QuickJack Car Lift Review - Is It Worth It?
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- Опубликовано: 10 окт 2024
- I have the BL-5000SLX model, QuickJack has since replaced it with the 5000TL model.
Lifting capacity is 5000 lbs (2268 kg)
Amazon affiliate link - amzn.to/3NaZ754
The car is a 1966 Mustang Fastback with a factory V8 and T5 transmission.
Shot with GoPro Hero 9 with the Media Mod, edited on Davinci Resolve 18.
Credit for the music in the video:
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Epidemic Sound
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#krusebuilt
#kruseview
#Mustang
#1966
#fastback
I've lifted my 66 Mustang from the pinch weld with my Quick Jacks and blocks with a slit for the pinch weld to fit through, give you a bit more room in the middle to work and a wider stance for the Quick Jacks. Figured if the original jack was designed to lift the car from that point, the QJ's could too.
I'll keep that in mind.
Agree, I have been using the pinch welds on my 66 with QJ for awhile now. The mustang sat for weeks in that position too. No damage at all after probably 20 lifts.
Thanks Andy for the reminder you reviewed these. Still battling with Quickjacks or trying to find a used lift system. The QJ's of course easier to get going with and I would be able to use at both my hobby shop and home garage to work on the projects.
Yeah, they definitely have their advantages. :)
LOVE that intro!!
Great review on the lift. Very informative. Thank you for recording and posting.
No problem!
Very cool. This is on my list for the upcoming year. It looks like it makes cleaning and working on the suspension much easier! Great video Andy!
Go for it! :)
I love my Quickjack too, I got it after seeing it on VMF. Got a package deal from costco,with a set of their pinch weld blocks to use the factory lift points. It's a little fidgety getting them lined up but I get a bunch more room down the middle of the car. The wife likes them better than when my fastback was up on jack stands.
Yeah, these things are pretty sturdy. :)
Thanks for posting this review! I was just about to get one of these to work on my '65 convertible. Love you videos!!!
Glad I could help!
I put two 6x6 blocks under each corner of my car and cut and screwed a 2x12 on top of each one. I put jack stands on top of each one. It works pretty well, you just have to make sure your doing it on level ground. It seems pretty safe and hasn’t shifted (I work on gravel and the car has been sitting like that for about 3 months and I’ve beat on stuff countless times with nothing shifting around)
Yeah, there's lots of ways to make it work without a full car lift. :)
Thanks Andy for the video on the quick jack I been looking into buying them for my 66 mustang coupe because I have low ceiling height in my garage Thanks for showing how easy it is to use Tom
No problem 👍
Great review. Very thorough. I appreciate the "regular guy" approach. :)
I appreciate that!
Andy,,,,Im not a hater or smart ass. I am glad you like this jack system. I see it would be safe enough for oil changes done quickly. Brake jobs. Axel change outs. Maybe radiator issues. Tire rotation. Etc etc etc. In other words, working around the car,,,,,NOT underneath the car for extended periods of time. Example: dropping a transmission. any kind of jerking, tugging, hammering on parts while you are underneath the vehicle. I realize it has the safety bars on each side but still it looks dangerous. Im a car enthusiast believe me, but in this scenerio, only one accident or mistake or part malfunction could cost you your life. Just call me over cautious but it just looks under built to be holding up 3000 to 4500 lbs. I enjoyed the video. Great quality. Many great pointts, just a product I would use only for specific applications. Happy mototing. Tim Yarbrough.
Ok.
Helps you see how to change out that electric power steering. Awesome!
Yes, one could use these QuickJacks when swapping to Electric Steering. :)
Always appreciate your insight.
Thanks!
Thanks Andy for the link for the radio delete plate on ebay, Mike.
No problem! :)
Andy when I lift my 65 Mustang with the QJ I use the pinch rail to lift the car, same lifting points as the factory jack
ok
Some good points to consider . Thanks👍
Thanks for watching!
@@AndyKruseChannel bought a used one , yet to try it out
mustang is looking extra clean today.
Smoke and mirrors! :)
I use them to raise my car up and if I need to remove transmission , etc.. I place wheel cribs under tires and remove quik jacks.
Yeah, there's lots of good ways to use these. :)
Andy I saw not often that people lift up the car on the right way depends the center of gravity. I like to buy one next month and its an good solution because its moveable and you are more flexible. You don't loose space in the garage. The most maintenance works you can do it with this system. If you need more free room under the car maybe you can use higher jack stands in combination after lift up with the quickjack and put it on it.
I thought about using taller jack stands like you mentioned, but I'd need to purchase them first. :)
Like I mentioned, most of the work we do on our cars is on the front half or back half, so these QuickJack lifts do provide a great amount of ground clearance where needed. 😀
@@AndyKruseChannel Yes, you are right. Most of the work we can do on our cars. The advantage i like is after the work is done you put the both bars to the side and your groundfloor is free 😃
@@AndyKruseChannel I have an old chevette where i need the access under the car like your Mustang with the gearbox and the powershaft because it is an backwheel powered car. I used liked you jack stands before and the small hydr. lifter for cars. It needs more time to lift the car up to put it on jack stands as you have shown with round about 5 minutes with the QuickJack system.
Kind of a bummer that you can't get in from the side. It's obvious that it will cause problems for some jobs because of that. I noticed in your C4 removal video that you had used jack stands and now I know why. Thanks for that video by the way. It helped me get my C4 out.
Awesome, I glad my video was able to help your project. :)
This problem you have with the other scissors lifter, too. That would be not an big issue because you can use the quickjacks to lift your car sidewards, too. It is discribed in the manual of quickjack.
Nice Video. Thanks!
Thank you too!
Just a heads up, if you have long tubes the inside of the quickjack is like jenga between getting the correct block height and position on the frame rail and not lifting the car via your collectors. YMMV, 7000EXT QuickJacks and Hedmans its a bit more positioning vs kicking them under the jack pads of a BMW. definitely polar opposite situations.
I still have those billet jack pads from my BMW days, I may need them again some time.
If you close you eyes while watching this video... you can pretend John Malkovich is doing the review. ;)
Haha, that'll do.
I wish I could be totally confident in purchasing a Quickjack. I have read too many bad product stories.
Every product is going to have a bad story, and the worst stories rise to the top. All I can offer is my view point from my experience and how good it has been for me. :)
Have you or anyone tried removing the transmission while on the QJs? It's a project I need to do on my 66 but am skeptical I have enough room to get the transmission all the way out.
No, I just don't have enough room for that task. If I were to lift that car at the pinch welds then I might be able to.
I did it to my 66 on my channel. Heres the vid:
ruclips.net/video/mi6K6irEi2U/видео.html
Nice pony.
Thank you 🤗
what about building something out of some angle iron that would span the frame rails that the lift system could use to widen the area in between the lifts.
That might work for car that are not as low as mine. There's not much space between the top of the lifting pad and the frame rail. :)
I have a one car garage, where getting to the passenger side with a normal jack is almost impossible, this would be ideal.
Awesome, sounds like a QuickJack might be in your future. :)
Hey Andy, great videos. I wanted to ask your thoughts on using pinch weld blocks to lift the car. I have a 66 coupe and I need to replace my floors and supports. In your opinion, do you think the quick jack would damage anything? I’ve read the forums where these blocks are recommended, but I like and trust the work you do. Any thoughts would be great.
I'm a little apprehensive to lift at the pinch welds. Some say it's fine, others say the body is not designed to be lifted there.
For your floors and supports, I don't know where to lift the car so that it's safe but also so it doesn't put extra stress on the frame and chassis during your repair. Sorry Boss, I'm not much help on that one. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel The pinch welds are the factory recomended jacking points.
Thanks anyway Andy. Keep up the great work. I look forward to the next video.
@@markklimowicz8507I use the pinch point blocks, and it was up on the lift for a couple weeks at one point with zero issues. No damage to the car.
Hi Andy. Do you need to use a support between the upper control arm and the frame rail to avoid damage to the shocks and strut rods with a lift like this??
The lift points using the QuickJack is much like a traditional two-post lift, it lifts the car between the front and rear tires on the frame rails. Because of this the front of the car is un affected. Basically anything forward of the Firewall is untouched. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for replying :) I'm fairly new to this but I've read a bunch of posts on forums and an article about how raising a 1965-1973 Mustang on a regular two-post lift without a support between the upper control arm and the frame rail will damage the shocks and strut rods. Does using this lift somehow bypass that issue? Looks to me like the front wheels would still be hanging down unsupported which is what causes the issue..?
@@mranthonyrhodes I've never heard of that issue, but that doesn't mean it's not an issue. Some people elect to pick up these cars at the body pinch points and I've heard there can be problems there, but nothing about picking up the car at the frame rails and it damages the shocks.
So I just got my quickjack today, got it set up and it all works, but the blocks towards the rear of the car aren’t touching the car. Do you have that issue? I bought the blocks for the pinch welds.
I put the blocks under the frame rail, just in front of the rear leaf spring mount point. I don't pick the car up at the pinch welds. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I know you don’t, more wondering if you have the issues with the block not making contact.
When the jack is moving upwards, I think the front pad touches before the rear, but as the jack continues to go up, both pads are supporting the car on each side. :)
what about if you made up a couple of bars to go inbetween the two units that gave you the exact spacing that you need for optimal positioning?
that way you could set up a little quicker by locking in the bars and then you'd only have to position one side and the other would be positioned at the same time then after you jack it up you could remove the positioning bars so you could slide your creeper between the two lifts
That might work on cars that are not as low as mine. I don't have much room between the frame rails and the pads on the QuickJack, so it would be difficult to do on my car. :)
All ways use JACK STANDS IN ALL 4 CORNERS,WHEN WHEELS ARE OFF THE VEH.
How does that work when the car is six feet in the air?
@@AndyKruseChannel you are showing your car 18" off the GROUND. AND IF IT WAS ON A TWIN POST LIFT THEY MAKE A 5' STANDS THAT ADJ. ITS BEEN KNOW FOR VEH. FALLING OF LIFTS.
I have the TL and I'd say it's ok, but only if you're lucky and get one without a defective air cylinder. If you do get one of those you're screwed - the company will 100% not stand behind their product. They'll claim the air-assist down isn't "necessary to the function of the lift". Really? So if one side has air assist down and the other doesn't, and they drop unevenly, that's safe? And then when the vehicle drops to the ground and one side of the lift goes straight to the full down position while the other... doesn't. You need to wait... and wait... and wait for it to drop with no weight on it. Quickjack will claim this "is normal operation" and that "it will get better over time". If you invest a massive amount of time trying to get them to stand behind their product they will, eventually, after burning through every once of customer goodwill, send out a new cylinder. Yay! Until you get the replacement and the freakin' air side is literally capped off. Like intentionally made unusable. That's not a fix guys. Then they'll claim that the engineers decided the down-assist wasn't necessary and that they've changed the design on future models. But I didn't buy a future model with less functionality. I bought the current model with exactly the functionality I wanted, was promised, and paid for. Whatever. Too much time wasted on it already - I've written off the entire company as another skanky marketing hack with no integrity.
I still have it in my shop, but the company worked very hard to make me regret my purchase and it low-key pisses me off every time I look at it. And honestly the setup is inconvenient enough that even when I do pull it out - warts and all - it happens very rarely. Only when I have a longer term project where I know the vehicle will be on the lift for a week or two. Definitely not for things like oil or tire changes. It's just way quicker to use a floor jack, or even ramps.
I think I've used the QJ once since I made the video. The integrity of the company aside, and the fact that there really isn't a better option for the money, I still like product and I can see value in it for specific situations (some of which you highlighted). But I'd say the biggest reason I don't use it is the setup time. Most of the stuff I do I only need one end of the car lifted and a floorjack with some jackstands is just faster. :)
Can it lift my F150 with 6 inch lift off the ground? Watch: ruclips.net/video/cJCMx68VpnU/видео.html
Not this model, but they sell other models that can lift more weight (like for a truck). :)