I have had my quickjack for several years and I have some much helpful safety advice to share that quickjack should of disclosed with the operating instructions for safe use. First off, the jack position needs to be several inches more to the front of the vehicle than the rear because all vehicles are heavier in front, this will give a safer balanced load bearing on the jacks. Second, the thinner blocks in front and the thicker blocks in rear of vehicle will help offset uneven lift as vehicle leaves the floor because almost all vehicles are slightly higher in rear than front. Third, put the vehicle in neutral with emergency brake off, its important for the tires to be able to freewheel. This jack lifts horizontally/vertical or back and forth as it lifts and descends. This will help with tire squeal and possible unsafe jack preload from tires fighting the jack position, also makes for a smoother and safer lift off and landing.
This is tremendous advice. I have a corvette so the trans is in the rear so the weight dist shouldn’t be a massive issue. The thicker blocks in the back makes perfect sense! This should be in the manual!
@@SHODUUP I think for this situation depends which car you have and normally you have to be sure by your self which type of rubber blocks you have to use. The same nearly with a 2 post lift where you have your 4 arms and have to look before for each one that you have enough space to your lifting points without damaging the body of the car. With the tipping over you have to know where is the center of gravity of your car that's all. If you do not know where, you can lift it up a little bit like in the video to see where your car is going then readjust.
For future visitors of this video on the fence about getting Quickjacks (or probably similar products as well) just know that all the issues shown in this video can be prevented by a solid 30 minute sit down with the manual before commencing the assembly. This includes reading the FAQ, troubleshooting sections, and those little *WARNING* and *NOTICE* subtexts that are scattered all thru the assembly instructions. Glad you and your car are safe.
Part of why I did the video. A lot of people have trouble and go through the same tribulations. Unfortunately most people don’t read the manual from word one to word end and watch the videos so I took on the chin so others who watch don’t have to
Right? I only skimmed the manual and saw both the section where it says to wait 24hrs for the thread sealer to set. As soon as his car started to lift unevenly I thought he had them backwards. RTFM!
I just received my 7000TLX 3 weeks ago. Had some of the same problems you had but I watched so many setup videos and knew to let the sealant dry for 24 hours. I waited 72 hours and no leaks. One of my short cables was also slightly kinked at the connector too. The trick is to call the Bend Pack number, not the Quick Jack. No one ever answers it. I think they have a problem with their phone system and they don't even know it. I sent them some pictures and they replaced the defective hoses, connectors and right frame in about a week. My Quick Jack is working perfectly now and I'm loving it. I don't know why they just don't install the quick connectors on the end of the hoses at the factory. It would save a lot of frustration for the customer and stop customers for giving them bad feedback.
I totally agree! There phone system is terrible. I actually ended up calling the phone number and when it was dial by name I put in Chris and said yes to the first one that popped up and he was an IT specialist so he handed me off to the right person and they’ve been helping me fix the little issues since then which is great
It's I would say more and more every where if you have a problem, you have a problem. Try to call the service you stuck the most time with the automatic voice, waiting, waiting... push button one for this, button 2 for those but the end you get nobody on the phone who helps you :-/.
@Ernie A i tried on my oldtimer to seal the treat with loctite glue on a oil pressure sensor. Like you waiting more as 24h but system leaks and there is not so high pressure like the quickjack. I tried the teflon tape it fails but the end I am using an stupid o-ring and it works. But for these connectors I would seal it with the teflon tape, too. There is to know you can only tighten the parts but not loosen again then you got a leak because the teflon loose the sealent.
Just took delivery of my 5000TL and was reviewing assembly videos when I came across yours. These newer generation Quickjacks seem higher maintenance but I agree there are a few things Quickjack could have done to make it easier on the consumer in terms of accurate documentation. Your tips / lessons learned helped me a bunch especially with the essentially unidirectional nature of the Quickjacks depending upon front engine vs. rear engine weight bias to prevent tipovers. The thread sealant curing time of 24 hours is another key point along with the air bleeding needed. Thank you!
For Reference: 1) QuickJack video from 2021 about using liquid sealant (and how to do it properly): ruclips.net/video/q8798Dca0AU/видео.html 2) QuickJack video from 2017 saying to never raise the QJ to full height without weight on it: ruclips.net/video/IkJWk48NPx0/видео.html 3) Customer video that explains that one needs to pay attention to the orientation of the QJ with respect to the weight of the vehicle: ruclips.net/video/JqkEnIucPEA/видео.html These are good videos to watch for new QJ owners. And QuickJack has a nice library of videos on RUclips that are all worth watching.
Agree there are some videos out there but as a new consumer we shouldn't have to search for videos online when we set up a product. Luckily they are out there to help inform and guide before setting up. I watched a ton before i set mine up but still had a ton of issue. The tech support even said not all manuals are correct on the sealent and they are trying to fix that.
the reason this vid is great is that you dane to show the problems others will not. True with most DIY vids - through the magic of editing they skip the tough parts any project...and that's exactly the part you want to see resolved. I'm waiting on my QuickJack to arrive, and I'm really glad I came across this vid. I was kinda screaming at the vid for you to flip the orientation. I've noticed that with on other vids with front engine rear drive cars. Much appreciated!
Thank you very much and glad it helped. In my opinion DIY should always show the good, the bad, and the ugly. We are not all perfect and it takes a little to get things right.
I just got mine 5000TL two days ago, in fact just posted my video today. I didn’t go into some of the detail you did but it seems like you may have skimmed through the instruction manual. It covers the 24hr setting time for the thread sealer and also covers proper orientation of the jacks, more than a few times. I mean this with all due respect and I’m not trolling at all but I just want your viewers to know that this product is actually very nice. I’m thoroughly impressed by mine. I’m glad you finally got it working! Also, I love that car!
Thanks! No skimming of the manual. Some of the manuals don’t have it listed. When I spoke to the tech she said they are trying to fix that issue as they are getting quite a few calls. The orientation part was definitely on me but wasn’t really the main part of the issue. Thanks I love the car too haha
When you position your jack under the car you should place it slightly more forward (for front engine cars) to compensate for the weight of the engine. Also, what I did once I found the best position for my car was paint small dots on the frame so that I will jack in the same place next time.
Your video saved me a ton of time. I started off by using teflon tape and everything worked out much better. They did update the manual to say wait 24 ours for the liquid sealer by the way.
I set mine up over the weekend and went smoothly. I opted for heavy duty thread tape (Gray Oatey) vs the sealant and I have no leaks at any location even after several lifts but will keep an eye on it over time. The paper manual that came with the unit did state to wait 24 hours to allow proper curing of the thread sealant. I also had the uneven lifting and oddities after full bleeding; however, I noticed the same problem as you, I needed to change orientation for lifting properly. Left lift = Left side of car; Right lift = Right side of car (front engine) having the cylinders pointing towards the engine, and once I did that no issues seen. Knew there was a reason they labeled them as such on the box lol, I was just too eager to use them and figured I would sort it out later. Glad you sorted it out, albeit at great dismay.
Haha thanks. There is always the learning curve. I’m glad I ended up using thread tape in the the end. They used to only do that route and I wonder if the gel is a cheaper alternative.
@@BROCKgoFAST A video from QJ states the reason they did is because of the possibility people were using thread tape wrong and were getting some in the openings causing tape to get sucked into the system and causing problems. I never even opened the bottle as I have used the Oatey product for other uses like this and know to only put it on the threads and never on the opening lol. I did get the strange alignment on the short hoses off the elbow fittings but not to the extreme you saw on your right lift. It exaggerates the tighter the nut on the elbow fitting. When snugged, I don't see the misalignment nor leaking. It suggests 23-25 ft/lb torque on those, but I don't have the proper torque wrench fitting for those, so I just snugged it up and watched for leaks.
@@ToddMcMullen same here. Didn’t go too tight and the weird alignment scares me a little but it doesn’t leak and worked properly so I should be good. Maybe I’ll send Tina a picture of it
This would be ok for someone not in a hurry, they are way too finicky and slow for tire changers and brake mechanics like me. I went to airbag jacks for speed and less weight. This would be fine for longer repairs and getting underneath which Imdont do a lot of. Great video
Thanks! That’s exactly right. I only use it honestly when I need to get under the car for long installs. It’s too much of a pain to set up for quick stuff
I just set up up my 5000TL yesterday and only had a couple of minor issues which did not require any calls to BendPak. Had to chase the 1/4” npt female threads on two of the female couplers, used Teflon tape (being extra careful not to apply any tape to the first two threads of the male threaded fitting), no more leaks. Very pleased overall and the QuickJacks are an absolute joy to use, especially with the increased lift of the new 5000TL series.
Nothing wrong with the plastic hydraulic tank, all it does is hold the hydraulic fluid it is not under any pressure. The only thing you need to make sure of is the vent is open or you will suck in the tank as you raise the jacks and that could lead to the tank cracking. Most of the issues you show in this video were self inflected and not the fault of Quick Jack.
You are correct. Only thing is I’m not the o lay one. The things that quickjack was at fault is having customers not do nylon and a couple line connections were bad. They made it right though so that’s huge
I got my SLX-5000 in November. Had similar problems. One side would take 2-3 minutes to lower while the other side took 10-12 seconds. Had similar problems getting someone to actually help me. Finally got out thru to Tina and she got me squared away. In a matter of 2-3 days I had a new pumping unit and was up and running!! Great product when it’s working, but then need to get some folks better trained in the customer support department. Except Tina, she needs a promotion.
I agree! Great product when it’s up and running but really shouldn’t be that hard to set up. Tina was the best and the only reason I got it working correctly!
I really appreciate this video, and you taking the time to document this process and ordeal. I've been considering getting one, in the hopes that it would make routine maintenance of the family's fleet(5 cars) simpler. After watching this video(and others) and reading through all the comments, I have decided it wasn't worth it for my needs. I think buying 3 more hydraulic floor jacks would better suit my needs.
No problem at all. If you are going to work on a project car and will be using it a lot, it’s totally worth it. If using it for maintenance for the fleet it can definitely be more time consuming than just using floor jacks. I’ve actually thought about selling mine a couple times as I’ve only used it 2 times in a year
I have the 7000TL and really had no issues at all with it except one quick connect fitting on one long hose does have a minor fluid drip. Not worth the bother of resealing the joint. One more thing.......I always place my jacks with the hosers facing the rear. Never tried them facing the front. And QuickJack always recommends the use of additional safety stands (in their owners manual). I know many people don't use them but I work fire/rescue and I can tell you first hand that I always use safety stands and I'd never get under a vehicle without them. Enjoy your QuickJack system.
Hi bud, glad you were able to get your rig going! I went with teflon tape so I wouldn't have to deal with waiting for the sealant to cure. Also, looks like you initially had the frames backwards; if you look at the boxes, it actually labels them "L" and "R." Two rules of thumb to check for before lifting: the locking bars are supposed to be on the "outside" (so you can set the cams to descend without reaching underneath), and the "Quickjack" label is supposed to be readable from the front. For me, to fool-proof my setup, I labeled each frame "Left" and "Right" with a P-Touch labeler. You'd think Bendpak/Quickjack would do that themselves, maybe even etching "L" and "R" into the frames from the get-go hahaha.
I have a 2nd generation Firebird that I use Quickjack with, and to be honest I had this same problem. Only one place I could put the contact points due to unibody. With my rubber blocks at the extreme ends of the unit, in order to reach the two subframe rails. I ended up reversing the jacks (exchanging left and right, and orienting both 180 degrees from where you have yours (so the car will lift up and forward instead of up and backward). In other words the two hoses coming from the jacks will be under the back of your car instead of the front. I find that gives me less things to maneuver around when working under the car. The most important thing is turning your jacks around moves the base of the jacks closer to your car's center of gravity.
Quickjack really needs to add an additional version to the lineup that has the hoses assembled and filled/bled, as well as the lift cylinders. All that would need done is add the "included" ATF into the reservoir and bleed the pump. Something similar to the mini split AC systems that are sold with the lines pre-filled with refrigerant .. for the DIYer. I've had my QuickJack for several years and only recently noticed a small drip from one of the connectors. A quick tightening and it's back in business. When it comes to hydraulics where the fluid is supporting a vehicle, you don't want ANY problems with hoses/connectors. ATF under very high pressure can find a way out if the operator is not careful.
I've had a 5000SLX for about 4 years and have only had one problem in that time when it failed to lift from being fully up with a car on it due to low ATF in the reservoir. when using these you need to be aware of where the weight is in your car - if it's at the front, as in your car, the jack needs to be positioned so it is pushing up with the base frame extended underneath the heaviest point as much as possible. where you had it positioned at the start the base of the quick jack is halfway up your door and extending back towards the rear wheel away from where all your weight is. I've written on mine with white marker pen with "Outside" and an arrow pointing to "Front". Once you have your vehicle up on the stands and locked in place ALWAYS use jack stands (I use four - two on each side) underneath the quick jack as an extra safety precaution. don't rely on the lock bars. I have never heard of them failing but you don't want to be the first to experience it because of equipment failure or they weren't locked in place properly due to user error. at best you're going to wreck your car, worst case you're going to injure or kill yourself. glad you got it sorted.
Newer viewers - just read the manual. He didn’t have the newer version. I bought the same 5000TL in October 2023. The hydraulic fluid tank is metal and comes with thread sealer. If you use the sealer, let it set for 24 hours and be liberal with the application and don’t seal first 2 threads. I had no leaks and zero issues when assembling mine. Also check the shipped PSI of the air cylinders. Mine were at 50 and 60 psi, so I just bled them for a second to bring the both to 45psi. They have to be even and so do the hydraulic lines. Be sure to refill once you fill the lines during final test procedures as the lines take 3/4 of a liter of fluid. GL 👍
It is the newer version. My manual was in between the old and new one so it didn’t have correct info in it. Also the air cylinders according to Bendpak are only used for set up and they said they will be deleting them. Not sure if that ever happened
@@BROCKgoFASTYour’s is the 5kTL. So is mine. Mine is the newer version as the manual and tank are newer than what you have. 😊 I don’t know anything about air cylinders being removed but it makes sense they aren’t needed. I was not understanding why they were there in the first place.
Mine also has the self bleeding air valve which yours doesn’t. You are supposed to open your valve every time you take it out to use to remove air. That’s listed in the new manual too. 👍
Had my QJ laying in the garage for a week before I put it together started it up yesterday everything worked perfect...I guess they revised the manual, in mine it says let the threadsealer heal/set for atleast 24 hours, I waited two days before starting, another thing it says is to have the labels to the front. I guess on a rear engine car you should put the labels towards the rear...🤔 Great video, I truly felt your pain !
Wow, maybe cheaped out on parts on this now? My hydraulic pump is metal . I purchased this for my '96 Cobra which I work on almost every weekend during driving season a few of years ago. I watched the company's vids, YT vids, went on forums, downloaded the current manual before I put it together and read it line by line while putting it together, did not want to guess at putting this together, this is a serious piece of kit to use for your car and made sure I took my time at putting it together (used teflon tape, 5 wraps). Pump at the rear. I have had absolutely zero issues with it using it approx. 35-40 times including friends cars. It's like any piece of equipment, check before using and do a seasonal maintenance check (check fittings tightness, pump level, air pressure in cylinders) No need to rush putting it together. Do your homework if your going to invest in one. Thoroughly happy with mine from day one, maybe i got lucky?...LOL
I don't think you got lucky. Like you I read all directions/instructions available prior to assembly. I have had ZERO problems with the 7000TL. Only thing I did outside of the instructions was to add some roller ball transfer bearings to make it easier to move in the garage.
Mine worked perfect the first time. You did not read the instruction book in detail. It does say to let the thread sealant to cure for 24 hours and it also tells you to put the end of the jacks with the labels on them towards the front of the car. 😆 I was watching you try to pick it up when it was tilting saying "You have them turned around the wrong way" They came out with the thread sealant because people were getting overzealous with Teflon tape and getting it in the lines whereby restricting the flow of the hydraulic fluid. I also got mine from Home Depot on sale for $1,295 and $0 in shipping because store pickup. 👍 It just fit into my VW Sportwagen S with the passenger seat moved all the way up. I use it mainly to work on my 04 GTO.
Unfortunately I did read the manual. Mine was in between a revision and it didn’t have much on the sealant and more on the tape. I did a lot of things to help viewers know what not to do 😁
I recently bought the 5000 thru Costco online and was smooth sailing until the bleeding steps. after the first UP, both sides rose up evenly. then a DOWN button, nothing moved. Both sides frozen about 8 inches high. Draining down the air cylinders and opened the bleeders a few times. Filled the 45psi air again. Both sides still frozen wouldn't go down. Worked on it a while and emailed Kwikjack cust service (it was a Saturday). Still no reply from customer service on Tuesday so I decided to return it. Big disapointment, I'm about 90 minutes from the store. I'll keep shopping for another solution. Manufacturing date on the label is 9/22.
I found that-when doing the bleeding process with no weight on the jacks- I needed to HOLD the DOWN button continuously, which allows pressure and fluid to return to the source. One side came down much quicker than the other, but standing on the slow side collapsed it OK (still holding the DOWN button). I did that several times and then realized that that [slow side] air-spring cylinder wasn't "holding air". I then- FINALLY figured that the very act of checking the air cylinder's pressure was releasing the pressure I'd just put into it!!! It's a very tiny cylinder so the "normal" actions,( as when pumping up a car tire we normally don't even bother about that loss)cause a great change in the air cylinders pressure; like 15-20 psi loss!!!! I'm sure, when I put my Subaru on it, it will work fine. P.S. The latest blessed version of the manual is ALWAYS on-line, regardless of what is in the box.
The Quickjack Logo on the lifts need to be facing forwards towards the front of the car. But thanks for showing how high they will lift. I'll be ordering soon.
Hey Brock, I want to let you know that you're not alone. I have been using the QJ since 2015 and LOVE the product because I had one of the ORIGINAL ones that was built solid! I recently sold and upgraded to the TL and frankly, it's been a disaster. Having used my old one AT LEAST 400 times, I knew something was wrong with the newer TL the very first time I used it. QJ has been tough to reach and did finally offer me a few trouble shooting steps. We'll see if their advice to fix the issue I have work. However, seeing your issues and knowing how well the older versions worked, makes me really question my decision to upgrade to the TL.
Thanks for letting me know. It was really frustrating to get something I’ve wanted for so long and then it be such a pain to get working. I would think with the price of these things now they should be flawless right out of the box
@@SHODUUP if your on a budget, the SLX will work out fine, however, they are older so QuickJack may not have them. If your budget permits, get the TL instead. Believe me, the extra 3" of lift makes a HUGE difference once you're underneath.
Came here wondering why he had them backwards. As a Camaro owner myself I am super paranoid about placement of the blocks and bolted on lift pads which includes proper orientation.
@@Lmfrank36 I think many vehicles would be better off with the 5000TLX of 7000TLX because it’s six inches longer. Unfortunately these extended length models do not come on sale at Costco and the frame extensions creates clearance issues. Everyone who gets a Quick Jack is in a rush to raise the vehicle but figuring out exactly where to place the blocks is why QJ references so many ASME lift safety documents in the manual. In my opinion a rubber block on top of another rubber block is not wise. Given the inset tray design you really need to use 3” of wood to rise above the frame and then use a single rubber block or pinch weld puck. If you have the Quick Jack backwards or have not used the factory jack points any balance issues will cause the rubber blocks yo bend.
Well. I'm not shocked. It was backward the whole time. It's just tipping because all the engine weight was hanging unsupported. This is why the labelled end is always shown in front. Sorry you struggled to look at the packaging :)
I actually labeled mine with a label maker the first time. Inside/outside, front/Rear. Also note the color of the cylinders. Purple and green. Make note of which color goes on which side and locks are always out. If colored stripes don't jump out at you, do the label maker thing.
I don't think your quickjack has problems after you fixed the leaking issue. I think the problem is how and where they're positioned underneath your car. As far as I can tell from the video, they're positioned too far away from the front. And also the quickjack doesn't always provide even lifting force along its frame. This can be proven by the fact that when you switched direction the issue is gone immediately. So I think the ultimate conclusion is: either position them in the old way (as in the failed attemps) but as close as possible to the front, or in the opposite way as shown in your last attempt. But there's nothing more exicting than the fact that you and your car are unharmed and the issue is gone. Really happy to see that.
I have the 5000TL. The front of the manual reads “Manual revision - Released May 2022.” Page 21 states to allow a minimum of 24hrs curing time of liquid thread sealant. I used Blue Monster thread tape from Home Depot and I didn’t have any leaks and quickjack works flawlessly.
Thanks for this video! Seems like this is a real pita so I'll be sticking with my good old jackstands for a while longer. Too bad too, because I was seriously considering buying a set of these quickjacks.
I just got mine from Costco and it like $300 off. It worth it, save you a lot of time when you need to raise or lower to working on top and bottom at the same time
The Quickjacks are great if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it.
It was definitely difficult to get someone on the phone when I had issues, but luckily I know how to get people on the phone and got someone incredibly helpful. But I’m definitely with you. Why put something on a build if it’s useless.
So I thought about that for a long time but the problem is while it would fit the Camaro better if I ever got a smaller car it would be too long. I’ve thought about building a Civic full track car and it wouldn’t be able to work for that
One mistake was for lift up that your engine is in the front of the car so heavier part was on the wrong side. You can see it tips to the front because your back of the car has the lighter weight. It is described I mean that you have to take care to position the quickjack under your car to prevent an tip over.
@@BROCKgoFAST yes of course. Learning by doing but keep safe the whole time. I watched on RUclips some fails with the quickjack and the good handling to see what could happen. I am interessting to buy one in Germany but they have at the moment only the 5000 slx but not the new one tlx to sell. It would be great to get a bit higher.
@@BROCKgoFAST that's great. Often you asked your self or talking with some guys what you want and how often you use it. You want to be flexible and mobile, you have not much place to the sides, to the ceiling and if you don't need it you can put on the wall so the floor is free. For sure you have to take a compromise but I like the system of quickjack
@BROCKgoFAST can you tell me how is the dimension of the pan of the quickjack TL where the rubber blocks are inside with max. length and wide? I want to look for different ones in Germany. The TL version is may be available at the end of April here for Germany.
You had them set up the way I have to use them. Porsche 993tt all my weight is in the back. It's a hassle as the don't fit under my car....pain in the ass.
Yep - new toys and things not working. I feel you. I have an older model and it works with all my vehicles. Support has gotten very non-supportive possibly due to things being slow over the past few years. One thing to note.. if you store the vehicle up and disconnect the hoses from the pump always use the down button on the control before trying to reconnect the hoses - otherwise you'll damage the o-rings.. (ask me how I know) .. great content bro.
Haha thank you so much! Yeah it can definitely be a pain. I disconnect after each use but the crazy thing is, I’ve had it for over a year and only used twice 🤦🏼♂️
I’m going through the same problems right now. The problem is the garbage used and “tested” motor that comes with them. I noticed oil all over the box as well and when I opened the reservoir plug I noticed metal shavings inside and it had about 12oz of hydraulic fluid. I called and they confirmed it was a used motor and the oil was from testing. I sent them pictures of the metal shavings and they told me they could do anything unless it failed. So its YOUR responsibility to take it apart and clean it before you use it. I’ve used Ben pack products for years and can’t believe the fake side hustle they run under the quickjack name. I would trust a Chinese company more now.
Finally!!! A true video, yes Quickjack has the worst customer service I ever experienced. Just keep getting transferred to different people when you do get a hold of someone and nobody seems to want to deal with troubleshooting. No one should go through this with a new product and if you try to return they will add outrageous restocking fees and shipping. Let’s face it, if you buy it it is yours with all the problems that come along with it. Buyer beware!
I’m sorry about that. I had the same issue until I started hitting buttons and would tell every person I spoke to what was going wrong and finally got transferred to the right person
Hey Bro, Watching you do that was really frustrating. I would like to buy the QuickJack for my Ford Mustang as well. Now half a year has passed since the video. Are you happy with it now?
That was kind of the point. Want people to see what I did so they don’t make the same mistakes. I’ve only had it about 9 months and to be honest I’ve only used it once. When I use it, I’m glad I have it though. I haven’t had any track days or maintenance to do on the ZL1 1LE so I haven’t used it. Once I start another project car it will definitely get used
Quick jack while great when it works, has also been pita since day 1 for me as well. The shock doesn't hold air. I had to replace the valves. My quick connect also kept leaking and i had to buy aftermarket connects to minimize it. The rubber blocks are already tearing and its only been used less than 50 time.
any issues with the angled part of the hose at the elbows near the cylinders that you showed early on? I guess it did not leak from there. I'm waiting the 24+ hrs and then will try and bleed the system
I really appreciate your video. I’m considering buying It for my C7 Corvette 2017. Definitely we can learn from others mistake. Can you give me a feedback since you have them working? Thank you.
Thanks I appreciate it! It works great now that I have everything worked out. Simple to use and lifts with ease. I do recommend still using floor jacks just in case
I just got my 5000TL yesterday and note my hydraulic cylinders have a purple band around them, while most videos I see have a green band. Any idea what the color bands signify?
Watched your video. Kudos for your persistence. QJ is sold as an industrial product, meaning the buyer must be prepared to deal with the quirks of its assembly. Their manual is good but lacks information they had in the past, such as the orientation of the rising hydraulic cylinder which should be pointing to the engine side of the vehicle. I also checked your later video on diff fluid change and noticed you did not lift the QJ to its highest locking position - when working under the car the highest locking position is the safest position with the safest distribution of forces on the QJ. If i were you I would call QJ and order replacement parts to replace the crooked elbow joint before it fails. Order those 2 parts on that side.
I asked the support from Netherland with the lifting and thy support wrote email back to be safe put a jack stand under the quickjack if for any reason the hydraulic cylinder fails. So that you have a second mechanical stop which holds the system in position.
So one of the kinked hoses finally said enough and I messaged Tina (who is the best help) and she is sending new ones out right away. I always put jack stand under the car after it’s in the air as a fail safe
@@BROCKgoFAST that's not so good to hear with the hose. For this price in this short time it should be better quality. It is an issue with the hose or the connector? It is good to following and sharing the experience
I think they sent you a returned lemon and you were their hope that you would be the person to FiX THIER PROBLEM. This is becoming a Standard practice by many sellers.
I was supposed to order some BendPak lift for my future garage..... I am happy I didn't! Order is incomplete, no answer from customer service and they sent me the wrong TLX ( got TL ) The customer service with quickjack is none! ( no phone call answer or email )
I was so excited to find this product. But these things look way too sketchy. No thanks. Hopefully they well perfect this idea though cause it’s awesome
Once you figure it out it’s so nice to have. It makes things way easier especially on newer cars where there is no where to put jacks. I do put jack stand under it just in case though just to be safe
I put mine together correctly and haven't had a single issue. I'm lifting a scirocco, a CRV, e30 m3, 01 S4. and a cayman S. NOT A CREAK OR WHINE, just the sweet hum of the hydraulic pump. I did use pipe tape and I torqued everything to spec . I may have just got lucky but it's OK so far. I apologize for implying you did not put yours together correctly I'm sure you did. it's more an issue of odds, if the chance is anything more than zero it will happen given enough time. Maybe yours was built on a Monday morning or the parts you got were bad, there's bound to be a few out there. The only issue I had was when I took off the shipping plug from one of the pistons some black paint stuck to the washer and more flakes fell off but none went in the opening.
I put my 7000QJ by watching the youtube video with the green mustang 6 times and have no problems, on the first 3 up and down, I sat on it on the down cycles. I bleed it 4 times, keep it up on the blocks overnight then bleed once more the next day, no air left in hoses. I waited two days using their thread sealer . I recheck and refill the atf fluid , also loosen vent screw. It's a good USA product . Use jack stands for extra safety. I would not buy any Chinese made stuff . Then i found your video. Thanks for making the video!
When lifting they needed to be flipped but all the issues I had before didn’t have to deal with orientation. There are things that are not listed in the manual that when I called they said oh yeah we’re trying to put that in there
@@BROCKgoFAST was so bummed at first because my BMW just shit the bed and I really was looking forward to getting easier access to the areas I needed to work on and then it wouldn't lift. Saw your video, rotated the jacks and it really went up easy 🤣
Man. I just got My 7000tl but my concern is that 1 cylinder has a green hand and the other 1 purple, the label on both says 7000.but I haven seen any other video w 2 different colors.
Great review!! Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with yours. I didn't except I lost my mechanic helper (son #2) and I can not move the individual frames by myself they don't slide easily and I am not strong enough to lift one up. They worked good for my Subaru Crosstrek BUT very scary dangerous for our Town and Country minivan it felt very unstable like the van was going to fall off. Only used it twice. Nice design but you need to be nimble and very strong to lift them and slide them around on the floor. NOT made for old short crippled guys, (MY Opinion).
@@BROCKgoFAST seems that's best rather than disconnecting and moving them every time. The regular floor jack would tend to be more inviting for quick jobs if that has to be done every time.
@@BROCKgoFAST sorry didn’t see people had already mentioned it. I just used mine for the first time yesterday on my New Beetle and I was using it right but felt as though the car would tip forward lol
It says a lot of the stuff in the book. Mine was one of the first and the manual was in between revisions. This video was to help others not make mistakes and see the things I went through. It’s helped a ton of people not make mistakes
Sorry to be a jerk, but page 21 of the instruction manual and time 2:28 of the quick set up video covers the liquid sealant cure time. Also, on the loctite bottle: "For maximum pressure resistance and solvent resistance allow the product to cure a minimum of 24 hours".
You are correct! Flip flops dont bother me too much but im always extremely careful. The hoses were replaced by QJ. The orientation of the QJ was wrong. Once flipped it worked perfectly
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Update on the quickjack ruclips.net/video/GqYfcB4WcNg/видео.html
I have had my quickjack for several years and I have some much helpful safety advice to share that quickjack should of disclosed with the operating instructions for safe use. First off, the jack position needs to be several inches more to the front of the vehicle than the rear because all vehicles are heavier in front, this will give a safer balanced load bearing on the jacks. Second, the thinner blocks in front and the thicker blocks in rear of vehicle will help offset uneven lift as vehicle leaves the floor because almost all vehicles are slightly higher in rear than front. Third, put the vehicle in neutral with emergency brake off, its important for the tires to be able to freewheel. This jack lifts horizontally/vertical or back and forth as it lifts and descends. This will help with tire squeal and possible unsafe jack preload from tires fighting the jack position, also makes for a smoother and safer lift off and landing.
Thanks for all the great tips!
This is tremendous advice. I have a corvette so the trans is in the rear so the weight dist shouldn’t be a massive issue.
The thicker blocks in the back makes perfect sense! This should be in the manual!
@@SHODUUP agreed!
Good advice!
@@SHODUUP I think for this situation depends which car you have and normally you have to be sure by your self which type of rubber blocks you have to use. The same nearly with a 2 post lift where you have your 4 arms and have to look before for each one that you have enough space to your lifting points without damaging the body of the car.
With the tipping over you have to know where is the center of gravity of your car that's all. If you do not know where, you can lift it up a little bit like in the video to see where your car is going then readjust.
For future visitors of this video on the fence about getting Quickjacks (or probably similar products as well) just know that all the issues shown in this video can be prevented by a solid 30 minute sit down with the manual before commencing the assembly. This includes reading the FAQ, troubleshooting sections, and those little *WARNING* and *NOTICE* subtexts that are scattered all thru the assembly instructions. Glad you and your car are safe.
Part of why I did the video. A lot of people have trouble and go through the same tribulations. Unfortunately most people don’t read the manual from word one to word end and watch the videos so I took on the chin so others who watch don’t have to
@@BROCKgoFAST Your sacrifice shall never be forgotten sir. Multiple times in this video I felt so bad for you xD
@@chrisstehm5328 haha thanks. What really stunk is that I got an outdated manual that didn’t have some of the newer updates in it 🤦🏼♂️
Right? I only skimmed the manual and saw both the section where it says to wait 24hrs for the thread sealer to set. As soon as his car started to lift unevenly I thought he had them backwards. RTFM!
Thank you for making this video. I just changed my mind. I do not have the patience to do what you did on a new piece of equipment.
@@rickhughett6713 hahaha I feel ya. I honestly don’t use it as much as I thought I would
I just received my 7000TLX 3 weeks ago. Had some of the same problems you had but I watched so many setup videos and knew to let the sealant dry for 24 hours. I waited 72 hours and no leaks. One of my short cables was also slightly kinked at the connector too. The trick is to call the Bend Pack number, not the Quick Jack. No one ever answers it. I think they have a problem with their phone system and they don't even know it. I sent them some pictures and they replaced the defective hoses, connectors and right frame in about a week. My Quick Jack is working perfectly now and I'm loving it. I don't know why they just don't install the quick connectors on the end of the hoses at the factory. It would save a lot of frustration for the customer and stop customers for giving them bad feedback.
I totally agree! There phone system is terrible. I actually ended up calling the phone number and when it was dial by name I put in Chris and said yes to the first one that popped up and he was an IT specialist so he handed me off to the right person and they’ve been helping me fix the little issues since then which is great
It's I would say more and more every where if you have a problem, you have a problem. Try to call the service you stuck the most time with the automatic voice, waiting, waiting... push button one for this, button 2 for those but the end you get nobody on the phone who helps you :-/.
@Ernie A i tried on my oldtimer to seal the treat with loctite glue on a oil pressure sensor. Like you waiting more as 24h but system leaks and there is not so high pressure like the quickjack. I tried the teflon tape it fails but the end I am using an stupid o-ring and it works. But for these connectors I would seal it with the teflon tape, too. There is to know you can only tighten the parts but not loosen again then you got a leak because the teflon loose the sealent.
Just took delivery of my 5000TL and was reviewing assembly videos when I came across yours. These newer generation Quickjacks seem higher maintenance but I agree there are a few things Quickjack could have done to make it easier on the consumer in terms of accurate documentation. Your tips / lessons learned helped me a bunch especially with the essentially unidirectional nature of the Quickjacks depending upon front engine vs. rear engine weight bias to prevent tipovers. The thread sealant curing time of 24 hours is another key point along with the air bleeding needed. Thank you!
Thank you so much. This is exactly what I was trying to do. Do all the things we all would do first so you don’t do them too haha
For Reference:
1) QuickJack video from 2021 about using liquid sealant (and how to do it properly): ruclips.net/video/q8798Dca0AU/видео.html
2) QuickJack video from 2017 saying to never raise the QJ to full height without weight on it: ruclips.net/video/IkJWk48NPx0/видео.html
3) Customer video that explains that one needs to pay attention to the orientation of the QJ with respect to the weight of the vehicle: ruclips.net/video/JqkEnIucPEA/видео.html
These are good videos to watch for new QJ owners. And QuickJack has a nice library of videos on RUclips that are all worth watching.
Agree there are some videos out there but as a new consumer we shouldn't have to search for videos online when we set up a product. Luckily they are out there to help inform and guide before setting up. I watched a ton before i set mine up but still had a ton of issue. The tech support even said not all manuals are correct on the sealent and they are trying to fix that.
Thank for the video my friend
@@2727579 no problem. Hope it helps
the reason this vid is great is that you dane to show the problems others will not. True with most DIY vids - through the magic of editing they skip the tough parts any project...and that's exactly the part you want to see resolved. I'm waiting on my QuickJack to arrive, and I'm really glad I came across this vid. I was kinda screaming at the vid for you to flip the orientation. I've noticed that with on other vids with front engine rear drive cars. Much appreciated!
Thank you very much and glad it helped. In my opinion DIY should always show the good, the bad, and the ugly. We are not all perfect and it takes a little to get things right.
I just got mine 5000TL two days ago, in fact just posted my video today. I didn’t go into some of the detail you did but it seems like you may have skimmed through the instruction manual. It covers the 24hr setting time for the thread sealer and also covers proper orientation of the jacks, more than a few times. I mean this with all due respect and I’m not trolling at all but I just want your viewers to know that this product is actually very nice. I’m thoroughly impressed by mine. I’m glad you finally got it working! Also, I love that car!
Thanks! No skimming of the manual. Some of the manuals don’t have it listed. When I spoke to the tech she said they are trying to fix that issue as they are getting quite a few calls.
The orientation part was definitely on me but wasn’t really the main part of the issue.
Thanks I love the car too haha
@@BROCKgoFAST if that’s the case then yeah that’s some bullshit.
@@midwestbmw1292 hahahaha hence my frustration
When you position your jack under the car you should place it slightly more forward (for front engine cars) to compensate for the weight of the engine. Also, what I did once I found the best position for my car was paint small dots on the frame so that I will jack in the same place next time.
Good tip! With the Camaro I have jack block on it so it doesn’t bend the pinch welds. They are pretty cool
Oh, thank God someone said that
Your video saved me a ton of time. I started off by using teflon tape and everything worked out much better. They did update the manual to say wait 24 ours for the liquid sealer by the way.
Awesome glad this helped.
I set mine up over the weekend and went smoothly. I opted for heavy duty thread tape (Gray Oatey) vs the sealant and I have no leaks at any location even after several lifts but will keep an eye on it over time. The paper manual that came with the unit did state to wait 24 hours to allow proper curing of the thread sealant. I also had the uneven lifting and oddities after full bleeding; however, I noticed the same problem as you, I needed to change orientation for lifting properly. Left lift = Left side of car; Right lift = Right side of car (front engine) having the cylinders pointing towards the engine, and once I did that no issues seen. Knew there was a reason they labeled them as such on the box lol, I was just too eager to use them and figured I would sort it out later. Glad you sorted it out, albeit at great dismay.
Haha thanks. There is always the learning curve. I’m glad I ended up using thread tape in the the end. They used to only do that route and I wonder if the gel is a cheaper alternative.
@@BROCKgoFAST A video from QJ states the reason they did is because of the possibility people were using thread tape wrong and were getting some in the openings causing tape to get sucked into the system and causing problems. I never even opened the bottle as I have used the Oatey product for other uses like this and know to only put it on the threads and never on the opening lol. I did get the strange alignment on the short hoses off the elbow fittings but not to the extreme you saw on your right lift. It exaggerates the tighter the nut on the elbow fitting. When snugged, I don't see the misalignment nor leaking. It suggests 23-25 ft/lb torque on those, but I don't have the proper torque wrench fitting for those, so I just snugged it up and watched for leaks.
@@ToddMcMullen same here. Didn’t go too tight and the weird alignment scares me a little but it doesn’t leak and worked properly so I should be good. Maybe I’ll send Tina a picture of it
I've had mine for 2 years, assembled easily, quickly, and I use it regularly, don't know how I lived without it. Just follow the book/instructions
Oh I did lol
lol i knew you had backwards.. was waiting what part of the video you would notice it. good stuff man
Haha thanks. It was definitely one of those aha moment lol
@@BROCKgoFAST 🤟😂 good stuff bro!
This would be ok for someone not in a hurry, they are way too finicky and slow for tire changers and brake mechanics like me. I went to airbag jacks for speed and less weight. This would be fine for longer repairs and getting underneath which Imdont do a lot of. Great video
Thanks! That’s exactly right. I only use it honestly when I need to get under the car for long installs. It’s too much of a pain to set up for quick stuff
I just set up up my 5000TL yesterday and only had a couple of minor issues which did not require any calls to BendPak. Had to chase the 1/4” npt female threads on two of the female couplers, used Teflon tape (being extra careful not to apply any tape to the first two threads of the male threaded fitting), no more leaks.
Very pleased overall and the QuickJacks are an absolute joy to use, especially with the increased lift of the new 5000TL series.
Teflon tape was definitely the way to go
Nothing wrong with the plastic hydraulic tank, all it does is hold the hydraulic fluid it is not under any pressure. The only thing you need to make sure of is the vent is open or you will suck in the tank as you raise the jacks and that could lead to the tank cracking. Most of the issues you show in this video were self inflected and not the fault of Quick Jack.
You are correct. Only thing is I’m not the o lay one. The things that quickjack was at fault is having customers not do nylon and a couple line connections were bad. They made it right though so that’s huge
I got my SLX-5000 in November. Had similar problems. One side would take 2-3 minutes to lower while the other side took 10-12 seconds. Had similar problems getting someone to actually help me. Finally got out thru to Tina and she got me squared away. In a matter of 2-3 days I had a new pumping unit and was up and running!! Great product when it’s working, but then need to get some folks better trained in the customer support department. Except Tina, she needs a promotion.
I agree! Great product when it’s up and running but really shouldn’t be that hard to set up. Tina was the best and the only reason I got it working correctly!
Glad I could help!!
@@tinacarroll2577 you were the best!!
@@tinacarroll2577 100%!! The best!! Should be training the folks who do the technical assistance. Thanks a million!
A defective Pumping Unit is outrageous and pumps should be tested before being sent out.
I really appreciate this video, and you taking the time to document this process and ordeal.
I've been considering getting one, in the hopes that it would make routine maintenance of the family's fleet(5 cars) simpler. After watching this video(and others) and reading through all the comments, I have decided it wasn't worth it for my needs. I think buying 3 more hydraulic floor jacks would better suit my needs.
No problem at all. If you are going to work on a project car and will be using it a lot, it’s totally worth it. If using it for maintenance for the fleet it can definitely be more time consuming than just using floor jacks. I’ve actually thought about selling mine a couple times as I’ve only used it 2 times in a year
I used Teflon tape, no issues. I threw that liquid sealant out as soon as I opened the box
That’s what I’m going to do when I put the new lines on
I have the 7000TL and really had no issues at all with it except one quick connect fitting on one long hose does have a minor fluid drip.
Not worth the bother of resealing the joint. One more thing.......I always place my jacks with the hosers facing the rear. Never tried them facing the front.
And QuickJack always recommends the use of additional safety stands (in their owners manual). I know many people don't use them but I work fire/rescue and I can tell you first hand that I always use safety stands and I'd never get under a vehicle without them. Enjoy your QuickJack system.
Yeah it was a weight thing for me. I totally do put jacks under the car with the quickjack. Always better to be safe than sorry
Hi bud, glad you were able to get your rig going! I went with teflon tape so I wouldn't have to deal with waiting for the sealant to cure. Also, looks like you initially had the frames backwards; if you look at the boxes, it actually labels them "L" and "R." Two rules of thumb to check for before lifting: the locking bars are supposed to be on the "outside" (so you can set the cams to descend without reaching underneath), and the "Quickjack" label is supposed to be readable from the front. For me, to fool-proof my setup, I labeled each frame "Left" and "Right" with a P-Touch labeler. You'd think Bendpak/Quickjack would do that themselves, maybe even etching "L" and "R" into the frames from the get-go hahaha.
Thanks!
I have a 2nd generation Firebird that I use Quickjack with, and to be honest I had this same problem. Only one place I could put the contact points due to unibody. With my rubber blocks at the extreme ends of the unit, in order to reach the two subframe rails.
I ended up reversing the jacks (exchanging left and right, and orienting both 180 degrees from where you have yours (so the car will lift up and forward instead of up and backward). In other words the two hoses coming from the jacks will be under the back of your car instead of the front. I find that gives me less things to maneuver around when working under the car.
The most important thing is turning your jacks around moves the base of the jacks closer to your car's center of gravity.
EDIT: I see you have reversed the jacks and were successful!! Happy to see another Quickjack smile.
It can be daunting to lift cars these days
Quickjack really needs to add an additional version to the lineup that has the hoses assembled and filled/bled, as well as the lift cylinders. All that would need done is add the "included" ATF into the reservoir and bleed the pump.
Something similar to the mini split AC systems that are sold with the lines pre-filled with refrigerant .. for the DIYer.
I've had my QuickJack for several years and only recently noticed a small drip from one of the connectors. A quick tightening and it's back in business.
When it comes to hydraulics where the fluid is supporting a vehicle, you don't want ANY problems with hoses/connectors. ATF under very high pressure can find a way out if the operator is not careful.
Thank you for the info
I've had a 5000SLX for about 4 years and have only had one problem in that time when it failed to lift from being fully up with a car on it due to low ATF in the reservoir. when using these you need to be aware of where the weight is in your car - if it's at the front, as in your car, the jack needs to be positioned so it is pushing up with the base frame extended underneath the heaviest point as much as possible. where you had it positioned at the start the base of the quick jack is halfway up your door and extending back towards the rear wheel away from where all your weight is. I've written on mine with white marker pen with "Outside" and an arrow pointing to "Front".
Once you have your vehicle up on the stands and locked in place ALWAYS use jack stands (I use four - two on each side) underneath the quick jack as an extra safety precaution. don't rely on the lock bars. I have never heard of them failing but you don't want to be the first to experience it because of equipment failure or they weren't locked in place properly due to user error. at best you're going to wreck your car, worst case you're going to injure or kill yourself. glad you got it sorted.
I always make sure I put jack stands under the car just in case. I have seen them slip before
Newer viewers - just read the manual. He didn’t have the newer version. I bought the same 5000TL in October 2023. The hydraulic fluid tank is metal and comes with thread sealer. If you use the sealer, let it set for 24 hours and be liberal with the application and don’t seal first 2 threads. I had no leaks and zero issues when assembling mine. Also check the shipped PSI of the air cylinders. Mine were at 50 and 60 psi, so I just bled them for a second to bring the both to 45psi. They have to be even and so do the hydraulic lines. Be sure to refill once you fill the lines during final test procedures as the lines take 3/4 of a liter of fluid. GL 👍
It is the newer version. My manual was in between the old and new one so it didn’t have correct info in it. Also the air cylinders according to Bendpak are only used for set up and they said they will be deleting them. Not sure if that ever happened
@@BROCKgoFASTYour’s is the 5kTL. So is mine. Mine is the newer version as the manual and tank are newer than what you have. 😊 I don’t know anything about air cylinders being removed but it makes sense they aren’t needed. I was not understanding why they were there in the first place.
Mine also has the self bleeding air valve which yours doesn’t. You are supposed to open your valve every time you take it out to use to remove air. That’s listed in the new manual too. 👍
I’m just pointing g out the differences between your version and the one currently shipping. 😊
@@dubful1 oh gotcha
Had my QJ laying in the garage for a week before I put it together started it up yesterday everything worked perfect...I guess they revised the manual, in mine it says let the threadsealer heal/set for atleast 24 hours, I waited two days before starting, another thing it says is to have the labels to the front.
I guess on a rear engine car you should put the labels towards the rear...🤔
Great video, I truly felt your pain !
Thanks and hopefully it helped lol
Thanks for the video. Makes me concern about ordering mine. I have a classic sports car and I really don't want it to fail.
It shouldn’t fail if you assemble correctly. I would definitely throw a jack or two under the car when it’s up
My 5000 works perfect. Used the liquid thread seal. Let it cure. Bleed system, no problem
Yep works great when everything is done correctly.
Wow, maybe cheaped out on parts on this now? My hydraulic pump is metal . I purchased this for my '96 Cobra which I work on almost every weekend during driving season a few of years ago. I watched the company's vids, YT vids, went on forums, downloaded the current manual before I put it together and read it line by line while putting it together, did not want to guess at putting this together, this is a serious piece of kit to use for your car and made sure I took my time at putting it together (used teflon tape, 5 wraps). Pump at the rear. I have had absolutely zero issues with it using it approx. 35-40 times including friends cars. It's like any piece of equipment, check before using and do a seasonal maintenance check (check fittings tightness, pump level, air pressure in cylinders) No need to rush putting it together. Do your homework if your going to invest in one. Thoroughly happy with mine from day one, maybe i got lucky?...LOL
Awesome, glad to hear it is working out for you.
I don't think you got lucky. Like you I read all directions/instructions available prior to assembly. I have had ZERO problems with the 7000TL. Only thing I did outside of the instructions was to add some roller ball transfer bearings to make it easier to move in the garage.
I have purchased roller balls as well, haven't put them on yet, car is still up on the jack. A few vids on YT on this as well.@@turbojeff
Mine worked perfect the first time. You did not read the instruction book in detail. It does say to let the thread sealant to cure for 24 hours and it also tells you to put the end of the jacks with the labels on them towards the front of the car. 😆
I was watching you try to pick it up when it was tilting saying "You have them turned around the wrong way"
They came out with the thread sealant because people were getting overzealous with Teflon tape and getting it in the lines whereby restricting the flow of the hydraulic fluid. I also got mine from Home Depot on sale for $1,295 and $0 in shipping because store pickup. 👍
It just fit into my VW Sportwagen S with the passenger seat moved all the way up. I use it mainly to work on my 04 GTO.
Unfortunately I did read the manual. Mine was in between a revision and it didn’t have much on the sealant and more on the tape. I did a lot of things to help viewers know what not to do 😁
🤣 the user error was hard to watch (jack positioning, rear going high first) , but the other promlems I feel bad for this experience
I did a lot of this so others wouldn’t have these issues when putting there’s together 😁
I recently bought the 5000 thru Costco online and was smooth sailing until the bleeding steps. after the first UP, both sides rose up evenly. then a DOWN button, nothing moved. Both sides frozen about 8 inches high. Draining down the air cylinders and opened the bleeders a few times. Filled the 45psi air again. Both sides still frozen wouldn't go down. Worked on it a while and emailed Kwikjack cust service (it was a Saturday). Still no reply from customer service on Tuesday so I decided to return it. Big disapointment, I'm about 90 minutes from the store. I'll keep shopping for another solution. Manufacturing date on the label is 9/22.
I had that issue too and it was air and then where it was bleeding back to. They are a real pain to set up to be honest
I found that-when doing the bleeding process with no weight on the jacks- I needed to HOLD the DOWN button continuously, which allows pressure and fluid to return to the source. One side came down much quicker than the other, but standing on the slow side collapsed it OK (still holding the DOWN button). I did that several times and then realized that that [slow side] air-spring cylinder wasn't "holding air". I then- FINALLY figured that the very act of checking the air cylinder's pressure was releasing the pressure I'd just put into it!!! It's a very tiny cylinder so the "normal" actions,( as when pumping up a car tire we normally don't even bother about that loss)cause a great change in the air cylinders pressure; like 15-20 psi loss!!!! I'm sure, when I put my Subaru on it, it will work fine. P.S. The latest blessed version of the manual is ALWAYS on-line, regardless of what is in the box.
The Quickjack Logo on the lifts need to be facing forwards towards the front of the car. But thanks for showing how high they will lift. I'll be ordering soon.
Lol no problem haha
Thanks for the vid just got through tlx model
No problem and good luck!! 😁
My quick jack 7,000 should be delivered Saturday !!!!
Nice!
Hey Brock, I want to let you know that you're not alone. I have been using the QJ since 2015 and LOVE the product because I had one of the ORIGINAL ones that was built solid! I recently sold and upgraded to the TL and frankly, it's been a disaster. Having used my old one AT LEAST 400 times, I knew something was wrong with the newer TL the very first time I used it. QJ has been tough to reach and did finally offer me a few trouble shooting steps. We'll see if their advice to fix the issue I have work. However, seeing your issues and knowing how well the older versions worked, makes me really question my decision to upgrade to the TL.
Thanks for letting me know. It was really frustrating to get something I’ve wanted for so long and then it be such a pain to get working. I would think with the price of these things now they should be flawless right out of the box
What was the older model ? My local store has a SLX model as well as the new TL? Thanks.
@@SHODUUP The older model is the SLX. The TL is the newer one.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic are the slx models difficult to obtain or something ? Would you really recommend the slx over the tl?
@@SHODUUP if your on a budget, the SLX will work out fine, however, they are older so QuickJack may not have them. If your budget permits, get the TL instead. Believe me, the extra 3" of lift makes a HUGE difference once you're underneath.
16:52 The quick jack is backwards. The end with the warning label plate goes towards the heaviest part of the car: the engine.
You are correct. Figured it out the hard way
Came here wondering why he had them backwards. As a Camaro owner myself I am super paranoid about placement of the blocks and bolted on lift pads which includes proper orientation.
@@Lmfrank36 I think many vehicles would be better off with the 5000TLX of 7000TLX because it’s six inches longer. Unfortunately these extended length models do not come on sale at Costco and the frame extensions creates clearance issues.
Everyone who gets a Quick Jack is in a rush to raise the vehicle but figuring out exactly where to place the blocks is why QJ references so many ASME lift safety documents in the manual.
In my opinion a rubber block on top of another rubber block is not wise. Given the inset tray design you really need to use 3” of wood to rise above the frame and then use a single rubber block or pinch weld puck.
If you have the Quick Jack backwards or have not used the factory jack points any balance issues will cause the rubber blocks yo bend.
Well. I'm not shocked. It was backward the whole time. It's just tipping because all the engine weight was hanging unsupported. This is why the labelled end is always shown in front.
Sorry you struggled to look at the packaging :)
A lot of us did haha. That’s why I’m glad I made the video. That way others don’t make the same mistakes
I actually labeled mine with a label maker the first time. Inside/outside, front/Rear. Also note the color of the cylinders. Purple and green. Make note of which color goes on which side and locks are always out. If colored stripes don't jump out at you, do the label maker thing.
I don't think your quickjack has problems after you fixed the leaking issue. I think the problem is how and where they're positioned underneath your car. As far as I can tell from the video, they're positioned too far away from the front. And also the quickjack doesn't always provide even lifting force along its frame. This can be proven by the fact that when you switched direction the issue is gone immediately. So I think the ultimate conclusion is: either position them in the old way (as in the failed attemps) but as close as possible to the front, or in the opposite way as shown in your last attempt. But there's nothing more exicting than the fact that you and your car are unharmed and the issue is gone. Really happy to see that.
Thanks Wayne I appreciate it!
Glad it worked out but after all of those issues I wouldn’t trust being under it without Jack stands.
I trust it but I put jack stands under it no matter what just to be safe
I have the 5000TL. The front of the manual reads “Manual revision - Released May 2022.” Page 21 states to allow a minimum of 24hrs curing time of liquid thread sealant.
I used Blue Monster thread tape from Home Depot and I didn’t have any leaks and quickjack works flawlessly.
Yeah I didn’t have that manual 🤦🏼♂️
Looked like a lot of operator error to me. I was literally yelling at you through the tv. “Turn your f-ingg jacks around, for crying out loud”
Hahaha I may have done a couple things to show what not to do
Thanks for this video! Seems like this is a real pita so I'll be sticking with my good old jackstands for a while longer. Too bad too, because I was seriously considering buying a set of these quickjacks.
It was a huge PITA but I really love it
I just got mine from Costco and it like $300 off. It worth it, save you a lot of time when you need to raise or lower to working on top and bottom at the same time
@richGT350R The castor wheels idea is brilliant!! Not sure why your post wont show up
I don’t know why it didn’t show as well. You do have the Amazon Part Info? They work really well for me!
@@RichGT350r I’m going to look it up
@@RichGT350r What is the Amazon Part info, looking for the same thing...
@@ToddMcMullen Todd. Search 1 inch castors on Amazon. Spell out inch (4th one down) set of (8) “Amazon’s Choice” $13.98.
My new 5000tl will not lift my car. Just stops completely. No leak
Have you bled the system? Also is there enough fluid?
Thanks. Obvious concerns.
Yep!
LOVE the 1LE camaro....i plan on buying one in '24
One of the best cars I’ve ever owned
@@BROCKgoFAST I have a Gen5 ZL1, and a 69 currently...both Yellow matching
@@squatchbigfoot8577 awesome
Personally I would have assumed most people would know about the orientation. 🤷🏼♂️
You would think……. But I’m a rare breed haha
The Quickjacks are great if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity. I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it.
It was definitely difficult to get someone on the phone when I had issues, but luckily I know how to get people on the phone and got someone incredibly helpful. But I’m definitely with you. Why put something on a build if it’s useless.
Thanks for sharing; Light hearted; it's cause your engine is on the wrong end of the car :)
Had to find out the hard way lol
RIGHT !! My 2 lifts will not come down (with no weight on them) What could that be ??? problem? Any Ideas? This Sh*t is wacky!
There is air in the line I believe
I wonder if you should have gotten the long wheel base ones. The car they use for the ad pics is a mustang similar wheelbase to a Camaro
So I thought about that for a long time but the problem is while it would fit the Camaro better if I ever got a smaller car it would be too long. I’ve thought about building a Civic full track car and it wouldn’t be able to work for that
Page 21 of the manual in BOLD says " Allow 24 hours before pressurizing the system"
Yes in your manual it says that. Mine was a weird in between manual that doesn’t have that info listed
One mistake was for lift up that your engine is in the front of the car so heavier part was on the wrong side. You can see it tips to the front because your back of the car has the lighter weight. It is described I mean that you have to take care to position the quickjack under your car to prevent an tip over.
Agreed. It was all part of the journey. You can see in the video I finally figured that out haha
@@BROCKgoFAST yes of course. Learning by doing but keep safe the whole time. I watched on RUclips some fails with the quickjack and the good handling to see what could happen. I am interessting to buy one in Germany but they have at the moment only the 5000 slx but not the new one tlx to sell. It would be great to get a bit higher.
@@benjaminwiener9942 the new one gets really high. It’s crazy what you can do on the last level
@@BROCKgoFAST that's great. Often you asked your self or talking with some guys what you want and how often you use it. You want to be flexible and mobile, you have not much place to the sides, to the ceiling and if you don't need it you can put on the wall so the floor is free. For sure you have to take a compromise but I like the system of quickjack
@BROCKgoFAST can you tell me how is the dimension of the pan of the quickjack TL where the rubber blocks are inside with max. length and wide? I want to look for different ones in Germany. The TL version is may be available at the end of April here for Germany.
You had them set up the way I have to use them. Porsche 993tt all my weight is in the back. It's a hassle as the don't fit under my car....pain in the ass.
Haha yeah I love them but so far they are a pain in my a$$
Yep - new toys and things not working. I feel you. I have an older model and it works with all my vehicles. Support has gotten very non-supportive possibly due to things being slow over the past few years. One thing to note.. if you store the vehicle up and disconnect the hoses from the pump always use the down button on the control before trying to reconnect the hoses - otherwise you'll damage the o-rings.. (ask me how I know) .. great content bro.
Haha thank you so much! Yeah it can definitely be a pain. I disconnect after each use but the crazy thing is, I’ve had it for over a year and only used twice 🤦🏼♂️
I’m going through the same problems right now. The problem is the garbage used and “tested” motor that comes with them. I noticed oil all over the box as well and when I opened the reservoir plug I noticed metal shavings inside and it had about 12oz of hydraulic fluid. I called and they confirmed it was a used motor and the oil was from testing. I sent them pictures of the metal shavings and they told me they could do anything unless it failed. So its YOUR responsibility to take it apart and clean it before you use it. I’ve used Ben pack products for years and can’t believe the fake side hustle they run under the quickjack name. I would trust a Chinese company more now.
🤯🤯🤯🤯
Use Teflon tape. That liquid thread sealant is useless.
That’s what ended up doing
It’s the weight distribution 90/10? Lol
I saw another video where he said to keep in mind car weight distribution. Glad you solved it.
Yeah it’s a little wonky but I figured it out
@@BROCKgoFAST yeah ill be doing the same
amazing what can happen when you turn the jacks the correct way.
🤷🏼♂️
You also had the jacks backwards from the start
Yes I know. Did some things so others wouldn’t
Hopefully my setup is smooth sailing in comparison :-D lol.
I really thought mine would be too but man what a pain
I think quikjack should spend more time viewing youtube. Its highly educational. There are so many things they could get right if they just tried.
I totally agree!
Finally!!! A true video, yes Quickjack has the worst customer service I ever experienced. Just keep getting transferred to different people when you do get a hold of someone and nobody seems to want to deal with troubleshooting. No one should go through this with a new product and if you try to return they will add outrageous restocking fees and shipping. Let’s face it, if you buy it it is yours with all the problems that come along with it. Buyer beware!
I’m sorry about that. I had the same issue until I started hitting buttons and would tell every person I spoke to what was going wrong and finally got transferred to the right person
Hey Bro, Watching you do that was really frustrating. I would like to buy the QuickJack for my Ford Mustang as well.
Now half a year has passed since the video. Are you happy with it now?
That was kind of the point. Want people to see what I did so they don’t make the same mistakes. I’ve only had it about 9 months and to be honest I’ve only used it once. When I use it, I’m glad I have it though. I haven’t had any track days or maintenance to do on the ZL1 1LE so I haven’t used it. Once I start another project car it will definitely get used
Quick jack while great when it works, has also been pita since day 1 for me as well. The shock doesn't hold air. I had to replace the valves. My quick connect also kept leaking and i had to buy aftermarket connects to minimize it. The rubber blocks are already tearing and its only been used less than 50 time.
Dang! I did learn the air valves are only for the first time use, that’s what QJ told me.
@@BROCKgoFAST even so, it's a stupid thing that should come working for the cost. It's never held air in from the first day
@@robbiexiong3508 I 100% agree
any issues with the angled part of the hose at the elbows near the cylinders that you showed early on? I guess it did not leak from there. I'm waiting the 24+ hrs and then will try and bleed the system
It actually did start to leak the next day. They sent me replacements
I really appreciate your video. I’m considering buying It for my C7 Corvette 2017. Definitely we can learn from others mistake. Can you give me a feedback since you have them working? Thank you.
Thanks I appreciate it! It works great now that I have everything worked out. Simple to use and lifts with ease. I do recommend still using floor jacks just in case
I just got my 5000TL yesterday and note my hydraulic cylinders have a purple band around them, while most videos I see have a green band. Any idea what the color bands signify?
That’s a great question and unfortunately I have no idea
Watched your video. Kudos for your persistence. QJ is sold as an industrial product, meaning the buyer must be prepared to deal with the quirks of its assembly. Their manual is good but lacks information they had in the past, such as the orientation of the rising hydraulic cylinder which should be pointing to the engine side of the vehicle. I also checked your later video on diff fluid change and noticed you did not lift the QJ to its highest locking position - when working under the car the highest locking position is the safest position with the safest distribution of forces on the QJ. If i were you I would call QJ and order replacement parts to replace the crooked elbow joint before it fails. Order those 2 parts on that side.
I asked the support from Netherland with the lifting and thy support wrote email back to be safe put a jack stand under the quickjack if for any reason the hydraulic cylinder fails. So that you have a second mechanical stop which holds the system in position.
So one of the kinked hoses finally said enough and I messaged Tina (who is the best help) and she is sending new ones out right away. I always put jack stand under the car after it’s in the air as a fail safe
I always put jacks under the car for a second safety measure
@@BROCKgoFAST that's not so good to hear with the hose. For this price in this short time it should be better quality. It is an issue with the hose or the connector? It is good to following and sharing the experience
@@benjaminwiener9942 just one of the connectors. They are making it right so that’s all I can ask for
I think they sent you a returned lemon and you were their hope that you would be the person to FiX THIER PROBLEM. This is becoming a Standard practice by many sellers.
I sure hope not
I was supposed to order some BendPak lift for my future garage..... I am happy I didn't!
Order is incomplete, no answer from customer service and they sent me the wrong TLX ( got TL )
The customer service with quickjack is none! ( no phone call answer or email )
Call Tina Support Technician
Office 251-408-9619 EXT 440
She was amazing and helped me a bunch when no one else would answer the phone
@@BROCKgoFAST any chance you have her email? I am out of USA... And will be easier to explain my situation at first.
@@hxllxman it’s just support@quickjack.com
Swap them to opposite sides. Lol
Edit: yeey. You figured it out.
Hahaha yep!
So you just had them backwards huh?
Yeah that’s what got me on that one. Won’t forget that haha
“Quick” Jack
I was so excited to find this product. But these things look way too sketchy. No thanks. Hopefully they well perfect this idea though cause it’s awesome
Once you figure it out it’s so nice to have. It makes things way easier especially on newer cars where there is no where to put jacks. I do put jack stand under it just in case though just to be safe
I’ve had my QJ for several years and works great. Still use jackstands as a back up.
@@MoparGuy1625 100% always good to be safe
Throw out the sealant, use Teflon tape. I just got my 7000TL and bought some tape as I'd read the sealant is junk
The sealant is terrible. I went back and did the Teflon on everything
I put mine together correctly and haven't had a single issue. I'm lifting a scirocco, a CRV, e30 m3, 01 S4. and a cayman S. NOT A CREAK OR WHINE, just the sweet hum of the hydraulic pump.
I did use pipe tape and I torqued everything to spec . I may have just got lucky but it's OK so far.
I apologize for implying you did not put yours together correctly I'm sure you did. it's more an issue of odds, if the chance is anything more than zero it will happen given enough time. Maybe yours was built on a Monday morning or the parts you got were bad, there's bound to be a few out there.
The only issue I had was when I took off the shipping plug from one of the pistons some black paint stuck to the washer and more flakes fell off but none went in the opening.
Nice!
thank you for taking the time to make the video
@@robertmassucci1 thanks for watching. It’s been helping a lot of people so I’m very happy with that
I put my 7000QJ by watching the youtube video with the green mustang 6 times and have no problems, on the first 3 up and down, I sat on it on the down cycles. I bleed it 4 times, keep it up on the blocks overnight then bleed once more the next day, no air left in hoses. I waited two days using their thread sealer . I recheck and refill the atf fluid , also loosen vent screw. It's a good USA product . Use jack stands for extra safety. I would not buy any Chinese made stuff . Then i found your video. Thanks for making the video!
@@jnborder thanks.
Looks like the quick jack was to far too the rear of the car but you can also try using them cross ways!
I turned it around and fixed everything
Very interesting that one would have to resort to using the cross ways.
Is it possible they just needed to be flipped in the first place?
When lifting they needed to be flipped but all the issues I had before didn’t have to deal with orientation. There are things that are not listed in the manual that when I called they said oh yeah we’re trying to put that in there
@@BROCKgoFAST definitely seems way more difficult then it should have been in the first place
@@BROCKgoFAST definitely a good reference video too
@@tylerbaldwin1161 thank you. It definitely was. Nothing in the book talked about orientation either. It was just all around frustrating.
Man no way, I just rotated my jacks and they work.....LOL
Haha it is definitely easier if you are going to work on the car a long time
@@BROCKgoFAST was so bummed at first because my BMW just shit the bed and I really was looking forward to getting easier access to the areas I needed to work on and then it wouldn't lift. Saw your video, rotated the jacks and it really went up easy 🤣
@@WsNew awesome!! Glad I could help
Man. I just got My 7000tl but my concern is that 1 cylinder has a green hand and the other 1 purple, the label on both says 7000.but I haven seen any other video w 2 different colors.
Hmmmk that is very curious
Bad customer support is bad for business...
Agreed
RTFM homie
I’ll be resealing one by one as they go down lol
Did you use both the sealant AND Teflon tape?
I used the sealant and then had to go back and teflon tape them
@@BROCKgoFAST thanks. Sounds like oughta just use Teflon tape to begin with eh?
@@silvernblackattach I agree. They used to use Teflon tape and changed to the sealant for some reason
Great review!! Sorry to hear you had so much trouble with yours. I didn't except I lost my mechanic helper (son #2) and I can not move the individual frames by myself they don't slide easily and I am not strong enough to lift one up. They worked good for my Subaru Crosstrek BUT very scary dangerous for our Town and Country minivan it felt very unstable like the van was going to fall off. Only used it twice. Nice design but you need to be nimble and very strong to lift them and slide them around on the floor. NOT made for old short crippled guys, (MY Opinion).
Thank you and I agree. They are not the most easy thing to move around. They can actually a bit of a pain to use for little stuff
Do you plan to store them pretty much in place or stow them upright on the wall when not in use?
@@sadfur8728 for right now they sit on the floor
@@BROCKgoFAST seems that's best rather than disconnecting and moving them every time. The regular floor jack would tend to be more inviting for quick jobs if that has to be done every time.
@@sadfur8728 exactly. Unless I’m doing something more involved I use my floor jack for quick jobs
From what I understand the quick jacks actually are specified left and right Witcha place them with the hoses facing Rearward
It depends on the weight and engine orientation. The hydraulic pump should be on the opposite side of the weight
You had it backwards.
Yep
@@BROCKgoFAST sorry didn’t see people had already mentioned it. I just used mine for the first time yesterday on my New Beetle and I was using it right but felt as though the car would tip forward lol
@@jkrebuilt it’s all good! Yeah it’s a little nerve racking using it for the first time
Every single "negative" video I have watched on this product was due to user error.
It’s a little bit of both.
Absolutely says that in the book.... 🤦🤦🤦
It says a lot of the stuff in the book. Mine was one of the first and the manual was in between revisions. This video was to help others not make mistakes and see the things I went through. It’s helped a ton of people not make mistakes
@@BROCKgoFAST do you have your book handy? What's the date on it? Bottom left, back side.
@@0tristan560 to be honest I have no clue where it is
@@BROCKgoFAST my book is from Sept from '21. I'd really be surprised if you had an earlier revision based on the date of your video.
@@0tristan560 you might be right. When I called customer support this is what they told me
I was SCREAMING at my screen. FLIP THE FREAKING think around!!!!!!
Hahaha imagine how I felt
@@BROCKgoFAST Oh my god, they are so dumb, the sent me 2 Right side and 0 Left side. And like you said, when you call them, they are CLUELESS!!!
@@kent570253 it took a lot to get someone in the phone but they helped a ton
all that work, a jack would have been quicker
@@auronedgevicks7739 100% agree. I never use it unless I have big jobs to do
The way those frames were stressed in that video is not what they were engineered for. I would not go under a car on those frames.
When done the right way it goes up with ease. I do put jack stands under the car just in case though
What was the fix?? Flipping the jacks to the correct position with the lines to the back??
So I reversed the location and re-did the lines with Teflon tape
I was getting ready to tell you you had them on the wrong side
Hahaha
Sorry to be a jerk, but page 21 of the instruction manual and time 2:28 of the quick set up video covers the liquid sealant cure time.
Also, on the loctite bottle: "For maximum pressure resistance and solvent resistance allow the product to cure a minimum of 24 hours".
No worries you aren’t being a jerk. I had one of the early manuals that didn’t have that info in it. They updated all the manuals since then
So your pain is why I got it right. Thanks!
@@cfitzgduke hahaha that’s exactly what I was hoping for
Flip flops and heavy objects...ouch. Too much angle in those hoses.. car was nose heavy ?
You are correct! Flip flops dont bother me too much but im always extremely careful. The hoses were replaced by QJ. The orientation of the QJ was wrong. Once flipped it worked perfectly
cant wait til you bust your toes carefully
It says it in the manual to leave a 24 hours
You are correct. It did not in mine. Mine was part of a revision from what I was told by customer support