For me, a 240+whp K24 that's almost straight oem with just a 50 degree VTC, a well designed exhaust manifold, a long 3-inch cold air intake and a very good tune would be cost effective and more than enough if placed in an EF or gutted EG. 🍻
I have examples of new m2 puting out 470whp on dynojets, where on maha and bapro here in eu it is puting out 460chp aka the (+-) factory rating. Those dynojets are most fucked with dynos out there. Thereare some well calibrated ones like tuning by nick is using but alot are set to read higher whp than actual chp. I only take into consideration dyno places that have tested stock cars with no mods first. Like at place where Im at there are 5 cl9 with output of 187-192hp. So I know they dont fuck with numbers.
Cant wait to see what your cl gonna do there 👍. This expert engine builder " lighter crankshaft" ... That is a big no go. They just finding ways to remove as much money from people as possible in the process.
@@CL9k24a3 Yep... most upsells totally unnecessary. Lots of expensive intake and exhaust parts with small diameter too. Currently have a 4Piston TSX head, 4Piston RR3 cams. Just saving to buy the rest of the head build. Also have modified the same Hybrid Racing 3.5" intake from the FN2 in the video, it is quite easy to put on a CL!
@@CL9k24a3 ExhaustWorx Race, would've gone with something with a better design but I couldn't find any others with large bores on both primary and collector. Paired with 4Piston ported Skunk2 Ultra on the intake side.
You don't need more than 48.3mm on primes. For you setup Joe's design with longer primes is what gonna work. Was looking at worx on fb group 2 days ago and they dont even use equal tubing on secondary
Point is don't let ''expert tuner'' tuners tune your car and ''expert engine builder'' builders put parts for you.
For me, a 240+whp K24 that's almost straight oem with just a 50 degree VTC, a well designed exhaust manifold, a long 3-inch cold air intake and a very good tune would be cost effective and more than enough if placed in an EF or gutted EG. 🍻
Not gonna happen with those parts
@@CL9k24a3 It's been done here in Asia, the set up is pretty much repeatable. The runs are all on a Dynojet
I have examples of new m2 puting out 470whp on dynojets, where on maha and bapro here in eu it is puting out 460chp aka the (+-) factory rating.
Those dynojets are most fucked with dynos out there. Thereare some well calibrated ones like tuning by nick is using but alot are set to read higher whp than actual chp.
I only take into consideration dyno places that have tested stock cars with no mods first. Like at place where Im at there are 5 cl9 with output of 187-192hp.
So I know they dont fuck with numbers.
That's a 180whp build.
@@roskataqv K24A stock without a 50 degree VTC gear can do 200whp with just tuning.
Paul (TPW) is a great guy. 👌He'll be tuning the K24 i'm building for my CL7. Shame people keep recommending bad (expensive) parts!
Cant wait to see what your cl gonna do there 👍.
This expert engine builder " lighter crankshaft" ... That is a big no go.
They just finding ways to remove as much money from people as possible in the process.
@@CL9k24a3 Yep... most upsells totally unnecessary. Lots of expensive intake and exhaust parts with small diameter too. Currently have a 4Piston TSX head, 4Piston RR3 cams. Just saving to buy the rest of the head build. Also have modified the same Hybrid Racing 3.5" intake from the FN2 in the video, it is quite easy to put on a CL!
That gonna be strong build. What header are you using?
@@CL9k24a3 ExhaustWorx Race, would've gone with something with a better design but I couldn't find any others with large bores on both primary and collector. Paired with 4Piston ported Skunk2 Ultra on the intake side.
You don't need more than 48.3mm on primes.
For you setup Joe's design with longer primes is what gonna work.
Was looking at worx on fb group 2 days ago and they dont even use equal tubing on secondary