If you’re here with a new fuel pump and really low fuel pressure still check your grounds… Was just under my truck all weekend and it was just a crusty ground right at the firewall
That is a moment of discovery that is both irritating and deep relief. The same thing happened with my car, already known to have a persistent damp area at the front door hinge-- exactly where the fuel pump ground was found to join other device ground lines at a single, rusty screw. The repair was easy, at that point. After testing for recovered function of other, connected devices, I made sure the ground screw was cleaned, and ground connectors were soldered in-place
Thanks! I was chasing parts on my Nissan Xterra. No mechanic could tell me what was wrong. But, you nailed it. Black sludge in the throttle body and coming out of the tailpipe. Problem with my Xterra is that they put the FPR in the worst spot. You have to pull the entire intake and supercharger off the engine to get to it. Ugh.
Just replaced the fuel pump on 2001 Accord and still misfire p0300 p0301 p0302 p1399. Before i replaced the fuel pump i thought it needed the fuel filter replaced but it’s all in the gas tank. Wish I’d seen this video before i didn’t have to spend 3 hrs to work on fuel pump replacement ($26 delphi fuel pump not the whole fuel pump from Advance Auto $300+ ). Great video very clear explanation, great quality. Thanks a lot! Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍁🍽
Saw this on RUclips. Had issues with our 08 Avalon not starting, right away. Took several cranks before starting. Here is how I found it was a bad FPR . Turn your key...3x to the on position...but do not turn to start the car. What that does...it forces pressure to the fuel rail. After 3x, start the car. It should crank right away....mine did ... Changed the FPR ...problem solved !!!
I have black smoke come out my left tail pipe I changed the fuel regulator and I have no more black smoke it did exactly what you said well done thanks 😊
Very informative video man that was awesome, I actually went to my notes on my phone and took some notes while watching it so I could look back on it later. After watching I don’t think my problem in the FPR but still thank you for the great and well explained info!
GREAT explanation! I am chasing fuel pump/regulator/fuel filter because my 2004 Toyota ACR30R feels fuel starved - typically drops out when under acceleration or higher revs. Actually, I can usually accelerate hard OK for the first 5 minutes, but after that I have to stay very light on the accelerator and lose speed up the hills in order to avoid misfiring and dying. Also when it dies completely, I just back off accelerator for a few seconds and then can drive (lightly) again. It doesn't completely stall even though and is an auto. I ordered an OBD, and have measured fuel pressure at 45psi, but didn't check this pressure when engine is off (like you show here). I have had spark plug coils fail before, but they were 1 cylinder at a time, not killing the whole engine, so this feels different.
I changed the pressure regulator and if fixed the problem. The symptoms were In the morning cold start the engine would idle poorly like it needed more gas then engine would turn off when I came to a stop. And it would sometimes smell like leaking gas in the mornings. Those are the symptoms
I had 5 leaking injectors of 6 in my 02 toen and country 3.3l was flooding. Replaced them ran well for 2 weeks now I get a crank no start as if I have no fuel. I did a toggle test where I key on off 5 times and it will start right away. If I do 4 cranks it will just about start and fail if I do just 3 or 2 or 1 it won't start at all. So leaning on loss of pressure versus totally dead pump. This vid has helped with my land rover. Now I need to figure how to do my van. As I don't know how to pull the regulator out.
My 1990 f250 351w smells like gas just from cranking the engine. Hard to start. My oil smelled like gas bad and was very runny and over filled from gas being in it. New map, new tps, iac was cleaned and seems to be ok. I’m getting a code 31 with koeo test. Also get a 21,24,and 26 but I believe those are just testing out of range because the engine isn’t up to temp. I’m getting bad flooding obviously. Code 31 is egr sensor is below voltage. I have 5 v at harness coming from ecu. Sensor Olms are good. But that’s not the issue for the flooding I don’t think cause it doesn’t come into play until it’s up to operating temp. If. I put new plugs in it it starts and runs good but then I shut it down and the issue starts all over again. Exhaust is staining the ground like in this video. Also have a new coil. Cap rotor and plugs were new but plugs are fouled again soaked with gas. The little interference capacitor by the coil somehow has a melted harness. I’ve heard that those do more than just keep noise out of the radio. I’ve heard they can cause all kinds of issues. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge so I haven’t tested the regulator. I’m thinking it’s either the regulator or a stuck or leaking injector. When I pull the plugs some are really wet and other are just black. Any ideas are welcome. It’s frustrating me. Oh and my egr tube is broken right where te ribbed part is. Could this be the cause? Idk cause of how the egr system works. Could it be causing hard start and flooding somehow. New o2 sensor also. There is so much gas getting through that when I changed my tps there was gas down in it
Hi. Grateful for your video. So, I drive a BMW X3 2008 edition and it has its fuel pump system inside the tank. I recently tried to replace the fuel pump, but I had to remove the vacuum hose, other plugs etc. within the fuel system, to be able to access and replace the pump. In doing the replacement, I think I may have unplugged and left the vacuum hose sitting inside the fuel tank, which may have allowed some fuel to get in. And because I wasnt conscious at the time I was reassembling, I just plugged the vacuum hose back on the fuel system without trying to get the fuel that may have gotten in out (if it was even possible). My question is, could that cause the fuel regulator to become faulty and if it isnt faulty already, is there a way to get that fuel out of the vacuum hose if it not too late already? The reason is, my car has been having a long crank when starting cold or after it sits for about 20mins since that replacement. Thanks.
First, you need to remove any fuel from the hose, then connect it properly. You may have to replace the regulator, but correct the hose issue first and see if that takes care of it before replacing the regulator
Have a lot of symptoms you described. P0300 code on and off, slow crank no start intermittent runs great when it starts except times it has hesitation a bit when first driving but drives great within 10 minutes or so, checked pressure without truck being able to start just turned key and reading wasn’t where it should have to be and also it dropped slowly when connected. Just changed fuel pump, starter new spark plugs, wires ignition module currently has no codes, but we noticed fuel smell on dipstick. Is that a symptom? It’s a vortec 305, 1998 Chevrolet C1500. Do you think it’s the pressure regulator or maybe something else? Your video was very informative and thank you for that. Just getting frustrated with this crank no start intermittent problem. Appreciate any ideas. Thank you
very good explanation! in my Honda odyssey I had miss fire 2 cylinder , i changed all spark plugs and put new injector cylinder 2&6 checked all coils and all coils are good. There still is miss fire 2 and 6 cylinder but i never checked the fuel pressure.if any one has same problem can you give me some advice? Thank you!
@PhillipsVision I had some codes a while back but was erased. Happends when in 4cyl mode. When it shifts back to 8cyl it goes away. My thought is it may e has something to do with the AFM system. Or the valves
I have no fuel pressure tester but a great scanner. Can I get the fuel pressure out each injector on the Snap On Scanner instead ???? I’ve a limp over 80mph. Under load. High speed after 90 mins. Otherwise fine. Sold car. Came back.
wonderful explanation, do you know where it the fuel pressure regulator on a nissan titan 5.6l? it is on the hi pressure fuel pump? hopefully you will see this message...
If your fuel pressure reg was going bad or was bad. wouldnt your plugs look bad? my front 3 plugs look just about perfect....lil bit of oil down inside and around the insulator...but the eletrode and insulater look tan..and clean. Im getting a 0172 code and my lite is on and my mpg is suffering.
After replacing a fuel pump in a 2004 Chrysler T&C. I now have to turn the key 2-4 times before starting. Is it typical for the fuel pressure regulator to fail after a fuel pump replacement? The fuel pump was original and had cracks. I did not have an issue starting it prior to the fuel pump replacement.
I’m smelling fuel/exhaust coming through my vents in my car when the AC is on. Is that another sign of the fuel pressure regulator? We drive a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan.
Hey nicely done video! I have a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 3.3L. There is a small 1/8 ID vacuum hose on rear of intake plenum that leads to fuel pressure regulator. It was disconnected for a long time unnoticed because it's hidden. I wasn't having any issue with it disconnected, and when it was reconnected it made no difference either. Do some vehicles just not utilize or notice a difference? No misfire codes or anything except EGR solenoid, which came back after I erased codes and with vacuum line attached, so nothing there. Thanks!
Hello, my Toyota Auris 1.6 2008 has fuel pressure problem, because I think after other repairs my conclusion was no fuel pressure, the car has a hard start and once it’s starts it runs good unless leaving off few hours, then comes the hard start again. Do you have any idea. May fuel pressure regulator? The fuel pump works perfect.
I had to replace my fuel pump sender unit luckily there was an access panel under the rear seats to get into the fuel tank and it’s an all in one unit so regulator also got changed
Excellent video! You explain that so well! I have been having a problem with this fuel pressure regulator in my 2016 Kia Soul 1.6l I'm getting conflicting information I'm searching all over the internet on where this part is located some say it's in the fuel pump and some say it's off the fuel rail on the driver side. Without taking anything apart I'm trying to look and see if I can see it in the engine and I can't see it. I'm wondering if it's behind the intake. Would you happen to have any ideas where this is located on my kia soul? RENMAN
If you Google year make model as in looking for parts when you find the part sometimes it will show diagrams.. that's how I found mine lol its a lot smaller then I thought it was because of pictures I had seen 😊 Hope that made sense and helps
Hi can this cause a car to stall when driving and also longer crank starts?Ive checked fuel pump and it's working great and I also have really low fuel pressure from the in tank fuel pump.
Hello, l have an 08 Lexus IS250. The car has a rough cold start, sometimes it doesn’t even fully turn on anymore. A couple of weeks ago, shooting some starter fluid in the intake will get it to start, but now it doesn’t. When cranking, it has 0 FRP(psi). As of right now, the car does not start. Does this mean the fuel pump is bad, or is it the regulator? Looking forward to your response!
Could be the fuel pump if the pressure is bad. You can start with the regulator since it’s cheaper and see what happens. If you are able to check you pressure at the pump do that since that will pinpoint if the pump is the issue. Also test the pump relay, if that’s bad your pump won’t work.
@@PhillipsVision Thanks for the reply! Some things I forgot to mention; before the rough start, my car died randomly while driving out my parking spot. The following day is when I noticed the hard start, and the stalling. Went to check for codes, and it had a pending code that had something to do with the MAF sensor. So I replaced it. And still had a rough start/no start. Had another mechanic check it out; he claimed it was the fuel injection cold start valve. We replaced that as well, and the same issue happened. Now mechanic states " We should verify it's 1: spraying 2: got pressure 3:getting electrical signal. I did those tests with the old one, so I should've repeated them. Let's plan another trip and keep playing with it in the meantime. It's possible the check valve in the low pressure pump is leaking, or maybe not running at all, hence checking for pressure at cold start injector.
@@PhillipsVision Air filter, and throttle body was both good. No build up on the throttle. I sprayed some starter fluid today and it ran again for about 30 min. Then suddenly, it stalled. Tried turning it on, it turned on maybe twice, but had no power to accelerate. Then, it didnt turn on anymore. Bad fuel pump? or an electrical issue?
Very informative video , thankj u. i have a 98 toyota avalon 3.0 v6 and my pressure should be within range of 44-50 psi. i just checked the pressure and its at 52-54 psi. would that be an indication of a bad fuel pressure regulator ? it just popped up a code with a p0303 misfire on cylinder 3 .
Yes, a high fuel pressure can be due to a bad regulator. High pressure can cause a misfire, but could also be bad spark plugs and/or spark plug cables.
Having bought a code scanner recently, I frequently monitored status. I was code-free until recently, after I over-filled my gas tank (meaning I depressed the pump lever beyond the auto-shutoff point). Will the code disappear as I use the gas in the over-filled tank?
@@PhillipsVision Thanks for asking. The code is P0401, which is EGR-related. "Insufficient exhaust gas recirculation "A" Flow Detected". I had just replaced the EGR with a new unit, so the EGR code surprised me. Yet, as someone else explained, the EGR solenoid/valve is only part of the tubing, and the rest probably contains heavy carbon soot build-up. So, I face the deeper project of using an old speedometer cable, attached to a drill driver, to wipe the inside of the EGR tubing upstream of the EGR, itself. Then, clearing codes, and rescanning after a day or two of driving. As a "veteran" DIY, I am constantly learning.
@@bobgreene2892 also check your EGR tube for breaks and cracks. Just helped a friend who had the code and what I found was a rusted hole on the backside of the EGR tube
I was told that if the regulator goes bad and gets stuck that fuel will not enter the fuel rail my issue was van shut off I sprayed starting fluid into intake and engine wanted to almost start so normally I'd think the fuel pump went bad so I replaced fuel pump fuel filter fuel relay and fuse still no start so I pressed valve on fuel rail which is just passed the fuel regulator normally fuel shoots out in my case it did not so I took off fuel pressure regulator and there's gas coming out the fuel line and out the regulator so I was told the regulator is stuck closed and won't allow fuel in fuel rail
Hi, I replaced my fuel pressure regulator even though I wasn't having any problems with it. After I replaced the fuel pressure regulator I began to hear that loud whining noise coming from the fuel pump. Could a new fuel pressure regulator put stress on an old fuel pump? Before I installed the pressure regulator the fuel pump made a low humming sound. The car drove fine, only the pump was loud, Thanks.
@@PhillipsVision yup drive trian code same thing bank 2 all it says was bank 1 but after I changed 3 of the 4 censors says bank 2 now,also changed filter and the map sensor.po155 code
Fuel smell in the cabin (Have had it for a year and a half and didnt kmow) and fuel in your oil making it black sludge, I'm also replacing the oil pressure sensor too because of this. Hoping its not the oil or gas pump.
Do you have video that shows steps without Schrader valve access on fuel rail. If so link please... edit .... found episode of yours that list other videos with info without Schrader valve 😊😊
I have a video showing how to check fuel pressure without a schrader valve, here’s the link: ruclips.net/video/p1CgodbwLe0/видео.htmlsi=PSbq7a6yfqBRrdMN
At 1:45 you said the fuel will get into your system, bypassing the injectors. Do you mean if the regulator's diaphragm is ruptured, the engine vacuum can suck it into the inlet manifold ? If not, how can fuel get into the combustion chamber, if not through the injectors ?
Hey man whts up. I have a question. My car takes forever to speed up and the rpms go up before the speed does. Like the cars revving but im not pressing it hard for it to rev that loud at a low speed like 20. It eventually does speed up but takes long than it should. Car has a rough idle and shakes at cold start up mostly. Lastly the fuel economy is terrible. Ive had to change a ruined cat, o2 sensor, and fuel pump but still nothing. Runs exactly the same. Please help really struggling ti figrure this out 🙏
Are you getting any engine codes? Could be the throttle body, throttle position sensor or Idle Air Control Valve among others. The engine codes will help pinpoint it
might wanna look at transmission. torque converter in particular maybe. Hows your trans fluid look? should be red and clear. No metal sparkles or black sooty particles (clutch material). does trans fluid smell burnt? torque converter could be toast
I have a 99 buick regal ls model it just started having hard start and if i step on gas hard it bucks jerks and if i do not let up on gas it will stall i hear my fuel pump come on when i turn key but is not as loud would that be pump or regulator? It doesnt have any codes thanks for any info
Hi. I have random misfire. I got code p0300 and code about evap. I replaced new fuel injectors I checked the fuel pressure like you . On the gage reads zero pressure. My car doesn't die but it doesn't give me good acceleration. Engine light is on. What could be? Fuel pressure regulator or my fuel pump is dying? My engine is 5.3 vortec. Please let me know. Thank you in advance
If your 5.3l is like mine, you should have a schrader valve underneath near the fuel filter (driver side). Get a reading of the pressure there. If that’s good it could be the pressure regulator, if it’s bad then it’s the fuel pump.
@PhillipsVision hi man. I didn't find a valve closer to the fuel filter. But the day I checked the pressure and it was zero, I before that I replaced all 8 fuel injectors. So after couple day when I recheck the pressure from the rails it was almost 50. When I turned the car off after 10 20 minutes it gained closer 52. So I learned that the pressure built up over time when you replaced fuel injectors or something opening the fuel line. Amazing the fuel pump works. Thank you a lot for advice. You are cool
Would a bad fuel regulator cause the engine to splutter then stall after starting. It happens intermittently. Usually it starts fine the second time i start it. No noticeable loss of power under acceleration. No black smoke. Any ideas? Thank u
@@PhillipsVision no codes. It does smell a bit rich on start up but fuel trims are good. Sometimes it'll start but sounds like its running on 2 cylinders for about 2 seconds then dies. No misfires on scan tool either
I’m fighting a PO300 code replaced injectors,plugs wires,coils it’s a Ls swap in 89 c1500 I’m using a 255lph pump,corvette regulator,6an lines and new sending unit. I have 58 psi when it primes and at idle it has 70. Would that be causing my PO300
Hi. My 2011 GMC slows down when I drive (the speed decreases on its own). I have to pump the gas to start my vehicle every time I put gas in it. Please tell me what’s wrong with my vehicle? My mechanic is trying to charge me $1,300 but everyone is saying that he’s taking advantage of me.
Could be your fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge and get a reading from the schrader valve on the fuel rail. If it’s below the required pressure, you need to replace the fuel pump assembly. If you do it yourself it can be done for around $150
@@PhillipsVision $150? OMG! That’s a lot cheaper than $1,300! I guess I’m off to RUclips to see how to replace my fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Thank you!
I have a 1995 GMC G2500 Vandura 5.7. Im trying to narrow down what my issue is. The car runs great during idle but if I give it some gas it bogs down and acts like it wants to stall. I cant tell if it could be the injectors, Fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter because the Fuel pump is new.
@@paulbellefeuille2289 There should be a valve on the fuel rail called a schrader valve, connect the gauge there. Here’s a video where I show how to do it: ruclips.net/video/rAJOSQcmnqA/видео.html
First of all thank you for great videos. I have a problem and i need your help. I changed fuel pump and fuel filter on my NB. When i put ignition i don't hear the pump priming at all and i try to start the car and the engine crank not starting and then suddenly like explosion and I'm getting leak from fuel filter area. Do you think it can be clugged injectors? Or bad fuel pressure regulator?
@@PhillipsVision I have already changed it with a new one. I hear the fuel pump relay switch when i turn ignition on. I just don't have any idea after cranking engine not starting when starting leak from fuel filter cable
@@mertgayretlii where is it leaking on the filter, from the connections or the canister? Also, the fuel pump wiring could be damaged. You may have to test the wires to find the issue.
@@PhillipsVision The fuel filter pipe connection with wiring. I have leak right there when i look the cable or wiring i dont know how to call it does not seem any damage. How i can test the wiring?
hey man! i have a g35 that recently backfired on me while cruising in 3rd around 3200 rpm. i put it in nuetral and slightly pressed the gas again and the car stalled and stopped starting reliably. it has since started up twice no problem and sound great but suddenly dies after about 10 seconds to a minute. smells very badly of gas when it does run. wondering if a faulty damper or regulator could cause this?
@@PhillipsVision thanks im 14 and bought my truck the guy told me all it needed was a fuel pump relay well he was very wrong. i had to fix everything fuel related from the tank to the motor and and the whole motor, its a treat,🤣🤣
What should I do my fuel pump isn’t sound good too i am going to test the fuel pressure today as well if it doesn’t start then do I change the fuel regulator
Philips, thank you so much for your display, I have my vehicle Toyota Hilux Kun 25 with crank no start, no fuel coming out from fuel filter and I suspect fuel regulator from tank or injector pump so please can you assist my with thoughts, thank you.
The P0304 code pertains to the 4th cylinder misfire. A bad fuel pressure regulator can cause a misfire, but usually a P0300 - random misfire. It could be your 4th cylinder fuel injector. If you vehicle has coil packs, ignition cables and plugs. It could be the cable at cylinder 4 as well.
I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter engine. When the temperature outside is over 85°F then my engine acts as though it is vapor locking. I know that isn't a thing on new vehicles but we changed the fuel pump and it is still happening. Any ideas as to what could be causing it? My local mechanic has no idea.
Have you tested the fuel pressure after replacing the pump to make sure it is at the right psi? If that’s fine, it could also be the pressure regulator
What if the regulator is integrated into high pressure fuel pump in a GDI system? My issue is that the fuel rail pressure sensor shows that the high pressure keeps increasing, so over-pressurizing. the regulator is called Fuel volume control valve. VCV. I replaced the whole high pressure fuel pump and issue persists :(
@@PhillipsVision OEM. It's a bit strange in open loop the VCV sems to work or when I rev but in closed loop vcv stays open all the time and pressure increase to even 3750 psi
I've been having issues with fule pumps constantly failing. After about 50 miles driving, truck wants to die out and backfires. If I pull the vacuum line to the FPR it starts to idle and it should. I've gone through 4 furl pumps already and seem to keep happening. I question the vacuum line
I've got a very slight misfire but no engine check light or obd2 codes. Replaced my diesel filter but no luck. Should the diesel fuel pressure be the same pressure at all times or does it fluctuate at times?
Would the pressure regulator have anything to do with how long the fuel pump primes? Mine stays on for about two seconds and usually it won’t start after a few cranks on my 00 Sierra 1500
It would not. On average they prime about 2 seconds. You may have problems with the filter or Injectors. I would check the pressure at the rail, if the pressure is good then it’s most likely your Injectors
@@PhillipsVision I’ve changed out the fuel pump and the fuel filter! I wouldn’t have noticed anything but my sons pick up which is an 02 1500 hd he just turns the key and bam it’s on
When you turn key it should come on for about 5 seconds to prime and that's it the fuel pressure regulator only allows the correct pressure into the fuel lines and has nothing to do with pump priming
@@cheeseburgers82 thanks Travis for the reply. The pick up doesn’t start after a few turns, my son has a 02 Chevy 1500Hd and he just even looks at the ignition and it starts right away! Just trying to get mine to start right away!
Just had a fuel pump out in my 07 ram 1500 been fine for 2 months. All a sudden I am having a long crank time here an there not all the time tho..any ideas?
@@PhillipsVision I have not. Just paid them 400 to install a new fuel pump would think it should be fine but that is what it reminded me of is when the pump went out. Going to swing by there 2maro an say something to them. Thanks 🙏
Can a bad fuel regulator cause a misfire just on startup, and it goes away in about 30 seconds? It is a really bad misfire, i have replaced the fuel pump and filter already. I also have been having rich codes. Thanks.
I keep getting PO171 changed MAF and 3 02 sensors I got code 300/301/302/303/304 is this a sign of regulator. When I turn on the car RPM goes to 2 then 1 up and down while it’s warming up thanks
I have a 2007 VW Passat 2.0T - FSI engine & the car has 2 fuel pumps , It has the Low Pressure fuel pump in the gas tank & There is a High Pressure fuel pump up at the engine , The problem I'm having is when I hook up the fuel pressure gauge & Start up at the engine for the Low pressure fuel pump the gauge will go crazy , The PSI will stay around 60 to 80 PSI but the pressure gauge needle jumps back and forth very rapidly where I can't almost see it / The needle moves so fast between 60 & 80 PSI , Anyone ever seen anything like that before ? And what could be cause it ?
If you’re here with a new fuel pump and really low fuel pressure still check your grounds… Was just under my truck all weekend and it was just a crusty ground right at the firewall
What ground?
For me it was the one going from the passenger control arm to the firewall
@@GabrielFlores-hp7jn
Power ground.
The fuel pump needs two lines from the battery, positive 12V and the ground, which is 0V.
That is a moment of discovery that is both irritating and deep relief. The same thing happened with my car, already known to have a persistent damp area at the front door hinge-- exactly where the fuel pump ground was found to join other device ground lines at a single, rusty screw.
The repair was easy, at that point. After testing for recovered function of other, connected devices, I made sure the ground screw was cleaned, and ground connectors were soldered in-place
Thanks it has been so good 👍 and I have taken a point 👉 from your explanation
Thanks! I was chasing parts on my Nissan Xterra. No mechanic could tell me what was wrong.
But, you nailed it. Black sludge in the throttle body and coming out of the tailpipe.
Problem with my Xterra is that they put the FPR in the worst spot.
You have to pull the entire intake and supercharger off the engine to get to it.
Ugh.
Just replaced the fuel pump on 2001 Accord and still misfire p0300 p0301 p0302 p1399. Before i replaced the fuel pump i thought it needed the fuel filter replaced but it’s all in the gas tank. Wish I’d seen this video before i didn’t have to spend 3 hrs to work on fuel pump replacement ($26 delphi fuel pump not the whole fuel pump from Advance Auto $300+ ). Great video very clear explanation, great quality. Thanks a lot! Happy Thanksgiving 🦃🍁🍽
Saw this on RUclips.
Had issues with our 08 Avalon not starting, right away. Took several cranks before starting.
Here is how I found it was a bad FPR .
Turn your key...3x to the on position...but do not turn to start the car. What that does...it forces pressure to the fuel rail.
After 3x, start the car. It should crank right away....mine did ...
Changed the FPR ...problem solved !!!
What was the problem?
A bad fpr lol @@staceyreeves9523
Excellent video! Very informative without the unnecessary hoopla.
I have black smoke come out my left tail pipe I changed the fuel regulator and I have no more black smoke it did exactly what you said well done thanks 😊
I hope this is the last thing I need to fix, just replaced pcv and fuel pump in back, cleaned throttle and maf
@@enriquet548results??
Very informative video man that was awesome, I actually went to my notes on my phone and took some notes while watching it so I could look back on it later. After watching I don’t think my problem in the FPR but still thank you for the great and well explained info!
GREAT explanation! I am chasing fuel pump/regulator/fuel filter because my 2004 Toyota ACR30R feels fuel starved - typically drops out when under acceleration or higher revs. Actually, I can usually accelerate hard OK for the first 5 minutes, but after that I have to stay very light on the accelerator and lose speed up the hills in order to avoid misfiring and dying. Also when it dies completely, I just back off accelerator for a few seconds and then can drive (lightly) again. It doesn't completely stall even though and is an auto. I ordered an OBD, and have measured fuel pressure at 45psi, but didn't check this pressure when engine is off (like you show here). I have had spark plug coils fail before, but they were 1 cylinder at a time, not killing the whole engine, so this feels different.
Did u figure it out having some issues
I changed the pressure regulator and if fixed the problem. The symptoms were
In the morning cold start the engine would idle poorly like it needed more gas then engine would turn off when I came to a stop. And it would sometimes smell like leaking gas in the mornings. Those are the symptoms
SUPER GOOD video work and SUPER EXPLICIT articulated. Can't thank you enough. Thank you 😊
I had 5 leaking injectors of 6 in my 02 toen and country 3.3l was flooding. Replaced them ran well for 2 weeks now I get a crank no start as if I have no fuel. I did a toggle test where I key on off 5 times and it will start right away. If I do 4 cranks it will just about start and fail if I do just 3 or 2 or 1 it won't start at all. So leaning on loss of pressure versus totally dead pump. This vid has helped with my land rover. Now I need to figure how to do my van. As I don't know how to pull the regulator out.
This is a real good and very well explained video,thank you for sharing your knowledge.Keep up your good Deed.
best diagnosis video on you tube. thanks for your efforts
It depends if it's a 4 or 6 cylinder.can you expect the same response from a 4 vs a 6 cylinder?
A very great a explanation you really have covered what was bothering me. Thanks
Awesome content brother, thank you for the info and lack of talk about weather and geography!😂
You're awesome, the best explanation on RUclips hands down.
Thank you so much from Morocco.
Thanks for the feedback and support
@@PhillipsVisioncan a clogged fuel filter cause white smoke on start up?
@@johnanderson6255 usually coolant getting in will cause this. Is your vehicle overheating?
@@PhillipsVision not over heating at all runs dam good to be honest wit you
It only does it on the first start up in the morning then clears rite up
Hi there, you have explained it brilliantly, thanks for the info, learnt a lot on my excessive fuel usage.
Thanks, glad it helped👍
Excellent video, keep it up man!
Thanks.
@@mitchellschultz4803 👍
@@PhillipsVisionhard starting too
Dodge has two of those
Great name, Mr. Phillips. I'm J. Phillips. Nice to meet you. Lol. Great channel....
@@almightyironhead25 thanks 👍
Thank you. I know what to check and why now. Makes more sense.
My 1990 f250 351w smells like gas just from cranking the engine. Hard to start. My oil smelled like gas bad and was very runny and over filled from gas being in it. New map, new tps, iac was cleaned and seems to be ok. I’m getting a code 31 with koeo test. Also get a 21,24,and 26 but I believe those are just testing out of range because the engine isn’t up to temp. I’m getting bad flooding obviously. Code 31 is egr sensor is below voltage. I have 5 v at harness coming from ecu. Sensor Olms are good. But that’s not the issue for the flooding I don’t think cause it doesn’t come into play until it’s up to operating temp. If. I put new plugs in it it starts and runs good but then I shut it down and the issue starts all over again. Exhaust is staining the ground like in this video. Also have a new coil. Cap rotor and plugs were new but plugs are fouled again soaked with gas. The little interference capacitor by the coil somehow has a melted harness. I’ve heard that those do more than just keep noise out of the radio. I’ve heard they can cause all kinds of issues. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge so I haven’t tested the regulator. I’m thinking it’s either the regulator or a stuck or leaking injector. When I pull the plugs some are really wet and other are just black. Any ideas are welcome. It’s frustrating me. Oh and my egr tube is broken right where te ribbed part is. Could this be the cause? Idk cause of how the egr system works. Could it be causing hard start and flooding somehow. New o2 sensor also. There is so much gas getting through that when I changed my tps there was gas down in it
Hi. Grateful for your video. So, I drive a BMW X3 2008 edition and it has its fuel pump system inside the tank. I recently tried to replace the fuel pump, but I had to remove the vacuum hose, other plugs etc. within the fuel system, to be able to access and replace the pump. In doing the replacement, I think I may have unplugged and left the vacuum hose sitting inside the fuel tank, which may have allowed some fuel to get in. And because I wasnt conscious at the time I was reassembling, I just plugged the vacuum hose back on the fuel system without trying to get the fuel that may have gotten in out (if it was even possible). My question is, could that cause the fuel regulator to become faulty and if it isnt faulty already, is there a way to get that fuel out of the vacuum hose if it not too late already? The reason is, my car has been having a long crank when starting cold or after it sits for about 20mins since that replacement. Thanks.
First, you need to remove any fuel from the hose, then connect it properly. You may have to replace the regulator, but correct the hose issue first and see if that takes care of it before replacing the regulator
Exactly what u hve said is what experia- on my engine car.
Have a lot of symptoms you described. P0300 code on and off, slow crank no start intermittent runs great when it starts except times it has hesitation a bit when first driving but drives great within 10 minutes or so, checked pressure without truck being able to start just turned key and reading wasn’t where it should have to be and also it dropped slowly when connected. Just changed fuel pump, starter new spark plugs, wires ignition module currently has no codes, but we noticed fuel smell on dipstick. Is that a symptom? It’s a vortec 305, 1998 Chevrolet C1500. Do you think it’s the pressure regulator or maybe something else? Your video was very informative and thank you for that. Just getting frustrated with this crank no start intermittent problem. Appreciate any ideas. Thank you
Could be the regulator. I would start with that since that is an inexpensive part
very good explanation! in my Honda odyssey I had miss fire 2 cylinder , i changed all spark plugs and put new injector cylinder 2&6 checked all coils and all coils are good. There still is miss fire 2 and 6 cylinder but i never checked the fuel pressure.if any one has same problem can you give me some advice? Thank you!
Good.and.calm.yutube.teachers
Hello. Great video! I have a 2015 5.3 silverado. It shutters at 60 to 80 kms. Could it be the fpr? Idles a little rough as well.
Are you getting any engine codes? Could be the camshaft position sensor
@PhillipsVision I had some codes a while back but was erased. Happends when in 4cyl mode. When it shifts back to 8cyl it goes away. My thought is it may e has something to do with the AFM system. Or the valves
I have no fuel pressure tester but a great scanner. Can I get the fuel pressure out each injector on the Snap On Scanner instead ???? I’ve a limp over 80mph. Under load. High speed after 90 mins. Otherwise fine. Sold car. Came back.
As long as your scanner can measure fuel pressure transducers
wonderful explanation, do you know where it the fuel pressure regulator on a nissan titan 5.6l?
it is on the hi pressure fuel pump? hopefully you will see this message...
Thanks for the comment. To access it on the Titan you need to remove the intake manifold and it’s at the end of the fuel rail.
If your fuel pressure reg was going bad or was bad. wouldnt your plugs look bad? my front 3 plugs look just about perfect....lil bit of oil down inside and around the insulator...but the eletrode and insulater look tan..and clean. Im getting a 0172 code and my lite is on and my mpg is suffering.
next video..how to check if using aftermarket fuel regulator
Will the regualator if bad cause the truck not to start
After replacing a fuel pump in a 2004 Chrysler T&C. I now have to turn the key 2-4 times before starting. Is it typical for the fuel pressure regulator to fail after a fuel pump replacement? The fuel pump was original and had cracks. I did not have an issue starting it prior to the fuel pump replacement.
Thank you. Teacher. That you are.
On electronic throttle body it can't be forced open a technician said
I’m smelling fuel/exhaust coming through my vents in my car when the AC is on. Is that another sign of the fuel pressure regulator? We drive a 2019 Dodge Grand Caravan.
@@spencerharrison6029 you may have a leak or running rich. These can cause the fuel smell
Thank you! Nice learning!🙏👍
Hey nicely done video! I have a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 3.3L. There is a small 1/8 ID vacuum hose on rear of intake plenum that leads to fuel pressure regulator. It was disconnected for a long time unnoticed because it's hidden. I wasn't having any issue with it disconnected, and when it was reconnected it made no difference either. Do some vehicles just not utilize or notice a difference? No misfire codes or anything except EGR solenoid, which came back after I erased codes and with vacuum line attached, so nothing there. Thanks!
Hello, my Toyota Auris 1.6 2008 has fuel pressure problem, because I think after other repairs my conclusion was no fuel pressure, the car has a hard start and once it’s starts it runs good unless leaving off few hours, then comes the hard start again. Do you have any idea. May fuel pressure regulator? The fuel pump works perfect.
Have you checked your fuel pressure to see if it’s to spec?
I had to replace my fuel pump sender unit luckily there was an access panel under the rear seats to get into the fuel tank and it’s an all in one unit so regulator also got changed
Thank you!
Excellent video! You explain that so well! I have been having a problem with this fuel pressure regulator in my 2016 Kia Soul 1.6l I'm getting conflicting information I'm searching all over the internet on where this part is located some say it's in the fuel pump and some say it's off the fuel rail on the driver side. Without taking anything apart I'm trying to look and see if I can see it in the engine and I can't see it. I'm wondering if it's behind the intake. Would you happen to have any ideas where this is located on my kia soul? RENMAN
If you Google year make model as in looking for parts when you find the part sometimes it will show diagrams.. that's how I found mine lol its a lot smaller then I thought it was because of pictures I had seen 😊
Hope that made sense and helps
Hi can this cause a car to stall when driving and also longer crank starts?Ive checked fuel pump and it's working great and I also have really low fuel pressure from the in tank fuel pump.
If your pressure regulator is in the tank, yes. Some are outside and even near the fuel rail. Could also be your injectors or clogged filter l.
THANK YOU
Hello,
l have an 08 Lexus IS250. The car has a rough cold start, sometimes it doesn’t even fully turn on anymore. A couple of weeks ago, shooting some starter fluid in the intake will get it to start, but now it doesn’t. When cranking, it has 0 FRP(psi). As of right now, the car does not start. Does this mean the fuel pump is bad, or is it the regulator?
Looking forward to your response!
Could be the fuel pump if the pressure is bad. You can start with the regulator since it’s cheaper and see what happens. If you are able to check you pressure at the pump do that since that will pinpoint if the pump is the issue. Also test the pump relay, if that’s bad your pump won’t work.
@@PhillipsVision Thanks for the reply!
Some things I forgot to mention; before the rough
start, my car died randomly while driving out my
parking spot. The following day is when I noticed the
hard start, and the stalling. Went to check for codes,
and it had a pending code that had something to do
with the MAF sensor. So I replaced it. And still had a
rough start/no start. Had another mechanic check it
out; he claimed it was the fuel injection cold start
valve. We replaced that as well, and the same issue
happened. Now mechanic states
" We should verify
it's
1: spraying
2: got pressure
3:getting electrical signal.
I did those tests with the old one, so I should've
repeated them. Let's plan another trip and keep
playing with it in the meantime. It's possible the
check valve in the low pressure pump is leaking, or
maybe not running at all, hence checking for
pressure at cold start injector.
@@xkiel_ wouldn’t hurt to check your air filter and throttle body. Make sure your filter is clean and throttle body doesn’t have any carbon build up
@@PhillipsVision Air filter, and throttle body was both good. No build up on the throttle. I sprayed some starter fluid today and it ran again for about 30 min. Then suddenly, it stalled. Tried turning it on, it turned on maybe twice, but had no power to accelerate. Then, it didnt turn on anymore. Bad fuel pump? or an electrical issue?
@@xkiel_ sounds like the fuel pump
With the key on engine off, I have a presure of 45. When I turn the engine on, it goes up to 70 psi.
That might be normal for your vehicle. What is the make, year and model ?
@@PhillipsVision 2010 Chevy Colbalt LT 2.2 L. Thanks
@@JCGible Pressure should be between 50-60psi at idle
Thank you. 🙂
Very informative video , thankj u. i have a 98 toyota avalon 3.0 v6 and my pressure should be within range of 44-50 psi. i just checked the pressure and its at 52-54 psi. would that be an indication of a bad fuel pressure regulator ? it just popped up a code with a p0303 misfire on cylinder 3 .
Yes, a high fuel pressure can be due to a bad regulator. High pressure can cause a misfire, but could also be bad spark plugs and/or spark plug cables.
Hi I am from Trinidad my Mazda protege 2001when engine is cool works good when hot loosening power need some help
Having bought a code scanner recently, I frequently monitored status. I was code-free until recently, after I over-filled my gas tank (meaning I depressed the pump lever beyond the auto-shutoff point).
Will the code disappear as I use the gas in the over-filled tank?
What code are you getting? You may have damaged your Evap Emissions Control System
@@PhillipsVision Thanks for asking. The code is P0401, which is EGR-related. "Insufficient exhaust gas recirculation "A" Flow Detected". I had just replaced the EGR with a new unit, so the EGR code surprised me. Yet, as someone else explained, the EGR solenoid/valve is only part of the tubing, and the rest probably contains heavy carbon soot build-up. So, I face the deeper project of using an old speedometer cable, attached to a drill driver, to wipe the inside of the EGR tubing upstream of the EGR, itself. Then, clearing codes, and rescanning after a day or two of driving. As a "veteran" DIY, I am constantly learning.
@@bobgreene2892 also check your EGR tube for breaks and cracks. Just helped a friend who had the code and what I found was a rusted hole on the backside of the EGR tube
GREAT VIDEO !!!
Thx 👍
Good video, thanks!
I was told that if the regulator goes bad and gets stuck that fuel will not enter the fuel rail my issue was van shut off I sprayed starting fluid into intake and engine wanted to almost start so normally I'd think the fuel pump went bad so I replaced fuel pump fuel filter fuel relay and fuse still no start so I pressed valve on fuel rail which is just passed the fuel regulator normally fuel shoots out in my case it did not so I took off fuel pressure regulator and there's gas coming out the fuel line and out the regulator so I was told the regulator is stuck closed and won't allow fuel in fuel rail
Hi, I replaced my fuel pressure regulator even though I wasn't having any problems with it. After I replaced the fuel pressure regulator I began to hear that loud whining noise coming from the fuel pump. Could a new fuel pressure regulator put stress on an old fuel pump? Before I installed the pressure regulator the fuel pump made a low humming sound. The car drove fine, only the pump was loud, Thanks.
It shouldn’t effect it. Your pump may have been failing and just coincidental that it happened when you changed the regulator
Replaced my o2 censors 3 of 4 still black smoke so am geussing its the fuel regulator.what do you think?
Could be a lot of things causing that. Are you getting any engine codes?
@@PhillipsVision yup drive trian code same thing bank 2 all it says was bank 1 but after I changed 3 of the 4 censors says bank 2 now,also changed filter and the map sensor.po155 code
@@nickreese8039 Black smoke usually indicates a rich condition. Could be the regulator or injectors.
@PhillipsVision yes it is rich to much fuel to the engine that was my guess is well thanks
@@nickreese8039 Could have a stuck open injector as well
Fuel smell in the cabin (Have had it for a year and a half and didnt kmow) and fuel in your oil making it black sludge, I'm also replacing the oil pressure sensor too because of this. Hoping its not the oil or gas pump.
Do you have video that shows steps without Schrader valve access on fuel rail. If so link please... edit .... found episode of yours that list other videos with info without Schrader valve 😊😊
I have a video showing how to check fuel pressure without a schrader valve, here’s the link: ruclips.net/video/p1CgodbwLe0/видео.htmlsi=PSbq7a6yfqBRrdMN
At 1:45 you said the fuel will get into your system, bypassing the injectors. Do you mean if the regulator's diaphragm is ruptured, the engine vacuum can suck it into the inlet manifold ? If not, how can fuel get into the combustion chamber, if not through the injectors ?
Do you Know where the fuel pressure regulator is on my 2014 Ford Mustang v6 3.7? Thank you.
Hey man whts up. I have a question. My car takes forever to speed up and the rpms go up before the speed does. Like the cars revving but im not pressing it hard for it to rev that loud at a low speed like 20. It eventually does speed up but takes long than it should. Car has a rough idle and shakes at cold start up mostly. Lastly the fuel economy is terrible. Ive had to change a ruined cat, o2 sensor, and fuel pump but still nothing. Runs exactly the same. Please help really struggling ti figrure this out 🙏
Are you getting any engine codes? Could be the throttle body, throttle position sensor or Idle Air Control Valve among others. The engine codes will help pinpoint it
might wanna look at transmission. torque converter in particular maybe. Hows your trans fluid look? should be red and clear. No metal sparkles or black sooty particles (clutch material). does trans fluid smell burnt? torque converter could be toast
Good video
I noticed this video. My fuel pum runs about every 30 seconds would that or could that be pressure regulater
1998 Ford expedition
When you say “runs”, are you talking about hearing it prime?
Very useful content. Subbed
Thank you so much for the support 👍
Salute to this video 💯🖖🏾👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you for your help
I have a 99 buick regal ls model it just started having hard start and if i step on gas hard it bucks jerks and if i do not let up on gas it will stall i hear my fuel pump come on when i turn key but is not as loud would that be pump or regulator? It doesnt have any codes thanks for any info
Hi. I have random misfire. I got code p0300 and code about evap. I replaced new fuel injectors I checked the fuel pressure like you . On the gage reads zero pressure. My car doesn't die but it doesn't give me good acceleration. Engine light is on. What could be? Fuel pressure regulator or my fuel pump is dying? My engine is 5.3 vortec. Please let me know. Thank you in advance
If your 5.3l is like mine, you should have a schrader valve underneath near the fuel filter (driver side). Get a reading of the pressure there. If that’s good it could be the pressure regulator, if it’s bad then it’s the fuel pump.
@PhillipsVision thank you I will going to find this valve and check it. Thank you for your response
@PhillipsVision hi man. I didn't find a valve closer to the fuel filter. But the day I checked the pressure and it was zero, I before that I replaced all 8 fuel injectors. So after couple day when I recheck the pressure from the rails it was almost 50. When I turned the car off after 10 20 minutes it gained closer 52. So I learned that the pressure built up over time when you replaced fuel injectors or something opening the fuel line. Amazing the fuel pump works. Thank you a lot for advice. You are cool
Would a bad fuel regulator cause the engine to splutter then stall after starting. It happens intermittently. Usually it starts fine the second time i start it. No noticeable loss of power under acceleration. No black smoke. Any ideas? Thank u
It could, but there are also other things that can cause that. Are you getting any engine codes?
@@PhillipsVision no codes. It does smell a bit rich on start up but fuel trims are good. Sometimes it'll start but sounds like its running on 2 cylinders for about 2 seconds then dies. No misfires on scan tool either
I’m fighting a PO300 code replaced injectors,plugs wires,coils it’s a Ls swap in 89 c1500 I’m using a 255lph pump,corvette regulator,6an lines and new sending unit. I have 58 psi when it primes and at idle it has 70. Would that be causing my PO300
It could. The P0300 is a random misfire code which could be caused by various things.
@@PhillipsVision I did your test,I started the truck,then shut it off,watched the pressure gauge and it slowly lost pressure.
@@pjl1919 Could also be a bad check valve valve in the fuel sending unit.
@@PhillipsVision maybe but it is brand new so I hope that’s not the issues
Hi. My 2011 GMC slows down when I drive (the speed decreases on its own). I have to pump the gas to start my vehicle every time I put gas in it. Please tell me what’s wrong with my vehicle? My mechanic is trying to charge me $1,300 but everyone is saying that he’s taking advantage of me.
Could be your fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge and get a reading from the schrader valve on the fuel rail. If it’s below the required pressure, you need to replace the fuel pump assembly. If you do it yourself it can be done for around $150
@@PhillipsVision $150? OMG! That’s a lot cheaper than $1,300! I guess I’m off to RUclips to see how to replace my fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Thank you!
@@proverbsjohnson7594 it may be similar to my GM 5.3L V8. Here’s the video I did showing how…pretty easy
ruclips.net/video/DR2PNDeyvc8/видео.html
Is the regulator and the sensor the samething
No, they are different
I have a 1995 GMC G2500 Vandura 5.7. Im trying to narrow down what my issue is. The car runs great during idle but if I give it some gas it bogs down and acts like it wants to stall. I cant tell if it could be the injectors, Fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter because the Fuel pump is new.
Have you checked the fuel pressure with a gauge? The pump might be new be could be faulty
Gound to the frame
Also my dad has a 2006 tundra. Somtimes it long cranks and wont start.
Check the fuel pressure, could be the pump as well
@@PhillipsVision is there a valve to check it? I have a tester
@@paulbellefeuille2289 There should be a valve on the fuel rail called a schrader valve, connect the gauge there. Here’s a video where I show how to do it:
ruclips.net/video/rAJOSQcmnqA/видео.html
First of all thank you for great videos.
I have a problem and i need your help. I changed fuel pump and fuel filter on my NB. When i put ignition i don't hear the pump priming at all and i try to start the car and the engine crank not starting and then suddenly like explosion and I'm getting leak from fuel filter area. Do you think it can be clugged injectors? Or bad fuel pressure regulator?
If you’re not hearing it prime and you have a new fuel pump, it’s most likely the fuel pump relay switch.
Leaking from from the filter may be a bad connection. Did you make your the retainer clips were locking properly
@@PhillipsVision I have already changed it with a new one. I hear the fuel pump relay switch when i turn ignition on. I just don't have any idea after cranking engine not starting when starting leak from fuel filter cable
@@mertgayretlii where is it leaking on the filter, from the connections or the canister? Also, the fuel pump wiring could be damaged. You may have to test the wires to find the issue.
@@PhillipsVision The fuel filter pipe connection with wiring. I have leak right there when i look the cable or wiring i dont know how to call it does not seem any damage. How i can test the wiring?
hey man! i have a g35 that recently backfired on me while cruising in 3rd around 3200 rpm. i put it in nuetral and slightly pressed the gas again and the car stalled and stopped starting reliably. it has since started up twice no problem and sound great but suddenly dies after about 10 seconds to a minute. smells very badly of gas when it does run. wondering if a faulty damper or regulator could cause this?
It could be a couple issues. Are you getting any engine codes?
nope no codes been dealing with it for a few days no luck
@@zikeyy777 a lean or rich system can cause your issue, but both should generate codes. Have you tested you fuel pressure ?
Can the regulator cause my fuel pump fuse to constantly blow?
No, something in the wiring is causing it to blow
@@PhillipsVision thanks so much
GM 03 to early 07 trucks have it in gas tank.
Does a 2016 Tahoe have a regulator? It doesn’t look like any of the videos I have watched
What about if my truck kinda revs up and down as if it had a dirty carb? It is electronic fule injection
Could be your Idle Air Control valve or Throttle Body as well. Also had similar issues with bad MAP sensors
@@PhillipsVision thanks im 14 and bought my truck the guy told me all it needed was a fuel pump relay well he was very wrong. i had to fix everything fuel related from the tank to the motor and and the whole motor, its a treat,🤣🤣
Help! 2019 Hyundai sonata code 0090 for the fuel pressure regulator but I don’t know where it’s located
Is there posibility motor shaking, vibrating because of bad fuel pump regulator?
Maybe a mild rough idle if the pressure is weak and affecting the air/fuel ratio. If you have a bad shake going on, it could be your motor mounts
@@PhillipsVision thank you
@@PhillipsVision one more question throttle body actuator senzor, or throttle body cuold cause vibration or shaking of engine? Thx dude
@@xbrutal3953 not sure about those causing it. Usually if it’s the throttle body, the RPMs will also drop. Are you getting any check engine lights?
@@PhillipsVision yep both at same time check engine and yellow triangle
I have code p2101 cleaned out the throttle body and now am leaning I changing the fuel pump I still have the reduced power engine light on
What should I do my fuel pump isn’t sound good too i am going to test the fuel pressure today as well if it doesn’t start then do I change the fuel regulator
what if I added stp fuel injector cleaner do u just let the fuel ride out
Great information!!!
Philips, thank you so much for your display, I have my vehicle Toyota Hilux Kun 25 with crank no start, no fuel coming out from fuel filter and I suspect fuel regulator from tank or injector pump so please can you assist my with thoughts, thank you.
Have you checked your fuel pressure? It could also be your fuel pump.
Thank you so much for your information
Hi there did you find the probleme
Will a fuel pressure regulator cause a P0304 code? I have spark, swapped coil and spark plug but no luck.
The P0304 code pertains to the 4th cylinder misfire. A bad fuel pressure regulator can cause a misfire, but usually a P0300 - random misfire. It could be your 4th cylinder fuel injector. If you vehicle has coil packs, ignition cables and plugs. It could be the cable at cylinder 4 as well.
👍👍👍👍keep it up
I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter engine. When the temperature outside is over 85°F then my engine acts as though it is vapor locking. I know that isn't a thing on new vehicles but we changed the fuel pump and it is still happening. Any ideas as to what could be causing it? My local mechanic has no idea.
Have you tested the fuel pressure after replacing the pump to make sure it is at the right psi? If that’s fine, it could also be the pressure regulator
@@PhillipsVision we had a mechanic replace the fuel pump and he tested it and it was working fine when he replaced it.
@@miriamremington0851 it could be your pressure regulator then
What if the regulator is integrated into high pressure fuel pump in a GDI system? My issue is that the fuel rail pressure sensor shows that the high pressure keeps increasing, so over-pressurizing. the regulator is called Fuel volume control valve. VCV. I replaced the whole high pressure fuel pump and issue persists :(
@@Napstergucio124 Did you replace it with an aftermarket pump or OEM?
@@PhillipsVision OEM. It's a bit strange in open loop the VCV sems to work or when I rev but in closed loop vcv stays open all the time and pressure increase to even 3750 psi
@@Napstergucio124 could be faulty
I've been having issues with fule pumps constantly failing. After about 50 miles driving, truck wants to die out and backfires. If I pull the vacuum line to the FPR it starts to idle and it should. I've gone through 4 furl pumps already and seem to keep happening. I question the vacuum line
I've got a very slight misfire but no engine check light or obd2 codes. Replaced my diesel filter but no luck. Should the diesel fuel pressure be the same pressure at all times or does it fluctuate at times?
You should have a specific fuel pressure range for your vehicle. If you are below the minimum you need to replace the pump
@@PhillipsVision thank you
Cam sensor
Look like a young Joe Rogan
Would the pressure regulator have anything to do with how long the fuel pump primes? Mine stays on for about two seconds and usually it won’t start after a few cranks on my 00 Sierra 1500
It would not. On average they prime about 2 seconds. You may have problems with the filter or Injectors. I would check the pressure at the rail, if the pressure is good then it’s most likely your Injectors
@@PhillipsVision I’ve changed out the fuel pump and the fuel filter! I wouldn’t have noticed anything but my sons pick up which is an 02 1500 hd he just turns the key and bam it’s on
When you turn key it should come on for about 5 seconds to prime and that's it the fuel pressure regulator only allows the correct pressure into the fuel lines and has nothing to do with pump priming
@@cheeseburgers82 thanks Travis for the reply. The pick up doesn’t start after a few turns, my son has a 02 Chevy 1500Hd and he just even looks at the ignition and it starts right away! Just trying to get mine to start right away!
Symptoms of both pump regulator are very similar
Couldn’t the fuel pump check valve also cause a drop in pressure?
Yes
Just had a fuel pump out in my 07 ram 1500 been fine for 2 months. All a sudden I am having a long crank time here an there not all the time tho..any ideas?
Have you tested the fuel pressure?
@@PhillipsVision I have not. Just paid them 400 to install a new fuel pump would think it should be fine but that is what it reminded me of is when the pump went out. Going to swing by there 2maro an say something to them. Thanks 🙏
What does it means when my obd2 says fuel pressure regulator performance 1
Can a bad fuel regulator cause a misfire just on startup, and it goes away in about 30 seconds? It is a really bad misfire, i have replaced the fuel pump and filter already. I also have been having rich codes. Thanks.
Yes, because if Pressure is off it can cause random misfire
Yes having rich fuel codes is normally the regulator
I keep getting PO171 changed MAF and 3 02 sensors I got code 300/301/302/303/304 is this a sign of regulator. When I turn on the car RPM goes to 2 then 1 up and down while it’s warming up thanks
Beutiful lambo
I have a 2007 VW Passat 2.0T - FSI engine & the car has 2 fuel pumps , It has the Low Pressure fuel pump in the gas tank & There is a High Pressure fuel pump up at the engine , The problem I'm having is when I hook up the fuel pressure gauge & Start up at the engine for the Low pressure fuel pump the gauge will go crazy , The PSI will stay around 60 to 80 PSI but the pressure gauge needle jumps back and forth very rapidly where I can't almost see it / The needle moves so fast between 60 & 80 PSI , Anyone ever seen anything like that before ? And what could be cause it ?
Will a bad fuel pressure regulator cause a p0173 “Fuel Trim Malfunction “ ???
It can...yes
@@PhillipsVision thank you
@@GOLDENSTATE420 you’re welcome
my pontiac dont have that valve. i have a equis vacume gz and fuel pressure tester.
Thanks my car won't start at all .the obd code say P0001 fuel pressure regulator circuit open