pouring it into my cup. Just depends on the situation really. Usually I don't catch much when I strain anyways.
Thanks 4 sharing
Is it possible to spray lacquer with graco x5 airless sprayer? Thank you in advance if answer
It is absolutely possible. Alot of guys do it with really good results. And its also quite a bit faster. Two downsides though. Much more overspray, so your actually wasting quite a bit more product which honestly doesnt really bother me. But the other downside is, once you have used a pump for paint, that Lacquer will eat any leftover paint residue out of the pump and you will get contamination, clogged tips, and a big mess. Many guys that spray a ton more than me, will have a dedicated pump for Lacquer products only! Its a great way to spray, but there are those few downsides. I dont have an extra pump, so i use HVLP.
If you have a project that has been stained first, then you spray a first coat of lacquer, do you want to sand that first coat? Or will it harm the stain because you may sand through the fist coat of lacquer? Thank you
It depends really on how it feels. In those situations it's sometimes better to go ahead and shoot another coat then start your standing between coats, just to make sure you don't burn through that first layer and get into your stain. However, I have done it both ways, you just have to make sure your really lightly sanding that first coat. Depending on the stain your using, often times the Lacquer actually lays down even better.
@@miillersconstructionI only use Daly’s stain, high quality satin for sure! Are those 3M sanding pads you use? The superfine you said? Which HVLP sprayer would you recommend? Also, would you try and buy an all steel internals, no o’rings, for an easier clean up? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 i use Mowhawk ultra penetrating stain myself. Dries crazy fast and rarely ever raises the grain. Plus true to color on the samples.
@@tundrawhisperer4821 yes 3m pads superfine. I can't tell alot of difference between sprayers once you spend around $100. I've got a $500 gun that sprays the same as my $100 Ingersoll Rand
@@miillersconstruction is your Ingersoll-Rand the 270G model? Thank you for all the great info.
What ratio would you recommend for birch plywood?
Really depends on the temperature, humidity, and the amount of surface your spraying. 50/50 mix is where its at if all else fails, it will just require more coats because 50% of it is going to evaporate as it dries. Because every situation is different, i recommend starting at like an 80/20 mix and work your way thinner. If its coming out of the gun and doesnt look like a fog from an aerosol can, you should probably go thinner. Also just watch the surface as your spraying. Orange peel is almost immediately noticeable if your not thin enough.
How long did you wait between coats? Thanks and great info.
Every manufacturer is different. I follow the instructions on the label for dry times.
Thank you for the video. How long do you wait before doing your next coat
Typically at least 1 hour but it also depends on the humidity. I suggest going by the instructions on the can. Worst thing you can do is not wait long enough.
Very helpful video and very well explained! I have never sprayed with a gun, but I want to learn.. What do you use to remove the white dust in between the sanding?
Air, and a cotton cloth. Sometimes my hand as well. That's the beautiful thing about Lacquer, even the dust will melt back into the surface and won't usually cause adhesion issues. It never has for me, but I still remove as much as possible.
Really excellent hints and tutorial only one question please did you spray from about 8" back from wood to sprayer. I've always wanted to use lacquer in sprayer but always feared and now I know how to lightly sand but what is the name of the flexible sanding pads you use please and lovely video congrats to you something new comers need
I really dont pay a ton of attention to the distance between my gun and the surface. With Lacquer i usually look at the surface as im spraying and if it is laying down a smooth even coat, i keep going and stay steady. Im always looking at the surface. For reference purposes though, i would say im around 6" from the surface usually.
Bro, is your cleaner barrel right next to your dogs food and water bowl?
Sure is. He likes a little "extra"
What size of tip as well? Thanks for a great vid.
I believe in using a 1.4mm anywhere between 1.2-1.5 should be good for lacquer in most circumstances.
Special K came in clutch with helping move pieces . Some good information in this video on using lacquer .
its what special K does best lol! In all seriousness, he handed me the spray gun when i was like 14 years old and ive been doing it ever since. I dont think he had the patience for it. All i had to do was figure out how it works and it became easy.
Do you use sanding sealer?
@@stevespencer5158 I try to avoid it if at all possible. I've found adhesion isn't quite as good.
how long you need to wait to dry between coats? I use marine lacquer
I go by what it says on the container. Every brand is different. Not very long though. Marine Varnish is great for exterior applications. This is interior only.
Are you using laquer sanding sealer before the actual laquer? Also, what do you use to clean your gun when you’re finished spraying for the day?
We used to use a lot of sanding sealer but we do not anymore. It does not have near as good adhesion to wood surfaces as straight lacquer does. I just use lacquer thinner straight to clean up my gun at the end of the day. That's all I've ever used and it's worked great. The gun I was using in the video we're still using today and it's 20 years old.
@@miillersconstruction thank you! Do you always sand in between coats of laquer?
@@jpryan9494 almost always. Very rare that I don't.
Can you use this on painted cabinets? Also, where do you get that particular brand lacquer?
@@buddytaylor6983 you can get Watco Lacquer at home Depot, we get it at our local lumber yard though. Definitely do not use it over painted cabinets.
@@miillersconstruction okay, thanks. Do you have any suggestions on a lacquer to use on painted surfaces?
@@buddytaylor6983 Well you can't use Lacquer because its incompatible with most paints. You will need to use something like a waterbased polyurethane. That would be my recommendation. Minwax Polycrylic is one, but I am not a big fan of it.
A Good video therefore subscribed Great Job you get a 10 on 10
Can I achieve that type of finish with spray cans? I have only small projects like guitars. Its very humid here so I'll have to wait until the summer.
Yes you can. Just remember to make sure to apply a nice even coat with a good amount of overlap. Sand been coats, upping the grit each coat. Rattle cans tend to dry even quicker so higher humidity is actually a good thing when working with lacquer in certain circumstances.
@@miillersconstruction im using Nitrocellulose Lacquer so sanding between coats is less important but I do get a lot of blushing. Anyway to fix it after it occurs?
I tried spraying pure thinner from a rattle can to let the moisture escape but it doesn't dry to a gloss after applying the spray thinner.
@@Matan2222222 not much of a way to get rid of it unfortunately without sanding it back down. Try applying a very light "fog coat" let it dry for about 5 minutes then apply a coat and let it set for an hour.
@@miillersconstruction light fog coat of pure thinner and then the lacquer coat?
I have some MOHAWK No Blush Retarder on the way in a spray can.
Do you recommend spraying the piece with the retarder, let the piece dry and then comeback with lacquer?
@@Matan2222222 I'm sorry I should have been more specific. No what I meant was spray a light fog coat of pure lacquer. Then 5 minutes later spray a standard coat of lacquer. I never shoot just straight thinner onto any project ever. I also have only experienced blushing once or twice in all the years I've been using the method shown in the video.
This was very helpful. Thanks!!
One question... I just finished sanding 20 year old rough sawn pine. Yes all the walls and ceiling which at the peak is 20 feet off the ground. I want to spray a clear satin finish. I was thinking about lacquer, but I was hoping to not ever have to sand it again (not even lightly). Do you think I could get away without sanding between coats???
Thanks again!!
Sorry for the insanely late response. You can try not sanding and it might look ok From a distance once finished. Up close it will look decent. But when you feel it, it will definitely be fairly rough depending on how many coats you put on.
@@miillersconstruction Thanks !!!
And I really appreciate you getting back to me!!!
Do you need a ventilated area? I have a small garage shop?
Great question. Really depends how much your spraying. If your doing a very small piece, it shouldn't be an issue as long as your wearing a respirator and get out of there when your done. Definitely don't spray around any open flame!
"I hope y'all liked the video".
Darn right I do, and thank you !
Subscribed.
Thanks 👍👍👍
I never realized that left handed people stir counter clockwise or that they can sand ambidextrous.
Boy that lacquered pine looks nice
@@Automedon2 lol! That's a weird thing to notice man 😂
@@miillersconstruction Noticing obscure things has been a curse all my life
nice work sir thanks for tutorial how to spray 😊
Your very welcome, hope it helps
what brand of clear lacquer are you using and is it pre thinned? Im trying to find basic lacquer that requires thinning. Stuff I see online is "pre thinned" meaning Im not getting that much for the $$$
Man I've never even seen prethinned lacquer. I'm used to using Watco, but recently we used PPG and it's fantastic. We like it better.
HD sells the Watco brand or you can go to any commercial paint store usually and get lacquer and thinner
Thanks for the informational video.
What size air compressor are you using?
20 gallon 5hp. Can't remember the CFMs off the top of my head.
Thanks mate. I'll give it a go tomorroiw.
Awesome man!
Very good. I like that is quick drying. Can I spray lacquer over a flat color paint? What is the number of the sand pad?
The sanding pad doesnt have a grit number (dumb i know) its called "superfine" i would compare it to maybe 400 grit. Really depends on the paint but i have personally never tried it. It MIGHT work over oil based paint, but it will most likely destroy any waterbased topcoats. Lacquer is unique in that way. It will actually eat into other coatings so you have to be careful. They do make pigmented Nitrocellulose Lacquer and i have used it. It works basically the same as the clear. Very nice finish.
Bob here. 45 yrs of spraying lacquer. NO!!! I can't stress this enough. DO NOT apply lacquer over any top coat that is not lacquer. Acrylic, alkyd, oil, whatever. Lacquer will blister it badly and destroy it. I have many, MANY, yrs experience with that.
...such an expensive mistake. Just sharing my opinion.
@@bobpartridge3668 Appreciate the comment Bob. I have never tried it so i wouldnt know. It sounded like a bad idea from the beginning knowing the nature of Lacquer. I would not have even attempted it myself, which is probably why ive never tried it.
@@miillersconstructionDid you ever experienced bubbles and if you did, how did you solve the problem. I sprayed gloss polyurethane and the bubbles keep coming.
@@gustavogalindo4543 Gloss Poly is a completely different product. Bubbles could be caused by a number of issues, but the thing to keep in mind, poly and Lacquer are in no way related. Completely different products.
I Love It!
Awesome!
Hi mate
What is the size tip of your gun?
1.4mm I believe.
What is the minimum size of the compressor to use?
Depends on how much your spraying. If you are only spraying one small door, a small compressor will get you by.
You have to thin the Watco brand regardless because it’s a “brushable” lacquer.. meaning, it has a retarder added to slow the drying process so it can be brushed. Lacquer thinner or acetone will offset the retarder.
By this comment are you saying a lacquer that it designed for spraying and not for brushing would not require thinning or less thinning... or is every situation different and one first has to do a test to see how it is laying down (spraying)?
Blushing?...too much thinner or not enough? Was spraying a project and it blushed with humidity low.
Blushing typically occurs with lower humidity in my experience. I would try a little less thinner first.
when I did this years ago, I used a viscosity cup and a stop watch for the thickness of lacquer. Usually they have the timing on the lacquer can.
Yeah I've never done that. Once you do it enough, you pretty much figure it out by eyeballing it.
I use the stir stick - when I stir, I’ll pull the stick out and count how long it takes for the stream to break. My standard timing is about 6 seconds, and I’m shooting C.E. Bradley 45 degree Nitrocellulose Lacquer. I do use sanding sealer, though, because it’s easier to sand and dries a bit quicker than the actual lacquer. I’m doing many hundreds of small parts, though, so I can’t spend the time to do 4 coats, so the quicker build of sanding sealer gets it done quicker.
@@MachinedInWoodso do you spray one coat of sanding sealer and then one coat laquer? I’m looking for a quicker process for smaller parts as well. What sanding sealer do you use?
@@nathanturner8761 yes, sometimes 2 coats of sealer for high build parts. Always a quick sand between sealer and lacquer because the sealer raises the grain. I use the matching sealer from C.E. Bradley, but my understanding is that anything will work as a base, but the stuff I use has a certain amber color to it that my customer prefers.
Good tips, thank you guys!
your welcome!
Do I have to thin polyurethane
Poly is a completely different animal. I like to thin it though myself. It will level out better. You just have to make sure you put on an additional coat or two. Also make sure your thinning it with the proper product obviously.
What about spraying colored lacquer on cabinet doors and drawers? Color is black
I have never sprayed Black Lacquer. But if you can find a dealer to mix it for you and it is a one part Lacquer, like nitrocellulose, all of the principles I shared in this video should apply the same.
Thanks for your help and for the video. I learned a lot from it.
@@kirkCottle Your quite welcome!
I shoot with 1.3 for laquer what are you using?
I shoot with a 1.4 but 1.3 is good too. I would probably use a 1.3 if i had one.
@@miillersconstruction why not shoot with a 1.8 and not have to thin as much.
@@zackbridgman I was thinking the same thing, based on what I’ve been hearing. I’m a newbie, still learning though. Thx
Ive probably sprayed 100s of gallons of precat nitro laquer it smells sweet . I never had to thin it more the 15 \20% even using an old harbor freight cheap hvlp turbine
@@Stevesbe I'm happy for you.
Your poor helper had to walk like 50 miles that day 😂
17:35 - good sheen, and still see some grain - that is very handsome!
is there a limit of how many coats u can apply? thank you!
I have never applied more than 6 or 7 coats so im not sure about that. That is a beautiful thing about Lacquer though, each coat burns into the next so its more durable than a traditional system in that aspect.
@@miillersconstruction thank you i guess i'll test it first to see.
@@roropepe1848 just make absolute sure you wait the entire dry time to recoat which is usually at least 1 hour generally. Some brands allow 30 minutes.
I would add that any type of paint or finish that has a flattening agent in it...you must strain it. Small bumps caused by poor mixing/straining are more noticeable when spraying colored lacquers. I've sprayed thousands of gallons through HVLP automotive type guns but have had very good success with most turbine guns as well. Most of the guys I see on jobsites these days are using airless and the surface quality is next level. Don't be afraid to use sealers or assume they are an unnecessary step/cost under your lacquer jobs.
I used to strain every ounce of it. I stopped though because i never seen the benefits once i learned what i was doing. I have used pigmented Lacquers as well, not just clears, never an issue if you stir it well, or at least not for me.I do strain any painted finishes, especially primers. Nitrocellulose Lacquer though is a different animal. I just never seen any benefits. I bought a brand new Graco FinishPro 9.5. Absolute piece of garbage. I sold that thing quick. Turbines produce heat. Heat plus Nitrocellulose Lacquer = not good. Waterbase finishes? It probably works better. I always use a sealer with pigmented Lacquers because its a different animal. With clears, sanding sealer is just a waste of money in my opinion, the bond is not as strong as straight lacquer. Its just a cheaper product that guys will use to skip a coat or two and save some money.
@@miillersconstruction Thanks for that comment about not using the (sanding?) sealer. Great video and information. I will subscribe.
Can I spray lacquer over a shellac base
I have never tried it but I would think not. Lacquer tends to burn through so much stuff, it's really so tough and potent. You could try brushing on just a little bit and see.
dont you use sealer first ?
I have used sanding sealer in the past. Sanding sealer is more for production guys in my opinion. The adhesion is not quite as strong as straight Lacquer, and its easier to sand. That's why its cheaper. I prefer to just start off with straight Lacquer.
shouldn't you wear a gas mask, not a dust mask?
For the folks that may be novices, there is a real need to wear an appropriate mask with the correct filters if you’re going solvent based. Even with water based, you should still wear one.
That's a good point for sure. I always wear the appropriate protection, but unfortunately ran out of new filters the day I was spraying in this video. It happens. Stinks I have to order them online. But at least I was wearing a mask. Better than nothing.
Maybe move that dog food & water, unless it's future project for a display window.
its a future project for a display window
Where are you located ?
Arkansas
When would you use lacquer instead of say, polycrylic? I have used polycrylic and seems to work well.
Polycrylic is ok and if it works well for you, keep going with it. If you ever want to step out of your comfort zone though, Lacquer will dry way faster. Interior trim and woodworking we have had great success with it. Once again this is a system that gives you really high quality in a production setting. So if you have a ton of linear footage to spray, i would definitely give lacquer a try. If your only shooting a single piece of furniture and dont mind waiting a little longer for dry time, stick with what you know if it is giving you good results.
Blushing is not caused by spraying to heavy. Its caused by moisture/humidity in the air.
Its basically water vaor trapped between to film coats.
The milky color from spraying to heavy is simply the build up of product not being clear.
Ok
@@miillersconstruction 40 years finishing experience.
@@denniscotey8182 I'm happy for you.
Orange peel can also be avoided with a retarder which is similar to thinning. 30 PSI is not HVLP , you're just gravity spraying off a compressor.
As an x auto-body guy they make slower drying thinners and or retarders.
Yes absolutely. All I can source locally is medium dry. Which works well for us usually.
Need to get correct 3m air filter
thanks for the video but there's one big question for the hobbyist that you didn't address and I have not seen addressed really in any YT video I've watched, and that is disposal of the lacquer or thinner you're not saving after the spray. You can't just pour it down the drain of your sink (or can you??) like you can a water-based finish. This is the one and only reason I've never used lacquer for my projects. So what is the proper way to dispose of the material?
p.s. Please do the dog a favor and move his food dish away from where you're spraying!!
I've sprayed the dog before. He loves it. It's my dog, you worry about your dog.
As for the leftovers, I have a big bucket that when it is eventually filled, take it to the paint recycle center. Very simple, very easy. What do you think autobody shops do with their leftover solvent based paints?
well then next time you're gonna spray the dog with lacquer, first spray some in your own mouth and see how you like it. Because that's essentially what you're doing by spraying the dog. @@miillersconstruction
@@carlpetitt2241 thanks for checking out the video. I love a keyboard warrior every now and again.
@@miillersconstruction Good comment, "...It's my dog, you worry about your dog." As if you didn't care about your dog. You are alright Miller.
Always used Airless to spray lacquer. Just use a fine finish tip.
I like to keep my airless solvent free. HVLP works just fine FOR ME
@@miillersconstruction Got ya. I have 2 rigs
One for solvent, other for Water base.Have little experience with HVLP. I am curious though. Would like to learn spraying Epoxy. What HVLP rig do you suggest.
@@keithhampton9700 when it comes to HVLP the one piece of advice I would give you is to stay away from turbine units like the Gracos. I absolutely hated mine so bad I sold it. I've just got a cheap gravity feed cup gun and a compressor. It's done me well for nearly 2 decades.
@@miillersconstruction Thanks!!
Wouldn't a "full tutorial" include some tips like dry time to re-spray, ventilation, clean-up, etc.?
I did the best I could. Sorry
@@miillersconstruction You did great, pal...
Blue shirt guy should probably be wearing a mask.
Thanks Jim
@@miillersconstruction No charge. Thanks the video btw. Very helpful.
@@Jimmy-Legs like & subscribe buddy
@@miillersconstruction ok.
Not even 4 mins in a you get a thumbs up.
Thank you so much! Glad you enjoy
Looks like banana pudding after you mixed it.
LOL!!! I assure you it wasnt quite that thick!
Gosh I hate sanding. When is somebody going to invent a non-sanding finish that’s not paint.
It's a pain yes. But what's nice about lacquer is it's so incredibly easy to sand.
@@miillersconstruction What do you use to sand between coats? Do you have to sand between every coat? Thx
@@tundrawhisperer4821 watch the full video and it should show you the sanding pads I use. They are made by 3m and they are all that I use.
Move the pet food, that is very unhealthy place to clean the sprayer!
Man all you have done is confused folks!!!!!!
That out of time music is painful, too many creators are using it. Instant NOPE, can't watch the video. Sorry :/. Thought it was worth sharing at least.
What a stupid reason to not learn a thing lol
Fast forward the music?
I smell dead people…
What grit do u use to sand between coats?
SuperFine pads from 3m. They don't tell the grit number