It’s just behind the coil block with 6 spark plug wires on it. There’s 3 black relays in the fuse box, the middle one is to the fuel pump. If the 3 black relays have the same number on them, you can swap the relays around to see if it’s the relay or not
Have a 2000 w/160k.....chasing a problem with weirdie fuel trims for a while now. 2cnd time changing the intake gaskets, finally got a seal on the china rails at the intake. Smoked the intake and replaced IAC & EGR valves and everything scanned to be perfect. Not a month later, LT fuel trims are 24+ while ST & O2 swing normal at idle or even out on the open road 70 mph. LT stays high no matter what. Fuel pressure at the rail is 50 psi and bleeds down to 40 psi within 30-mins. Vac hose on or off at regulator makes no difference to psi while running. Fuel pump gone weak?
I've seen this type of problem before with crankshaft position sensors. Has to do with temperature in a failing sensor. They work cold allowing startup, but after warmed up...they have to cool thoroughly again before working. worth a look.
Thanks I will look into this.. I was thinking maybe it was the fuel pump, but I never had a problem while it was running, only while it was starting. I have been banging my head for months trying to figure this one out. Thank yo so much!
Yeah...sounds like you have something that is on its way out, but not enough to throw an engine code. I had a Mercedes with the same symptom. Was the crankshaft sensor. Sensor wouldn't work when hot....sometimes. Would have to let it sit for an hour or so to cool the sensor down enough to work again. Then happened more often. Eventually quit altogether. Had the vehicle stall when it became worse.
Get a manual and check all of the sensors resistance. The manual will show you what's the resistance should be. Just always make sure to have no power to anything you are checking resistance on
General info: I've seen several Fords that will run fine when cold, but refuse to start or struggle mightily after a 20 minute soak. After sitting for another half hour, they'll start and run fine. Bad fuel pump. Might also have lean codes.
My 08 4.6L sometimes cranks for a bit before it burbles to a start while other times it starts right up. I've replaced the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body (took it off), replaced fuel filter, replaced all plugs and new coils. Fuel pump click on when turning key to aux so I know it pumping but how well is a guess. Any ideas what else could cause a hard start where it cranks over and over before barley starting? It's just weird because some times (mostly) it fires right up..
My issue was with the fuel pump.. the fuel pump starts to behave unreliably.. I also made a video of how to replace the crank shaft sensor.. my mechanical engineer friend said the the crank shaft position sensor or the cam shaft position sensor can cause issues with starting as well. It is worth looking into, if you are sure it is not a problem with the fuel pump... ruclips.net/video/AvfVn_ICqLg/видео.html
@@gregorykrahn6543 Yes Greg, it was a faulty fuel pump and a vacuum line under the intake manifold was broke. Had to remove the manifold to replace a .50 cent part. It's now running great especially for a 13 year old truck.
Did anyone check the fuel filter? Should be under the driver's door, mounted in a single bolt strap, on the frame. Also, examine fuel lines forward and back looking for erosion or hindrances.
SHOULD be, but it's not. The sucker is IN the tank. I'm living this nightmare now. Gotta drop the tank and it's full of fuel at the moment. Changing the fuel filter used to be a 15 minute job when I drove a Chevy. SCREAM
I had the same thing on my explorer, changed the fuel pump it was good for a year and a half now it’s doing it again, The truck is turning 18, The truck has been great the guy in the auto store said this truck doesn’t owe me anything so it’s time for a new vehicle I have to get ready to get raped by the dealer
Damn right, she's paid her way. Buy another, put this gal up and bring her back to life, Sir. These Trucks are ETERNAL... Take care of it and it will always take care of you.
@@jaynesnetwork I’m not sure I mean I replaced everything that triggers the p0191 and the code hasnt went away yet All that remains is a fuel pump, my lines are okay, filter is new, evap is good,injectors are clean and the engine harness is new
@@jaynesnetwork Update: Just changed the fuel pump this hour, check engine is still on but isnt flashing anymore, mechanic says use it for a couple of days and give me updates
@@gustavoalejandrocontrerasr3939 depends on your problem, mine misifiring and running lean, on warm start ups it was hard to start, fuel pump was the problem, took it to a shop to check fuel pressure beside the fuel pump and thats when I knew its the fuel pump
There’s so many things that he says they’re wrong. This is a perfect example of why the dislike button should come back and tell you how many dislikes there are because I’m sure if it was visible they would be way more dislikes than likes
Sorry, working on it... I think this video mainly me trying to figure out why my Ford would not start.. I think I finally figured out the answer though.. Thanks for the feed back...
@@jaynesnetwork just more stumbling on this video because I’m having a similar but more consistent problem with my 03 Explorer XLT. What was the problem with yours? I appreciated the video because I’m probably going to have to do the same thing and I don’t know much about cars. Thought you were very clear and helpful, making sure to demonstrate everything you were doing. Thanks!
The box has both relays and fuses in it. I believe I was commenting that I checked all the fuses as well, and also switched the relays into different sockets to check them too. The fuses, I actually pulled out one by one and looked at them visually, and also checked them with a DVM. The relays are easier to check if I swap them around into different sockets... Sorry for the confusion..
If the engine isnt running, the fuel that is leaking out is the stored pressure . you didnt see that the pressure went up after you turned the ignition on, i saw it , maybe you should watch your video before posting it.
Yes the pressure went up, but It dropped again. It seems that it should stay high?? Maybe different cars behave differently? This one is having an intermittent non-start issue, which I have been trying to diagnose/solve. It seems to have spark, but no fuel when it is acting up. Thanks again for the great comments...
Sure! Lets just throw money at the problem! BTW.. Are you a mechanic ;-) ??? Actually I did.. and the 'experts' at FORD were not able to fix the problem.. But I did!!! Thanks for the great comments!!
Yes I know.. Found On Road Dead. My buddy at work really loves Fords.. I have had mixed luck. I owned several Ford escorts back in the day.. and they were a pretty good vehicle, until the engine block cracks. I think I have finally fixed this issue with the Explorer.. I will make a video on the solution soon. Thanks for the great comments..
No offense you need to learn what stuff is called before you call yourself Doctor James just saying your clothes just not on that is not a distributor that is called a coil pack
It’s just behind the coil block with 6 spark plug wires on it.
There’s 3 black relays in the fuse box, the middle one is to the fuel pump.
If the 3 black relays have the same number on them, you can swap the relays around to see if it’s the relay or not
Have a 2000 w/160k.....chasing a problem with weirdie fuel trims for a while now. 2cnd time changing the intake gaskets, finally got a seal on the china rails at the intake. Smoked the intake and replaced IAC & EGR valves and everything scanned to be perfect. Not a month later, LT fuel trims are 24+ while ST & O2 swing normal at idle or even out on the open road 70 mph. LT stays high no matter what. Fuel pressure at the rail is 50 psi and bleeds down to 40 psi within 30-mins. Vac hose on or off at regulator makes no difference to psi while running. Fuel pump gone weak?
Hey brotha where did you get the adapter fof.the schrader valve? I have the same gauge but can't find the right size adapt for it
I've seen this type of problem before with crankshaft position sensors. Has to do with temperature in a failing sensor. They work cold allowing startup, but after warmed up...they have to cool thoroughly again before working. worth a look.
Thanks I will look into this.. I was thinking maybe it was the fuel pump, but I never had a problem while it was running, only while it was starting. I have been banging my head for months trying to figure this one out. Thank yo so much!
Yeah...sounds like you have something that is on its way out, but not enough to throw an engine code. I had a Mercedes with the same symptom. Was the crankshaft sensor. Sensor wouldn't work when hot....sometimes. Would have to let it sit for an hour or so to cool the sensor down enough to work again. Then happened more often. Eventually quit altogether. Had the vehicle stall when it became worse.
Get a manual and check all of the sensors resistance. The manual will show you what's the resistance should be. Just always make sure to have no power to anything you are checking resistance on
Pulling the fuel pump relay not a fuse!! But it will not release fuel pressure on a fuel rail. Like this guy stated
I believe what you identified as a fuse is actually a fuel pump relay
What size was that adaptor?
General info: I've seen several Fords that will run fine when cold, but refuse to start or struggle mightily after a 20 minute soak. After sitting for another half hour, they'll start and run fine. Bad fuel pump. Might also have lean codes.
Yes, it was a bad fuel pump.. it stopped working finally.. I did make a video about it..
ruclips.net/video/9LoFScXBMkg/видео.html
what year is that ford explorer
My 08 4.6L sometimes cranks for a bit before it burbles to a start while other times it starts right up. I've replaced the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body (took it off), replaced fuel filter, replaced all plugs and new coils. Fuel pump click on when turning key to aux so I know it pumping but how well is a guess. Any ideas what else could cause a hard start where it cranks over and over before barley starting? It's just weird because some times (mostly) it fires right up..
My issue was with the fuel pump.. the fuel pump starts to behave unreliably.. I also made a video of how to replace the crank shaft sensor.. my mechanical engineer friend said the the crank shaft position sensor or the cam shaft position sensor can cause issues with starting as well. It is worth looking into, if you are sure it is not a problem with the fuel pump...
ruclips.net/video/AvfVn_ICqLg/видео.html
@@jaynesnetwork thanks for the input, I'll check you other vid out
@@texasbradley did you ever figure the issue out. I have the exact problem currently
@@gregorykrahn6543 Yes Greg, it was a faulty fuel pump and a vacuum line under the intake manifold was broke. Had to remove the manifold to replace a .50 cent part. It's now running great especially for a 13 year old truck.
Signs of failing fuel pump. Pressure is dropping off.
Should be in tank with pump the regular on Ford explorer ?
You don't have the clear hose on to relieve the pressure and put in a cup to catch it
Did anyone check the fuel filter? Should be under the driver's door, mounted in a single bolt strap, on the frame. Also, examine fuel lines forward and back looking for erosion or hindrances.
SHOULD be, but it's not. The sucker is IN the tank. I'm living this nightmare now. Gotta drop the tank and it's full of fuel at the moment. Changing the fuel filter used to be a 15 minute job when I drove a Chevy. SCREAM
I had the same thing on my explorer, changed the fuel pump it was good for a year and a half now it’s doing it again, The truck is turning 18, The truck has been great the guy in the auto store said this truck doesn’t owe me anything so it’s time for a new vehicle I have to get ready to get raped by the dealer
Damn right, she's paid her way. Buy another, put this gal up and bring her back to life, Sir. These Trucks are ETERNAL... Take care of it and it will always take care of you.
Hmm thanks for the vid
My ‘10 has 30psi on all conditions and I wondered what was wrong
Mine was a bad fuel pump! Hope it is not the same for you??
@@jaynesnetwork I’m not sure
I mean I replaced everything that triggers the p0191 and the code hasnt went away yet
All that remains is a fuel pump, my lines are okay, filter is new, evap is good,injectors are clean and the engine harness is new
@@jaynesnetwork Update:
Just changed the fuel pump this hour, check engine is still on but isnt flashing anymore, mechanic says use it for a couple of days and give me updates
@@redman4life91 friend asks, could you solve the code p0191? I have an explorer 4.0 2006 same code
@@gustavoalejandrocontrerasr3939 depends on your problem, mine misifiring and running lean, on warm start ups it was hard to start, fuel pump was the problem, took it to a shop to check fuel pressure beside the fuel pump and thats when I knew its the fuel pump
My next mention was the fuel pump.
I started my 4.0 up and it showed 65. Right after turning off it was down to 60.
That's how is supposed to be.
It’s funny how your car had this but my truck which is the same doesn’t.
explorers with SOHC engines may not have them
There’s so many things that he says they’re wrong. This is a perfect example of why the dislike button should come back and tell you how many dislikes there are because I’m sure if it was visible they would be way more dislikes than likes
Thanks for trying, but making instructional videos is not a strong point for you.
Sorry, working on it... I think this video mainly me trying to figure out why my Ford would not start.. I think I finally figured out the answer though.. Thanks for the feed back...
I think he actually did a good job. Could use some work with the camera angles, but all in all, great video.
@@jaynesnetwork just more stumbling on this video because I’m having a similar but more consistent problem with my 03 Explorer XLT. What was the problem with yours? I appreciated the video because I’m probably going to have to do the same thing and I don’t know much about cars. Thought you were very clear and helpful, making sure to demonstrate everything you were doing. Thanks!
You never relieved the pressure after you pulled the relay , supposed to crank it
What was the problem ended up being?
It was a problem with the fuel pump.. After I replaced it.. the problem seems to have gone away.. I will try to make a video on this soon..
About 20 minutes later still indicates 60 psi turned off.
The problem is either your vacuum line is off your regualtor or the fuel regulator is bad
It was a problem with the fuel pump.. After I replaced it.. the problem seems to have gone away..
You really should specify year and engine size in the title
First, "that guy" is not a fuse, it is a relay.
The box has both relays and fuses in it. I believe I was commenting that I checked all the fuses as well, and also switched the relays into different sockets to check them too. The fuses, I actually pulled out one by one and looked at them visually, and also checked them with a DVM. The relays are easier to check if I swap them around into different sockets... Sorry for the confusion..
Actually some relays can be considered a fuse as the metal inside is only allowed to take so many amps before melting
Watching this video could make one dizzy
Your shrader valve looks lot bigger, mine looks about a 1/4 in diameter maybe it's just the camera.
I think there are different types. I borrowed this gauge from a friend, and I had to use an adapter to get it to the right size.
I like when my Shrader looks bigger than what it really is!
If the engine isnt running, the fuel that is leaking out is the stored pressure . you didnt see that the pressure went up after you turned the ignition on, i saw it , maybe you should watch your video before posting it.
Yes the pressure went up, but It dropped again. It seems that it should stay high?? Maybe different cars behave differently? This one is having an intermittent non-start issue, which I have been trying to diagnose/solve. It seems to have spark, but no fuel when it is acting up. Thanks again for the great comments...
Fuel trim readings?
The vehicle won't even start when it is having these issues..
@@jaynesnetwork I was asking if you have what all data specs should read.
@@jaynesnetwork do both sides have a fuel rail with a shader valve or only one side?
@@jaynesnetwork running at 7:23
aint no distributor on that dam truck what the hell
that's a relay not a fuse
It’s a coil pack.
It seems like a fuel problem? But I am open to any suggestions. It is making spark, when the problem is acting up..
Spay has in your intake and if it starts is a fuel problem
And if it starts the check your fuel pump ,fuel lines, fuel filter, injectors
I got an idea, take it to a mechanic!
Sure! Lets just throw money at the problem! BTW.. Are you a mechanic ;-) ??? Actually I did.. and the 'experts' at FORD were not able to fix the problem.. But I did!!! Thanks for the great comments!!
Your not going to have fuel pressure show on that gauge unless your cranking the engine..
I think as long as the ignition is on, the fuel pump is energized and pressure is created
jesus christ
Man. This guy is. Really. Slow
You can play the video on 2x speed, if that helps!??
you'd think a doctor would be smart enough to not buy a Ford. nice distributor ! LOL
Yes I know.. Found On Road Dead. My buddy at work really loves Fords.. I have had mixed luck. I owned several Ford escorts back in the day.. and they were a pretty good vehicle, until the engine block cracks. I think I have finally fixed this issue with the Explorer.. I will make a video on the solution soon. Thanks for the great comments..
This is not a good video.
It's a Ford. What u expect? Lol
Yes, this is TRUE!
No offense you need to learn what stuff is called before you call yourself Doctor James just saying your clothes just not on that is not a distributor that is called a coil pack
Ok Thanks for the tip!!!
True, but a coil pack that "distributes" spark. Just as our old distributers did.
That's a relay not a fuse