Answers to common questions! 1) This was just a quick demo I asked Chris & John to do while they were painting my house. Normally they wear respirators. Always wear a respirator when spraying lacquer. 2) They are professionals and have expensive equipment but the techniques are the same as I use on my cheapie set-up. I use this $80 kit that has three spray guns: amzn.to/2k3GxgO along with my little $100 compressor. 3) I'll still use spray cans for small projects. They are so convenient!
"I just think it looks a lot better than the inexpensive lacquers that come out of a spray can" Boom! Did you have to put a cut right there because in the very next frame the fight broke out? :)
I tore out an old gas fireplace and put in a kitchen pantry where it stood. When it was time for painting the fresh drywall I watched some of Paint Life's videos for pointers. It's amazing how many others RUclips channels you've come in contact with, Steve. Thank you for all you do and you've truly been paramount in my woodworking journey these last three years. Cheers.
Talk about timing! I was just about to hit the purchase button on another gun when I got the notification to this video. Watched it and changed my purchase. Thanks Steve!
Cool. I have a pretty cheap gun and it actually works pretty well with my compressor, but I definitely notice an improvement in the pro system like John was using here. Better adjustments and smoother flow of material.
I've been spraying Deft brushing lacquer for 25 years. I started with a siphon gun but learned how to use a gravity feed cup gun when I worked in the paint department of an auto factory. Love the cup gun! It works well for automotive lacquer as well as solvent based paints.
jimbooth3 I've been using Minwax clear brushing lacquer in my HF HVLP gun for years and it works beautifully. It's also good on tools to prevent oxidation. I have no idea why the can says to use only for brushing, but I spray flawless finishes with it consistently on wood or metal.
I didn't know this turbine for the spray gun. I like to learn new techniques. Thank you for sharing. Thanks to John and Chris for the great tips. Thanks to MicroJig for sponsoring the show.
HVLP means High Volume Low Pressure. I noticed a higher pressure was used and faster spray pattern. By lowering the pressure and spraying slower, more material will stay on the surface and not bounce off into the air (atmosphere) as demonstrated here. Yes, It takes a little more time and attention to spray, but you will save in material cost in the end and get a thicker coat without repelling gas and material into the atmosphere. You can run the risk of runs with the slower technique, but practice makes perfect.
Pro tip. Keep your turbine off the ground (on a spare 5 Gallon bucket) and as far away from your work area as possible. That way you avoid clogging your filters prematurely. One side of the Titan HVLP intakes air to cool the turbine, and the other side intakes air for the sprayer, so there is a lot of movement near the turbine unit. Keeping it out of the paint and overspray can help the filters last longer. I hope that helps someone. Oh, and Chris, It would be cool to see John on some more Idaho Painter videos! You guys should rename yourselves the RUclips Painters. LOL Thank you for your continued good content. You have made me a better painter.
I've been using that laquer for lots of years. that stuff is a big time saver. I use the Sherwood sealer 1 heavy coat then light sanding after 30 min the I spray the laquer. I also use a gravity hvlp 1.8mil tip for the sealer and 1.4mil tip for the laquer and I don't have to thin ennything out. it is a great product
I would say there are a couple more helpful TIPS to spraying lacquer that this video has overlooked. First, weather conditions. There are three weather conditions that need to be met when spraying lac, ESPECIALLY outdoors. First, the humidity needs to be less than 90%, the temperature and the dew point need to be at least 5 degrees apart and the temperature cannot be falling over the next 24 hours (falling as in, not rising back up). The finished lacquer pieces "GAS OFF" for hours, even up to several days. It is important that when gassing off, circulation of air continues and no pets or humans are in a closed area with the pieces. To avoid 'blushing' woods, especially dark stained wood, use a Lacquer Retardant. Just a capful in the cup. Strain lacquer before putting it in the cup. On vertical surfaces, spray a 'mist' or 'piss' coat, wait one minute and spray the heavy coat. It will create a matrix for the heavy coat to grab onto, and will prevent sagging and dripping. Remember that lacquer is very temperamental.
@@ElLoyler095 You apply the "piss" coat by only pulling the trigger part of the way so it can put a light mist on the door. It will dry in a couple minutes and then you can apply a full heavy coat. Remember with lacquer, you are trying to create a "matrix" (the "droplets" of lacquer connecting to each other is what creates the strength and smoothness) and it must be a nice full coat with no holidays.
As Steve pointed out, you can get excellent results with inexpensive equipment. I have an expensive Devillbiss HVLP gun that I can attach to a 1 quart pot or to my 2 1/2 gallon pressurized bulk tank depending on the size of project I have. I've also used my HF 1 pint gravity feed HVLP for smaller projects, as well as my HF cheapie airbrush for really small projects, in place of rattle cans. It's really more about the mix, the setup before hand, and technique than about the equipment. Adjusting the the mix of lacquer/thinner, airflow, fluid volume, the fan size and air pressure before the gun are paramount to good lacquer finishes. These are not all that difficult to get dialed in. Using some scrap cardboard as they did in the video helps a lot. I've used a small portable air compressor as well as my big shop compressor. Both were set up with canister filtration to remove oil and water so as not to contaminate the air hose and subsequently your lacquer. I also made up an inline, quick connect air regulator that I can connect right before my gun inlets. This is nothing more than a HF $15.00 pressure regulator with gauge and a male and female quick connect on either side. This saves in having to adjust the pressure at the air compressor and puts it right in your hand. My big 150 psi air compressor I keep set at 90 psi delivery to my shop. That's satisfactory to run all my air tools. With the inline regulator I can adjust as low as 5 psi or as high as line pressure. Most HVLP applications/guns only need 15-40 psi.
I personally like using the Lenmar UltraLaq when I spray cabinets, and I also use a compressor system, but I've been wanting to get an HVLP for a long time. These videos are awesome, keep up the great work!
I refinished all my doors using this method, same product. The issue I had was horizontal surface... it looked like crap. I was getting waves. I ended up standing everything vertical and the end product was much better. I was spraying straight lacquer, I didn't thin it and I believe that was the issue. I bought a cheap cup gun from Napa Auto Parts. I think I paid $45 and used my existing air compressor. Worked like a champ.
I have done a few projects with my HVLP sprayer, but I really try to avoid anything but water borne finishes. I recently remodelled nearly my entire house interior and I hand stained all my oak doors, then used General Finish water borne top coat. This worked very well and saved me a ton of time. The time is in the set-up and clean-up, applying the finish is so fast you feel guilty! I could have sprayed the stain, after thinning, but the stain is oil-based, and I just don't like putting that stuff on with my gun. If I had a second gun, then maybe I would, so that they would be separate. Anyway, nice video, and thanks for putting it together.
Steve Ramsay aaaaaannnd Idaho painter in the same video. Wow!! Anyone looking into making a RUclips chanel take notes from these 2 guys. Very informative. Thanks guys!
A couple of points: 1. Rockler makes the Paint pouring lid thingy. It's a life saver for pouring lacquer from a Gal to a gun can. 2. Sherwood Pre-Cat Hi-Bild is awesome. 3. Yes you can keep lacquer in the gun for some time. And yes it'll get a little crusty, but in the end if you just clean out the needle point you'll be fine.
Joel Crawford you don't want to touch the needle unless you absolutely have to, if something even slightly bends on the the whole nozzle needs to be replaced
I have used a similar equipment for the last 25 years. Of course it´s a little more primitive, but it works in the same way. You can save almost 2/3 of the amount of lacquer to the same film thickness compared to a conventional air spraygun. great stuff! Janne Bergstrom, Finland
Like the video Chris is a awesome painter 👍🏻 I usually spray with air on when cleaning out the gun use my finger to back up the fluid gets the little holes clean then I keep lacquer thinner in the cup throw the tip in there close it till the next time help is the only way to go
Hvlp gun stands for high volume low pressure, with that said the liquid cup is above the gun (I use them all the time doing auto body) what you have here is a siphon gun
Thanks for the demo. I tried using a sprayer. It works fine, although you have to fiddle with it to get the right pattern. And it takes some practice to avoid runs. And cleanup can take about as much time as the actual spraying. And then you have all the waste solvent to store. And then unless you do a lot of it, the finish material gets out of date.Soooo, I use water based poly and wipe it on with an old sock. Sock goes into a baggie between coats.
To give more technical information about the white goo that settles out on the bottom. I was a formulation chemist and if you have worked with DEFT lacquers then you have touched a formulation that had my hand on its formulation. TL;DR particles of a flattening agent settle out depending on its characteristics and if there an additive in the coating then it will help keep it held in suspension. You pay for what you get. In general, there are particles that create a uneven surface to transition micro sized smooth rolling hills to smooth to rigid boulders all over the place. A one ways to accomplish this gloss drop is using a silica, ex. AceMatt TS100, in a batch of coating as its being made. Silicas vary depending on the actual silica product. Examples of types of silicas is treated with a wax, untreated, hydrophobic, particle size, oil absorption, fumed silica... it's endless and they all have their own attitudes when formulating a coating. Another way to do this is using a wax. There are so many waxes and one example is Ceraflour 969. Waxes are sensitive to solvent blends and some will not work in water. How hard or soft the wax is will determine how well it performs in making a gloss drop. If its too soft then it will literally rub to a 90+ sheen or too hard and it will not "grind" into the batch creating a rough texture. Now to the actual goo at the bottom. There are additives in the coating that keep these particles held in suspension. ex. Disperbyk-103. Dispersants are chemical compounds that help hold up a product from settling. One way for this to happen is to have a section of the chemical compound have an affinity of hold the compound though a weak attraction to it. Imagine dropping a rock vs putting a parachute on a rock. These products can cost dollars to $18/lb. This can be expensive to the manufacture of the coating. You pay for what you get. If it hard settles then it might not have an additive in it. If it soft settles then it might have one. It all just depends on the characteristics of the flattening agent. Some need it, some don't . Buy a 30 sheen clear that has to be stirred every few hours versus buying a clear that costs $3/gal more and stirred once a day with an even gloss reading.
I used a sprayer to paint a room about 1y ago. I spent as much time cleaning as I did painting and since havent touched to spray system. Their cleanup seems very quick and easy... Maybe its just professionals vs me.
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. I was surprised how short the distance is between the spray gun and the object to paint/spray. I would expect a longer distance.
I have a faux bamboo set from the 70s with original finish. It's smooth like a countertop. I've painted furniture but never lacquer. I want to do the blue lacquer with a glassy high gloss shine. Do I need to lightly sand, prime? Does lacquer need any prep like paint? This is a very smooth piece. Like laminate almost. Sorry for all the questions. Can't seem to find anyone who knows.
Nice demo. I use lots of spray lacquer in can. I need to consider investing in HVLP. By the way, painting must be a serious workout. Chris has some major guns going on.
I noticed that when you pored the Lacquer that you had a LOT of spillage, when I worked with my Dad in his Cabinet shop, we had the same problem until we took a 10 pennie nail and put about 5 holes in the grove that holds the lid on. This also allowed any Paint/Lacquer or anything else to drain back into the can and not leave anything to clean up before replacing the lid. P.S. we always put a shop rag over the can lid before hitting it with the hammer to make sure that if anything didn't drain back into the can, Did Not spray us when we resealed the lid on the can.
Easy to just dip a pint container into the gallon can and put it in the cup until the gallon is controllable. Also, they did not strain the lacquer, which I always do.
You definitely should have gotten a WWMM tattoo on your arm standing next to those guys. (Even a temp. tattoo that you had spray painted on with a stencil before they arrived.) All the cool woodworkers have them now!!!
Thanks for the video, those B&K guys really know their stuff. This helped answer all of the questions I had about hvlp systems. John is a great presenter too!
Hey Steve, I'm a fifteen year old Canadian boy living in a suburban area with minimal power tools. Due to what I make (small objects and stools) I had two questions. 1 would a scroll saw be a worthwhile investment and 2 how can I make sure to get zero wobble or unevenness on the legs of the stools I'm making. I just don't know any other way without sanding the hell out of it. If you could answer my questions I would appreciate it, but I understand if you can't or you don't want to. I mean you are pretty busy after all. Either way keep up the great work I've learned a lot from your channel so thank you.
This is a good demonstration, would add that a sanding sealer step might be necessary, and appropriate respirators and protective gear are important. Most of the solvents can leach not only into mucous membranes in mouth, nose and eyes, but also through the skin. For diy'ers, it might be important to promote the practice of reading and following MSDS sheets for all volatile organic based coatings.
Like the gun you guys use. Looks better than mine. I'd only add that I flow my material thru a cone strainer into my cup and also hold the gun parallel to the vertical surfaces rather than rocking up and down.Otherwise, good video.
Matt Diresta I like the pneumatic ones better than the electric ones because I feel they are more consistent, lighter and easier to use. the electric one that I bought sucks. I'm used to using industrial sprayers from work and I wanted one to make easy work of a few projects at the house so I bought an all electric Wagner and I hated it. Even after practicing with it and trying to get the settings right, it just wouldn't give me the consistent quality that I would expect. And it was unbelievably loud. If you are going to get one, I would invest in a pneumatic one or one with a turbine (like the one they used), a few rolls of plastic or several drop cloths and a really good respirator and painters coveralls. A good, high quality gun could be the difference between an enjoyable experience and a disaster.
That's the start of what I was looking for. I have a Capspray 115 and 2 maxum elite guns. and in a similar vein as a CNC tutorial, I need a "feeds and speeds" tutorial for HVLP. This was a taste if that using laquer, how about oil base vs latex, can you use both in the same gun? I'm sure it would be cleaned in between but can that cleaning technique use here be trusted if you are switching paints?
What if you were to use water / oil based poly in an HVLP? Would you clean the same way? Or is there a different type of liquid cleaner you’d used instead of lacquer thinner? I’m assuming paint you’d clean with paint thinner?? Poly ... mineral spirits??
Nice. The one guy in the green shirt has a bit of a Christopher Walken vibe when he talks, which added 200% more entertainment value to my watching of this great vid
I may have missed it, but did you mention tip/nozzle size for the spray gun? A what about a small touch-up gun for smaller jobs when you don't want to mix up a quart? Great video, thanks for the info.
So catalyzed doesn't mean you're supposed to spray cattle with it? Is it bad to have all your cattle shiny? It's going to take a lot of turpentine to get all that off...
If you wanted to refinish grandma's old dresser on a Saturday afternoon for your Facebook post then this video is great. If you're getting paid by a client for a furniture quality finish or restoration, then search for that instead.
After spraying cabinets with Sherwin Williams Pre cat lacquer , the cabinet surface had a gritty feel, can I wet sand with 900 grit to smooth the finish?
Quick question.... What about disposal of the lacquer thinner you dumped out? What's the proper way to do that? I only ask because I end up using a lot of the stuff to clear out stain and poly from my sprayer.
Hey Steve, great videos i've seen a lot of them...you are inspiring. I've been trying to make a backgammon board and screwed it up a few times. I couldn't find anyone else making one on youtube so i was relying on my own intuition. Would love to see you make one!
What causes a dull finish after a coat of varnish? I used varnish over some English Chestnut stain and it dulled the finish. What is recommended to finish to a nice gloss finish?
Show us how todo it with a harbor freight gun and a 20 gallon air compressor. I have a graco 490 I have dedicated to laquer and sealer.never ran paint through the pump.and a fine finish 310 tip.that works great too
I thought HVLP spraying produced less over spray. The cloud of spray seemed just as big as a standard compressor with an old Binks spray gun. I'm going to reconsider purchasing a HVLP sprayer.
baked clam fab Maybe they chose a much larger tip for that small cabinet than require . I have been considering an HVLP sprayer for plantation shutters. I have a lot of them to build and paint for home
Tim D the tip size seemed right for the job, looks like a number two or three . but that is a very thin product. thicker paints will put out a little less over spray. but in the end it's all part of the job , prep is everything. if you ever need further advice you can call my shop number . visit automaticrepairco.com to get it. we repair and sell all types of sprayers .
Would you seal wood before you lacquer it? I've got a compressor set up that I've just purchased some lacquer for I tested it on an untreated slab of ash and there's literally hundreds of tiny air bubbles
Water-based lacquer. Waaaay better than getting higher than a kite from all the lacquer-thinner fumes. Still need a mask but not so much to filter out the volitile chems. Also, way easier cleanup and disposal of left-overs. Just another option.
Pro Tips: 1- When pouring your product, be sure to spill it all over the place. 2 - When spraying lacquer, especially for demonstrating to people who don’t know what they are doing, maximum brain damage can be achieved by not wearing any kind of respirator. (This brain damage will help with Tip 1)
Very informative indeed. But it looks like you have to use quite a lot of chemicals in order to thin the lacker and wash the whole setup afterwards. How toxic is this thinner? How do you dispose of it?
Good job. This stuff is not that hard to learn. I've sprayed many a gallons through a cheap gravity feed gun from HF. I also have turbine system. But for most of us weekend guys/gals, The less expensive set up from a HF works great. You will get professional results in short time frame. Use 1.4 nozzle for lacquer. 1.7 for paints. Lacquer retarder if a bit humid out. If real high humidity, wait another day.
This is a beautiful system. It's on the price side. Amazon has a Titan Capspray 115 Fine-Finish HVLP Paint Sprayer for $1,899.00, date February 27, 2017.
i love sprayers. but the biggest issue is seen at the end. The clean up can be wasteful in some applications as you have to deal with cleaning out the sprayer and if you dont do that right, it gets to be troublesome the next time you use it. Sprayers have far more control and you can tailor the product to fit your needs far better than just a spray bomb. You can control your spray and coats better with the big sprayers as well which is great. Always benefits and downsides to everything.
Answers to common questions! 1) This was just a quick demo I asked Chris & John to do while they were painting my house. Normally they wear respirators. Always wear a respirator when spraying lacquer. 2) They are professionals and have expensive equipment but the techniques are the same as I use on my cheapie set-up. I use this $80 kit that has three spray guns: amzn.to/2k3GxgO along with my little $100 compressor. 3) I'll still use spray cans for small projects. They are so convenient!
Ahhhhh ha!.....so your house was freshly painted....not in purple I might add.
"I just think it looks a lot better than the inexpensive lacquers that come out of a spray can" Boom! Did you have to put a cut right there because in the very next frame the fight broke out? :)
Haha! Dem's fightin' words.
Steve Ramsey You might want to pin your comment to the top, Steve. That way people will be sure to see it when they scroll down to the comments.
Nice collaboration Steve!! Very informative, specially the cleaning bit at the end.
I tore out an old gas fireplace and put in a kitchen pantry where it stood. When it was time for painting the fresh drywall I watched some of Paint Life's videos for pointers. It's amazing how many others RUclips channels you've come in contact with, Steve. Thank you for all you do and you've truly been paramount in my woodworking journey these last three years. Cheers.
Talk about timing! I was just about to hit the purchase button on another gun when I got the notification to this video. Watched it and changed my purchase. Thanks Steve!
Cool. I have a pretty cheap gun and it actually works pretty well with my compressor, but I definitely notice an improvement in the pro system like John was using here. Better adjustments and smoother flow of material.
Oh don't get me wrong, I clicked the link to the cheaper sprayer set you had in the description.
I've been spraying Deft brushing lacquer for 25 years. I started with a siphon gun but learned how to use a gravity feed cup gun when I worked in the paint department of an auto factory. Love the cup gun! It works well for automotive lacquer as well as solvent based paints.
jimbooth3 I've been using Minwax clear brushing lacquer in my HF HVLP gun for years and it works beautifully. It's also good on tools to prevent oxidation. I have no idea why the can says to use only for brushing, but I spray flawless finishes with it consistently on wood or metal.
jimbooth3, i have the same product. What thinning ratio do you use?
taterman320241
Basically the brushing lacquers are Nitrocellulose lacquer ,what people use to finish guitars
taterman320241 good tip for me to know. Thanx
What ratio do you use to thin your Deft lacquer? Thx
I didn't know this turbine for the spray gun. I like to learn new techniques. Thank you for sharing. Thanks to John and Chris for the great tips. Thanks to MicroJig for sponsoring the show.
HVLP means High Volume Low Pressure. I noticed a higher pressure was used and faster spray pattern. By lowering the pressure and spraying slower, more material will stay on the surface and not bounce off into the air (atmosphere) as demonstrated here. Yes, It takes a little more time and attention to spray, but you will save in material cost in the end and get a thicker coat without repelling gas and material into the atmosphere. You can run the risk of runs with the slower technique, but practice makes perfect.
Pro tip. Keep your turbine off the ground (on a spare 5 Gallon bucket) and as far away from your work area as possible. That way you avoid clogging your filters prematurely. One side of the Titan HVLP intakes air to cool the turbine, and the other side intakes air for the sprayer, so there is a lot of movement near the turbine unit. Keeping it out of the paint and overspray can help the filters last longer. I hope that helps someone. Oh, and Chris, It would be cool to see John on some more Idaho Painter videos! You guys should rename yourselves the RUclips Painters. LOL Thank you for your continued good content. You have made me a better painter.
I've been using that laquer for lots of years. that stuff is a big time saver. I use the Sherwood sealer 1 heavy coat then light sanding after 30 min the I spray the laquer. I also use a gravity hvlp 1.8mil tip for the sealer and 1.4mil tip for the laquer and I don't have to thin ennything out. it is a great product
I would say there are a couple more helpful TIPS to spraying lacquer that this video has overlooked. First, weather conditions. There are three weather conditions that need to be met when spraying lac, ESPECIALLY outdoors. First, the humidity needs to be less than 90%, the temperature and the dew point need to be at least 5 degrees apart and the temperature cannot be falling over the next 24 hours (falling as in, not rising back up). The finished lacquer pieces "GAS OFF" for hours, even up to several days. It is important that when gassing off, circulation of air continues and no pets or humans are in a closed area with the pieces. To avoid 'blushing' woods, especially dark stained wood, use a Lacquer Retardant. Just a capful in the cup. Strain lacquer before putting it in the cup. On vertical surfaces, spray a 'mist' or 'piss' coat, wait one minute and spray the heavy coat. It will create a matrix for the heavy coat to grab onto, and will prevent sagging and dripping. Remember that lacquer is very temperamental.
The last part, I spray the first coat, wait 1 minute and make another heavier coat? Like, while still wet?
@@ElLoyler095 You apply the "piss" coat by only pulling the trigger part of the way so it can put a light mist on the door. It will dry in a couple minutes and then you can apply a full heavy coat. Remember with lacquer, you are trying to create a "matrix" (the "droplets" of lacquer connecting to each other is what creates the strength and smoothness) and it must be a nice full coat with no holidays.
Thanks for including the cleaning part! I always wanted to know how much effort this is.
As Steve pointed out, you can get excellent results with inexpensive equipment. I have an expensive Devillbiss HVLP gun that I can attach to a 1 quart pot or to my 2 1/2 gallon pressurized bulk tank depending on the size of project I have. I've also used my HF 1 pint gravity feed HVLP for smaller projects, as well as my HF cheapie airbrush for really small projects, in place of rattle cans. It's really more about the mix, the setup before hand, and technique than about the equipment. Adjusting the the mix of lacquer/thinner, airflow, fluid volume, the fan size and air pressure before the gun are paramount to good lacquer finishes. These are not all that difficult to get dialed in. Using some scrap cardboard as they did in the video helps a lot. I've used a small portable air compressor as well as my big shop compressor. Both were set up with canister filtration to remove oil and water so as not to contaminate the air hose and subsequently your lacquer. I also made up an inline, quick connect air regulator that I can connect right before my gun inlets. This is nothing more than a HF $15.00 pressure regulator with gauge and a male and female quick connect on either side. This saves in having to adjust the pressure at the air compressor and puts it right in your hand. My big 150 psi air compressor I keep set at 90 psi delivery to my shop. That's satisfactory to run all my air tools. With the inline regulator I can adjust as low as 5 psi or as high as line pressure. Most HVLP applications/guns only need 15-40 psi.
I personally like using the Lenmar UltraLaq when I spray cabinets, and I also use a compressor system, but I've been wanting to get an HVLP for a long time. These videos are awesome, keep up the great work!
I refinished all my doors using this method, same product. The issue I had was horizontal surface... it looked like crap. I was getting waves. I ended up standing everything vertical and the end product was much better. I was spraying straight lacquer, I didn't thin it and I believe that was the issue. I bought a cheap cup gun from Napa Auto Parts. I think I paid $45 and used my existing air compressor. Worked like a champ.
I have done a few projects with my HVLP sprayer, but I really try to avoid anything but water borne finishes. I recently remodelled nearly my entire house interior and I hand stained all my oak doors, then used General Finish water borne top coat. This worked very well and saved me a ton of time. The time is in the set-up and clean-up, applying the finish is so fast you feel guilty! I could have sprayed the stain, after thinning, but the stain is oil-based, and I just don't like putting that stuff on with my gun. If I had a second gun, then maybe I would, so that they would be separate.
Anyway, nice video, and thanks for putting it together.
Steve Ramsay aaaaaannnd Idaho painter in the same video. Wow!! Anyone looking into making a RUclips chanel take notes from these 2 guys. Very informative. Thanks guys!
A couple of points:
1. Rockler makes the Paint pouring lid thingy. It's a life saver for pouring lacquer from a Gal to a gun can.
2. Sherwood Pre-Cat Hi-Bild is awesome.
3. Yes you can keep lacquer in the gun for some time. And yes it'll get a little crusty, but in the end if you just clean out the needle point you'll be fine.
Thanks Joel. Good tips!
Joel Crawford you don't want to touch the needle unless you absolutely have to, if something even slightly bends on the the whole nozzle needs to be replaced
Where can you find sher-wood hibild precat these days?
I have used a similar equipment for the last 25 years. Of course it´s a little more primitive, but it works in the same way. You can save almost 2/3 of the amount of lacquer to the same film thickness compared to a conventional air spraygun. great stuff!
Janne Bergstrom, Finland
Chris is the best, I always learn from his video's and tips, Thanks
Thanks...I'm glad you learn from my videos. Oh wait....different Chris....eh nevertheless...
Did not expect Idaho Painter to appear! Nice vid guys
I'm up for more finishing vids and less projects for a while. Keep em coming! Very good demo.
So many legends in this video.
Awesome video Steve! Big fan of you and Chris!
Like the video Chris is a awesome painter 👍🏻 I usually spray with air on when cleaning out the gun use my finger to back up the fluid gets the little holes clean then I keep lacquer thinner in the cup throw the tip in there close it till the next time help is the only way to go
One of your best informative videos. I will be doing this on a book case soon. Thanks
Man what a sick collaboration both you guys 👌👍
Love those guys. First saw them with Cody and Mrs. Wranglerstar. Thanks for the tips.
Hvlp gun stands for high volume low pressure, with that said the liquid cup is above the gun (I use them all the time doing auto body) what you have here is a siphon gun
Not an expert but with all the reading there are HVLP siphon guns. The issue there is the high pressure - that's not low pressure anymore.
Thanks for the demo. I tried using a sprayer. It works fine, although you have to fiddle with it to get the right pattern. And it takes some practice to avoid runs. And cleanup can take about as much time as the actual spraying. And then you have all the waste solvent to store. And then unless you do a lot of it, the finish material gets out of date.Soooo, I use water based poly and wipe it on with an old sock. Sock goes into a baggie between coats.
Pete M
A sock?
cotton. with holes! I've used paper towels on small surfaces (but it abrades rather quickly).
Thanks for a great insight. I really learned a lot in 10 minutes.
To give more technical information about the white goo that settles out on the bottom. I was a formulation chemist and if you have worked with DEFT lacquers then you have touched a formulation that had my hand on its formulation.
TL;DR particles of a flattening agent settle out depending on its characteristics and if there an additive in the coating then it will help keep it held in suspension. You pay for what you get.
In general, there are particles that create a uneven surface to transition micro sized smooth rolling hills to smooth to rigid boulders all over the place.
A one ways to accomplish this gloss drop is using a silica, ex. AceMatt TS100, in a batch of coating as its being made. Silicas vary depending on the actual silica product. Examples of types of silicas is treated with a wax, untreated, hydrophobic, particle size, oil absorption, fumed silica... it's endless and they all have their own attitudes when formulating a coating.
Another way to do this is using a wax. There are so many waxes and one example is Ceraflour 969. Waxes are sensitive to solvent blends and some will not work in water. How hard or soft the wax is will determine how well it performs in making a gloss drop. If its too soft then it will literally rub to a 90+ sheen or too hard and it will not "grind" into the batch creating a rough texture.
Now to the actual goo at the bottom. There are additives in the coating that keep these particles held in suspension. ex. Disperbyk-103. Dispersants are chemical compounds that help hold up a product from settling. One way for this to happen is to have a section of the chemical compound have an affinity of hold the compound though a weak attraction to it. Imagine dropping a rock vs putting a parachute on a rock.
These products can cost dollars to $18/lb. This can be expensive to the manufacture of the coating. You pay for what you get. If it hard settles then it might not have an additive in it. If it soft settles then it might have one. It all just depends on the characteristics of the flattening agent. Some need it, some don't . Buy a 30 sheen clear that has to be stirred every few hours versus buying a clear that costs $3/gal more and stirred once a day with an even gloss reading.
I used a sprayer to paint a room about 1y ago. I spent as much time cleaning as I did painting and since havent touched to spray system. Their cleanup seems very quick and easy... Maybe its just professionals vs me.
7:46 "a little bit of laquer thinner" lol that was a huge bit!
Awesome video. The Idaho Painter is the best!
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing. I was surprised how short the distance is between the spray gun and the object to paint/spray. I would expect a longer distance.
I have a faux bamboo set from the 70s with original finish. It's smooth like a countertop. I've painted furniture but never lacquer. I want to do the blue lacquer with a glassy high gloss shine. Do I need to lightly sand, prime? Does lacquer need any prep like paint? This is a very smooth piece. Like laminate almost. Sorry for all the questions. Can't seem to find anyone who knows.
Great video I’m trying to start doing that the spray cans are getting expensive thanks love your video’s always informative thanks again
Nice demo. I use lots of spray lacquer in can. I need to consider investing in HVLP. By the way, painting must be a serious workout. Chris has some major guns going on.
I noticed that when you pored the Lacquer that you had a LOT of spillage, when I worked with my Dad in his Cabinet shop, we had the same problem until we took a 10 pennie nail and put about 5 holes in the grove that holds the lid on. This also allowed any Paint/Lacquer or anything else to drain back into the can and not leave anything to clean up before replacing the lid.
P.S. we always put a shop rag over the can lid before hitting it with the hammer to make sure that if anything didn't drain back into the can, Did Not spray us when we resealed the lid on the can.
Easy to just dip a pint container into the gallon can and put it in the cup until the gallon is controllable. Also, they did not strain the lacquer, which I always do.
Impressive stuff Steve. But for us hobbyists who only occasionally want to spray lacquer, I reckon the can off the shelf is the go. Sooo simple :)
You definitely should have gotten a WWMM tattoo on your arm standing next to those guys. (Even a temp. tattoo that you had spray painted on with a stencil before they arrived.) All the cool woodworkers have them now!!!
I love your microjig segways
seigeengine I digress
The important thing about that that segues is...Microjig, maker of the grr-ripper
Thanks for the video, those B&K guys really know their stuff. This helped answer all of the questions I had about hvlp systems.
John is a great presenter too!
I think he is a natural even though I kind of put him on the spot!
He's the most mobile painter I know...out to Washington to see Wranglerstar, and now California to see Steve!
Hey Steve, I'm a fifteen year old Canadian boy living in a suburban area with minimal power tools. Due to what I make (small objects and stools) I had two questions. 1 would a scroll saw be a worthwhile investment and 2 how can I make sure to get zero wobble or unevenness on the legs of the stools I'm making. I just don't know any other way without sanding the hell out of it. If you could answer my questions I would appreciate it, but I understand if you can't or you don't want to. I mean you are pretty busy after all. Either way keep up the great work I've learned a lot from your channel so thank you.
This is a good demonstration, would add that a sanding sealer step might be necessary, and appropriate respirators and protective gear are important. Most of the solvents can leach not only into mucous membranes in mouth, nose and eyes, but also through the skin. For diy'ers, it might be important to promote the practice of reading and following MSDS sheets for all volatile organic based coatings.
Like the gun you guys use. Looks better than mine. I'd only add that I flow my material thru a cone strainer into my cup and also hold the gun parallel to the vertical surfaces rather than rocking up and down.Otherwise, good video.
i am now gonna buy a HVLP sprayer. I actually heard the electric ones work pretty good.. but ive never tried either. much love
Matt Diresta I like the pneumatic ones better than the electric ones because I feel they are more consistent, lighter and easier to use. the electric one that I bought sucks. I'm used to using industrial sprayers from work and I wanted one to make easy work of a few projects at the house so I bought an all electric Wagner and I hated it. Even after practicing with it and trying to get the settings right, it just wouldn't give me the consistent quality that I would expect. And it was unbelievably loud.
If you are going to get one, I would invest in a pneumatic one or one with a turbine (like the one they used), a few rolls of plastic or several drop cloths and a really good respirator and painters coveralls.
A good, high quality gun could be the difference between an enjoyable experience and a disaster.
Kendra Gray thanks for the info. 😃
We need the amateur version!!! I have a cheap harbor freight gun, waiting on your video!!!
This kind of IS. lol
I like you bringing on pros to demo - great video!
Do you need to clean the gun in between coats or can you just leave it until all the coats are applied ??
I typically clean at the end of a spray day
Nice tips... I build guitars and just started using a gun. Perfect timing for this video. Thanks Steve!!
That's the start of what I was looking for. I have a Capspray 115 and 2 maxum elite guns. and in a similar vein as a CNC tutorial, I need a "feeds and speeds" tutorial for HVLP. This was a taste if that using laquer, how about oil base vs latex, can you use both in the same gun? I'm sure it would be cleaned in between but can that cleaning technique use here be trusted if you are switching paints?
Good q's you ask, I am still learning the hard way too. Learned 1 ton from this vid and some of Matt lange's vids.
What if you were to use water / oil based poly in an HVLP? Would you clean the same way? Or is there a different type of liquid cleaner you’d used instead of lacquer thinner? I’m assuming paint you’d clean with paint thinner?? Poly ... mineral spirits??
Nice. The one guy in the green shirt has a bit of a Christopher Walken vibe when he talks, which added 200% more entertainment value to my watching of this great vid
Can I use a plastic HVLP sprayer like my HomeRite sprayer that I use for paint, or will the lacquer eat the plastic?
A is for Antiques...B is for Bevel...skip C...D...E...F...G...H..I...J...K...L is for Lacquer.
M is for Microjig. Maker of the Grr-Ripper!
Chris Parker Dont forget h for home and garden for mere mortals!
The Idaho Painter Hey Chris what do you make of gravity fed gun for wet dash finishes?
The the most traveling painter I know of!
I need to start using a sprayer. Seems like I could save a lot of time!!
Idaho painter,i love them
I may have missed it, but did you mention tip/nozzle size for the spray gun? A what about a small touch-up gun for smaller jobs when you don't want to mix up a quart? Great video, thanks for the info.
Those microjig bits , always get me! :D
Very nic work sire 👍👍👍 i am indian
Great video fun seeing you guys together. Could you maybe do a video on a small self contained HVLP unit not a commercial unit like the one you used?
Usually, HVLP stands for **MICROJIG!!!!***
Concordo.
Good video. When you use lacquer what speed do you use on the sprayer. Low or high I mean ( I or II )
What about the smell and venting if I did it indoors in the basement? How flammable is this?
I was hoping that at the end that he would spray the lacquer thinner over fire.
Great info and a great guest. Like his channel
So catalyzed doesn't mean you're supposed to spray cattle with it? Is it bad to have all your cattle shiny? It's going to take a lot of turpentine to get all that off...
Turpentine is not the correct solvent for the removal of lacquer. Lacquer thinner is.
@@coinholio6863 I don't know if you're going to want to be putting acetone on a cow...
Great info ! it's pretty much what do and it really that easy. Good stuff guys.
Great video Steve,and the projects!!
Great video. Any clear lacquer recommended to seal a latex paint job?
Thank you, l love your guidance
If you wanted to refinish grandma's old dresser on a Saturday afternoon for your Facebook post then this video is great. If you're getting paid by a client for a furniture quality finish or restoration, then search for that instead.
Great tips there, I have a really cheaper HVLP sprayer and I think I have used it once. Need to try again. I think
After spraying cabinets with Sherwin Williams Pre cat lacquer , the cabinet surface had a gritty feel, can I wet sand with 900 grit to smooth the finish?
How long to wait to recoat and how long have you got (approx) before you need to clean the spay gun - esp in between coats?
Will this gun fit American turbine system? Looks like the same fitting on bottom.thanks
Hey did u put finish over the sticker and knots?
I meaning you explain very well all te process. But look spray over it.... Though
Quick question.... What about disposal of the lacquer thinner you dumped out? What's the proper way to do that? I only ask because I end up using a lot of the stuff to clear out stain and poly from my sprayer.
I usually just pour it on my neighbors lawn
Great video, thanks for giving me good solid information. Please keep up the great work.
Excellent video!!! Thanks
Hey Steve, great videos i've seen a lot of them...you are inspiring. I've been trying to make a backgammon board and screwed it up a few times. I couldn't find anyone else making one on youtube so i was relying on my own intuition. Would love to see you make one!
What causes a dull finish after a coat of varnish? I used varnish over some English Chestnut stain and it dulled the finish. What is recommended to finish to a nice gloss finish?
ey guys I have a graco HVLP 9.5 what size a needle I need for spraying sher-wood lacquer ?
#3
Show us how todo it with a harbor freight gun and a 20 gallon air compressor. I have a graco 490 I have dedicated to laquer and sealer.never ran paint through the pump.and a fine finish 310 tip.that works great too
I thought HVLP spraying produced less over spray. The cloud of spray seemed just as big as a standard compressor with an old Binks spray gun. I'm going to reconsider purchasing a HVLP sprayer.
Definitely. HVLP is not for everyone and should be researched beyond this video. Thanks for watching!
Steve Ramsey BTW, I really do like your videos and projects. :-) (I should have started with that)
Tim D your going to get over spray no matter what you use. it all depends on your tip size as well
baked clam fab Maybe they chose a much larger tip for that small cabinet than require . I have been considering an HVLP sprayer for plantation shutters. I have a lot of them to build and paint for home
Tim D the tip size seemed right for the job, looks like a number two or three . but that is a very thin product. thicker paints will put out a little less over spray. but in the end it's all part of the job , prep is everything. if you ever need further advice you can call my shop number . visit automaticrepairco.com to get it. we repair and sell all types of sprayers .
If someone wears glasses will regular lacquer use ruin their glasses? If so is there any kind of protection for glasses that they can use?
Would you seal wood before you lacquer it? I've got a compressor set up that I've just purchased some lacquer for I tested it on an untreated slab of ash and there's literally hundreds of tiny air bubbles
yes
Water-based lacquer. Waaaay better than getting higher than a kite from all the lacquer-thinner fumes. Still need a mask but not so much to filter out the volitile chems. Also, way easier cleanup and disposal of left-overs.
Just another option.
Pro Tips:
1- When pouring your product, be sure to spill it all over the place.
2 - When spraying lacquer, especially for demonstrating to people who don’t know what they are doing, maximum brain damage can be achieved by not wearing any kind of respirator. (This brain damage will help with Tip 1)
Very informative indeed. But it looks like you have to use quite a lot of chemicals in order to thin the lacker and wash the whole setup afterwards. How toxic is this thinner? How do you dispose of it?
Good job. This stuff is not that hard to learn. I've sprayed many a gallons through a cheap gravity feed gun from HF. I also have turbine system. But for most of us weekend guys/gals, The less expensive set up from a HF works great. You will get professional results in short time frame. Use 1.4 nozzle for lacquer. 1.7 for paints. Lacquer retarder if a bit humid out. If real high humidity, wait another day.
Can I leave the thinner inside the sprayer for storage? I have a gravity feed hvlp compressor sprayer.
Great video. Very informative
I have a 20 gallons compresor , can I still spray lacquer on cabinets with it?
This is a beautiful system. It's on the price side. Amazon has a Titan Capspray 115 Fine-Finish HVLP Paint Sprayer for $1,899.00, date February 27, 2017.
Chris always looks like he's MMA ready.
Reminds me of Matt Serra.
i love sprayers.
but the biggest issue is seen at the end. The clean up can be wasteful in some applications as you have to deal with cleaning out the sprayer and if you dont do that right, it gets to be troublesome the next time you use it.
Sprayers have far more control and you can tailor the product to fit your needs far better than just a spray bomb. You can control your spray and coats better with the big sprayers as well which is great.
Always benefits and downsides to everything.
Are you going to be in the Maker Fair in Bay Area in May? I'm from Argentina and I'm planning to go and meet you!!!
oh its nice ideas and how to Learn how to use that spray gun